Monday, January 31, 2011

Richard Mille RM 026 Tourbillon

The new RM 026 Tourbillon from Richard Mille is a perfect combination of esoteric sensibility and technical horology and dedicated to those, who values a unique combination at the highest pinnacle of watch making with high quality jewelry. The design and inspiration of this new tourbillon are inspired by the eternal themes of nature, Gaia and the passage of time. Created in a limited edition of only 15 unique pieces, this beautiful timepiece comes in 18k white gold gem-set Tonneau case.

For the RM 026 Tourbillon, two serpents created in gold adorn its precious movement, writhing and searching within the tourbillon movement whilst simultaneously holding the tourbillon movement in place.
Admire the two guys who guard the complication, a ruby & diamond encrusted 18k white gold snake and an emerald & diamond encrusted 18k white gold snake with red coral tongue. But there are several other versions available of these coupled snakes, such as precious stones or semi-precious stones encrusted or engraved stones and even enameled bodies. It took many hours and extremely precise work to engrave by hand the scales of these two exceptional jewellery pieces. Each model created is a unique piece.
Serpents in mythology have complex roles that can be either good or evil. In connection with the positive properties of Black Onyx they however take on a protective role, representing the potent guardians of temples and other sacred places. Thus, they are natural guardians of treasures or sacred sites that are intimate and require protection.

The baseplate of the watch has been created of pure Black Onyx, a variety of crypto-crystalline quartz chalcedony composed of siliceous dioxide, (SiO₂). Onyx varieties with rectilinear black and white parallel stripes are actually a part of the agate family, whereas the fully black type is what one commonly calls true Black Onyx. This is a gemstone able to deflect and channel harmful energy towards the Earth, thus providing stability. Due to this ability, Black Onyx is considered a stone of protection against negative thoughts, as well being the stone of equilibrium and inspiration.
Keeping with the technical nature of all watches created by the brand, the RM 026 Tourbillon utilizes a newly developed power reserve indicator that makes use of a differential gearing system, directly connected to the winding barrel. Via a red line etched on its surface, the direct turning of the 48 hours power reserve barrel allows the wearer to easily note if the watch requires winding. Coupled with an additional security system, a torque limiting crown, prevents any chance of accidental overwinding, which could possibly cause damage to the winding stem or exert extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel. The caliber RM026, with 21 jewels and beating at 3Hz, measures 30.20 mm x 28.60 mm while its thickness is only of 4.97 mm.

In the world of horology, the case of Richard Mille watches is currently considered as one of the most difficult to manufacture. This tripartite tonneau-shaped case is fully curved, which enables the watch to be ergonomic and comfortable but is time consuming during its production and requires a high level of quality control. These front and rear curves are part of Richard Mille watch cases whatever their shape (tonneau, round, rectangular). They demand ultimate precision and no stress in the metal. The bezel side and the case back have to be perfectly assembled in the case middle with no constraint, to prevent the sapphires from any damage. These manufacturing specifications required one year of research and development.

The specific tonneau shape of the RM 026 requires 47 stamping operations including 21 for the forming. Tooling takes 4 hours and the RM 026 is obtained after 255 milling operations. The finishing process requires a full day for grinding, glazing and polishing. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters.

An elegant and mysterious timepiece that unites the powers of Nature with the ingenuity of Fine Watchmaking, the RM 026 Tourbillon represents the world of emotions behind Richard Mille’s thorough approach to Timekeeping.

Technical details
Tonneau case - Limited edition: 15 unique pieces, 18k white gold gem-set case.
Dimensions: 45 mm x 39.70 mm x 12,60 mm.

Movement
- CALIBER RM026: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve, inspired by the RM 019.
- Power reserve: Circa 48 hours. This function is displayed using a newly designed differential power reserve system, with a printed red line on a moving disc located between 10 and 11 o’clock.
- Movement dimensions: 30.20 mm x 28.60 mm
- Thickness: 4.97 mm
- Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
- Balance wheel diameter: 9.12 mm
- Number of jewels: 21
- Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 10 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Balance spring: Elinvar by NIVAROX
- Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
- Stone setting in white gold
- Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless- antimagnetic- suitable for tempering

Special features
- Black onyx base plate: Onyx is a variety of cryptocrystalline quartz chalcedony composed of silicium dioxide, (SiO2). The rectilinear black and white parallel stripes version is part of the agate types. The fully black type is called Black Onyx, and is said to be able to deflect harmful energy down to the earth, while providing stability. For this reason, Black Onyx is considered as a charm-stone against spells. Black Onyx also symbolizes equilibrium and inspiration.

- Bridges made of Titanium: These components in grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.

- Variable inertia: The free-sprung balance provides better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly. It also guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time.

- Ceramic end stone for the tourbillon cage: This reflects a technical and long-term view towards the elimination of wear phenomena, resulting in improved technical tribology.

