Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Pequignet Calibre Royal

Calibre Royal is a new generation and state of the art Calibre fully designed, prototyped, tested and assembled in Pequignet’s Haute Horlogerie laboratory in Morteau, in the heart of the French Jura watchmaking country. The Large Date and Day - Power Reserve Indicator configuration comprises 298 parts. 250 design plans were drawn up in the Pequignet laboratory.

All complications - Large Date and Day, Power Reserve Indicator, Moon Phase and future complications - are and will be built into the original main plate. This incorporation ensures stability, reliability and harmony in a multiple complication calibre. Multiple complications built into a 13 ¾ calibre with a height of just 5.88 mm, thereby making for a highly elegant multiple complication watch. High degree of openworking over the entire regulating part, Large Balance, Pallet fork and Pallet wheel. Observable winding system and power reserve differential. Large Barrel, Oscillating Weight and Large Balance aligned on central axis of movement. The Escapement, Barrel and automatic system enable independent and separate After-Sales servicing on each of the 3 parts. Large mono-block tungsten carbide weight, offset to allow balance visibility, circulating on a peripheral runner.
Large Barrel
A single Large Barrel provides 100-hour power reserve design, with a guaranteed run time of 88 hours, with an exceptional 72-hour display isochronism. In an exceptional feature, the spring is wound by the barrel drum, while the initial force is distributed by a central barrel axis inserted between 2 jewels and not joined with the aforesaid barrel. This original distribution system provides perfect linearity and regularity of the movement driving force. The overall isochronism is exceptional, the amplitude is set to 220° in vertical position after 72 hours’ operation of the power reserve.

Crown winding system
An original system combining shaped memory spring and reverser; an all-new system, by means of the winding stem alone, ensures remarkable reliability and accuracy of the winding & time setting functions and other corrections. Unique manual winding system declutching when the oscillating weight is in motion. Despite the presence of an automatic winding system, the Breguet teeth make for a pleasant sensation when turning the winding stem backward.

Automatic winding system
Dual direction winding. Original system based on the principle of reversers, reduced number of parts and improved general efficiency through reduction of normally encountered friction. Bearing with large balls and in-house design.

A large 4-arm diamond-polished balance, with high inertia, ensures accuracy and regularity. This large balance also provides resistance to impacts, interference, and single or simultaneous activation of one or more complications. Central protection via Incabloc damper system. The laboratory opted for a highly specialised frequency of 21 600 oscillations/hour (3 Hz) to ensure regulating part reliability and service life. These technical reliability characteristics make for longer intervals between After-Sales overhauls and servicing. Adjustment via compensating screws with in-house stud holder, including a lock strip providing impact resistance. Balance crossover bridge providing positioning stability and impact resistance. Also available in Breguet hairspring version.

Power Reserve
The power reserve system also contributes to the reliability objective, by reducing the number of parts and through the absence of a friction spring system or other random system. This unique system offers simplification and reliability.

Large Date and Day
Double Large Date and Day windows, with no amplitude loss upon activation. This all-new system, unique worldwide, makes for accuracy, reliability and easy correction operations.

Technical details
21 600 oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Mechanism service life, oil durability, adhesion of lubricants.
«100-hour design» Large Barrel, set to 88 hours.
Initial force distribution by a large central barrel axis, independent of the Large Barrel, and inserted between 2 jewels.
Linearity and stability of initial force.
Exceptional isochronism range guaranteed for 72 hours, with dial display.
Amplitude set to 220° in vertical position after 72-hour operation.
High inertia large balance with compensating screws, with stud holder clamp to safeguard the rate against impacts.
The crossover bridge ensures robustness, stability and positioning precision, as well as impact resistance.
Also available in Breguet hairspring version.

Baume & Mercier Classima Automatic Red Gold Dual time & Power Reserve

The Classima 2011 collection will be featuring a superb Red Gold Dual time & Power Reserve watch. This model is distinguished by its 39 mm case made from 18-carat red gold that gives it a touch of warmth and sophistication. It is equipped with a self-winding Soprod 9035 movement adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” motif.

The elegant black dial features a straight-line guilloché pattern and gilt hour-markers, complemented by an alligator leather strap in the same shade. The dual time-zone and power-reserve functions, along with the case-back providing a view of the personalized oscillating weight bearing the brand’s PHI symbol, will delight devotees of fine watches. To be launched in Fall 2011.
Technical details
Ref 10040
  • Movement: Automatic (Soprod 9035), movement adorned with “Côtes de Genève” décor
  • Functions: Dual Time, Power reserve, Date at 3 o’clock
  • Case: 39 mm Red gold, sapphire crystal window case back
  • Strap: Black alligator
  • Buckle: Pin buckle
  • Dial : Black, guilloché décor, appliqué indexes & roman numerals
  • Water resistance: 30 m
  • Gold weight: 22.8 gr (18 ct)

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Baume & Mercier Classima Automatic Jumping Hour Limited Edition

Since its introduction in 2005, the Classima collection by Baume & Mercier offers a unique combination of classical and modern elements. It is a best-seller of Baume & Mercier watch brand and became a true favorite among executives all over the world. Classima, by nature, is at home in any circumstances, thus empowering its wearer to move smoothly from the rigorous discipline of the city to the serenity of a relaxed environment. Firmly rooted in tradition, it is a sign of inner wealth that is made to be shared without ostentation. This new Classima model confirms the spirit of this collection,embodying timelessly chic and discreet masculinity.

The new 42 mm size Classima 2011 model with its refined design is driven by an automatic Dubois Depraz 14400 movement adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” motif. Its attractive jumping-hour function is complemented by its silvered “barleycorn” guilloché dial graced with black numerals, and a sapphire crystal case-back revealing the personalized oscillating weight bearing the brand’s PHI symbol. Limited & numbered edition of 500.To be launched in Fall 2011.
Technical details
Ref 10039
  • Movement: Automatic (Dubois Depraz 14400), movement adorned with “Côtes de Genève” décor
  • Functions: Jumping hour
  • Case: 42 mm Steel, sapphire crystal case back
  • Strap: Black alligator, Adjustable triple folding
  • Dial : Silvered, “Grain d’orge” guilloché décor, black arabic numerals, riveted dots and indexes
  • Water resistance : 30 m
  • Limited & Numbered edition: 500 units

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art – Chagall & L’Opéra de Paris Collection “Tribute to Famous Composers”

Swiss watch Manufacture Vacheron Constantin presents a new timepiece collection, Métiers d’Art – Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris: Exceptional one-of-a-kind creations dedicated to the Garnier Opera House, Paris .

When it became a patron of the Paris National Opera in 2007, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin highlighted one of the values it has sought to perpetuate for over 250 years: the hand-made traditions of fine watchmaking Métiers d’Art, or artistic crafts. This partnership uniting time, art and culture, is distinguished by a masterful demonstration of the expertise cultivated by the oldest watch manufacturer, having enjoyed uninterrupted activity since its founding in 1755.

Vacheron Constantin now creates an exceptional collection of 15 one-of-a-kind models in tribute to the greatest composers, the same artists who inspired Marc Chagall for his monumental fresco painting adorning the ceiling of the Garnier Opera House. The first watch in the Métiers d’Art – Chagall & L’Opéra de Paris collection is entitled “Tribute to famous composers”. This one-of-a-kind creation was presented at the gala evening held in the Palais Garnier on November 20th 2010 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Association pour le Rayonnement de l’Opéra National de Paris (AROP), the Friends of the Paris Opera & Ballet. The timepiece features a faithful reproduction of the entire Chagall ceiling, using the time-honoured Geneva technique of grand feu enamelled miniature painting.

