Friday, July 31, 2009

CVSTOS High Fidelity Chrono Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand CVSTOS presents High Fidelity Chrono which incorporates a highly sophisticated movement. CVSTOS high performance watches express high tech tenacity and futuristic drama.

A mesmerising matrix of mechanical muscle and slick architectonics, CVSTOS High Fidelity is dedicated to exploring new frontiers while conscientiously cultivating the exquisite craftsmanship and hand finish heritage of traditional watch making.

Technical details
Case
CHALLENGE-R case :Round faceted (decagonal), Ø 50mm,
Materials :Steel or black steel. Polished and satin-finished case
Caseback :Open with sapphire crystal
Crystal :Sapphire, none-reflecting coating 2 faces
Water-resistance :100 meters
Screws :Polished titanium grade 5, exclusive CVSTOS TECHNOLOGY pattern
Crown :Screw-down, polished titanium grade 5, Nitril insert
Push-pieces :Titanium grade 5, polished.

Dial
Sapphire, none-reflective coating, exclusive decoration (customizable counter decor),sapphire discs (transparent counter)
Indexes :Super-Luminova treated
Hands :Pierced, chromed and Super-Luminova treated

Movement
Calibre :CVSTOS 577 Automatic chronograph
Functions :Chronograph, power-reserve indicator, date
Power-reserve :42 hours
Jewels :25
Rotor :Exclusive CVSTOS TUNGSTEN 88 & TITANIUM TECHNOLOGY alloy
Frequency :28,800 vibrations per hour.

Bracelet/Strap
In the same metal as the case, black alligator skin, all in Alcantara® or black rubber
Buckle: Folding clasp

Edition
Limited series 100 pieces in steel and 100 pieces in black steel

Van Cleef & Arpels Watches - Complications poétiques Homme

The art of bringing life to a dial, the jeweler’s sensitivity, aesthetic and technical watch-making prowess. Van Cleef & Arpels has channelled their exceptional know-how towards masculine elegance. Thanks to unique mechanisms and their mastery over precious materials such as the aventurine glass natural mother-of-pearl and baguette-cut diamonds, the craftsmen at Van Cleef & Arpels have created limited edition timepieces.

The crowning achievement of their aesthetic and technical brilliance, some of the pieces contain a visible tourbillon adorned with a Vendôme column, one of the slimmest in the world.Nothing is left to chance in these creations.

Even the back of the watch has been carefully thought out, a slice of genuine meteorites, (Midnight in Paris) and a calendar function can be found.

Models:

1. Midnight Tourbillon Jardins Suspendus
Enamel and diamonds dial
Platinum and diamonds case
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Diameter : 42 mm
Black alligator strap
Diamonds paved folding buckle
356 diamonds ~ 8.05 cts
Unique piece
Power reserve : 40 hours
Mechanical tourbillon movement

2. Midnight Tourbillon Lac
Mother-of-pearl inlay dial
Platinum case
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Diameter : 42 mm
Black alligator strap
Diamonds paved folding buckle
130 diamonds ~ 7.52 cts
Unique piece
Power reserve : 40 hours
Mechanical tourbillon movement

3. Midnight Tourbillon Cashmere
3 dimensional enamel dial
Platinum and baguette diamonds case
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Diameter : 42 mm
Black alligator strap
Diamonds paved folding buckle
130 diamonds ~ 7.52 cts
Unique piece
Power reserve : 40 hours
Mechanical tourbillon movement

4. Midnight in Paris
Rotative (365 days) aventurine dial indicating the position of the stars in the Paris sky
White gold and baguette diamonds case with officer back
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Diameter : 42 mm
Sapphire back with calendar and meteorite
Black alligator strap
White gold pin buckle
96 diamonds ~ 7 cts
Power reserve : 33 hours
Mechanical movement

5. Midnight Tourbillon Exclusive
Baguette diamonds dial with sunburst effect
White gold and baguette diamonds paved case
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Diameter : 42 mm
Black alligator strap
Diamonds paved folding buckle
455 diamonds ~ 30.50 cts
Limited edition
Power reserve : 40 hours
Mechanical tourbillon movement

6.Midnight in Paris
Rotative (365 days) aventurine dial indicating the position of the stars in the Paris sky
Pink gold case with officer back
Sapphire back with calendar and meteorite
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Diameter : 42 mm
Brown alligator strap
Pink gold pin buckle
Power reserve : 33 hours
Mechanical movement

Bremont To Produce Limited Edition Watch For Norton

Norton, one of the worlds most iconic motorcycle brands, has approached Bremont to produce a limited edition watch with them. The British motorcycle manufacturer, is one of the motorcycle industries most famous names. The brand, responsible for unrivalled success at the Isle of Man TT races and its legendary ‘Featherbed’ frame design is now proud to be based at Donnington in the UK and will be releasing the new Commando model later this year. The Bremont ‘Norton’ will be available from Autumn this year.

Bertolucci STRIA

In its Distinction collection, Bertolucci focuses on the elegance, the purity of the lines and a subtle refinement. All of the models in the collection express the brand’s creativity, innovative shapes and style: Sophisticated to glamorous, always emphasizing perfection, grace and beauty. Whatever the mood, the imagination is inspired in quest of novelty and beauty, which takes us to the magical world of softness and ultimate elegance, satisfying all expectations.
Perfectly sized and slender, with harmonious curves, fine and elegant, STRIA is already a great classic which reinvents the magical universe of the Mediterranean. Set delicately upon a satin bracelet, the case is decorated with refined ripples, like a shell reflecting a soft and silky light. Beautiful, luminous and as radiant as the sun’s rays, STRIA evokes the incomparable atmosphere of the Italian Riviera. Pure with a subtle uniqueness, STRIA is a timeless and delicate collection, appropriate for any sensual and elegant woman. Truly a “treasure”, STRIA is the perfect choice to accompany your evening wear as well as an ideal adornment for the wrist of any woman in search of daily sophistication.
A true multi-generation treasure, STRIA offers an exceptional choice of lively and fancy variations in 2009 to match the most original desires. New seasonal creations playing with bright colours and stylish motifs enhance the ultimate elegance of its sleek case and refined décor.
STRIA “Art Deco”, inspired by the trends of the thirties, daringly opts for an extravagant combination of apple green with rose gold and rubies.STRIA “Arabesque” invites you to be inspired by its motif adorned with nearly 30 diamonds to animate the sober elegance of white and the softness of mother-of-pearl. Inspired by the beauty of heavenly constellations, both STRIA “Cosmic” and STRIA “Starry” conjure up the magic of the finest Mediterranean nights. In a subtle and original décor, STRIA “Cosmic” features 23 diamonds in orbit, either on a trendy purple dial or on a pure white one. STRIA “Starry” plays with stars from every angle: applied indexes set with diamonds, mat finishing on the dial, hot-stamped on the strap, together, creating a glamour rock style.

With a new, fresh and trendy look, STRIA “Flowers marries the 2009 fashion trends of purple with the very classical and feminine flowered motif. Adorned with diamonds to highlight the shape of its case or embellish its ornamental lines, the ripples of STRIA’s “shell” continue to shimmer with a thousand lights while playing with colours and trends.

