Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Sinn Series 756 Duochronograph & Series 900 Multifunctional Chronograph Pass a Crash Test Under Extreme Conditions by DEKRA

The innate curiosity of the engineer was the trigger for the watch test on the compressed air catapult. The conventional industry stress tests for watches provide a good indication of the reliability of these timepieces.

SINN Spezialuhren zu Frankfurt am Main went a step further with two watches from the 756 and 900 series and had them tested under extreme conditions by DEKRA at the Technology Center in Klettwitz (Brandenburg). The test specification: impact speed of 64 km/h with up to 81 g (1 g = 9.8 m/sec (3.2 ft/sec)2) on the wrist of a dummy in an automobile body. The automotive specialists at DEKRA had never performed a test like this before, and it remains unique to this day.

The DEKRA testing center was the location of a watch test that remains one of a kind. SINN Spezialuhren is known for using unconventional technologies and materials in manufacturing its watches. Thus, one of the most unusual stress tests carried out under standardized conditions at DEKRA was ideal for Brand's purposes.
Sinn Model 756 duochronograph
The two test candidates Model 756, the duochronograph equipped with a case featuring TEGIMENT technology, a back made of nickel-free stainless steel, dehumidifying technology and magnetic field protection up to 80,000 A/m (100 millitesla or 1,000 gauss).Model 900, the multifunctional chronograph equipped with a case with TEGIMENT technology,a back made of nickel-free stainless steel and dehumidifying technology. Crash tests for the automobile industry are part of the daily routine at the DEKRA Technology Center.

A watch on the wrist of a 75-kilogram "human" dummy had never been launched from the compressed air catapult before. For real human passengers in an automobile, the simulation test would correspond to acceleration forces of up to 81 g at a speed of 64 km/h. Without the use of safety belts and airbags, the chance of survival in a real crash would be zero.
Sinn Model 900 multifunctional chronograph
The dummy in the DEKRA test was buckled up – and with it, the watches from SINN. This was a routine test, but the engineers and technicians at DEKRA watched with interest. First, the acceleration system for the test had to be prepared: the auto body was fastened to the catapult,the seat installed, the dummy positioned in the "vehicle" using a hoist, the watch fastened to the dummy's wrist, and the high-speed cameras (1,000 images per second) and the lighting system (60,000 watts) brought into place. All of the screwed-on, specifically positioned and adjusted parts were re-checked.

Then the countdown started as if for a spaceship and the technicians left the launch ramp. Buckled up in his seat and wearing his SINN watch, the dummy looked rather lonely. The final launch preparations got underway behind a thick glass window in the control center above the test hall. Behind sound-insulated walls, a compressor filled a set of air tanks to 150 bar. The catapult was held in front of the launch jet with several brake cylinders connected in series.

With a loud bang, the catapult was released.The pressure mounted as the countdown continued – ten seconds left. With a bang, the dummy and his watch were flung into the safety belt in 60 milliseconds. The dummy's upper body shot forward like lightning. The arm with the watch waved through the opening of the side window. After 20 meters,the vehicle body braked to a stop. The SINN team with SINN's CEO engineer Lothar Schmidt and the technical developers Dr. Wolfgang Schonefeld and Dr. Ronald Boldt (CEO of SUG) approached the catapult. Would they find a "time bomb" ticking there, or merely an extremely durable watch? By comparison,aerobatic and jet pilots are exposed to acceleration forces of "only" 11 g. The DEKRA test was much tougher!

The initial inspection revealed that the dummy was fine, the watch that was knocked against the car body showed no external signs of wear, the spring bars of the watch band were just as straight as before the launch, and the watch was running. The subsequent measurement on the timing machine showed how the mechanical movement withstood acceleration forces up to 81 g. Compared with the values recorded before the test, the new measurement data were practically identical.

After the second test with the 900 model, the DEKRA and SINN teams recognized that this was no"time bomb" ticking away, but a perfectly functioning, extremely robust mechanical wristwatch. Here as well, there were only minimal changes in the amplitude values in the range of hundredths of a second. In addition to robust watch mechanisms,hardened cases and sapphire crystal glass surfaces also contribute to the enduring beauty and reliable functionality of these watches in everyday use. DEKRA has officially certified this unusual watch stress test.

Sinn 6100 Series

The intersection of tradition and the contemporary lifestyle. The 6100 series captures your attention with its traditional design and sophisticated details. Characteristic features of the Regulateur include the large central minute hand and the hour and second hands in separate areas of the dial: these watches are modeled on the public precision pendulum clocks of the 19th and 20th centuries.The sophisticated movement with blued screws is clearly visible through the sapphire crystal glass.

Model Variations:
• Rose gold: Case made of 18-carat rose gold, with SINN SZ 04 movement and second stop function
• Classic 4N: With gold-plated hands and appliqués, polished and satinized stainless steel case
• Classic B: With blued hands and appliqués, polished and satinized stainless steel case

Technical details
- Guilloché, silver electroplated dial
- Fine, sophisticated chronometer-quality SINN SZ 04 movement
- Glucydur screw balance
- Triovis precision adjustment system
- Sapphire crystal glass in front and back with anti-reflective coating
- Pressure-resistant to 10 bar (= 100 m water depth)

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in Platinum Ref. IW524104

The Portuguese Minute Repeater, with its ability to make the time audible with great accuracy, is already a true horological work of art in its own right. However, the skeletonized limited edition of this orchestra on the wrist makes a further quantum leap forwards – it even displays the source of the tones. This horological solitaire is also available in platinum.

The tones of the Portuguese Minute Repeater are produced in a dark place. It is not normally accessible, even to an inquisitive eye. For this complicated mechanism, assembled from 250 individual parts, operates in seclusion beneath the dial for the pure pleasure of its wearer, for whom it transforms the time into tones with great accuracy in response to a simple movement of the slide. The repeating mechanism was invented at a time without electric light or luminous hands. The achievement by the watchmakers of an earlier age, who first succeeded in transforming the time indicated by the hands of a watch into a complicated series of movements by wheels, racks and levers, and finally into hammer strokes on gongs, continues to command high respect.



Only a few master watchmakers today possess this degree of proficiency. Yet the fascination of the Minute Repeater still prevails, even if its original raison d’être no longer applies. In the meantime, IWC has taken yet another decisive step forward with the Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette. For it now combines acoustic with visual delight: It makes the most spectacular mechanism in the field of the grandes complications visible and readily appreciated.

Admittedly, the Portuguese Minute Repeater made a positive contribution to this project in the sense that, with its case diameter of 42 mm, it approaches the size of a pocket watch. So there really is something to see. Moreover, the complete repeating mechanism is accommodated directly under the dial, and it is not hidden from view by a calendar module of any kind. The critical conceptual step was thus to configure the technical universe of the minute repeater as an animated dial, which is scarcely disturbed by the presence of the two slender hands.

To achieve total transparency, the dial itself was pared down to a narrow graduated ring at the edge of the case, and the repeating mechanism exposed as much as possible. The bridges with their jewel bearings were reduced to a minimal, functionally necessary supporting structure. This skeletonization, which continues as far as the underlying 95911calibre pocket watch movement, is not envisaged as artistic decoration.

Rather the aesthetics of precision and complex mechanics are showcased in a previously unseen fashion behind the two coated sapphire glasses on the front and rear. The Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette exposes everything. But for only a privileged few. After two strictly limited editions of 50 watches each in rose gold and white gold, the platinum variant in a limited edition of 25 watches crowns this horological work of art in a manner of speaking.

Technical details
Model:Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in platinum Ref. IW524104

Features
Skeletonized mechanical movement, minute repeater, small seconds with stop function, Breguet balance spring, limited to 25 pieces

Movement
Calibre 95911
Vibrations : 18,000/h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels : 54
Power reserve : 43 h
Winding : Hand-wound

Case
Material : Platinum
Glass : Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating
Diameter : 43 mm
Height : 12.3 mm

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater

Collectors the world over will be in awe of Vacheron Constantin’s iconoclastic Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater watch – the world’s slimmest-ever skeleton minute repeater watch. Born of inspired workmanship, countless craft traditions and over two and a half centuries of Vacheron Constantin’s horological achievement and expertise, the Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater watch is a veritable work of art – a perfect blending of the most precious Vacheron Constantin movement and most exquisite skeleton of its kind, lovingly set in a case of platinum– the most precious metal known to man. A rare masterpiece of breathtaking proportions – a timeless labyrinth of sparkling reflections of light and shade – this watch is an impassioned work of art made in a limited edition of just 15 pieces.

The ultimate in the watchmaker's art, this Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater watch is distinguished by its highly elaborate decoration in which half of the basic movement has been delicately cut away. The result is lightness and ethereal elegance beyond compare. Vacheron Constantin pierces, decorates and chases each part and chamfers the bridges. For optimal transparency, the sapphire dial is never more than thirty-hundredths of a millimeter thick.

Vacheron Constantin has imagined this watch as a means of "visualizing" the passing time in a halo of light, with each minuscule part seemingly inspired by a life of its own. Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater watch remains a work of exception, a luxury object that only a rare and passionate few are destined to possess. An object of such beauty is a joy forever, and this Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater model is a collector’s dream in its execution.

