Monday, March 30, 2009

Asprey watches - The No. 8 Tourbillon

This is a remarkable watch limited to only 10 pieces. A rare phenomenon in watch
making, the 30 second revolution of the Tourbillon rather than the standard minute,
bears eloquent witness to an exceptional level of technical know-how and craftsmanship. The Tourbillon has a seven day power reserve and the pure, understated beauty of the movement is revealed at the reverse of the watch, making it equally elegant and refined whether viewed from the front or the reverse.



Movement
- Exclusive mechanical manually-wound tonneau movement rhodium plated,
calibre 13”x10.5”, 6004, entirely crafted by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
- 30 seconds Tourbillon
- Power reserve of 7 days (192 hours, with patented spherical differential)
- The movement has hand-chamfered bridges and mechanisms.
-“Côte de Genève” decoration with the Asprey logo on one bridge.

Case
- Individual identification number (01-10) engraved on the case back
- 18ct white gold round case with see-through case back
- Watch is water resistant to 30 metres
- Scratch resistant sapphire anti-reflective double face glass.

Dial and hands
- The power reserve indicator has Arabic numerals with hand in purple
- Silver coloured dial with Arabic numerals printed
- ‘Tourbillon 30 seconds’ printed in purple around the tourbillon cage
- Black Asprey logo engraved on movement bridge
- Hour and minute hands rhodium plated, second hand in purple.

Strap
- Two alligator straps with embossed ‘Asprey’ logo on reverse, one for deployment buckle, the other for pin buckle
- Two buckles, deployment and pin, in 18ct white gold

Maurice Lacroix- Gold Pontos Décentrique GMT Pink (Basel world 2009)

A new refined variation of the Pontos Décentrique GMT model, a luxurious interpretation that dares the combination of pink and brown.Following a limited edition in titanium and a model in steel, Maurice Lacroix adds a gold version to its Pontos Décentriques GMT collection. The Pontos Décentrique GMT pink gold plays with color with an expertise and a subtlety that reflect the technical innovation and original esthetics that have become the trademark of the brand's timepieces.



Eccentric by nature
Its language is unique. It takes its place among watchmaking creations as an original timepiece immediately identifiable by its architectural lines and innovative contemporary design with off-centered functions. This off-center display draws the eye, plunging it into the subtleties at the heart of this masterpiece, the avant-garde design of which was attributed a prestigious reward: the Red Dot Design Award 2006. The hours, minutes and seconds are freed from the center of the dial and placed in a round off-set segment at 10 o'clock. The day and night display for a second time zone is placed on a disk at 5 o'clock, which shows the symbols of the sun and the moon. Also surprising, the date display is enhanced by means of a patented mechanism, developed by Maurice Lacroix, which lifts up the date disk. This innovative construction creates a three-dimensional effect and an additional design element on this dial with such a unique display.

Pink gold and hot chocolate
The Pontos Décentrique GMT pink gold is distinguished by advanced research carried out into color and the play of finishes. By multiplying tonal subtleties in this timepiece of expressive lines, Maurice Lacroix enhances its functions and gives it a distinctive character that is instantly recognizable to confirmed esthetes. The contrasting finishes within the dial create a depth that appears to multiply the shades of brown that surround it and are also found in the elegant, overstitched alligator-skin strap. The day/night disc is covered by a sapphire crystal which reveals the game of hide-and-seek played beween the chocolate disk and the stars. To complement the brown of the dial, the markers and hands are plated in pink gold. The 43 mm case and the buckle are in18 Kt gold.



The Pontos Décentrique range
As part of the Pontos collection, the Décentrique range was launched in 2006. Its incomparable architectural identity makes it an object of absolute esthetics, without ostentation but with a keen sense of the trends of the future and useful functions. The internationally-recognized aesthetics of the Pontos Décentrique model won the Red Dot Design Award in 2007.



Technical features :
Model description:Pontos Décentrique GMT pink gold
Movement: Automatic ML121 mechanical movement developed by Maurice Lacroix. Unique off-center concept with double time zone on a separate counter. Patent pending for the date display: linkage system between the main movement and the complication module.
Functions: Off-center hours, minutes and seconds display; off-center day and night display for a second timezone at 5 o'clock, date display at 6 o'clock, frequency: 28'800 vibrations/h, 4 Hz, power reserve: 38 hours, 30 jewels, settings and adjustment: 5 positions after full winding and after 24 hours’ operation
Case: 43 mm pink gold, refined finishes with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, screwed caseback with sapphire crystal. Integrated second time zone corrector at 2 o'clock, water-resistant to 5 atm.
Dial: Architectural dial with off-center display. Brown, hands and markers pink gold plated. Contrasting finishes with opaline base and satin-finished flange. Integrated sapphire crystal with sanded finish partially concealing the day/night disk and highlighting the date aperture at 6 o'clock.
Decoration: Rhodium-plated movement, hand-decorated with a Côtes de Genève motif, pink-gold-plated rotor.
Strap: Brown alligator skin, lining in brown calfskin, brown overstitching. Semi-brilliant finish.

Asprey watches - The No. 8 Limited edition with 8 day movement

An exceptional watch, this is one of the most important of the Asprey timepieces. It takes its inspiration from historic Asprey travel clocks with an eight day power reserve. This complex and highly crafted 8 day movement has been created for this limited edition of 100 pieces, each individually numbered and certificated.





Technical details:
Movement
- Exclusive mechanical manually-wound tonneau movement rhodium plated,
calibre 13”x10.5”, 110-03, entirely crafted by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
- Power reserve 8 days (215 hours, with patented spherical differential)
- The movement has hand-chamfered bridges and mechanisms.
-“Côte de Genève” decoration with the Asprey logo on one bridge.

Case
- Individual identification number (01-100) engraved on the case back
- 18ct white gold round case with see-through case back
- Water resistant to 30 metres
- Scratch resistant sapphire anti-reflective double face glass.

Dial and hands
- White dial with applied rhodium plated Arabic numerals and markers
- The power reserve indicator has Arabic numerals in black with ‘8 Days’ and hand in purple
- Asprey logo
- Date displayed at 3:00
- Second counter at 6:00
- Hour and minute hands rhodium plated, second hand in purple
Strap
- Two alligator straps with embossed ‘Asprey’ logo on reverse, one for deployment buckle, the other for pin buckle
- Two buckles, deployment and pin, in 18ct white gold

Asprey watches: Brand Profile, History and Products

Asprey represents style, refinement and quality – British classicism expressed with a modern spirit. Founded in 1781, Asprey is still today the ultimate authentic British Luxury Lifestyle House. Asprey is renowned for fine jewellery, watches and clocks, leather goods, silver, china, crystal, ready to wear, accessories and fragrance.

The Asprey watch collections, for men and for women, perfectly capture the Asprey spirit of craftsmanship married with design, of classic sensibilities expressed with a modern flair. Whether inspired by British instruments for travel and exploration or original designs from the Asprey archive, each Swiss watch is made with exquisitely produced movements and materials of the finest quality. The intrinsic elegance of the exclusive collections, from the No. 8 range to ladies jewelled watches, is complimented by superb functionality. Even in the simplest detail – the use of sapphire anti-reflective glass or luminova numerals – practicality and beauty are delicately balanced. This is the unmistakable Asprey signature.

Maurice Lacroix- Pontos Chronograph Sport models Full Black and Titanium with Personalized Valjoux 7750 caliber (2009)

Maurice Lacroix is reinforcing the Pontos Chronographe collection with the launch of two models that strongly assert their sporting temperament. Timepieces with a decided character that aim to play the game without time out.

Black is black
The character of the Pontos Chronographe range remains loyal to the codes of the Pontos collection: design, contemporary style and purity. In this new sports version, the range becomes an archetype by refusing any compromise. The Pontos Chronographe Sport Full Black occupies the field in the same way as the sportsmen and women who have the caliber to impose themselves right from the starting line. Sculptural and physically unmistakable, it is shaped to declare its outstanding features. First, its color. Black, from every angle and for all textures. The timepiece exploits black in all registers and hues to give more body to its solid volumes, and uses textures and finishes that enhance its key attributes. From the case to the buckle, blackened by an innovative ceramic coating, from the hands to the dial and strap, "All is Black". Even the additional function counters make no concessions and blend tone on tone into the whole. For the purposes of functionality, the hands and the flange are in SuperLumiNova, guaranteeing optimal legibility. Second outstanding feature: texture. The sports qualities of the timepiece call for unfinished surfaces and coarse finishes. The steel case is sanded to give a grain that complements the tactile quality of the profiled leather of the singularly sporty strap.