STRIA “Art Deco” (Reference 723.50.67.3.3DG.R10)
Case
18Kt 5N rose gold, Full cut diamonds in FGH colour and VVS clarity
Size; Round, 39.70 mm diameter, 7.80 mm thickness
Finishing: Shell pattern set with 162 diamonds – 0.70 carat
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM) – 100 feet
Case back: Screw-on with 4 screws

Functions 
Hours & Minutes; Time setting by a corrector on the case back (no crown)

Dial
Light green with rose gold applied metallic “Art Déco” décor and 4 full cut rubies set – 0.02 carat, “BERTOLUCCI” printed in brown at 12 o’clock
Hands : Dauphine polished & fine-brushed, rose gold plated

Movement
Swiss Quartz Watch, caliber ETA 47/8 E01.701 (battery life ≈ 49 months)

Bracelet
Apple green technological satin strap on 18Kt rose gold pin buckle

STRIA “Arabesque” (Reference 723.50.67.3.EA1.R00)
Case
18Kt 5N rose gold.Full cut diamonds in FGH colour and VVS clarity
Size: Round, 39.70 mm diameter, 7.80 mm thickness
Finishing: Shell pattern set with 162 diamonds – 0.70 carat
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM) – 100 feet
Case back: Screw-on with 4 screws

Functions 
Hours & Minutes; Time setting by a corrector on the case back (no crown)

Dial
White mother-of-pearl with printed “Arabesque” décor set with 28 full cut diamonds – 0.09 carat, “B” and “BERTOLUCCI” printed in black at 12 o’clock
Hands : Dauphine polished & fine-brushed, rose gold plated

Movement
Swiss Quartz Watch, caliber ETA 47/8 E01.701 (battery life ≈ 49 months)

Bracelet
White technological satin strap on 18Kt rose gold pin buckle

STRIA “Cosmic” (Reference 723.50.67.3.ECA.R0V)
Case
18Kt 5N rose gold. Full cut diamonds in FGH colour and VVS clarity
Size: Round, 39.70 mm diameter, 7.80 mm thickness
Finishing: Shell pattern set with 162 diamonds – 0.70 carat
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM) – 100 feet

Case back: Screw-on with 4 screws

Functions 
Hours & Minutes; Time setting by a corrector on the case back (no crown)

Dial
Purple with printed “Cosmic” décor set with 23 full cut diamonds – 0.09 carat, “B” at 12 o’clock and “BERTOLUCCI” at 6 o’clock printed in white
Hands :Dauphine polished & fine-brushed, rose gold plated

Movement
Swiss Quartz Watch, caliber ETA 47/8 E01.701 (battery life ≈ 49 months)

Bracelet
Purple technological satin strap on 18Kt rose gold pin buckle

STRIA “Starry” (Reference 723.50.67.8.37ED.R01)
Case
18Kt 5N rose gold.Full cut diamonds in FGH colour and VVS clarity
Size: Round, 39.70 mm diameter, 7.80 mm thickness
Finishing: Shell pattern set with 278 diamonds – 1.13 carat
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM) – 100 feet
Case back: Screw-on with 4 screws

Functions 
Hours & Minutes; Time setting by a corrector on the case back (no crown)

Dial
Black opalin with rose gold metallic applied “Starry” décors set with 12 full cut diamonds – 0.05 carat, “B” and “BERTOLUCCI” printed in white at 12 o’clock
Hands: Dauphine polished & fine-brushed, rose gold plated

Movement
Swiss Quartz Watch, caliber ETA 47/8 E01.701 (battery life ≈ 49 months)

Bracelet
Black technological satin strap with “Starry” motif, hot stamped, on 18Kt rose gold pin buckle

STRIA “Cosmic” (Reference 723.50.67.8.EC0.R00)
Case
18Kt 5N rose gold.Full cut diamonds in FGH colour and VVS clarity
Size: Round, 39.70 mm diameter, 7.80 mm thickness
Finishing: Shell pattern set with 274 diamonds – 1.26 carat
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM) – 100 feet

Case back: Screw-on with 4 screws

Functions 
Hours & Minutes; Time setting by a corrector on the case back (no crown)

Dial
White with grey printed “Cosmic” décor set with 23 full cut diamonds – 0.09 carat, “B” at 12 o’clock and “BERTOLUCCI” at 6 o’clock printed in black
Hands : Dauphine polished & fine-brushed, rose gold plated

Movement
Swiss Quartz Watch, caliber ETA 47/8 E01.701 (battery life ≈ 49 months)

Bracelet
White technological satin strap on 18Kt rose gold pin buckle

STRIA “Flowers” (Reference 723.50.67.8.EFA.R0V)
Case
18Kt 5N rose gold.Full cut diamonds in FGH colour and VVS clarity
Size: Round, 39.70 mm diameter, 7.80 mm thickness
Finishing: Shell pattern set with 278 diamonds – 1.13 carat
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM) – 100 feet
Case back: Screw-on with 4 screws

Functions 
Hours & Minutes; Time setting by a corrector on the case back (no crown)

Dial
Purple with printed “Flowers” décor set with 5 full cut diamonds – 0.02 carat, “B” and “BERTOLUCCI” printed in white at 12 o’clock
Hands : Dauphine polished & fine-brushed, rose gold plated

Movement
Swiss Quartz Watch, caliber ETA 47/8 E01.701 (battery life ≈ 49 months)

Bracelet
Purple technological satin strap on 18Kt rose gold pin buckle

Nautica Watches - NST Yachtimer

Nautica strengthens its premier racing watch - the NST Yachtimer - with a sporty, integrated strap and fire red racing details on the reflector ring and pushers. A black matte finish on the unidirectional bezel ring is designed to cut down on sun glare and frame the countdown “markers” to bring the action into focus.



The fourth pusher and feature function of the NST Yachtimer is a yachting-mode adjustable countdown timer that allows the user to choose the time to be counted down from 10 minutes to one minute to fit the format of any race. Beepers sound to alert the user at each countdown interval. Yachtimer feature a 48mm case size, water resistance to 100M and a 12-hour alarm with repeat function. It also features a 96-hour chronograph and Swiss movement.

Vacheron Constantin presents the first-ever one-of-a-kind Quai de l’Ile model dedicated to the ONLY WATCH 2009 charity auction

On the occasion of ONLY WATCH 2009, organised on behalf of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy, Vacheron Constantin makes its first-ever introduction of a watch made from tantalum.This one-of-kind Quai de l’Ile model, testifying to the latest technological breakthroughs from the Geneva-based manufacturer, will be presented at the charity auction to be held in Monaco on September 24th 2009.

In a fascinating new sequel to the official launch of the new Quai de l’Ile collection in Geneva at the April 2008 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Vacheron Constantin now presents the first-ever one-of-a-kind Quai de l’Ile model. Dedicated to the ONLY WATCH 2009 charity auction that will take place in Monaco on September 24th, this unique watch features a tantalum case also representing a major first in the history of the Geneva-based manufacturer.



Not only had Vacheron Constantin never yet made a watch in tantalum, but its original dial was also the object of cutting-edge research conducted by the Vacheron Constantin teams, thereby ensuring the unique nature of this model specially intended to raise funds for the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy.

While Vacheron Constantin had thus far used the entire range of precious metals to be found within the watch industry, including palladium which also appears on the sides and crown of the ONLY WATCH ’09 model, many long months of technical development were required to create the tantalum case with its revolutionary construction consisting of seven main elements and enabling a successful alliance between the two metals.



The semi-transparent dial of the Quai de l’Ile provides a spectacular plunging view of the complex mechanism of Calibre 2460 bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva and entirely developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. Above all, it stems from an association between the world of watchmaking and that of the ultra-secret, incredibly sophisticated Security Printing technologies such as are used for banknotes and passports, resulting in an unprecedented combination of engraving, metallization and special inks.

On this unique model, the following message of support appears around the minute circle:
“Monaco, September 24th 2009, hand in hand with the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies Vacheron Constantin supports scientific and medical research to provide children with Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a better quality of life.”



The Quai de l’Ile collection, embodying a new dimension in Fine Watchmaking,
is united here with tantalum, a metal widely used in the aeronautical and medical industries.These two powerful symbols of the spirit of constant research and innovation that prevailed throughout the project development phase inspired the Vacheron Constantin teams in conceiving and crafting this one-of-a-kind creation for the ONLY WATCH auction. They are indeed the very qualities needed by the scientists seeking to find therapeutic treatments for a disease that is still incurable and affects tens of thousands of children around the world.

