Thursday, December 30, 2010

moVas Watches : Professional Timepieces Powered With Movements From Asia

moVas is a Singapore based,young and progressive watch brand founded by Sean Wai, a Graduate in Architecture. The first watch, the moVas GMT was delivered after 2 years of research and hard work with the help of his partners Wendy, Vincent and Sharon. The vision is to become a collectible watch brand with a following who appreciate it as an Asian made mechanical watch with a fresh design approach and housing affordable Asian complications. Each model will be numbered and produced not more than 100 pieces.

moVas GMT
The GMT is the first timepiece developed by moVas watch brand. This is a robust and everyday use watch dedicated for the working professional. Case is made with rugged 316L Stainless steel and designed with a diamond shaped crown for ease of winding and has a water resistance up to 10atm.The heart of the GMT model is a 33 jewels Seagull ST2858 movement manufactured by Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. Ltd. The GMT model is available in a limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces. Suggested retail price is USD 380 or USD 500 (with Sapphire Glass in limited quantities).


Technical details
Case: 45mm wide 316L Stainless steel
Finishing: Brushed case + Polished Bezel
Glass: Domed 2mm hardened mineral glass with AR coating internally
Case back: Stainless steel, see-through mineral glass
Water resistance: 10atm
Crown: 4mm x 8mm brushed stainless steel with V engraved on front.
Dial material: Matt Black sandwich dial with double printed indeces.
Lume : Regular white
Strap : Personalised moVas 24mm Matt Calf 4.5mm leather strap with white stitching
Buckle : Personalised moVas Brushed stainless steel
Movement: Seagull ST2858
Jewels: 33
Features:Winding. Hackable. Personalised moVas and decorated rotor.
Indications: Power Reserve indicator at 12H, 24H GMT at 6H. Hours, Min + Sec at center.

moVas Regulateur
The moVas Regulateur was designed as a dress watch that was also versatile enough for everyday wear. The watch case is built in a robust surgical grade stainless steel and coated with a rose/pink gold PVD. Water resistance is 10atm.Together with the larger case and bolder hands; it stands out from other watches just from only having all hands on separate sub dials. It was also designed with a diamond shaped crown for ease of adjusting time. The separated hands synonymous with a regulateur watch allows for ease of telling time. 100pc of this design has been produced and each watch is numbered. Suggested retail price is USD 320 Or USD 430 (with Sapphire Glass in limited quantities).


Technical details
Case: 45mm wide 316L Stainless steel with Rose/ Pink Gold PVD
Finishing: Brushed case + Polished Bezel
Glass: Domed 2mm hardened mineral glass with AR coating internally
Caseback: Stainless steel, see-through mineral glass
Water resistance: 10atm
Crown: 4mm x 8mm rose/ pink gold PVD brushed stainless steel with V engraved on front.
Dial: Matt white debossed subdial with double printed indeces. Applied indeces for 12H, 3H, 6H + 9H markings.
Lume: Regular white on hands
Strap: Personalised moVas 24mm Matt Calf 4.5mm leather strap with white stitching and alligator print.
Buckle: Personalised moVas rose/ pink gold brushed stainless steel
Movement: ST1711by Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. Ltd
Jewels: 20
Features: Automatic. Hackable. Personalised moVas and decorated rose/pink gold PVD rotor.
Indications: Hour hand at 12H, Min hand at center, sec hand at 6H.

moVas Chronograph
The chronograph model is designed as a sports dress watch with a fully functioning chronograph (stop watch). It is a modern watch inspired by modern day materials and features carbon fiber dial and a silicon strap and separate leather strap. Case is Stainless steel with Black PVD coating. It was also designed with an oversized diamond shaped crown for ease of adjusting time. The chronograph collection is produced in a limited and numbered edition of 100pieces. Suggested retail price is USD 670.


Technical details
Case: 45mm wide 316L Stainless steel with Black PVD coating
Finishing: Brushed case + Polished Bezel
Glass: Domed 2mm sapphire glass with AR coating internally
Caseback: Stainless steel, see-through mineral glass
Water resistance: 100mm/ 10atm
Crown: 5mm x 8mm black PVD brushed stainless steel with V engraved on front.
Dial: Carbon fiber with sandwich subdials. Each subdial with circulating and radiating embossed pattern and capped with a polished silver ring at the edge.
Lume: Regular white on hands and markers
Strap: Personalised moVas 24mm Matt Calf 4.5mm leather strap with dark grey stitching and Silicon strap with white stitching.
Buckle: Personalised moVas black PVD brushed stainless steel
Movement: 3LZF1 by Shanghai Watch Co. Ltd
Jewels: 34
Features: Automatic. Hackable. Personalised moVas and decorated yellow gold PVD rotor. Start/stop pusher at 2H and reset pusher at 4H.
Indications: Sub-sec at 9H, Chronograph Sec in orange at centre, min at 3H and hour at 6H. Min and hour hand at center.

moVas Diver watches
It took 2 years to create masculine, robust and visually striking Dive Watch. It comes in a rounded square case measuring 45mm wide (additional 7mm double crown locking mechanism) and 19mm height. The usual dive watch specs are covered, 120 click anti clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel, crown protector with double crown locking mechanism, Superluminova C3 lume, coloured minute hand, anti-shock and large lume pip.There are three different lines to offer: professional diver, GMT diver and AG (Avant Garde) Diver.

moVas Professional Diver
The Professional Diver features a sub sec, GMT, linear power reserve indicator and a 30atm rating, something exceptionally rare in Asian assembled dive watches. The bezel design features a CNC machined grip and is intentionally designed to be 6mm high for ease of handling. The additional height also gives the illusion of depth for the dial, making the watch appear more sculptured. The lugs are also designed to hug the wrist better and make for a much better fitting watch for smaller wrists. The Professional Diver is different to the other designs in that the bezel has numerals for 15-0, is accented in orange and has a more subdued GMT hand. It is also bead blasted for a more robust appearance and comes with 2 link stainless steel bracelet with a diver's extension. 50 pieces of this design has been produced and each watch is numbered. Suggested retail price for Bead Blasted model is USD 420 and the DLC Black model sells at USD 490.



Technical details
Case: 45mm wide 316L marine grade Stainless steel 7mm crown protector. Lug-lug 53.6mm -Crown: Double locking system, screw down and external lock switch.
Finishing: Bead blasted or DLC Black
Glass: Domed 4mm Sapphire glass with AR coating internally
Caseback: Stainless steel, bead blasted and engraved
Water resistance: 30atm
Dial: Double thickness Sandwich subdials.
Lume : Superluminova C3. White on hands and markers
Strap: Personalised moVas 24mm solid 2 link stainless steel bracelet with diver's extension.Bead blasted or Black anti-static rubber strap with clasp.
Buckle: Personalised moVas bead blasted stainless steel
Movement: Caliber 2533 by Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. Ltd
Jewels: 31
Specifications: 21600bpm, 45H Power Reserve, Antishock protection system
Indications: Sub-sec at 9H, Linear power reserve indicator at 6H, GMT hand at centre, date window at 3H.

moVas GMT Diver
The GMT Diver features all the specifications and functions of MoVas dive watches but slightly different from Professional Diver .Its bezel features countdown markers for 15-0, is accented in red and has a more obvious GMT hand. It is also hand brushed for a more refined appearance and comes with 2 link stainless steel bracelet with a diver's extension. 50 pieces of this design has been produced and each watch is numbered. Suggested retail price of Hand Brushed model is USD 420 and DLC Black model is available for USD 490.
Technical details
Case: 45mm wide 316L marine grade Stainless steel 7mm crown protector.
Lug-lug 53.6mm
Crown: Double locking system, screw down and external lock switch.
Finishing: Hand Brushed or DLC Black
Glass: Domed 4mm Sapphire glass with AR coating internally
Case back: Stainless steel, hand brushed and engraved
Water resistance: 30atm
Dial: Double thickness Sandwich subdials.
Lume: Superluminova C3. White on hands and markers
Strap: Personalised moVas 24mm solid 2 link stainless steel bracelet with diver's extension. Hand brushed or Black anti-static rubber strap with clasp.
Buckle: Personalised moVas hand brushed stainless steel
Movement: Caliber 2533 by Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. Ltd
Jewels: 31.
Specifications: 21600bpm, 45H Power Reserve, Antishock protection system
Indications: Sub-sec at 9H, Linear power reserve indicator at 6H, GMT hand at centre, date window at 3H.

moVas AG Diver
Where as most MoVas watches highlight their legibility and clarity in the presentation of time, the AG diver does the complete opposite. It takes the form factor of a dive watch, but strips it of all it's complexities to further highlight its true sculptural form. Still the usual dive watch specs are covered, 120 click anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel, crown protector with double crown locking mechanism, Superluminova C3 lume, anti-shock and large lume pip. Beyond that, the AG diver also features a sub sec, GMT, linear power reserve indicator and a 30atm rating, something exceptionally rare in Asian assembled dive watches.