This unique timepiece boasts a reproduction of remarkable detail and quality of the famous ceiling of the Opera painted by renowned artist Marc Chagall. This remarkable watch was realized using a traditional Genevan technique known as « Grand Feu », characterized by miniature painting on enamel, this meticulous process is specific to the Swiss city and passed down from generation to generation by masters of this art. After a global presentation of this unique watch, it will join the private collection of the Vacheron Constantin Maison.
The 14 other watches will be created over the next two years, and each will be dedicated to one of the composers appearing in Chagall’s monumental work.

Time, culture and art
This delightful trilogy interweaves past, present and future in a manner that etches these works into eternity. It embodies perfect, vibrant and creative symbiosis that has consistently nurtured the Vacheron Constantin philosophy; a perpetual technical and aesthetic exploration that the House continues to cultivate through expertise built up and passed on from generation to generation, and a breed of creativity firmly focused on innovation.

In this respect, a Vacheron Constantin watch is far more than merely an instrument to read off and measure time. It is a mirror of culture and history, a work of art stemming from a wealth of human encounters such as that between Jean-Marc Vacheron and his apprentice in 1755; between the founder’s grandson and François Constantin in 1819; and, down through the ages, those of all the passionate dedicated artists, watchmaking craftsmen, enamellers, gem-setters and engraving who are the enduring lifeblood of the Manufacture.

Such a philosophy was bound to nurture natural affinities between Vacheron Constantin and the world of the arts. Music, opera and ballet are all fields in which human beings, their talent and their personality set the finishing touch to the beauty of the original work. As a patron of the Paris National Opera for the past four years, the watch manufacturer shares with this institution the art of precision, of constant renewal and of wonderment. An art in which technical and aesthetic mastery is orchestrated by a variety of professions. In both watchmaking and opera, the final accomplishment is a quintessentially human story imbued with numerous faithfully perpetuated and shared expressions of expertise. Time has no hold over these crafts in which high demands and noble challenges are crystallised by a tireless pursuit of excellence, audacity and passion.

Marc Chagall and the Garnier Opera House
It was undoubtedly passion that led Marc Chagall to take up the challenge put to him in 1964 by André Malraux, who was serving at the time as French Minister for Cultural Affairs: namely to paint a new ceiling for the Garnier Opera House. The artist received this unexpected proposal after a performance of Daphnis et Chloé, a ballet for which he had created the stage-setting. This wildly audacious project sparked a good deal of debate and opposition, especially from critics who feared a breach of stylistic unity between the concert hall itself, designed by Charles Garnier, and a ceiling created by a contemporary artist… It undoubtedly took a truly visionary spirit to give shape to this idea, and a distinct touch of boldness to dare to take on an artistic monument dating from the Second Empire.

Chagall’s work transformed the ceiling of the Opera House into a vast poetic sky whirling with opera heroes, brilliant musicians, entwined lovers and legendary characters. Concealing the original ceiling painted by Jules Eugène Lenepveu, Chagall’s rich palette with its intense shades and subtle harmonies is deployed over a full 200 square metres, forming an enchantingly luminous flower lit up by the neo-academic gold and purple hues from the era of Napoleon III. Five coloured petals with respective dominant blue, red, yellow, white and green colours each depict two famous musicians surrounded by some of the works they created. The blue one features Moussorgski and Mozart, along with Boris Goudonov and The Magic Flute; the yellow depicts Tchaikovsky and Adam, with Swan Lake and Giselle; Stravinsky and Ravel shine in red with The Firebird and Daphnis et Chloé; green lends a fresh touch to Berlioz and Wagner and the love stories of Romeo and Juliet and Tristan and Isolde; while white with a touch of yellow exalts Rameau and Débussy, along with the latter’s Pelleas and Mélisande. The works of Beethoven, Gluck, Bizet and Verdi are represented in the circle of the dome surrounding the central chandelier. Dotted here and there are some of the most famous Parisian landmarks: the Eiffel Tower, the Arc of Triumph, the Place de la Concorde with its obelisk, and of course the Garnier Opera House itself.

The modern, sparkling and vibrant work by Chagall, which he defined as “the colourful mirror of silk dresses and jewellery lighting up the shoulders of the most beautiful women in Paris” achieves a powerful and subtle musicality in which colours set the tone. The artist, an acknowledged master in the field, played on a basically simple orchestration with five dominant themes. Nonetheless, each of them also carries hints of the four others, exactly like in a musical composition featuring echoed and interwoven tones and themes. The exquisite chromatic and almost symphonic equilibrium of the ceiling creates perfect harmony at the heart of a jewel case imbued with history, splendour and symbolism. The magic weaves its spell and proves that art excels in marrying past, present and future, just as Vacheron Constantin loves to do in each of its creations.

Métier d’Art – Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers”
The Métiers d’Art - Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris collection is composed of 15 one-of-a-kind timepieces: a masterwork entitled “Tribute to Famous Composers” and reproducing every last detail of the Garnier Opera House ceiling painted by Marc Chagall; and 14 models each highlighting a composer and one of his works. These unique miniature masterpieces embody the art of grand feu enamel painting, based on the centuries-old Geneva technique that has remained the exclusive preserve of a handful of artisans.

The yellow gold case frames a 31.50 mm-diameter dial bearing a work that is actually spread over 200 square metres – an amazing feat in itself. Three gold hands sweep tirelessly over the painting, pointing in turn to works by Ravel, Debussy and the 12 other composers. Around the circumference, an array of different nymphs have been hand-engraved on the same level as the enamelled dial, creating an amazing depth effect that is further accentuated by the light reflected there. These majestic embodiments of the hours are reproduced after the Second Empire gildings of the Palais Garnier, while the gold-rimmed dial centre echoes that of the ceiling.
The understated and finely polished 40 mm-diameter case sets off to perfection the refinement of the enamelled miniature. Entirely hand-crafted with a blend of patience, meticulous care and concentration, this painting is a worthy heir to the spirit of the Cabinotiers cherished by the founders of Vacheron Constantin, and also embodied in the “officer” style case-back which opens to reveal an engraving created by the Manufacture in tribute to Marc Chagall.

The heart of the timepiece beats to the regular cadence of the Calibre 2460 self-winding movement entirely developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. Such a stunning work of art naturally deserved a perfect mechanism: in addition to extreme reliability, it also bears the famous Hallmark of Geneva testifying to the perfect execution of the exceptional finishing crafted in keeping with the finest Geneva Haute Horlogerie traditions.
The miniature “Grand Feu” enamelled Geneva technique miniature painting
Having first emerged on the shores of the Mediterranean, enamelling has been used ever since Antiquity to embellish gold ornaments and jewellery. It was adopted by horologers in the 15th Century to adorn their creations and subsequently earned its true pedigree in Geneva, as the city’s artisans refined their techniques, invented new methods and constantly improved this art which came to be expressed in four main ways: champlevé, flinqué, cloisonné and miniature enamelling.

The Métiers d’Art – Chagall & L’Opéra de Paris collection focuses on the art of grand feu enamel painting, one of the oldest and most remarkable craftsmanship traditions of Haute Horlogerie. The grand feu enamels used in the Geneva technique reach their point of fusion at an extremely high temperature, between 800°C and 900°C, thus endowing them with exceptional purity and longevity.

This Métier d’Art, or artistic craft, which was adopted and cultivated by Vacheron Constantin at an early stage in its development, is so rare that only a handful of artisans around the world can claim to have mastered its secrets. This art calls for rigorous and constant discipline that is a fundamental prerequisite in exercising one of the most demanding of all crafts, calling for a degree of concentration and patience perhaps comparable only to the work of the medieval illuminators who toiled over ancient manuscripts.

The Geneva technique of miniature enamelling with a protective flux coating is undoubtedly that which requires the greatest expertise from the master enameller. On a dial measuring 1 mm thick and 31.50 mm in diameter, the artist who crafted the dial of this model began by applying a white base enamel that is extremely hard because of its high fusion point. This dial undergoes a first firing at a temperature of around 900°C in order to be able to withstand the many subsequent firings in the furnace.