Technical details:
Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile
Only Watch 2009 one-of-a-kind creation
Date: self-winding
Reference: 86050/000M9560

CASE
Material: tantalum, 950 palladium
Dimensions: 41.00 x 50.50 mm, 12.90 mm thick
Strap width: 23.00 mm
Shape and construction: cambered rectangle, modular construction
Back: transparent, sapphire crystal, screwed-down
Finishing: satin-brushed
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating on under side, convex
Water resistance: 3 Atm, equivalent to a depth of 30 meters

DIAL AND HANDS
Dial material: sapphire crystal
Finishing: sapphire crystal; galvanic growth of nickel, metallization, laser engraving and inking
Hours : 3,6,9 and 12: galvanic growth of nickel, rhodium layer
1,2,4,5,7,8,10 and 11: engraving and black or white engraving
Material and type of hands: hours and minutes: satin-finished 18K white gold with white luminescent material;
seconds: satin-brushed pfinodal

MOVEMENT
Reference 2460H410QH, Hallmark of Geneva
Rhodiumed snail-shaped outer ring
Energy: mechanical, self-winding
Diameter and thickness: 25.60 mm , 5.70 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: approximately 43 hours
Indications: central hour, minute and seconds hands
Additional functions: date disc featuring optimal readability

OTHER ELEMENTS
Strap: black hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled, ultra-shiny alligator leather
Delivered with an additional strap in black vulcanised rubber
Clasp: palladium triple-blade folding clasp with polished half Maltese cross.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Van Cleef & Arpels Watches - Complications poétiques Femme

Born from the imagination of Van Cleef & Arpels and created to enhance the beauty of gestures and to trigger perpetual wonder, the concept of a poetic complication has endowed fine watch-making with a new dimension. In this spirit, technical complexity is at the service of aesthetics. Behind each curved-out mirror, characters come alive as if by magic, motifs are created; they evolve or change according to the time or seasons.

Each dial is thus transformed into a scene from a fairytale. This enchanting interpretation of time offers hand-enamelled and hand-painted design upon which to read time. These sublime showcases marry various themes: fairies, stars, seasons, designed by Van Cleef & Arpels' master watch-makers and jewelers.
Lady Arpels Féérie

Models

1. Lady Arpels Opéra
Enamel rotative (365 days) dial.White gold and diamonds case.Sapphire crystal.Water resistant to 3 ATM.Diameter : 38 mm.Satin strap.Diamonds paved pin buckle.183 diamonds ~ 2.75 cts.Power reserve : 33 hours.Mechanical movement.

2. Midnight Tourbillon
Caresse d’Eole.Enamel dial guilloché and diamonds.Platinum case.Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 ATM.Diameter : 42 mm.Black alligator strap.Diamonds paved folding buckle.154 diamonds ~ 7.76 cts.Unique piece.Power reserve : 40 hours. Mechanical tourbillon movement.

3. Lady Arpels Océanide
Rotative (365 days) enamel dial.White gold and diamonds case.Sapphire crystal.Water resistant to 3 ATM.Diameter : 36 mm.Satin strap.Diamonds paved pin buckle.182 diamonds ~ 2.50 cts. Power reserve : 33 hours. Mechanical movement.

4. Lady Arpels Féérie
Enamel dial guilloché with diamonds.White gold and diamonds case.Sapphire crystal.Water-resistant to 3 ATM.Diameter : 38 mm.Satin strap.Diamonds paved pin buckle.183 diamonds ~ 2.75 cts.Power reserve : 39 hours.Mechanical retrograde movement.

5. Lady Arpels Jour et Nuit
Rotative (24 hours) aventurine dial set with yellow sapphires and diamonds.White gold and diamonds case.Sapphire crystal.Water-resistant to 3 ATM.Diameter : 38 mm. Blue alligator bracelet.Diamonds paved pin buckle.55 sapphires ~ 0.26 ct and.306 diamonds ~ 5.50 cts.Power reserve : 72 hours. Automatic movement

CLERC GENEVE - Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon

Swiss luxury watch maker Clerc presents The Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon, a strictly limited series of 28 watches. Driving hour, minute, retrograde date and power-reserve display functions, the exclusive Clerc movement sets the scene for a tourbillon with bridges that are visible through an openworked dial. This sleekly sophisticated model is designed to trigger great horological thrills for great maritime depths.

Clerc Genève already caused a sensation at Baselworld this spring with the ultra sophisticated Hydroscaph diver‟s watch. Inspired by the conquest of sea-beds, it is equipped with lateral reinforcements and a helium valve enabling it to descend smoothly to the depths of the world‟s oceans. The Geneva-based brand is now back with a new and extremely spectacular version of this model: the Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon. This precious and timely epitome of technical fine watchmaking is a passport to spine-tingling adventures.
As well as being packed with technology, the new Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon is precious in more than one respect, starting with its „engine‟, an exclusive hand-wound tourbillon movement equipped with twin barrels guaranteeing a 120-hour power reserve. This remarkable autonomy is exceptional for a diver‟s watch and avoids any need to handle the crown while in water.

This exclusive 60-second Clerc Tourbillon movement meets the highest standards of Swiss fine watchmaking and drives the hours, minutes, the retrograde date display at 1:30 and the power-reserve indicator at 5 o‟clock. The extremely contemporary openworked dial conceals nothing of the high-precision mechanism, while the S-shaped hollowed vertical tourbillon bridge echoes the scooped-out hour and minute hands. Meanwhile, the numerals and hour-markers are engraved on the inside of the glareproofed sapphire crystal to ensure perfect readability.
The precious nature of the new Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon also stems from its exterior. Its generous 49.6 mm case in 18-carat rose gold and black titanium is so complex that it called for more than 75 parts and a brand-new set of construction specifications. Water-resistant to 500 metres, it is fitted with lugs enabling a perfect fit on all wrist sizes and even over a diving suit. However, the most innovative new feature of this model is its rotating bezel with a roller-knob at 10 o‟clock serving to pivot and lock the bezel to the required position. The whole is further secured by unique lateral protective guards that thus avoid any accidental shift in position while diving.

The sophisticated, purebred Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon is in a sphere beyond time, much like the man who created it. While Gérald Clerc, representing the fourth generation at the head of the brand created in 1874, has undoubtedly inherited the know-how and the passion of his forefathers, he has also carved out a niche for himself within the select circle of creative contemporary watchmakers. Instead of waiting for the future to catch up with him, he is already tracing it with watches imbued with breakthrough features stemming from state of-the-art research in the fields of space and aquatic exploration.

Henri Duvoisin Watches - Brand Info

Henri Duvoisin is a Swiss traditional watch brand whose origins can be traced back to 1904 when a Belgian watchmaker named Paul-Fritz Duvoisin opened a watch-making factory in the rue des Tilleuls.

Les Geneveys-sur-Coffrane
For more than 500 years, the inhabitants of Les Geneveys-sur-Coffrane had earned their livelihood from agriculture and livestock breeding. Then in 1860 the new railway linking Neuchâtel to Le Locle aroused this sleepy little village located in the Val de Ruz. The local authorities realized that a prosperous village must also depend on secondary activities, and resolutely opted for industrialization. They started looking for outside investors, but were also willing to contribute financially from village funds. They made available a building site opposite the station for a watch-making venture. The newspapers published requests for industrial sites.

Competition between villages was rife, and the increasingly higher offers made the prospective manufacturers greedy. In addition to the land, the developers wanted building materials, and even the building itself. The total cost would amount to Fr.90’000. On 9 May 1894, after 2 years of bargaining, the Geneveys-sur-Coffrane town council proposed a credit of Fr.30’000 in addition to the development of the water supply and access roads, etc. The final agreement was signed in the offices of Frédéric Soguel, a Cernier notary. Five years later, the manufacturer became insolvent and was eventually declared bankrupt. His successor, Emile Perrenoud, was granted a loan of Fr.25’000 voted by the local council, by 9 votes to 4! Hope faded after a 2-year trial period. Confusion and dismay were widespread.

The arrival of the Duvoisin’s
At that time, the village was home to a brewery, a herbalist’s shop, a pasta factory, two dial factories, one spring factory and a furniture factory… However, a new investor, a watchmaker from Courtelary (BE) began to show interest. He commenced negotiations with the village authorities in 1903, enquiring about the basic infrastructure and, having obtained sufficient guarantees, opened a watch-making factory in 1904, in the rue des Tilleuls.