The bezel design features a CNC machined grip and is intentionally designed to be 6mm high for ease of handling. The markings are kept to minimum, only showing the important countdown markers. The additional height also gives the illusion of depth for the dial, making the watch appear more three dimensional. The lugs are also designed to hug the wrist better and make for a much better fitting watch for smaller wrists. The AG Diver is different to the other designs in that the bezel has countdown markers for 15-0, is monochrome and has a black on black sandwich dial. It is bead blasted for a more modern appearance and comes with our very own unique 2 link stainless steel bracelet with a diver's extension. 50pieces of this design has been produced and each watch is numbered.
Technical details
Case: 45mm wide 316L marine grade Stainless steel 7mm crown protector. Lug-lug 53.6mm -Crown: Double locking system, screw down and external lock switch.
Finishing: Bead blasted or DLC Black
Glass: Domed 4mm Sapphire glass with AR coating internally
Caseback: Stainless steel, hand brushed and engraved
Water resistance: 30atm
Dial: Double thickness Sandwich subdials
Lume : Superluminova C3. White on hands
Strap: Personalised moVas 24mm solid 2 link stainless steel bracelet with diver's extension. Bead blasted or Black anti-static rubber strap with clasp.
Buckle : Personalised moVas bead blasted stainless steel
Movement: Caliber 2533 Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. Ltd
Jewels: 31
Specifications: 21600bpm, 45H Power Reserve, Antishock protection system
Indications: Sub-sec at 9H, Linear power reserve indicator at 6H, GMT hand at centre, date window at 3H

All the dive watches can be tested at greater depths due to its double seals on all openings and a screw down crown with a lock switch.

Official website : www.movaswatches.com

WeWOOD Watches : One Watch. One Tree

WeWOOD is an Italian watch brand that both Trendsetters and conservative style-types alike can appreciate.WeWOOD is unique timepiece, both in design and its feather-light weight, it sets itself apart with its nod towards renewable resources as well as its pledge to plant a tree for every watch sold.

A WeWOOD watch is both a fashion accessory and a statement. WeWOOD is made of beautifully carved, silky-smooth organic wood. Available in two very unique styles, both resembling the designs of mainstream luxury watches.

The watches come in four types of wood; Maple, black Ebony, a brown "Red Wing Celtis" wood (which is salvaged wood from flooring material waste), and an army green "Guaiaco" wood from South America that is most known for its use in herbal remedies.

Having emerged out of Florence, Italy in 2010, WEWOOD is already being hailed as an avant-garde approach to stylish sustainability. Despite being a trendy timepiece, it still raises the question of just exactly how "eco-friendly" can a watch made from wood truly be? Apparently, very. In an effort to minimize its carbon and environmental "footprint," WeWOOD boasts 100% organic materials and is completely free of toxic chemicals.

So Why Wood? For starters, wood is recyclable, biodegradable, and can last for centuries. When it is no longer needed, it can be returned to Earth. Since processing wood requires smaller amounts of fossil fuels than processing other materials, such as steel and concrete, it releases much less CO2. Wood also retains its ability to bind CO2 even after being used in homes and buildings, and in WeWOOD's case, fashion accessories. Add that to the fact that for every tree used, ten more are planted in its place and you've got the science behind The WeWOOD Way.

WeWOOD has committed to protecting our environment by pledging a portion of all proceeds to go towards the global reforestation of native trees in their damaged ecosystems. For every WeWOOD purchased – a tree is planted.

WeWOOD is now available at selected Italian and US retailers. WeWOOD is represented and distributed in Europe by Fratelli Diversi srl. WeWOOD is also represented and distributed in North America by LYB Productions.

Official website : www.we-wood.com

Zeitwinkel 181° Automatic with Small Seconds and Date

Zeitwinkel 181° features a modified classic three hand configuration, and is reminiscent of pocket watch designs. A hand for the hour and minute respectively, are complimented by a large, small-second display and a date display at the 3 o' clock position.

This Zeitwinkel model is powered with a manufacture movement caliber Zeitwinkel ZW 0102. The movement perfectly fits the diameter of the watch, and made possible to install a perfectly positioned small-second and a far off-center, large date display. 72 hour running time(power reserve) and high precision time measurement ensure that a Zeitwinkel watch owner rarely needs to touch the winding crown. Zeitwinkel model 181° is dedicated to those who does not confuse elegance with flamboyancy, but recognizes that inner values and an attractive exterior are not contradictory.
With its small-second display, the Zeitwinkel 181° features a modified classic three-hand configuration. One hand each for the hours and the minutes gives you a quick view of the current time. The large small-second allows the measurement of shorter periods. The length of the hands was coordinated precisely to the minute markers and the indices that are located at intervals of five minutes.

The edges of both the two large hands and the indices always break incident light in such a manner that there is a high contrast with the dial, so that the time can be read clearly. The display of the seconds self-assuredly takes its place at the "6" position without distracting the owner of the Zeitwinkel 181° from reading the time.

Due to the large size of the ZW 0102 manufacture movement, the smaller variant of the date display can also be read well at any time. It reliably moves to the next day at exactly midnight; the date display only needs to be corrected in months with fewer than 31 days. The crown of the Zeitwinkel 181° can be pulled out in several steps. Due to its easy-to-grip surface structure and the ample dimensions, the watch can be wound and the time can be set precisely. The date display is changed easily using a quick adjustment in the second position.

The Zeitwinkel ZW 0102 caliber is a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding. Developed by Zeitwinkel especially for watches from the first series, it is manufactured in small-quantity lots in Jura (Switzerland) with high precision machinery and the meticulous diligence. It is robust, accurate and versatile basic mechanism that can be equipped either with a sweep or a small-second and has a relatively large date display.

The running time is 72 hours. The movement has the formidable diameter of 30.4 mm, 30 bearing jewels and a total of 257 components, a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance and a robust three-quarter plate that plays a significant role in the mechanical stability of the movement. All plates and bridges are made of German silver. This material is noticeably harder than the brass that is usually used and requires the greatest precision in its manufacture and ornamentation.ZW 0102 caliber is chamfered and hand-decorated.
After thorough quality inspection and five-stage calibration, it is installed in-house and subjected to a running test that lasts several days. Only when the measured accuracy lies within a strict tolerance range is the caliber ZW 0102 sent on its journey to a new owner together with its Zeitwinkel watch.

The case for the Zeitwinkel 181° was developed in precise accordance with the Zeitwinkel ZW 0102 caliber movement over a period of 14 months. It is constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which, due to its high resistance to intercrystalline corrosion and non-oxidized acids, protects the valuable manufacture movement especially well. In addition, this alloy is especially well suited for products that are in continuous contact with the skin.

To attain interplay between polished surfaces and those with a matte structure, the casings are prefabricated using precision machinery at a traditional business in Germany and construction is then completed, primarily by hand. In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps for each case. The casing is water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar due to the back cover, which is attached with six screws.

Despite a diameter of 42.5 mm and a height of 10.97 mm, the Zeitwinkel casing displays an elegant and well-proportioned appearance. The case's unique design becomes immediately apparent the very first time you take a glance at the side of the watch. In particular, the interplay of polished surfaces with strikingly structured, precisely worked areas provides a Zeitwinkel watch with its distinctive appearance. This clear-cut design is continued on the back, with its large window showing the movement, as well as in the design of the crown.

Sapphire crystal is used on both the front and back sides of the timepieces. Sapphire is extremely hard and scratch-resistant; as a result it is ideally suited for use in high-quality timepieces. The convex lunette glass has a diameter of 35.4 mm. It has multiple anti-reflection coatings on the inside so that the hands do not reflect on the interior surface, and because a coating on the outside of the glass could wear down.

