Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Hublot One Million $ Black Caviar

Hublot and the setting workshop Bunter SA have together developed a World Première with a completely invisible setting, using only black diamonds. It’s a world "first", and a technological and artistic achievement.

The dream of combining key Hublot concepts – invisible visibility, “All Black”, watchmaking tradition and state-of the- art technology – has become reality thanks to the creativity, the ingenuity and a touch of the “crazy” which spurred on its designers to create such a masterpiece.

The high level of micro-mechanic sophistication, combined with the dexterity of the human hand, has resulted in the One Million $ Black Caviar Bang. Its setting is very complex. The difficulty resides in the unusual lines of the Big Bang case– round but with sharp angles. The white gold, one-piece construction of the case does not reveal one grain of gold, and the diamonds, cut in mysterious ways, seem to hold together as if by magic. The only visible feature is the black and deep tones of the diamonds, shining in their harmonious alignment.

This unique piece, which houses a Tourbillon, symbolises the fusion between watchmaking and jewellery, between tradition and technology, and between glittering and invisibility. The vibration which emanates from it gives rise to an emotion tinged with fascination.

Creating this exceptional watch demanded over 2000 hours of meticulous work, from design to final adjustment, without forgetting the research and development, programming of the machines, choice of tools, diamond cutting, optical checking of each part, and setting and casing. 544 VVS TW-IF quality baguette diamonds adorn the watch’s case, dial, crown and deployant clasp.

Technical details
Case
18K white gold set with 322 black diamond baguettes (25.11 cts)
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection treatment
Back: 18K white gold with sapphire crystal, interior anti-reflection treatment
Crown: 18K white gold set with 13 black diamond baguettes (1.7 cts)

Dial
18K white gold, set with 179 black diamond baguettes (5.48 cts), circular arc setting at 10:00 indicating the power reserve
Hands: Faceted, rhodium-plated diamond polished skeleton hands

Movement
Mechanical, manufactured, manual winding, flying Tourbillon 60 seconds, special execution HUB Solo T
Diameter: 13 ¼ ’’’ (Ø 30.00 mm)
Thickness: 7.10 mm
No. of components: 148
Number of stones: 24 rubies
Balance: Gyromax regulating inertia-block
Vibrations: 21,600 A/h (3Hz)
Tourbillon cage: Ø 13 mm
Power reserve: 120 hours

Strap
Adjustable smooth natural black rubber with Hublot logo
Clasp :18K white gold with cover set with 30 black diamond baguettes (3.5 cts),
18K white gold deployant

Edition
Unique item

Monday, December 29, 2008

Temption CAMEO

Temption GmbH, the German manufacturer of fine mechanical watches announced the availability of its rectangular watch model, CAMEO. It has a unusual large and rectangular top glass, which is curved on both sides. This top glass (essentially it’s not glass but sapphire, which almost as hard as a diamond), grinded with the very precise radius as the case, is chemically bonded to the case.

The water proofness of other rectangular or square watches is limited, because there is a gasket around each glass. Especially the corners are subject to leakage. That’s why other similar watches are not really rectangular but have round corners and sometimes considerable radiuses are incorporated. Despite that this technology allows only a limited water proofness.

The CAMEO top sapphire is chemically bonded to the case. In order to hide the bondage there is frame like mirror coating on the inside of the sapphire. That’s why Temption was able to design the top sapphire with sharp and true edges and still have satisfying water proofness.

This technology, to have a large curved sapphire, chemical bonding with frame like mirror coating to hide the bonding and appropriate tolerances to allow that takes a lot of effort. The price for that is – as far as we see it – more than the price for the entire watch of many competitors.

CAMEO is different, because the architectural pure and unbeaten design and the attractive case meet this new technology and sum up to an eye catcher of unbeaten value.Some times design AND technology are to work hand in hand to make the result something special – a true piece of jewellery.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Hentschel Hamburg H1 Automatic in 18ct Pink Gold Case

All H1-models impress with their elegant cases and distinct dials. Compared to other watches the bezel is remarkably thin and quite low key in it´s appearance. So the beholder can fully concentrate on the slightly domed dial and the finely contured hands. To achieve this, the company developed an elaborate three part case construction with four seals. This allows for watch cases, which are exceedingly delicate, but robust and water resistant at the same time.

The diameter of the case is 37 millimetres. Because of constructional reasons Hentschel uses only 750 pink or white gold for the watch cases. To admire the hand finished movement, every H1 has a sapphire crystal display back.

Models
  • Ref. H1-R-2892-01-White silvered dial with Arabic numerals and date display.
  • Ref. H1-R-2892-02-Silver-grey platinated dial with Arabic numerals and date display.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Hentschel Hamburg H1Handwound Movement, 18ct White Gold Case

All H1-models impress with their elegant cases and distinct dials. Compared to other watches the bezel is remarkably thin and quite low key in it´s appearance. So the beholder can fully concentrate on the slightly domed dial and the finely contoured hands. To achieve this, we developed an elaborate three part case construction with four seals. This allows for watch cases, which are exceedingly delicate, but robust and water-resistant at the same time.

The diameter of the case is 37 millimetres. Because of constructional reasons Hentschel uses only 750 pink or white gold for watch cases. To admire the hand-finished movement, every H1 has a sapphire crystal display-back.

Models
  • Ref. H1-W-kl-01: White silvered dial with Arabic numerals.
  • Ref. H1-W-kl-02: Silver-grey platinated dial with Arabic numerals.
  • Ref. H1-W-kl-04: Anthracite dial with Arabic numerals.
  • Ref. H1-W-kl-04röm: Anthracite dial with Roman numerals.

Romain Gauthier Collection Prestige

Romain Gauthier is an Independent Swiss watch maker based at La Vallée de Joux.Collection Prestige features an original in-house movement and design. The elegant hand-guilloched solid-gold dial with off-center time indication is fairly traditional; however, the apparent lack of a crown gives an indication that the movement beneath is anything but.

The superbly finished movement features an innovative flat crown on the back, which is easy to wind on the wrist.The case is available in white gold, red gold and platinum and has a diameter of 41mm. Limited edition of 38 & 8 with baguette-cut diamonds set in the bezel.

1.Collection Prestige-Red Gold and Black Dial


2.Collection Prestige-Red Gold Champagne Dial


3.Collection Prestige-White Gold


4.Collection Prestige-Platinum

De Bethune DB 22

DB 22 by De Bethune is the first watch to have a micro light finished Titanium dial.





Technical details
  • Case: Rose gold,white gold or titanium
  • Dimensions: 48mm diameter and 10.9mm thickness
  • Dial: Grey, blue or blackened titanium with microlight effect
  • Hands: Titanium and flame blued steel,hand polished
  • Movement: DB 2024- automatic
  • Functions: Hours,minutes and power reserve indicator at 12'0 clock
  • Power Reserve: 6 days
  • Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Voutilainen Masterpiece 7 Decimal Minute Repeater

Building further on the mechanical concepts already presented in the ‘Decimal Minute Repeater’ caliber, which strikes hours, 10 minute intervals and minutes, this new creation presents additional concepts built to the requests of a private client.