This new investor was Paul-Fritz Duvoisin, born on 6 August 1854, husband of Emma née Chodat. He worked together with his son Henri-Paul (1882-1947), who took over the business on his father’s death in 1912.

Image:From left to right : Berthe Duvoisin (Paul’s daughter), Henri (Paul’s son), Emma née Chodat (Paul’s wife) and Paul Duvoisin
They manufactured pocket watches with a visible balance wheel and during the First World War also worked for the Army, manufacturing ammunition (shell noses). In this connection, he was granted a derogation of the labour laws enabling the factory to work overtime in 1916 and 1917. His son Henri settled down well in the area and married. In later years he remarried, his second wife being Sophie-Elisabeth L’Eplattenier (1896-1980). In 1921, he moved his factory to a new site rue de l’Horizon (in the New Quarter). Two extensions would be added to this plant – in 1927 and later in 1946.
Henri Duvoisin & Co. employed workers both in the workshop and at home; the majority of the employees were from the villages of Les Geneveys-suf-Coffrane or from Coffrane. From 1921 to 1955 the main activity of the Duvoisin factory was the assembly of movements; the factory also worked for Luxor, fitting clock cases with a 22-line movement. In 1946, one year before his death, Henri took his two sons, René (1922-2003) and André (1925-2004), into the business.

After his death in 1947, Henri’s wife Sophie-Elisabeth née L’Eplattenier took over the business in association with the two sons, under the new name Veuve Henri Duvoisin & Co. Either the individual signature of this lady entrepreneur, or the joint signatures of the two brothers, both of whom held powers of attorney, were binding for the company.

This incredibly capable lady was both strong and courageous. She rarely showed any feelings and strongly disliked any signs of effusiveness, devoting all her time and energy to managing the watch-making factory. On the other hand, she did not remain indifferent to the world around her, and in 1948 she created a welfare fund in favour of the employees of Veuve Henri Duvoisin & Co. The aim was to help the workers and employees face up to the financial consequences of unemployment, old age, ill health, accident, death or other situations which could potentially leave them destitute through no fault of their own. A governing board of three members administered this fund, which was finally liquidated in 2006.
In 1965 the two companies Valruz and Albona Watch were founded – Valruz supplying the Scandinavian market while Albona Watch traded with Latin America.

Sophie Elisabeth retired in 1975 at the age of 79. Her retirement however would only last five years. In 1975 René left the company while André remained in sole charge until 1966. In 1970 the company name was changed to Henri Duvoisin & Co., Valruz and Albona Watch, in Les Geneveys sur-Coffrane. Sophie-Elizabeth left the company to her son, André.

Family businesses sometimes outlast the family. With the passing of André Duvoisin in 2004, however, it seemed that Henri Duvoisin & Co. was finished. And, it would have been, if it were not for an old friend of the family.



Jean- Dominique Cornu , a client and a friend, Cornu was persuaded by André into taking the reigns of the company. Collaborating with professional photographer Jean-Marc Breguet and gemmologist Sebastien Rousseau, Cornu has sought to maintain the brand’s historical roots, classical tradition, small size and unique appeal.

Henri Duvoisin & Co. has recently unearthed movements manufactured by Fabrique d’Ebauches de Fleurier, a factory famed for its production of fundamental movements in the 1920s. With Rousseau’s experience working with antique movements, Cornu’s team plans to base its company on this tradition. Together they produce two collections: the Classical and the Regulatory, running in limited editions of 35 and 25 respectively. Each comes in either steel or rose gold.
Henri Duvoisin Regulator Watch
Michel Capt-Horologist/Jeweller
Located at an altitude of 1000 m in the western corner of Switzerland, the Vallée de Joux is a genuine natural gem, set in the midst of lakes, pasturelands and forests. It is in this valley, birthplace of the worldwide renowned prestige and complication watch industry that Michel Capt’s passion for top-quality horology saw the light of day.

Born and bred in the area, Michel Capt was admitted to the Vallée de Joux Technical School in 1987, at the age of 16. He obtained his CFC diploma in watch repairing in 1991. That same year he joined Breguet Watches, where he accomplished a year’s training in timing and rating before joining the former Victorin Piguet workshop, in the capacity of watchmaker specialising in striking and chronograph mechanisms. It was here that he learned to construct the complicated components “by hand” and also participated in the development and production of an equation watch. In 1996, Michel Capt moved into the Breguet Watch technical department and prototype workshop in L’Abbaye, to work on the patent for a “linear” date model with simultaneous year change. One year later he joined the technical department of Nouvelle Lemania with the task of updating the designs of the Breguet brand. At the same time, he commenced training as HES watch designer at the Neuchâtel Cantonal Engineering School.

Apart from his experience with well-known watchmakers from the Vallée de Joux, as from 2000 Michel Capt spent almost two years in the Roger Dupuis factory where he completed his training as a watch designer and where, for his diploma, he created an 8-day movement with indication of the power reserve. He later made several additions to this piece, such as a one-push-piece chronograph, complete date… In October 2001, in order to propose high quality service in a watch making area such as the Vallée de Joux, Michel Capt and his wife set up a watchmaker’s and jeweller’s shop in the Grand Rue in Le Sentier, offering at the same time customised solutions via their several workshops.

At the same time, and until 2003, Michel Capt spent part of his time in the technical office of the Dubois-Dépraz company in Le Lieu, which enabled him to pursue his passion for design and development. Currently, Michel Capt gives several hours of classes in the theory of horology at the Vallée de Joux Technical School.

The Michel Capt family business is continuously expanding, and includes professionals both in the watch-making shop, in the jeweller’s and in the engraving business. This outstanding team is ready to respond to the needs of individual local customers, as well as to those of the renowned watch makers throughout Switzerland. Whether it is for a large series or for one individual part, each piece is made with the same passion for perfection. In fact, it is on account of the importance attached to the craftsman’s know-how that the chamfer filers produce such high quality work, as in the past, and in keeping with by-gone tradition. They also carry out a vast variety of watch making-related tasks, from the design of movements or of striking & chronograph mechanisms, to the assembly of modules & movements, or the pre-assembly or reconditioning of parts, all carried out with the greatest care and precision by qualified watch makers.

It is only over a number of years that Michel Capt has achieved his dream « Quality, know how, passion & authenticity », which has become the credo of this watch making specialist from the Vallée de Joux. And it is precisely with this credo firmly in mind that he brings his know-how to the « Henri Duvoisin » product line.

Contact details
Henri Duvoisin & Cie
C/O VALRUTECH SARL
GRANDE RUE 16A,
C.P. 135 - 2054
CHEZARD
SWITZERLAND

Official website :http://www.henriduvoisin.com

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Antoine Preziuso-B-Side

30 years of independence and 250 years of know-how as a watchmaker. Based on this experience, Antoine Preziuso decided in 2008 to offer a new interpretation of the watch and highlight the hidden side of time. The watch, as we know, is one of the few jewels of the man and it is in this aspect that B-side will be given first and foremost .

Its aesthetic «overwhelming» expresses a different approach to life, the question of the time display is secondary - nowadays time is recalled in all objects of our everyday life: cell phones, computers and so on.

B-Side, another in-house patented system,from Antoine Preziuso a deployant and reversible watch inspired after the old vinyl discs. B-Side by Antoine Preziuso is the watch that you can totally deploy, transform, and reverse while it is on your wrist so you can enjoy the pleasure of wearing your B-Side, the movement side of you tourbillon or automatic timepiece.

Too often hidden, the movement becomes the main player in this staging. And when the owner could not resist a peek at the indication of time passing, pressing simple on secret pusher, offers an astonishing transformation. The watch opens, unfolds and turns without leaving the wrist. The traditional face with hands is revealed. B-side offers a fascinating journey throughout space and time.

This avant-garde concept allowed by not less than 16000 hours of research and development is manufactured in titanium. Discovered in 1791, the titanium is a ultralight high mechanical strength metal. It is one of the most biocompatible material, with the gold and platinum. Because of the quality of its composition, it is increasingly used in industry and in particular the automotive industry, as well as geothermal and biomedical technology.