Sports functions:
A variation of the Pontos Chronographe series launched in 2004, the Pontos Chronographe Sport Full Black has an automatic movement based on the Valjoux 7750 caliber, recognized for its precision and reliability. It has a chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters, a small seconds display, a date display and a tachymeter on the outer ring.

Pontos Chronographe Sport titanium
This high-tech version of the Pontos Chronographe Sport titane has the same design features and reflects all the architectural codes of the Pontos Chronographe range. It stands out by its color, materials and finishes.



The brushed 43 mm case is made of titanium. The black dial allows the counters to take pride pof place in the centre. In black and silver, the 30-minute and 12-hour counters are read by means of applique numerals in the ultimate color of sport: orange. A dynamic color that is also present in the tachymeter, and at the ends of the hands. The Pontos Chronographe titane is also available with an anthracite-gray dial.

The Pontos Chronographe range
The subseries of the leading Pontos range, Pontos Chronographe was launched in 2004. With strong personality and easily identifiable architectural lines, these timepieces express sports esthetics combined with a high-precision mechanism of tried and tested reliability. They are designed for those who appreciate sportsmanship and high-tech design.

Design features:
Pontos Chronographe Sport Full Black
Pontos Chronographe Sport titanium
Movement: Personalized Valjoux 7750 caliber, 25 jewels
Automatic ML 112 caliber, based on the Valjoux 7750 caliber
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds display, small seconds display at 9 o'clock, 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 6 o'clock, date display at 6 o'clock.
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/h, 4 Hz, power reserve: 46 hours. Setting and adjustment: 3 positions after full winding and after 24 hours’ operation
Case: 43 mm steel with black ceramic coating, sanded finishes, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, screwed caseback with sapphire crystal, toggle push-pieces, water-resistant to 50 metres (5 atm) / titanium
Dial: Black / black and silver / anthracite-gray and silver, satin-finished flange with tachymeter and SuperLumiNova 'BGW9' dot
Strap: Pin buckle, black rubber
Decoration: Rhodium-plated movement, hand-decorated with a Côtes de Genève motif, black PVD-treated rotor (on the Full Black)

Maurice Lacroix- Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde limited edition (Basel world 2009)

The look is contemporary, the demeanor stately. The new Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde introduces a new interface that is unique in its kind and that offers time measurement a generous case with a 46 mm diameter. Driven by the new Manufacture-made ML 152 movement, this timepiece is imbued with a geometric simplicity that galvanizes its mechanical complexity.Like time itself, it displays a dynamic personality that is constantly on the move together with a high-tech, openwork dial. Beneath the sapphire crystal, which has an anti-reflective coating on both sides, the dial structures and gives proportion to the watch’s time indicators with calculated and mathematical balance.



Perfectly symmetrical, the power reserve and retrograde date displays, positioned at 2 o’clock and at 10 o’clock, are mirror images of each other. The meticulous, hollowed-out windows offer a subtle behind-the-scenes glimpse of time; the arcs have been skeletonized for an “industrial” look, while all unnecessary decor has been avoided. Featuring boldly colored extremities, each hand has been delicately applied to the dial and slides beneath one of the numerous hollowed-out arcs that display the watch’s information.

The moon phase is displayed on a precisely calibrated celestial disc positioned at 6 o’clock. This design fulfills the brand's desire to give time a more modern image. A small luminescent hand, that closely resembles the hours and minutes hands, indicates the day of the week on the edge of the moon-phase disc.

The technical nature of the Masterpiece Lune Retrograde extends to its simple finishes. Its dynamic, calculated and steadfast design resembles those who have decided to appreciate time with determination and confidence, rather than suffer it. A worthy heir of the brand’s heritage in terms of retrograde and moon-phase mechanisms, this model joins the ranks of the ML 150 and ML 151 movements launched in 2008, which were also designed and developed in-house.



Technical Data:
Movement: Moon Phases Retrograde Calendar Maurice Lacroix Manufacture movement ML152, equipped with its own lever assortment, gear-train and spring balance, developed, manufactured and assembled in-house.
Functions: Hours and minutes indicated by central hands, retrograde calendar indicated by hand, visible through the dial at 10 o’clock, moon phases indicated by a disc at 6 o’clock, day indicated by a hand at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicated by hand, visible through the dial at 2 o’clock, vibration 18,000 vph, 2.5 Hz, power reserve 42 hours, 37 jewels, adjustment: 5 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours.
Decoration: Hand-decorated bridges plated with black-gold and featuring large snail-like pattern and dedicated moon phases disc.
Case: Combination of polished sunray, circular- and vertical-brushed surfaces, steel, 46 mm diameter, screwed steel bezel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, integrated shaped push-pieces to correct functions, screw-down crown in ¼ turn, screwed case-back featuring a large sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water resistant to 100 m / 10 atm.
Dial: Functions revealed through skeletonized dial, main plate: slate-gray with vertical-brushed finish, skeletonized retrograde calendar and power reserve zones, applied ring: circular-brushed with polished applied slate-gray Arabic numerals, integrated skeletonized indicators for the retrograde calendar and power reserve functions, large opening at 6 o’clock for the moon phase indication, with an integrated metal-coated sapphire crystal, applied “Maurice Lacroix” brushed cartouches.
Strap: Black hand-stitched porosus crocodile-skin strap with large scales, black calfskin lining and matching stitching.
Edition: Limited to 250 pieces, with certificate.

Maurice Lacroix- Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette limited edition ( Basel world 2009)

Spearheading the Maurice Lacroix Manufacture, the Masterpiece collection strikes a clever balance between technology, tradition and modernist esthetics. It represents the brand’s expertise and, in particular, its mastery of retrograde complications, moon phases and chronographs, while creating a new image for the measurement of time.

The timepieces of this flagship collection meet the highest standards of mechanical watchmaking set out by renowned Manufactures. The cases, dials and movements attest to the quality of their design and execution down to the minutest detail, which in turn reflects the brand’s rigorous approach to research and development.

The aesthetics of the Masterpiece collection have evolved toward a contemporary design inspired by the art of living. Featuring modern finishes and silhouettes, this collection promotes a new experience of watchmaking that is firmly attuned to today’s world. Combining expertise and daring style, these watches revisit tradition with simple elegance, avoiding pretence and excess extravagance. Created for modern-day dandies for whom performance and etiquette are everyday necessities, these watches embody the identity of a young brand whose innovative edge has given rise to a solid reputation.

This year, two new timepieces have joined the world of mechanical jewelry. Driven by movements designed and developed in-house, the Masterpiece Chronographe Squelette and the Masterpiece Lune Retrograde capture time within a prominent high-tech case. Water-resistant to 100 meters, they boast shaped push-pieces and a ¼-turn screw-down crown. The decoration features alternating polished and circular/vertical satin-brushed surfaces, which result in a perfectly finished and balanced design. Refined. Striking.

Powerful designs and precise operation firmly entrench these watches in an urban and hedonistic 21st century, which enjoys combining time with sophistication.


An avant-garde design housed within a diameter of 45 mm. A skeleton that shapes time. A Manufacture –made mechanism, the ML 106-7 caliber. This new instrument for the measurement of short time intervals deserves the utmost respect. Its precise mechanics, for which a patent has been filed, and openwork design, which displays and thus authenticates the movement, are the cornerstones of an undeniably contemporary collection.

Offering a new take on the skeleton watch, which had already been fully redesigned in 2007 with the Masterpiece Squelette, this model looks like being a worthy successor. Protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, the manually wound movement is proudly on display. Within this maze, the workings of the skeletal structure enjoy a refined, streamlined effect and have been reduced to the bare essentials.