The case back glass is flat and has an anti-reflection coating on the inside as well. As a result, the time can always be easily read, even under extreme lighting conditions. Both crystal and back plate glass are tightly inserted into the casing of the Zeitwinkel watch using a complex sealing system, ensuring that the watch is sealed up to a pressure of 5 bar. On the back, there is extraordinarily large (30.9 mm) window to match the manufacture movement, which also has the extraordinarily diameter of 30.4 mm. This allows you to admire the details of the hand decorated inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch, instead of an industrial retainer ring.

Due to its 12 grooves and large diameter, the crown is very easy to grip. With its easy pull, the crown allows you to set all the functions of your watch and then disappears into a precisely sunken, space-saving notch. Screwed-down crowns are often difficult to handle and must always be wound completely to ensure that the watch remains sealed. Zeitwinkel uses a multi-stage sealing system with dual O-rings, so that even if the crown is raised, water cannot enter the valuable inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch.

Dial of Zeitwinkel 181° is a modification of the classic three-hand configuration, with hour and minute hands and a decentral, small-second hand. Instead of a sweep second hand, Zeitwinkel has milled out a so-called "small-second" in a finely structured area at the 6 o' clock position. Additionally, there is an integrated a date display at the 3 o' clock position.

The indexes set every five minutes and supplementing the minute markers, have the classic arrow shape and are coordinated precisely to the length of the hands. With their beveled edges, they always form a strong contrast to the dial, and are thus easily visible in all lighting conditions. As with all Zeitwinkel watches, the model 181° is available with a choice of a black or silver-faced dial.

Hands are carefully balanced and produced in one of the best specialized manufactures in Switzerland, silver hour and minute hands and a blued second hand make their rounds. Precisely coordinated to the indexes and the minute markers, they always make the time easy to read. Large hands are diamond cut to ensure the easy reading in varying lighting conditions.

In turn, the second hand provides this contrast by utilizing a starkly different color than the background. The second hand is fashioned to fit the especially large, small-second cutout in the face. In the black dial version, the second hand is silver. However the coating of any fluorescent compound on hands has omitted.

Technical details
Model: Zeitwinkel 181°

Functions
Displays hour, minute, small second & date
Running autonomy: 72 hours

Case
Material: Stainless steel 316 L
Height: 11.7 mm
Diameter: 42.5 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
Case back: Sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
Water resistance: 5 atm
Crown:Diam. 6.70 mm, bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves

Dial
Galvanic black, Zeitwinkel logo background
Galvanic silver, Zeitwinkel logo background
Appliqués: facetted & diamond-worked
Hands: Facetted & diamond-worked

Strap
Leather Hand sewn calfskin leather strap with flawless Louisiana alligator structure
Real Louisiana alligator full cut if desired
Brown/black
-rubber: Black
-impulse: 20 mm

Clasp
-(leather strap): Folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving
-(rubber strap): Folding clasp with applied logo

Movement
Caliber ZW0102
Manufacturer: Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Functions: Automatic, Small second, Balance stop, Quick date setting
Diameter: 13½ lines, 30.40 mm
Height: 5.70 mm
Winding: Rotor, bidirectional winding
Running autonomy: >72 h
Bridge and plate material: German silver
Bearing: jewels 28
Balance: Glucydur
-Spiral: Straumann
-Frequency: (4Hz) 28,800 alternations/hour
-Impact resistance: Incabloc
Adjustment: Regulated in five stages

Decoration
-Screws chamfered and polished
-¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva stripes (Côtes de Genève)
-Pearlage on interior surfaces of plates and bridges
-Lining on wheel bridge and rotor
-Edges of ¾ plate and bridges
-Chamfered and polished

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Off-centered Hour and Minute

The Vintage 1945 Off-centered hour and minute model exhibits an offset hour and minute display, freeing space for the small second, date and power reserve indicators. In this way the functions form a delicate composition, giving this timepiece a unique character. This uncommon leaning is tempered by the use of traditional elements: "chemin de fer" style minuterie, Roman numerals and blued steel "leaf shaped" hands that run round the “grand feu” enamel dial.

The dial is completely hand-made by experts at the peak of their art. This particularly radiant result, with its subtle reflections, is achieved through a long succession of steps. Mastery and patience are essential to achieve a single, unique piece: the application of a fine layer of enamel powder on the plate needs to be extremely regular for as homogeneous a surface as possible, with the firing monitored attentively, as a few seconds too many or too few may irreparably alter the creation. The enameller must then repeat these same steps to set three successive layers. Once the plate has cooled, the numerals and other indications are applied to the dial, with a mixture of enamel powder. Then it is fired again to permanently set the elements. For centuries, passionate and meticulous craftsmen have reproduced these traditional actions, instilling subtle nuances into the dials.

Building a bridge between watchmaking tradition and modern creativity, the Vintage 1945 Off-centered hour and minute is the mirror of Girard-Perregaux's philosophy, combining traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge techniques. Based on a strong, elegant historical authenticity, the creation also benefits from the latest developments. It is equipped with a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture automatic winding movement. Its sapphire case-back reveals the beauty of the mechanism for contemplation. The harmoniously curved white gold case, with its respectable thirty-six by thirty-seven millimetre dimensions, stands out on the wrist. An alligator strap makes a harmonious dressing to the piece.

Technical details
White/Pink gold case
Dimensions: 36 x 37 mm
Ivory enamel dial
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP01900
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’‘’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Function: hour, minute, small second, power reserve indicator, date

Alligator strap with folding buckle

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Zeitwinkel 032° Automatic with Sweep seconds and Date

The Zeitwinkel 032° features a classic three hand configuration: hour, minute and sweep second hand with an additional date display at the 3 o' clock position.The model 032° houses Zeitwinkel manufacture movement ZW 010 with automatic winding. The main purpose of the classic three-hand configuration of the Zeitwinkel 032° is to display the time. One hand each for the hours and the minutes give you a quick view of the current time. In addition, a clearly defined, long, sweep second hand enables the measurement of shorter periods.

The length of the hands was coordinated precisely to the minute markers and the indexes that are located at intervals of five minutes. The edges of both the two large hands and the indexes always break incident light in such a manner that there is a high contrast with the dial, so that the time can be read clearly. In contrast, the second hand remains decently in the background so that it cannot distract the user from what is important. Dial of Zeitwinkel 032° is accentuated with a fine latticework which can only be seen from certain angles.

Thanks to the large size of the ZW 0102 manufacture movement, the smaller version of the date display can also be read well at any time. It reliably moves to the next day at exactly midnight; the date display only needs to be corrected in months with fewer than 31 days. The crown of the Zeitwinkel 032° can be pulled out in several steps. Due to its easy-to-grip surface structure and the ample dimensions, the watch can be wound and the time can be set precisely. The date display is changed easily using a quick adjustment in the second position.

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 is a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding. Developed by Zeitwinkel especially for watches from the first series, it is manufactured in small-quantity lots in Jura (Switzerland) with high precision machinery and meticulous diligence. Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 is a robust, accurate and versatile basic movement that can be equipped either with a sweep of a small second and has a relatively large date display as an option. The running time is 72 hours.

The movement has the formidable diameter of 30.4mm, 30 jewels and a total of 257 components, a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance and a robust three-quarter plate that plays a significant role in the mechanical stability of the movement. All plates and bridges are made of German silver. This material is noticeably harder than the brass that is usually used and requires the greatest precision in its manufacture and ornamentation. ZW 0102 caliber is chamfered and hand decorated. After thorough quality inspection and five-stage calibration, it is installed in house and subjected to a running test that lasts several days. Only when the measured accuracy lies within a strict tolerance range is the caliber ZW 0102 sent on its journey to a new owner together with its Zeitwinkel watch.

The case for the Zeitwinkel 312° was developed over a period of 14 months in precise accordance with the Zeitwinkel caliber ZW 0102 movement. It is constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which, due to its high resistance to intercrystalline corrosion and non-oxidizing acids, protects the valuable manufacture movement especially well. In addition, this alloy is especially well suited for products that are in continuous contact with the skin.

To attain interplay between polished surfaces and those with a matte structure, the casings are prefabricated using precision machinery at a traditional german business and construction is then completed, primarily by hand. In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps for each case. The casing is water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar due to the back cover, which is attached with six screws.

Despite a diameter of 42.5 mm and a height of 10.97 mm, the Zeitwinkel case displays an elegant and well-proportioned appearance. The case's unique design becomes immediately apparent the very first time you take a glance at the side of the watch. In particular, the interplay of polished surfaces with strikingly structured, precisely worked areas provides a Zeitwinkel watch with its distinctive appearance. This clear-cut design is continued on the back, with its large window showing the movement, as well as in the design of the crown.