As for «The star of the show» Antoine Preziuso uses movement fully decorated and engraved by hand, in a limited series. Each movement will be a unique interpretation, and an automatic version is in preparation as well. B-Side is casing either a tourbillon movement, or an automatic Haut de Gamme Swiss movement, entirely hand decorated holding a manufactured custom rotor.

The face side shows a very contemporary dial decorated with the famous «Côtes de Genève», as well as big numbers that will light up in the dark thanks to their SuperLuminova.

Technical data
Case: Titanium deployant and reversible case. Patent pending.
Movement: Tourbillon AP T21 caliber or Automatic high quality 2892 totally hand-engraved and black gold coated.
Strap: Full grain alligator.

Tonino Lamborghini Watches -Brand profile,History and products

A unique spirit permeates every product conceived, designed, and created by Tonino Lamborghini. He possesses the ability to innovate, yet remain faithful to tradition shapes that are elegant and bold at the same time.This passionate quest captures the ineffaceable heritage of Italian Style in the world and speaks the inimitable language of creativity, innovation, elegance and technique. This passion is the driving force behind the collections bearing the Tonino Lamborghini name. In the design, in the search for details, in the desire that only a prestigious brand can awaken. Collections conceived for men and women of character, who refuse to go unnoticed.

The success of a brand has its raison d’etre in its history. The stages throughout its progression towards success let one develop an understanding of the reasons behind its evolution and growth.

In 1981 Tonino Lamborghini designed and branded his first watch. Reinterpreting the historical values and the symbolism which characterise his family, Tonino Lamborghini gave life to a new prestige brand. Drawing inspiration from his previous experiences in the field of engineering and design, he extended the concept of luxury to products capable of evoking a world made up of fashion, technology and innovation: watches, sunglasses, perfumes, leather accessories, furnishing items and clothing lines created from the most sort after, high quality materials; a coordinated universe of complimenting stylish items, which express ‘Puro Talento Italiano’. The creative spirit and the passion for design and technology were the values that Tonino Lamborghini knew how to transform into his own style, a style synonymous with originality, luxury, appreciated around the world for that typically Italian spirit that manages to render everything unique. Gritty, passionate,elegant: Tonino Lamborghini incarnates the power of the ‘made in Italy’ concept worldwide.

In 1983, after success in the Italian market with the first collections of branded accessories, Tonino Lamborghini decided with great foresight to aim at the Asian market, opening the first monobrand shop in Hong Kong. Since that time, the value of the brand has been extended considerably, becoming a strongly recognised and appreciated brand, with 15 flagship stores between Hong Kong and Macau and numerous corners and shop-in-shops in the main Chinese cities. In 1991, Tonino Lamborghini, who holds an honorary engineering degree conferred upon him by New York University, planned the first electric golf cart model and created a line of apparel and sporting accessories that assure high game performance to those who want to continue to wear ‘Puro Talento Italiano’ in their free time.

Half way through the ‘90s, with the innovative style that always distinguishes him from the others, Tonino Lamborghini was among the first brands to launch his own line of high gastronomy: high quality coffee, the best and most representative wines and gastronomic delicacies, such as extra - virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, pastas and sauces, all the products are expression of the prestigious Italian culinary tradition, guaranteed by the Tonino Lamborghini brand. The success enjoyed by this line of delicacies and the significant brand appeal opened the doors for the realisation of a true network of Tonino Lamborghini coffee lounges in 2000. The locales are characterised by a captivating and evocative architectural style firmly rooted in the history of the brand, with welcoming and elegant atmospheres where the qualitative excellence of the menu and service are a must. In 1997 Tonino Lamborghini restored the Palazzo del Vignola, a C1500 villa on the outskirts of Bologna, to its original beauty, and today it remains the central headquarters of the company where the design and fashion creations from the Tonino Lamborghini Design Studio take life. Started internally within the central headquarters of the company as the planning entity for the Tonino Lamborghini creations, the ‘Centro Stile’ offers consultation to all the Group’s partners, in the varying phases from conception to design and engineering of new products. The main task for the ‘Centro Stile Tonino Lamborghini’ is therefore that of defining the guidelines of the future Tonino Lamborghini collections for all the Group’s partners.

Since 1981, a constant growth in terms of prestige and revenue, for a brand that has exported its values and the excellence of its products at the international level. With over 15,000 POS, today Tonino Lamborghini carries its distribution at a world level that touches the 5 continents, with a concentration in the major European cities and in the Asian capitals. Among the most important projects in 2007, we remind you of the important deal signed with Retailcorp, a company in Dubai which is the leader in its retail and restaurant sector, for the creation of over 30 Tonino Lamborghini branded locales, ‘caffès’ and restaurants, which will be built in some of the most luxury and prestigious hotels and shopping centres in the Middle East. The recent openings include two Caffè Corsas in Dubai, one near Times Square Centre and the other in the prestigious and imposing Dubai Mall, and a third in the Khalidiyah Mall of Abu Dhabi.

2008 saw the launches of the new apparel collection “Tonino Lamborghini Sportswear”, composed of outerwear, trousers, shirts and highest quality knitwear, and the “Tonino Lamborghini Shoes” collection, classic and sporting shoes for men and women. Both the collections are expressions of “Puro Talento Italiano” for a dynamic, modern, sporting man who is attentive to the latest trends. Another new event is the creative project “Ferruccio JR”, created by Ferruccio Lamborghini, official racer for Aprilia in the 125 class (ISC 2008). A collection with a dynamic and comfortable design, metropolitan and sporty, technical and safe, for a young target which wants to express his own passion for bikes.

Tonino Lamborghini Watches
Launched in 2008 SPYDER, for men, and CORSA, for women, are two new Tonino Lamborghini branded watches, capable of evoking the brand’s values due to their stylistic detailing. SPYDER, the new watch line model from Tonino Lamborghini was launched at Basel world 2008.

The Tonino Lamborghini Centro Stile has created a watch of refined design, cabale of express ‘Puro Talento Italiano’ and evoking all the values which characterise the history of the brand, from the shape of the case to the materials of which it is composed, from its name to its colours. Every detail is inspired by passion for speed and mechanics: the subdials, for example, recall a speedometer, while the perforated leather strap pays homage to the seats of sportscars. The SPYDER is a model which has been conceptualised for the man who highlights, with attention to small details, his own unique, unusual and typically Italian style.

At Baselworld 2008, the women’s version of the SPYDER model was also presented, known as the CORSA.Inspired by the world of motors, like many famous Tonino Lamborghini branded collections, the Centro Stile has united the elegance of the details, the choice of materials and the sobriety of colours to render this watch an indispensable fashion accessory for a strong woman of character.The SPYDER & CORSA models are watches created both in chronograph and Time Only versions.

The 1966 model is the most known product in the Tonino Lamborghini Watches line. It comprises all the legendary image of the brand and it is for this reason that it has become a true example of technical mastery and design creation branded Tonino Lamborghini. The 1966 is an automatic watch created in both chronograph and Time Only versions. It has a 3-piece titanium case, the dial is composed of two levels with honeycombing weave inspired by the air grills of classic sports cars, while the bezel was given the same chromatic treatment as the cylinder head covers of high performance engines. It is in these details that the great personality of all 1966 models can be seen, made with satin finish cases, non-reflective Sapphire Glass and desirable automatic Eta 2824 and Valjoux 7750 mechanisms. Every watch, waterproof to 200metres and with a leather watch strap, is sold in a special display case in the signature orange colour enamelled wood, and contains a spare rubber wrist strap and Allen key.

At Baselworld 2009 trade expo Tonino Lamborghini presented two brand new models: MESH & GT1. The names and the original design of Mesh and GT1 evoke the passion for speed and engines, which represent the characterising values of the historical Bolognese brand. The particular details confer a strong personality to all the Mesh and GT1 models, created with a stainless steel case, Swiss chronograph movement, sapphire crystal. Each watch has several colour versions in the special leather couvette packaging; for the Mesh collection the box also contains two interchangeable rubber and leather straps.

