Friday, April 30, 2010

Breguet REINE DE NAPLES 8958 (2007)

A unique piece, the REINE DE NAPLES Cammea watch honours the craft tradition of cameo work, the world capital of which, Torre del Greco, is located in the region of Naples. A work of engraving in high relief on materials having strata of contrasting colours, the cameo is one of the world’s most amazing craft activities where the frontiers with art are extremely fine.

Originally done on such hardstones as sard or cornelian, cameos are also produced on shells. Using a simple steel stylus, the craftsman works on the different layers of shell to a depth of hardly two millimetres, creating a sculpture of uncommon delicacy. To achieve this he selects and examines with care the hues, the stratification, the perspectives, the gradations and the total effect of transparency inherent in the shell.
The cameo dial of the REINE DE NAPLES 8958 – a world first – is a true miniature sculpted on shell. The hours and minutes hands, off-centre at 6 o'clock, seem intent on vanishing discreetly from the stage so as to leave all the glory to the art of the cameo. The case in white gold set with diamonds protects the delicacy of the relief beneath a sapphire-crystal glass. Its transparent back reveals a gold winding rotor engine-turned by hand and inlaid with natural mother-of-pearl. The watch is presented on a chocolate-coloured strap in alligator leather with a diamond-set folding clasp.

Technical details
REF. 8958BB/51/974 D00D
  • Case: egg-shaped in 18-carat white gold, with finely fluted caseband. Bezel set with 40 diamonds (approx. 2.42cts). Crown set with a “briolette” diamond (approx. 0.26ct). Dimensions: 40x31.95mm. Sapphire -crystal caseback. Water-resistant to 30 metres.
  • Dial: cameo carved out of a natural seashell (hand made raised relief-carving of the different layers of a seashell). Signed BREGUET. Off-centred chapter-ring at 6 o’clock. Open-tipped BREGUET hands in rhodium-plated gold. Each dial has a unique pattern.
  • Movement: self-winding, numbered and signed BREGUET. 8¾ lines. 20 jewels. Cal. 537/1. 40-hour power-reserve. 18- carat gold rotor hand-engraved on a rose-engine set with natural mother -of-pearl. Straight-line Swiss lever escapement. Monometallic 3Hz annular balance -wheel. Adjusted in 5 positions.
  • Strap: chocolate coloured alligator with folding clasp set with 26 diamonds (approx. 0.14 cts)

FABERGÉ Presents New Premium Timepieces

The new premium timepieces launched by FABERGÉ at Baselworld 2010 were a huge success with watch collectors, specialised journalists and trend-oriented visitors of the show. The ladies were delighted with the timeless premium timepieces of the renowned brand.

The newly launched semi-skeleton watch Agathon M 1131 boasts highest technical precision, finest design and artisan craftsmanship. The sophisticated hand-guilloched gold dial has a tremendous appeal. Its elegant grey fire enamel is applied in several layers by hand as well as hand-polished to achieve the famed deep brilliance of the FABERGÉ enamelling and to make each dial a one-of-a kind piece of art.

Only perfect masterpieces pass the strict quality control. However, minuscule irregularities in the enamel are an indication of the authenticity of the artisan craftsmanship making each piece even more precious and truly unique. And with a limitation of only ten watches world-wide, the aficionados acquiring this all white gold timepiece can pride themselves on owning a truly exclusive piece.

The Agathon Medium M 1027 and the Regulator Agathon M 1124. The Agathon M 1027 features a hand-guilloched dial with authentic fire enamel in burgundy red or lilac and a matching crocodile strap. This exquisite model is more than just a watch – it is a piece of jewellery of outstanding beauty. Made from 750/- gold, optionally available with a diamond-set bezel, this classy watch is a real eye-catcher.
Less striking but just as well received was the Agathon Regulator. The version with the 750/- rose gold case with the fine dark brown alligator strap perfectly sets off the brilliance of the silver-coloured dial. With its dark brown sub dial of enamelled gold, the offset hours, minutes and seconds take centre stage. A distinguishing mark of all models of the Agathon series is the radial guilloche pattern to adorn parts of the exquisitely crafted dial.

The graceful Carrée M 1133 as well as a model of the well-known Anastasia collection feature a dial with a resplendent radial guilloché pattern. The delicately set diamonds on the bezel and the sapphire cabochon make these timepieces as fascinating as the woman wearing them.

RGM Presents Caliber MM 2 "Pennsylvania Tourbillon", the first Tourbillon made in a series in the U.S.A

RGM continues to uphold the finest traditions of American horology by introducing the Pennsylvania Tourbillon, Its new flagship mechanical movement made here in Lancaster County Pennsylvania. The new Pennsylvania Tourbillon is signified by the state’s symbol, a keystone, surrounding a capital T, which will adorn watches in the first serially produced American Tourbillon watches ever made. Following on the heels of America’s first high grade mechanical movement in four decades, Its RGM Caliber 801, the Pennsylvania Tourbillon represents significant advances in domestic watchmaking. The watch is not only made in the U.S.A., but is created and built in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania -- one of the few traditional watchmaking centers of American watchmaking since the 1800s.

The new model will be produced in a small numbered series, both as a standard model and for custom orders. Housed in a 43 mm x 12 mm case of either steel or 18k gold, the movement is a symphony of layers, showcasing many of the great elements of traditional watchmaking typical of RGM. Finely polished components share space with brushed elements and perlage.

Wheel cocks borrow their shape from the RGM 801 and from classic American movements of yesteryear. The spokes of the wheels continue this theme. A 7-tooth click and winding wheels with wolf’s teeth are immersed in plates with subtle striped damaskeening. The movement is made of the finest quality traditional watchmaking materials such as German Silver, Gold, Silver, and Black Polished Steel.

All of these elements are juxtaposed among that which may be the most surprising of all: the label U.S.A. Never before has an American watchmaker introduced a series of Tourbillon wristwatches based upon a proprietary caliber. To do so, and to create them domestically, is an historic accomplishment.

Additional remarkable features of this watch include hand applied decoration such as guilloché (done on RGM's antique rose engines), an inset hour and minute dial whose placement nicely balances the exposed Tourbillon, and a small curved sapphire window on the side of the case to allow a third view of the miniature ‘whirlwind’, the Pennsylvania Tourbillon's cage, which is this model’s namesake.The Tourbillon is considered to be one of the most challenging of watch mechanisms to make, and is valued for its engineering and hand finishing.

H.Moser & Cie. MAYU Zarenadler (Imperial Eagle)

The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and on the other hand Moser’s two master engravers wished to demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the exquisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner.

For once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was replaced by a solid gold case back, which depicts the two headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Naturally the movement beneath it is still a feast for the eyes. In order to set eyes on it, however, it is necessary to look over the shoulders of a watchmaker during a service.
Technical details
-Reference no. 322.504-lb04
-Limited edition of 50 pcs.
-Movement cal. HMC 322.504
-Hand-wound with true bevel wheels
-Min. 3-day power reserve
-Moser tooth system in wheel train and pinions
-Power reserve display on the movement side
-Seconds stop function
-Moser interchangeable escapement
-Original straumann hairspring® With stabilized breguet overcoil
-Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of Hardened solid gold
-Black lacquered dial
-Three-part, round case in rose gold Set with 64 top wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds
-Discreetly convex sapphire glass
-Hand-engraved solid gold case back with 25 top wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds
-Crocodile leather strap
-With solid rose gold clasp

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Piaget Polo FortyFive 2010 Edition

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the legendary Piaget Polo in 2009, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget unveiled its sporting chic version: the Piaget Polo FortyFive – a titanium watch featuring an elegant sporty design matched by remarkable technical mastery. This year, in response to the enthusiasm generated by this new line, Piaget is presenting two new interpretations: the Piaget Polo FortyFive with an openworked dial expressing a more technical sporty mood, and the Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady, a model entirely dedicated to women.

The new Piaget Polo FortyFive with openworked dial – available as a chronograph or in a version with three hands and date display – carries within it the full DNA of the original FortyFive model. This timepiece exuding a sporty and contemporary spirit is an aesthetic reinterpretation of the Piaget Polo watch created in 1979. It features the same contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes, along with seamless integration of the bracelet into the case, bracelet gadroons subtly echoing those on the case, an harmoniously curved case middle guaranteeing remarkable comfort on the wrist, and the iconic trapeze-shaped appliques.

The case measuring 45 mm in titanium – as its name implies – is water-resistant to 100 metres. The latest Piaget Polo FortyFive, like the previous 2009 version, is distinguished by a daring combination of grade 5 titanium, vulcanised rubber and steel, while the transparent case-back enables one to admire the finishing of its mechanical movement designed, developed and produced in-house, like all mechanical movements equipping Piaget watches.
The Piaget Polo FortyFive chronograph version houses Calibre 880P, a mechanical self-winding movement with vertical clutch. In addition to the chronograph and its flyback function, this movement drives the hours, minutes, small seconds, date display and a 24-hour time-zone indication. Thanks to its twin barrels, its power reserve lasts a full 50 hours with the chronograph in operation.

Meanwhile, the second version is equipped with mechanical self-winding 800P powering the hours, minutes, seconds and date functions. Representing the classic Piaget signature, the finishing of these two movements is entirely in harmony with the prestigious codes of fine watchmaking: bevelled bridges with hand-drawn sides and surfaces adorned with circular Côtes de Genève, a circular-grained mainplate, blued screws, a balance with adjustment screws and a black PVD-coated oscillating weight engraved with the Piaget coat-of-arms.

In addition to the contrasts between light-coloured metal and black rubber, polished steel and satin-brushed titanium, the new Piaget Polo FortyFive with its openworked dial is endowed with a technical touch thanks to its dial featuring multiple openings providing a view of the mechanism with the black PVD-treated circular- grained mainplate and the date disc. The numerals, hour-markers and parts are entwined in a multidimensional ensemble in which every effort has been made to maintain excellent readability of the information.

 The presence of bright red accents – hands, transfers, hour-markers – stands out particularly well against the openworked dial with its black and metallic shades. Visibility in the dark is ensured by the hour-markers coated with a luminescent material. The model exudes a resolutely technical and sporting aura imbued with understated and virile elegance. Issued in limited series of 500, each of the two new Piaget Polo FortyFive versions is available on a rubber strap fitted with a steel folding clasp enabling summer/winter adjustment.