The new Masterpiece retains the clear and easily readable seconds placement at 6 o’clock of the previous Masterpiece, now however a 24-hour indicator for a second time zone has been added at 12 o’clock. The day and night dials of this indicator are engraved with stylized sun and moon figures in 18 carat yellow and white gold. The mechanism is actuated simply via the crown; by pushing it in a short, clearly tangible distance, the second time zone advances forward one hour.
The movement, case and dial have been executed without the slightest compromise, as can be expected from the Voutilainen atelier. The hand made, engine turned dial of 18-carat rose gold has two contrasting fields and the case is entirely manufactured by hand using 18 th century methods. This provides beautiful visual results and is also one of the keys to insuring the full sonority of the 2 gongs.

According to the finest Swiss watchmaking traditions, the bridges, spring, hammers and many other parts have received hand-finished anglage; the surfaces of the bridges are adorned with Geneva stripes and the baseplate with circular and snail graining.
At the client’s request, the back of the watch has been hand engraved by master engraver Eddy Jaquet, with a design based on the theme of the ‘Seven Sisters’ from the myth of the Pleiades.

The Masterpiece 7 is the latest example of how a client’s desire for an exceptional and personalized timepiece can be realized by the Voutilainen atelier.

Technical details
Movement
Decimal minute repeater movement, striking hour, 10 minute and minute intervals via two hammers acting on two gongs.
Stainless steel, variable inertia balance wheel with 18-carat gold internal weights and adjustment screws and Breguet-Phillips hairspring.
Ruby endstones for the escapement wheel.
33 jewels.
39 hours of power reserve.

Case, dial and strap
39.50mm diameter 18-carat white gold case with teardrop lugs, hinged case back, hand made 18-carat white gold buckle.
Hand made, 18-carat white gold crown
18-carat gold, engine turned dial, finished in white eggshell with applied numerals.
Hand made, 18-carat rose gold hands
Hand sewn, blue crocodile strap.
Case back engraved with theme from the ‘7 Daughters of Atlas’ inside of the cover is engraved ‘Voutilainen’.
Second time zone at 12 o’clock with 18-carat yellow and white gold, engraved, sun and moon dials; seconds at 6 o’clock.
Sapphire glass front and back.

URWERK UR103 « Hexagon » Limited Edition

The traditional presentation of the year’s limited edition series «Black» URWERK is an event awaited with no small amount of impatience by aficionados of the brand. Ever since URWERK’s creation in 1997, the company has reserved the privilege of celebrating each new collection by dressing 10 timepieces - 10 exceptional timepieces - in black.

This year the waiting is finally over, because today heralds the unveiling of the new black platinum «Hexagon». The birth of URWERK’s «Black» limited editions goes back to 1999 with the presentation of a special version of URWERK’s very first watch, - the UR102 – which was clothed in black and called « Night Watch ».

The model quickly became a collector’s item, and no wonder, its aluminium case and platinum base may be considered run of the mill fusion today, but it was proudly revolutionary for its time. The concept was revived in 2006 with the now mythical « Black Bird », a creation with combat aesthetics and a name derived from military aviation. The « Black Shark » followed in 2007.

Today the UR103 « Hexagon » – a limited edition of only 10 pieces – takes its turn under the spotlight, with its striking black platinum case making a powerful statement and leaving no doubt that this is no ordinary timepiece.

The masculine lines of its angular satellites – in stark contrast to the soft curves of the classical 103 models – reinforces the sensation of an emanating force within. In the dark, the luminescent SuperLumiNova marking the hours and minutes indicates the time in an icy-cool menthol blue.

Technical details
The UR103 « Hexagon » – Limited edition of 10 pieces
  • Case: black platinum (PE-CVD treatment)
  • Dimensions: 50mm x 36mm x 13.5mm
  • Movement: Calibre 3.03: hand winding; 21,600bph/3Hz; 43 hours power reserve.
  • Triple base plate in ARCAP P40
  • Time indicated with satellites controlled by a Geneva Cross
  • Control Board: Titanium; power reserve indicator; time regulating dials indicating 15 minutes and seconds; precision adjustment screw.
  • Strap: black alligator leather

Hentschel Hamburg H1 Handwound Movement, 18ct Pink Gold Case

All H1-models impress with their elegant cases and distinct dials. Compared to other watches the bezel is remarkably thin and quite low key in it´s appearance. So the beholder can fully concentrate on the slightly domed dial and the finely contoured hands. To achieve this, Hentschel developed an elaborate three part case construction with four seals. This allows for watch cases, which are exceedingly delicate, but robust and water resistant at the same time.
The diameter of the case is 37 millimetres. Because of constructional reasons Hentschel uses only 750 pink or white gold for watch cases. To admire the hand finished movement, every H1 has a sapphire crystal display back.

Models
  • Ref. H1-R-kl-01- White silvered dial with Arabic numerals.
  • Ref. H1-R-kl-02- Silver-grey platinated dial with Arabic numerals.
  • Ref. H1-R-kl-04- Anthracite dial with Arabic numerals.
  • Ref. H1-R-kl-04röm - Anthracite dial with Roman numerals.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa XL Tourbillon Chiaroscuro 30th Birthday Model

To celebrate the 30th birthday of Michel Parmigiani's activity, once again this autumn his expertise will be highlighted by the exceptional production of a Tourbillon 30 seconds Chiaroscuro model specially dedicated to Haute Horlogerie.
This timekeeper combines all the aesthetic and technical qualities that Parmigiani Fleurier wanted to celebrate. Its movement, Calibre PF 501, was initially inspired by the weekly mechanical movement PF 110 (also magnified in a skeleton version, the first 2006 birthday model).

Entirely hand-made in the Parmigiani Fleurier workshops, it underlines technical expertise, technology and attractiveness. The Tourbillon, sober and elegant, honours the virtuosity and skill of the watchmaking craftsmen capable of its highly technical production. Its cage, visible on both sides of the movement, performs one rotation every 30 seconds, giving greater constancy of its settings.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tourbillon is rendered rare and unique by the pierced aperture of its movement. The bottom plate reveals, on the dial side, the entire gear-train of the mechanism and the double barrel. Several apertures have also been executed on the bridges (barrel bridge, power reserve bridge, lower intermediate mobile bridge and ratchet bridge).

An open window on a form of watchmaking art, the culmination of Parmigiani Fleurier's know-how can be seen from the care taken with each hand finishing operation on the movement's components, chamfered and jewelled over their entire length.

An historic timekeeper for the brand, the Kalpa Tourbillon Chiaroscuro model just had to have a completely innovative appearance. Fully visible, the beauty of the movement is enhanced by a PVD colouring technique, the pierced bottom plate and bridges of Calibre PF 501 forming a mosaic of metallic colours never achieved previously. These new intrinsic pink, purple, light brown and grey colours arise out of long and complex laboratory research.
The PVD colouring technology, far more stable than electroplating, enables the component to receive a coat of metal on both its sides, through the introduction of a reactive gas into a vacuum atmosphere, aiding the evaporation, transport and condensation of the colour on the component. Only a transparent sapphire dial could allow expression of the aesthetic and technical power of the Kalpa Tourbillon 30 seconds model. Likewise very complex, its execution is extremely original, because it employs the layer-by-layer electrodeposition technique.