Official website : http://www.lamborghini.it

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

HAUTLENCE HLQ Collection

Since its inception, the HAUTLENCE brand, based in the heart of Neuchâtel, has set its sights on creating innovative watchmaking concepts and bringing them together with contemporary design. Inspired by the architecture of shapes, the new HLQ line demonstrates in form and mechanical function the extent to which company’s avant-garde creativity is constantly brought into play. A real watchmaking Manufacture exists primarily through its capacity to keep on producing calibres that differ from their predecessors. Attuned to its various markets, HAUTLENCE has clearly understood that it is not enough just to extend the range by regularly changing the shapes or materials used to respond to the expectations of the true enthusiast. For this reason, the firm is committed to extending its creative palette by offering a new collection of watches which, while totally new, has lost nothing, in its inspired refashioning, of the genetic code that makes up the very roots of its foundation.

By reworking the volumes for the HLQ collection, HAUTLENCE is once again playing with geometric symbols. Its logo, an extrapolation of the Moebius band - a graphic representation of infinity - invites one to reflect virtually at the metaphysical level. It then becomes apparent that by adding a round watch – still with this link between form and function, the backbone of the brand –HAUTLENCE is exploring the symbolism of form to reveal, in its inimitable manner, the philosophical implications of squaring the circle. This dimension, going well beyond the realm of conscious reasoning, no doubt explains why, in spite of all its differences, the round HLQ, born of the desire to fulfil the aspirations of the greater part of the watchmaking clientele, remains the natural extension of the HL and HLS collections. Thus, using the time-display principle adopted for its first calibre, the HL movement has been rebuilt with the date in the form of a calendar disc peripheral to the jumping hour and retrograding minute assembly.

With its new calibre, HAUTLENCE seals its entry into the circle of brands that have chosen to inscribe their names on the frontispiece of history. By offering a second movement that has been developed and manufactured independently as part of its collection, the young Manufacture is revealing to sceptics the extent of its intention to transcend time. In order to preserve the ties of paternity between the elder of the hand-wound calibres and the new movement, HAUTLENCE’s team of developers worked in unison and arrived at the following conclusion: that the new heart of the HLQ should retain the same visual associations yet avoid seeking to reuse the same kinematics for reading the time. Hence, the round calibre with manual winding uses - in this configuration integrating a calendar disc - a sectoral gear coupled with a calibrated, micrometric toothed pinion that is directly engaged with the minute-hand axis. With this arrangement, the use of space is optimised and the sector devoted to reading the minutes, increased.

The jumping hour and retrograding minutes are still commanded by the ingenious patented HL mechanism, which combines the slide-bar’s translation, driven by the retraction of the snail’s feeler-spindle, with a gold inertia-block that acts as an inertia wheel providing the energy required to make the disc jump. Finally, to simplify date setting, the in-house designers have included an instantaneous corrector cleverly positioned and accessible at 12 o’clock between the horns.

By playing on the repetition of circles right down to the arched sections reserved for reading the minutes, the round HLQ remodels its dial with the cerebral pleasure of knowing that its geometry is making an allusion to the repetitive nature of infinity.The 44 mm case has been redefined based on the DNA of the HL, retaining the latter’s pure and minimalist lines. The cylindrical form of the case, designed to optimise the opening, orientated the design towards ideas of destructured construction; thus, the four horns are screwed to the outside of the caseband, thereby optimising the adjustment of the pivoting strap to fit the wearer’s wrist as snugly as possible. Fractal to a certain extent, this watch possesses the ability to attract the eye using the relief of its openworked dial to give its owner an extraordinary sensation of speed through its various, intelligently worked curves. Thus, it sits at the confluence of trends, somewhere between modern and artistic craftsmanship, urban chic and measured sportiness, and personifies a new breed of timepieces in which understated power and originality are a symbol of excellence.

HAUTLENCE HLQ01

Features:
Black opaline watch dial with hand applied “HAUTLENCE” lettering.
Intermediate dial with laser cutting minute figures.
18K massive white gold case.
Ardillon Buckle, white gold.
Water-tightness: 3 atm.

HAUTLENCE HLQ02

Features:
Honeycomb stitch watch dial with hand applied “HAUTLENCE” lettering.
Intermediate dial with laser cutting minute figures.
18K massive white gold case, crown, horns18K & Titanium.
18K white gold Ardillon Buckle/ palladium plate.
Water-tightness: 3 atm.

HAUTLENCE HLQ05

Features:
White opaline watch dial with hand applied“HAUTLENCE” lettering.
Intermediate dial with laser cutting minute figures.
18K massive 4N pink gold case, on the lugs, bezel,crown, G2 titanium basis of case.
Ardillon Buckle, titanium and pink gold.
Water-tightness: 3 atm.

HAUTLENCE HLQ06

Features:
Chocolate Brown watch dial with hand applied “HAUTLENCE” lettering.
Intermediate dial with laser cutting minute figures.
18K massive 4N rose gold case.
Ardillon Buckle, rose gold.
Water-tightness: 3 atm.

HAUTLENCE HLQ07

Features:
White opaline watch dial with hand applied “HAUTLENCE” lettering.
Intermediate dial with laser cutting minute figures.
Titanium G2 case.
Ardillon Buckle, titanium G2.
Water-tightness: 3 atm.

HAUTLENCE HLQ08

Features:
Black opaline watch dial with hand applied “HAUTLENCE” lettering.
Intermediate dial with laser cutting minute figures.
Titanium G2 case.
Ardillon Buckle, titanium G2.
Water-tightness: 3 atm.

Technical specifications
Movement
Dedicated Calibre HAUTLENCE HLQ
Jumping date, Jumping hour, retrograde minute and running second
Manual winding mechanical movement
Power reserve: 40h
Oscillation: 21600 BPH
24 Jewels
Diameter: 43.8mm / thick: 10.65mm
Back decoration: Fine brushed galvanic treatment black Gold
Manually angled bridges
Identification and numbering plate on the back
Black Varnish in the engraving.

Other features
Water resistant to 30 meters (3ATM)
Sapphire crystal with angled edges, multi layer anti reflect
Screwed sapphire case back with stamps and the official engraving
Polished crown with HAUTLENCE logo
Black hand sewn genuine Louisiana alligator strap with square scales
Adjustable pin bar to fit on the case and horns; can be changed by customer
Ardillon Buckle

Armand Nicolet Watches: Brand Profile , History and Products

The story of Armand Nicolet begins around 1875 in Tramelan, Switzerland, a town in the Bernese Jura.At that time, the region of Tramelan was fundamentally agricultural. Armand Nicolet, son of a watchmaker, was passionate for his father’s vocation and a great admirer of quality. By the end of the 19th century, after a brilliant apprenticeship, he set up his “Atelier d’Horlogerie” and in 1902 he affirmed his technical maturity producing a pocket watch with “guilloché” rose gold case, enamel dial, single button chronographic function, complete calendar, repeating hours, quarter hours and minutes. During those years, Armand Nicolet also refined his technical skills doing important studies on design and form which were to influence his future work.

His watches, masterpieces of pure beauty, quality and precision are still to be found in the NICOLET SA’s museum and continue to arouse interest among international collectors.When he died in 1939 his son Willy assumed the reins of the family enterprise and developed it to be one of the most important production facilities in the region.During the first half of the 20th century, Tramelan was specialised in the production of movements and complete watches and around 1950 became the third pole of Swiss watch-making industry employing around 800 trained watch-makers in 150 factories. In those years, in the historic head office of Tramelan, the company Nicolet regulated and finished practically the whole production of Venus movements, whose components were assembled in different sophisticated calibres with excellent finishing: complete calendars, chronographs with “column wheel” including the 175 with split second pusher in the winding crown. During the 1950s Nicolet produced also the movement with the patented “Ajustor”, an ingenious mechanism, that when applied to the movement, allowed its regulation without having to open the watch.By the end of the 1970s Nicolet was also hit by the crisis of Swiss horology industry and was forced to reorganise and to cooperate with prestigious brands for whom it produced sophisticated movements and mechanisms. In this way Nicolet preserved its know-how and production skills.

