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Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Breitling Navitimer 01 Limited : First Navitimer with a 100% in-house made chronograph movement

Breitling combines its two long-established passions - chronographs and aeronautics - by offering the legendary Navitimer model in a limited series equipped with its proprietary Caliber 01. Issued in 2,000-piece steel and 200-piece red gold editions, the "Navitimer Caliber 01" is distinguished by its slightly broader diameter and its transparent caseback providing clear views of its high-performance "motor". An eagerly anticipated model among devotees of the brand with the winged B, and a genuine collector's item for all connoisseurs of fine mechanical chronographs and aviation.
In 2009, Breitling laid a major milestone in its history by joining the exclusive circle of the rare watch companies to have their own mechanical chronograph movement. This was a logical culminating point for a brand that is one of the leaders in this complication and has played a crucial role in its technical development through several key inventions: the first independent pushpiece (1915); separation of the stop/start and reset functions (1923); creation of the second independent pushpiece for zero-resetting (1934); and the launch of the very first selfwinding chronograph (1969).

Caliber 01, the first movement entirely developed and produced in the Breitling workshops, was first used to power an exclusive new version of the leading Chronomat model, duly named Chronomat 01. Breitling now introduces it within another watchmaking icon, the famous Navitimer which proudly embodies the brand’s aeronautical vocation.

Breitling Caliber 01
A high-performance movement assembled in a revolutionary manner : Featuring an original architecture, the selfwinding Caliber 01 chronograph movement is the crowning achievement of the longstanding quest for precision and reliability that has consistently governed Breitling “Instruments for professionals”. Equipped with a column wheel, a vertical coupling clutch and an over 70-hour power reserve, it was designed to ensure maximum functionality and secure use. It features several innovative characteristics aimed at facilitating its production and its operation, including a patented self-centering device for the resetting hammers and an exclusive index-assembly system enabling swift personalized adjustment of the watch according to the wearer. This exceptional caliber is also distinguished by its pioneering production and assembly mode. Inspired by an avant-garde concept used in other cutting-edge sectors, Breitling has developed an industrial chain-production formula that revolutionizes traditional movement assembly.
Each caliber is individually monitored by an ultra-sophisticated computer program that automatically directs it towards the appropriate workstation, along a route alternating fully automated workstations with others requiring manual intervention. All the adjustment phases are integrated within this process, in such a way that upon emerging from the chain, each Caliber 01 is ready to face up to the stringent tests conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – a guarantee of authentic large-scale production reliability.

Navitimer
The cult watch of pilots and aviation enthusiasts: By immediately choosing to specialize in chronographs and timers, Léon Breitling, who founded the company in 1884, soon gained favor among aviation pioneers who needed sturdy, high-performance instruments. During the 1930s, the brand launched its first onboard chronographs, which were to equip World War II fighter planes, before accompanying the boom in air transport in the cockpits of the finest propeller planes, and later jets.

In 1952, the "official supplier to world aviation” created a “wrist instrument” specially designed for pilots and other aeronautical professionals. Equipped with a circular slide rule, the Navitimer chronograph serves to handle all calculations linked to airborne navigation: average speed, distance covered, fuel consumption, rate of climb or descent, conversions from miles to kilometers or nautical miles, etc.
Chosen as the official watch by the AOPA Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association), the world’s largest association of its kind, the Navitimer has asserted itself as the most iconic Breitling model – and a cult object for all aviation enthusiasts. In its “Cosmonaute” version with a 24-hour graduation, it accompanied Scott Carpenter on his orbital flight aboard the Aurora 7 capsule (1962), thus becoming the first spacegoing wrist chronograph.

Continuously made since 1952, the Navitimer is the world’s oldest mechanical chronograph still in production. By now adopting an “in-house” caliber, it is writing a new chapter in a rich history of major achievements and thrilling moments.