For the aesthetic harmony to be complete, the very "metallic" beauty of the movement is complied with, and rhodium deposition is performed meticulously for the indexes, the timer and the power reserve indication.Produced in 30 units in platinum 950, the Kalpa Tourbillon Chiaroscuro birthday model celebrates the combination of traditional watchmaking art and avant-garde technology.
Technical details
Movement
Mechanical. Calibre: manual winding Parmigiani Fleurier 501, entirely hand-made, one-week power reserve
Tourbillon 30 seconds
Double barrel
Pierced bottom plate and bridges, hand-chamfered and jewelled over their entire length
Bottom plate and bridge colouring by PVD technology
Vib/h: 21,600
Dimensions: 13 x 10 1/2 ’’’ / 29.30 mm x 23.60 mm
Height: 5.50 mm
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: 7 days

Functions
Hours, minutes, centre second hand, one-week power reserve indicator

Dial
Cut-out transparent sapphire
Timer area rhodium-plated by layer-by-layer electro-deposition under dial
Index, power reserve area and Parmigiani Fleurier cartouche rhodium-plated by layer-by-layer electrodeposition on dial
Tourbillon visible on dial
Hands: "delta" shaped hours and minutes, Parmigiani Fleurier skeleton in blued-finish steel. Centre second hand and power reserve in blued-finish steel.

Case
Limited edition of 30 units in platinum 950

Strap
Hermès Havana alligator skin with folding buckle

Voutilainen OBSERVATOIRE Wristwatch

Timekeeping was once a domain dedicated to the pursuit of accuracy, and to this end, so-called ‘observatory watches’ were created. These watches possessed exceptional accuracy concerning all the important technical areas of movement functionality; however visual finishing was of secondary importance.

The surfaces of pinions and wheels were completely true and highly polished with exceptionally accurate tolerances; balance and winding springs were pre-tested and hand chosen, the dimensions of shafts, bearings and pivots perfectly realized. Watches such as these, created solely for accuracy and nothing else, are capable of a mean accuracy of only tenths of a second per day in test conditions, something virtually unheard of even in 21st century mechanical watch making.

Observatory watches were in general never offered for sale to the general public since they were destined solely for timing trials, a gesture of competitive spirit amongst watch companies jousting to prove their individual merit through the attainment of the greatest possible accuracy.

After the introduction of so-called ‘high-beat’ mechanical movements followed by the perfection of electronic, quartz based timekeeping during the1970’s, the culture of official observatory testing declined and slowly died out. This was replaced by a method of electronic batch testing uncased movements en masse as a method of quality control for large production numbers. With ever-larger amounts of movements being offered for testing each year, an institution called COSC was created to handle the chronometric measurement of movements in large quantities.

The resurrection of the Observatory Timekeeper
As chance would have it, Kari Voutilainen stroke of luck and found several Peseux caliber observatory movements that had never been finished since their initial production. After closely examining them, he made the decisions to a very limited series of wristwatches using these remarkable calibers. Each movement has been taken completely apart, technically adjusted and tested before being hand finished with anglage and perlage to bring it to the highest levels of visual and technical perfection possible. After this work is completed, each watch is foreseen with a finely turned dial, casework and hands in the distinctive style of the Voutilainen workshop.

Grossmann internal curvature of the balance spring
Benefiting such exceptional and historic calibers, Kari Voutilainen decided to use a very rare and unique system of balance spring curvature in their final production. In this special system the exterior trajectory of the spring uses a hand set Breguet over coil as found in the finest watches, whilst the equally important internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve. Grossmann codified a technique that gives the same amount of attention to the internal curvature of the balance as to the external over coil. Virtually unknown and fallen into disuse, the OBSERVATOIRE wristwatch marks the first use of the Grossmann curve in the 21st century, underlining the fact that many of the present day.

Besancon Observatory restarts chronometer certification in 2007
With this exceptional quality and historical background in mind, it came about that a chance meeting, between clients of Kari Voutilainen’s and Mr. Francoise Meyer of the Besancon Observatory, in April 2007, led to a request if the watch created for him could be submitted for chronometric testing by the observatory. After considering the special character of the watch and what it shares with the history of the observatory, a perfect moment was revealed to initiate the rebirth of chronometric certification at the Besancon observatory, which since the end of the 11970’s had concentrated mainly on scientific activities. Kari Voutilainen’s watch was the very first to be certified in this manner since the observatory ceased their regular issuing of chronometer certificates.

It is perhaps interesting to note that the Besancon certificate differs from COSC testing in that the entire watch assembly, including the case, is tested, not just the movement alone. This means that the complete watch in its final form as sold is certified to be a true chronometer. With COSC, although the movement might pass testing, the rest of the watch still needs to be assembled, cased and complication modules added, so there is no official guarantee(beyond perhaps that of the brand) that the finished watch maintains the identical precision it had upon leaving testing.

Grand Prix de Geneve 2007
All this horological activity was quit amazing for the Voutilainen workshop in 2007; yet there was to be a surprise in the store. Out of a pre-selection of 9 watches submitted by major and minor brands for the men’s watches category of the Grand Prix de Geneve, the Kari Voutilainen OBSERVATOIRE wristwatch was chosen as the ultimate laureate. It represents an extraordinary recognition of Kari Voutilainen’s independent workshop as well as his distinctive yet classic visual designs combined with a superlative attention to mechanical details. This prestigious achievement, voted upon by top Swiss watch industry insiders, is a public acknowledgement of horological mastery and a commitment to the creation of exceptional timekeepers.

Technical details
  • Observatory caliber peseux created solely for observatory trails and never commercialized for production. Hand finished with Geneva stripes, anglage and perlage.
  • 30mm x 5mm movement.
  • Ruby cap jewels for the escapement wheel.
  • 19 jewels.
  • Free sprung balance wheel with timing screws beating at 18,000 v.p-h.
  • Balance diameter 13.3mm with Breguet / Grossman balance spiral.
  • 38mm x 10.5mm thick 18-carat gold case and crown.
  • Engine turned gold dial, with gold applied numerals and gold hands.
  • Hand sewn, crocodile strap with 18-carat gold buckle.
  • Hand made wood presentation box with drawer, instructions and certificates

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Vulcain Cricket GMT X-TREME

With the Cricket GMT X-TREME, Vulcain is making a spectacular entry into the world of sports watches. Equipped with a new version of the legendary Cricket movement, the GMT X-TREME displays its resolutely dynamic nature through both its aesthetics and its use of materials.

Manufacture Vulcain is proclaiming its new sporting vocation to the sound of its legendary Cricket alarm calibre. Explorers, businessmen and globetrotters constantly on the move will find that this GMT alarm model delivers all they expect from a watch.

The generously sized 44 mm new case available in black titanium and steel or in titanium and 18-carat rose gold is water-resistant to 100 metres, enabling the wearer to use the alarm function even under water, a milieu where it remains perfectly audible. Accentuating the energetic nature of this timepiece, the distinctive dial with its central motif and oversized numerals is topped by a cambered sapphire crystal.
 In the same sporting spirit, the Vulcain Cricket GMT X-TREME features a new steel or rose gold notched bezel matching the new design of the crowns and pushpiece. The sapphire crystal case-back graced with the stylised “V” for Vulcain reveals the charcoal grey finish of the new Cricket Calibre V-16.
Equipped with two barrels ensuring a 42-hour power reserve and an alarm lasting around 20 seconds, this mechanical hand-wound movement is also fitted with the Vulcain Exactomatic system guaranteeing regular amplitude and enhanced rating precision. Comprising 191 parts, the Cricket Calibre V-16 drives central hour, minute and seconds hands, as well as an alarm function, window-type date display and 24-hour world-time indication adjustable using the screw-locked crown at 4 o’clock.
 Available on a vulcanised rubber or water-protected leather strap, the new Vulcain Cricket GMT X-TREME in titanium and 18-carat rose gold features a black/gold and a silver-coloured dial. The black titanium and steel version comes with either a predominantly black and silver- coloured dial, or a predominantly silver-coloured and black variation.