Hypnotized by the movement’s intricacy, the light brushes past the dusky seconds hand, before bouncing off the sharp, luminous spurs of the hours and minutes hands. Having pierced through the slate-gray metallic sapphire dial, with its applied time indicators, it comes to rest on the chronograph counters, intrigued by the presence of a 60-minute counter. It then follows the movement of the counter’s hands which, shaped like skeletal discs, resemble the gears of the movement.

It then ricochets off the snailed architecture and black screws of the bottom plate, before being drawn into the depths of this compelling time machine. Once inside, it tames the escapement, grazes across the golden gears, acquaints itself with the column wheel and caresses the rubies. Then, in a flash, it slips through the sapphire-crystal case-back, powered by the oscillations of a well-concealed, black balance that blends into its surroundings until almost invisible.

The structure of the Le Chronographe Squelette transforms inorganic matter into a living and exciting mechanism that displays each of its Manufacture-crafted components with pride. The design of this metallic sculpture is an appropriate icon for a brand that has dared to create an elegant yet edgy collection most definitely anchored in the 21st century.



Technical Data:
Movement: Chronograph equipped with a Maurice Lacroix Manufacture movement and its own lever assortment, gear-train and spring balance. Developed, manufactured and assembled in-house. Precision enhanced by innovation/Patent: 60-minute counter: a rare function that is highly adapted to accurate time-keeping a more precise chronograph function (accurate to 1/5 second) is maintained in direct relation with the seconds hand for optimal precision. Maurice Lacroix patent on the lever (located under the hammer). In the event of impact, this technical innovation optimizes security during the interlocking or releasing phases, thus guaranteeing utmost precision. Chronograph-wheel enables a special toothed shape (300 teeth) to be used, which cannot be crafted using traditional fabrication techniques. It is another guarantee of utmost precision.
Functions: Hours and minutes indicated by central hands, small seconds at 9 o’clock, Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand, 60-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. Vibration18,000 vph, 2.5 Hz, Power reserve 42 hours, 22 Jewels, adjustment: 5 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours. Swan neck ensures smooth adjustment, diameter: 16’’½ (36.6 mm)
Decoration: Hand-decorated bridges plated with black gold and featuring a large snail-like pattern ML wheel design matches the design of the hands and discs.
Case: Combination of polished sunray, circular- and vertical-brushed surfaces, steel case, 45 mm diameter, screwed steel bezel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, Integrated shaped push-pieces, screw-down crown in ¼ turn, screwed case-back featuring large sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 100 m / 10 atm.
Dial: Sapphire-crystal dial with metal-coated treatment, dial with anti-reflective coating on both sides for a clearer view of the skeleton movement, slate-gray metal-coated treatment to reinforce the effect of the double counters and chronograph-seconds track function, white SLN (SuperLumiNova) spots on counters and second tracks.
Strap: Black hand-stitched porous crocodile-skin strap with large scales, black calfskin lining and matching stitching.
Edition: Limited to 250 pieces, with certificate

The Most Important Pocket and Form Watches Ever Sold at Auction - by Value

“Henry Graves Supercomplication” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1933, 18K gold pocket watch with 24 complications. Diam. 74mm, sold at Sotheby’s, New York, in December 1999:US$ 11,,002,,500

“White Gold Calibre 89, The Most Complicated Watch in the World” Patek Philippe, Genève, 1989, 18K gold clockwatch with 33 complications. Diam. 88,2mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2004 : US$ 5,,002,,500

“Yellow Gold Calibre 89, The Most Complicated Watch in the World” Patek Philippe, Genève, 1989, 18K gold clockwatch with 33 complications. Diam. 88,2 mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 1989 : US$ 3,,200,,000

“The Amphora” Piguet & Capt, circa 1805, gold and enamel, pearl-set musical form watch with automaton. Dim. 102 x 58 mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2002:US$ 2,,450,,305

“Yermoloff” Breguet No. 2807, sold to General Yermoloff, circa 1817, 18K gold watch with equation of time. Diam. 60mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in October 2002:US$ 1,,354,,000

“Henry Graves” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1930, platinum pocket watch with one-minute tourbillon regulator. Diam. 53mm, sold at Christie’s, Geneva, in May 2004 :US$ 1,,779,,000

“Venus Binding the Wings of Cupid” Piguet & Meylan, Genève, circa 1820, gold, enamel, pearl and turquoise-set watch with music and automaton. Dim. 95 x 65mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in November 1999 :US$ 1,,421,,500

“Don Antonio of Spain” Breguet No 1188, sold to Don Antonio, circa 1808, 18K gold Garde-Temps watch with freesprung one-minute tourbillon regulator. Diam. 66mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in October 2002 :US$ 1,,288,,054

“Gradowski” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1890, 18K gold pocket watch with 12 complications. Diam. 54mm, sold at Antiquorum, Hong Kong, in June 2002 : US$ 2,,481,,000

“King Fouad” Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, presented to King Fouad I of Egypt in 1929. Unique clockwatch with 12 complications. Diam. 67mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2005 : US$ 2,,777,,250

“Singing Bird Pistols” Frères Rochat, circa 1820, a pair of gold and enamel pearland diamond-set singing bird pistols with automata. Dim. 145 x 38mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in October 2002 :US$ 1,,835,,000

The Henry Graves Jr. "Grande Complication" Patek Philippe & Cie, 1930, unique 18K gold clockwatch with 12 complications. Diam. 63mm, sold at Christie’s, Geneva, in November 2005:US$ 1,,981,,200

“Nightingale and Fledglings” Frères Rochat, Geneva, circa 1814. Unique gold and enamel, diamond-set miniature singing bird cage with automata. Height 271mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in October 2003 :US$ 1,,430,,000

"The George Thompson Grande Complication" Patek Philippe & Cie, 1914. Double faced minute-repeat perpetual calendar keyless lever watch with split seconds chronograph and register. Diam: 54mm Sold at Sotheby's, Geneva, in May 2006 :US$ 1,,541,,212

“Singing Bird Pistol” Frères Rochat, circa 1815, gold, enamel and pearl-set singing bird pistol with automaton. Dim. 170 x 85 x 38mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 1994 :US$ 1,,251,,000

“Cremsdorff” Jean Cremsdorff, Paris, circa 1650, gold, enamel and diamond-set pendant watch. The case with champlevé enamel in the manner of the Blois school. Diam. 60mm, sold at Christie’s, Geneva, in May 1986 :US$ 949,,300

Graham-London Watches: Chronograph Collection ( 2005-2006)

Here is a review of some chronograph models by Graham-London originally introduced between 2005 and 2006.The list consists the following models.

-Swordfifish
-Siverstone
-Grand Silverstone
-Aeroflyback
-Masetrsplit
-Chronofighter Oversize


1.Graham London Swordfifish chronograph:
Wide-eyed and breathless. This vigorously sensual chronograph boasts the kind of unique technical features that are the very essence of Graham's brand philosophy: the domed sapphire crystals that are protecting the 12-hour /sweep seconds and 30-minute counters are reinforcing the legibility. The ridged tip of the crown and push buttons with «clous de Paris» motifs ensure a perfect grip. Thanks to its distinctive look, Swordfifish catches and holds the gaze of all watch afificionados.



Technical details:
Chronograph automatic calibre G1710, left or right version, 46 mm diameter,
water resistant to 160 feet (50 metres), stainless steel or
gold with rubber or leather strap.


Models:
Ref. 2SWAR.S04A.K06B :Gold with Silver Dial (total weight of gold is 160 grams).
Ref. 2SWAS.S02A.K06B :Steel with Silver Dial Left Version
Ref. 2SWAS.B01A.K06B :Steel with Black Dial Right Version

2.Graham London Silverstone flyback chronograph:
A flyback chronograph with second time zone and big date, automatic calibre G1721, 41 mm-diameter, water resistant to 160 feet (50 metres), in stainless steel or gold with leather strap or stainless steel bracelet.