Technical details
Piaget Polo FortyFive Chronograph 2010 edition
Ref. G0A35001
Titanium case;45 mm
Satin-brushed titanium bezel with polished steel godrons
Screw-lock crown in titanium and rubber
Black and red openworked dial, luminescent applied hour-markers
Sapphire crystal case-back
Shaped push-buttons in titanium and rubber
Functions: Hour, minute, flyback chronograph, small seconds (counter at 6 o’clock), dual time zone (24-hour indication at 9 o’clock)
Water resistance: 100 m
Manufacture Piaget 880P mechanical self-winding chronograph movement
Movement thickness: 5.65 mm
Casing diameter: 12”’ (ø 27 mm)
Number of jewels: 35
Alternance: 28,800 vph (balance with screws)
Approximately 50-hour power reserve (double barrel)
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, blued screws, coat of arms engraved on the oscillating weight
Steel triple-folding safety clasp with summer/winter position
Rubber strap with steel inserts
Limited and numbered edition of 500

Ref. G0A35010
Titanium case;45 mm
Satin-brushed titanium bezel with polished steel godrons
Screw-lock crown in titanium and rubber
Black and red openworked dial, luminescent applied hour-markers and Arabic numerals
Sapphire crystal case-back
Shaped push-buttons in titanium and rubber
Functions: Hour, minute, seconds, date ( at 6 o’clock)
Water resistance: 100 m
Manufacture Piaget 800P mechanical self-winding movement
Movement thickness: 4 mm
Casing diameter: 12”’ (ø 26.8 mm)
Number of jewels: 25
Alternance: 21,600 vph
Approximately 72-hour power reserve (double barrel)
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, blued screws, coat of arms engraved on the oscillating weight
Steel triple-folding safety clasp with summer/winter position
Rubber strap with steel inserts
Limited and numbered edition of 500

Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady
Men obviously don’t have a monopoly on sporting and casual elegance, which is why the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget is enriching its collection this year by unveiling a feminine version of the Piaget Polo FortyFive. Conceived and developed in the same sporting chic spirit as its masculine alter ego – and with the same ergonomic feel and comfort on the wrist – the new Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady nonetheless radiates its own inherently sensual temperament.

The Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady is a watch that can genuinely be worn in all circumstances. With its round shape, its case that is water-resistant to 50 metres and its comfortable and sturdy rubber strap, one can easily imagine it on the wrist of a young, sporty woman playing a tennis match or at the helm of a sailboat. The combination of a gold case, a dial with a refined yet contemporary design and a white rubber strap, also lends it an aura of elegance that is ideal for a cocktail or a shopping spree. And finally, with the brilliant-cut diamonds adorning its bezel and dial, and the finely satin-brushed and polished surfaces of its gadrooned case, it has all the assets of a smart, dressy watch that will look great with an evening gown. Equipped with a Piaget quartz movement, the Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady is a watch featuring a style and character that mean it is up to all manner of bold challenges.

The latest feminine sport-chic model from Piaget features a curving 38 mm-diameter case in white or pink gold, enhanced by a diamond-set bezel. The Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady is also distinguished by a subtle alliance between the precious nature of gold and diamonds, and the relaxed and ultra-feminine style of the perfectly integrated white rubber strap. The dial is the epitome of refinement and femininity, featuring a central circle of gold curving appliques pointing either towards luminescent facetted hour-markers tipped with a diamond, or to one of the three luminescent Arabic numerals characteristic of the Piaget Polo collection. The case features the collection’s typical gadroons accentuating the line’s classic alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes.

Piaget Polo FortyFive Lady
Ref. G0A35013
18-carat pink gold case,38 mm
Bezel set with 50 brilliant-cut diamonds ( approx 0.7 ct) with polished godrons
White dial set with 8 brilliant-cut diamonds, luminescent applied hour-markers and Arabic numerals
Functions: Hour, minute, seconds, date ( at 6 o’clock)
Water resistance: 50 m
Piaget 15P quartz movement
18-carat pink gold pin buckle
Rubber strap with 18-carat pink gold inserts

Ref. G0A35014
18-carat white gold case
38 mm
Bezel set with 50 brilliant-cut diamonds ( approx 0.7 ct) with polished godrons
White dial set with 8 brilliant-cut diamonds, luminescent applied hour-markers and Arabic numerals
Functions: Hour, minute, seconds, date ( at 6 o’clock)
Water resistance: 50 m
Piaget 15P quartz movement
18-carat white gold pin buckle
Rubber strap with 18-carat white gold inserts

Rado eSenza Blue Jubilé

The eSenza Blue Jubilé by Rado can be distinguished by its refined elliptical form and enthralling play on light.

Emphasised by the gentle linearity of a satin strap, the case creates an oval with perfect proportions, while the entire circular dial is adorned with sapphires in varying shades of blue. Set in a Fibonacci spiral derived from the golden number, they bring a mythical balance to the subtle harmony of blues.

On the surface of the dial, time is reduced to the essentials. Two silvered hands alone highlight the sparkle of its geometrical scrolls. They circulate serenely under the curved, edge-to-edge sapphire crystal with its metallic blue finish. The discreet crown is partially hidden under the case band: a detail that completes the perfect integration of the elements and exemplifies the signature of the Rado legend.

Technical details
  • Movement: 3 ¾ x 6 ¾ ETA 280.002, quartz, 2 hands
  • Dial: 425 blue sapphires, 0.70/0.75, 8/8, 0.722 carat, in 5 shaded tones set along a Fibonacci pattern, blue background
  • Case: polished steel, steel crown
  • Crystal: curved sapphire crystal,Dark blue metallization with Rado and Jubilé logos
  • Hands: steel color
  • Bracelet: blue satin bracelet, steel buckle

Bedat & Co Ref 827 & 828

Worn on a steel mesh bracelet or a hand-sewn alligator leather strap, the 827 and 828 models epitomise active elegance. The timeless touch of diamonds enhances the dial, bezel, crown guard or the entire case. Special care is devoted to the case-backs which are engraved with a decorative border and curved for enhanced comfort.

The integrated crown echoes the identity codes of the Geneva-based brand. References 827 (26.5 mm in diameter) and 828 (36.5 mm) feature identical designs, while the former is equipped with a quartz movement and the latter with a self-winding movement driving a date display at 3 o’clock.

Bedat & Co Ref. 827.041.909

-Case: 26.5 mm
-Stainless steel case
-Bezel and crown set with 70 diamonds
-Mother-of-pearl dial
-6 diamonds hour-markers
-Black Roman numerals
-Bedat & Co blued steel hands
-Stainless steel “mille mailles” bracelet
-Stainless steel folding clasp
-Total carat weight: approx. 0.68
-Quartz movement
-ETA caliber 73/4 956.102
-Water resistance tested: 5 ATM

Bedat & Co Ref. 828.041.600

-Case: 36.5 mm
-Stainless steel case
-Bezel and crown protector set with 151 diamonds
-Opalin dial
-Black Roman numerals
-Bedat & Co blued steel hands
-Calendar at 3 o’clock
-Stainless steel “mille mailles” bracelet
-Stainless steel folding clasp
-Total carat weight: approx. 1.50
-Mechanical automatic movement
-ETA caliber 111/2 2892A2
-Water resistance tested: 5 ATM

Bedat & Co Presents Haute Joaillerie Watch Models: Ref 880 & 881

Much as in the world of haute couture which unites a range of artisans in giving to the most sophisticated ideas, Bedat & Co embodies a wealth of artistic crafts that give life to its watch models.

For the new haute joaillerie models, references 880 and 881, the design highlights the radiant sparkle of the diamonds, which reinforce the structure of the model involving meticulous construction of both visible and invisible parts. The infinitely intertwining rings feature changing textures of brilliant and baguette-cut stones, and the dial-maker combines a shimmering mother-of-pearl base with a magnificent paving of diamonds creating a luminous mantle that enhances every subtle detail.

These stunningly rare pieces compose an anthem to the scrupulous care and authenticity of Swiss know-how. Miniature marvels blending delicate stylishness and virtuoso dexterity, they eloquently express the inherent refinement of Bedat & Co.

Bedat & Co Ref. 880.550.909

-18-carat white gold case
-Bezel and crown protector set with 252 diamonds
-10 diamonds hour-markers
-Mother-of-pearl dial
-Rolled-edge galuchat phiri strap
-18-carat white gold pin buckle set with 42 diamonds
-ETA caliber 73/4 956.032
-Total carat weight: approx. 2.94

Bedat & Co Ref. 881.560.999

-18-carat white gold case
-Bezel and crown protector set with 243 diamonds
-Dial set with 92 diamonds
-Mother-of-pearl dial
-Rolled-edge hand-stitched galuchat phiri strap
-18-carat white gold pin buckle set with 164 diamonds
-ETA caliber 73/4 956.032
-Total carat weight: approx. 5.03

Tokyoflash Kisai Broke

Tokyoflash Japan releases a new watch design, Kisai Broke,the first watch design from the brand to be USB rechargeable, meaning enhanced brightness and long lasting battery life.

The striking interface design has an fragmented appearance and is simple and intuitive to read. After a short shattering animation, the outer ring of blocks represent hours in the same position as hours on a clock face, the inner ring of blocks represent five minute intervals in the same position as hours on a clock face. Four single minutes are shown in the center.Kisai Broke is available for 15,900 Japanese yen ($168, €124, £110) including delivery.

With a custom designed, brushed stainless steel case and smart matching wrist band, Broke also has a character enhancing light up function built in allowing you to set the display to animate once every 15 minutes between 18:00 and 24:00, an option that can be turned off to conserve energy.

* Displays the time
* USB rechargeable
* LED animation option
* Clasp: simple fold over clasp with push button
* Minimum wrist size: 130 mm (approx.)
* Maximum wrist size: 200 mm (approx.)
* Case dimensions: 33 mm x 48 mm x 9 mm
* Weight: 164 grams
* Water resistance: 3ATM
* Battery: LIR2032 rechargeable and replaceable standard watch battery
* Japanese and English instructions
* One year warranty

SAINT HONORE Chronograph Coloseo Valjoux Limited Edition

In order to celebrate its 125th anniversary in style, the Maison SAINT HONORE presents the chronograph Coloseo Valjoux LIMITED EDITION, an exceptional timepiece that combines the best in horlogical expertise together with a strong design.

The ETA 7750 Valjoux chronograph movement is the stuff of legends in watchmaking. It now finds a natural home in the new Coloseo, a watch with clean lines and design that have garnered universal acclaim.
Imposing both in shape and size (44mm), the new Coloseo Valjoux stands out by virtue of its fine features and the care lavished on details: luminescent hour-markers, open-worked hands, and the crown engraved with the SAINT HONORE logo characterise the titanium PVD version. As for the pink gold version, it couples coherence with refinement, thanks to its pink gold-plated hour-markers, small seconds and chronograph hour-counter.