Sapphire crystal is used on both the front and back sides of the timepieces. The convex lunette crystal has a diameter of 35.4 mm. It has multiple anti-reflection coatings on the inside so that the hands do not reflect on the interior surface; a coating on the outside of the crystal could wear down. The case back glass is flat and has an anti-reflection coating on the inside as well. As a result, the time can always be easily read, even under extreme lighting conditions.

Both crystal and back plate glass are tightly inserted into the housing of the Zeitwinkel watch using a complex sealing system, ensuring that the watch is sealed up to a pressure of 5 bar. On the back, there is an extraordinarily large (30.9 mm) window to match our manufacture movement, which also has the extraordinary diameter of 30.4 mm. This allows you to admire the details of the hand decorated inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch, instead of an industrial retainer ring.

Due to its 12 grooves and large diameter, the crown is very easy to grip. With its easy pull, the crown allows you to set all the functions of your watch and then disappears into a precisely sunken, space-saving notch. Screwed-down crowns are often difficult to handle and must always be wound completely to ensure that the watch remains sealed. Zeitwinkel 032° has a multi-stage sealing system with dual O-rings.

The dial Zeitwinkel 032° represents the classic three-hand configuration, with hour and minute hands and a sweep second hand. In addition, we have added a date display at the 3 o' clock position. Due to the diameter of the ZW 0102 manufacture movement, the size of this display is appropriately large. Appropriately, the date display uses numerals from Zeitwinkel font. Nothing distracts from the most basic and distinctive function of a watch: the reliable display of the time.

Despite this, the face is striking due to its discreet latticework of Zeitwinkel logos, which becomes apparent only when the watch is viewed from an angle.The indexes set every five minutes and supplementing the minute markers, have the classic arrow shape and are coordinated precisely to the length of the hands. With their beveled edges, they always form a strong contrast to the face, and are thus easily visible in all lighting conditions. As is the case for all Zeitwinkel watches, the Zeitwinkel 032° is available with a choice of a black or a silver-faced dials.

Hands are carefully balanced and produced in one of the best specialized manufactures in Switzerland. The silver hour and minute hands and a blued second hand make their rounds. Precisely coordinated to the indexes and the minute markers, they always make the time easy to read. The large hands are diamond cut to facilitate easy reading of time in varying lighting conditions. This ensures that one side of the hand always reflects incident light in such a manner that there is a strong contrast to the dial. In turn, the second hand provides this contrast by utilizing a starkly different color than the background – blue for the silver dial and silver-colored for the black dial. However, the brand intentionally omitted the coating of hands with any fluorescent compound.

Technical details
Model: Zeitwinkel 032°

Functions
Display of hours and minutes,sweep seconds,date indication
Running autonomy: 72 hours

Case
Material: Stainless steel 316 L
Height: 11.7 mm
Diameter: 42.5 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
Back: Sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
Water resistance: 5 atm
Crown: Diam. 6.70 mm, bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves

Dial
Galvanic black, Zeitwinkel logo background
Galvanic silver, Zeitwinkel logo background
Appliqués: facetted & diamond-worked
Hands: Facetted & diamond-worked

Strap
Leather Hand sewn calfskin leather strap with flawless Louisiana alligator structure
Real Louisiana alligator full cut if desired
Brown/black
-rubber Black
-impulse 20 mm

Clasp
-(leather strap): Folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving
-(rubber strap): Folding clasp with applied logo

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Zeitwinkel 312° Automatic Watch

Zeitwinkel 312° is an elegant and modest timepiece having a classical, minimalistic design. The timepiece displays the hour and minute and no second hands or other indications. This classical timepiece is powered by Zeitwinkel manufacture movement ZW 0102. This watch movement with automatic winding and 72 hour running time ensures that the owner will always receive precise information about the time of day. The luxurious design of this generously proportioned movement with German silver plates in order to forgo any kind of embellishment on the back of the watch.

The Zeitwinkel 312° was developed for those who see a watch as a reliable companion that precisely displays the time. One hand to display the hour and another for the minute - anything more is necessary. The result of intentionally omitting the second hand is the modest serenity that the Zeitwinkel 312° radiates. The length of the hands was coordinated precisely to the minute markers and the indexes set at intervals of five minutes. The edges of the hands and indicators refract incident light in such a manner that a high contrast to the dial is achieved, always making the time easy to read. The dial is accentuated with a fine latticework that can only be seen at certain angles. The crown of the Zeitwinkel 312° can be pulled out in several steps. Due to its easy-to-grip surface structure and ample dimensions, the watch can be wound easily and the time set precisely.

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW 0102 is a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding. Developed by Zeitwinkel especially for watches from the first series, it is manufactured in small-quantity lots in Jura (Switzerland) with high precision machinery and meticulous diligence. Zeitwinkel caliber ZW 0102 is a robust, accurate and versatile basic movement that can be equipped either with a sweep or a small second and has a relatively large date display as an option. The running time is 72 hours. The movement has the formidable diameter of 30.4 mm, 30 jewels and a total of 257 components, a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance and a robust three-quarter plate that plays a significant role in the mechanical stability of the movement.

All plates and bridges are made of German silver. This material is noticeably harder than the brass that is usually used and requires the greatest precision in its manufacture and ornamentation. Zeitwinkel caliber ZW 0102 is chamfered and hand-decorated. After thorough quality inspection and five-stage calibration, it is installed in house and subjected to a running test that lasts several days. Only when the measured accuracy lies within a strict tolerance range is the caliber ZW 0102 sent on its journey to a new owner together with its Zeitwinkel watch.

The case for the Zeitwinkel 312° was developed over a period of 14 months in precise accordance with the Zeitwinkel caliber ZW 0102 movement. It is constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which, due to its high resistance to inter-crystalline corrosion and non-oxidizing acids, protects the valuable manufacture movement especially well. In addition, this alloy is especially well suited for products that are in continuous contact with the skin. To attain interplay between the polished surfaces and those with a matte structure, the casings are prefabricated using precision machinery at a traditional German business and construction is then completed, primarily by hand. In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps for each case. The case is water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar due to the back cover, which is attached with six screws.

Despite a diameter of 42.5 mm and a height of 10.97 mm, the Zeitwinkel case displays an elegant and well-proportioned appearance. The case's unique design becomes immediately apparent the very first time you take a glance at the side of the watch. In particular, the interplay of polished surfaces with strikingly structured, precisely worked areas provides a Zeitwinkel watch with its distinctive appearance. This clear-cut design is continued on the back, with its large window showing the movement, as well as in the design of the crown.

Sapphire glass is used on both the front and back sides of Zeitwinkel timepieces. The convex lunette crystal has a diameter of 35.4 mm. It has multiple anti-reflection coatings on the inside so that the hands do not reflect on the interior surface, and because a coating on the outside of the crystal could wear down. The case back glass is flat and has an anti-reflection coating on the inside as well. As a result, the time can always be easily read, even under extreme lighting conditions.

Both crystal and back plate glass are tightly inserted into the casing of the Zeitwinkel watch using a complex sealing system, ensuring that the watch is sealed up to a pressure of 5 bar.On the back, there is an extraordinarily large (30.9 mm) window to match the manufacture movement, which also has the extraordinary diameter of 30.4 mm. This allows you to admire the details of the hand decorated inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch, instead of an industrial retainer ring.

The crown of Zeitwinkel watch combines a high-quality exterior with excellent operating functionality. Due to its 12 grooves and large diameter, the crown is very easy to grip. With its easy pull, the crown allows you to set all the functions of the watch and then disappears into a precisely sunken, space-saving notch. Screw-drown crown is often difficult to handle and must always be wound completely to ensure that the watch remains sealed. The brand uses a multi-stage sealing system with dual O-rings.

Dial of Zeitwinkel 312° watch is sober and pure. Nothing distracts from the most basic and distinctive function of a watch: the reliable display of the time. Despite this, it is striking due to its discreet latticework of Zeitwinkel logos, which becomes apparent only when the watch is viewed from an angle. The indexes set every five minutes and supplementing the minute markers, have the classic arrow shape and are coordinated precisely to the length of the hands. With their beveled edges, they always form a strong contrast to the dial, and are thus easily visible in all lighting conditions. Zeitwinkel 312° is available with a choice of a black or a silver-faced dial.