On this white enamel base serving as a “background canvas”, the artist starts by tracing the outlines of the various motifs with a brush consisting of two or three marten’s hairs. Using a strong binocular magnifying instrument, he recreates the atmosphere and the emotional vibrations of the work to be reproduced in miniature. This involves a few touches of colour on the chosen shade, placed in successive points in an extremely precise order, moving throughout the entire process from the softer shades to the purer, brighter ones. The extremely fine powders and pigments used for miniature enamel paintings are blended with oils such as lily flower oil, to make them easier to apply.

After around twenty firings in the oven at temperatures of between 800 and 850 degrees Celsius, the work begins to take on its final appearance. During these various stages, the colours are vitrified by the heat and progressively change, become more intense and retract. The enameller’s experience plays an essential and determining role. The furnace firing times must be carefully calculated according to the type and the quantity of matter applied, and their exact duration is part of the workshop secrets carefully preserved by the artist. The path leading to the final touch is strewn with all manner of pitfalls, and the fragile and sometimes refractory enamel is liable to “explode” each time it is removed from the furnace. The cooling stages thus require a great deal of patience to avoid sudden changes of temperature. A single wrong move can cause irreversible damage and force the artisan to begin all over again.

When the miniature enamelled painting has been completed and fired for the last time, it is generally coated with two or three layers of a finishing flux consisting of a transparent enamel serving to protect the work from the potential effects of ageing. Following the final firing of this flux (at 800°C), a fine polish with an abrasive stone is performed, followed by the final polishing operation after the last vitrification in order to achieve the full radiance and pictorial splendour of the work.

Vacheron Constantin is one of the rare watch companies to create such sophisticated enamelled dials. A discipline involving a sense of detail, rigorous care and infinite patience, enamelling is above all a daunting artistic challenge taken up by virtuoso artisans. In its role as guardian of the oldest and most precious traditional Geneva watchmaking skills, the Manufacture is determined to perpetuate such artistic crafts, driven by the firm conviction that they represent a truly priceless treasure.

LIMES Chyros Automatic

German watch brand LIMES introduces a superb new model, The Chyros, to their range of fine watches. The Chyros is named after the ancient Greek word for the 'perfect moment'.

The German made, stainless steel case, is beautifully constructed in three parts, with both polished and finely brushed finishes. The coined edge of the case is echoed in the textured ribbing on the dial. Available either in black or white, both versions have eye-catching, polished, applied markers and a distinctly German look. The white dialed version has black Super-LumiNova lume on the hands - black by day but luminous at night.
The movement is the ultra-reliable Swiss-made, decorated, automatic Sellita SW200 TOP; visible through the mineral crystal display back. The crystal is slightly domed and has anti-reflective coating on both sides and the crown carries the Ickler logo.

The LIMES Chyros is available directly from LIMES for US customers for US$ 1,290, including shipping and all US duties and for International customers  for Eur 995 plus shipping costs.

Ulysse Nardin "Trilogy of Time" Platinum Limited Edition Set

Since its launch in mid nineteen eighties ,the " Trilogy of Time "line of watch collection added three spectacular timepieces named as Astrolabium Galileo Galilei (introduced in 1985), Planetarium Copernicus (introduced in 1988) and Tellurium Johannes Kepler(introduced in 1992).

These historical timepieces were actually produced to honour three brilliant names in the world of astronomy: Galileo Galilei, Copernicus, and Johannes Kepler. Now the Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin offers new set of Trilogy of Time timepieces in the Limited Editions made of Platinum.
According to archeological discoveries, astronomy is one of the oldest preoccupations of mankind. A science dealing with all celestial bodies in the universe, including the planets and their satellites, comets and meteors, the stars and interstellar matter, quasars, the systems known as galaxies, astronomy has aroused the curiosity of ancient people. Concern and questions (fears of eclipses and meteors) resulted in countless myths and many religious beliefs all around the globe.

To the first astronomers, the sky showed unmistakable signs of regular behaviour. Thus the division of time in years (revolution of our Earth around the Sun), in months (moon phases) and days has always been one of the basic principles to govern our lives.

In fact, ancient people soon realized that the Sun rose every morning from the east, crossed the sky during the day and set in opposite direction, the west. They soon also noted that daytime and nighttime were unequal in length. The Egyptians may have been the first to discover that the Sun moves completely around the sphere of the fixed stars in approximately 365 days.

The ancient Greeks made important theoretical contributions to astronomy. These were later transmitted to the Syrians, the Hindus and the Arabs, who compiled new star catalogues in the 9th and 10th centuries and subsequently developed tables of planetary motion.The history of astronomy took a dramatic turn in the 16th century as a result of the contributions of the Pole Nicolaus Copernicus.

Educated in Italy, he spent most of his life investigating astronomy and became most famous for his great work “On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Bodies” (1543), in which he refuted the Ptolemaic theory of an Earth-centred universe and demonstrated that the planetary motions can only be explained by assuming a central position of the Sun.

The Italian Galileo found the evidence to support the Copernican heliocentric theory after the invention of the telescope. Apart from discovering the phases of Venus and four moons orbiting Jupiter, thus proving that Copernicus was right, he made the sensational discovery that the Milky Way is made of a myriad of individual stars. Later, the Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe observed the Sun, Moon and planets and carefully noted his findings. His German assistant Joannes Kepler, using this data, formulated the laws of planetary motion, after discovering the elliptical orbits and varying speeds of the different planets. Sir Isaac Newton advanced the principle of an attractive force between the Sun and each planet, thus providing the basis for the physical interpretation of Kepler’s laws.

With the improvement of telescopes, astronomy became a true science. Edmond Halley predicted the return of the comet that now bears his name. Christian Huygens discovered the true nature of the rings of Saturn. Several renowned astronomers added their names to the gallery of famous discoverers: Lagrange, Laplace, Herschel, Leverrier, Adams – among several others including Albert Einstein.

Ulysse Nardin Trilogy of Time
When Ulysse Nardin launched the first astrolabe wrist-watch in 1985, this was regarded as a small revolution in the rather closed circle of highly complicated timepieces. Conceived by Ludwig Oechslin - who has since regularly signed numerous most useful creations – the astrolabium was the first of a Trilogy of Time. This very complex instrument indicates the position of the Sun, the Moon and the stars as seen from Earth. It also tells sunrise and sunset, dawn and dusk, moon phases, moonrise and moonset, eclipses of sun and moon.

The Planetarium Copernicus, which shows the astronomical positions of the five main planets in relation to the Sun and the Earth, was disclosed in 1988. Third and last instrument of the Trilogy is the Tellurium Johannes Kepler, unveiled in 1992. An incredible timepiece that rotates the Earth as seen from above the North Pole. A tiny flexible spring bends from the Tropic of Cancer to the Tropic of Capricorn to reveal which part of the Earth is lit by the Sun and to indicate the time and place of sunrise and sunset. Moon phases and eclipses are also shown. The three instruments are all equipped with self-winding perpetual movements.

Ulysse Nardin "Trilogy of Time" new set in Platinum
Because seven years elapsed between the first and last astronomical watches, the instruments have mainly been offered as individual timepieces. The new set consists of a novel presentation of the three instruments. All three watches are embodied in massive platinum cases. The size of the two original instruments has been increased. New dials have been designed to offer a greater harmony between the three pieces.
The luxurious presentation box made of black leather features three individual built-in battery operated motors. These new astronomical watches in platinum are only available as a complete set. However, the three original yellow gold individual timepieces are still part of the regular production program. While revealing the magnificence and splendour of the sky, may astronomy help mankind to rediscover the true sense of beauty of the Universe. Limited Edition of 100 sets.