Water-resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet, this watch enables the wearer to use the alarm function even under water.

Technical details
Movement
Vulcain proprietary Cricket Calibre V-16 mechanical hand-wound, double barrel, charcoal grey finish, 191 components
Equipped with the Exactomatic system guaranteeing regular amplitude and enhanced rating precision
Frequency: 18'000 vibrations / hour
Rubies: 17
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: 15 to 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm, date window, world time on 24 hours adjustable by a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock.

Case, dial and strap
REF: 161925.165RF
Case: Black Titanium & steel 316L
Case dimensions: Diameter 44.00mm/ Length 52.80mm/Height 15.70mm
Dials: Black/Silver and Silver/Black colours
Crystal: top domed shape sapphire, glare proofed – back flat sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
Strap: vulcanised rubber or water-protected calf leather
Strap dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: Black Titanium & Steel 316L, folding type with security pushers.

REF: 165925.167RF
Case: 18K pink gold & Titanium
Case dimensions: Diameter 44.00mm/ Length 52.80mm/ Height 15.70mm
Dials: Black/Gold and Silver/Gold colours
Crystal: top domed shape sapphire, glare proofed – back flat sapphire
Water resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
Strap: vulcanised rubber or water-protected calf leather
Strap dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: Titanium, folding type with security pushers

Friday, December 12, 2008

Vulcain Aviator GMT « The World » Limited Edition

As a worthy commemoration of the 60th anniversary of its legendary Cricket calibre and its worldwide success,in 2007 Vulcain created the Aviator GMT “The World” limited edition model. Offering a shimmering depiction of the world map, its cloisonné enamel dial is entirely in tune with the visual world of the Manufacture and offers a renewed demonstration of its expertise in this field. Housing the proprietary Cricket V-10 alarm movement, the Vulcain “The World” is clearly the ideal partner for travellers without borders.

Available in 18-carat rose or white gold, the Aviator GMT “The World” limited edition is graced by an exceptional dial specially designed for this model and depicting the surface of the earth against the blue background of the oceans. Its flammé-pattern guilloché dial echoes the movement of the waves.

Crafted according to the technique of cloisonné enamelling, the continents are rimmed with thin gold wires and enamelled in various colours. Through this limited edition, Vulcain is once again proving its profound attachment to the artistry and craftsmanship of fine watchmaking, and vividly demonstrating its perfect mastery of cloisonné enamelling.


Secured by a Louisiana alligator leather strap with gold pin buckle, the 42 mm-diameter case in 18-carat rose or white gold is fitted with a double back acting as a resonance chamber. Water-resistant to 100 metres, it is enhanced by a cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal. At the heart of this exceptional model, the Cricket Calibre V-10 mechanical hand-wound movement drives the hours, minutes, seconds, alarm and 24-hour GMT world time displays, adjustable by a screwlocked crown at 4 o’clock. This advanced version of the legendary Cricket calibre is distinguished by its meticulous finishing including bridges decorated with “Côtes de Genève”, circular-grained or polished plates and blued screws. The surfaces of the twin barrels – one for the movement and the other for the striking mechanism – feature a finely snailed motif.

The Aviator GMT “The World” limited edition is produced in a series of just 60: 30 in 18- carat rose gold and 30 in 18-carat white gold. Each of the watches is individually numbered on the dial and on the case-back.

Technical details
  • Material : 18K rose gold, version in 18K white gold
  • Dial: Email cloisonné « The World »
  • Calibre: Vulcain Cricket No V-10, high grade finishing 12’’’ hand-winding mechanical alarm
  • Frequency: 18'000 vibrations / hour
  • Rubies: 17
  • Power reserve : 42 hours
  • Crystal: Domed shape sapphire, glare proofed
  • Water resistance : 100 metres / 330 feet
  • Case dimensions: Diameter: 42.00 mm/ Length: 51.00 mm/ Height: 14.45mm
  • Strap: Louisiana Alligator
  • Strap dimensions: 22/18 mm
  • Buckle: 18K rose gold or white gold, pin type

Vulcain Cricket Alarm Limited Edition with Cloisonné Enamel Dial

It has almost become a ritual for Vulcain: limited editions of watches on which the dial is a miniature work of art in its own right, finely crafted by gifted artisans. After the homage paid to aviation in 2003 and to the Olympic Games in 2004, the Manufacture from Le Locle is getting in touch with its inner child by offering fans of the Cricket calibre two models produced in limited editions of 50 each (25 in rose gold and 25 in white gold) which are mischievous and poetic allusions to the brand’s own creation.

A childlike soul? Maybe, but definitely not child’s play to make! For while at first glance the two limited editions starring animal motifs have an intriguing cartoon-like appeal – a rooster chosen for the Chinese year of the rooster and the singing insect known as a cricket – these models in fact enshrine the most accomplished technology and the nobility of a traditional form of craftsmanship, cloisonné enamel. They come in a new case with a diameter of 38 mm.

Behind the playful aspect of the motifs, Vulcain offers a reminder that alarms are one of its key concerns. The symbolism is crystal clear: the role of the rooster is to awaken sleepers at sunrise, while the cricket which inspired the famous movement has become synonymous with the shrill chirping of a morning alarm clock.

To depict these two animals which might well qualify as brand totems, Vulcain has chosen the most delicate type of enamelling, cloisonné enamel, because this technique enables extremely precise designs and exceptional colour quality. The main difficulty in cloisonné enamelling lies in the meticulous skill and the patience required to execute motifs with fine gold wires – barely thicker than a hair’s breadth – to mark out the contours of the design, while avoiding any mixing of colours.

After sticking these partitions to a gold plate, the delicate process of soldering the wires begins: the artisan applies the enamel to each alveolus or cell using a goose-feather. The enameller repeats this operation many different times to achieve optimal quality of the chromatic shading. The following stage, known as “surfaçage” or surface treatment, involves levelling off the enamel, the wires and the gold of the base using a diamond-polished file. To achieve the desired quality, each dial calls for more than a week’s work and at least thirteen firings in the oven heated to around 800 degrees Celsius.

As far as the movement of this emblematic watch is concerned, one need hardly remind connoisseurs that the Cricket is distinguished by the quality and the power of its alarm tone reminiscent of the shrill chirping of the insect after which it is named The mechanical double barrel hand-wound calibre is composed of 157 parts, painstakingly assembled by hand. The power of the sound stems from the double case-back which serves as a resonance chamber for the alarm function. By inviting the animal kingdom into its cloisonné enamel collections, Vulcain is offering collectors two exceptional individually numbered models, enriched with a humorous and poetic touch in the shape of a delightfully difficult choice between “chirp-chirp” and “cock-adoodle- doo”!

Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa XL Minute Repeater

The Kalpa collection pays tribute to the great watchmaking tradition, while revealing a new interpretation of the Minute Repeater for scrutiny. It demonstrates a highly modern spirit thanks to the innovative emphasis on its technical aspects, with the aperture in the dial revealing the wealth of its mechanical parts.