The hour and minute hands are carefully balanced and produced in one of the best specialized manufactures in Switzerland. It is precisely coordinated to the indexes and the minute markers for easy time reading. The hands are diamond-cut to facilitate easy reading of time even in varying lighting conditions. This ensures that one side of the hand always reflects incident light in such a manner that there is a strong contrast to the dial. However the hands are not coated with any fluorescent compound by intention.

Technical details
Model: Zeitwinkel 312°

Functions
Display of hours and minutes
Running autonomy(Power reserve): 72 hours

Case
Material: Stainless steel 316 L
Height 11.7 mm
Diameter 42.5 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
Case: back Sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
Water resistance: 5 atm
Crown: Diam. 6.70 mm, bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves

Dial
Galvanic black, Zeitwinkel logo background
Galvanic silver, Zeitwinkel logo background
Appliqués: facetted & diamond-worked
Hands: Facetted & diamond-worked

Strap
Leather Hand sewn calfskin leather strap with Kawless Louisiana alligator structure, Real Louisiana alligator full cut if desired
Brown/black
-rubber Black
-impulse 20 mm
Clasp
-(leather strap) Folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving
-(rubber strap) Folding clasp with applied logo

Movement
Caliber: ZW0102, Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Functions: Automatic
Balance: stop
Diameter: 13½ lines, 30.40 mm
Height: 5.70 mm
Winding: Rotor, bi-directional
Running autonomy: >72 h
Bridge and plate material: German silver
Bearing jewels: 28
Balance: Glucydur
Spiral: Straumann
Frequency: (4Hz) 28,800 alternations/hour
Impact: Incabloc
Adjustment: Regulated in Jve stages

Decoration:
-Screws chamfered and polished
-¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva
-stripes (Côtes de Genève)
-Pearlage on interior surfaces of plates and bridges
-Straight graining on wheel bridge and rotor edges of ¾ plate and bridges
-Chamfered and polished

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time Pink Gold

Girard-Perregaux 1966 models pay tribute to the Brand’s great tradition, combining watchmaking excellence with elegant style. True to this spirit,1966 Annual Calendar and Equation Of Time houses an original mechanism: the calibre GP033M0. The highly practical annual calendar, which in this case indicates the date and month, automatically counts the different lengths of the months, so that only one correction a year is required, every 28 February except for the leap years. With its hand at 4:30 the equation of time indicates the difference between real solar time and mean time or civil time. In fact, the duration of a solar day varies from day to day due to the elliptical shape of the Earth’s orbit. This astronomical complication is based on an ingenious mechanism, including an annual disc with an elliptical cam reproducing the movement of the Earth around the Sun.



To enhance the technical quality of the model, Girard-Perregaux has fitted it with its Microvar variable inertia balance. On its rim it combines six adjustable screws and two inertia blocks, used respectively for adjusting the balance equilibrium and making a fine adjustment to the movement rate. This exclusive development gives increased accuracy and greater setting stability to the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time.

While the sapphire case-back allows to contemplate the movement in its complexity, discretion prevails on the dial side, with the emphasis on an original and highly readable display. Illuminated by the pink gold of the 40 millimetre case, the dial focuses on clarity: “baton“ indexes, thin “leaf“ hands and counters with precisely applied transfers for perfect readability of the functions. With its case and movement made entirely in-house by Girard-Perregaux, this watch has all the assets to seduce fine watchmaking connoisseurs.




Technical details
Pink gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back
Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP033M0
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 1/2’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 44
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, small seconds, annual calendar, equation of time

Alligator strap with pin buckle

Gübelin-Patek Philippe Jubilee Watch - Calatrava Travel Time Limited Edition Ref. 5134

Gübelin-Patek Philippe jubilee watch- Calatrava Travel Time is a special edition timepiece created in 2004 on the occasion of 150th anniversary of Swiss jewellery and watch house Gübelin. Legendary Swiss watch maker Patek Philippe has joined hands with Gübelin to produce this edition of the popular dual time zone watch, Calatrava Travel Time, in a limited series.

Travel Time unites the classic form of the Calatrava line with the complication of a movement that simultaneously indicates the time in two different time zones. It is the ideal watch for professional globetrotters, as it is strikingly simple to operate. People who frequently travel long distances by air know how difficult it can be to keep track of the time at home as well as the local time. Two easily distinguishable hour hands display the time in each of the time zones and a small 24-hour subsidiary dial provides day/night information for your home time. The local time can be set easily by pressing the two buttons in the caseband, which move the corresponding hand forward or backward depending on the direction one is traveling across the globe.



The Calatrava Travel Time features the manually wound caliber 215 PS FUS, and like all Patek Philippe creations, it is decorated by hand with painstaking care and bears the prestigious Geneva Seal. The elegant watchcase of Calatrava Travel Time is water resistant. The jubilee watch collection was produced in four different variations in a limited series of 180.

The Gübelin and Patek Philippe names are engraved on the specially designed dial, which comes in the colors brown, blue, silver and black. Other distinguishing features include the straight-sided bâton hour hands and massive-design indices. The transparent sapphire crystal caseback bears the Gübelin emblem and is dedicated "Gübelin 1854 – 2004". 50 pieces were produced in yellow gold with a brown dial, 45 in white gold with a blue dial, 45 in rose gold with a silver-colored dial and 40 in platinum with a black dial.

Technical details
Model: Gübelin-Patek Philippe jubilee watch Calatrava Travel Time – Ref. 5134

Movement
-Caliber 215 PS FUS 24H
-Mechanical movement, manually wound
-Overall diameter:21.90 mm
-Height:3.35 mm
-Number of parts:178
-Number of jewels:18
-Power reserve: Approx. 44 hours
-Balance:Gyromax
-Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour
-Balance spring:Flat
-Hallmark:Geneva Seal

Indications
Dual hour display for local and home time, minutes, seconds
Subsidiary dials: 24-hour display (home time) at 12 o'clock and seconds at 6 o'clock

Case
-18K yellow, rose or white gold or platinum
-Sapphire crystal caseback secured with screws
-2 buttons in the caseband for operating the time zone mechanism
-Case extension ridges for protecting the crown
-Dimensions:Diameter :37 mm ; Height: 9.8 mm
-Water resistance:To 25 meters

Dial
-Silver, brown, blue or black with applied indices in gold to match the case
-Bâton hand in gold for the display of hours in local time, the small seconds display and the 24-hour day/night information for home time
-Bâton hand in matte yellow, rose or white gold for the display of hours in home time

Strap
Handmade alligator band, Folding clasp in 18K yellow, rose or white gold or platinum with Calatrava cross

Suggested prices during launch in 2004
- Yellow gold :CHF 20,100
- Rose and white gold:CHF 21,400
- Platinum: CHF 34,000

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar & Equation of Time in White Gold

Inheriting the classic Girard-Perregaux style - sober, traditional yet unashamedly modern,the 1966 annual calendar and equation of time in white gold model features a mechanism which is both ingenious and easy to use.

One of the most useful day-to-day complications, the annual calendar displays the date and month while automatically taking into account the different lengths of the months. It requires just one correction per year on the 28th February, for non-leap years. Girard-Perregaux 1966 annual calendar and equation of time in white gold is embellished with a technical yet poetic detail - the equation of time. This rare, astronomical complication uses the hand situated at 4:30 to indicate the difference between the true solar time and the mean time, or meridian time. In fact, the length of a solar day varies daily due to the elliptical shape of the Earth's orbit.

In a further touch of sophistication, the calendar can be corrected using the crown in either direction. This makes correction easier, and the absence of a corrector on the case leaves its sublime curves intact.

The purity of the design thus remains unhindered by the mechanism's complexity. The functions are displayed on the dial in an original yet highly readable way. Baton indexes and fine, leaf-shaped hands mark the progression of the hours and minutes. The date, equation of time and small second are indicated by small, blued steel hands, each of a different shape, and the months are displayed in a circular window at 7 o'clock.

The back of the watch reveals the technical excellence of this model. The transparent sapphire case-back lays bare the complex architecture of its movement, which comprises 287 separate components, as well as its intricate finishes, each realised by the Manufacture's master watchmakers.