THE ART OF CREATING A SKELETON WATCH
A skeletonized watch allows you to view the complete movement of the piece in all its perfection while at the same time being able to appreciate its complications and time displays. The spectacular intricacy and technically demanding expertise required to produce a skeletonized piece ensure that it has remained a truly exclusive art with only a handful of distinguished watch houses capable of mastering the entire process. Given the complexities of the technique and the need to reduce the size of all elements to their most refined and precisely finished form, most watch houses skeletonize very few of their movements, generally the ones featuring the most elaborate complications.

Vacheron Constantin pays particular attention to the finish of its skeleton watches, from the decoration, the chamfering, the côtes de Genève… each stage is performed with the utmost attention to delicate detail. Every tenth of a millimeter of metal is scrutinized under the watchmaker's loupe. "Even a barely visible screw is adjusted and polished by hand," explains Chrystian Lefrançois, Master Watchmaker in Vacheron Constantin’s Complications workshop. "It is the ultimate challenge, the quest for perfection, and most of all a sense of achievement for the watchmaker who has the honor of bringing these complications to life." This is why these pieces are the preserve of the most impassioned watchmakers, for whom technical precision and beauty are of equal consequence.

Vacheron Constantin has for many years been one of the very few full-fledged watch manufacturers to continue this tradition, skeletonizing many of its superb movements – from the simplest to the most awe-inspiringly complex – for as JC Torres, CEO Vacheron Constantin say, “We have an obligation to conserve and encourage the often centuries-old arts and crafts that define both Genevan watchmaking and the heritage of Vacheron Constantin evolving them into timeless masterpieces for the benefit of future generations”.

THE ART OF THE MINUTE REPEATER
Despite technological progress, the minute repeater is still the greatest challenge a master watchmaker can face. Each one is unique in its decoration, its sound and its history. Vacheron Constantin draws on all its expertise in the outstanding tradition of Genevan Fine Watchmaking – a dazzling demonstration of an art form beyond the reach of normal man.

Over its 250 years Vacheron Constantin has built up unrivalled expertise and heritage. After more than two centuries of excellence the fabulous and mysterious Minute Repeater continues to epitomize the highest expression of the art of complications at Vacheron Constantin – and the alliance of passion and precision. The graceful chimes of this grande complication watch punctuate each moment, while its delightful music smoothes over time – at the same time measuring it.

In the late nineteen-eighties Vacheron Constantin decided to focus attention on creating a new Minute Repeater. The company patiently disassembled a nineteen-forties wristwatch and imagined a new Minute Repeater, drawing up plans, buying machines and tools, and most importantly putting together a team that could bring such a marvel to life. After four years of research and endless hard work, in 1993 the company unveiled its first piece, the caliber 1755, in honor of the year Vacheron Constantin was founded and it is this – the exceptional final series of the caliber 1755 – that is to be found in the Platinum Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater watch.

Assembled from over 330 parts, its movement is barely 3.30 mm thick, making it the slimmest in the world. Achieving this means juxtaposing traditional, time-honored methods and contemporary state-of-the-art techniques. Cutting, piercing, engraving, polishing, assembling, adjusting… so many essential stages, each masterpiece taking at least 320 hours to complete, each one a painstaking labor of love. A genuine tribute to the watchmaker's art, this exceptional timepiece calls on the extraordinary expertise of Vacheron Constantin's master craftsmen. A work of art in its own right, each of the parts that make up the mechanism and case is handcrafted. The result is an instrument with the purest possible sound – a sound enhanced by the sapphire crystal of its case back and dial. Press lightly, and its two gongs will strike the hours, quarters and minutes.

This hand-wound mechanical watch is fitted with an "all-or-nothing" mechanism, if the slide on the side of the case is not fully depressed, the mechanism is not fully armed and so the gongs will remain silent hence, …"all-or-nothing". In Minute Repeaters that are not equipped with this device, the chimes will be heard even when the slide is not sufficiently depressed but the number of strikes will be fewer than the actual time. This intelligent mechanism, invented in 1720, ensures the striking mechanism functions to the utmost accuracy.

The Vacheron Constantin caliber 1755 possesses two tones: the lower pitch marks the hours, the higher pitch the minutes, while an alternating high and low pitch chimes the quarter-hour. Each gong is patiently tuned by hand, while the slightest modification to the mechanism can influence the sonority of the watch. Not only must the watchmaker demonstrate an acute musical ear – the two gongs must be tuned to a fifth – the duration of each strike must also be perfectly precise: the chimes indicating four hours, three-quarters and four minutes must not exceed seven to eight seconds! It is clearly understandable why such perfection is a collector’s dream.

Vacheron Constantin naturally has a long tradition of creating beautiful platinum watches, which is why platinum was chosen for this very special watch. While platinum is rare –a beguiling treasure declared to be the only metal fit for kings – more rare is the Platinum Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater watch – made in only 15 examples. Platinum is a precious metal chosen when only the best is judged sufficiently good – a justly profound choice for the perfection for Les Cabinotiers Skeleton Minute Repeater model as the play of light on its spectacular components offset the intricacy and demanding expertise of this uniquely original piece.

Technical details
Reference: 30030/000P-8200

Movement
Caliber 1755 SQ, extra flat, manual winding
Movement thickness: 3.28 mm
Movement diameter: 30.8 mm
Indications: hours, minutes, repeating hours, quarters and minutes on demand
Rate frequency: 18,000 vpm
Movement jewelling: 30 jewels
Power reserve: 34 hours

Case, dial and strap
Case: Platinum 950; 37mm diameter soldered lugs, back case with sapphire crystal; Repeating slide on the case band at 9 o’clock
Dial: Sapphire glass, metallic deposition rose indexes, 18K oxidized black gold hands
Strap: Blue hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis leather
Buckle: 950 platinum

Limited edition
15 examples

Epos Watches - Brand Profile,History and Products

The origins of the EPOS Company date back to 1925. In that year, James Aubert formed his watch company in the Vallée de Joux, known as the centre of the mechanical watch world. James Aubert was an enthusiastic mechanical watch engineer, who dedicated his life to developing new watch mechanisms.

James Aubert SA in the Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura


James Aubert was a master of his art and spent most of his efforts focusing on technical developments of chronographs and minute repeaters. He had first acquired his skills working as an engineer for the former watch movement manufacturers “Valjoux” and “Landeron“.



In the true watchmakers’ tradition, he handed down his knowledge to his nephew Jean Aubert and his son-in-law, Jean Fillon, who is still today the EPOS’ watch engineer in chief. In his workshop many of EPOS’ own developments for complicated watches were created in close cooperation with EPOS watchmakers. A few that could be named are the jumping hour, the power reserve indication, the big date, the regulator and the regulator with the phases of the moon.

In the early 80s, the success story of the traditional Swiss watch came to a standstill. The new quartz technology radically changed the face of the watch industry. Nobody wanted to produce mechanical watches any longer, with the notable exception of a few luxury brands.

Peter Hofer, a long-established expert in Swiss watchmaking, was one of the few who still believed in the future of the mechanical watch. With this vision, he and his wife Erna decided to form their own company in 1983: Montres EPOS SA. Their main assets were a passion for mechanical watches and a technical know-how in this field. Personal contacts with key people in watch workshops both in the Jura Mountains and the Vallée de Joux, as well as a vast knowledge of the global watch market, enabled Peter Hofer to quickly develop his own brand. From the very beginning, EPOS has been a mechanical brand with interesting innovations. For 20 years he remained faithful to his vision, developing stunning collections incorporating fascinating mechanisms, always in close cooperation with Jean Fillon.

In 2002 Peter Hofer looked for a successor who shared his passion for mechanical watches and was willing to take over and develop the EPOS business. Ursula Forster, who came from a watchmakers’ family, and her husband Tamdi, who also had great experience in the Swiss watchmaking industry, seemed to be the ideal solution.

Swiss perfection in every detail
Switzerland has gained a unique worldwide reputation over centuries, thanks to the pioneering spirit and sense of perfection of its watchmakers. EPOS’ mission is to be a guardian of these traditional values and high standards. EPOS watches are designed and developed with passion, manufactured with precision in the Jura Mountains and the Vallée de Joux workshops, and assembled with care in Grenchen, areas which have always been the most famous in the watchmaking heritage.

The heart of each EPOS watch is its mechanical movement. The basic mechanisms come from renowned Swiss manufacturers, which are then transformed by the EPOS watchmakers, who add special functions and stunning decorations. The new creations manufactured in Jean Fillon’s workshop, James Aubert SA, are based on historical vintage movements, which are no longer in production. Once completed, the movement is very carefully decorated, often by hand. Nearly all the EPOS models are equipped with a crystal caseback to allow its owner to admire the work. As a result, EPOS collections are greatly sought after by collectors and watch lovers.

EPOS offers high-quality mechanical watches with interesting functions but still at an affordable price. Finished with loving care, according to the traditional Swiss watchmakers’ heritage, they deserve to be called „Artistry in Watchmaking“.

Building of Montres Epos SA in Bienne, Switzerland.


Epos innovations
EPOS is especially proud of its in-house innovations. For instance, special functions such as the power reserve indication, the big date or the regulator with the phases of the moon were developed in Jean Fillon’s workshop, James Aubert SA. Such complicated mechanisms require considerable watchmaking skills, which turn each watch into a work of art. These in-house creations are made constructed either on basic calibres from Unitas or on the no longer produced movements from Peseux. Finally, the movement finish is individually made and often includes a hand-made engraving.