An open window on a watchmaking art form, it pays tribute to the virtuosity and skill of the master watchmakers capable of achieving this technological work. Through the dial the Minute Repeater, so often shrouded in mystery, is brought to life for your pleasure. The timer, time setting and chime mechanism can be seen working before your eyes.
Beyond the attention paid to the sound quality of its movement, the Minute Repeater for once, in this new Kalpa XL Minute Repeater model, has the complexity of its gears exquisitely emphasised.
The mechanical manual winding Calibre PF 350 has an hour and minute display, with a small seconds hand at 6 o'clock, and sounds every hour, quarter-hour and minute with two chimes. Its platinum 950 or 18 carat pink gold case is completely water-resistant to 30 metres.
Technical details
Movement
Mechanical Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre 350, manual winding
Bridges hand bevelled with "Geneva stripes" decoration, steel with lengthwise stone setting
Vib /h: 21,600
Diameter: 10 ¾’’’ / 24.85 mm
Height: 5 mm
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: 45 hours

Functions
Hour, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock,
Minute Repeater sounding every hour, quarter-hour and minute with two chimes

Dial
Sunray guilloche area, lilac, sienna, tan
Timer and small seconds counter with black transfer
Arabic numerals and indexes with rhodium-plated appliqué
Sapphire transparent in the centre
Hands: hour and minutes Parmigiani Fleurier "Delta"-shaped, rhodium plated, with luminous centre. "Delta"-shaped, blued skeleton small seconds hand.

Case
Platinum 950 or 18 carat pink gold

Strap
Hermes alligator.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

TIRET GOTHAM AUTOMATIC CHRONO PINK

As Tiret continues to play with colors of Gotham, PINK version unveils next. Pink is the color of universal love. Give you loved one the gift of Tiret Auto Chrono in Pink this holiday season. Exhibiting a modern interpretation through exciting novel touches Tiret’s Gotham Automatic Chrono is a vibrant take on tradition.

Time is introduced in a different way. Viewed from the top plate and the placement of the dials, admired at the reverse with its decorated mechanisms, and enjoyed for its unique composition, its soul is revealed at every angle. Tiret brings an astonishing new look and dependable performance to a classic.

Pristine, square shaped, accurate and customized in design and mechanics, the Automatic Chrono moves on a specifically manufactured movement, exclusive for Tiret and based on the ETA 7750. Traditional Swiss precision and engineering have together entered into an advanced concept.A classic complication redefined and set in a daring visual form are the hallmarks of the Tiret Gotham Automatic Chrono.


Technical details
Model: TIRET GOTHAM AUTOMATIC CHRONO, limited 500 piece production

Movement
Rhodium, mechanical automatic winding ETA 7750 chronograph; barrel and train wheel bridge surface circular grained; balance bridge surface circular grained; automatic device bridge surface with Geneva stripes; oscillating weight surface smoothed, edge sailed on heavy metal; oscillating weight with tapestry TIRET NEW YORK, blue background; TWENTY-FIVE 25 JEWELS SWISS stamped on barrel and train wheel bridge; 16 visible blue screws; main plate, chrono bridge and pallet bridge are all standard without decoration; Inca bloc

Functions
Apertures are date with black background and red print at 9 o’clock and day with white background and black print at 3 o'clock

Case
Choice of 18k rose, yellow or white gold, polished and brushed stainless steel, ceramic, natural rubber; six functional metal screws; sides are sapphire crystal and customized at client’s discretion using precious gemstones, ceramic, rubber, diamonds; case-front, anti-reflective, raised sapphire crystal; caseback is sapphire crystal; monogrammed crown; crown and push pieces in choice of metals and natural rubber

Dial
Metal plate designed as brick motif set under smoked sapphire glass, selection of aventurine, pietersite, chalcedony, rhodonite, petrified dinosaur bone, smoked sapphire glass; appliqué, thick, metal, Arabic numbers; appliqué, individual, metal signature Tiret “T;” highly stylized hands in an Empire State Building stencil; reverse, single bold metal open cut, signature Tiret “T”

Strap
Natural rubber, caoutchouc featuring bold cut signature Tiret “T;” adjustable belt buckle closure.

Vulcain Cricket Aviator GMT “The Dragon” Enamel Cloisonne Limited Edition

In Chinese mythology, the five-clawed dragon is the prerogative of the Emperor and his family. The finely enamelled dial of this Vulcain Aviator GMT “The Dragon” depicts this powerful symbol embodying cosmic energy and movement.

A fiery gaze, shimmering scales coating a long, supple body, a fierce mouth, a tapering crest: the dragon on the Vulcain Aviator GMT “The Dragon” undulates proudly over the dial of this exclusive limited-edition model. To honour the ancient culture of the “Middle Empire”, the brand from Le Locle calls upon the talent of the most skilled artisans.

As a Manufacture whose history is closely bound up with the finest watchmaking traditions, Vulcain confirms its expertise in the art of enamelling, a demanding technique calling for age-old know-how. A past master in this field, the brand uses the distinctive cloisonné enamel technique to create small partitioned receptacles in which the glass powder and metal oxides composing the enamel are placed. To bind this substance to the dial, the artisan heats the piece at an extreme temperature –a sensitive and risky operation in its own right. The partially uncertain and unpredictable nature of the process results a model that is totally unique in terms of its luminous reflections and the play on colours.

Behind this dial, a masterpiece of fine craftsmanship, beats the specially decorated and rhodium-plated Calibre V-13 alarm movement. The latter is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve thanks to its twin barrels. In addition to the hour, minute and seconds functions, the Vulcain Aviator GMT “The Dragon” displays world time on a 24-hour scale, adjustable by a screw-locked crown at 4 o’clock and a mechanical alarm which rings for 15 to 20 seconds. Once set off, the sound is effectively diffused by a double case-back acting as a resonance chamber. The 18-carat rose gold 42 mm-diameter case is guaranteed water-resistant to 100 metres. The Vulcain Aviator GMT “The Dragon” is produced in a limited edition of 30.

Special features: Cloisonné enamel dial, Limited Edition of 30. Vulcain proprietary Cricket Calibre V-13 mechanical hand-wound, double barrel, 157 components. Equipped with the Exactomatic system guaranteeing regular amplitude and enhanced rating precision. Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm, world time on 24 hours adjustable by a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock. Double case back acting as a resonance chamber and ensuring the water-resistance down to 100 meters / 330 feet.

Technical details
Ref: 100508.181L-18K pink gold- "The Dragon" cloisonné enamel dial – Black Alligator strap;
  • Case: 18K pink gold
  • Case Dimensions: Diameter 42.00mm/ Length 51.00mm/Height 14.45 mm
  • Dial: Cloisonné enamel « The Dragon » 30 pieces Limited Edition
  • Calibre: Vulcain Cricket V-13 - 12’’’ hand wound mechanical alarm
  • Frequency: 18'000 vibrations / hour
  • Rubies: 17
  • Power reserve: 42 hours
  • Alarm duration: 15 to 20 seconds
  • Crystal: domed shape sapphire, glare proofed
  • Water-resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
  • Strap: Alligator leather
  • Strap dimensions: 22/18 mm
  • Buckle: 18K pink gold, pin type.

MeisterSinger Perigraph

The MeisterSinger Perigraph closes a gap in its one-handed watch collection. Typically MeisterSinger, its engineering is amazingly simple and consistent in design; that is how the calendar function was resolved. You can easily read the date at the red index marker on the date ring.
Once wound, the hour hand, driven by the Swiss automatic movement, calmly continues its rounds for 48 hours. You can easily read the date at the red index marker on the date ring.