The three oversized Arabic numerals add a touch of originality, as they have been engraved directly under the sapphire glass at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. The titanium PVD version is also marked by the circular-grained finish of the steel dial, which has been pierced at 12 and 6 o’clock to show the two original chronograph discs.
From the mechanical angle, the self-winding movement boasts a 44-hour power-reserve. It indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds (small seconds at 9 o’clock), and comes with a chronograph function that measures seconds with a direct-drive centre hand as well as minutes and hours on two counters at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively. The date has been positioned at 3 o’clock, so as not to break the effect of harmony.

SAINT HONORE also kept true watch-lovers in mind when placing a sapphire glass on the case back, providing another means of admiring this high end calibre. The mechanical self-winding movement can thus be freely viewed as the benchmark that it is. This opening lets true connoisseurs get a full sense of how carefully each detail and technical marvel was achieved, such as the engraved oscillating weight and the Côte de Genève decoration.

The strap is made with the same meticulous attention. The red overstitching, standing out against the black leather, echoes the red chronograph counter and gives the watch a resolutely sporty character.

The Coloseo Valjoux is offered in three versions (PVD titanium case, pink gold-plated case, or steel case) and is available in a limited edition of 300 (100 for each version). It is a further testament to SAINT HONORE’s absolute mastery of the most cutting-edge timepiece techniques.

Titanium PVD model
Automatic chronograph, Valjoux 7750, 28’800 vib/h (4 Hz), 25 jewels
Engraved oscillating weight, Côtes de Genève decorations
44-hour power reserve

Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

Stainless steel, titanium PVD finishing, 44 mm
Sapphire glass engraved with 3 oversized Arabic numerals
Sapphire back
Water-resistant to 50 m

Black, partially open on counters, steel with circular-grained finish
Stainless steel hour-markers and hands with white Superluminova
12-hour, 30-minute and small seconds-counters at 6, 12, and 9 o’clock respectively
Date at 3 o’clock

Black leather with red overstitching, folding clasp

18K Pink Gold-plated model
Automatic chronograph, Valjoux 7750, 28’800 vib/h (4 Hz), 25 jewels
Engraved oscillating weight, Côtes de Genève decorations
44-hour power reserve

Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph

18K pink gold-plated stainless steel, 44 mm
Sapphire glass engraved with 3 oversized Arabic numerals
Sapphire back
Water-resistant to 50 m

Black with counters recessed and in relief
18K pink gold-plated steel hour-markers
18K pink gold-plated steel hands with white Superluminova
12-hour, 30-minute and small seconds-counters at 6, 12, and 9 o’clock respectively
Date at 3 o’clock

Black leather with black overstitching, folding clasp

Monday, April 26, 2010

H Moser & Cie Moser Mayu Marrone: The Italian variant of the MAYU line

The MAYU family now has an elegant addition. The MAYU MARRONE embodies Mediterranean stylishness, joie de vivre and understatement at the same time. It is represented by two charming watches of Italian origin with markedly aesthetic dials; both variants of an exciting watch with an impressive appearance. On the one hand, with the gleaming maroon dial with its specially ground finish harmonizing perfectly with the warm, golden tone of the rose gold case.

On the other hand, in the white gold version, which contrasts a shining white case with a distinctly dark brown tone, which radiates bright beams depending on how the light strikes it. The appliquéd indices for the hours are in the same colour as the case and are diamond polished. Hands executed in the same colour also have the three-dimensional form that is so typical of Moser with a bright-polished eye of the hand.
An external feature of these exceptional watches is the pocket watch-style seconds hand in a sub-dial that is encountered extremely rarely in wristwatches. It takes its name from its association with traditional pocket watches. Their seconds graduations extended as far as the minute chapter ring. This means that the movement size must be adapted to the case dimensions. No movement retaining ring between the movement and the case is allowed to detract from this composition. This is exclusivity in its purest form.

The Moser Cal. HMC321.503 movement is a hand-wound movement with an extra-long power reserve with a diameter of 32 mm and a Moser tooth system optimized for high efficiency in the entire wheel train. A large spring barrel guarantees a power reserve of 80 hours, ensuring that the watch indicates the time reliably for more than three days even without winding. A power reserve display on the rear of the movement is visible through the sapphire glass window in the case back. Even so, the watch is a mere 9.3 mm thin. An external diameter of 38.8 mm means that the unisex size of this watch appeals to present-day preferences. Distinctive Moser case flanks, known as freely formed lateral surfaces, identify the three-part case for connoisseurs. Complemented by a crown with a stylized ‘‘M’’. Satin-finished and polished case surfaces, tastefully coordinated with each other, assure understated elegance.

The use of true bevel wheels in the winding mechanism ensures gentle and low-wear operation ---- a worldwide rarity in wristwatches. The arrangement of the fourth wheel and the third wheel under a common wheel-train bridge is typical of Moser. This feature is already present in Moser pocket watches dating from the 19th century. Like the engraved medallion,itself a mark of recognition of every authentic Moser watch that remains valid to the present day. Cut-off and polished edges, a sun pattern ground finish on the plate and bridges, as well as the Moser ground stripes, emphasize the intrinsic value of this movement that is visible through the sapphire glass back. Of course, this watch also incorporates the typical interchangeability of the Moser escapement with its gold pallet fork, gold escape wheel and Straumann hairspring.

Model Variations:
Ref. 321.503-015: Three-part designer case in rose gold, crocodile leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp.
Suggested Retail Price: CHF 12,500 / € 8,200

Ref. 321.503-016: Three-part designer case in white gold, crocodile leather strap with a white gold folding clasp.
Suggested Retail Price: CHF 12,500 / € 8,200

H. Moser & Cie. Moser Perpetual Moon

Swiss luxury watch brand H. Moser & Cie. presents a special watch with almost perpetual accuracy of the moon phase display. After more than 1,000 years of uninterrupted service, the error of this display is only 1 day.

This is an exceptional watch with a moon phase display which deviates only by a single day after more than 1,000 years. It displays the moon viewed from the northern hemisphere in a large window on the dial. The sun illuminates the moon on its orbit around the earth. Depending on the relative positions of the moon and the sun, we see different amounts of the illuminated half of the moon. These positions are called phases of the moon.

The phases indicated on this watch are marked in a unique way and can be set to the minute, read and predicted. One orbit of the moon around the earth, after which the moon resumes the same position in relation to the sun, lasts for 29.53059 days on average. To be more exact: 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. The complicated gear train of the PERPETUAL MOON translates this interval so precisely that the resulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day. Or a whole day after 1,027.30 years.
In the MOSER PERPETUAL MOON, the phases of the moon are displayed inside the window on the dial at 6 o’clock. This consists of the moon phase disc with the eight internationally established astronomical quarters of the moon marked as vertical lines, as well as a division into days applied to the dial. The moon phase disc shows the currently illuminated section of the moon as the light area of the disc in the window aperture. The dark surface, on the other hand, represents the shadow of the earth. Together they form the astronomical phase of the moon. A defined phase is indicated in such a way that the associated line on the moon disc lies precisely between the two triangles of the dial aperture.

In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display accuracy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the hour indicator and run with it continuously. Nevertheless, the moon phase must also be capable of correction via a pin push-button at 9 o’clock without interfering with the time display. This causes one of the 8 moon phases ton be advanced on each occasion. A wrap spring clutch – used here for the first time in a moon phase display – does precisely that. Additional orientation between day and night is provided by a reduced display with a small central hand rotating once every 24 hours.

The watch, with a diameter of 40.8 mm, has the typically elegant appearance of a Moser watch with a dark blue fumé dial, and appliquéd details in the same colour as the case and the same treatment for the hands. A sweep seconds hand and the generously dimensioned power reserve display, subdivided into days, on the movement side complete this watch. A dual spring barrel guarantees a running time of at least seven days when fully wound. Of course, this watch also features the typical interchangeability of the Moser escapement with its gold pallet fork and gold escape wheel.

The Moser Cal. HMC348.901 movement is a hand-wound movement with an extra-long power reserve, with true bevel wheels for gentle, low-wear winding and Moser teeth in the entire wheel train. Screwed gold mounts and Moser ground stripes also visually accentuate the intrinsic value of this movement that is visible through the sapphire glass back.

Model Variations:
Ref. 348.901-013: Three-part designer case in rose gold, crocodile leather strap with rose gold folding clasp, Suggested Retail price: CHF 27'000 / € 17'000

Ref. 348.901-015: Three-part designer case in platinum, crocodile leather strap with platinum folding clasp; Suggested Retail price:CHF 37'700/€ 24'800

H. Moser & Cie. Watches: Brand Info

H. Moser & Cie is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded by Heinrich Moser, a successful watchmaker and industrial pioneer from Schaffhausen in 1830's. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs 50 people, has eight of its own calibres and produces 1,200 watches per annum. H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as honorary chairman of the board and president of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation.

The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. MELB Holding is an independent, family group based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux. With the aim of promoting watchmaking savoir-faire and proven expertise in the field, MELB Holding holds shares in the H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence.

Biography - Heinrich Moser
Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 and grew up in a Schaffhausen watchmaking family. Both his grandfather, Johannes Moser (1730-1820), and his father, Erhard Moser (1760-1829), worked as town watchmakers in the town by the Rhine Falls. He learned the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his father between 1820 and 1824, and went on to broaden his knowledge after 1824 in the master watchmakers’ workshops in LeLocle (Switzerland). He had already come to recognize the restrictions imposed by the guild regulations, and he was a vehement opponent of these. At the same time, however, he did not ignore the quality-promoting aspects of these regulations, and he was even responsible for improving them.

He rapidly gained respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he was able to start a successful small business to supply spare parts. It only took Moser about eighteen months to develop a reputation as an outstandingly talented specialist, and he received offers of work from Italy and Paris. From 1826, he was able to work for the first time on his own account for a German merchant, for whom he built clocks into cases and pieces of furniture. In November 1827, the prospect of good business drew him to St. Petersburg in Russia, where in 1828 he opened H. Moser & Co. This marked the hour of inception of what would eventually grow into such a successful brand.

Moser’s business flourished, which was certainly attributable to the painstaking care that he took throughout his life to ensure that the watches sold by him were supplied to a high quality standard. Not a single watch was allowed to pass over the shop counter unless it had been inspected personally by him or one of his representatives. In order to maintain this demand on superior quality, he established a watch factory in LeLocle in 1829, which produced watches exclusively for his businesses in Europe and Russia. The building that was home to the company exists to this day.