Technical details
Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar & Equation of Time in White Gold
Case in white gold
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.72 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back
Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux GP033M0 movement
Mechanical, automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 44
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, small second, annual calendar, equation of time
Balance: Microvar, variable inertia

Alligator strap with ardillon buckle

Gübelin “Turbulences” Tourbillon Pocket Watch

Gübelin “Turbulences” is a Tourbillon pocket watch conceived and made by the master watchmakers Richard Daners and Marion Müller in 2004 , to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Lucerne-based Jewellery and watch business group Gübelin (1854-2004). It has a construction that even amongst watchmakers has been deemed impossible: a tourbillon that rotates around three axles in a rectangular position to each other.

The tourbillon, invented by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1795, even today represents one of the greatest challenges any traditional master watchmaker can think of. The watchmaker of Swiss origin, probably the most famous of his kind, had devised the construction in his Paris workshops in order to gain the utmost in precision from his pocket watches. The constant influence of the earth’s gravity resulted in a lack of precision of the watches that were usually worn in a vertical position in vests and jackets. This default is due to the fact that it is virtually impossible to counterbalance the balance wheel and its hairspring. Breguet’s tourbillon put an end to this problem by guaranteeing that balance wheel, hairspring and escapement fulfil one rotation around their common axis, thereby neutralizing all inherent balance errors.

This rule still applies today, however only if the watch is always worn in a vertical position. Richard Daners and Marion Müller have built a tourbillon that eliminates the so-called gravitational error, no matter in which position the watch is worn. By creating this masterpiece the Gübelin ateliers demonstrated their willingness to venture upon the challenge of the impossible. The difficulty of developing a tourbillon on three axes only becomes obvious if one realizes how tiny the forces are at the end of the gear train of a mechanical movement. The escape wheel that transmits its impulse to the balance wheel via the pallets has just enough strength to move the tip of an eider down.

The movement of the golden pocket watch is symmetrical in its construction and is driven by two spring barrels under one common bridge. The gears are mostly hidden in order not to draw the attention from the three-dimensional tourbillon. Like a skeletized globe it is suspended freely above an opening in the base plate. Viewing the dial of the watch the delicate tourbillon can be seen through this circular hole. It is only from the rear that one discerns the whole glory of the mechanism. A large transparent caseback made of mineral glass allows a breathtaking view of the tourbillon’s complexity.

The see-through cage is driven via an invisible circular cogwheel sustained by a large precision ball bearing, arranged around the opening in the base plate. The lightweight cage turns around the first axis, perpendicular to the plate once in 135 seconds. It takes it 45 seconds to turn in its second axis. The escapement finally, situated in the innermost cage, accomplishes one full turn in a minute. Its axis again is always at a right angle to the second axis. Thus the observer sees an ever-changing image in continuous motion. The differences in running time of the three cages have the effect that it takes nine minutes until they all come back to their initial position for just one short moment.

The main cage of the tourbillon is suspended on one side only, which results in a so-called flying tourbillon. Therefore the axis on which it turns is invisible. By this the construction obtains a mysterious weightlessness. While trying to follow the complex movements of the tourbillon the observer will become aware of how his or her eyes try to dive into the gears to comprehend what can be seen. This is no easy task, seeing that we are used to gear trains with parallel axles, but none in which their position continually changes.

To round off the complexity of their masterpiece the two Gübelin watchmakers have equipped their escapement with a device that furnishes it with a constant amount of energy independent from the force stored in the spring barrels. The contrivance relies on the principle of inertia and is a solution that is equally ingenious as simple, based on a 1943 invention by Henry Jeanneret. It ensures that the escape wheel at the moment of release does not get its force directly from the spring barrels, but indirectly from a spiralled hairspring that acts similarly as a buffer in computer technology.

It is regularly armed via the gear train as soon as the escape wheel is stopped again. If it were not for the hairspring, the escape wheel would rotate freely on its pinion. The pinion bears a small platinum weight whose inertia guarantees that the entire gear train only starts moving with a certain delay after the release of the escape wheel. At the moment of its release the escape wheel, armed by the spiral spring, immediately hurries off, only being followed by its pinion when it has already stopped again.

Gübelin Jewellery & Watches : Toujours juste

Gübelin is a family owned jewellery and watch business group , now managed by sixth generation of its founding family.The Gübelin Holding is headed by its president Thomas Gübelin, in the fifth generation, assisted by his children Raphael and Sara Gübelin. Besides the jewellery stores of Gübelin AG and the Gübelin Ateliers AG, the corporate group also includes Gübelin Gem Lab Ltd., a scientific gemstone laboratory recognised worldwide.

Besides its expertise in jewelery creations and gemstones, Gübelin also represents some elite watch brands such as Patek Philippe, Omega,Ebel,Breguet,Parmigiani,Longines, Tissot, Hermes,Glashutte original,Tag Heuer, Montblanc etc.

In the 19th century Eduard Jakob Gübelin began working as a watchmaker for Maurice Breitschmid at his watchmaker’s shop in Lucerne. Shortly thereafter he married Breitschmid’s daughter and became a partner in the business. Thus, in 1854, the company Gübelin was created, laying the foundation stone for a successful family business, which from 2011 is now to be managed in its sixth generation.

Since 1854 the Gübelin family business has stood for the highest standards in jewellery, gemstones and watches. With its range of select gems, signature jewellery collections and elegant timekeepers, it boasts a presence at Switzerland’s premier locations: Lucerne, Zurich, Basel, Bern, Lugano, St. Moritz and Geneva. At the head of the business, now in its sixth generation, stands Raphael Gübelin, 33, as CEO together with his sister Sara, 36, as equal partner and member of the Board of Directors. Besides the jewellery stores and the Gübelin Ateliers the corporate group also comprises the Gübelin Gem Lab, a scientific gemstone laboratory of world renown. In his position as head of the company Raphael Gübelin will continue on from his father’s business philosophy and nurture the company’s traditional values of genuineness, purity, exclusivity, quality and authenticity.

Gübelin Dynasty(From 1854 - 2011)
1st generation: Breitschmid, Jakob Josef (1832-1910); ran the company from 1854 to 1889
2nd generation: Gübelin - Breitschmid, Eduard Jakob (1861-1923); ran the company from 1889 to 1923
3rd generation: Gübelin - Schriber, Eduard Moritz (1888-1945); ran the company from 1923 to 1945
4th generation: Gübelin, Eduard and Walter (1913 and 1914); ran the company from 1945 to 1976/1989
5th generation: Gübelin - Hofer, Thomas (1948); ran the company from 1989 to 2010
6th generation: Gübelin, Sara and Raphael (1974 and 1977); will run the company from 2011.

The name Gübelin has been renowned far beyond the borders of Switzerland for more than 150 years, offering its Swiss and international clientele an assortment of countless and varied treasures. Thanks to the proven expert knowledge of some 200 employees the customer always enjoys competent ad-vice and assistance. Whether the repair of a watch, the creation of a unique signature piece of jewellery or the quest for a special gemstone, over the past 150 years Gübelin has acquired a centre of competence that is unrivalled. As a manufacturer of its own jewellery collection and watch make, the name Gübelin is also a guarantee of the utmost competence in the sourcing of brands and gemstones. Likewise, the global network of leading manufacturers and suppliers speaks for the exclusivity and quality of the range on offer, whether gemstones, diamonds, pearls or watches.

From 2011 Raphael Gübelin will continue along the proven path, upholding the tradition and offering customers fine jewellery creations as well as famous brands of watches. He will also add his own ideas to the company. They include consistently and continually attending to those who have a stake in the company. In keeping with a unique stakeholder relationship strategy all the target groups who share in the company’s success (the suppliers, financial partners, service providers and employees) are to be more closely integrated, their expectations and suggestions precisely analysed and incorporated into the business process.

The hourglass features on the family coat of arms, belongs to the company logo, and is a hallmark of quality and responsibility on jewellery and watches. Gübelin’s motto, Toujours juste, describes both the family’s and the firm’s approach. Brand values include tradition, service competence, design competence, manufacturing competence, and a quality and exclusive range of products.

Official website : http://www.guebelin.ch

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune Edition 2011

Clearly contemporary and decidedly distinguished, the Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune timepiece sets aside traditional principles to create its own philosophy of time. A representation of time that is not without surprises, that toys with displays without ever compromising legibility. A structured image of time that conceals an exemplary rigor behind its originality.