Hundertwasser pocket watch


Milestones
1987: Reintroduction of skeleton manual winding model on Calibre P. 7040 and UT 6497
1988:Development of a regulator module on Calibre P. 7046
1989:Development of a power reserve indication on Calibre P. 7046
1990:Reintroduction of skeleton automatic winding model on Calibre ETA 2892-2
1991: Development of a regulator module with the phases of the moon on Calibre P. 7046
89-92 :Development of the Hundertwasser pocket watch in collaboration with Edition MANUS
1997:Development of a full calendar with the phases of the moon module on Calibre UT 6497
2000:Development of a big date on Calibre UT 6497
2002:Development of a date-pointer and small second hand at 8 o’clock on Calibre ETA 2824
2003:Reintroduction ref. 3340 Edition Antiquité with historical 8-day movement with new case
2004:Winner of the „Goldenen Unruh“ for ref. 3340 Edition Antiquité
2005:Introduction of ref. 3375 “One Minute Flying Tourbillon”

Official website:www.epos.ch

Sinn Frankfurt Financial District Watch Collection - New Models

These watches are distinguished by their connection with Frankfurt am Main, the internationally renowned banking and stock exchange center and the home of Sinn Watch company since 1961. Thus it is only logical that the brand expresses its affiliation with the city in beautiful, high-performance models that appeal to international wearers, especially with the display of several time zones.

Models 6000, 6030:The Frankfurt Financial District Watch. Those who maintain international business relationships need to keep an eye on all relevant time zones, whether in Frankfurt, New York or Dubai. The Frankfurt Financial District series meets this challenge with uncompromising functionality. Crisis-proof and of lasting value.

• 6000 rose gold: Case made of 18-carat rose gold, DIAPAL technology, 3 time zones
• 6000: Display of three time zones, exquisitely decorated movement with an engraving on the rotor of the Frankfurt skyline, highly polished stainless steel case
• 6030: Display of three time zones, exquisitely decorated movement with an engraving on the rotor of the "Bull and Bear", highly polished stainless steel case
- Doubly sealed crown and push-piece
- Pressure-resistant to 10 bar (= 100 m water depth)
- Galvanized black dial with rhodanized appliqués
- Case back made of sapphire crystal.

Models 6036, 6060:The Frankfurt Fiancial District Watch VI and the Frankfurt World Time Watch.In the world's financial centers, the traditional virtues such as punctuality, quality-consciousness and reliability are still in demand today. These are symbolized by the Frankfurt Fiancial District watches with their galvanized dial, three time zones and finely engraved rotor.

- Display of three time zones
- Case made of polished stainless steel
- Doubly sealed crown
- Pressure-resistant to 10 bar (= 100 m water depth)
- Galvanized black dial with rhodanized appliqués
- Sapphire crystal glass with anti-refl ective coating on both sides
- Exquisitely decorated movement with an engraving on the rotor of the "Bull and Bear"

Models 6033, 6066:The Frankfurt Financial District Watch V and the Frankfurt Financial District Alarm Watch.Good looks paired with inner value - this is the secret behind their international success. Both models are shock-resistant, anti-magnetic, waterproof, and resistant to pressure extremes.

• 6033: Display of two time zones, sophisticated movement with an engraving on the rotor of the "Bull and Bear"
• 6066: Alarm function, display of 3 time zones, sophisticated movement with an engraving on the rotor of a bell and "Frankfurt am Main"
- Case made of polished stainless steel
- Doubly sealed crown
- Pressure-resistant to 10 bar (= 100 m water depth)
- Galvanized black dial with rhodanized appliqués
- Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Rose Gold

LAUNCHED IN 2006,Vacheron Constantin rose gold Malte Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater , a limited edition complication wristwatch incorporates the last 30 exceptional Caliber 1755s. In 1992, Vacheron Constantin created a limited edition of 200 Caliber 1755 Minute Repeaters.

The last remaining 30 having been put aside for this, a very special complication among grand complications – the hand-wound Malte Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater in 18K rose gold. Destined to be much sought after by aficionados of the brand, this epitomé of Haute Horlogerie truly evokes the more than 250 years of tradition and expertize which endorse the values of the House of Vacheron Constantin.

A MASTERPIECE OF PURE TIMEKEEPING
Not just a grand complication more a masterpiece of pure timekeeping – the new polished rose gold Malte Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater is a ‘must’ for any collector of technical watchmaking masterpieces. An historic complication bearing all the hallmarks of its Malte heritage, including its mechanical hand-wound mechanism, it carries a superbly contemporary look thanks to its slightly larger 41mm diameter and ample easy-to-read, exquisite silvered “Vieux Panier” hand-guilloched 18K rose gold dial.

The 18K rose gold fan-shaped hands confidently calculate the passing hours and minutes, the hours being indicated by traditional Roman numerals and pyramidal indexes in applied 18K rose gold. Subdials with blued steel hands indicate date and days of the week at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively and a larger 48-month subdial, with inner subdial indicating the position in the leap-year cycle, is situated at 12 o’clock. At 6 o’clock elegant polished rose gold moon phases pass tranquilly over a lapis lazuli blue sky.

The overall harmony of the silvered hand-guilloched rose gold dial and the case in 18K polished rose gold stand as a timekeeping statement, masterly representing the art of the grand complication with the minute repeater striking mechanism repeating slide smoothly positioned on the side of the case at 9 o’clock. Proud of the superb workmanship of its master craftsmen, and in the certain knowledge that this is a watch that is bound to appeal to the true connoisseurs of grand complications, Vacheron Constantin offers us a final opportunity to truly appreciate its superb caliber 1755 handcrafted movement through a large sapphire anti-reflective crystal in the case back.

CALIBER 1755
When, after more than 200 years of research and commitment to their passion, Vacheron Constantin presented their caliber 1755 to the world, they named it in honor of the year of the company’s founding. It was based on a celebrated 1940s wristwatch movement, which they had lovingly and painstakingly taken apart and analyzed. Today the movement exemplifies the rich traditions Vacheron Constantin have skillfully preserved throughout its quarter millennium – the highest expression of the art of complications.

The mechanism is infinitely small, an alliance of passion and precision, of the visible and the invisible. Complex, the most sophisticated of watch complications – a minute repeating perpetual calendar – it is one that will forever please, with its melodic yet subtle dual tones: the lower pitch marking the hours, the higher pitch the minutes, while an alternating high and low pitch chimes the quarter-hour.

Expertly hand-tuned, since the slightest modification to the mechanism can influence its purity, the mechanism demands that the watchmaker demonstrates not only his master watchmaking abilities but also an acute musical ear – the duration of each strike must be perfectly precise: since the chimes indicating four hours, three-quarters and four minutes must not exceed seven to eight seconds! Made up of over 330 perfectly hand-finished parts it is fitted with an "all-or-nothing" mechanism that ensures the striking mechanism always functions to the utmost accuracy.

DESTINED TO BE MUCH SOUGHT AFTER
Vacheron Constantin pays particular attention to the finish of these watches. The passionate watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin, for whom technicality and beauty are of equal consequence, decorate, chamfer, finish the parts to perfection – including the coveted côtes de Genève – hand-working each stage with the utmost delicacy, scrutinizing every fraction of a millimeter of metal under the watchmaker's loupe, making these complications – the last remaining 30 caliber 1755 incorporated in this hand-wound 18K rose gold Malte Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater – destined to be much sought after by connoisseurs of the grand complication.

Technical details
Reference: 30040/000R-9090

Movement
Caliber 1755 QP, Mechanical, manual winding
Movement thickness: 4.90 mm
Movement diameter: 30.80 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: 34 hours

Indications
Hour, minutes, perpetual calendar, day of the week, 48-month display and bissextile cycle, moon phases, repeating hours, quarters and minutes on demand

Case
18K pink gold 5N, Ø 41mm
Back: Transparent, sapphire crystal

Dial
Silvered “Vieux Panier” hand guilloché 18K rose gold dial, moon phase in lapis lazuli and 18K gold, applied Maltese Cross in 18K pink gold

Strap
Brown alligator leather
Clasp: Folding clasp in 18K pink gold 5N, half Maltese Cross

Edition
Limited Edition of 30 pieces

Bedat & Co exhibition in Hong Kong 7-17 October 2009

Swiss luxury watch brand Bedat & Co confirms its legitimacy and leadership in feminine designs and reinforces its presence in Asian markets. Following a strong appearance of the Brand in Baselworld 2009 and in the JCK Vegas Show, with an unprecedented support to its business partners in the current economic difficulties, the 100% Swiss company prepares a great manifestation in Hong Kong uber-luxury Landmark Mall from October 7th until October 17th.

During a 10 days exhibition, the main hall of the luxury mall will be transformed into an elegant display, dedicated to the Swiss artisan. Watch connoisseurs will be invited to special previews throughout the week. Bedat & Co, who prides itself as being the pioneer in the art of setting diamonds on steel, promises to range the most intricate yet beautiful feminine designs, reflecting the timeless and avant-garde Art Deco spirit.