The glass-bottom casing allows a glimpse at the high-quality automatic mechanism, decorated with Geneva strips. The Perigraph is available in two case sizes:43 mm and 38 mm.

Technical details
Model: Perigraph

Movement
ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1
Automatic
25 jewels
28800 semi-oscillations per h – 4 Hz
Incablock anti-shock system
Power reserve: 38 h

Case
Stainless steel with 6-screwed exhibition back
Diameter 43 mm
Height 11,5 mm
Domed sapphire glass
Water resistance: 5 bar

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Luminox Lockheed Martin Collection EVO SR-71 Blackbird™ Series 9070/44mm

Luminox presents its limited edition, 500 unit evolution (EVO) SR-71 Blackbird™ series 9070 featuring an automatic mechanical Valjoux chronograph movement.

The United States Air Force retired the SR-71 Blackbird™ in 1990. A truly remarkable aircraft, the SR-71 Blackbird™ can be admired at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. The new watch series acknowledges and celebrates its record accomplishments and significance in aviation history.

In keeping with the current large-size trend in sport watches, the EVO SR-71 Blackbird™ watch is 44mm in diameter, 2mm larger than its original series. The black PVD treated stainless steel watch case and steel bracelet manifest the black reconnaissance jet SR-71 Blackbird™. The all black watch design is streamlined to further evoke the flavor of the SR-71 Blackbird™ jet. Although the watch is water resistant to 100 meters, there is no exterior turning bezel to mark diving time. The turning bezel is built inside the watch.


The watch is fitted with a Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic mechanical chronograph movement, rotor mounted on ball bearing with uni-directional winding, and 42-hours of power reserve. A highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with A/R coating is standard for this series. The black watch dial is powered by 12 LLT (Luminox Light Technology) gaseous light tubes that glow continuously for more than 25 years, and 100 times brighter than other luminous watches.

Technical details
  • Origin: Swiss Made
  • Size/Diameter: 44 mm
  • Water Resistance :100 meters, 10 ATM
  • Movement: Valjoux 7750 Automatic Chronograph
  • Case Back: 316L steel, PVD black, screwed
  • Glass: Sapphire glass, single anti-reflecting coating
  • Case: 316L steel, PVD black
  • Bezel: 316L steel, PVD black, fix
  • Crown: 316L steel PVD black, screwed
  • Standard strap: Bracelet 23mm, 316L solid steel bracelet with solid signature buckle, all PVD black

RICHARD MILLE AUTOMATIC RM 016 Diamond Studded Versions

RM 016 -White Gold watch studded with diamonds
RM 016 - Red Gold watch studded with diamonds
RM 016 baguette black sapphires and white diamonds
Technical details
  • CALIBER RM 005-S: Skeletonized automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, date and adjustable rotor geometry.
  • ROTOR WITH VARIABLE GEOMETRY: Arm in grade 2 titanium; Flange in grade 2 titanium
  • 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws; Wings in 18-carat, high palladium content white gold; Weight segment in tungsten/cobalt alloy; Ceramic ball bearings
  • Unidirectional; anti-clockwise winding direction.
  • POWER RESERVE: Circa 55 hours.
  • BOTTOM PLATE, BRIDGES AND BALANCE COCK MADE OF TITANIUM
  • The double barrel system
  • Semi-instantaneous, placed in a vertical aperture at 7 o’clock. The calendar disc of sapphire crystal is treated with non-reflective coating on both sides.
  • SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE

De Bethune DB21 MAXI CHRONO

DB21 Maxi Chrono is an another stunning creation by innovative watch maker De Bethune. Part of their ambitious dream watch collection this single button chronograph with 5 coaxial hands created with the aim of making it easier to read the chronograph times, independently of the position of the hour and minute hands.

Technical details
  • Indications: Chronograph seconds,minutes(60 Minutes)and hours(24 hours).
  • Case Material: Platinum
  • Diameter: 45mm
  • Movement: DB2034 single button chronograph
  • Power Reserve: 4 days.

Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing "One-One-Five" Chronograph

The ambitious partnership now binding PERSHING (a FERRETTI Group brand and prestigious Italian shipyard specialising in luxury yacht construction) with PARMIGIANI FLEURIER (a Swiss Fine Watchmaking brand) arose from a shared entrepreneurial culture. The fusion of the values of excellence of PERSHING and PARMIGIANI FLEURIER sealed the promise of a unique history, marked by the aim of constant perfection of tried and tested know-how.

The result of this partnership was the creation of the first range of PERSHING aquatic sports watches, dedicated to its gentlemen and lady customers, with a comprehensive variety of models and mechanisms on offer. The Pershing collection comprises two different lines: The limited edition "one-one-five", available in 18 carat rose gold and 950 palladium, created in honour of the biggest and most prestigious Pershing vessel, measuring 115 feet, and the Pershing Chronographs collection, available in steel with four dial variants, which is non-limited edition.
Two men, Tilli Antonelli and Michel Parmigiani, succeeded over the course of several decades in creating an extraordinary industrial facility, embodying the object of their passion. The young Antonelli has a fascinating history, in which his intuition led him at a very early age into boatbuilding, while he sailed on a legend of the seas, il Moro di Venezia.

At almost the same time, on the other side of the Alps, in the heart of a region known as Val-de-Travers, a young student called Michel Parmigiani discovered a passion for the mechanics of time, inspired by another legend - the grand masters of Swiss watchmaking. The meeting of their two worlds could only underline their will to perfect the real to achieve the exceptional.

Since 1985, PERSHING, one of the world leaders in top-end yacht construction, has made innovation pay off with each of its new creations. A symbol of an elegant, refined Italian aesthetic with all devotees of the sea, it is distinguished by its capacity for innovation, its way of anticipating trends and giving them a unique identifying style. By adhering to in-house production, and the choice of the finest materials, the best boatbuilding craftsmen pull off the feat of offering the prestige of a unique creation every time.

With a total of around 100 yachts built every year, PERSHING exhibits gems of know-how on a daily basis. At least twelve different professions are involved in creating the tens of yachts in construction (from 46 ‘ to 115’ feet for the biggest). From resin specialists to joiners, from hydraulic engineers to architects, over 500 people work in bringing PERSHING's constantly evolving ideas to fruition.

Since its beginnings in 1996, PARMIGIANI FLEURIER has borne the tradition of high quality Swiss watchmaking. Thanks to the trust and support of the Sandoz family foundation, a lifetime passion has been transformed into an exceptional jewel of Fine Watchmaking. Its template for expansion has been set out by the acquisition of a rich diversity of production centres, creating a craft-industrial facility acknowledged today as one of the few fully verticalised and completely independent Swiss manufactures, incorporating all the facets of a watchmaking art essential to achieving a high tradition watch. Today over 500 craftsmen are involved in this watchmaking success story, contributing to the spread of the PARMIGIANI FLEURIER brand throughout the world, with the creation of over 5000 timekeepers per year.

This similarity of outlooks and passions is today the core reason behind the two companies bringing together their creative spirit and giving life to a whole new family of highly sporty watchmaking collections, from the chronograph to grande complication mechanical models. The Pershing collection, making its world premiere today, is also the starting point for a long-term association that may also be manifested in more advanced collaborations in creating timekeepers customised to a yacht or the customer's wishes. Probing the complex world of a perpetually moving watchmaking mechanism or exploring the mysteries of the ocean depths requires an absolute knowledge of one's art.