Heinrich Moser
The range of Moser watches grew to include 70 different calibres. In addition to the movements supplied by his own factory, he also purchased movements from such renowned companies as Urban Jürgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. The latter’s company archive lists him as a customer from 1860 onwards. From them he procured up to 64 different calibres, of which 24 complications. The uncompromising quality of his watches gained him access as a supplier to the Imperial Russian Court, various royal houses and the armed forces. Within just a few years, he was selling watches to Japan, China and Persia, but also in the West in Paris and New York. Business continued to thrive, even in times of crisis, and Moser, who was by now a prosperous merchant and watch manufacturer, decided to return to Schaffhausen with his family at the end of 1848.

From this point on, he would see his true life’s work as the transformation of Schaffhausen, a very quiet town in those days, into a lively and attractive industrial location, which also had room for a watch production facility. At the same time, he set about the construction of the magnificent Charlottenfels manor house for his family.

In 1851 he completed the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplied the water to drive a turbine with an output of about 80 h.p. This was followed in 1853, in a joint venture with other personalities from Schaffhausen, by the establishment of the “Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei Schaffhausen” (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen) and, in the same year, the establishment of the “Schweizerische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen” (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser was a co-founder of the railway line Schaffhausen-Winterthur, also in 1853. Subsequent additional participations, company formations and cofinancing of company formations during this period can also be attributed to his tireless involvement.

In the winter of 1863/64, he embarked on the construction of the largest Swiss dam over the Rhine, with the intention of supplying neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. The turbines fed their energy into huge wire cable transmission systems, which then supplied it directly to a very wide range of production halls and workshops. This hydroelectric power station marked the dawn of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.

In spite of the recognition which Moser now enjoyed in Schaffhausen, he was still not untouched by disappointments. He never got over the fact that his only son, Henri Moser (1844-1923), showed no inclination to join his father’s watch company, let alone to succeed him at the helm.

Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. His second wife, Fanny, in accordance with his last will, inherited all his business interests. This made her one of the wealthiest women in Switzerland, although she had no desire to accept responsibility for what had by now become a global watch business. She sold the entire Russian operation to the local Managing Director, Mr Winterhalter, in 1877. The watch factory in LeLocle went to Paul Girard. It was stipulated in the contracts of sale that all successor companies would continue to operate in perpetuity under the registered brand names of H. Moser & Cie. or Heinrich Moser & Co.

Heinrich Moser remains omnipresent to this day in Schaffhausen. The house in which he was born in the old town still exists, as does Charlottenfels. The modern Schaffhausen generating station today stands on the site of the historic dam on the Rhine. A large number of the businesses formed by him or with his help are still operating successfully. The residents of Schaffhausen have themselves honoured their famous fellow citizen with the eponymous Moserstrasse, with a bronze bust in the Mosergarten park that is used as a venue for events and, not least, by opening Charlottenfels to the public.

History of H Moser & Cie watch brand
In 1826, towards the end of his apprenticeship and a period spent as a journeyman, Heinrich Moser contemplated where and how he might build a successful future for himself. In fact, his aim was to introduce the manufactory method of working based on the principle of the division of labour in his home town of Schaffhausen, and to establish a small watch factory for this purpose. However, the Town Council at the time declined his proposal and awarded the honorary office of town watchmaker to another individual. Moser emigrated to St. Petersburg, in Russia, where he founded the trading company, “H. Moser & Co.”, at the end of 1828. From this company name, Moser also developed the company signature in cursive script, which was almost always supplemented by a medallion. Until about 1918, with rare exceptions, the company name in Cyrillic and/or Latin script, as well as the medallion, remained the standard signature on all the watches marketed by Moser’s watch companies, whether sourced from its own production or from outside suppliers.

In 1829, he established a watch factory in LeLocle, which manufactured the pocket watches for his businesses in the European and Asiatic regions. By 1831, Moser was also able to open a branch in Moscow. Another astute business decision was the establishment of further branches in Nizhniy Novgorod and in Irbit – at the time the most important trade fair venues in Russia. The house of Moser thus had a presence in both of the Russian administrative centres, as well as at central trade fair venues.

Little by little, Heinrich Moser overtook the old-established businesses and its newer competitors. Within just a few years, he was selling watches to Japan and China, Persia and Turkestan, Siberia and Kamchatka. By around 1845, he had become the undisputed market leader in the whole of Russia, dominating the watch trade there. He had even established business links with Paris.

Minute Repeater Moon Phase ca 1870

Moser’s Russian enterprises at the time employed around 50 persons. Among them were German, Swiss, Russian and Swedish watchmakers. The names of the Swiss watchmakers, Johann Jakob Bär, G. Ganther, Johann Winterhalter, Victor Guye, Palk and Schwab, as well as Moser’s son-in-law, Adolf Richard, are known from letters. An Italian, Bianco, is also mentioned. His most capable employee was undoubtedly J. Winterhalter, who subsequently took over Moser’s company in Russia.

Even after Moser returned to Schaffhausen as a successful and wealthy businessman, he remained a passionate watchmaker at heart. He was aware from his training that, as far as pocket watches were concerned, case manufacture and quality often represented a weak point in the watch manufacturing process, and he opened a workshop with around 20 workers in Schaffhausen in 1853, where mainly silver watch cases were made. Three or four years later, he added a second workshop. In 1863, he equipped the workshops with completely new mechanical equipment, mostly to his own design, to facilitate case manufacture.

His only son, Henri Moser (1844-1923), showed little interest in the watch business, much to his father’s displeasure. As a result, they went their separate ways in 1870. On the death of Heinrich Moser in 1874, his second wife, Fanny, inherited all his business interests and the watch factory in LeLocle. She had no desire to accept the responsibility, however, and in 1877 she sold the entire trading business to Johann Winterhalter and the watch factory in LeLocle to Paul Girard. In both transactions, she included conditions in the contracts to ensure that all the successor companies would continue to operate in perpetuity under the brand names of H. Moser & Cie. or Heinrich Moser & Co., in accordance with her husband’s instructions. All of the enterprises passed into other hands in this way. The only son of Heinrich Moser, Henri, had no male offspring, and the name Moser also died out in this family.

In accordance with the contractual undertaking, the company name and the brand name remained unchanged, both in the global trade and in the watch factory at LeLocle. This situation continued until about 1917, when the Russian October revolution completely eliminated the watch market in the country that had been dominated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company – Cornelius Winterhalter from about 1908 to 1918, and from 1910 to 1918 Octave Meylan – travelled back to Switzerland in early 1918, totally expropriated.

Around 1920, the State-owned “Central Watch Repair Workshop” in Moscow was formed from the remains of the Moser watch businesses, and between 1927 and 1930 a start was made on the establishment of its own watch production. Moser watches continued to be regarded as a synonym for work of the highest quality for some considerable time afterwards. As late as 1966, the USSR presented one of its high-ranking military officers with an original Moser pocket watch in 18-carat gold, dating from the period before the expropriation, with a specially engraved dedication. This watch is now owned by Moser Schaffhausen AG as a special contemporaneous exhibit.

Even after the take-over by the Girard family, the facility in LeLocle remained a production location for fine watches. It continued to adhere to Moser’s philosophy of supporting the business on several pillars – pocket watches and wristwatches – and of working closely with the best suppliers. However, the Cyrillic script on the inside of the dust cover that had frequently been used until then was now omitted from the signature.

Information from 1953 points to an expansion in wristwatch production, and reference is made to a water-resistant 12-ligne watch and an 11 ½-ligne automatic watch, among others.

H. Moser & Co. was also mentioned in 1973 as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches, predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. In 1979, the watch factory in LeLocle became part of the “Dixi-Mechanique” Group and traded as “Hy Moser & Cie.”.

The original brand of the founder, “H. Moser & Cie.”, was once more registered internationally by Dr. Jürgen Lange in 2002. Moser Schaffhausen AG was launched jointly with representatives of the Moser family. Today the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser – Roger Nicholas Balsiger – is Honorary Chairman of the Board of Directors. The Company has returned to the international watch arena, in the autumn of 2005, to mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth.

The new watches that have been developed by H. Moser & Cie. over the last three years add a hint of understatement to their traditionally classic/elegant appearance, and, entirely in keeping with the tradition of the establishment, utilize mechanical movements designed inhouse and executed to the highest quality standard. It goes without saying that these movements, which incorporate a cornucopia of technical innovations and offer high customer benefit, can only be found in watches from H. Moser & Cie.

Gold Hunter Pocket Watch

The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch factory:
Moser Schaffhausen AG has achieved very positive development in the first four years following its relaunch in Schaffhausen in 2002 by the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, and the horological expert, Dr. Jürgen Lange, with the backing of a small group of investors.

Although the main concern initially was the international registration of the H. Moser & Cie brand and research into the history of the Moser family and its watches, the nature of the work changed radically over time to take account of new watchmaking technologies. It very soon became clear to all concerned that success would be gained not only with new marketing, but above all from traditional watchmaking with innovative approaches and high customer benefit. This can only be achieved by using your own movements, a truly Herculean task for a newly established company. However, two of Heinrich Moser’s guiding principles supported this company strategy.

First principle: You can only build the best watches if you use the best suppliers. A clear rejection of the beliefs advocated so strongly by manufacturers in recent years, that you should try to make as much as possible yourself. Traditional watchmaking is characterized by a plethora of special solutions and centuries-old experience, so that you can only obtain a really out-of-the-ordinary component part by going to the specialists who have already been producing it for several generations. This is precisely what we do. We do not resort to a manufactory in Schaffhausen or Neuhausen, but collaborate intensively with the best practitioners in their field, predominantly in the Swiss Jura.

Second principle: Moser specializes in movements whose component parts, because of their refined engineering, cannot be produced cost-effectively in large volumes. This is precisely what interests connoisseurs of mechanical watches most. A modern wristwatch with a hand-assembled traditional movement and component parts which, because of their intricate manufacturing technology, are no longer available from the volume manufacturers. For example, gold pallets and gold escape wheels; true bevel wheels in the winding train; screwed traditional gold mounts; a temperature-compensated balance spring with an overcoil; a true screw balance with white gold weight compensation screws and steel adjusting screws held in a slotted thread,and traditional adjustment via the adjusting screws on the balance instead of an index system, etc.

Moser was able to assemble a highly motivated team, which unites experience and passion, by attracting to it such seasoned watch designers and prototype watchmakers as Andreas Strehler, Martin Spöring, Rolf Lang and others. Supported on a broad and financially sound footing, this team has achieved an extraordinary feat. The result of this passion can be seen in the first Moser catalogue of the new era.

In September 2005, to mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the new watches were presented to the public for the first time at a lavish celebration held against the backdrop of the Rhine Falls. The timepieces met with an enthusiastic response. A technically oriented seminar before an invited audience on the following day emphasized the competence of all the members of the team and had to be extended because of the considerable interest shown. With its internationally oriented stance from the outset, the team was able to appoint its first official sales partners at the unofficial preview of the prototypes at BaselWorld 2005. Since the autumn of 2005, Moser watches are again available all over the world.