Models:
Ref. 2SIAR.S01A.C01B : Gold (total weight of gold is 104 grams)
Ref. 2SIAS.U01A.A02F : Steel with Blue Dial
Ref. 2SIAS.S02A.C03B : Steel with Silver Dial

3.Graham London Grand Silverstone flyback chronograph:
A flyback chronograph with second time zone and big date, automatic calibre G1721, 44 mm-diameter, water resistant to 160 feet (50 metres), in stainless steel with rubber strap or genuine crocodile strap.



Models:
Ref. 2GSIAS.B02A.K07B:Steel with Black Dial
Ref. 2GSIAS.U01A.K07B :Steel with Black & Blue Dial
Ref. 2GSIAS.B01A.K07B :Steel with Black & Silver Dial

4.Graham London Aeroflyback chronograph
A flyback chronograph, date, automatic calibre G1740, 41 mm-diameter, water resistant to 160 feet (50 metres), in stainless steel with genuine crocodile strap or stainless steel bracelet like the Silverstone.



Featured Models:
Ref. 2AFAS.B06A.C16B:Aeroflflyback «Pit Stop»
Ref. 2AFAS.B02A.C01B:Steel with Black & Grey Dial

5.Graham London Mastersplit mono-split chronograph
The most striking characteristic of this exquisite mono-split chronograph is the absence of the usual third push-button as well as the customary additional second hand. Instead, close consecutive times are measured by a simple and intuitive system involving pressing the push-button at 4 o’clock that stops the seconds hand to read off a «split» time, before releasing it to send the hand flying to make up for lost time. A mono-split second chronograph, hand winding calibre G4445, 43 mm diameter,
water resistant to 100 feet (30 metres) , in gold (total weight of
gold is 98 grams) with genuine crocodile strap.



Models:
Ref. 2MSBR.S01A.C79B:Gold with Silver Dial
Ref. 2MSBR.B01A.C80B:Gold with Black Dial

6.Graham London Chronofighter Oversize chronograph
Nicknamed «The Ultimate Chronograph», this forceful, ultra-masculine model features enhanced reliability thanks to the ultra-functional left hand control lever with non-slip thumb grip and allen screws for a resolutely technical look and feel. Automatic movement calibre G1732, 46 mm-diameter, water resistant to 330 feet (100 metres), in stainless steel with leather or rubber strap.



Models:
Ref. 2OVAS.B01A.K10B:Steel with Black Dial/ Rubber Strap
Ref. 2OVAS.S01A.L50B:Steel with Silver Dial / Leather Strap

VOILA Watches-Collection “SUPERSTAR”

Collection “SUPERSTAR” is an original ultra-chic timepiece never before created with six precisely carved extended opening, each telling its own hour of the day. An all stainless steel watch case that shows its craftsmanship with its precise indents at each alternative hour; its also where it exposes a luxurious one piece hand stitched leather cuff it’s fitted on to. Every angle of the watch is functionally designed to show time precisely in its detail. Superstar designer timepieces by Roger Khemlani; are fully assembled and produced in Switzerland.



Price:
EUR 395.00 Superstar Classic
EUR 595.00 Superstar Classic with Ostrich & Ornamented French lace cuff
EUR 1,790.00 Superstar Diamond with Ostrich cuff
EUR 1,990.00 Superstar Diamond with Ostrich & Ornamented French lace cuff
EUR 1,090.00 Superstar Sapphire-splash
EUR 1,290.00 Superstar Sapphire- splash with Ostrich & Ornamented French lace cuff.



Movement:Quartz Ronda Cal 1062, Swiss Made
Case:316L triple layered, polished Stainless Steel case,
Dimensions 36.0 x 39.0 mm, height 6.85 mm, Curved screw on case back, water-resistant to 30M
Dial: Hand polished sun-blasted finish enamel surface dial with luminous ink-filled oversized Arabic numbers on its six extended openings.
Strap:Hand stitched Italian Calf leather cuff strap
Hand Stitched Genuine Ostrich cuff with deployment clasp for luxury versions
Hand stitched Genuine Ostrich & Ornamented French lace cuff with deployment clasp



Variations:
Superstar Diamond - 0.70cts diamonds set on bezel
Superstar Sapphire-splash - 0.70cts of six colored sapphires set on bezel
Superstar Classic - All stainless steel with calf leather strap.

Graham-London Watches: Introduction and History

Graham-London timepieces are contemporary watches dedicated to enthusiasts of the mechanical arts. The brand Graham-London was primarily founded in 1695 by George Graham, one of the peers of watch making known as “the father of the chronograph”.

Open-minded and passionately interested in exchanges with his peers, including in other countries, Graham would doubtless have approved this modern Swiss initiative to revive the finest British horological traditions and build on his rich heritage. The brand is currently owned by The British Masters SA. Based on inventive concepts determining design, functions and finish, the “British brand made by Swiss” creates imposing “wrist machines”.Graham-London's different timepieces have revolutionized a few codes in traditional design, especially with the chronograph that belongs to Graham’s core business. Graham watches designs reflect the inventiveness and the eccentricity of the inhabitants of the British Isles combines with the excellence of the traditional know-how.

GEORGE GRAHAM (1673-1751)
Came to London fairly young. In 1688 he became apprentice to Henry Aske for seven years. He was admitted a freeman of the Clockmakers' Company on completing his indentures in 1695 and immediately entered the service of Thomas Tompion, thus beginning a life-long friendship, severed only by the death of Tompion in 1713. In 1696 he married Tompion's niece Elizabeth. A few clocks and watches during the last years of Tompion's life, are signed "Tompion & Graham".
George Graham
After the death of Tompion, Graham continued the business at the same address, at the sign of Dial and Three Crowns, at the corner of Water lane, in Fleet Street, London. In 1720 he moved to a new house, The Dial and One Crown, at the other side of the same street, nearer Fleet Bridge, next door to the Globe and Duke of Marlborough's Head Tavern, where he remained until his death.

Graham was elected as Fellow of the Royal Society in 1721 and chosen as a Member of the Council of that body in 1722. He contributed 21 papers on various subjects to the Philosophical Translations. He became Master of the Clockmakers' Company in 1722.

After the expiration of Booth, Houghton and Tompion's patent, Graham devoted some thought to the cylinder escapement, which in 1725 he improved to practically its present form, and after 1726 introduced it into all watches. Securing to himself the monopoly of any if his discoveries was foreign to this dispositions. The reputation which English horology acquired on the Continent during the 18th Century was due in no small measure to Graham's candid treatment of his brethren in the art in other countries. In answer to inquiries, Julien Le Roy received from Graham one of his watches with cylinder escapement in 1728 and French horologist's generous avowal of its superiority is worthy of his acknowledged greatness.

He invented the dead-beat escapement in 1715, the Graham device, a type of wall chronograph in 1720 and the mercury pendulum in 1726. The combination of these seventy-four clocks of all types, numbered from 600 to 774. As against this he made nearly three thousand watches. No.4369, still signed Tompion & Graham, cannot therefore be later than 1713 and No.6474, the highest number known up to now, carries the hallmarks for 1751, the year when Graham died. Like Tompion, Graham had a separate series for repeaters, ranging from 402, hallmarked for 1713, to No.965, which must be the last one, since No.968, is signed by Thomas Colley, Graham's successor.

Graham's watches were much forged, even in his life-time, but this may generally be detected since he not only marked the number in the usual place, on the back plate, together with his name, but also on the pillar-plate, under the dial, and on the under-side of the cock.

Immediately after Graham's death, there was some competition to claim his goodwill. Only two days later, the following notice appeared in the General Advertiser : "Thomas Mudge, watch-maker, apprentice to the late Mr. Graham, carries on business in the same manner as Mr. Graham did, at the sign of the Dial and Crown, opposite the Bolt and Tun, in the Fleet Street. Graham died in 1751 and was buried in Westminster Abbey.

British Masters SA
The British Masters SA is a private Anglo-Swiss owned firm founded in 1995 by Swiss watchmaking engineer Eric Loth in the Neuchatel canton, Switzerland’s watchmaking heart.The British Masters continue to write the history of two legendary watchmaking names: Graham and Arnold & Son.