Thanks to the unswerving collaboration with the best ateliers of the Jura Valley, the brand has the highest standards of craftsmanship, stamped with the A.O.S.C1 label, the utmost symbol and guarantee of quality and ethics certifying the Swiss origin of all components.

The brand’s commercial development is highly stimulated even in such economic context: expanding its already strong retail network with successful openings across Asia in China, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan and Thailand, as well as the first unique stand-alone Boutique in the world renowned epicentre of fine haute horlogerie in Starhill Gallery Malaysia; in addition to the prime Shop-In-Shop presence within the premises of Lane Crawford of Beijing and Hong Kong.

Today, Bedat & Co is pleased to experience rewarding success and enthusiasm from retailers. The brand is determined to show appreciation to all its defenders by organising more special efforts and manifestations in Asia this autumn.

Monday, September 28, 2009

D. Dornblüth & Sohn Watches - Brand Info

Dornblüth & Sohn is an independent & traditional German watch company jointly operated by master watchmaker Dieter Dornblüth & his son Dirk Dornblüth.

It all started on a gloomy November evening in 1959. The city of Chemnitz should be named Karl-Marx-Stadt for another 30 years, when the watchmaker Dieter Dornblüth from the village of Salzwedel, Saxony-Anhalt, designed his first own movement in a furnished room. For three years he went to the Erzgebirge to expand his horological knowledge. He had been occupied by an almost lost case for some time: a sterling silver pocket watch with an extra large eccentric second display and a sturdy movement of high quality. During his long repair job, Dornblüth became so fond of this pocket watch that he was rather sad when its owner came to pick it up on that particular November day.

That same evening, Dornblüth sat down and started designing a sturdy wristwatch movement in the image of the pocket watch he just had to give away, without giving too much consideration to its height and diameter. He had just finished his plans and the first wheels sat in place on the plate already, when the freshly appointed master watchmaker was called to Kalbe, Saxony-Anhalt, to take over the abandoned watchmaker business of Elsa and Paul Beckmann.

The dream of his own Dornblüth caliber vanished in one of the drawers of a workbench. Daily routine work and the success of the repair shop that soon grew to seven employees made it impossible for Dieter Dornblüth to follow up on the plan of creating an own movement. Until October 1st, 1999, when Dieter Dornblüth celebrated his 60th birthday, Dieter’s son, Dirk Dornblüth, already master watchmaker himself, presented a stainless steel wristwatch that he had created all by himself, with its movement based on the legendary Glashütte caliber 60.3. So great was the pleasure that the father revealed the story about his long forgotten plans of an own movement which he had kept to himself for the last 40 years. That same evening father and son started to sketch out the design of a possible base caliber on a paper napkin. This way, the father’s vision from 1959 was brought back to life again.

With the Dornblüth calibers, father and son prove that own ideas in the art of watchmaking do not necessarily need sophisticated CNC technique, but that even today passionate and dedicated watchmakers can create own handcrafted precision watches using only traditional tools and machines.However, this requires a limitation in quantity: the monthly output of the Dornblüth manufacture will not exceed more than a few pieces per month.

This is made up for by the outstanding features of the Dornblüth movements:-
Characteristic 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour • Glucydur screw balance with Nivarox-1-spring • swan-neck fine adjustment on the hand-engraved balance cock • solid three-quarter plate • screwed gold chatons • retracting ratchetmechanism, with large flat polished large spring and click • double sunburst finish on the crown wheels • yellow gold engraving of manufactory name and number from the registry book.

When both watchmakers planned the design of the sturdy caliber, their eyes were caught by an empty space opposite the small second near numeral „9”. What could be done to balance out this one-sided dial and give the face of the watch a somewhat more harmonic look? While leafing through old auction catalogs, the young master got the idea to integrate a power reserve display near numeral „3”. Moreover the watchmakers wanted to avoid the distorted indication of the winding state, which was prevailing in the common power reserve indicators, due to their planetary differential with too many wheels.



But how could this indication be integrated into the almost finished movement all by keeping its external dimensions? The Father Dornblüth found the solution for this issue when, waiting for his car to be repaired, he looked at the small engine models in a showcase of the local garage. Since his reflections were especially stimulated by the model of a differential gear from a car’s rear axle, he asked the owner of the garage if he could borrow it for some days. Back home, he and his son puzzled over the question how this bevel gear differential could serve as a model for the construction of the power reserve indicator. The result was a three-wheel mechanism no higher than 2.98 mm, which could then be used for the power reserve indicator, also called »Up-and-Down« display. The meshing of only a few wheels leads to a very reduced mechanical friction and thus allows an extremely precise indication of the mainspring’s actual winding state.The Caliber 99.2 was born.


Official website: www.dornblueth.com

David Yurman - The Classic - Men's Watch Collection

David Yurman presents "The Classic"- a collection of fine and classic mechanical timepieces for men.The current collection consists of Chronograph,Moonphase and 3 hands models.

CHRONOGRAPH: The CLASSIC™ Chronograph, is a statement of artistry featuring a 46 mm stainless steel case with integrated cable design and an engraved crown that houses a Swiss automatic Dubois-Dépraz 2050 movement, ETA 2824-2 base with a 40 hour power reserve, 49 jewels, and water resistance up to 3atm/100 feet.
The sapphire crystal has a double-sided anti-reflective coating and the exhibition case back displaying the custom skeleton rotor has also been applied with an anti-reflective coating. The double layered dial has an outside guilloché zone, an opaline center, applied indexes and Arabic numerals available in black and anthracite. Assorted matte alligator straps with a buffalo lining are available with a custom stainless steel deployant clasp, double pushers and the David Yurman logo.

MOON PHASE: The CLASSIC™ Moon Phase, a new complication for David Yurman, features a 43.5mm stainless steel (also available in 18K white gold) case with integrated cable design and an engraved crown that houses a Swiss automatic Dubois-Dépraz 9000 movement, ETA 2892-2 base with a 40 hour power reserve, 21 jewels, and water resistance up to 3atm/100 feet. The functions include a day and month window, date hand, and moon phase display.
The sapphire crystal has a double-sided anti-reflective coating, and the exhibition case back displaying the custom skeleton rotor has also been applied with an anti-reflective coating. The double layered dial has an outside guilloché zone, an opaline center, applied indexes and Arabic numerals available in silver or brown in a stainless steel case and silver in a white gold case. Assorted matte alligator straps with a buffalo lining are available with a custom stainless steel deployant clasp, double pushers and the David Yurman logo in steel (also available with a custom 18K white gold ardillon buckle with the DY logo in the white gold version.

THREE HAND: The CLASSIC™ Three Hand features a 43.5mm stainless steel case with integrated cable design and an engraved crown that houses a Swiss automatic ETA 2892-2 movement with a 42 hour power reserve, 21 jewels, and water resistance up to 3atm/100 feet.
The sapphire crystal has a double-sided anti-reflective coating, and the exhibition case back displaying the custom skeleton rotor has also been applied with an anti-reflective coating. The double layered dial has an outside guilloché zone, an opaline center, applied indexes and Arabic numerals available in black, anthracite, silver or brown. Assorted matte alligator straps with a buffalo lining are available with a custom stainless steel deployant clasp, double pushers and the David Yurman logo.

David Yurman has also unveiled an iPhone Application, allowing consumers to stay chic and fashion-forward on the go. The application, which can be downloaded free from the iTunes App Store, provides shoppers with another way to interact with the David Yurman brand. Consumers can browse the latest collections, explore images in stunning close-up detail, and even purchase directly from the iPhone by connecting to a David Yurman personal shopper. Additional features include campaign videos, a David Yurman boutique locator, the ability to share picks with a friend and downloadable wallpaper.

Dornblüth & Sohn Ref Cal 99.0 Watch Collection

The caliber 99.0 is the variant on the movements of the 99-family, reduced to its essentials. As to craftsmanship, the same quality standards were kept for the three-hands movement with the small off-center second display as for the original Dornblüth movement, its big brother caliber 99.2.

Details of movement
diameter: 37 mm • height: 4.4 mm • 18 rubies • power reserve 50 hours (+/-5%) • 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour • roségold plated three-quarter plate with yellow gold hand-graving of manufactory name and serial number • Geneva stripe finish • retracing ratchet • double sunburst finish on the crown wheels.

Model Variations:
Ref 99.0(1)ST:-Dial : sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches • numerals and indexes numerals with black print • small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”;Case :solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished;Hands • steel, hand-polished and heatblued;Strap • real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched.

Ref 99.0(1)RG:-Case : solid 18kt / 750 - rose gold, polished / burnished ;Dial:sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches • numerals and indexes numerals with black print • small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”;Hands:steel, hand-polished and heatblued;Strap:real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched.

Ref 99.0(2)ST:-Case : solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished;Dial : sterling silver, matte black finished • numerals and indexes numerals with white print • hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova • small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”;Hands :white, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material Strap :real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched.

Ref 99.0(2)RG:-Case : solid 18kt / 750 - rose gold, polished / burnished;Dial : sterling silver, matte black finished • numerals and indexes numerals with white print • hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova • small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”;Hands : white, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material;Strap : real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

Tokyo Flash Riki Watanabe Limited Edition Watch Collection

Tokyo Flash presents Watches designed by Japanese designer Riki Watanabe, in limited edition colors, this petite time piece is ideal for smaller wrists and is a beautifully created wrist watch. With a round face and deep case, the numbers are raised on the moulded plastic and set beneath a lens to create an all together original look. Simple in function and design there are three variations available; diamond black, lime green and orange. The colored leather strap contrasts perfectly with the face. Approximate price is around $110.