In 1987 Willy Nicolet by chance met Mr. Rolando Braga, an Italian entrepreneur who had been active in the field of horology for 20 years, with important achievements in design and in the engineering of wrist watches. The encounter proved to be strategic and was the catalyst of the cooperation between the extraordinary Swiss technical skill and Italian creativity. The business relationship was sealed in 1988 with the sale of the Nicolet factory in Tramelan to enthusiastic financiers, whose commitment was the preservation of Armand Nicolet’s tradition and its re-launching.

The management of the new activity was entrusted to Mr. Rolando Braga. In 1990 the new NICOLET S.A. was created, a production company in the historic location of Tramelan. In 1992 NICOLET MD srl was born, a unity located in Brescia, Italy, taking care of design and marketing. In 1993 the NH S.A. was established, the holding of the group, located in Zug, Switzerland. This holding detains the control of both Nicolet S.A. and Nicolet M.D. srl and is the owner of the group’s brands, Armand Nicolet and Telda.With the appropriate structure the business was developed and the know-how and production capacity at the factory in Tramelan was recuperated, while the commitment in Italy was to create new lines exalting the extraordinary value of Armand Nicolet craftsmanship with the beauty of design. The worldwide success was the reason for the continuous growth of the group. Today, watchmakers, technicians, commercial and administrative operators, collaborate with the same enthusiasm of the Braga family. Armand Nicolet’s values, passed on from generation to generation, together with the special machinery dating back in some cases to the beginning of the 20th century, are still present and irreplaceable in the factory and continue to be used by its watchmakers for certain precision operations. The watchmakers, engineers and operators work respecting tradition, adding a soul to Armand Nicolet watches. The precious artisan savoir-faire is alive and dynamic in the factory and enables the production of truly valuable watches.

The watch making technology assists every step of the production process, from the research and engineering of details to the tests that are constantly carried out in the atelier. Each component is entirely studied with the use of a brand new 3D system, able to analyse both its functionality and its design. Nicolet uses this programme both to engineer movement components and other parts (cases, crowns, pushers, dials, hands, straps, buckles and bracelets) and they can see in the smallest detail both the technique and the aesthetic of the piece in production.

Constantly in search of innovation and perfection, the company's master watchmakers rigorously pursue the tradition of Armand Nicolet, developing inside the atelier all the steps of the production process, from creation to the assembly and the final control of the product. Each Armand Nicolet watch is delivered with its own technical control certification, compiled personally by the watchmaker who has performed the final control on the watch.

Mechanical watch movements by Armand Nicolet:
The mechanical watch making production is composed of two different processes: T1 (the assembling and fine setting of the parts needed to make a complete movement) and T2 (the assembling of the complete watch). The Armand Nicolet factory in his centenarian history has always been involved in the production of mechanical watches and has specialized in the T1 processing resulting in a grand know-how of the mechanical watch production. Armand Nicolet was best known for his unique craftsmanship still visible in the Chronograph monopusher with perpetual calendar and minute repeater he produced as his masterpiece between 1897 and 1902, a masterpiece that has restored by the new company a few years ago.In his atelier, in the fifties and sixties, many of the most complicated movements like the chronograph Venus with split second or with complete calendar were finished (T1) then sold and used by the most prestigious Swiss brands.

Today the atelier is focused on integrating the past with the future never forgetting the knowledge and processes that Armand Nicolet himself used. In the atelier there are still old movements produced starting from the forties that have been and are still being recovered and transformed into modern movements such as the movements used in the Limited Edition, L06, L07 series that are the best example of Armand Nicolet's expertise.

If you take a tour in the Atelier today, you will find that there are more human hands working on each movement instead of machines. These meticulous hands on approach to the creation of these masterpieces is what keeps the tradition alive and is the key principle that makes Armand Nicolet mechanical complicated watches so unique and competitive. Today less than 10.000 Armand Nicolet movements are produced a year including the movements used in the Limited Editions series, movements used in watches that carry the best of the company's technical and aesthetical capabilities. This knowledge is also applied to the series that use modern movements (M02, M03, TL7, TM7 & S05), movements that are modified by Armand Nicolet making also these collections unique. This is what keeps Armand Nicolet separate from the other brands, it’s continuation of using past values and tradition, translating them into a modern world.

Limited Edition Movements:
These movements use the base 176 produced in 1948, 135 pcs in the version with 21 jewels. These pieces are inspired by a model of great simplicity and elegance, but projected in a completely new fashion, starting from the soul of the watch: from the introduction of the system Incabloc, to the enhancement of the adjustment of the Swan Neck mechanism, to the precious ornament “Côte de Genève”. A limited series that unites the elegance of 85 timepieces in rose gold to the refinement of 50 timepieces in white gold, enriched with blue screws that are visible through the back. This collection was created following the research and the revisiting of the past history but also from the evolution made possible by the centenary tradition of the Maison Nicolet.

Movement diameter 29,5 mm, thickness 3,9 mm. The balance wheel uses the counter weight system and it’s made of a special alloy with balance screws. The vibrations are 18.000 per hour and the power reserve is 32 hours.

L06: These movements use the base 176 produced in 1951, 300 pcs are in the version with 18 jewels while 125 pcs in the version with 17 jewels. These movements have been elaborated giving them more modern and refined technical characteristics. The application of the shock absorber Incabloc has been integrated with the Swan Neck mechanism. The “ruage” and the system of “reglage” have been revised to obtain the characteristics of regulation comparable to the best Swiss mechanical production of today. The movements have been finely decorated with the “Côte de Genève” with gold engravings and blue polì screws that stand out in the splendid finishing of the rhodium plating of the bridges. The balance zone has been skilfully skeletonized.

Movement diameter 29,5 mm, thickness 3,9 mm. The balance wheel uses the counter weight system and it’smade of a special alloy with balance screws. The vibrations are 18.000 per hour and the power reserve is 32 hours.

L07: 20 pieces use the base VENUS 175 with column wheel, while 120 pieces use the VENUS 188 with “navettes” system produced in 1949 with 17 jewels. These movements go farther beyond the Armand Nicolet tradition characterized by very fine decoration. The plate and the bridges deserve particular attention because they are decorated with a motif called “Côte de Nicolet”. After the external surfaces of the plate and bridges are polished, beautiful lines are decorated every 2 mm by means of a special tool that has an ivory point that scrapes the surface. The “aciers” are “anglês” and “adoucis” while the screws’ heads are “polies-bloquées” (the head is so flat that when you look at the screw from a front view it appears to be black due to the reflection of the light on a perfect flat surface). This pattern recaptures a decoration that was used in the 1930s only on the high end movements. All this work is meant to recuperate the original hand craftsmanship belonging to the Maison.

Movement diameter 31,2 mm, thickness 5,7 mm. The balance wheel uses the counter weight system and it’s made of a special alloy with balance screws. The vibrations are 18.000 per hour and the power reserve is 32 hours.

Quality Control:
A refined mechanical watch is made up of hundreds of extremely precise metal components, assembled into a sophisticated and harmonious mechanism. Although the work on each mechanism is not completed until reaching full precision, the nature of the diverse metals (that change sizes according to diverse temperatures), the friction of the lubricants (that vary in their function according to humidity, their position, and other environmental factors), continuously influence the precision of the running of your watch. Centuries of study and research of Swiss watchmaking have contributed to the continuous improvement from the materials to the production processes which today have reached the results with the precision and reliability which at one time was impossible. Over two centuries of research and study, and most recently the introduction of innovative materials have enormously reduced the influence of these phenomena, but they continue to set a persistent natural limit, posing a constant challenge for prestigious watch manufacturers. The results of this goal are the numerous tests carried out on every Armand Nicolet timepiece before it leaves the factory. As a result of this continuous and enthusiastic research, a number of tests are performed on your Armand Nicolet mechanical watch: true to company tradition, the watch is kept for an entire week under similar conditions of temperature, pressure and humidity that occur during everyday use and changes of function are recorded for each of the different positions most commonly encountered when a watch is worn on the wrist.