Ulysse Nardin Astrolabium Galileo Galilei Platinum
Available with a dial (planisphere)for different latitudes.The Astrolabe was developed by ancient astronomers to measure the altitude and direction of celestial bodies over the horizon, calculate the seasons, the movements of the zodiac and to foretell eclipses.
This highly complex instrument indicates the position of the sun, the moon and the stars in the sky at any given hour as seen from Earth. It also indicates sunrise and sunset, dawn and dusk, moonphases, moonrise and moonset, eclipses of sun and moon, the month and the day of the week.
Technical details
Ref 999-70 (ø 41 mm)
  • Astronomical wristwatch.
  • Caliber UN-99
  • Self-winding perpetual movement
  • Platinum case.
  • Water-resistant to 30 m.
  • Sapphire crystals. Leather strap.
Ulysse Nardin Planetarium Copernicus Platinum
One single movement of mechanical excellency plus a stroke of pure genius combine Ptolemy’s geocentric universe with the Earth at its center, and Copernicus' heliocentric universe with the Sun at its center. This allows the reading of the astronomical positions of the planets in relation to the Sun and the Earth.
The moon rotates around the Earth. A perpetual calendar indicating the months and the sign of the zodiac completes one turn in 365.24 days at the exterior.
Technical details
Ref 839-70 (ø 41 mm)
  • Astronomical wristwatch.
  • Caliber UN-83. Self-winding perpetual movement.
  • Quick corrector. Platinum case.
  • Water-resistant to 30 m.
  • Sapphire crystals. Leather strap.
Ulysse Nardin Tellurium Johannes Kepler Platinum
Tellurium Johannes Kepler is a revolutionary timepiece that rotates the Earth in its true geographical shape seen from above the North Pole. A flexible spring bends from the Tropic of Cancer to the Tropic of Capricorn to reveal the part of the Earth lit by the Sun and to indicate the time and place of sunrise and sunset.
The moon rotates around the Earth. The dragon hand indicates the eclipses of the sun and the moon. The perpetual calendar completes one turn each year.
Technical details
Ref 889-70 (ø 43 mm)
  • Astronomical wristwatch.
  • Caliber UN-88. Self-winding perpetual movement.
  • Moon phases. 24-hour indicator.
  • Quick corrector. Platinum case.
  • Water-resistant to 30 m.
  • Sapphire crystals.
  • Hand painted enamel Earth.
  • Leather strap.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Gallet : Manufacturing High End Professional Timepieces Since 1466

Gallet, the famed manufacturer of fine military and professional timepieces commands an unmatched traditional expertise of 500 years as a leader of innovations in watch making industry.Gallet is considered as the world’s oldest watch and clock making house and since its foundation in 1466,the Gallet watch making dynasty continued to produce innovative and high end professional timepieces which became the favorite timing instruments for Governments & military,organizations and professionals that required more from a watch than simply telling time of day.

With the exception of a few 20'th century military contracts, Gallet timepieces were rarely mass - issued to service men and industry employees due to their higher cost.Instead, Gallet's highly developed timing instruments were commissioned for specific applications when lesser watches couldn't meet the requirements.

Origins of world's oldest watch brand
Origins of the Gallet watch company can be traced back to 1466, When a clock maker named Humbertus Gallet, became the citizen of Geneva. In 1685, Due to the abolishment by French King Louis XIV of the tolerance agreement of Nantes, additional members of the Bourg en-Bresse Gallet family, whose professions are documented as goldsmiths and watchmakers, joined their relatives in Geneva to live and practice their trade.

In 1702, Philippe Gallet ((1679–1739), son of Jacques Gallet (1649–1700) and Marie Bouvier Gallet, was included in the Geneva Registry of Jewelers and Watchmakers. In 1742, Pierre Gallet (1712–1768) married noblewoman named Jeanne Renée de Rabours. The marriage contract records show Pierre Gallet's profession as a master goldsmith. This document also lists the occupation of Pierre's father, Philippe Gallet (1679–1739), as goldsmith and watchmaker.Jacques Gallet (1745–1806) , son of Pierre Gallet & Jeanne Renée de Rabours also followed the family tradition and became a watchmaker & jeweler.

From 1800 to 1900
Jean-Louis Gallet (1774–1809), the son of Jacques Gallet (1745–1806) , became a French citizen when Napoleon annexed Geneva in 1804. He managed his father's jewelry and watch making company until his premature death in 1809 at age of 35.

In 1826 , Julien Gallet (1806–1849), the son of Jean Louis, relocated the family watch making business to La Chaux-de-Fonds, a major center for pocket watch production. At this time, the company was officially registered as Gallet & Cie (Gallet & Company). In 1848, after the death of Julien Gallet at the age of 43, his widow Louise, and sons Leon & Lucien took the charge of the company.

Under the control of Léon Gallet (1832–1899) , the company achieved a rapid growth. In 1855 he expanded the business by acquiring Grumbach & Co., a company used to produce watches with the brand name Electa. Gallet & Cie. is renamed Electa Gallet & Cie. and produced watches under both the Gallet and Electa brand names. In 1864, Léon Gallet's brother Lucien Gallet established the company's first US location in Chicago, with a New York City office following soon after. Together with Jules Racine, a cousin of the Gallet brothers living in the US, the company expanded its distribution to the American market.

In 1876 , In response to competition for sales of timepieces in Europe by large American watch manufacturers, Léon Gallet, together with Louis and Jules Courvoisier, Ernest Francillon of Longines, and Constant Girard-Gallet of Girard-Perregaux, established the "Intercantonal Company for Industrial Development of the Jura Industries". Benefiting from the unified strength of combined Swiss,manufacturing resources, the group was able to maintain its sales dominance in Europe. Marketing for the syndicate was primarily European based with an emphasis on sales to England.

In 1880 , Émile Courvoisier (1858–1937), son of Louis Courvoisier (1825–1885), married Henriette Gallet (1860–1939), daughter of Léon Gallet, and the working relationship between these two important La Chaux-de-Fonds watch manufacturers became familial. In 1881, Léon L. Gallet commissioned and trademarked the Gallet Lyre Mark. The Lyre Mark was stamped on watch cases and movements manufactured in the La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop. In 1882, a strategic partnership was formed with Jules Jeanneret & Fils, to supply mechanisms for Gallet’s professional use line of hand-held timers and pocket chronographs.

In 1883, Léon handed over the management of Gallet company to his older son Julien (1862–1934), but continued to remain involved in business until his 1899 death in New York. The JG initials were added to the Gallet Lyre Mark and the company name was temporarily changed to Julien Gallet & Cie to reflect the older son's control of the business. Georges Gallet (1865–1946), Léon's younger son, assisted his brother with the management of the company while working part-time at Courvoisier & Frères. By this time, the Gallet Company was producing more than 100,000 watches annually.

In 1893, Georges Gallet, son of Léon married Berthe Courvoisier (1868–1936), daughter of Louis Philippe Courvoisier . Berthe Courvoisier and her brother Émile, together with Georges Gallet and his sister Henriette, continued to manage the Courvoisier Frères watch company. Georges Gallet assumed the role as co-director of the company.

Introduction of first wrist-worn watches in USA by Gallet (1895)
In 1895 , Gallet introduced the first wrist-worn watches for mass consumption by men and women to the American market. However, these first "wristwatches" were immediately rejected due to public perception as being too unusual for women and too feminine for men. All unsold examples were soon returned to Switzerland for dis-assembly. In spite of initial resistance to this groundbreaking innovation, wristwatches were issued during WWI as a more useful way for soldiers to tell time in combat situations. As a result, this new concept gained acceptance and the other watch companies also started marketing wrist watches.

Rail - road pocket watches under Interocean brand name (1896)
In 1896, rail road pocket watches with chronometer grade movements with patented regulators were created by Gallet under the Interocean brand name and distributed by Timothy Eaton (T. Eaton Department Store) for railway use.In the same year Gallet also won a silver medal at the Swiss National Exhibition in Geneva.