The Pershing Collection
The Limited Edition "One-One-Five" Chronograph and the Pershing Chronograph Line
For its first complete collection of aquatic chronographs, there could be no better route to mastery for PARMIGIANI FLEURIER than allying its technical expertise with one of today's biggest boat builders: PERSHING. A symbol of power, speed, innovation and performance, PERSHING's image was particularly suited to the creation of a first gold, palladium and steel chronograph line.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER had for several years wanted to develop a new collection of watches with highly sporty lines and volumes. The watchmaking project took a major turn with the formation of the partnership between PERSHING and PARMIGIANI FLEURIER. In this new light, the look of the new aquatic timekeeper, especially innovative for PARMIGIANI FLEURIER, took shape: its round and powerfully-shaped case, with stylistic emphases strongly identifying with the Kalpa line (a Parmigiani Fleurier emblem), a uni-directional rotary bezel, rubber chronograph push-pieces built into the loops, 200-metre (660 feet) water resistance, tachometer and rubber or leather straps made to measure.
The convergence line of the two identifying styles speaks volumes. The round and tighter curves of the case resemble a hull fuselage; its highly sharp loops are as wiry as the side ports on Pershing boats; the choice of fine materials such as 18 carat rose gold or 950 Palladium is an echo of the finest rare wood varieties or refined leatherwork in a yacht's interior furnishings. Finally, the special form of the numerals on the dial is in the spirit of the PERSHING logotype.
The original aesthetic of the PERSHING model is no less perfectly identifiable with PARMIGIANI FLEURIER. It incorporates all the style codes now connected to the brand, by virtue of which it retains a timeless appearance. The emblematic curve of its loops, the "Delta" shaped hands, the dial colours and decorations, the refinement of the finishes along with all the components of the chronograph movement. All these elements form the signature of the PARMIGIANI FLEURIER philosophy.
The first collection created in homage to this new partnership has emerged under the sign of the limited edition "one-one-five", in honour of the biggest and most prestigious Pershing vessel, measuring 115 feet, which can be found engraved on the watch case-back.

This exclusively 18 carat rose gold or 950 Palladium series comes in two dial versions, Tan and Silver, each of 115 pieces, incorporating the self-winding chronograph movement Calibre PF 190. The Pershing chronograph has an hour and minute display, as well as chronograph seconds in the centre, and has one 12 hour counter and one 30 minute counter, a small seconds, plus the tachometer and large date indicator. The case is water resistant to 660 feet, and has a rotary bezel.
Technical details
Model: Pershing Collection Limited edition "one-one-five" chronograph

Movement
Self-winding mechanical Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre 190
Hand-bevelled bridges, with "Côtes de Genève" decoration.
Vib/h: 36,000
Diameter: 13 ’’’ / 29.30 mm
Height: 6.50 mm
Jewels: 31
Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions
Hour, minutes, central chronograph seconds, chronograph function with 12 hour counter and 30 minute counter, large date window. Tachometer scale display.

Dial & hands
Two dial colours to choose from: Silver or Tan
“Côtes de Genève” decoration
Tachometer display on ring
Hands: Parmigiani Fleurier "Delta" shaped, with luminous material in the centre.

Case
18 carat rose gold or 950 palladium
Polished and satin finish
Ovoid rubber chronograph push-pieces
Uni-directional rotary bezel
Water resistance: 200 metres or 660 feet
Case-back engraved with illustration of Pershing 115’ yacht

Bracelet / Strap
18 carat rose gold or 950 palladium with satin-finished central links and deployant safety clasp
Natural rubber with adjustable deployant buckle
Alligator skin

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Vulcain Cricket DIVER X-TREME

Vulcain unveils the Cricket DIVER X-TREME, its new instrument for exploring the ocean depths. A complete measuring instrument, this new model is equipped with a bidirectional inner bezel and beats to the rhythm of the legendary Cricket V-10 alarm movement. In the wake of its famous Nautical model, the brand from Le Locle is confirming its presence in the maritime world.Vulcain has built much of its legend on producing high-performance diving instruments.

In 2008, the brand deepens and strengthens its command of the abyss by presenting the Cricket DIVER X-TREME, its new tool designed to explore the vast underwater expanses. Housing the famous V-10 alarm calibre, the model provides all the crucial information divers need. The dial is topped by a bidirectional rotating bezel adjustable by a screw-locked crown at 9 o’clock. Protected by a cambered sapphire crystal, this ring is held firmly in place once adjusted, thereby avoiding any risk of accidental handling. The alarm time is displayed on a small graduated scale on which hours are divided into twenty-minute periods indicated by the figures 10,30, 50.
The 44 mm-diameter case is fluted on the side and secured on the back by the legendary Vulcain triple case-back enabling the alarm to remain perfectly audible even under water. To withstand maximum pressure of 10 bars (equivalent to a depth of 100 metres), the middle case of the Vulcain Cricket Diver X-TREME is composed of several parts made from materials such as titanium, gold or steel. The crown between 3 and 4 o’clock serves to adjust the watch, while a push-piece just above between 2 and 3 o’clock is used to set the alarm.
The Vulcain Cricket DIVER X-TREME is available with a case in black-coated titanium and steel or in titanium and rose gold. The dials come in a choice of three versions: black and silver-coloured, black and yellow, or silver-coloured and black. Powered by Cricket Calibre V-10, the Vulcain Cricket DIVER X-TREME displays the hour, minute, seconds, alarm time and a graduated 60-minute counter activated by an inner rotating bezel adjustable by a screw-locked crown at 9 o’clock. It is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve as well as an alarm lasting from 15 to 20 seconds.

Water-resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet and Vulcain triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber, the alarm remains perfectly audible even under water.

Technical details
Movement
Vulcain proprietary Cricket Calibre V-10 mechanical hand-wound, double barrel, 157components
Equipped with the Exactomatic system guaranteeing regular amplitude and enhanced rating precision.
Frequency: 18'000 vibrations / hour
Rubies: 17
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: 15 to 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm, graduated 60-minute counter activated by an inner rotating bezel adjustable by a screw-lock crown at 9 o’clock

Case, dial and strap
Ref: 101924.160RF
Case: Black Titanium & Steel 316L
Case dimensions: Diameter 44.00 mm - Length 52.80 mm - Height 14.30 mm
Dials: Black/Silver, Silver/Black and Black/Yellow colours
Crystal: domed shape sapphire, glare proofed
Water-resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
Strap: vulcanised rubber or water-protected calf leather
Strap dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: Black Titanium & Steel 316L, folding type with security pushers

Ref: 105924.162RF
Case: 18K pink gold & Titanium;
Case dimensions: Diameter 44.00mm/Length 52.80mm/Height 14.30mm
Dials: Black/Gold colour
Crystal: domed shape sapphire, glare proofed
Water-resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
Strap: vulcanised rubber or water-protected calf leather
Strap dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: Titanium, folding type with security pushers.

RICHARD MILLE RM 020 Tourbillon Pocket Watch

Part of a series of new horological advances realized by Richard Mille was the successful creation of a non-metallic movement baseplate, the first in watchmaking history. The new material utilized was carbon nanofiber, and the innovation was first tested with great success in the RM 006, an experimental model. The technical results were remarkable and Richard Mille therefore decided to expand the use of carbon nanofiber further throughout his tourbillon range.