Perhaps best known as the «father of the chronograph», George Graham (1673–1751) was also the brains behind inventions such as the dead-beat cylinder escapement, the first wall chronograph and the mercury pendulum. Commissioned by the Greenwich Royal Observatory to create the Master Clock used by astronomers, he became the first great 18th century clock-maker to be admitted to the Royal Society. Perpetuating this spirit of remarkable innovations and technical expertise, Graham is now a contemporary watch brand dedicated to enthusiasts of the mechanical arts.

Open-minded and passionately engaged in exchanges with his peers, including in other countries, Graham would doubtless have approved this modern Swiss initiative to revive the finest British horological traditions and build on his rich heritage. Based on inventive concepts determining design, functions and finish, the «British brand made by Swiss» creates imposing «wrist machines». Graham watches evoke a powerful fascination among connoisseurs and collectors with technically and esthetically playful objects that combine originality, exclusivity and avant-garde with the excellence of traditional know-how.
Graham Watch Company
Eric Loth - Founder and CEO The British Masters SA.
Born in Bienne and grown up in Le Locle, Eric Loth has been deeply immersed in the engineering world ever since childhood. His father was a professor at the Engineering School of Neuchâtel; therefore he has always been surrounded by technicians and engineers. His venture into the watch creation world was completely accidental.He graduated in mechanical engineering (polytechnics) at the Neuchâtel Engineering School. Post graduated in physical metallurgy at the University of Neuchâtel and in business administration at the higher Business Management School I.M.D. in Lausanne.

To this date, through his assignments in different companies and industries (including watch-making) his work has resulted in no less than 24 international patents in materials technology and watch applications, thanks to his constant drive to develop technical innovations, to convert technical solutions into product design and more generally to bear challenges. His genuine passion is to use his innovation drive and the inspiration he gets from the many forms of Art that he admires, to turn dreams into reality.
In 1994, with the encouragement of his family, friend and partners, the idea of acquiring a watch brand in the luxury segment came up. He was looking for a very special brand through which his passion for innovation and art could be expressed. This set off a long search that resulted in a somewhat unexpected result: the names and incredibly rich history of some great inventors of 17th and 18th century- England. A research and development phase was then entered, between 1996 and 1999, inspired indeed by the rich heritage of George Graham, inventor of the Chronograph among other amazing things and of John Arnold, inventor of breakthrough escapements, a winner of the famous Longitude Prize and by far the leading supplier of Marine Chronometers to Britain’s ships (Royal Navy as well as merchant- and explorer- vessels). The product development work was done by taking these inventions and concepts in a much broader sense, and translating them to create very unique, contemporary timekeepers that would stun today’s watch-making fans. In this way, Eric Loth was determined to expose the rich British watch-making heritage and to use it to revive the time honoured English pioneering and innovation tradition in this industry.

Within 10 years, The British Masters had (re)established these brands as pre-eminent British spirit- timekeeper purveyors. Eric Loth has the ability to anticipate on trends and with his engineering and scientific background, to collaborate with designer to bring extraordinary British timepieces to life. From the considerable heritage and history of Graham and Arnold & Son, the challenge will be to put the true and timeless spirit and philosophy of these great inventors back at work with that very distinct British attitude.

Official website: www.graham-london.com

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Bell & Ross - Instrument BR 01-93 24H GMT

Master watchmakers, engineers, designers and professional users combine their skills and experience with a unique objective in mind – to create a utilitarian watch – with the motto being that the essential is never compromised by the superfluous. The INSTRUMENT BR01 has been reviewed by the Bell & Ross designers and an additional model added to the collection featuring a second time zone.
NEW INSTRUMENT BR 01-93 24H GMT
The high-tech Instrument for the long-haul traveller
• Second time zone
• Optimum readability

The new INSTRUMENT BR 01-93 24H GMT is designed specifically for the long-haul traveller. Its GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function displays the time at two different points on the globe simultaneously. The white hands on the main dial indicate the time at the wearer’s current location, while the orange hand on the 24 hour graduated inner bezel shows the time in his country of origin.The large, white photoluminescent numerals, the inner bezel and the orange-coloured GMT hand stand out against the black of the dial for perfect readability.

The INSTRUMENT BR 01-93 24H GMT is the ideal watch for long-haul journeys. The essential tool for the man wishing to travel without losing his bearings.

Technical specifications
Movement: Mechanical automatic ETA 2893
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds. Second time zone (Unidirectional interior bezel graduated to 24h). Date
Case: Size 46 mm. Glass bead blasted steel with carbon powder coating. Screw-in crown
Dial: Black. Numbers, indexes and hands are coated with a photoluminescent finish for optimal night reading
Glass: Anti-reflection sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Rubber or heavy-duty synthetic fabric

Habring² Novelties 2009 - Habring² Worldtimer, Habring² Chrono COS and Habring² Chrono Sport Automatic

At Habring Uhrentechnik the year 2009 stands for improvement of the revolutionary modular system. The system which allows the watch connoisseur - with assistance of the “custom tailors of watch business” - Maria & Richard Habring to realize his or her watch of dreams. With this years news some minor gaps in between the combination of single functions or complications will be closed. Within the calibre-family A07/A08 there are now many options the consider: hand wound or automatic, jumping second device or chronograph, big date or triple calendar, power reserve indication or second timezone, even a tourbillon.

Habring² Worldtimer 2009
The new Worldtimer uses base calibre A07 (36,6mm diameter, 7,9mm height, 24 jewels, automatically wound, patented jumping second device, big date at 3h) but instead of a simple 24-hours hand the entire dial disc turns once in 24 hours.



Totally new is the beautiful combination of enamel dial ring with the sun-bursted silver disc indicating the 24 regular time zones in the centre. As common use at Habring² - the cities disc and the indicated cities at every watch will be defined selectively in close cooperation with the customer.

Habring² Chrono COS
Beside the last year launched version (handwound, titanium case) - which has been elected by German “Chronos”- magazine to be among the top 100 watches - the Chrono COS with it’s revolutionary patented crow-operation-system to operate the stopwatch-function is now available as well in stainless steel and with automatic winding system. As well new in this line is the clear a classical artificial enamel dial with it’s up to ten highly polished layers. Bright white and ivory colour are the colour options, both with blued numerals and hour markers beside traditional manually blued steel hands.





Habring² Chrono Sport Automatic 2009
Based on the same train wheels like the Chrono COS (calibre A08) the new Chrono Sport 2009 replaces the 2007 launched version with it’s antique Valjoux- movements 7733/7734. With it the classical two button chronograph remains beside the exclusive Chrono COS as well in the Habring² collection. Available in all known dial versions including the new enamel dials. Habring² would like to point out once more that beside the available range and all new models, still many exclusive single pieces are carried out in direct interaction with the customers of Habring² .



Worldtimer 2009 and Chrono Sport Automatic 2009

Case
Screwed stainless steel watchcase made of three parts with 42mm diameter
Water-protected equivalent 50 meter depth
Spherical domed and double sided anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal
Solid double sealed stainless steel crown, sapphire crystal back
Individually engraved serial number 01 - 200X till 12 - 200X (year of production) between the lugs at 6 o’clock,

Dial/hands
White artificial enamel surface

- Worldtimer: Rhodiated applied numerals, hour markers and hands; with Superluminova coating
- Chrono Sport Auto: applied blue numerals and hour markers, traditionally blued steel hands. Alternatively various metal dials in black, blue, grey or silver.