Technical details
Displays the time
Maximum wrist size: 180 mm (approx.)
Case Dimensions: 25 mm x 25 mm x 10 mm
Weight: 15 grams
Water resistance: 3ATM
Japanese instructions
One year manufacturers warranty

Dornblüth & Sohn Ref Cal 99.2 Watch Collection

The Caliber 99.2 is the first movement that was developed in the Dornblüth manufactory. With its three-wheel bevel gear mechanism and its subsidiary second driven indirectly below the train, it forms the basis of all Dornblüth Ref 99.2 watches.
Movement details
Movement :diameter: 37 mm • height: 4.4 mm • 20 rubies • power reserve indicator by means of the bevel gear differential • oversized eccentric second display, indirectly driven below the train by means of an intermediate gear, with friction spring and cantilevered second pinion • power reserve 50 hours (+/- 5%) • 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour • rose gold three-quarter plate with • yellow gold hand-graving of manufactory name and serial number • Geneva stripe finish • retracing ratchet • double sunburst finish on the crown wheels.

Model Variations
REF. CAL. 99.2 (1) ST
Dial: Sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches • numerals and indexes numerals with black print • power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock” • oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished
Hands: Steel, hand-polished and heat-blued
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

REF. CAL. 99.2 (1) RG
Dial: Sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches • numerals and indexes numerals with black print • power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock” • oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid 18kt / 750 - rose gold, polished / burnished
Hands: Steel, hand-polished and heat-blued
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

REF. CAL. 99.2 (2) ST
Dial: Sterling silver, matte black finished • numerals and indexes numerals with white print • hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova • power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock” • oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished
Hands: White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

REF. CAL. 99.2 (2) RG
Dial: Sterling silver, matte black finished • numerals and indexes numerals with white print • hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova • power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock” • oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid 18kt / 750 - rose gold, polished / burnished
Hands: White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched.

Mido All Dial Chronometer Chronograph

MIDO ALL DIAL Chronometer Chronograph, or the perfect alliance of timeless design and the spirit of sport. The new automatic chronograph developed by Mido once again embodies the original concept of the line, the principle followed by the Roman architects when they built the Coliseum. But this Chronograph stands out from the previous model by its polished steel case, with an enlarged 44mm diameter, and a dial enhanced by many details specially developed by Mido. It reflects on the wearer’s wrist the commitment to the highest Swiss certified precision, in an exclusive and contemporary expression of time.

Time and sport are close partners. In the field of watchmaking and sports competitions alike, dependability and precision of movement are the ultimate performance guarantees. Timing must therefore remain perfect at all times and under all circumstances. For its part, Mido meets the highest possible standards in the manufacture of this model by fitting a COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) certified self-winding chronometer movement, this being the highest official standard of precision in Switzerland.

Today, the latest ALL DIAL Chronometer Chronograph model adds a sporty dimension to the spirit of the collection. As in the case of the other models in this line, its incomparable design is founded on observation of one of the most celebrated monuments of Roman antiquity, the Coliseum. Styled according to the same ingenious concept, the new chronograph by Mido not only allows perfect reading of the time by occupying the largest possible space on the dial but also embodies a timeless and distinctive style.

The stainless steel case features the same typical harmony of existing models, while the dial adds exceptional new characteristics. At 9 o’clock, the small seconds disk turns and counts the seconds by the position of a small signal, an unusual way of watching the sixty seconds unfurl. Two indexes in fine-brushed metal are elegantly screwed on to the dial itself.

The dial is surrounded by a flange incorporating the tachometer scale. The diamond polished HM hands have the added advantage of SuperLuminova treatment. The date and day apertures are located at the three o’clock position. The dial is protected by an anti-reflecting sapphire crystal treated on both sides. This timepiece engraved with an eight digit serial number has a transparent case back through which the high precision selfwinding movement can be admired.

The movement itself is finely decorated and enhanced on the oscillating weight by Geneva stripes and the engraved Mido logo. The watch is fitted with the Incabloc and Nivacourbe shock-absorber systems, and Nivaflex mainspring – with a screw down back and crown, water-resistant up to 100 meters. Worn on a rubber strap with a folding clasp and 2 push-pieces, the new MIDO ALL DIAL Chronometer Chronograph is intended for connoisseurs who appreciate precision and elegance with a sporty pace.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical chronograph with automatic and manual winding. Mido caliber 1320 (based on ETA Valjoux 7750), 13¼’’’, Ø30.00 mm, height: 7.90 mm, 25 jewels, 28’000 A/H, INCABLOC and NIVACOURBE shock-absorber systems, gilt GLUCYDUR balance, ANACHRON balance spring, NIVAFLEX NM mainspring. Finely decorated Chronometer (COSC certified) movement with blued screws, circular-gained bars, oscillating weight with Geneva stripes and engraved Mido logo. 48 hours power reserve. Adjusted on 5 different positions for a high accuracy, attested by chronometer (COSC) certificate.

Functions
HMs + Chrono + Day + Date
Time: Hour and minute hands, small second hand at ‘9’
Chrono: 60-second chronograph from center, 30-minute counter at ‘12’ and 12-hour counter at ‘6’
Day-Date: Day and date indicator at ‘3’

Case
Stainless steel 316L (DIN X2CrNiMo 17 14 3), 2 parts, domed anti-reflecting sapphire crystal treated on both sides, screwed crown and case back, transparent case back to see the fine decorated Chronometer (COSC certified) movement, 8-digit engraved serial number, water-resistant up to 100 meters

Strap
Rubber strap with a stainless steel folding clasp and two push-pieces

Dial
Logo and indexes individually applied
Hands: Hour and minute hands with black and Super-LumiNova® lines for easy readability in the dark

Mido Multifort Chronograph Automatic

It was in 1934 that the watchmaker Mido (Swatch Group) first launched its Multifort collection. This was the age of the streamline design trend in the United States, taking its inspiration from aerodynamic styling especially in the use of steel for manufacturing purposes for trains, airplanes but also objects of everyday use. Back to the roots of this collection, Mido commemorates the 75th jubilee of the Multifort by designing new models paying tribute to this streamline period of the last century.

Every age has its own challenges and innovations. The launch of streamlined styling shortly after the birth of industrial design in 1929 was a major turning point in product creation. From now on the focus was on aerodynamic lines and pragmatic ergonomics, while making extensive use of steel and material treatments which enabled certain natural constraints to be mastered and aesthetic standards met. Led by Georges Schaeren, the engineers and technicians at Mido developed the Multifort in 1934.

Dependable, robust and resistant with real allure, these qualities made it a reference for rigour and high standards as soon as it was launched on the . That is why GIs were only too happy to sport this watch, some even going so far as to express their great satisfaction in fine handwritten letters addressed to the company’s head office. These can still be seen in the Mido archives today.

The new Multifort, and more particularly its chronograph model featuring an ETA Valjoux 7750 movement with many refined details and subtle features, clearly confirms the watchmaker’s liking for that age. With a diameter of 44 mm, a thickness of 14.50 mm and water-resistance to 100 m, the new Multifort is immediately defined as a significant model. But it is also a model which sets great store by aesthetic quality.

Under the sapphire crystal, thedial with its Geneva stripes or wave pattern decoration explores the concept of streamlining. The work done by the Mido design department is clearly visible in its highly successful evocation of the huge plates of steel fitted on the sides of US locomotives. Their fixing rivets are also recalled by the indexes on this watch and the use of applied chapters to mark the quarters. The refined use of Super-LumiNova enables the time to be seen clearly on the dial even after nightfall.

Lovers of luxury watchmaking will also enjoy the opportunity to admire the magic of a self-winding movement manufactured to the highest standards through the mineral crystal fitted on the case back. They will also surely appreciate the oscillating weight with its Geneva stripes decoration, the blued screws and finely circular grained bridges.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical chronograph movement with automatic or manual winding. Mido calibre 1320 (based on ETA Valjoux 7750), 13 1/4’’’ Æ30.00 mm, height 7.90 mm, 25 jewels, 28,800 A/H, INCABLOC and NIVACOURBE shock-absorbers, gilt GLUCYDUR balance, ANACHRON balance-spring, NIVAFLEX NM main. Top and finely decorated movement with blued screws, circular-gained bars, oscillating weight with Geneva stripes and engraved Mido logo. Power reserve 48 hours. Adjusted on 5 different positions for a high accuracy

Functions
HMs + Chrono + Day + Date
Watch: hour and minute hands. Small second indicator at 9 o’clock
Chrono: 60 second counter from centre, 30 minute counter at 12 o’clock and 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock
Day and date at 3 o’clock

Case
Stainless steel 316L (DINX2CrNiMO 17 14 3), 2 parts, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, screwed crown and caseback, transparent case back to see the fine decorated and top movement, 8-digit engraved serial number, water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Strap
Genuine calf leather strap with crocodile look and stainless steel folding clasp

Dial
Geneva stripes, indexes with Super-Luminova®
Hands: Hour and minute hands with Super-Luminova® for easy reading under water and at night

SINN Diving Watch Collection Catalog (2009-10)

SINN was the first company to manufacture diving watches that complied with European diving equipment standards, and the first to test and certify them for pressure resistance, water-tightness and resistance to fogging. The technical development of diving watches is one of the greatest challenges for engineers and watchmakers, because these timepieces must be absolutely waterproof, perfectly readable in all lighting and water conditions and extremely durable. Sinn watches are the ideal mission timers.