- Torque limiting crown: This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or putting extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel. The crown is set with precious stones or semi-precious stones depending on the version.

- Barrel pawl with progressive recoil: This device permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the winding start. It is also helpful in the distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.

Case
In the world of horology, the case of Richard Mille watches is currently considered as the most difficult to manufacture. This tripartite tonneau-shaped case is fully curved, which enables the watch to be ergonomic and comfortable but is time consuming during its production and requires a high level of quality control. These front and back curves are part of the Richard Mille watch case regardless of their shapes (tonneau, round, rectangular). They demand ultimate precision and no stress in the metal.

The bezel side and the case back have to be perfectly assembled in the case middle with no constraints, to prevent the sapphires from any damage. These manufacturing specifications required one year of research and development.

The specific tonneau shape of the RM 026 requires 47 stamping operations including 21 for the forming. Tooling takes 4 hours and the RM 026 is obtained after 255 milling operations. The finishing process requires a full day for grinding, glazing and polishing. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. On certain models of the RM 026, the bezel, middle case and back are set with precious stones following the harmony of the two coupled snakes embracing the movement.

Interior flanges
- Upper flange in black carbon fiber, with the hours index set with diamonds.
- Lower flange in black carbon fiber. with the minutes index in white color.

Crystal
Bezel side: In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: 1.20 mm
Case back: In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm

Finishing

Movement
- Anglage and polishing by hand (excluding Onyx and black treated parts)
- Locking sections hand polished
- Sapphire blasted milled sections
- Lapped and polished contact points
- Burnished pivots
- PVD treatment (excluding Onyx)

Steel parts
- Sapphire blasted surfaces
- Satin finished surfaces
- Anglage and polishing by hand
- Burnished sections

Gear wheels
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
- Circular finished faces
- Surface treatment or rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
- Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance

Richard Mille RM 029 Automatic with Oversize Date

The new automatic RM 029 from Swiss watch manufacture Richard mille is equipped with the latest skeletonized caliber RMAS7 with oversize date indication. The skeletonization process of this novel caliber took more than 10 months to finalize, as there could be no compromise in the movement’s strength or ability to withstand shocks.

Much attention was given to testing numerous versions of the skeletonized titanium baseplate before the final pattern of cutaways was chosen. Within its case dimensions of 48 mm x 39.70 mm x 12.60 mm beats an automatic movement with oversize date mechanism inspired by the RM 011 and a rotor with variable geometry.
This exclusive Richard Mille design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level within sports or leisure environments. The arms of the rotor are in grade 2 titanium with specific adjustable ribs made of 18k white gold; the weight segment along the outer edge is white gold, with the rotor’s ball bearings made from a special and highly durable ceramic material.

The baseplate, bridges and balance-cock are made of grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® treatment. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The power reserve bridge is black PVD treated. Special attention to the elimination of problems caused by external shock is accentuated by the balance wheel being given Incabloc protection on both dial and movement side. In its entirety, the caliber RMAS7, with 32 jewels and beating at 4Hz, was specially manufactured to offer exceptional timekeeping properties. It has a free sprung balance with variable inertia. This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time.
The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

The design and execution of the entire watch bears witness to a complete conceptual approach regarding the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specification, in the manner of the analytical engineering methods used in the design of Formula 1 racing cars where the chassis and the engine are developed in complete harmony.

For example, a casing ring is no longer used and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws. Features such as these are evidence of uncompromising workmanship. The case requires 47 stamping operations to obtain its final design. Machining takes more than 4 hours and 255 milling operations, the finishing work requires a full day. Then each case has to undergo an accurate quality control during 45 minutes. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by three Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Cutting edge technology combined with elegance, exceptional lines, useful functionality and unmistakable personality: the RM 029 automatic typifies Richard Mille’s innovative design with the rotor and its variable inertia, whilst introducing new devices such as the oversize date.
Technical details
Model: Richard Mille RM 029 Automatic With Oversize Date
Tonneau case - available in titanium, 18k white gold or red gold.
Dimensions: 48 mm x 39.70 mm x 12.60 mm.

Movement
- CALIBER RMAS7: skeletonized automatic movement with hours, minutes, seconds, oversize date and adjustable rotor geometry.
- Power reserve: Circa 55 hours.
- Oversize date display: Semi-instantaneous, placed in a horizontal aperture at 4 o’clock.
- Dimensions of movement: 30.25 mm x 28.45 mm
- Thickness: 5.83 mm
- Number of jewels: 32
- Barrel arbor – in 20AP steel
- Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Balance spring: Elinvar
- Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
- Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
- Stem with three positions: manual winding, time setting, date adjustment

- Free sprung balance balance with variable inertia: This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 adjustable small weights located directly on the balance.

- Crown:In grade 5 micro-blasted titanium, with double seal O-ring and collar in Alcryn.