In order to be able to satisfy the surprisingly high level of demand for the exclusive Moser watches, with their elegance and their anticipated high potential to appreciate in value, the main emphasis is now being directed at consolidating the company structure and increasing the number of watches produced. If a maximum of 500 watches are manufactured in the fourth business year, around 1,000 watches should be produced in the fifth year. The longer-term target is to produce between 5,000 and a maximum of 7,000 watches each year.

To meet this target, it was also necessary to strengthen the marketing expertise at Moser. In Wirz Werbung AG Zürich, Moser Schaffhausen AG has enlisted a partner last year that has already made a mark for itself through numerous national and international advertising campaigns, in particular in the horological industry. The campaign presented at last year’s BaselWorld 2006 bears eloquent witness to this proficiency.

The interchangeable escapement module: Ever since it first made its appearance, the interchangeable escapement module from Moser has attracted a great deal of attention. It actually incorporates an entire series of accomplishments, of a kind which had long since disappeared from the arena of watchmaking technology. These are features which require extreme attention to detail in their manufacture and are not regarded as viable in large-scale production. However, this is precisely what causes the heart of all Moser enthusiasts to beat faster: a watch that embodies novel solutions, whose manufacture only makes sense in smaller series of between 5 and 10,000 watches per year: a true screw balance with weight compensation screws made from a special white gold alloy in order to combine strength and high weight. Adjusting screws in steel with crossed slots in the screw head to permit very sensitive adjustment. Slots in the screw holes of the balance with a width of only 0.07 mm, so that the adjusting screws are held securely in any desired position. A dragon lever that is precisely adjustable via cams, which guarantees that the pallet fork comes to a full stop and as such replaces the banking pins. The lateral pallets made of solid gold with glass-smooth and hardened working surfaces and, not least, an escape wheel similarly made of hardened solid gold, to ensure that the escapement in its entirety does not need to be lubricated. It will not make any difference, however, if you lubricate it.

The module itself, which represents the aspirations of the Moser watchmakers to enable the time spent in service to be reduced, has also met with a very positive reaction. It has, in fact, been found that a customer whose watch is being overhauled can get his watch back much earlier if the escapement module is replaced by an already cleaned and adjusted unit, and if the work on the dirty escapement assembly can then be undertaken by a second watchmaker at his own pace, without feeling pressurized by the customer. It makes absolutely no difference whether this work is carried out locally in the service workshop of the watchmaker or in Moser’s own workshops. Both are possible and envisaged without any problem. The module as a whole is replaced by removing only two screws. The blocking lever present in all Moser movements thus prevents the spring barrel from running down by blocking the seconds wheel. This also provides additional security in the event that the need to relax the tension in the spring barrel beforehand is overlooked. As a result, the exchange of the escapement module proceeds so straightforwardly that a customer who prefers to get his “own” escapement module back after cleaning also does not pose any problem. He simply continues to wear his watch with a module provided by the watchmaker, which can be exchanged at a later date.

The perpetual calendar from Moser:
The master watchmakers at Moser have completely redeveloped the perpetual calendar, which indicates the correct date depending on the length of each month. This classic complication is combined for the first time with a neat, restrained and elegant dial. The date in the MOSERPERPETUAL 1 is accordingly displayed in an entirely traditional way as a number in a large dial window at 3 o’clock. The perpetual calendar from Moser is the only one in the world to feature a “Flash Calendar” display. This means that the date on the watch jumps directly from the end of one month to the start of the following month, without any intermediate stages. No incorrect date is displayed during the switching phase; for example, from 28 February to 1 March, “28” is followed directly by “1” in the window on the dial. The perpetual calendar can naturally be adjusted both forwards and backwards. The month is indicated with a small centre hand by utilizing the hour indices. The leap year indication, which can be adjusted via a pin pusher, is present on the back of the HMC341 movement.

Double Pull Crown” -The mechanism of the winding crown from H. Moser & Cie:
The watch development engineers at Moser are challenging even quite traditional functional processes of the wristwatch. This also applies to the various functions of the winding crown. The mechanism of the crown in watches from Moser also has three functions, which are selected by different positions. Position 1 is used for winding the watch, Position 2 for setting the date, and the hands can be adjusted in Position 3 – so far entirely traditional. Moser has developed the “Double Pull Crown” mechanism, to permit the various positions of the winding crown to be selected exactly. This ensures that, when the crown is pulled out fully, only Position 2 for setting the date is engaged. Only by releasing the crown briefly, and by then pulling it out fully for a second time, is it possible to access Position 3, which adjusts the hands – irritation eliminated. A final press on the crown returns it to winding position 1. The tiresome searching for the central position of the winding crown for its adjustment function is now a thing of the past in all Moser watches with a date indicator. This is a new function with high exclusivity and considerable customer benefit.

The Straumann Hairspring®:
Two years ago, when the first interchangeable module with a Swiss lever escapement was introduced in the watches of H. Moser & Cie, it attracted considerable attention. The exclusivity of this horological solution is represented by the escape wheel and pallet fork in solid gold, adjusting screws on the balance instead of an index, and a completely novel stop system for the lateral gold pallet fork – the list of special and exclusive features could continue. This year(2008), the passion of the Moser watchmakers goes straight to the heart of the oscillating system: the helical spring. Its consistent oscillation in combination with the balance ensures the even running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser development engineers have devoted to it the high degree of attention that it deserves. Working closely with its associate company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on the know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original formula and technology of the legendary NIVAROX material have been reviewed over the past five years. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann – the grandfather of our present Board member, Dr. Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed a fracture-resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free andantimagnetic alloy consisting of seven elements, and applied for a patent for this invention. The patent describes the first concrete formulation, which exhibits the desired characteristics and also finds an application in watches as a balance spring material. It is still in use today in slightly modified form in practically all volume-produced movements with a mechanical oscillation system. For many years, production of this material was supervised by Straumann in the interests of quality assurance. These responsibilities were assumed about five years ago by Precision Engineering AG, which has now installed its own production line, from melting of the alloy to the finished escapement system, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie.

All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie will gradually be equipped only with the Straumann Hairspring®. Starting with the new product for the 2007 exhibition, the “HENRY Double Hairspring” with a Straumann double hairspring escapement, and the already legendary “MOSER PERPETUAL 1”. In tribute to their inventor, the brand names Straumann Spirale®, Spiral Straumann® and Straumann Hairspring® now benefit from international protection.

The exact combination of all the highest-grade materials in the smelting charge, the processing of the raw ingot with a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80 kg into a wire with a diameter of only 0.075 mm – thinner than a human hair – demand technological expertise and the best tools acquired over the generations. Yet only the final homogeneity of the wire and the ultra-precise rolling of the round wire into flat strip can provide the conditions necessary for balance springs that are sufficiently accurate for use in chronometers. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring® springs is thus flat-rolled to an astounding accuracy of 0.0001 mm, equivalent to 0.1 thousandth of a millimetre.

Straumann double hairspring escapement:
Two balance springs to compensate for gravitational error -H. Moser & Cie is again revolutionizing the heart of the mechanical watch: this time, the escapement. The interchangeable Moser escapement module in all watches from H. Moser & Cie created a major sensation throughout the world at the time of its introduction. The use of traditional materials of the highest grade in conjunction with the simplest and most reliable interchangeability appealed to watchmakers and watch enthusiasts alike. The balance springs, which in combination with the balance are responsible for the basic rate of the watch, are of course still manufactured from the self-compensating material Nivarox. This allows the so-called Breguet terminal curve to be bent in the second plane above the balance spring. When correctly dimensioned, this curve ensures that the balance spring does not become distorted as it oscillates, and the centre of gravity remains at the centre of the arbor, so that the gravitational force of the earth is unable to produce any errors. Although theoretically correct, a minutely small residual error always remains in practice, because the terminal curve, which is very intricate to bend, does not actually possess a 100% ability to ensure that the centre of gravity remains at the centre of the arbor – a fact which naturally irritate sthe watchmaker/inventors at Moser. Accordingly, they searched for a compensation process with which to equalize this gravitational error at its point of origin, rather than simply attempting to eliminate the effect of the error, as is the case with a tourbillon, for example. The result is the double hairspring escapement from Moser.

In this escapement, two balance springs of identical construction are arranged in such a way that the centres of gravity of the two springs move outwards on opposing symmetrical paths during oscillation. The cumulative centre of gravity of the two springs thus remains at the centre of the arbor at all times, and as such has no negative influence on the accuracy of the watch.

The prerequisite to manufacturing such a complicated escapement system, of course, is the ability to master the production of the balance springs down to the smallest detail. It is essential to be able to guarantee that both balance springs possess identical characteristic curves and attachments. H. Moser & Cie, working jointly with its associate company, Precision Engineering AG, has developed the Straumann Hairspring® on the basis of the formula drawn up by the original inventor of the Nivarox material, Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann. This has ensured that the material exhibits the necessary homogeneity and the appropriate mechanical properties. What is more, the balance springs are manufactured so consistently that they are even able to ensure uniform compensation for any elasticity in the presence of temperature fluctuations. In this way, the centre of gravity does not wander from the centre even in response to changes in temperature.

This revolutionary escapement was named the STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING escapement in tribute to Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann, who patented the material Nivarox and the associated manufacturing technologies in 1931. As befits Moser, this STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING escapement is also executed as an interchangeable module, which can be easily replaced by releasing only two screws. It naturally also includes an escape wheel and pallet fork in solid gold with the hardened functional surfaces for low-friction and wear-reduced operation that are typical of Moser.

The blocking lever incorporated in all watches in the collection from H. Moser & Cie also ensures that the escapement in this extraordinary escapement module can be removed with the barrel fully wound, but without the watch running down uncontrollably. Extraordinary technology in fascinatingly elegant watches is what makes the collection from H.

The H. Moser & Cie watch brand and its associate companies:
The H. Moser & Cie watch brand and its associate companies, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group, were brought together in a newly established holding company at the turn of the year 2007/2008. The founding and principal shareholders of the three companies have embarked on this step jointly in order to maintain their continued independence and to safeguard their future growth strategy.