Models U1000, U1000 S, U1000 SDR
A diver needs equipment that is 100% reliable. SINN manufactures watches that meet the toughest safety standards for use at great depths. From certified materials to SINN's own proprietary technologies, its watches offer everything divers need.

  • Tested based on European diving equipment standards.
  • Pressure-resistant to 1,000 m diving depth
  • Made of completely seawater-resistant German submarine steel
  • Captive diver's bezel with guard against unintended displacement
  • Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating
  • dehumidifying technology for enhanced freedom from fogging
  • Functions reliably at temperatures between –45 ºC and +80 ºC thanks to SINN Special Oil 66-228
  • Chronograph functions can be actuated up to the nominal pressure (100 bar) even when wearing diving gloves
Model Variations
  1. Model U1000 with solid bracelet with TEGIMENT technology. A watch with a distinctive character. (Case diameter approximately 44 mm)
  2. Model U1000 SDR has a solid bracelet with TEGIMENT technology and diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology and black hard coating. (Case diameter approximately 44 mm)
  3. Model U1000 S with silicone strap.(Case diameter approximately 44 mm)
Germanischer Lloyd confirms and certifies the pressure resistance of Sinn U1000 to a diving depth of 1,000 meters as well as temperature resistance and function based on EN 250 and EN 14143, the European standards for diving equipment.

Models U1, U1 SDR
The diving watch made of German submarine steel.Perfect readability, even in murky water. Easy adjustment of the rotating bezel, even with gloves. Robust, waterproof and pressure resistant, even in extreme conditions. It's no wonder that so many professionals place their trust in diving watches made by SINN. After all, they were designed especially for tough assignments.

  • Tested based on European diving equipment standards and certified by Germanischer Lloyd in Hamburg
  • Pressure-resistant to 1,000 m diving depth, certified by Germanischer Lloyd in Hamburg
  • Case made of German submarine steel
  • Completely seawater-resistant
  • Captive diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology
  • Sapphire crystal glass with state-of-the-art anti-reflective coating technology
  • Clean, distinctive design

Model Variations
  1. Model U1 with matching solid bracelet.(Case diameter approximately 44 mm)
  2. Model U1 with silicone strap. (Case diameter approximately 44 mm)
  3. Model U1 SDR with diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology and black hard coating. (Case diameter approximately 44 mm)
 Germanischer Lloyd confirms and certifies the pressure resistance of Sinn U1 to a diving depth of 1,000 meters as well as temperature resistance and function based on EN 250 and EN 14143, the European standards for diving equipment.

Models U2, U2 S, U2 SDR (EZM 5)
The mission timer made of German submarine steel.Built to ensure absolute reliability even at the greatest depths. The U2 series takes all the familiar advantages of the SINN diving watches to an entirely new level. Reliable at depths up to 2,000 meters. Equipped with a second time zone. Functions reliably at temperatures between –45 and +80 °C. Confirmed and certified.

  • Certified based on the European standards for diving devices
  • Pressure-resistant to 2,000 m diving depth
  • Made of completely seawater-resistant German submarine steel
  • Captive diver's bezel
  • Sapphire crystal glass with anti-refl ective coating technology
  • dehumidifying technology to ensure enhanced freedom from fogging
  • Functions reliably at temperatures between –45 ºC and +80 ºC thanks to SINN Special Oil 66-228
  • Second time zone with a 24-hour clock
Model Variations
  1. U2: Diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology
  2. U2 S: Case, crown and solid bracelet with black hard coating and TEGIMENT technology
  3. U2 SDR: Diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology and black hard coating

Germanischer Lloyd confirms and certifies the pressure resistance of Sinn U2 to a diving depth of 1,000 meters as well as temperature resistance and function based on EN 250 and EN 14143, the European standards for diving equipment.

Models UX GSG 9 (EZM 2B), UX (EZM 2B)
Developed to withstand extreme situations in which absolute precision and reliability are crucial. A UX unites the most innovative technologies with the most resistant materials. Typical diving watches by SINN.

  • Tested based on European diving equipment standards and certified by Germanischer Lloyd, Hamburg
  • Pressure resistance of the movement to 5,000 m and of the case to 12,000 m diving depth has been tested and certified
  • Reflection-free under water thanks to HYDRO technology, readable from any angle and completely free from fogging
  • Completely seawater-resistant to German submarine steel
  • Captive diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology
  • Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating
  • Temperature-stabilized chronometer quartz movement, functions reliably at temperatures between –20 °C and +60 °C
 Model Variations
  1. UX (EZM 2B): Crown at right at 4 o'clock
  2. UX GSG 9 (EZM 2B): Crown at left at 10 o'clock. Official service watch of the GSG 9 Maritime Unit
  3. UX SDR, UX SDR GSG 9: Diver's bezel with TEGIMENT technology and black hard coating

Germanischer Lloyd confirms and certifies the pressure resistance of Sinn UX to a diving depth of 5,000 (or 12,000) meters as well as temperature resistance and function based on EN 250 and EN 14143, the European standards for diving equipment.

Model EZM 3
No other watch offers a longer list of innovations. The EZM 3 incorporates a mechanical movement protected by state-of-the-art SINN technologies against moisture diffusing from the air, extreme pressure or the influence of magnetic fields. Free from fogging, temperature- resistant and reliable.

  • Tested based on European diving equipment standards and certified by Germanischer Lloyd, Hamburg
  • Pressure-resistant to 500 m diving depth, certified by Germanischer Lloyd, Hamburg
  • Bead-blasted stainless steel case
  • Diver's bezel
  • Magnetic field protection up to 80,000 A/m
  • dehumidifying technology for enhanced freedom from fogging
  • Functions reliably at temperatures from –45 °C to +80 °C thanks to SINN Special Oil 66-228
  • Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Germanischer Lloyd confirms and certifies the pressure resistance of Sinn EZM 3 to a diving depth of 500 meters as well as temperature resistance and function based on EN 250 and EN 14143, the European standards for diving equipment.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Patrimony Contemporaine Pocket Watch

Preserving the best from each era and consistently capturing the signs of the times: such is the infinitely delicate responsibility of the designers, master-watchmakers, engineers and artisans of Vacheron Constantin, as they shape creations destined to generate emotions as enduring as those aroused by the discovery of the first pocket watch made by Jean-Marc Vacheron and dated circa 1755.

Throughout its exceptional history characterised by the exploration of countless different paths, in step with current trends and fashions but also guided by its own creative instinct, Vacheron Constantin has consistently distinguished itself – as its historical heritage vividly illustrates – by the extraordinary production of pocket watches that are exceptional in terms of their complications, decorations, shapes…All of which means that today’s creations from Vacheron Constantin – worthy heirs to a proud legacy and tradition – continue to offer devotees of fine watches a deliberately classical style of contemporary elegance.

Since its origins in 1755, the year it was founded, the very soul of Vacheron Constantin has been permeated by the famous credo of its quest for excellence. The face will always reflect the soul, and the soul will always enshrine the timeless beauty of the face. This ageless secret is embodied in each creation by Vacheron Constantin.The pocket watch was originally created to facilitate people’s daily lives. They no longer needed to listen to the church bells or to check the clock at home or in the office in order to know the time. For the very first time, a powerful symbol of prestige as well as freedom, a watch followed its owner every where and became a source of inspiration for watchmakers who were able to use their know-how in making ever smaller movements designed to facilitate their use.

In the same way, while initially considered as vulnerable, pocket watches only remained so until technological breakthroughs enhanced their protection. Today, they can be made as watertight, accurate and user-friendly as wristwatches. These days everyone has pockets, which was not necessarily the case in days gone by, so there is now nothing to prevent someone indulging in this delightful folly.

Vacheron Constantin is revisiting its past and the golden age of the pocket watch by presenting a model featuring a pure, classic and timeless design, belonging to the Collection Excellence Platine and thus necessarily rare because issued in an extremely limited edition.While not succumbing to the current vintage craze, this pocket watch sets the tone for authentic contemporary dandyism. This spirit is embodied in the exquisitely refined gesture of removing from one’s pocket a splendidly understated model composed of the rarest and most precious of metals – platinum – distinguished by a density that admirably reflects its value.

This sensual timepiece with its gentle curves is equipped with the new mechanical proprietary Calibre 4400, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. This epitome of elegance is clothed in a navy blue leather pouch that slides on a leather cord or an original platinum-linked chain, according to personal preference. 21st century elegance is no longer all about wearing time on your sleeve…

In a decidedly modern twist, the pocket watch is promoted to the status of a beautiful and iconic object in its own right. Whether nestling in a pocket, hung around the neck or placed as a table-clock on a desk, it represents a wish to look at time differently rather than simply wearing it on the wrist.A completely different gesture... Holding a precious pocket watch in the palm of your hand, in order to take time to look at the time on its dial, has once again become an infinitely elegant gesture. A keen awareness of passing time… A pocket watch is also a means of gaining another grip on time: it is held in the hand and thus offers another perception of time, involving a genuine feeling of reappropriating the moment in hand.