Movements
A07W (Worldtimer) and A08 (Chrono Sport Auto)
A07W: base ETA “Valgranges” automatically wound, indication of hours and minutes, in-house dead beat center seconds device; big date display at 3h, turning dial disc with 24 world time zones.
A08: base ETA 7753 automaticly wound, indication of hours, minutes and seconds, chronograph with 30-minutes counter.
Triovis regulation system
Escapement parts in chronometer quality
Shockprotected according DIN and NIHS
24 jewels (A07W) or 27 jewels (A08)
Power reserve after being fully wound: approx. 48 hours
84 (A07W) or 79 (A08) maintenance relevant parts

Straps/packing
Various straps of leather or microfibre material
Stainless steel bracelet on request
Handmade three-part wooden box made from brushed and oiled Oregon-pine with integrated spare part compartment with a set of spares
Booklet

Price List for 2009
  • Time-Only “Carinthian” Steel Enamel, Metal or MOP 6498-1C : € 2.850,--
  • Gold Enamel, Metal or MOP 6498-1C on request
  • Upgrades for Time-Only as per definition on request
  • Surcharge for bezel with 60 diamonds TW VVSI total 1,2ct: € 6.550,--
  • Tourbillon Steel Metal various colours T6498 : € 12.500,--
  • Tourbillon “3D” Steel Metal various colours T6498 : € 17.000,--
  • Gold Metal various colours T6498 : € 27.000,--
  • “Carinthian”-finish for tourbillon models (surcharge) : € 1.500,--
  • Auto-Jumping-Second ² -Date Steel Metal various colours A07 : € 3.850,--
  • Auto-Jumping-Second ² -Date-Res. Steel Metal various colours A07G : € 4.450,--
  • Auto-Jumping-Second ² -Date-UTC Steel Metal various colours A07U : € 4.650,--
  • Auto-Jumping-Second ² - Worldtimer ¹ Steel Enamel A07W : € 4.650,--
  • Auto-Jumping-Second ² -Calendar Steel Enamel or Metal A07K : € 5.250,--
  • Jumping-Second² (manual wind) Steel Enamel, Metal or MOP A07M : € 3.150,--
  • Chrono COS ² Titan Metal grey A08COS : € 6.500,--
  • Chrono COS ² Steel Enamel or Metal A08COS € 5.500,--
  • Chrono-Automatic ¹ Steel Enamel or Metal A08 € 2.750,--

Saturday, March 28, 2009

VOILA Watches-VOILA SUPERSTAR Chronograph collection

An original ultra-chic timepiece never before created with six precisely carved extended opening, each telling its own hour of the day now in a 1/10 sec - 12 hour chronograph version. An all stainless steel watch case shows perfect craftsmanship with its precise indents at every alternative hour; it’s also at these indents where it exposes a one piece hand stitched diamond back python leather cuff it’s fitted on to. Every angle of the watch is functionally designed to show time precisely in its detail.


Assembled in Switzerland the see-thru dial exposes details of its exclusive 1/10 of sec. chronograph movement, the transparent back of the watch highlights the perfection of the micro engineered movement within it.

Superstar Chronograph is the latest in designer timepieces by Roger Khemlani Leap into Glamour, your seconds are even more precious now; with VOILA's Superstar you are the star!



Movement:Quartz Ronda Cal 5040, Swiss Made
Case:316L triple layered, polished Stainless Steel case,
Dimensions 44.40 x 47.65 mm, height 10.80 mm, Curved screw on case back, water-resistant to 30M

Dial: Hand polished sun-blasted finish enamel surface dial with luminous ink-filled oversized Arabic numbers on its six extended openings.
Strap:Hand stitched Diamond back python cuff with deployment clasp
Price:EUR 495.00 Superstar Classic
EUR 1,190.00 Superstar Sapphires
EUR 2,490.00 Superstar Diamond



Variations:
Superstar Chronograph Diamond - 0.95cts diamonds set on bezel
Superstar Chronograph Sapphire-splash - 0.95cts of six colored sapphires set on bezel
Superstar Chronograph Classic - All stainless steel

The Most Important Vintage Wristwatches (made before 1990) Ever Sold at Auction - by Value

"Platinum World Time" Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, Ref. 1415 HU (Heures Universelles), 1946. Diam. 33mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2002 :US$ 4,,026,,524

“Rose Gold Ref. 2499, First Series”Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1951, 18K gold wristwatch with chronograph, and perpetual calendar. Diam. 38mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in October 2002 : US$ 2,,129,,000

“Ref. 1591” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1944, 18K gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar and indirect center seconds. Diam. 35mm, sold at Phillips, Geneva, in November 2001 : US$ 1,,911,,770

“Officier” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1923, 18K gold wristwatch with single-button splitseconds chronograph. Diam. 32mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in November 1999 : US$ 1,,918,,387

"Ref. 2523 HU" (Heures Universelles) Patek Philippe, Genève, 1953. 18K yellow gold wristwatch with two crowns and polychrome cloisonné enamel dial with map of North America. Diam. 36mm., sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2006 : US$ 2,,899,,373

"Yellow Gold Ref. 2499, First Series" Patek Philippe, Genève, retailed by Asprey, 1952. 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual Calendar and chronograph. Diam. 38mm., sold at Sotheby's, Geneva, in November 2006 : US$ 1,,773,,206

“Stainless Steel Ref. 530” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1939. With square button chronograph. Diam. 37mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2004 : US$ 1,,669,,318

“Rose Gold Ref. 2499, First Series” Patek Philippe, Genève, 1952. 18K gold wristwatch with chronograph, perpetual calendar and tachometer scale. Diam. 38mm, sold at Phillips, Geneva, in November 2002 : US$ 1,,445,,470

“White Ref. 130” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1944, 18K gold wristwatch with square button chronograph.Diam. 33mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2002 : US$ 1,,779,,573

"Rose Gold World Time" Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, Ref. 1415 HU (Heures Universelles),1949, 18K rose gold wristwatch with enamel dial. Diam. 31mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2002 : US$ 1,,678,,963

“Ref. 1563” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1946, 18K gold wristwatch with split-seconds chronograph, counter and tachometer. Diam. 35mm, sold at Phillips, Geneva, in May 2003 : US$ 1,,593,,396

"The Grogan" Patek Philippe & Cie, 1925, gold single-button split seconds chronograph wristwatch, made for a left-handed wearer Dim. 34 x 42mm., sold at Christie's, Geneva, in November 2006 : US$ 1,,945,,040

“Pink Ref. 1505” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, “Calatrava”, 1941, 18K gold wristwatch with triple date “à guichets”. Diam. 32.5mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in November 2000 : US$ 1,,169,,555

“Platinum Minute-Repeater” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1939, gentleman’s wristwatch with perpetual calendar. Diam.31mm, sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 1996:US$ 1,,658,,730

“Platinum Ref. 96” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1929, with two-tone dial and full calendar. Diam. 30mm, sold at Sotheby’s, Geneva, in May 2003 : US$ 1,,549,,300

“Stainless Steel Ref. 1518” Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, 1943, with chronograph, perpetual calendar and moon phase. Diam. 35mm, sold at Dr. H. Crott, Mannheim, in November 2004 : US$ 1,,661,,440



Information Courtesy : Antiquorum

The Most Important Modern Wristwatches (made after 1990) Ever Sold at Auction - by Value

“Tour de I’lle Antiquorum” Vacheron Constantin, Genève, pièce unique, 2005, 18K rose gold wristwatch with 16 complications. Diam. 47mm. Sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, in April 2005 : US$ 1,,413,,000

“Platinum Ref. 3974”Patek Philippe, Genève, platinum self-winding wristwatch with minute repeat, perpetual calendar leap year indication and moon phases. Diam.36mm., sold at Bonham’s, London in May 2006 : US$ 699,,000

“1735 – Grande Complication” Blancpain, No. 27/30, 1990’s, platinum wristwatch with minute-repeat, one-minute tourbillon regulator, round button coaxial split-seconds chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, and moon phases. Diam. 42mm. Sold at Antiquorum, USA in June 2006 : US$ 579,,600

“Limited Edition, No. 1” Audemars Piguet No.1,18K yellow gold wristwatch with one-minute tourbillon and minute repeat. Diam 43mm., sold at Sotheby’s, Hong Kong in October 2002:US$ 461,,568

“Platinum 5013” Patek Philippe, Genève, 1990’s, platinum wristwatch with minute-repeat, retrograde perpetual calendar, leap year indication, and moon phases.Dim. 36 x 46 mm., sold at Antiquorum, USA in December 2005 :US$ 456,,000

“Rose Gold 3974”Patek Philippe, Genève, 1995, 18K rose gold wristwatch with minute-repeat, perpetual calendar and moon phases. Diam. 36mm., sold at Antiquorum, USA, in March 2006 : US$ 457,,900