Navitimer Caliber 01 Special Edition
The Navitimer Caliber 01 special edition is available in two limited series of 2,000 in steel, and 200 in red gold, each bearing an individual number engraved on the side of the case middle. The case features a diameter slightly broader than that of the series-produced Navitimer (43 mm compared with 42 mm).
The dial which is made using the “épargne” process on a solid silver or gold base – a sophisticated technique endowing the indications with peerless radiance and readability – is exclusively available in a classic black version with applied hour-markers. Breitling’s winged symbol in gold is slightly raised to stand out from the watch face.
The transparent sapphire caseback, a rare feature on Breitling models, provides a unique opportunity to admire the original architecture of Caliber 01 with its column wheel, its oscillating weight and its entirely performance-oriented design.
An impressive set of characteristics that are bound to delight devotees of exclusive models – before the series-produced Navitimer models equipped with 100% Breitling calibers take flight next spring.
Technical details
Movement
Breitling Caliber 01, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, self-winding
High-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour)
47 jewels
1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Calendar

Case
Limited series in steel or in 18K red gold
Resistance to 3 bars
Rotating bezel with circular slide rule
Cambered sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Diameter: 43 mm

Dial

Black

Straps/Bracelets
Barenia leather, crocodile leather/Navitimer (steel version only), Air Racer

ARCHIMEDE DeckWatch with Black Dial

The ARCHIMEDE DeckWatch with the silver dial has been an instant hit: it's classic design appealing to customers from all over the world. Building on this success, ARCHIMEDE announces a black dialled version.

The design of the DeckWatch is based on early watches used by naval officers: known for their clarity and accuracy they were developed for use in navigation at sea.
This elegant design is now available with a black dial and white luminous hands. The other features are the same: 42mm stainless steel case; sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides; mineral crystal display back all encasing the renowned ETA 6498 hand-wound movement. The crown is signed with the ARCHIMEDE "A". Leather straps are available in either brown or black as well as a steel bracelet.

The DeckWatch is available directly from ARCHIMEDE for US customers www.archimede-watches.com/US/DeckWatch.htm for US$ 635 (including shipping and all US duties) and for International customers www.archimede-watches.com/EN/DeckWatch.htm for Eur 425 plus shipping costs

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT

Christopher Ward, the luxury online watchmaker, has joined brands such as Omega and Longines in paying homage to one of the most iconic watches of the last 60 years – the Rolex GMT Master, launched in 1954. Rolex created the watch at the request of Pan Am Airways to help its pilots when they were crossing multiple time zones.

The C60 Trident GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) is Christopher Ward’s first dual time automatic watch and represents another milestone for the brand. Pilots, frequent travellers and anyone else who regularly needs to know the time in another part of the world can check two time-zones simultaneously thanks to an extra hour hand. Better still, Christopher Ward has added an anodised aluminium uni-directional bezel, which allows the wearer to check the time in a third time-zone, too.

The C60 Trident is water resistant to a depth of 300m and comes with a hand-crafted crocodile pattern leather strap, complete with a deployment clasp. Christopher Ward’s legendary attention to detail is exemplified by the trident design on the second hand counter balance and a Cote de Geneve engraving on the rotor. The watch has blue screws and is powered by a specially customised ETA 2893-2 movement.

Suggested retail price:
C60 Trident GMT SKKO: £450
C60 Trident GMT SKS: £490

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (2007)

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II regatta chronograph spells uncompromising adventure. Inspired by the winds of change, this model sets new sights in the art of watchmaking.

Intended for experienced skippers as well as yachting enthusiasts, this regatta chronograph is born of the longstanding relationship that Rolex enjoys with the sea, sailing and the mysteries of the deep. It perpetuates the supremacy of the Oyster, designed to resist water and conquer the elements. Featuring an unprecedented horological complication, the Yacht-Master II and its programmable countdown memory signal a new generation that draws on a wellspring of know-how and innovation.The Yacht-Master II is much more than the culmination of Rolex technology or that indispensable instrument at the starting line of a regatta. It is a moment of pure pleasure to be savoured both on land and at sea.

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II regatta chronograph is the first watch to have a programmable countdown feature with a mechanical memory, which gives it the advantage of being able to be set according to the countdown time of each regatta. Intended for lovers of yachting as well as for experienced skippers, it is an indispensable tool at the starting line of regattas.