From the outset, the Pontos range expresses its desire to desert well trodden paths in favour of blazing its own trail. With the off-center layout as a distinctive feature, it breaks free from accepted standards and established practice with great elegance and refinement. Faithful to these principles, the new moon-phase timepiece reinterprets in its turn one of the most beautiful horological complications. A worthy descendant of the 2010 off-center moon-phase model, it has a 43 mm stainless steel case and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings on both sides to enhance the functions of its self-winding mechanism, the ML 122 caliber.

This piece is undeniably beautifully balanced. And yet, with the off-center displays, the eye finds none of its usual reference points. Hours and minutes are located at 10 o’clock in a disc with long, slim applied indexes. Following the round shape of the dial, they radiate majestically out into the face. The date appears through an aperture located at 6 o’clock, while at 4 o’clock the moon-phase indicator performs its elegant waltz. Two superposed discs lead the dance: one in metallized sapphire crystal reveals the phases and age of the moon; the other, lying underneath, indicates day or night.

The black dial displays information plainly and clearly. The slim diamond-studded markers and luminescent-tipped hands create a striking contrast with its sun-brushed satin texture. A rhodium-dial version accentuates the interplay of light and gives the watch a more classically elegant look.

Technical details
Case
■ Stainless steel, Ø 43 mm, satin and polished finishes
■ Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
■ Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal
■ Quick moon-phase corrector at 2 o’clock
■ Water-resistant to 50 m/5 atm

Dial
■ The design of the dial, featuring an off-centered display, is a glowing tribute to the contemporary reinterpretation of our signature
■ Large opening revealing the moon phases and day/night discs at 4 o’clock, and the date at 6 o’clock
■ Moon-age indication at 4 o’clock, displaying the days remaining to the full moon
■ Available in black or rhodium color, featuring diamond-cut applied hour markers on a sun-brushed finish

Hands and discs
■ Diamond-cut faceted hours and minutes hands with white Superluminova C1 (blue emission)
■ Day/night disc
■ Sapphire moon disc with metal-coated moon turning over the day/night disc

Strap
■ Black large-scale alligator-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching
■ Folding steel clasp with push-pieces
■ Satin and polished finish

Movement
Automatic movement, self-winding ML 122-10
Vibration: 28,800 vibrations/h, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 38 hours
Jewels:34
Adjustments:3 positions after full winding and after 24 hours
Decoration: Rhodium-plated movement, circular graining, snail, Côtes de Genève

Functions
■ Hours, minutes and seconds by off-center hands
■ Moon phase by sapphire disc at 4 o’clock, with moon age indication
■ Day-night disc at 4 o’clock
■ Date at 6 o’clock

REFERENCE NO.
PT6318–SS001–130 (silver dial), PT6318–SS001–330 (black dial)

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe Valjoux Edition 2011

The new Pontos Chronographe, with its sporty, sculptured lines, shows off its distinctive features. Contemporary in style, the blue dial highlights the chronograph functions and gives substance to its overall proportions. Powered by precision mechanics, this watch is aimed at those who appreciate sportsmanship and design.

A variation on the Pontos Chronographe series launched in 2004, the Pontos Chronographe timepieces are operated by an automatic movement based on the Valjoux 7750 caliber, renowned for its performance and reliability. It is fitted with a chronograph featuring 30-minute and 12-hour counters, and the small seconds and date apertures are at 9 and 6 o’clock respectively, creating a beautifully balanced display of the time data.

The steely blue color of the sun-brushed finished dial confirms its high quality and pedigree. To achieve optimum legibility, the applied index markers and hands have a luminescent coating. The steel case features skilfully designed push-pieces that retract into the case middle, while the case back opens fully to reveal the beauty of the mechanism inside. Available with a bracelet or leather strap, the new Maurice Lacroix chronograph is an utterly reliable master of short time measurement.

Technical details 
Case
■ Ø 43 mm, steel case
■ Refined finishing, combining polished and brushed surfaces
■ Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
■ Screwed case-back with large sapphire crystal
■ Large Ø 7 mm crown with radial pattern for optimum handling
■ Unique pushers featuring a tip-over device with horizontally brushed finishes and polished facets
■ Water-resistant to 50 m/5 atm

Dial
■ Available in Blue color with silver counters
■ Pure, simple design highlighted by the sun-brushed finishing on the base
■ Snailed counters
■ Applied counter rings featuring a play on brushed and snailed finishing
■ Diamond-cut, faceted applied hour-markers

Hands and discs
Diamond-cut, faceted, rhodium-plated hands, with “BGW9” Superluminova (blue lume).

Strap
Crocodile-skin (Crocodylus niloticus) strap with large scales, calfskin lining and matching stitching
Folding clasp: Steel folding clasp with pushers and pinch system. Brushed finishing

Metal bracelet
■ 5-row bracelet for superior comfort
■ Alternation of vertical-brushed and polished finishing
■ Folding clasp with push-pieces

Movement
Personalized Valjoux 7750 caliber, with guaranteed quality and precision
Self-winding caliber ML112 based on the Valjoux 7750 movement
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/h, 4 Hz
Power reserve:46 hours
Jewels:25
Adjustments:3 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours
Decoration: Rhodium-plated movement, decorated by hand: circular-grained with Côtes de Genève.

Functions
■ Hours and minutes indicated by central hands
■ Small seconds at 9 o’clock
■ Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand
■ 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o’clock
■ 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock
■ Date indicated in an aperture at 6 o’clock

REFERENCE NO:PT 6188 – SS001 – 430 (leather strap)
PT 6188 – SS002 – 430 (steel bracelet)

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde Edition 2011

In 2010, Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix set a cat amongst the pigeons in mechanical watchmaking by developing a square wheel mechanism––the first in watchmaking history. Quite apart from its sheer aesthetic appeal, it introduced a whole new way of marking the passage of time. For 2011, Maurice Lacroix’s Roue Carrée offers a fresh angle on the passage of time, by focusing on the seconds display. As a result, the Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde is a truly fascinating spectacle to behold.

Designed by watchmaker and engineer Michel Vermot in collaboration with the Haute Ecole Arc du Locle, the square wheel mechanism has taken years to perfect. As the gear profiles of non-circular wheels cannot, by definition, be regular, the principal challenge was to define the shape of the teeth in order to ensure constant power transfer. The wheels were made using LiGA technology—a revolutionary process that combines the techniques of photolithography and electroforming to make high-precision micro-components that cannot be made with traditional machining methods.

The eye is mesmerized from the very first glance by the hypnotic movement of the Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde. The small-seconds display comes to life before your very eyes thanks to the steadfast, rhythmic movement of the square wheel with its geometric openwork. Its prominent phosphorescent corners serve as a reminder of time’s constant march onwards. The square wheel, whose corners and contours mesh with the same precision as its circular counterparts, is activated by a toothed clover-leaf wheel and turns continuously to create an extremely dynamic visual effect.

In order to leave the seconds hand firmly in the spotlight, the hours and minutes are indicated by a simple central hands coated with Superluminova. A power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock adds balance to the picture. The hours, minutes and power reserve are displayed directly on the main plate, which serves as the dial. The watch’s readability is enhanced by its Grand Colimaçon (or snailed) black or rhodium finish, which makes the indicators literally glow, while the alternation of satin-brushed and polished finishes adorning the 43 mm steel case showcases its silhouette to perfection. A large sapphire-crystal case back reveals the refinement of the ML156 mechanical movement, decorated with Grand Colimaçon in finest Swiss watchmaking tradition.

The Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde—an unprecedented fusion of technology and talent—encapsulates the philosophy of Maurice Lacroix and its Masterpiece collection. A philosophy in which engineering and beauty dovetail to challenge the boundaries of design, in an attempt to change the very face of time. Resolutely masculine and eminently technical, this new item—a contemporary watch that breaks with preconceived ideas to stay ahead of its time— confirms the brand’s status as expert innovators. Galvanizing the most technical of watchmaking skills, it offers time a new lease of life.

Engineer and watchmaker Michel Vermot has taught at the Haute Ecole Arc, located in Le Locle (Switzerland), for 20 years. A specialist in mechanical and electronic watches, he has managed many industrial mandates in the framework of his role at the HE-ARC. He now runs the Movement Development Department at Maurice Lacroix.