To enable a thorough and exhaustive technical analysis to each Armand Nicolet watch, the data is reported in the “Technical Control” where the results recorded in the main positions under the conditions of temperature, humidity and pressure reported are indicated as follows:
• The conditions of temperature, humidity, and pressure.
• The precision recorded during the tests that must be always between -0 and +20 seconds/ day when the watch is completely charged and also after 24 hours of running.
• The oscillations of the balance wheel must always be between 220 and 310 degrees


Official website: http://www.armandnicolet.com

Monday, July 27, 2009

Antoine Preziuso-Wheeling Stones

Third born of the mechanical and horological haute jewellery familly, the wheeling stones by Preziuso are simply the marriage between a mechanical watch rotor and a set of diamonds. Let’s the diamonds roll!

Antoine Preziuso-Transworld Pebble

On this magnificent version of the Transworld line created by Antoine Preziuso, the travel theme is highlighted by the stunningly original large pebble-like case.

The 24-hour dial features large numerals at 3-hourly intervals with “hour lines” in between, symbolically evoking the rays of the sun and in practical terms representing the longitudes on a world map. It is also visually distinguished by a light upper zone to display daytime hours and a dark lower section to show the night-time.
The dial centre is adorned with a stylised representation of the globe with its continents stretching across the vast expanse of a wavy-patterned blue ocean background.

More than just an artistic accomplishment, the latter actually turns in 24 hours as the real globe to indicate the time zones for individuals entirely at home in our global village.

URWERK UR-CC1

Swiss luxury watchmaker URWERK presents The UR-CC1, the world's first production wristwatch with true retrograde linear displays.Code named as King Cobra and ‘CC’ for Cottier Cobra, this novelty is a homage to the genius of Louis Cottier, inventor and creator who invented the world’s first watch to feature a linear display in 1958-59.

There are very few wristwatches with linear indications. One of them, if not the first, was ‘The Cobra’, which was developed in the late 1950s by Mr. Louis Cottier. It is sensational! Although it was created over half a century ago, it is still very contemporary. Unfortunately, it only exists as a single prototype and was never put into production. Now, 50 years after he filed his patent (1959), URWERK pays homage to the work of Louis Cottier by creating its own interpretation of the Cobra.

Time is usually - nearly always - displayed by a circular indication: one dial and two (or three) with the time displayed around a perpetual circle. However, this 360° representation of time goes against everything we learnt as we grew up drawing a straight line on a blank page and marking it Past, Present and Future. Why do we think of time as travelling in a straight line yet display it rotating around a circle? The answer is straightforward: mechanisms that continually rotate are much simpler to produce than those that trace a straight line then return to zero. In fact, the latter is so difficult that, until now, nobody has ever managed to develop a production wristwatch with true retrograde linear displays.
Linear: On the UR-CC1, there are two horizontal indications displayed by two retrograde cylinders: one for the (jumping) hours, the other for the minutes. And don't be lulled by the apparent simplicity of the displays; the UR-CC1 is the result of more than three years of research, development, production and testing to ensure that the rotation and instant fly-back of the large hour and minute cylinders was achieved without compromising accurate timekeeping.

Triple-cam: A vertical triple-cam operating a toothed rack (visible through a window in the side of the case) rotates the minute cylinder. From zero to 60 minutes, the minute cylinder rotates through 300°. On arriving at the 60-minute mark the cylinder instantly (1/10th of a second) reverses back to its original position thanks to an extra-flat linear spring. The retrograde movement of the minute cylinder triggers the hour cylinder to advance (jump) one complete hour. The triple-cam is crafted from bronze beryllium, a metal selected for its inherently self-lubricating properties and low co-efficient of friction, and takes the form of three small inclines. The precise shape of the curve of the incline is relayed to the pivoting rack, while the teeth on the end of the rack mesh with and rotate the minute cylinder. The triple-cam makes a complete rotation in three hours so that each of the three inclines takes 60 minutes, and 180 points of reference have been calculated on each of the three cams to ensure the precise and isochronic rotation of the minute cylinder.
Toothed segment: The toothed segment at the end of the cam transmits and transforms the rotation triple-cam into the rotation of the minute cylinder. The toothed rack presents two properties that at first appear contradictory: absolute rigidity, so as to accurately transmit the motion of the cam to the minute cylinder; and extremely low mass to consume as little energy as possible and minimise the effects of gravity and accelerations/shocks. This vital component has been fabricated by Mimotec using their photolithography process. The honeycomb pattern of the structure resolves the two apparently contradictory requirements of maximum strength and minimum weight.

Seconds disk: The dial of the UR-CC1 is animated by a rotating disk displaying the seconds both digitally and linearly – a world first! This incredible exploit was achieved thanks to Mimotec’s photolithography production technique; the procedure is even more precise than electro-erosion. To reduce mass to an absolute minimum, the minuscule numerals were even skeletonised. A small tab at 10 seconds bearing the URWERK logo precisely counterbalances the disk's single-digit numbers. This marvel of micro precision weighs only 0.09 grams.

Rotor Fly Brake: UR-CC1 features URWERK’s pneumatic shock-absorbing Rotor Fly Brake automatic winding system, which minimizes rotor and mechanism wear and damage from shock and harsh movements. The operation of the Rotor Fly Brake is visible through a window on the side of the case.
Technical Specifications
Model: UR-CC1
Case: available in either grey gold with titanium case back (limited edition of 25 pieces) or black gold with titanium case back (limited edition of 25 pieces); brushed-satin finish
Movement: calibre UR-CC1; automatic winding regulated by “fly brake turbine” pneumatic shock absorber
Indications: linear display for hours and minutes with jumping hours and retrograde minutes ; second display both digital and linear
Dimensions: 42.6mm x 53mm x 18mm
Dial and Bridges: ARCAP P40. SuperLumiNova treatment on hours, minutes displays

Vacheron Constantin Malte moon phase and power-reserve (2009)

Five different finishes for an ultra-sophisticated new dial: the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin once again demonstrates its superlative mastery of the watchmaking art with its new Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve model.

The tonneau or “barrel” shape, explored by Vacheron Constantin since 1912. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and also began charting new stylistic territory, in step with the major artistic movements characterising the dawn of the 20th century. In turn elongating, curving, embellishing or paring down the case according to the inspiration of the moment, Vacheron Constantin already introduced departures from exclusively round designs in 1912, starting with the famous tonneau or “barrel” shape. A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model.



With its generously sized case (39x49mm), original fan-shaped lugs, distinctively graphic dial design and facetted dagger-shaped hands, the new Malte is bound to delight the most demanding connoisseurs.

The tonneau-shaped case frames a magnificently harmonious dial in silvered gold, striking a perfect balance between technical and traditional watchmaking. It is adorned with five different finishes, all of them involving highly skilled craftsmanship. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered. The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white. The moon-phase display embodies a clever blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanised base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.



The manual-winding 1410 calibre powering the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve is entirely developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. It bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, a token of quality reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing. Both sides of the mainplate are circular-grained and the edge drawn out, meaning adorned with parallel lines using a file and bevelled. Also meticulously drawn out and bevelled, the bridges are embellished with a Côtes de Genève motif. In addition to hour and minute hands, Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.



The Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve is available with a case in 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold. The satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal. Naturally guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 30 metres, this timepiece is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.

TECHNICAL DATA
References:Malte moon phase and power-reserve
83080/000G-9408 and 83080/000R-9407

Movement:
1410, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy:Mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement:4.2 mm
Diameter of movement:26.00 mm
Jewels:22 rubies
Frequency:28'800 vibrations/hours

Indications:
Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Precision moon phase
Power-reserve

Power-reserve:Approx. 40 hours
Case:18 K white or 5N pink gold,39 mm x 49 mm tonneau shape
Water-resistance:3 bar, equivalent to 30 meters

Dial:
18 K white or 5N pink gold
Silvered, « Clou de Paris » hand-guilloché interior zone
Vertical satin finished exterior zone
Applied Maltese cross in 18K white gold or 5N pink gold

Strap:Black or brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp:18K white or 5N pink gold folding clasp, polished half Maltese cross

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