Establishment of Musée international d'horlogerie (1899)
In 1899, upon his death, Léon Gallet bequeathed a sum of 43,000 Swiss Francs to the town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, of which 25,000 Swiss Francs was used for the construction of the Musée international d'horlogerie (International Museum of Watch Making). To assist the museum in building its initial collection of timepieces, Georges Gallet donated over 100 highly complex and valuable Gallet, Electa, and Courvoisier watches. Georges Gallet served as director of the museum for the next twenty years and the company name was changed back to Gallet & Cie (Gallet & Co.).

1900 -1911
In 1905, Gallet won a Diploma of Honor at the Liege Exhibition. In 1906, the company name "Gallet & Cie, Fabrique d’horlogerie Electa" was registered to reinforce Gallet's ownership and control of the Electa brand. Under the Electa name, Gallet continued to produce its highest quality timepieces. In 1911, Henri Jeanneret-Brehm, a member of the esteemed Jeanneret family of St. Imier watchmakers, purchased the Magnenat-Lecoultre factory with financial assistance from the Gallet company.

First Sweep seconds wrist watch by Gallet(1912)
In 1912 , Gallet created the first wristwatch for mass distribution to include a full-sized constant seconds hand originating from the center of the dial (face). This innovation proved useful for timing tasks that emphasized seconds over minutes and hours, including the measuring of the human heart rate. Gallet’s new “sweep second” wristwatches were issued to military nurses and medics during World War I.

The world’s first wrist chronograph featuring a “waterproof” case(1914)
In 1914 , Gallet supplied wrist-worn timers to the British armed forces during World War I. This early chronograph wristwatch was an obvious transitional timepiece. The MultiChron 30, a high quality timer with 2 subsidiary registers and 30 minute recording capability, was the world's 1st true wrist-worn chronograph. The 30 also holds the distinction as the world’s first wrist chronograph to be housed in a “waterproof” case. Engineered in 1936 by Gallet watchmaker, Philippe Weiss, the unique 2-part compression case for the model 30 was designed to protect the delicate inner mechanism from the adverse conditions found on the field of battle. The MultiChron initially utilized Valjoux 13 ligne movements, followed by the Venus calibre 150 for later series. When Gallet began production of their own Excelsior Park chronograph movements with 45 minute recording capabilities, the model 30 was replaced by the MultiChron 45.

MultiChron 30 (1st series for Royal Air Force), manual winding chronograph, 35mm diameter sterling silver case.

While technically refined and reduced in size from a traditional hand-held timer, it still retains the three-piece case, porcelain enamel dial, and center button crown of its larger predecessor. In the same year ,Gallet won the Grand Prize in the Chronometer category at the Swiss National Exhibition in Berne.

Hand held & Cockpit mounted timers under Electa brand name (1915)
In 1915 , Gallet started the supply of hand held and cockpit mounted timers to the British Air Force during WW I. Movements were produced in Gallet’s Electa workshop and marked with the Electa name.In 1917, Gallet won the 1st place award for chronometer accuracy at the Canton Observatory in Neuchâtel.

Setting up of Excelsior Park Manufacture (1918)
In 1918 , Jeanneret-Brehm started manufacturing under the company name Excelsior Park. Deriving the name from Jenneret-Brehm’s previously registered “Excelsior” trademark, the English variation of the French word for “park” was utilized at the prompting of Gallet to support the collaborative efforts of the two companies in their marketing focus on the American consumer. The cooperative relationship of Excelsior Park and Gallet lead to the development of a number of time recording mechanisms, including the calibre 40. These new chronograph movements were utilized almost exclusively in Gallet and Excelsior Park wristwatches, with a small number supplied to the Girard Perregaux and Zenith companies when production capabilities allowed.

Dodge Brothers Decimal Timer (1921, custom manufactured by Gallet in Switzerland for the American Dodge Brothers Company before Dodge became a division of Chrysler Motors.
In 1927 , Gallet introduced the “Regulator” and “Duo Dial” wristwatches for the medical and technical professions. The large-sized lower subsidiary seconds dial of the rectangular Duo-Dial and the predominant resetting sweep-second hand of the Regulator simplify the task of calculating a person’s per-minute heart rate.

Great depression and world war II
Gallet survived the Great Depression of 1930's with out much damage and continued to supply professional use “tool watches” to its military and industrial clients.In 1935, as World War II becomes imminent, Gallet began production of wristwatches, boat clocks with 8-day movements, and military stopwatches for Great Britain, Canada, and the U.S.A. At the start of World War II, production again surpassed 100,000 watches annually.

Occurrence Timer (1936), custom manufactured by Gallet for the US Geological Survey, used for measuring durations of seismic activity and other natural phenomena.
In 1936 , Gallet introduced the first water resistant cases for protecting the delicate mechanism of chronograph wristwatches from the damaging effects of humidity. This new innovation became standard on many models in Gallet's "MultiChron" line of professional use timepieces, as well as the Flight Officer military issue pilot's watch.

Introduction of Flight Officer chronograph(1938)
In 1938 , Commissioned by Senator Harry S Truman staff for the pilots of the U.S. Army Air Forces, Gallet created the Flight Officer chronograph. This wristwatch provided a combination of new innovations. Besides the ability to accurately record events ranging from 1/5th second to 30 minutes in duration, the rotating 12-hour bezel and dial (face) printed with the major cities gives pilots the ability to calculate changes in the time as lines of longitude are crossed. Truman was used to wear a Gallet Flying Officer during his two terms as US president.

Gallet Flying Officer Chronograph (1939),Commissioned by Harry S Trumans's senatorial staff for issue to pilots of the US Army Air Force.

Multichron Petite (1939) : Breaking the Gender Barrier
In 1939 , Gallet produced the Multichron Petite. The Petite was one of the first wrist chronographs engineered exclusively for enlisted women assigned to technical and scientific tasks during WWII. Powered by the 10 ligne Valjoux 69 movement, and measuring only 26.6mm in diameter, the MultiChron Petite became the smallest mechanical chronograph manufactured to date.Due to the general perception and resistance to "women doing men's jobs", the MultiChron Petite remained as an extremely scarce wristwatch, as very few examples were ever produced, rendering these extraordinary timepieces highly valued as rare and important items by today's collectors.

Gallet MultiChron Pilot Petite(1942), miniature chronograph designed exclusively for aviation, artillery timing, etc. Calibre:Valjoux 69, case :28mm, stainless steel ,functions:30 min. recording, round pushers, telemer & tachometer scales.
In 1946 , With the end of World War II, and after the death of his father Georges, Léon Gallet assumed management of the Gallet Company. After the war, Gallet’s renewed worldwide popularity with civilians and professionals in the fields of aviation, sports, medicine, and technology eliminated the necessity to manufacture numerous secondary brands. With the exception of the few brand names that the company retained for its sports and industrial stopwatch lines, most of Gallet's previously held trademarks went back into circulation.

Gallet Excel-O-Graph (1965)
In 1965 Gallet introduced the Excel-O-Graph. This pilot’s wristwatch featured a rotating bezel with integrated slide rule for making navigational calculations during flight.

Gallet Excel-O-Graph Chronograph (1965), professional pilot's wristwatch with rotating slide rule bezel and outer dial ring for navigational calculations, in-house Excelsior Park calibre 40-68 movement

By continuing to build mechanical timepieces for a clientele not influenced by changing fads and convention, Gallet survived the Quartz revolution of 1970's. In 1975 the death of Léon Gallet, sons Pierre and Bernard assumed management of the company and acquire the Racine Company. In 1983 , Excelsior Park closed its factory on 6 April due to the lack of family successors and a sizable decrease in orders of mechanical movements from its Gallet partner during the difficult "quartz crisis". To continue to support owners of Excelsior Park powered watches, Gallet acquired the balance of the company’s remaining inventory and assets. An attempt in 1984 by the Flume Company of Germany to revitalize Excelsior Park name proved unsuccessful.