The remarkable success of the H. Moser & Cie watch brand following its relaunch in 2005 and the equally successful demand for the products of Precision Engineering AG, which specializes in the manufacture of all the escapement components, made the pooling of their capacities an obvious next step. One of the main arguments was the need for independence and for safeguarding the supply of all strategically important parts. The multi-million financial participation was raised exclusively from the existing shareholders. There are now three areas run as centres of excellence within Moser Group AG. Moser Schaffhausen AG is the lead company with the successfully and internationally established premium watch brand of H. Moser & Cie. The brand has been in existence since 1828 and celebrates its 180th anniversary this year. A successful collection of very elegant, timelessly beautiful watches with incomparably complex internal workings was launched in 2005 to mark the 200th anniversary of the birth of the founder of the company, Heinrich Moser from Schaffhausen. The highly authentic nature of the brand deriving from its readily verifiable history, historic collectors’ pieces of the highest quality, the best watchmaking technology in exclusive movements of the new era and, not least, the expertise of all those involved, create a brand potential with enormous promise.

Precision Engineering AG concerns itself, among other things, with the development, manufacture and marketing of all the components required for an escapement assembly. Established in 2001, the company took over the activities in the watchmaking segment of the Straumann Institute in Waldenburg, which specialized in dental implants. After a period of development of around three years, Precision Engineering AG was already one of the top five companies in the world with the necessary in-house expertise to smelt Nivarox, a self-compensating material, which is achieving unparalleled successes in present-day watchmaking technology. The balance springs from Precision Engineering AG are based on the classic formula and the process technology of Reinhard Straumann. In tribute to the inventor, the trade marks Straumann Spirale®, Spiral Straumann® and Straumann Hairspring® have been internationally registered. The product range also includes pallet forks and escape wheels made of solid gold, steel or other materials, along with true screw balances and their weight compensation screws.

MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group is the junior company of the Group. It was established in order to keep the strategicallyimportant manufacturing technologies and machinery in-house. Here there are ultra-modern erosion machines, 5-axis milling machines working to an accuracy of a thousandth of a millimetre, CNC machining centres, burnishing and hob milling machines, as well as one of the most accurate rolling machines in the world with a rolling tolerance of 0.1 thousandth of a millimetre for manufacturing the balance springs, and a high-vacuum furnace; these are the superlatives of accuracy, precision-finishing and material technology, without which today’s premium-class wristwatch can no longer survive. Large series are not machined here, however. The principal purpose of MSG AG is to be able to produce prototypes and preproduction models more rapidly and more accurately. It now also manufactures a large proportion of the escapement components that are supplied by Precision Engineering AG to the entire watchmaking industry. On no account is the philosophy of working with the best suppliers for series production, adopted by Heinrich Moser in 1828, departed from in all these activities. For only those who have been involved in the manufacture of parts for watches of the highest class for several generations know precisely what is demanded in order to meet the refinements and special features of the individual parts. Moser Group AG together with all its suppliers will accordingly endeavor to balance out capacity bottlenecks, try out new ideas, put technologies to the test and achieve common interests.

1730: Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After an apprenticeship as a watchmaker, he assumes the hereditary and honorary position of town watchmaker. He later becomes a Cantonal Councillor.

1760: Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He inherits the position of town watchmaker from his father and is himself a member of the Cantonal Council.

1805: Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his father between 1820 and 1824.

1824: Heinrich Moser’s travels take him to Le Locle (Switzerland) and its master watchmakers’ workshops. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he is able to start a successful small business to supply spare parts. It only takes Moser about eighteen months to develop a reputation as an outstandingly talented specialist, and he receives offers of work from Italy and Paris.

1826: Moser works for the first time on his own account by building clocks into cases and pieces of furniture.

1827: The prospect of good business draws Moser to St. Petersburg in Russia. After a hazardous journey by horse and carriage and by ship, his money eventually dwindles away. He starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops.

1828: The trading company, H. Moser & Co., is founded in St. Petersburg. This marks the hour of inception of what would eventually grow into such a successful brand. Moser’s business flourishes, which can certainly be attributed to the fact that the watches sold by him are supplied only in high quality. Not a single watch is allowed to pass over the shop counter unless it has been inspected personally by him or one of his representatives.

1829: In order to maintain this demand on superior quality, he establishes a watch factory in Le Locle to produce watches exclusively for his businesses in Europe and Russia.

1848: Moser, by now a wealthy merchant and watch manufacturer, decides to return to Schaffhausen with his family. From this point on, he sees his true life’s work as the transformation of Schaffhausen, a very quiet town in those days, into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time, he also builds the magnificent Charlottenfels manor house for his family.

1851: Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, the water from which drives a turbine with an output of about 80 h.p.

1853: In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes the “Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei Schaffhausen” (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen) and, in the same year, the “Schweizerische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen” (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaffhausen-Winterthur railway line, also in 1853. He also opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen.

1860: The company archive of Jaeger-LeCoultre from this year lists Heinrich Moser as a customer. Over time, he procures up to 64 different calibres, including 24 complications, from them. The uncompromising quality of his watches gains him access as a supplier to the Imperial Russian Court, various royal houses and the armed forces. Within just a few years, he is selling watches to Japan, China and Persia, but also in the Western world e.g. in Paris and New York.

1863/64: Heinrich Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam over the Rhine, to supply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. This hydroelectric power station marks the dawn of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.

1868 : Moser supports F. A. Jones in the foundation of his International Watch Company (IWC) by providing premises and energy to drive the machines.

1874: Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His last will names his second wife, Fanny, as the heiress of all his business interests.

1877: Fanny sells the entire Russian operation to the local Managing Director, Mr Winterhalter. The watch factory in Le Locle goes to Paul Girard. The contracts of sale stipulate that all successor companies must continue to operate in perpetuity under the registered brand names of H. Moser & Cie. or Heinrich Moser & Co.

1917: The Russian October revolution completely eliminates the private watch market in the country that is dominated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company travel back to Switzerland in early 1918 totally expropriated. The business in Le Locle is spared from these political upheavals and continues to operate unaffected. An attempt is made to compensate for the loss of the Russian markets through increased exports to other countries.

1920: The State-owned “Central Watch Repair Workshop” in Moscow is formed from the remains of the Moser watch businesses.

1953: Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket watches produced steadily decreases. Some of the watches also bear the name “Henry Moser”, although this is in breach of the 1877 agreements.

1973: H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches, predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread throughout the Swiss watch industry also affects the business in Le Locle.

1979: The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the “Dixi-Mechanique” Group and trades as “Hy Moser & Cie.”.

2002: The original brand of the founder, “H. Moser & Cie.”, is registered once more internationally by Dr. Jürgen Lange. Moser Schaffhausen AG is launched jointly with representatives of the Moser family. Today the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser – Roger Nicholas Balsiger – is Honorary Chairman of the Board of Directors.

2005: To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company, Moser Schaffhausen AG, is once again launching a range of watches on the international watch arena under the H. Moser & Cie. brand that are faithful to the legacy of the founding father.

2006: H. Moser & Cie introduces its 4 watch ranges, Moser-Perpetual 1, Monard Date, Monard and Mayu, to a broad public for the first time at “BaselWorld 2006”. 2006 The collaboration with the internationally renowned Wirz Werbung AG Zürich is also announced at “BaselWorld 2006”, and the new communications platform is presented.

2006: MONTRE DE L’ANNEE 2006 – 2nd prize for the MOSER-PERPETUAL 1. In the opinion of the professional jury of the special-interest watch magazine, MONTRES PASSION: “The classic case of the Perpetual 1/Flash Calendar from Moser conceals a highly innovative mechanical movement”.

2006: GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In November 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss horological industry. The MOSER-PERPETUAL 1 takes first place in the complicated watches category.

2007 : “BaselWorld 2007” is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING, developed jointly over several years with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an international specialist audience.

2007: The new HENRY Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the revolutionary double hairspring escapement from Moser, is presented at “BaselWorld 2007”.

2007: Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white lustre, also embraces the realm of watches from H. Moser & Cie. The MAYU Palladium model is presented to the public.

2008: The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary.

2008: The holding company, MOSER GROUP AG, is founded. All the associate companies are now united under a single roof. Moser Schaffhausen AG, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group together assure the independence, major public success and enormous growth of the H. Moser & Cie brand.

2008: The MAYU Black Pearl and MAYU White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and elegant stingray leather straps are launched on the market.

2008: The MAYU Palladium receives the Straumann double hairspring escapement with its escape wheel and pallet fork in hardened white gold. An external clue is provided by a newly developed colouring for the dial.

2009: The Moser Group AG continues to invest in the production verticalisation of all its companies. To date, approximately 70 new jobs have been created and the company has moved into its own production premises.

2009: Given the great demand for the highly elegant Fumé dial, both the HENRY and the MONARD are now available in this design with a brilliant white palladium case and the Straumann double hairspring escapement assembly.

2009: The reproduction of the 1875 first edition about the life of Heinrich Moser is issued in an exclusive private edition. The book, which was written just shortly after his death and which is rarely to be found in the original, is now presented in a slipcase together with the translation into other languages and modern typography.

2010: The eight-figure investments made by the Moser Group in expertise, longevity and growth have been largely completed. The Moser Group is now strengthened as it emerges from the international economic crisis.

2010: H. Moser & Cie makes its first appearance as main sponsor of a major equestrian event. The 4-star CSI Basel 2010 achieved a spectacular debut with outstanding international competitors and an exclusive supporting programme.

2010: The MOSER PERPETUAL MOON is introduced. Another superlative watch with a moon phase display, capable of being set to the minute and running without adjustment for more than 1,000 years.

2011: The PERPETUAL GOLDEN EDITION celebrates its debut. Solid gold fumé dial, gold hands and a movement constructed with solid gold plates and bridges in combination with the interchangeable Straumann double hairspring escapement, ignite a dazzling display of emotions culminating in the world’s first functional diamond end stone in a shock-absorber. The PERPETUAL FUMÉ Palladium is the only watch with a perpetual calendar to combine the benefits of the double hairspring escapement and the complexity of an archetypical, elegant Moser watch. The CSI in Basel, the world’s best-endowed indoor show jumping competition, is upgraded to a five-star tournament, thanks in large part to the sponsorship of H. Moser & Cie. Moser marks the fact with the launch of the MONARD Marrone. The brown dials, which were received with such great acclaim last year in the MAYU Marrone, are now also available in the larger MONARD model.

Official website:

PRODUCT GALLERY : BLU (Bernard Lederer Universe)

Novelties 2009
Blu Terzett
Blu Majesty Tourbillon MT1 & MT3
Blu Planet Collection
Blu Open Planet Collection
Blu Quartett
Blu Galaxy

Click here to know about BLU (Bernard Lederer Universe)brand of watches.

Chopard: Brand Profile, History and Products

Chopard is a Switzerland based watchmaking & Jewellery brand founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860. In 2010 Chopard celebrated its its 150'th anniversary and the firm is still pervaded by the spirit instilled in it by its founder and nurtured by a blend of fine hand craftsmanship and daring technical developments.