A multi-sensorial object…Released at last from the wrist and presented in a playful form thanks to its pouch and its leather cord or platinum chain, the pocket watch appeals to a variety of senses through its tactile, visual and auditory qualities.

For this first pocket watch in the Patrimony line, Vacheron Constantin once again offers devotees of fine watches the simplicity and elegance of a naturally classical style. The Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch created by Vacheron Constantin – issued in a limited edition of 50 individually numbered watches available exclusively in the Collection Excellence Platine – reflects a desire guided by the excellence of time-honoured expertise.

A voluptuously curved yet elegantly slender case in 950 platinum; a broad, beautifully restrained 950 platinum dial with a finely grained sandblasted finish reflecting the light with a gentle glow such as only platinum can offer; as well as 950 platinum baton-shaped hands gliding over delicately applied understated hour-markers: the exquisite metallic harmony of this creation contributes to its overall aesthetic equilibrium.

Inside this elegant exterior beats Calibre 4400, the new mechanical hand-wound mechanism representing the latest generation of proprietary movements and entirely designed, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin according to the highest standards of Geneva’s Grand watchmaking tradition. Its generous 28.50 mm diameter, magnified by the transparency of the sapphire crystal back, is perfectly suited to the equally liberally sized 43 mm case. Thanks to its large barrel, this calibre driving the solitary hour and minute hands is endowed with around 65 hours’ power reserve, corresponding to three full days. And since Vacheron Constantin consistently matches such understated simplicity with exceptional finishing, Calibre 4400 proudly bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

The Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch Collection Excellence Platine thus embodies a philosophy that has remained unchanged through 250 years of history, experience and expertise: an obsession for perfection at each stage in the conception of a watch, and in each and every second of the life of the person it so faithfully accompanies.

The obvious choice of precious metal when only the best or the most exclusive will do, platinum has inspired Vacheron Constantin to create its Collection Excellence Platine Limited Editions, in tribute to the distinctive properties and assets of this rare metal.Long considered the exclusive preserve of royalty and statesmen, now joined by collectors and exceptional individuals with refined tastes, platinum conveys a definite aura of prestige that elicits a sense of kinship among a distinguished elite of discerning connoisseurs. For them, owning a Vacheron Constantin timepiece from the Collection Excellence Platine grants them privileged access to one of the world’s most exclusive circles.

Each new and necessarily limited-edition Vacheron Constantin model identified as belonging to the Collection Excellence Platine features a solid platinum dial discreetly bearing the inscription “PT950”, along with platinum hands, case and crown, and is housed within a grey lacquered ashwood presentation box.

Vacheron Constantin watchmakers first began using platinum in 1820, and the Geneva-based manufacture has since employed this precious metal in many of its most complex and original creations.While 18-carat gold contains just 75% of the precious metal, platinum is 95% pure. Also much rarer than gold, it is found in an extremely small number of deposits worldwide, mainly in South Africa.Its density and its weight are far superior to other metals and make it a more durable material. This quality means that a tiny scratch on a platinum model merely displaces the metal, engendering only a minimal loss of material. An object in platinum therefore retains its full value, as befits a token of eternity. Moreover, it is not subject to oxidation and is thus not affected by the passing of time, making it a perfect lifelong companion.

In addition to its resistance and its density, platinum boasts another remarkable quality: its extreme malleability. It is indeed malleable to the point where a single gram of metal can be drawn out to form a thread stretching almost two kilometres. Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine specifically in order to highlight the distinctive qualities of this noble metal.

Technical details
Model: Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch Collection Excellence PlatineReference: 82028/000P-9490, Limited edition of 50 numbered pieces

Movement
Calibre 4400, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin, Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement: 2.8 mm
Diameter of movement: 28.50 mm
Jewels: 21 rubies
Frequency: 28'800 vibrations/hours
Indications: Hours and minutes
Power-reserve: Approx. 65 hours

Case
Platinum 950
43.00 mm diameter
Water-resistance:3 Bar, equivalent to 30 meters

Dial
Platinum 950
Finishing sand-blasted
« PT 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock

Chain
Delivered with an alligator leather cord, Length 30 cm
Platinum chain available on order, Length 30 cm

Gerald Genta Watches - Brand Info

Gérald Genta is well-known within the watchmaking world for its ability to combine exceptional mechanisms with daring and well-conceived designs. For the past 40 years it has been constantly challenging existing horological conventions.

Nowadays, Haute Horlogerie often displays a resolutely avant-garde approach. While Gérald Genta is undoubtedly one of the brands that distinguish themselves in this respect, it does so in its own inimitable way backed by 40 years of legitimacy. Boldness and innovation have been part of its genetic make-up from the very beginning, and maturity now renders these qualities more relevant and timely than ever.

The Manufacture Gérald Genta is located amid the stunning landscape of the Vallée de Joux, nestling between the striking and sometimes imposing premises of age-old Manufactures. While still youthful in comparison with the span of horological history, it is nonetheless well equipped to play in the big league thanks to its significant contribution to the rebirth of Haute Horlogerie.
From the time of founding of his company in 1969, Gérald Genta devoted himself wholeheartedly to expressing his personal vision of watchmaking. At the time, what was known as the quartz watch revolution was in full swing, shaking the Swiss watch industry to its very foundations. Centuries of mechanical horological expertise seemed liable to be swept away in a period when low-cost Asian-made quartz movements were clearly surpassing the performances of the finest timepieces made by the greatest Swiss manufacturers. Even famous brands experienced a severe drop in sales and were apparently helpless witnesses of the upheavals that looked likely to overturn traditional watchmaking values.

During the subsequent years, through cooperation with extraordinarily gifted and qualified specialists, the Manufacture Gérald Genta set up an Haute Horlogerie “think tank” that gave rise to complicated striking mechanisms, sophisticated calendar devices, tourbillon movements and various other complications. By associating a high degree of expertise with exceptional design, the brand almost single-handedly succeeded in bringing Haute Horlogerie back to its rightful centre-stage role.

Nonetheless, the creations emerging from the company workshops in Geneva or Le Brassus had an impact extending well beyond the mere rebirth of Haute Horlogerie. Right from the start, Gérald Genta watches were synonymous with bold design, with a break from traditions, and with daring and unprecedented associations of materials. It is this subtle association between excellent horological mechanisms and daring but perfectly balanced and conceived designs that has earned Gérald Genta its outstanding reputation.

Over the past two or three years, the image of luxury watches, formerly characterised by the conventional use of gold and other precious metals for the case, has undergone considerable change. Today, it is the complexity of the movement and the genius behind the concept that determine the value of a given timepiece in the eyes of passionate devotees. In 1969, this idea of viewing design and movement performances as essential luxury criteria simply did not exist.

A stroll through contemporary watch shows such as Baselworld or the SIHH, where the brands proudly display highly unusual and extremely innovative designs, is enough to demonstrate the importance of Gérald Genta, which did so much several decades ago to pave the way for such freedom of expression. By introducing a little touch of madness into the somewhat rigid mind-set of the watch industry in the 1970s, the brand literally revolutionised the way both public and professionals considered and experienced watchmaking.

Transforming the very essence of the company in order to prepare for the future: such was the mission entrusted to Gérald Roden. Along with his team of designers, movement conceptors and engineers, he has established a clear-cut vision of the future prospects for the Gérald Genta brand. Thanks to uncompromising respect for the corporate values, he has not only preserved the excellent reputation acquired throughout its first 30 years of existence, but has also succeeded in combining the Gérald Genta spirit with the technical developments of the contemporary world.

Collectors can rest assured regarding the continuity of the brand heritage, over which it jealously safeguards with typically Swiss precision. The creation of a new building right next to the existing premises on the Rue de la Gare, at the heart of the small town of Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux, is in itself a token of confidence in the company’s future. With a current production volume of 3,000 watches per year, along with investments in cutting-edge machinery and a more spacious, pleasant and environment-friendly setting for the 140 members of its team, the firm is clearly stating its objective: regular, reasonable and carefully monitored growth enabling it to achieve the greatest possible independence. It is well aware that only through achieving and maintaining control of its own production can it ensure fast and original progression while mastering quality, and that only an in-depth knowledge of each production stage can enable it where necessary to outsource certain tasks to subcontractors with the appropriate skills.

From theory to practice: the birth of a watch
From the idea to the first concept:During monthly meetings, the CEO Gérald Roden and his team define the plans for the new products in their offices located in Meyrin, Canton Geneva. While criteria such as design and functions are vital to development, the team also devotes particular attention to technical progress. It strives in particular to find the best ways of creating certain functions, the finest materials in terms of their performances, and the ideal means of improving certain specific parts of a given movement.

Once the characteristics of the watch and the movement are defined in Meyrin, the plans are sent on to the Manufacture in Le Sentier, which is the scene of the development and manufacturing phases, as well as testing and controls. At the end of 2007, a new building was added to the original Manufacture Gérald Genta. Dating from 1905, the initial three-storey construction is an imposing sight, with its charmingly sturdy picture windows, solid stone staircases, old wooden doors and its clock integrated into the gabled roof. The new three-storey industrial premises, featuring a wood and glass façade and a design meeting the latest norms in terms of working conditions and environment-friendly features, makes a striking contrast with the venerable original building.