Marathon Watch brand
In 1984 , Wein Brothers, a Canadian distributor of timing instruments, contracted with the Gallet Company to manufacture rugged wristwatches for distribution to the US Government. To facilitate the initial transactions, the watch dials (faces) of these military specification watches were marked Marathon, a previously held Gallet trademark (reg. 19 Oct 1915). Today Wein Brothers distributes military timepieces and related products under the Marathon brand .

In 1990, Gallet supplied 30,000 “Navigator” wristwatches to the Marathon Company for distribution to the U.S. military. Prior to Marathon’s fulfillment of the contract, prototypes were arduously tested by the US Government to withstand the most adverse of circumstances. All examples exceeded the military's strict requirements for sustaining accuracy and functionality during combat conditions.

1991 to 2000
In 1991, Pierre Gallet retired from the company due to ill health. His brother Bernard assumes control of the company, which continued to focus on the manufacture of professional-use timepieces. In 1996 ,to facilitate expansion, Bernard Gallet entered into a partnership with B. Neresheimer Ltd., a company with over a hundred years experience in the manufacture and distribution of fine silver wares and high-end luxury goods.

Relocation of Gallet factory (2002)
In 2002 , Gallet relocated its factory from La Chaux-de-Fonds to Grandson, a canton of Vaud approximately one hour from Geneva. Walter Hediger, a member of the Neresheimer family, takes the reins of Gallet as its CEO. In 2004 ,the company activity concentrated near Zurich. Bernard Gallet remained active with the company until his death in 2006.

Association with National Watch and Clock Museum (2008 -
America’s National Watch and Clock Museum is the western hemisphere's largest museum devoted to timepieces and timekeeping. In 2008 , Gallet & Co co-sponsored "Time in Office" at the National Watch and Clock Museum, an exhibition of timepieces worn by America’s presidents extending back to the pocket watches of George Washington. One of the featured items in the exhibit was the Gallet Flight Officer chronograph worn by Harry S Truman during his years in office as the 33rd president of the US. In 2009 ,Gallet & Co co-sponsored "Time & Exploration" at the National Watch and Clock Museum, an exhibit highlighting the importance of time and timekeeping in the fields of exploration and navigation.

Introduction of Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph (2010)
Gallet introduced a limited series of only 1050 individually signed and numbered Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph wrist watches , specially created as a direct benefit for America’s National Watch and Clock Museum, and to introduce the most advanced pilot's watch of the 21st century.

Flight Officer (NAWCC Museum Edition -2010), Automatic chronograph , stainless steel model featuring Gallet G330 calibre

Flight Officer (NAWCC Museum Edition -2010) is available in Stainless Steel,18k red gold and and Platinum models. Purchasers of each watch will be honored with an upper level membership for the America’s National Watch and Clock Collectors, Inc .(NAWCC), the non profit organisation that maintains the America’s National Watch and Clock Museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. These exclusive member ships will be granted at the Silver , Gold or Platinum levels, congruent with the model of the watch purchased.

Originally introduced in 1938 by Gallet ,the famous Gallet Flying(Flight) Officer Chronograph remained as a favourite of both military and civilian aviators for decades. Gallet Flying Officer Chronograph is the world's first wrist watch to combine timezone calculations with elapsed time recording capabilities, housed with in an extremely durable and water resistant case.Due to this , the Gallet Flight Officer Chronograph has always been a relatively expensive timepiece for limited military budgets. In spite of the cost, Senator Harry S Truman recommended the watch as the requirement for pilots of the US Army Air forces during World War II, and personally wore a Gallet Flight Officer Chronograph during his term as America's 33'rd president.Though out the watch's 72 years of active duty, Gallet has continuously upgraded the flight officer with the most advanced technology available to the timekeeping arts. The very pinnacle of this evolution is expressed in the new Gallet Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph, considered to be the world's most accurate and highly developed pilot's watch of the 21'st century.

Editions & Suggested Prices
  • Limited Edition of 250 in Stainless steel case : $18,500.00 each.
  • Limited Edition of 250 in solid 18k yellow gold case : $39,800.00 each.
  • Limited edition of 250 in solid 18k white gold case : $41,250.00 each.
  • Limited edition of 250 in solid 18k red gold case : $42,500.00 each.
  • Limited edition of 50 in solid 950 platinum case : $89,700.00 each.

The Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph wrist watch is powered by Gallet's state of the art Duo - Force Calibre,G330.

Gallet's professional timekeeping innovations
  • The first wristwatch with a center-originating sweep second hand for heart rate calculation (1912).
  • The first wrist chronograph with a waterproof case (Gallet MultiChron, 1936).
  • The first chronograph wristwatch with multiple time zone calculator (Gallet Flight Officer, 1938).
  • The first miniature chronograph wristwatch for professional women (Gallet MultiChron Petite, 1939).
  • The first chronograph wristwatch with additional 24 hour GMT hand (Gallet MultiChron Navigator GMT, 1945).
  • The first 24 hour reading wrist chronograph (Gallet MultiChron 24, 1947).

Important wrist watches made by Gallet
  • Gallet MultiChron 30 (1914): The world’s first wrist chronograph to be housed in a “waterproof” case. 
  • Gallet MultiChron Regulator Chronograph (1929): Used by drivers and pit bosses during the early years of the Indianapolis 500 Speedway. 
  • Gallet MultiChron 12(1938): Manual wind chronograph introduced in 1938.
  • Gallet Flying Officer Chronograph (1939) : Commissioned by Harry S Trumans's senatorial staff for issue to pilots of the US Army and Air Force. 
  • Gallet MultiChron Petite (1939) : Miniature chronograph designed exclusively for professional and enlisted women, measures only 26.3mm in diameter.
  • Gallet MultiChron Officer Chronograph (1941) : High quality square timer for woman professionals and as a dress chronograph for gentlemen and military officers.
Gallet MultiChron Officer Chronograph (1941)

  • Gallet MultiChron Commander Chronograph (1941): Mid size 45 minute recording chronograph for men and women professionals with unique in-house manufactured oval movement.
  • Gallet MultiChron Navigator(1943): Upon its release in 1943, The Gallet MultiChron Navigator was one of the most advanced and complex multi-function “tool watches” ever created for professional use.
  • Gallet MultiChron Medigraph(1943): Doctor's manual wind chronograph designed for medical applications.Functions: 45 min. recording, pulsations track for heart rate calculation. 
Gallet MultiChron Medigraph (1943)

  • Gallet MultiChron Navigator GMT Chronograph (1945): World's 1st wrist chronograph with 45 minute recording capability and separate north pointing 24 hour GMT hand.
  • Gallet MultiChron Calendar (1945): Professional 12 hour recording chronograph with automatic day, date, and month change functions. 
  • Gallet MultiChron Rattrapante Chronograph (1948): Sports and racing wrist watch with ability to simultaneously record 2 separate events. 

Image above:Gallet MultiChron Rattrapante Chronograph (1948)
  • Gallet MultiChron Yachting Chronograph (1955): A Special chronograph with regatta countdown feature, powered by an in-house manufactured Excelsior Park movement. 
  • Gallet MultiChron Astronomic Chronograph (1959): Highly complex chronograph with 12 hour recording capabilities, accurate automatic day, date, month, and moon phase features. 
  • Gallet MultiChron 45 Chronograph (1960) : Used by drivers and pit bosses at the Indianapolis 500 Speedway.
  • Gallet Excel-O-Graph Chronograph (1965) : Professional pilot's wristwatch with rotating slide rule bezel and outer dial ring for navigational calculations, in-house Excelsior Park calibre 40-68 movement. 
  • Gallet MultiChron Diver (1967): Professional scuba diver's chronograph with rotating 60 minute bezel, water resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet).
  • Gallet Flying Officer Chronograph (1970) : Special version for pilots of the Swiss Air Force, rotating 12 hour bezel and 24 cities dial for time zone calculation, Swiss military markings on reverse.
  • Gallet MultiChron Pilot Chronograph (1975) :12 hour recording chronograph with rotating 12 hour bezel for time zone calculations, dial indications for determining miles-per-hour. 
  • Marathon Navigator or Adanac (1990) : Specially created by commission for the US Government, issued to pilots of the United States Air Force.