“Platinum Ref. 3939 HP”Patek Philippe, circa 2000, platinum wristwatch with minuterepeat and one-minute tourbillon regulator. Diam. 34mm., sold at Antiquorum, USA, in June 2006:US$ 434,,000

“Grande Complication”Audemars Piguet, Genève, 2004. platinum wristwatch with minute-repeat, co-axial round button split-seconds chronograph, registers, perpetual calendar, and moon phases. Diam. 42 mm., sold at Antiquorum, USA, in March 2006:US$ 408,,400

"Platinum 5016”Patek Philippe, Genève, 1990’s, platinum wristwatch with minute-repeat, oneminute tourbillon regulator and retrograde perpetual calendar,and moon phases. Diam. 37mm. Sold at Antiquorum, USA in December 2005:US$ 505,,500

"Platinum 5016” Patek Philippe, Genève, platinum wristwatch with minuterepeat,one-minute tourbillon regulator, and retrograde perpetual calendar, and moon phases. Diam. 37mm. Sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in May 2000 :US$ 428,,398

"Platinum 5016” Patek Philippe, Genève, platinum wristwatch with minuterepeat, one-minute tourbillon regulator, retrograde perpetual calendar and moon phases.Diam. 37mm. Sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in April 1998 :US$ 387,,062

Rose Gold “Ref. 5016” Patek Philippe, Genève, 18K rose gold wristwatch with minute-repeat, one-minute tourbillon regulator, retrograde perpetual calendar, and moon phases. Diam. 36mm, sold at Bonham’s, London in November 2006 : US$ 500,,000

"1747 - 1997 -Breguet 250th Anniversary" Breguet, 1997, platinum wristwatch with minute repeat, visible one-minute tourbillon regulator, jump-hours, perpetual calendar with retrograde date and leap-year indication. Diam. 40mm., sold at Antiquorum,USA, in June 2005 : US$ 417,,500

"Rose Gold Ref. 5013" Patek Philippe, Genève, 1994, 18K rose gold wristwatch with minute repeat, perpetual calendar, moon phases, retrograde date and leap year display. Dim. 36 x 46 mm., sold at Antiquorum, USA, in June 2005 :US$ 417,,500

“Yellow Gold Ref. 3939H” Patek Philippe, Genève, Ref. 3939H, 2000, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with minute repeat, one-minute tourbillon regulator and a sapphire crystal back. Diam. 34mm., sold at Antiquorum, Hong Kong, in July 2005 :US$ 417,,040

White Gold Ref. 3979H”Patek Philippe, Genève, 18K white gold wristwatch with minute repeat. Diam. 33 mm., sold at Christie's, Geneva, in May 2006:US$ 426,,360

Information Courtesy : Antiquorum

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka

Created in collaboration with world renowned master watch maker Christophe Claret, the Shabaka grand complication was by JEAN DUNAND Pièces Uniques, houses a breathtaking combination of a minute-repeater on cathedral gongs plus an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a unique display of the dates, phases of the moon and leap-year cycle, as well as an ingenious state-of-wind indicator.

Defining both the personality and the originality of this impressive timepiece are the calendar indications, defying the convention of discs by instead using four cylinders. A quartet of different 90-degree transmission systems rotate the cylinders, each fitted with a security device to ensure precise calendar changes. Distancing the watch even further from the conventional, the dates – via two digits on separate cylinders – days and months jump instantaneously at midnight, when a sprung mechanism is released. A proprietary flywheel mechanism regulated by a train minimizes any shock from the jump action and so prevents premature wear and tear. No lag, no moment of indecision.And no margin of error.

Leap-year cycles merit their own, equally novel indication: a white plate under the dial, in a cut-out on the dial between 7 and 8 o’clock, illuminates the letter B (for “bissextile”) and the three ordinary years. The leap-year is mirrored by the phases of the moon, with black discs skimming over the surface of the moon as if it were the shadow of the earth, eclipsing it to the left as it wanes, and revealing it from the right as it waxes. The mechanical moon deviates from the real moon by only one day every 120 years. Never has the phase of the moon been indicated on any watch with such elegant artistry.
For all the complexity of the calendar indications, the state-of-wind indicator on the back of the watch is deviously simple yet equally original. A single moving part – the mainspring itself in an open barrel – shows the power reserve of the watch against a scale.

Shabaka’s minute-repeater strikes on cathedral gongs that go twice around the movement to give a deeper, more resonant chime. The minute-repeater slide occupies the left of the case, allowing the calendar setting controls to reside on the right. Only two chronograph style pushers are needed to set the entire calendar, the pusher at 4 o’clock advances the date a day at a time, while that at 2 o’clock advances days only. A push-piece set coaxially in the crown advances the months and years, while the moon is set by a push-piece in the case-band at 5 o’clock.
A complex series of levers and rolls insinuate their way around the movement from the pushers to activate the respective calendar indications. The caliber is of a radically original construction, with the perpetual calendar mechanism integrated into the 13-ligne repeating movement.
Emphasizing the stunning geometrical design of the dial, the mesmerizing cylindrical calendar displays are integrated into the Shabaka landscape. This superb piece of engineering exists on four levels composed of a high-tech frame delineating fields of blackened gold set with pyramids of assorted golds. The red hour-markers at 10, 12 and 2 o’clock serve to indicate the day, date and month respectively, against corresponding red triangles in the centre of the dial. Unmistakably and Art Deco-inspired design, with powerful Egyptian influences, the soul of this masterpiece lives in its exotic name – Shabaka, the 25th-dynasty Pharaoh and King of Egypt.
Shabaka has been imagined and realized by Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret, and is manufactured in the Christophe Claret workshops in Le Locle, Switzerland. Both are partners in World Première Watchmaking S.A., custodians of the JEAN DUNAND brand.

The Shabaka watch, their third joint project, follows the Tourbillon Orbital and a Grand Complication wristwatch with 12 fully integrated complications. The 7mm-diameter cylinders are embedded 2.5 millimetres into the level of the minute-repeater to reduce further the thickness of the movement. An anthracite-black finish on the circular-grained baseplate and on the bridges, exquisitely decorated in concentric Geneva stripes, contrasts with burnished steel, ruby and gold to highlight the beauty of the movement. And such beauty is too rare to hide solely for the eyes of the craftsmen who made it. To ensure that the fortunate owner savors every element of the achievement that is Shabaka, the movement and all of its dazzling complexity can be viewed hrough the case-back.


Movement
CALIBRE CLA88QPRM: Manually wound minute-repeater with instantaneous perpetual calendar.

Indications
Minutes and hours hands.
Days, dates and months on cylinders.
Leap-year cycle.
Moon-phases.
State-of-wind, directly by the mainspring.
Repeating the hours, quarters and minutes on two gongs.

Controls
Pushers in the case-band to advance the entire calendar (4 o’clock)
and the days only (2 o’clock).
Push-piece in the crown to set the months and years.
Push-piece in the case-band (5 o’clock) to set the moon.
Repeating slide.

Balance :With adjusting screws on an overcoil spring.
Swan’s neck index.18,000v/h.
Power Reserve :Approximately 45 hours.
Number of parts :721, including 54 jewels.
Movement dimensions :29.5mm (13 lignes).
Calendar plate, 36mm x 3.2mm (14 lignes).
Total height with dial and indications, 12.19mm.

Case
18k white or red gold with a high-tech multilevel dial.
Dimensions, 44mm x 17.65mm.
Water-resistance, 3 ATM (30 metres)

Hands
See-through “Skyscraper” style, in 18k gold

Friday, March 27, 2009

JEAN DUNAND Grande Complication Watch

A brand new manually wound Grande Complication wristwatch, which houses 12 complications and 827 parts, joins the JEAN DUNAND stable of super watches created by Switzerland’s leading watch constructor Christophe Claret, and marketed by his partner Thierry Oulevay.