From the founding family to that of Karl Scheufele which took it over in 1963, Chopard continues to be governed by its enduring principles, including a taste for excellence, the pursuit of quality, creativity, innovation, independence, and fundamental human respect.

After modest beginnings, Chopard established itself in the 19th century as a benchmark in the field of precision watches. However, it subsequently experienced a decline that lasted until 1963 when it was bought up by Karl Scheufele. Along with his wife Karin and his two children, Karl-Friedrich and Caroline, he has shaped the firm’s meteoric and constant growth: from the first Happy Diamonds model to the latest Haute Joaillerie watches stemming from the fertile imagination of Caroline; and right through to the ultra-sophisticated L.U.C watches resulting from the unswerving determination of Karl-Friedrich, the whole world knows and wears Chopard. Over the past few decades, Chopard has explored global horizons while remaining true to its two core fields of competence: watchmaking and jewellery.

Four essential values: The three Chopard production sites in Meyrin, Pforzheim and Fleurier are dynamic and vibrant hubs where skills are handed down and expertise is cultivated. They provide a setting in which various personalities can express a shared vision and values. Very few high-end brands so clearly highlight this concept of the firm as a “House” built on four key pillars:
-watchmaking and jewellery know-how dedicated to ensuring impeccable quality;
-respect for tradition, family values; and the importance placed on passing on expertise;
-creativity backed by innovation, brilliantly exemplified by models such as the L.U.C and 1000 Miglia watches, as well as by Happy Diamonds and Haute Joaillerie creations;
-and finally, Chopard’s commitment to philanthropic and responsible patronage activities.

A global strategy: Under the impetus of Karl Scheufele, Chopard’s design and distribution strategy was established in the 1970s and subsequently amplified by his children, Karl-Friedrich and Caroline. Karin and Karl Scheufele continue to chair the group, while Karl-Friedrich and Caroline have been appointed co-presidents.

Karl-Friedrich, a trained goldsmith and watchmaker, is responsible for the men’s watch division, Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier and its related developments, as well as handling the technological and commercial aspects of the company. Caroline, who is fascinated by precious stones and a trained gemmologist, is in charge of design, Haute Joaillerie, boutique organisation and management, along with fragrances and accessories. The family members regularly consult with each other regarding decisions on corporate development involving issues such as global strategy, production, distribution, new designs and new products. Their approach is guided by a concern for detail, a cautious attitude, and a policy of small incremental steps. The determination to ensure that everything is self-financed is another of the company’s strengths.

An independent network: Various subsidiaries have been established so as to consolidate Chopard’s international presence. In 1975, the French subsidiary was set up in Paris, followed in 1976 by the Chopard Watch Corporation in New York. In 2010, Chopard has a total of 12 subsidiaries in Germany, Austria, Spain, France, the United Kingdom, Italy, the United States, Latin America, Asia, Japan, Hong Kong and Malaysia. Active in 124 countries, the group employs a total of 1,700 people and makes 75,000 watches and as many pieces of jewellery per year.

Independence, an essential value for Chopard, is also expressed by its independent retail network. The first own-name boutique was opened in 1983 in Hong Kong, at the same time as the retail division was established, so as to ensure direct contacts with consumers. Chopard boutiques are now dotted around the world, including in Geneva, Moscow, Dubai, Beverly Hills, Munich, London, Mumbai, Tokyo, Almaty, Saint Barthélémy, Gstaad, Marrakech, Shanghai… In 2007, a new boutique concept designed by French architect Thierry Despont was introduced with the inauguration of a flagship store at 709 Madison Avenue, New York – followed in 2009 by the opening of another new-look boutique in Singapore. As of 2010, the network is composed of 120 boutiques and 1,600 points of sale.

Vertical integration: Eager to reduce its dependence on suppliers, Karl Scheufele has persistently striven to achieve vertical integration of production. “We make almost everything ourselves, from cases to straps. Ideas are almost instantly translated into reality thanks to our two watch and jewellery design studios”. Chopard is thus endowed with a considerable sum of expertise and innovative capacity.

Uniting 45 professions: The Meyrin, Fleurier and Pforzheim sites host an impressive range of engineers, prototype makers, designers, goldsmiths, watchmakers, turners, tool-makers, polishers, smelters, engravers, mechanics operating CNC machinery: all are actively involved in making watch or jewellery models, self-winding movements and other vital components. In Meyrin, Chopard even makes its own gold alloys; Pforzheim is mainly devoted to jewellery, while Fleurier produces the high-end L.U.C watches. When it comes to designing exhibition booths for trade shows and boutique displays, Chopard also has its own in-house decoration department. After-sales service is fully integrated, as are the communication and marketing teams.

Fundamental training: In order to pass on its expertise and to nurture innovation, Chopard has its own internal training division. Each year, 25 apprentice watchmakers and jewellers taking four-year training courses are supervised by an apprenticeship master active on all three sites. The 2008 Best Training Company prize awarded by the State of Geneva in the category of Applied Arts rewarded Chopard’s long-term commitment to education.

History of Chopard:
Chopard-Scheufele (1860-1919): Their respective births in Sonvilier and Pforzheim determined the destiny of Louis-Ulysse Chopard and Karl Scheufele. Fate would one day lead them to cross paths, but for the time being the Chopard family settled in Sonvilier at the heart of the Swiss Jura, while the Scheufeles lived in Pforzheim in the Black Forest region of Germany.

The father of Louis-Ulysse Chopard, Félicien, was an experienced farmer and a man of tradition who encouraged his sons to learn the watchmaking trade. The younger of the two, born on May 4th 1836, showed a particular gift for watchmaking. The ambitious Louis-Ulysse quickly grasped the fact that it was the “comptoirs” or watch dealers that earned the greatest profit from the work of the farmers who assembled movement blanks during the winter season: each spring, the agents picked them up, cased them up and then marketed the finished watches. It was therefore better to work independently, and in 1860, at the age of just 24, he accordingly set up his own L.U.C watch manufactory in Sonvilier.

In order to stand out from its numerous competitors, Chopard specialised in making innovative precision watches featuring sophisticated decoration. The company canvassed customers in Eastern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia to show its finest creations, and the Tsar of Russia soon became a loyal client. In 1913, Louis-Ulysse placed its first ad for the “Fabrique de montres L.U.C L.-U. Chopard, maison fondée en 1860”. His son Paul-Louis took over the firm shortly afterwards.

At the heart of the Black Forest in Germany, the jewellery industry flourished in the small town of Pforzheim. August 6th 1877 saw the birth of a boy christened Karl Gotthilf, son of Johannes and Sophie Scheufele, in Pforzheim. His parents instilled in him several fundamental values such as boldness, perseverance, an entrepreneurial spirit, as well as a love of fine craftsmanship and of nature. However, his life was turned upside down by the death of his parents and he was placed in an orphanage in Pforzheim, where he learned watchmaking.

Having started out as a sales representative, he launched out on his own in 1904. The contacts he established in the Far East and in Russia lent his company an international dimension. ESZEHA (spelling out the first three letters of his family name as pronounced in German), the manufacturing company run by Karl Scheufele I, made pendants, medals, bracelets, as well as brooches in gold, diamonds and pearls adorned with floral motifs inspired by Art Nouveau. In 1911, rather than delivering cases and bracelets to Swiss firms, Karl Scheufele I began assembling watches and marketing articles in platinum and gold watches. In 1912, he scored a great commercial success with a clip serving to attach a pocket-watch to the wrist or to wear it as a necklace. An innovative system at the centre of the bracelet served to house and secure the watch firmly between two ‘paws’. Women were quick to adopt this new way of wearing jewellery.

The Art Deco craze(1919-1938): Following the founder’s death on January 30th 1915 in Sonvilier, his son Paul-Louis and his grand-son Paul-André took over the family business. Chopard’s pocket chronometers were extremely popular with elegant men, and its gem-set ladies’ wristwatches were both practical and attractive. Chopard produced extremely accurate timepieces with a high degree of technical sophistication. In 1937, having realised that Sonvilier was virtually unknown on the world map, Chopard relocated to Geneva, a renowned international watchmaking centre.

After World War I had bled Europe dry, Karl Scheufele I anticipated the shift in demand by eliminating jewellery models from his product catalogue and replacing them with watches. He presented his collections in Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe and as far afield as China.

The Art Deco movement revolutionised the decorative arts during the 1920s. Chopard and the Scheufeles made full use of this new trend. The Art Deco influence is particularly visible in Eszeha “wallet watches”, meaning watches incorporated into dedicated cases. The latter, made from Chinese-lacquered or enamelled silver and gold adorned with precious stones and geometrical motifs, concealed tiny travel clocks that were genuine pieces of jewellery.

Karl Scheufele I was considering buying up a watch factory in Switzerland, but the Third Reich made such a move impossible. On August 5th 1941, while out on a walk in the Black Forest with his grandsons Johan and Rüthchen, he died after a heart attack on the eve of his 64th birthday. That same day, his son was wounded on the Russian front. Upon his return in 1942, Karl Scheufele II succeeded his father at the head of the company.

Modern times (1945-1963): The 1950s saw the birth of highly sought-after Eszeha models featuring original shapes: dials that were hidden or set into small crowns, undulating lugs, bracelets embellished by tiny bows, or broader versions with articulated links.

Weakened by his exertions, Karl Scheufele II entrusted the factory and its 35 employees to the care of his 20 year-old son, Karl III, also a goldsmith and a watchmaker. He passed away in Heidelberg on April 8th 1966.Having inherited his grandfather’s creative bent, Karl Scheufele III began designing impeccably crafted dainty jewellery models and watches. He was keen to make his own movements, and realised the only solution would be to buy up a Swiss manufacturer.

An unexpected event hastened the onset of this new challenge. In 1962, Karl Scheufele III learned that the Geneva-based company with which he had been dealing for years also delivered movement blanks to one of his fiercest competitors. He immediately revoked the contract with this supplier and had an advert published in a number of newspapers, openly stating his intention to purchase a Swiss manufacturing company.

After a period of commercial prosperity, Chopard was clearly on the decline: Paul-André, representing the third generation and undoubtedly an extremely talented watchmaker, was no businessman. This 70 year-old owner was looking to sell the firm and agreed to meet Karl Scheufele III, with whom he shared the same determined attitude, the same practical good sense and innate creativity, as well as the same love of fine craftsmanship. In acquiring this manufacturing company, Karl Scheufele III entered the extremely exclusive club of great Swiss watchmakers.