Historical Pocket watches by Gallet
  • Webb C. Ball loaner (1910): Manufactured by Gallet in Switzerland, provided to American rail road conductors and engineers while their primary watches received routine servicing by Ball.
  • US Navy Pocket Chronograph (1914) : High quality timer manufactured by Gallet under the Jerome Park name for the United States Navy during World War One.
  • Pilot's or Cockpit Timer (1914): Watch with timer manufactured by Gallet Electa for the British military during World War One. British Ministry of Defense "Broad Arrow" markings on reverse.
  • Artillery & Task Timer (1915) : 30 minute timer manufactured by Gallet for the British military during World War One. British Ministry of Defense "Broad Arrow" markings on reverse.
  • NYCRR Pocket Chronograph (1916): Pocket watch with timer manufactured by Gallet for rail road conductors and engineers of the New York Central Rail Road.
  • Dodge Brothers Decimal Timer (1921) : Custom manufactured by Gallet in Switzerland for the American Dodge Brothers Company before Dodge became a division of Chrysler Motors.
  • Occurrence Timer (1936): Custom manufactured by Gallet for the US Geological Survey, used for measuring durations of seismic activity and other natural phenomena.
  • Decimal Artillery Timer (1943) : Decimal reading stopwatch manufactured by Gallet, used on Tank landing Ship #13 during the D-Day Invasion of Normandy.

Historical Pocket/Wrist watch brands owned by Gallet Group
•Breadfort Watch Co. (reg. pre-1898, pocket watches)
•Bridgeport Watch Co. (reg. 17 Dec 1886, pocket watches)
•Chancellor Watch (reg. pre-1898, pocket watches)
•Chief (reg. 28 Aug 1889, pocket watches)
•Commodore (reg. 7 May 1889, pocket watches)
•Continental Watch Co. (reg. 12 Aug 1879, complicated pocket watches)
•Defender (reg. pre-1895, pocket watches)
•Director Watch Co. (reg. pre-1895, pocket watches)
•Duchess (reg. pre-1898, woman’s pocket watches)
•Electa & Cie. (extra high-grade & complicated pocket watches)
•Enterprise (reg. pre-1898, pocket watches)
•Eureka Time Keeper (reg. 14 Jan 1884, pocket watches)
•Favorite (reg. 16 Feb 1884, pocket watches)
•Galco (reg. 14 Mar 1925, Excelsior Park stopwatches)
•Gipsy (reg. pre-1895, woman’s pocket watches)
•Governor (reg. pre-1898, rail road style pocket watches)
•Harlem Watch Co. (reg. pre-1898, pocket watches)
•Interocean (reg. 3 Jun 1910, Canadian Rail Road pocket watches)
•Jerome Park Watch Co. (reg. pre-1924, high grade pocket chronographs with Excelsior Park and Minerva movements)
•Jarco Watch (reg. pre-1898, pocket watches)
•Lady Racine (reg. 12 Aug 1879, lady’s pocket watches)
•Lifetime Series (reg. 19 Oct 1914, high grade watches, produced in the Electa workshop for Macy's, New York)
•Lily (reg. 17 Jan 1881, lady’s pocket watches)
•Majesty (reg. pre-1897, lady’s pocket watches)
•Marathon (reg. 19 Oct 1915, pocket watches)
•Mars MultiChron Watch Co. (wrist chronographs)
•National Park (reg. 13 Jan 1891, Excelsior Park stopwatches & horse timers)
•Park Watch Company (reg. 21 Sep 1929, Excelsior Park stopwatches)
•Patriot Watch (reg. 16 Apr 1889, pocket watches)
•Railroad Watch (reg. 12 Aug 1879)
•Richmond (reg. 29 Aug 1889, pocket watches)
•Security (Excelsior Park stopwatches)
•Select (reg. pre-1898, Excelsior Park stopwatches)
•Success (reg. 13 Jan 1891, pocket watches)
•Trilby Watch (reg. pre-1895, pocket watches)
•Trotter (reg. pre-1897, Excelsior Park stopwatches & horse timers)
•Union Square (reg. 2 Oct 1883, pocket watches)
•Warrior Watch (reg. pre-1898, pocket watches)
•Wonder Watch (wrist chronographs)

Gallet Today
Gallet is a renowned pioneer in the time keeping arts, and one of only a small handful of independent Swiss watchmakers that maintain manufacturing facilities.As a result, Gallet privately provides a number of technologically advanced components, hidden within the watches of other exclusive luxury watch brands.When Gallet , the world's oldest watch and clock house with over 500 years of experience in horological manufacturing, occasionally releases a new version of its own historical models, the quality is the best money can buy.

While recently expanding the company’s marketing focus to reach a wider audience of “civilian” consumers for its expensive professional-use timepieces, Gallet continues to privately produce components and modules for a number of other entities within the luxury-class timekeeping industry.

Gallet Watch Company
More Historical information on Gallet company is available at www.Galletworld.com
Official website Gallet watches : www.galletwatch.com

Friday, November 12, 2010

Rolex Prince Collection : Rolex watch dressed in avant-garde rectangular shape

The Rolex Prince collection reflects the art of watchmaking at its best as much as design in its purest sense. It is both a precise mechanical instrument and an achievement in aesthetics. It exemplifies aesthetic consistency among the movement, case and dial. Born of a team effort bringing together Rolex’s world-class designers and technical experts specialising in the movement, case and dial, it meets the demands of exquisite beauty and optimal performance.

The new Rolex Prince watch collection is the latest addition in a long line of regal timepieces. In 1928 Rolex created the Prince, which achieved great success and earned a place in horological history for its chronometric precision. With its avant-garde rectangular shape and the outstanding performance of its movement, the Prince is a watch of distinction. The unique positioning of the hands on two separate counters, one for hours and minutes and the other for seconds, was patented by Rolex. Now the Prince watch collection is a part of the Cellini collection.

An exceptional piece, a true gem as well as a technological innovation, the Rolex Prince paves the way for a new generation of watches that embody the technical mastery and all the know-how acquired by the Rolex Group regarding the components of the watch.
The Prince features a manually-wound mechanical movement – the 7040 calibre – specially developed and manufactured by Rolex. Rectangular in shape, it uses all the space to ensure precision and performance and to give free rein to the decoration of the bridges with designs identical to those on the dial.

The aesthetic aspects of the movement are as important as its chronometric performance. In fact, they are entirely designed and manufactured in concert with the dial, case and bracelet, and are visible through the transparent case back. The movement is equipped with a new shock-absorbing bearing, the Paraflex, an essential component for the reliability of the product. COSC-certified as a Swiss chronometer, it features a 72-hour power reserve.
On the dial, hours and minutes are displayed separately above the seconds. The guilloche decoration on each timepiece requires high technology and a redefinition of the art of watch decoration. Guilloche decoration is an art and will always remain an art. The various patterns – “godron”, “clou de Paris” and “rayon flammé de la gloire” – each give the dial a unique look.
The case is designed like a fuselage. For the first time, a Rolex movement is on show. A transparent caseback reveals a guilloche decoration on the movement echoing that on the dial. Four distinctly different cases were born of this original design and confer on each piece a unique personality. All are crafted in 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold. The leather strap has been fitted with a gold butterfly clasp, giving the watch perfect balance. The Rolex Prince is available in four different models born of four unique creative approaches.
Rolex Prince Collection :Models
-The Rolex Prince ref. 5441/9: In 18 ct white gold features a silver “godron” dial, two displays, Roman numerals and simple markings.
-The Rolex Prince ref. 5440/8 : In 18 ct yellow gold features a champagne “clou de Paris” dial, two displays, Roman numerals on the hours and minutes display and Arabic numerals on the seconds display.
-The Rolex Prince ref. 5442/5: In 18 ct Everose gold features a black and pink “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, and Arabic numerals on both displays which join in the centre. Developed and patented by Rolex, Everose retains its pink colour over time.
-The Rolex Prince ref. 5443/9: In 18 ct white gold features a black and silver “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, two displays, Arabic numerals, simple markings and red minute markings.