A true “grand complication” watch gives full expression to the three classical areas of horological complication: the repeater, the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. The JEAN DUNAND Grande Complication does more than qualify for the title, with a tourbillon escapement and retrograde calendar indications as well.
In addition to the tourbillon, Christophe Claret has introduced two novel refinements to improve precision. The first is an isolation device that disconnects the chronograph split-seconds hand from the movement when it is stopped. Without this device, the stopped splitseconds acts as a brake on the movement, affecting its performance.
The other device is a new type of shock-proof bearing that equalizes the amplitude — the degree of swing — of the balance, whether the watch is flat or upright. A specially profiled and off-centred end stone for the balance-pivot creates a slight friction on the balance when the watch is horizontal, bringing the amplitude down to 320°, the same as when it is vertical.
The visible side of the movement reveals the fine finish of the chronograph steel-work, outlined with gleaming chamfered edges. Plenty of sharp points and entrants show the finish is done by hand, for no machine is capable of this refinement. The invisible side of the movement is no less comprehensively and carefully finished. At its hear t is the four-armed notched cam of the minute-repeater that translates the time into the sound of gongs.

Perpetual calendar with retrograde dates and days
Just under the dial, an invisible pattern of wheels, cams and levers computes the varying months of the calendar, not forgetting February 29 every four years. On the dial, the perpetual calendar shows the date, day, month and four-year cycle. Added complications that simplify the calendar display are the retrograde indications for the date and the day. A glance tells you how the month and the week are progressing . At the end of each, the hands fly back to Monday and the first of the month respectively.
 Minute-repeater
The extraordinary mechanism that reads the time and communicates it to you in a code of chimes is the most technically difficult of the great classic complications. Push down the lever in the caseband, and the cams, racks and hammers go into action to tell you the time to the minute. The hours are struck on the first gong , followed by the quarters on two gongs and ending with the minutes on the second gong . Synchronising and controlling this spring-driven engine is one of the highest tests of a watchmaker’s skill.
The Tourbillon
The tourbillon is constructed to demonstrate the high level of workmanship required for the classic tourbillon. The balance vibrates 18,000 times an hour on a balance-spring with a Breguet overcoil to ensure its concentric action. The wheel of the tour billon cage drives the chronograph, transmitting the five-beats-a-second of the balance directly on the 1/5-second scale of the chronograph.
The Split-seconds Chronograph
The chronograph and split seconds are controlled by two columnwheels, each governed by its ow n button. The button at two o’clock rotates its column-wheel to activate the levers that star t, stop and zero both chronograph hands together. The button at 4 o’clock stops the split-seconds hand for an intermediate reading and then makes it catch up with the running chronograph seconds. A third chronograph hand at 3 o’clock on the dial counts each minute the chronograph runs.

Technical details
Movement
Mono-pusher Split-second Chronograph with Isolator, Minute repeater, Tourbillon, Bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Exclusive manually-wound movement created by Christophe Claret, 100% manufactured and assembled in his workshops.
Diameter: : 28.00 mm
Thickness : 10.75 mm
Number of parts : 827
Power reserve of 40 hours

Visible column-wheels.
3 constantly driven logarithmically curved heart pieces.
54 jewels

Functions
Hour, quarter and minute repeater
One minute tourbillon with balance frequency of 18’000 pulsations / hour, with Breguet overcoil to ensure the concentric development of the balance-spring .
Balance amplitude of 320° (constant)
Mono-pusher split-second chronograph.
Split second hand isolator
Chronograph push-piece at 2 o’clock, star t, stop and return.
Split-second push-piece at 4 o’clock, stop and return.
30 minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Date by retrograde hand at 12 o’clock.
Day by retrograde hand at 6 o’clock.
Month and leap year at 9 o’clock.

Finishing
All pieces are angled and polished.
Polished par ts are “polies miroir” by hand.
Revolution pieces are circular-g rained.
Brass and German silver par ts have undergone circular-g raining and electroplating .
Each movement is entirely assembled by the same master-watchmaker.
Time to assemble one movement:120 days

Case, dial and strap
Case diameter: 42 mm
- Red gold case with white dial
- White gold case with black dial
- Red gold case with slate dial
- Red gold case with black dial 
A total of 9 hands
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap.

JEAN DUNAND Pièces Uniques -Tourbillon Orbital Chinese lacquer

The exquisite dial of the Tourbillon Orbital, embellished with geometric shapes and rich Chinese lacquer, is a fitting tribute to the craftsman and Ar t Deco ar tist Jean Dunand, the guiding aesthetic light behind the formidable watchmaking duo formed by Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret.

This unique masterpiece is the quintessence of the founders’ philosophy that combines a passion for métiers d’art - rekindling long lost traditional craft techniques such as the art of lacquering- with revolutionary technology powering this unique tourbillion. Not only does this watch feature a one-minute flying tourbillon that completes a full orbit every sixty seconds, but the entire tourbillon continuously rotates around the dial, completing an entire circle every hour. A watchmaking first and with innumerable technical challenges such as transmission of winding energy to the barrel that is never in one fixed place.
The bold geometric figures and solid colours on the dial celebrate Jean Dunand’s incursion into the abstract geometric style fashionable in the 1920’s. Like the pocket watch cases that were exhibited in those years featuring geometric designs and bright lacquer colours, the stunning application of Chinese lacquer on the Tourbillon Orbital transcends its common use as a protective varnish and becomes an intrinsic, integral part of the decoration.

An ancient technique that is painstaking, unpredictable and extremely complicated to master, Thierry Oulevay invested 2 whole years researching the almost mystical world of lacquer to achieve this splendid dial. The technical challenge included developing novel ways to apply lacquer on the diminutive surface of the dial while respecting the contours of the sharp 90° angles, the circumference of the round window displaying the orbital tourbillion and the tiny cavity of the zigzag rhomboids with millimetrical precision.

A similar kind of passion consumed Swiss craftsman Jean Dunand who revealed his inestimable know-how in the art of dinanderie -or bronze embossing- in exchange for Japanese master lacquer Seizo Sugawara’s millenary secrets of lacquering in 1912. Jean Dunand’s fabulously embossed vases and other ar tistic creations would soon be embellished with this precious resin and his name would become synonymous with the sublime art of lacquering.

Art historians agree that China was the birthplace of the art of lacquering following the discovery of a red lacquer wood bowl dating to the Neolithic period in Zhejiang well over 7,000 years ago. Initially used to protect everyday objects from water, acid and alkaline elements, the art of lacquering came into its golden age with the splendid Han Dynasty (202BC- 220 AD) adorning precious objects for the imperial court and combining coloured lacquer with gold and silver inlays.

The Rhus Vernicifera or lacquer tree occurs naturally in China and has been cultivated for millennia for its sap that is collected by tapping the trees and bleeding them at very precise intervals. Traditionally, the precious liquid is sieved through a fine cloth to remove impurities and left to settle, clarify and separate for several months in a dark, damp, cool environment.

The creation of coloured lacquer is a complex process combining powdered vegetable pigments and Tung oil that are notoriously difficult to blend. But the real challenge lies in applying nature’s wonderful gift. Much like working with liquid honey, lacquer has to be applied slowly and great care exerted to avoid leaving trails or traces in each coat

Traditionally, paintbrushes confected from Chinese human hair were employed because marten hair and other animal origin hair were deemed too thick. The environment has to be impeccably clean because the slightest particle of dust will be embedded for posterity in the lacquer.

In keeping with Jean Dunand’s patronage of métiers d’art, master lacquer painters were selected from one of the very few Western workshops capable of manipulating this wonderful material to execute the lacquering details on the dial of the Tourbillon Orbital. Using the champlevé technique to create a recessed pattern to house the lacquer, troughs or cells are hollowed into the gold base. Once the areas have been clearly demarcated, the lacquer –up to 10 individual coats- is applied layer by layer. Each layer must be perfectly dry before its surface is buffed and smoothed with charcoal and then meticulously polished to acquire its unique lustrous sheen.

The dial of the Tourbillon Orbital features red, grey, rich indigo and black lacquered geometric shapes, each colour emanating a distinct warm luster and depth. True to the Art Deco personality of the dial, the skyscraper hands are skeletal allowing for a clear view of the magnificent canvas.

The diamond hour markers on the chapter ring and the 18-carat rose gold case provide the perfect frame for this sumptuous lacquered dial that sets geometry in mot ion: a formidable and unique artistic accomplishment.

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