Progress in this important area of horological research begun by Richard Mille has now opened up a new era of applying new materials in the watchmaking industry. The RM 020 furthers this development by being the first pocket watch ever built using a baseplate structure of carbon nanofiber. The RM 020 is supplied together with a special type of titanium watch chain comprising a new design of fast release/attach mechanism.
In the tradition of fine pocket watches of the past, the RM 020 can also be used as a pendulette de bureau with a specially designed stand in complementary style.
MAIN FEATURES
  • CARBON NANOFIBER MOVEMENT PLATE: This is an isotropic composite material created from carbon nanofibers molded under a high pressure of 7,500 N/cm2 and a temperature of 2,000˚C, resulting in a material with high mechanical, physical and chemical stability in all directions. The ribbed perimeter of the movement plate assures the highest rigidity between the plate and bridges. Carbon nanofiber composite structures such as this are amorphous, chemically neutral and dimensionally constant within a very wide range of operating temperatures, including those outside of normal ranges. This stability assures the highest integrity of the movement’s going train under all conditions.
  • POWER RESERVE: circa 10 days, supplied by two directly engaged winding barrels, visible via a numeric sale located between 9 and 10 o’clock.
  • VARIABLE INERTIA, FREE SPRUNG BALANCE: The free-sprung balance with overcoil spring (originally designed for pocket watches in particular), gives better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly, and also guarantees excellent chronometric results over an extended period of time.
  • BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the start of winding. It also aids in the even distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
  • FUNCTION SELECTOR: In a manner similar to a car’s gearbox, pulling the crown located at 12 o’clock allows one to select the winding, neutral and hand setting functions accordingly. A hand at 4 o’clock displays the selected function: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hands).
  • MODULAR TIME SETTING MECHANISM FITTED AGAINST THE CASE BACK: Provides the following advantages for longevity and maintenance:
  • - Since the component is mounted outside of the movement, the time setting assembly can be changed without affecting the integrity of the bottom plate in the event of a possible defect or during maintenance
  • - The mounting and dismantling of this module from the back will not require the removal of the hands and the dial
  • WHEEL BASED TIME SETTING SYSTEM: Provides smooth time setting functions through the elimination of engaging friction by replacing it with rolling friction.
  • ZIRCON ENDSTONES FOR THE TOURBILLON CAGE: This reflects a technical and long-term view towards the elimination of wear phenomena, resulting in improved technical tribology.
  • CENTRAL BRIDGE IN RIGIDIFIED ARCAP:The ribs ensure better rigidity for the bottom plate/bridge assembly.
  • SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
  • WINDING BARREL TEETH AND THIRD-WHEEL PINION WITH CENTRAL INVOLUTE PROFILE: The central involute profile of the winding barrel teeth and pinion provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promotes effective rotary motion and allows for compensation of possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus insuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
Technical details
Case
Central case band in titanium (all versions), with both front and back bezels in either 18ct red gold, white gold or titanium
Dimensions : Length 62 mm x 52.00 mm (widest point) x 15.60 mm (thickest area)

Movement
CALIBER RM 020 : Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes, power reserve and function selector.
- Movement dimensions: 42.20 x 42.20 mm
- Thickness: 8.40 mm
- Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
- Balance wheel diameter: 10 mm
- Number of jewels: 28
- Balance: GLUCYDUR, 2 arms,20 setting screws,inertia moment 10 mg cm2,angle of lift 53º
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Balance spring: ELINVAR by NIVAROX
- Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
- Stone setting in white gold
- Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless- antimagnetic- suitable for tempering.

FINISHING
MOVEMENT
- Anglage and polishing by hand
- Locking sections hand polished
- Sapphire blasted milled sections
- Lapped and polished contact points
- Burnished pivots
STEEL PARTS
- Sapphire blasted surfaces
- Anglage and polishing by hand
GEAR WHEELS
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
- Circular finished faces
- Gilded (before cutting the teeth)
- Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance

Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton

TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton line reveals the creative expertise and craftsmanship of the designers and master watchmakers of the tradition-rich Swiss watch brand. This quality timepiece shows its strengths in both design and technology with the sophisticated and fascinating retrograde seconds display function.

The name of the TIRION is derived from the constellation of Orion, one of the most easily recognizable and brightest in the heavens, located in the equatorial region of the sky. The TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton is available in a stainless steel version and an exquisite red gold version. The seconds retrograde are separated in three, twenty-second sectors each. An exclusive, special version of the timepiece also includes a Swiss quality mechanical movement with automatic winding.
The imaginative concept of changeability has already been embodied in the successful HERIOS and MEREA TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton lines. Just as unusual and rare as the TriRetrograde function is the unique dial, which is placed in the round, nine-part case. It is built up of three layers: the movement base is worked with fine circular graining, the second level covered with 'Côtes de Genève' patterning. The uppermost level is decorated with the faceted latticework formed by the Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12 and the skeleton Milus symbol at 6 o'clock that allows a clear view of the date display.

The composition of the three seconds display sectors is of eye-catching design: skeleton hours and minute hands constantly allow a view of the three blued seconds hands that jump back in 20-second rhythm. Starting at 6 o’clock, the first hand jumps instantly back to the right to its starting position after 20 seconds. Going clockwise, the next seconds hand at 10 o’clock followed by the third at 2 o’clock take over the same task. This alternation tirelessly repeats itself, giving the overall impression of a magic dance performed by the seconds hands.

Mechanical perfection reveals its secrets: the dial of the TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton is a picture of unique precision and allows an exclusive view of the inner life of the automatic movement via the opening at its centre. Connoisseurs of consummate craftsmanship will be fascinated. This timepiece shows off its talents at the back of the case also. The round convex sapphire crystal window in the screwed-down case back gives a view of the movement and the skeleton oscillating rotor in the form of the Milus logo with the brand symbol at its centre. A comfortable alligator-leather strap rounds off the elegant appearance of the watch.

An exceptional function combined with extravagant design and superlative Swiss watchmaking art: with the TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton, Milus sets a further milestone in its imaginative conceptualisation of this exceptional mechanical complication, combined with superb craftsmanship.

Technical details
Movement
Swiss quality mechanical movement in an exclusive special version
Automatic with retrograde seconds in 3 sectors of 20 seconds each
Circular graining decoration, 'Côtes de Genève' patterning
Large date display at 6 o'clock
Skeleton oscillating rotor in the form of the Milus logo with the brand symbol at its centre

Case
In stainless steel, 45 mm diameter
Curved, oval sapphire crystal;9-part case, satinised case back screwed down with 6 screws
Screwed strap attachment elements mounted onto case
Round, convex, sapphire crystal viewing window
Water-resistance: To 30 m (100 feet)

Functions
Hours, minutes, 3 sectors each of 20 seconds at 6, 10 and 2 o'clock

Dial
On three different levels:movement base decorated with circular graining, second level with 'Côtes de Genève' patterning and uppermost level enhanced by faceted latticework of numbers
Silver-coloured Arabic numerals at 3, 9 and 12 o'clock
Retrograde seconds display engraved on three bridges (with 'Côtes de Genève' patterning, polished)
Opening: round inner zone with view of the complete date display
Large date within the Milus symbol that is at 6 o'clock, date coated with SuperLuminova
Hands:Faceted, skeleton hours and minutes hands and 3 seconds hands, partially coated with white SuperLuminova

Strap
Black alligator leather
Clasp: Stainless steel buckle clasp

Price
Recommended retail price: USD 13’900.00

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