Technical details
  • Movement: Calibre 7040, Mechanical, manually wound
  • Power reserve: 72 hours
  • Oscillator Frequency : 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour), hairspring with a Breguet overcoil
  • Chronometer COSC certification
  • Style: Rectangular
  • Materials: 18 ct yellow gold, white or Everose gold
  • Bracelet: Leather strap with 18 ct gold butterfly clasp

Thursday, November 11, 2010

JS Watch co ISLANDUS Chronograph 2010 Limited Edition

Iceland based mechanical watch brand JS Watch co. is now introducing a latest addition to its Islandus collection, a watch with unique and personal design: Islandus Chronograph, a self wound mechanical chronograph with a traditional column wheel.

The Islandus collection is one of largest collections by JS Watch co. and one of the most sought after. This new creation meets the requirements of evolving demands with regard to watches as well as to the growing popularity of mechanical chronographs and the fascination for traditional horological devices.

This watch is first complication watch by JS Watch co.. In spite of the look and feel of a traditional chronograph, JS Watch co. still maintains the design in a classic style and minimalism is what the brand seeka to deliver; less is more when it comes to design. When worn this watch gives you a special feeling, almost like going 60 years back in time and you are looking for your trench coat and Humphrey Bogart hat.The production is limited to only 100 watches per year.

This Chronograph is based on 44mm Islandus case, made from the finest German surgical grade steel “316L” which is the same utilized for medical implants, including pins, screws and orthopedic implants such as total hip and knee replacements. The movement is the well renowned Valjoux 7750 Chronograph “Execution Top” and “Assortment chronometer”. The movement is custom decorated and has 25 jewels, blued screws and rhodium plated finish.

Like all previous collections from JS Watch co., this amazing new watch is packed with detail and personality. This time JS Watch co offers the day disk in either Icelandic or English, and the day is placed at the highly unusual nine o'clock spot which is just one of the many unique characteristics of this timepiece. This watch can be fitted with a Genuine Handmade Alligator strap or a Genuine Handmade Ostrich strap, as well as with various colored hands and four different dial colors with roman numerals.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010


The ladies’ tonneau range from the traditional Swiss watchmaker Milus combines curved outlines, soft colours and delicate ornamentation to create a bewitching work of art. CIRINA, the name of this enchanting ladies' collection, derives from the constellation Circinus, the Latin name for the compasses. The aesthetic balance of this expressive ladies watch arises from the sophisticated interplay between the curves of the tonneau and the arches of the case shape. At the same time, a special three-dimensional design makes possible the outstanding composition of volumes, dynamic lines and rounded shapes.

The case of the Milus Cirina is presented elegantly in precious 18-carat pink or white gold or in stainless steel, as desired. All versions are polished and brushed, and because of their gentle curvature ensure perfect comfort in wear. Different face colours in pastel shades, white and black, and colour-matched straps in alligator leather, in material with satin-optic or in stainless steel as well round off the perfect appearance of this remarkable ladies’ collection.

Each CIRINA variation is both elegant and romantic: entirely decorated with fine floral ornamentation, its dial is reminiscent of the awakening of Nature in Spring with its soft colours, sensuous fragrances and mild temperatures. Wonderfully drawn Arabic numbers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock reinforce the playful lightness and romantic radiance which shine forth from this watch. A domed sapphire glass protects the dial stylishly. The strap is a matching continuation of the dial and moulds itself softly to its wearer’s wrist.

Milus CIRINA “Stainless steel”
The CIRINA variation with stainless steel bracelet is the personification of elegance and sporty dynamism: with this model the exquisite, sporty touch of this ladies’ watch is accentuated by the unmistakable combination of the silvery,brilliant stainless steel case and bracelet together with the distinguished dial.

Technical details
Model: Milus CIRINA “Stainless steel”
  • Movement: Swiss high-quality quartz movement
  • Case: Curved case in polished and brushed stainless steel; Domed sapphire glass; screwed-down case back
  • Water-resistant to 3 ATM
  • Dial: Curved dial with silver-coloured applied numbers and index; integral decoration with delicate arabesques; lacquered dial.
  • Strap: in alligator or material in satin optic colour-matched to the dial
  • Clasp: buckle in stainless steel (satin-look strap),folding clasp in stainless steel (stainless steel bracelet)
  • Suggested retail price: on request
Milus CIRINA “Diamonds”
The editions beautifully decorated with diamonds shine brightly out of the CIRINA universe. In stainless steel, 18-carat pink or white gold they sparkle of thousand fires from the bezel. A stunning sight is the combination of sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn the bezel and the inner and outer surrounds of the models in 18-carat pink or white gold. The dial design of these versions further accentuates the visual effect by its division into two segments: in the outer area artistic arabesques accompany the numbers and markers, as in the stainless-steel model; the inner area in contrast has been glossy finished, adding additional emphasis to the shape of the case.

Technical details
Model: Milus CIRINA “Pink gold”– diamonds set in the bezel & the inner and outer surrounds
  • Movement: Swiss high-quality quartz movement
  • Case: Curved case in polished and brushed 18-carat pink gold 4N; domed sapphire glass; screwed-down case back; brilliant-cut diamonds set in the bezel & the inner and outer surrounds (Top Wesselton, IF-VVS) – 1.87 carats.
  • Water-resistant to 3 ATM
  • Dial: Curved dial with gold-coloured applied numbers and index; outer dial area decorated with delicate arabesques; glossy finished area in the middle of the dial; lacquered dial.
  • Strap: in alligator
  • Clasp: buckle in 18-carat pink gold 4N
  • Suggested retail price: on request
Milus CIRINA “Haute Joaillerie”
The convex case of the CIRINA “Haute Joaillerie” is made of 18-carat white gold. A breathtaking highlight is the combination of sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn the bezel and baguette-cut diamonds that are set with utmost precision into the inner and outer surrounds. A wristband in 18-carat white gold, fully adorned with white brilliant-cut diamonds completes this masterpiece, the combination of time-measurement and the jeweller's craft at its best.

Tailor-made to suit the individual wishes and needs of its sophisticated wearers, the CIRINA tonneau watch collection from Milus in stainless steel, pink gold and white gold constitutes a remarkable watch range.

Technical details
Model: Milus CIRINA “White Gold” – Haute Joaillerie – brilliant-cut diamonds set in bezel & baguette-cut diamonds on inner and outer surrounds
  • Movement: Swiss high-quality quartz movement
  • Case: Curved case in polished and brushed 18-carat white gold; with white brilliant-cut diamonds set in the bezel and white baguette-cut diamonds on the inner and outer surrounds (Top Wesselton, IF-VVS) – 1.98 carats*; Domed sapphire glass; screwed-down case back
  • Water-resistant to 3 ATM
  • Dial: Curved dial with silver-coloured applied numbers and markers; Outer face area decorated with delicate arabesques; glossy finished area in the middle of the dial; lacquered dial
  • Choice of dial colours: white, black/anthracite
  • Strap: Alligator (white, black) or in 18-carat white gold – optionally also fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds – 4.66 carats*
  • *Total of carats:approx. 6.64 carats
  • Buckle in 18-carat white gold (alligator strap),folding clasp in 18-carat white gold (bracelet in 18K white gold)
  • Suggested retail price: on request