Technical details
References: MP7158-SS001-900 (black) MP7158-SS001-901 (Rhodium)

Case
Steel, Φ 43 mm, satin-brushed and polished finish
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 atm

Movement bridge /Dial
In keeping with the Masterpiece Régulateur Roue Carrée design, the dial has been created on the main plate of the movement itself and is decorated with a large “Grand Colimaçon”
The square wheel and clover leaf mesh to transfer power with the same precision as the cogs in their circular counterparts; in addition the wheel is used to indicate the seconds
The hours and power-reserve indications are engraved on the main plate
Dial available in black or rhodium
The square wheel and clover leaf are highlighted by a circular opening on the movement main plate itself, decorated with a sandblasted background.

Hands
Trailing square wheel for the seconds display, circular satin-brushed finish upper part and polished circumference, seconds pointer coated with white C1 Superluminova (blue luminescence)
No visible rotation axis
Diamond-polished and faceted hours and minutes hands, coated with white C1 Superluminova (blue luminescence)
Diamond-polished and faceted power-reserve hand

Strap/Bracelet
Large-scale black crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching

Buckle
Folding steel clasp with push buttons
Satin-brushed and polished finish

Movement
ML 156 mechanical movement, hand-wound
Developed in collaboration with HE-ARC, manufactured and assembled by Maurice Lacroix
Design patented (square wheel / clover leaf)
Vibrations:18,000 vph, 2.5 Hz
Power reserve:45 hours
Jewels:34
Adjustments:5 positions after full winding and after 24 hours
Decoration:Grand Colimaçon, rhodium finish

Functions
Hours and minutes indicated by central hands
Small-second display by square wheel at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve hand at 3 o’clock

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Calendrier Rétrograde and Masterpiece Double Rétrograde Edition 2011

The timepieces in the Masterpiece Collection are the perfect synthesis of Maurice Lacroix know-how and are anchored in an urban, dynamic and elegant 21st century. This collection spearheads the brand, and, its interpretation is a wonderful illustration of complications, especially retrograde displays, that Maurice Lacroix has been specializing in for many years.

Until now Masterpiece watches have evolved in step with hand-wound mechanisms, but this year, for the first time, their technological sophistication is embodied in automatic calibers. Meeting the highest manufacturing standards of traditional mechanical watchmaking, the new Masterpiece models, Calendrier Rétrograde and Masterpiece Double Rétrograde, based on historical pieces, place polished elegance at the heart of a technological sophistication served by modernist design.

In keeping with the new advertising concept, “Never Stop Moving”, the automatic Masterpiece watches have the idea of movement as their guiding principle. The caliber, wound up by the simple movement of the wrist is the exemplification of such a philosophy. From a broader perspective, the Never Stop Moving concept is evident in the quest for innovation and in the continuous research in technical and aesthetic fields that dictate the design of each Maurice Lacroix watch. A brand that accepts no compromise.

Available in a limited edition series of 50, the Masterpiece Calendrier Rétrograde and Masterpiece Double Rétrograde are produced in pink gold. The large 46 mm diameter cases, statuesque in appearance, afford time a space in keeping with its dimensions. The case, which is water-resistant to a depth of 50 m, has a very contemporary style polished and satin finish, with nothing superfluous and no decorative flourishes. Its plain simplicity is echoed in the blue dials that display the time data in a methodical and practical fashion, whatever the model.

One model features a retrograde date at 10 o’clock, the other a GMT double retrograde and date at 12 and 6 o’clock. The delicately cut out displays, stylish despite their technical sophistication, are enhanced by the sun-brushed satin finish of the dial, the deep blue colour of which confirms their credentials. The power reserve display, located at 2 or 3 o’clock depending on the model, is characterized by its bold, dynamic appearance. The pink-gold applied markers sit in a curve that stretches out gradually, giving a real impression of movement. As for the small seconds hand, it circles regularly without stopping.

In a clear, striking contrast, the fine pink-gold hands skim round the blue dial, their diamond-cut finish further enhanced by their gently curved shape. The absence of an arbor hole confirms traditional design where attention to the minutest detail is taken to its extreme. The purity, the quiet poise of the design that emanates from these timepieces cannot fail to evoke the most beautiful architectural creations where design, distilled to its purest essence, transfigures form and function. Perfect visual harmony and crystal-clear legibility testify explicitly to this.

The self-winding movements, ML 190 for the Calendrier Rétrograde and ML 191 for the Double Rétrograde, are created in the pure tradition of Swiss watchmaking. The finish, even of the tiniest component, invisible after the watch is assembled, can be seen through the sapphire crystal case backs. Their 16½ line diameter makes them among the largest automatic calibers in the market.

In response to the expectations of a demanding public for whom performance is a way of life, the new automatic Masterpiece watches are also available in steel in a more popular case size of 43 mm, with two dial finishes, black and silver-plated. Their especially competitive positioning on the Manufacture watch market brings powerful added value to the Maurice Lacroix range.

Technical details
18K Pink Gold, Limited edition (50 PIECES)
Reference Number: MP6509-PG101-430 (Calendrier Rétrograde), MP6519-PG101-430 (Double Rétrograde)

Case
■ 18K pink gold, Ø 46 mm, satin and polished finishes
■ Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
■ Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal
■ Water-resistant to 50 m/5 atm

Dial
■ Based on a solid 925 silver plate
■ Deep blue color, with sun brushed finishing
■ 18K pink-gold diamond-cut applied hour markers, small seconds and power reserve indications

Hands
■ 18K pink-gold stamped hours and minutes hands with diamond-cut head in the pure tradition of hands-making
■ 18K pink-gold hands for small seconds and power reserve indications
■ Rhodium-colored hand for the retrograde indications

Strap/Bracelet
■ Black large-scale crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching
■ 18K pink-gold standard buckle

Total gold weight
■ With standard buckle: 81.4 g (18K)

Movement
Automatic movement, self–winding ML 190 (Calendrier Rétrograde) and ML 191 (Double Rétrograde)
Vibration: 18,000 vibrations/h, 2.5 Hz
Power reserve: 52 hours
Jewels: 57 (ML 190), 74 (ML 191)
Adjustments: 5 positions after full winding and after 24 hours
Decorations:Vertical brushed and Grand Colimaçon, rhodium-plated

Functions
Calendrier Rétrograde (ML 190):
■ Hours and minutes indicated by central hands
■ Date indicated by retrograde hand at 10 o’clock
■ Small seconds hand at 6 o’clock
■ Power reserve hand at 2 o’clock
Double Rétrograde (ML 191):
■ Hours and minutes indicated by central hands
■ Date indicated by retrograde hand at 6 o’clock
■ 2nd time zone indicated by retrograde hand at 12 o’clock
■ Small seconds hand at 9 o’clock
■ Power reserve hand at 3 o’clock

Steel version Non Limited
Reference numbers
Calendrier Rétrograde: MP6508-SS001-130 (silver dial), MP6508-SS001-330 (black dial)
Double Rétrograde : MP6518-SS001-130 (silver dial), MP6518-SS001-330 (black dial)

Case
■ Stainless steel, Ø 43 mm, satin and polished finishing
■ Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
■ Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal
■ Water-resistant to 50 m/5 atm

Dial
■ Based on a solid 925 silver plate
■ Available in black or silver color, with sun brushed finishing
■ Diamond-cut applied hour markers, small second and power reserve indications

Hands and discs
■ Stamped hours and minutes hands with diamond-cut head in the pure tradition of hands making
■ Retrograde indications in contrast to the dial color for optimum legibility: rhodium colored on black dial, black gold color on silver dial
■ Rhodium-colored stick hand for power reserve and small second

Strap/bracelet
■ Black large-scale crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching

Buckle
■ Folding steel clasp with push-pieces
■ Satin and polished finish

Movement
Automatic movement, self-winding ML 190 (Calendrier Rétrograde) and ML 191 (Double Rétrograde)
Vibration:18,000 vibrations/h, 2.5 Hz
Power reserve:52 hours
jewels: 57 (ML 190) and 74 (ML 191)
Adjustments: 5 positions after full winding and after 24 hours
Decoration: Vertical brushed and Grand Colimaçon, rhodium-plated

Functions
Calendrier Rétrograde (ML 190):
■ Hours and minutes indicated by central hand
■ Date indicated by retrograde hand at 10 o’clock
■ Small seconds hand at 6 o’clock
■ Power reserve hand at 2 o’clock
Double Rétrograde (ML 191):
■ Hours and minutes indicated by central hand
■ Date indicated by retrograde hand at 6 o’clock
■ 2nd time zone indicated by retrograde hand at 12 o’clock
■ Small second hand at 9 o’clock
■ Power reserve hand at 3 o’clock

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