With the Yacht-Master II, it is possible to program a countdown of 0 to 10 minutes. During the starting sequences, it can be synchronised to the official countdown. This horological complication is heir to all of Rolex’s watchmaking know-how and benefits from the vertical integration carried out by the company over the last 10 years. A unique interaction between the movement, the case and the bezel makes the Yacht-Master II a completely new creation, a new generation watch. The various functions of this new Oyster professional are designed to be executed easily using only one hand.
THE MOVEMENT
The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a new movement, the 4160 calibre, consisting of 360 components, entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. The heart of the movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Its blue PARACHROM® hairspring with a Breguet overcoil is up to 10 times more resistant to shocks and insensitive to magnetic fields. This Rolex innovation endows the watch with excellent chronometric performance certified by COSC (Contrôle officiel suisse des Chronomètres – Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).

The countdown mechanism is constructed using a column wheel and a vertical clutch. The choice of this exclusive architecture is clearly characteristic of the Rolex new-generation chronograph movements. Rolex engineers and watchmakers achieved an impressive technical feat by developing a new mechanical programmable countdown function. A mechanical memory system makes it possible for the wearer to program, in advance and permanently (unless it is intentionally modified) the countdown time for the start of a regatta. The watch can be used in regattas with various starting sequences. Fully automatic, equipped with a Perpetual rotor, the Yacht-Master II movement has a power reserve of 72 hours.

THE CASE
Crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow or white gold*, the Yacht-Master II case has diameter of 42.6 mm. Equipped with a Triplock winding crown protected by shoulders, it has two pushers, one on either side of the winding crown. The start/stop pusher located at the two o’clock position starts and stops the countdown. The reset pusher located at the four o’clock position has three functions: programming, synchronising and setting the countdown. The innovation involves the interaction between the case and the movement, thanks to the Ring Command bezel, which is used for programming the duration of the countdown. The Yacht-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres.

THE RING COMMAND BEZEL
The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a Ring Command bezel designed and developed by Rolex. Rotatable 90°, this innovation allows access to the programming function of the countdown, then to the locking of this programming. Although it is very complex from a watchmaking point of view, this interaction between the bezel and the movement makes the Yacht-Master II extremely easy to use.

The Ring Command bezel is available in two versions :
– with a blue ceramic disc having numerals engraved in yellow gold for the 18 ct yellow gold version* ;
– in one-piece platinum with raised numerals for the 18 ct white gold version*.
THE DIAL
The hour and minute hands are fixed in the centre of the Yacht-Master II, while the seconds hand is at the six o’clock position. The countdown counter located between eight o’clock and four o’clock positions and the countdown seconds hand (red hand in the centre) show the time remaining before the start of the regatta. Particular attention was paid to its legibility so that it can be easily read at a glance.

THE BRACELET
The Yacht-Master II features an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp and an Easylink comfort extension link.

FUNCTIONS
The functioning of the Yacht-Master II is very simple. With one hand, the user can rapidly programme the countdown. Likewise, he can start, stop, set or synchronise it, while it is in progress, to the official countdown with a simple press of a pusher.

1. TIMING THE START OF A REGATTA:  Press the start/stop pusher to start the countdown. At the end of the countdown, the minute hand stops by itself at 0. The seconds hand continues to turn.

2. SYNCHRONISATION OF THE COUNTDOWN (IF NECESSARY): At the time of the official signal, sound or visual : Press the reset pusher briefly and firmly. The minute countdown hand repositions itself to the nearest minute, while the seconds countdown
hand returns to 0. When the reset pusher is released, the minute countdown hand and the seconds countdown hand are automatically activated.

3. STOPPING THE COUNTDOWN: Press the start/stop pusher.

4. SETTING THE COUNTDOWN: Make certain that the countdown is stopped. Press the reset pusher. The minute countdown hand returns to the minute programmed at the last setting and the seconds countdown hand returns to 0. The countdown is ready to be started.

5. PROGRAMMING THE COUNTDOWN: First, make certain that the countdown is stopped. Turn the bezel 90° counterclockwise. The inscription Yacht-Master II should be aligned with the winding crown. This locks the start/stop pusher.

Press the reset pusher. You will hear a click. The pusher remains depressed. Unscrew the winding crown to position 1, without pulling on the stem. (The same as for manual winding) Position the hand at the desired minute by turning the winding crown in the winding direction. The minute countdown hand moves from 0 to 10 minutes by increments of one minute. At 10 minutes, if the user continues to turn the crown, the hand returns to 0.