Karin and Karl Scheufele (1963-1985): Thanks to his salesmanship skills and his passion for travel, Karl Scheufele III revived Chopard and transformed it into a truly international watch and jewellery brand. The new creations proved both playful and original, as well as of impeccable quality, bringing with them a genuinely innovative touch.

The Chopard look was nurtured by the company roots in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements. In 1972, Karl Scheufele III reinterpreted Art Nouveau in a series of plant life-themed watches, starting with Belle Epoque and following on with other nature-inspired collections such as Cascade, Happy Diamonds in 1976, Moonlight and Paradiso.

The Chopard style signature was as multi-facetted as the men and women it won over: deliberately round watches reflected the sensual curves and vivid colours of the 1970s; while broad cuff-watches in onyx, malachite, coral and turquoise combined daring shapes and beautiful gemstones. In 1972-74, women readily adopted the Jeans watch and its famous denim strap.Between 1970 and 1980, the jewellery industry equivalent of an “Oscar” was annually awarded by German professionals: the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden. Chopard won 15 trophies during this decade, including one for the Happy Diamonds jewellery watch in 1976.

In 1976, inspired by the Concorde, Karl Scheufele created the Concord watch in white gold set with onyx and diamonds. The model was distinguished by a Diamonds International Award – of which Karl Scheufele was to win three in all.

Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele(1985/90-2010):
During the 1990s, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele formed a new leadership tandem, just as their parents had done before them. Each reinterpreted the family tradition in their own way: Caroline reinvented the ancestral Pforzheim jewellery-making tradition by launching splendid Haute Joaillerie collections, while Karl-Friedrich did the same for watchmaking in Sonvilier by founding a fine watchmaking “Manufacture” in Fleurier 1996. The two complementary partners already shared the same office as they wrote a new chapter in the epic Chopard adventure.

Chopard - Milestones:
1836: May 4, birth of Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier, in the Swiss Jura.

1859: Birth of Paul-Louis, son of Louis-Ulysse Chopard

1860: 24 year-old Louis-Ulysse Chopard founds a high-precision watch manufacture specialising in pocket-watches and chronometers, in Sonvilier, Switzerland,
August 6, 1877: Birth of Karl Gotthilf Scheufele in Pforzheim, Germany.

1904: Founding of the “Karl Scheufele” brand specialising in jewellery watches distributed under the name Eszeha.

1912: Louis-Ulysse Chopard travels to Russia through Poland, Hungary and the Baltic States. Tsar Nicolas II becomes a client. Karl Scheufele I invents the clip-watch
1913: First ever advertising campaign for Chopard, referred to as “Fabrique de montres L.U.C L.-U- Chopard, maison fondée en 1860”.
1921: Paul-Louis Chopard, who has taken over the family firm, opens a subsidiary company in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
1925: Karl Scheufele I sends his son Karl Scheufele II to New York for two years with 50 dollars in his pocket.

1937: Chopard relocates to Geneva.
1930-1940: Chopard has around 150 employees making pocket-watches and precision wristwatches.
1942: Karl Scheufele II succeeds his father.
1943: Paul-André Chopard, son of Paul-Louis, takes over the Chopard company.
1958: Karl Scheufele III revives Eszeha after a tough period for the company.
1963: Paul-André Chopard sells Chopard to Karl Scheufele III.

1968: Paul-André Chopard dies on October 14.
1972: Launch of the Belle Epoque collection. Chopard wins the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden for the Améthyste watch.
1973: Chopard wins the Golden Rose of Baden-Bdaen for the Pasodoble watch.
1974: The company moves from the centre of Geneva to the new Meyrin-Geneva site.
1975: Creation of a first subsidiary company, “Chopard France”.

1976: Creation of the first Happy Diamonds watch. Chopard wins the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden for the Happy Diamonds and Cascade watches. Chopard wins the Diamond International Awards for the Concorde watch. Creation of the American subsidiary company: “Chopard Watch Corporation “.

1980: Launch of the first sports watch: St. Moritz.
1983: Launch of the Monte Carlo collection. Opening of the first Chopard boutique in Hong Kong.
1985: Launch of the Alta Moda collection for Chopard’s 125th anniversary.
1985: Creation of the Happy Diamonds Clown, the start of jewellery-making at Chopard. Karl-Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele are appointed vice-presidents of the Chopard group.
1986: Launch of the Gstaad collection.
1988: Start of the partnership between Chopard and the Mille Miglia, the legendary classic car rally in Italy. Chopard creates the 1000 Miglia sports watch collection.

1989: Opening of Chopard’s first European boutique, in Vienna.
1990: Launch of the Casmir collection.
1993: Launch of the Happy Sport collection.
1994: Launch of the La Strada and Impériale collections.

1996: The company returns to its roots and founds a watch manufacturing company in Fleurier, in the Swiss Jura, dedicated to the production of mechanical L.U.C movements. Creation of watches on behalf of the Geneva-based affiliate of José Carreras International Leukaemia Foundation, the Fondation José Carreas pour la Lutte contre la Leucémie.

1997: The first L.U.C 1860 watch, equipped with a L.U.C 1.96 movement, is voted “Watch of the Year” by the Swiss Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt magazine. Creation of the world’s most expensive watch at the time, Chopardissimo.

1998: Chopard becomes official partner of the Cannes Film Festival and Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele redesigns the Palme d’Or, from now on crafted in the Chopard workshops. Launch of La Vie en Rose collection.

1999: Launch of the Pushkin and Ice Cube collections. Partnership with the Prince’s Foundation founded by the Prince of Wales.

2000: Presentation of the world-first L.U.C Quattro watch, equipped with a L.U.C 1.98 movement featuring four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels, patented L.U.C Quattro® technology), endowing the watch with a 9-day power reserve.

2001: Launch of the L.U.C Tonneau model, equipped with the first tonneau-shaped self-winding movement (L.U.C 3.97), fitted with an off-centred micro-rotor. Creation of the Chopard Trophy at the Cannes Film Festival. Caroline and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele become co-presidents of Chopard.

2002: Presentation of a new jewellery concept with the launch of the Golden Diamonds collection. Chopard becomes official timekeeper of the prestigious Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, a classic car race held in Monte Carlo. Launch of the Elton John watch collection on behalf of the Elton John AIDS Foundation.

2003: Presentation of the first L.U.C Tourbillon model, a major technological accomplishment in the field of fine watchmaking. Launch of the new Happy Spirit collection. Creation of a line of Jacky Ickx watches.

2004: Presentation in Baselworld of the L.U.C. Regulator watch, which wins the “Watch of the Year” prize awarded by the Swiss magazine Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt.

2005: Presentation of the L.U.C Lunar One watch, driven by mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96 QP movement, featuring perpetual calendar and orbital moon-phase functions. Launch of the Haute Joaillerie Copacabana collection.

2006: Presentation of the L.U.C Chrono One watch, the first chronograph in the L.U.C collection equipped with Calibre 10CF, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture. Inauguration of the L.U.CEUM in Fleurier.

2007 : Launch of the Two O Ten watch collection. Inauguration of the new flagship boutique in New York, featuring the new interior design concept, and presentation of the eponymous collection 709 Madison. Introduction of the first Haute Joaillerie Red Carpet collection dedicated to the Cannes Film Festival. Founding of the Japanese subsidiary company, “Chopard Japan Ltd”.

2008 : Launch of the new Elton John chronograph collection in Moscow. “Best Training Company Prize” in the “Applied Arts” category awarded by the State of Geneva and honouring Chopard’s long-term commitment to the field of training and education. Creation of the Fleurier Ebauches SA company.

2009: Baselworld presentation of the L.UC Tourbillon Tech Twist watch equipped with a silicon escapement. Presentation of a high-frequency (10 Hertz) escapement developed by Chopard Technologies. Inauguration of a new flagship boutique in Singapore reflecting the new interior design concept.

2010: Celebration of Chopard’s 150th anniversary.Chopard unveils four new L.U.C Calibers.

Chopard & Classic Racing
Devotees of fine automobiles tend to have a weakness for beautiful timepieces, and vice versa. In both cases, sporting elegance and the quest for performance play a decisive role. Lifting the hood of a car provides an understanding of what is going on inside the engine, and the same goes for horological mechanisms that may be admired through a watch case-back. Today, true aficionados can be recognised by their choice of watch: a technical enthusiast will go for a complicate mechanical watch, while car-lovers will opt for a 1000 Miglia, a Jacky Ickx or a Grand Prix de Monaco Historique model.

Karl-Friedrich shares his father’s hobby. Together, they have built up a collection of remarkable cars, with the son showing a preference for pre-war and post-war English and German Cars (Bentley, Ferrari, Aston Martin, Porsche… and Mini Cooper); and the father for elegant post-war sports models. It was thus obvious that Chopard would become involved in the world of classic car racing. In addition to the Mille Miglia and the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, the brand’s commitment to Classic Racing goes back to the 1980s – and in fact even earlier, since Karl Scheufele’s grandfather was already fascinated by these finely tuned mechanisms. Historical highlights include Chopard’s participation in the Rallye des Alpes in 1993; and an unexpected race around Moscow’s Red Square in 1994

Rebirth of the “Manufacture”
Watch companies that develop and produce their own components and watches entirely in-house are a rarity. Convinced that the company should make its own watch movements in order to honour its horological past, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele persuaded his father – and the family council – that the future lay in mechanical watches. Karl Scheufele allowed his son to proceed with preparations, and the project was secretly launched in 1993.

In order to create an original calibre, Karl-Schuefele chose the most complex path: the movement was to be equipped with a micro-rotor to ensure maximum flexibility; automatic winding in both directions to enhance reliability; a substantial power reserve; and the possibility of integrating complications. It was also to feature original execution and aesthetics. The fledgling “Manufacture” was set up in the Val-de-Travers to ensure discretion, and work on Calibre ASP 94 began in 1993. However, having proved to be far too noisy and unsuited to the desired production strategy, it was subsequently abandoned. The final version of the new movement was presented at Christmas 2005 in the form of 20 prototypes of Calibre 1.96.

Operational testing on the new movement was conducted in Fleurier, where modest rented premises accommodated the ultra-modern production unit in 1996. As activities began to expand, the building was bought up and completely restored in 2000. From the initial dozen or so employees, the workforce in Fleurier has grown to 145 people. Over 45 million Swiss francs have been invested. In 2006, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, an avid timepiece collector, inaugurated the L.U.CEUM, where historical watches and clocks dating from 1500 to the present day rub shoulders with models from the Chopard L.U.C collection.

In keeping with its determination to achieve vertical integration, Chopard has created Fleurier Ebauches, an entity owned by the Chopard group and producing watch movements blanks in order to enhance verticalisation and increase its movement and component production.

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