From initial idea to computer simulation:Even though they a one-hour drive apart, the Gérald Genta office in Meyrin and the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux are closely connected. Up there in the mountains, on the second floor of the old building, a team of engineers assisted by watchmakers specialising in prototype-making focus on translating the movement specifications into two or three-dimensional computer designs.

Depending on the complexity of the project (simply revising a function or developing a while new mechanism), the team needs three to six months to create the first usable plans. Right from the start, the watchmakers work closely with the engineer, fine-tuning the mechanism and verifying its feasibility. Simultaneously, another team of engineers develops the case, dial and hands based on computerised 3D models that will serve as the working basis for the relevant suppliers.

The process leading from the first sketches to the first 2D or 3D models created using CAD (Computer Assisted Design) software may last up to a month. From that point on, the actual production of the various parts of the prototype can require another 10 months, followed by another eight weeks before the first fully assembled prototype is ready to slip onto the wrist.

Prototype production:Once the CAD designs are complete, the project is transferred to the new building, adjacent to the first. Visitors are welcomed by an elegant bridge in front of the entrance, arching over a pond located on street level. One floor of the building is devoted to the production of components and another houses the operations involving watchmakers as well as quality control and storage.

100 of each prototype part are produced in ten batches of ten units each, all of which are reworked and perfected by a specialised watchmaker. The improvements thus made will be taken into account in the production of the following batch. Once the prototype is approved, the rough parts are either modified or reproduced. These prototypes are made using high-precision CNC (Computer Numerically Controlled) triple-axis milling machines.

Most parts are then cut out by high-end spark-erosion machinery using a wire that is no thicker than a hair’s breadth (0.05 millimetre) and able to achieve submicronic levels of precision. This absolute accuracy and a nanometrical scale surface finishing to within a 0.2 µum (0.0002 millimetres) radius serves to create even the thinnest parts, without applying any force on the material such as in drilling or milling operations.

This state-of-the-art machinery enables the company to make around 80% of watch components in-house, including movement blanks, steel parts, wheels and pinions. The Manufacture plans to further increase this percentage in order to free itself from the constraints of subcontracting, and particularly for reasons of quality and delivery times.

After checking that the first batches comply with quality demands, a watchmaker specialised in prototype-making assembles the first five models and expresses his opinion on the feasibility of the concept. Before this stage is reached, three additional months are required in order to perform tests and pursue production of the finalised components.

Meticulous finishing to serve both functional and decorative purposes:Right next to the large area dedicated to this cutting-edge machinery is the decoration department. Finishing is one of the most visible aspects of a watch, testifying both to the brand’s pioneering spirit and to its devotion to the refined art of Haute Horlogerie. Skilled finishers work on each part in five different stages: removing burrs, smoothing all faces of the part, bevelling, initial polishing in order to create a specific surface motif, and finally meticulous polishing of special areas such as the sides of the countersinks and other round openings.

One distinctive feature of all Daniel Roth movements is the circular graining on the bridges and plates, creating concentric circles on both visible and non-visible areas. The diameter of these circles is adapted to each movement part, and the centre always finished with a half-circle. Meanwhile, snailing, another characteristic of these watches, is achieved by grinding-wheels rotating over the surface of the part in a single direction, so as to achieve a spiral effect.

Even the bevelling of the edges and angles is done in five stages: five different polishing discs fitted on a lathe perform around 2,000 rotations per minute. The craftsman, called a beveller, works first with a wooden disc, then with three different leather discs, and finally with a felt disc. For a simple bridge, the entire operation lasts around seven minutes. While certain finishes require the use of a machine such as a polishing lathe, others can only be done by hand using felts, burnishers and stones. These artisans lavish five to seven hours on a single entirely hand-finished tourbillon bridge.

The assembly workshops:The project, after going through the component production area and on to the finishing department, then arrives in one of the two workshops occupying the most space on the second floor: the workshop dedicated to “small complications” (retrograde or jumping hour functions) and the other one specialising in “grand complications”

The “small complications” workshop:This is where watchmakers assemble the numerous components making up chronographs, jumping hour and retrograding mechanisms. Each watchmaker in this department has taken six to twelve months’ additional training in order to master all the techniques involved. Once assembled and cased up, each movement is checked by the master-watchmaker in charge and tested for several days within the workshop.

The “grand complications” workshop:Even more time and patience are required in the workshop where the grand complications are assembled. It is here that a team of highly qualified watchmakers devote themselves entirely to their art, that of assembling tourbillons and perpetual calendars. A single watchmaker works on each watch, which may comprise up to 200 main parts, along with screws and other tiny components, thereby making him entirely responsible for the entire product. It is also in this workshop that specialised watchmakers handle one-of-a-kind creations and special orders.

Adjusting the action of the wheels and pinions is an extremely delicate task in a perpetual calendar mechanism. The springs must be adapted in such a way as to perform a perfect mechanical ballet, whether they affect the timing of the day indicator in motion or whether they control the entire range of day, month and year and leap-year displays. Assembling a tourbillon carriage can take several days in itself. Creating a self-winding tourbillon with a perpetual calendar and GMT function calls for even more time and effort: almost three weeks are required before it is completed and ready for tests that will last for about the same period of time.

The striking mechanism department:This guided tour finishes on a beautiful note in a third workshop, the striking mechanism department, where the famous Gérald Genta musical watches come to life. Upon entering it, one soon observes that the characteristic silence of a watchmaking workshop is occasionally and tunefully broken by the magnificent sound of a movement striking for the very first time. This is where the famous Octo Grande Sonnerie Retro Tourbillon by Gérald Genta, the world’s most complicated self-winding watch, is patiently assembled by the dextrous fingers of a master-watchmaker loyal to the brand since the time the first of these masterpieces were created in the 1990s. And while other workshops have to deal with several hundreds of parts to be assembled, that figure is closer to a thousand here, thereby considerably raising the level of difficulty. It is certainly easy to grasp why a watchmaker can only create a few of these exceptional mechanisms per year.

During the assembly process, the watchmakers cooperate closely with the acoustic laboratory that verifies the musical qualities of the striking mechanisms and points out any potential flaws. Using dedicated software, the acoustic engineer, assisted by the watchmaker, analyses the quality of the tone and the richness of the notes emitted by the watch. Where necessary, they elaborate methods serving to further improve the beauty of the sound, working with curves and diagrams calculated by special computer programmes.

The constant quest for optimal quality
Quality as a systematic priority:Gérald Genta takes the risk of offering exclusively complicated watches, even for range-entry models, whereas complications represent the peak of the range for certain other brands. This explains why quality control is an integral part of the production cycle within the Manufacture and why a large part of the second floor of the new building is devoted to this task.

At Gérald Genta, quality control relates not only to finished watches, but also to all parts, at each stage of production. First of all, a visual inspection is performed with a 2.5 times magnifying glass. The detection of any flaw whatsoever will mean sending the part back to its point of departure, or correcting it on the spot if this is feasible.

A three-dimensional precision measurement system equipped with an automatic CNC camera ensures the correct positioning of all holes on the plates and bridges. This operation is performed directly according to the plans that are pre-recorded in the CNC milling machine. If just two or more units within a batch of 100 do not meet the established criteria, the entire batch is rejected.

In addition to the technical tests conducted on the blanks and the unfinished movements, the quality control department also verifies the accuracy of the bevelling on the parts handled by the finishing department. In the case of a snailed motif on a wheel for example, the dimensions actually applied and the quality of the finishing are compared with the technical drawings. The exact dimensions of the circular graining and other finishing methods, as well as the surface treatments such as electroplating, are also scrupulously examined.

During this period, the watchmakers themselves also test and personally validate with their signature each stage of the production process. Moreover, the finished and cased-up watches are tested and accompanied by a technical report certifying their performances and included in the guarantee supplied with the watch. When a watch is entrusted to a watchmaker for a periodic maintenance test, the watchmaker uses this report in order to comply with the original quality criteria.

Even simply determining the power reserve of each watch takes a good deal of time in itself. For a movement with an eight-day power reserve, the watch is tested for this entire period, whereas watches with a two-day power reserve call for 48 hours of testing. Precision is then tested in all positions, followed by a water-resistance control.

All the watches that emerge from the Manufacture are delivered with their own CTM (standing for Contrôle Technique de Marche, or Technical Rating Control) certificate. Each complication also bears the personal seal of the watchmaker who has created it.

The spirit of exceptional products: It is the care devoted to each stage in the creation of a Gérald Genta watch that gives the connoisseur such a unique feeling: the future owner can be sure of benefiting from the highest possible quality for a product that is not only heir to the authentic spirit of Haute Horlogerie, but also stems from exceptional genius. In buying a Gérald Genta watch, the customer is not merely acquiring an object with a daring design, but also a cutting-edge horological instrument and a high-quality design, so meticulously executed that even after years of accurate and flawless operation, it will procure its wearer just the same pleasure as on the very first day it was slipped onto the wrist.


[Note: The Manufacture Gérald Genta is now owned by BVLGARI]

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