Return the bezel to its initial position by rotating it 90° clockwise. You will hear a click. This returns the reset pusher to its initial position and unlocks the start/stop pusher.

Push down and screw down the winding crown. The countdown is ready to be activated according to the time programmed.

Breitling Blackbird Red Strike Limited Edition

Fitted with the famous black dial that inspired its name, the Blackbird cleverly combines readability with originality. It radiates a distinctive personality for people who love powerful designs. Breitling is now offering it in a new limited edition featuring vivid red accents that accentuate the technical and sporting nature of this exceptional model which brings a complete instrument panel to the wrist.
The totalizer rims, the chronograph central seconds hand and the tachometric scale on the inner bezel are all red, as is the outsized calendar display at 12 o’clock with two separate indicators for the tens and units.
To highlight this daringly modern dial, Breitling has treated the Blackbird Red Strike Limited Edition to a full-polished or satin-brushed finish encompassing the case, the rotating bezel with its 360° graduated scale, and even the “Blackbird special” Pilot bracelet with its faceted profile.

Water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 ft), this chronograph endowed with a steely character is powered by Breitling Caliber 44, a selfwinding chronograph movement that is chronometer-certified like all the brand’s movements. It is issued in a 2,000-piece worldwide limited edition.

Technical details
Movement 
Breitling Caliber 44, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, self-winding
High-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour)
38 jewels
1/4thof a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Calendar

Case 
Polished or satin-brushed steel
Water-resistant to 300 m (1,000 ft/30 bars)
Screw-locked crown and push-pieces
Cambered sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Ratcheted bidirectional Rotating bezel
Screwed in caseback
Diameter 43.70 mm

Dial
Black with red indications

Bracelet 
Polished or satin-brushed steel Pilot

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in 18ct yellow gold on a leopard-skin style strap

A legendary classic of watchmaking undergoes a startling transformation thanks to an exotic flight of fancy. This Cosmograph Daytona shows no restraint at all.
Feline and sensuous, the Daytona leopard model is set with diamonds and yellow sapphires, spiriting us away to new adventures. For the woman who knows how to blend elegance with extravagance, the most demanding taste with the most unusual, nothing could be more daring.

The Cosmograph Daytona in 18ct yellow gold on a leopard-skin style strap. Leopard-skin motif on the dial, set with 8 diamond indices. Bezel set with 36 yellow baguette sapphires and diamond end pieces.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Graham-London Chronofighter Oversize Diver Turbo Tech & Chronofighter Oversize Diver Deep Black

Graham-London Chronofighter Oversize Diver Turbo Tech & Chronofighter Oversize Diver Deep Black are specially designed for serious divers. When  a diver descend below 250 feet under ocean he enters the so-called twilight zone where the light becomes faint. Here, bioluminescent creatures live and do their stuff, along with many other weird and wonderful creatures too. For any serious diver this is a great place to explore, and that is why GRAHAM has designed a professional watch especially for these depths. So here is the Chronofighter Oversize Diver’s watch, with its sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating, which will help you track time in this amazing environment. The watch is 47 mm in diameter, resistant to 1000 feet / 330 metres and designed around the needs of the professional diver.

The professional diver usually requires a built-in helium escape valve, which allows for a prolonged deep water trip. Needless to say this features on the Chronofighter too. When coming up from the depths after days in a diving chamber breathing Trimix or Heliox (a special divers gas for deep water work), this valve will equalise the pressure difference between the trapped gases inside the case and the surface.

Helium, as you may know, is the world’s second smallest molecule, it will inevitably find its way into your watch if you spend some time in a diving chamber. The solution to this is to include a pressure release valve integrated into the 2 o’clock part of the case. But pressure isn’t the only consideration behind the design of this watch.
The Super-LumiNova coating on the dial and hands will also help you read time in the dark, as clearly as you can see a firefly squid. Even with diver gloves on, the use of the trigger to activate the stop watch is dead easy and intuitive. The same goes for the unidirectional rotating bezel for measuring dive and decompression time.

Other features include: Calibre G1734, self-winding bi-compax chronograph, 27 jewels, 28’800 A/h (4Hz), 48 hours power reserve, and on integrated hypoallergenic black rubber strap. By the way, if you are not a professional diver and you use your watch in water no deeper than your bath tub, that’s also fine.

You might want to consider the Chronofighter Oversize Diver Deep Black. Of course waterproof to the same depth and with exactly the same features, it uses grey Super LumiNova on the dial. Elegant and with a nod to fashion, it still is the same professional divers’ watch. Whichever watch you choose, it should make as big a splash when you go out to dinner, as when you tilt backwards and begin a deep water dive into the deep.

Technical features
Functions
Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter)
Date at 7 o’clock
Helium escape valve
Hours, minutes, seconds from the centre
- Central chronograph second hand
- 30 minutes counter at 9 o’clock
- 60 seconds counter at 3 o’clock
Left-hand side fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher

Movement
Calibre G1734, automatic bi-compax chronograph
Frequency: 28’800 A/h (4 Hz)
Incabloc shock absorber
27 jewels
Power reserve: 48 hours

Case
Steel (2OVEV.B15A) / Steel with black PVD (2OVEB.B38A)
Diameter: 47 mm
Thickness: 17 mm
Steel with black PVD left-hand fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher with “Clous de Paris” high grip pattern
Steel with black PVD bezel, rotating rim to measure decompression time
Steel (2OVEV.B15A) / Steel with black PVD (2OVEB.B38A) case back with steel Royal Marine crown-symbol secured by 8 screws
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Water resistance: 1000 feet / 330 metres

Dial
Black dial with yellow contour, black minutes counter with silver ring, black and yellow seconds counter with silver ring (2OVEV.B15A)
Black dial and counters (2OVEB.B38A)

Hands
(2OVEV.B15A): White Super-LumiNova hours, minutes, chronograph seconds hands and indexes. Minutes hand with orange contour, Silver minutes counter hand with Super-LumiNova tip,Black seconds hand with red tip, Silver with white Super-LumiNova chronograph second hand with red tip
(2OVEB.B38A): Black nickel hours, minutes hands and indexes with grey Super-LumiNova.Black minutes counter hand, Black seconds hand with red tip, Black skeleton chronograph seconds hands with red tip

Strap
Integrated black rubber
Buckle: Pin buckle

References
2OVEV.B15A (Chronofighter Oversize Diver Turbo Tech)
2OVEB.B38A (Chronofighter Oversize Diver Deep Black)

Public price:
Chronofighter Oversize Diver Turbo Tech: 9’300 CHF (2OVEV.B15A)
Chronofighter Oversize Diver Deep Black:10’500 CHF (2OVEB.B38A)

Friday, September 3, 2010

SINN 900 PILOT S : The large pilot chronograph

Black signifies objectivity and functionality — both of which are inherent in the design of the 900 PILOT S pilot watch by Sinn. But there is a further connection to the colour black: the S in the model name stands for “Schwarz” (black) — signifying the Black Hard Coating of the watch.

There is an overriding SINN priority behind this — the suitability of each watch for everyday use. To achieve this Sinn has additionally hardened the satinised stainless steel case using TEGIMENT Technology. The hardening also provides the base to which the high-grade, black PVD coating can be applied. This combined process results in a highly practical benefit: by applying a coating with a hardness of 2,000 HV (Vickers hardness) to the hardened steel (1,500 HV), prevents the otherwise common problem of cracking paint.
The pilot watch’s other technical features also fulfil the most exacting demands in terms of precision and functionality. The black galvanised dial and the case diameter of 44 mm ensure perfect readability, for instance. Crucial features for professional use include magnetic field protection up to 80,000 A/m, the interior pilot’s bezel and the second 24-hour time zone which can easily be set using the knurled crown at 10 o’clock.

Technical details
-Case diameter 44 mm)
-Case made of stainless steel
-Nickel-free case back
-Case made with Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENT Technology basis
-Ar-Dehumidifying Technology for enhanced freedom from fogging
-Magnetic Field Protection up to 80.000 A /m
-Integrated pilot‘s bezel
-Second time zone on a 24-hour basis
-Sapphire crystal glass
-Five conversion scales for European and American units
-Pressure-resistant to 20 bar (= 200 m water depth)
-Low pressure resistant