- Rotor with variable geometry
- Arm in grade 2 titanium
- Flange in grade 2 titanium
- 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws
- Ribs in 18k white gold, high palladium content
- Weight segment in white gold
- Ceramic ball bearings
- Unidirectional; anti-clockwise winding direction

This exclusive RICHARD MILLE design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level within sports or leisure environments. By adjusting the six positional setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified, either speeding up the winding process in the case of minimal arm and hand movements, or slowing it down when intensive activity sports are pursued.

Double barrel system: The double barrel system contributes to the torque stability improvement over a longer period. This is achieved by using more rotations of the barrel, thereby reducing pressure and wear on the teeth, bearings and pivots, providing improved long-term performance.

Bottom plate, bridges and balance cock made of titanium: These components in grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® treatment. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The power reserve bridge is black PVD treated. The skeletonized baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements.

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

Case
The design and execution of the entire watch bears witness to a complete conceptual approach regarding the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specification, in the manner of the analytical engineering methods used in the design of Formula 1 racing cars where the chassis and the engine are developed in complete harmony. For example, a casing ring is no longer used and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws. Features such as these are evidence of uncompromising workmanship.

The case of the RM 029 requires 47 swaging operations including 21 striking, 255 milling operations. The machining lasts 4 hours. Concerning the finishing work, 1 full day is required. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by three Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Spile screws in grade 5 titanium permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

Interior flanges(upper and lower): In carbon fiber, with index points filled with approved luminous material. Minute flange in black carbon fiber.

Dial
In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (both sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves.

Crystal
Bezel side: In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: 1.20 mm
Case back: In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm

Finishing

Movement
- Bottom plate and bridges in hand-ground, wet sandblasted grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® treatment
- Burnished pivots
- Pinions with undercuts
- Sandblasted and rhodium-plated, beveled wheels (before cutting)
- Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance

Steel parts
- Sapphire blasted and hand drawn surfaces
- Screw slot and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip

Richard Mille RM 030 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor

The Richard Mille RM 030 automatic watch is equipped with the manufacture's latest caliber RMAR1,a new generation movement itself represents a further advancement in the world of automatic wristwatch design.

The winding of an automatic wristwatch is accomplished by a small turning rotor, silently driven as a result of the physical movements of the wearer. These rotations of the rotor provide energy to the winding barrel, which reaches its optimal point once it is fully wound. After this point, overwinding can easily occur and needs to be avoided. This is traditionally achieved through the use of a sliding flange that allows the spring to slip, thus avoiding the movement becoming overwound. However, this traditional system allows the build-up of harmful debris inside the winding barrel as the flange releases the excess energy of overwinding during longer periods, especially when a person is particularly active. This in turn can severely affect chronometric results.

To avoid such adverse conditions, Richard Mille took four years to develop the concept and the design of a rotor that declutches automatically. With this system, the winding barrel is automatically disconnected from the rotor’s winding mechanism at the moment when the spring is fully wound. Additionally, this new mechanism is linked to the power reserve indicator to provide an optimal winding control. This allows both the movement and the oscillator to work with the best ratio of constant torque/power to provide the best chronometric performance.

The declutchable rotor works as follow: when the power reserve reaches 50 hours, the rotor is declutched automatically thanks to a specially developed gear system. As a result, the rotor is disengaged from winding the barrel. Conversely, when the power reserve decreases to 40 hours, the rotor is automatically clutched and the watch starts the winding phase until the indicator reaches 50 hours. It is possible to check theses phases thanks to the rewinding indicator located at 12 o’clock. It keeps the user informed whether the rotor is operating in winding phase (on) or is disengaged (off). Typical of Richard Mille, the declutchable rotor is a major innovation with its conception and miniaturization which represents an extraordinary technical challenge.
< The case of RM 030 (50mm x 42.70mm x 13.95 mm) encloses a rotor with variable geometry that allows the rewinding speed of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level within sports or leisure environments, ceramic ball bearings, a double barrel system for ideal torque stability and a bottom plate, bridges and balance cock of grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® treatment. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness, which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.

The baseplate and all titanium parts have been subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirement. The caliber RMAR1, with 40 jewels and beating at 4Hz, has a free sprung balance with variable inertia. This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

The case of the RM 030 requires 86 swaging operations including 49 striking, before cutting and milling phases for the three main components (bezel, middle case, back). Machining requires 20 hours for the settings and it takes 30 hours for a kit programming.

The empty case requires more than 255 tooling operations and more than 5 hours of glazing and polishing for the final phase. The complex shape of the case is obtained thanks to a complex 5 axis machine. For each case, the name “Richard Mille” engraved on the back of the case situated on the inside curve requires 45 minutes. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
Technical details
Model : Richard Mille RM 030 Automatic With Declutchable Rotor
Tonneau case - available in titanium, 18k white gold or red gold.

Movement
- CALIBER RMAR1: skeletonized automatic movement with hours, minutes, central second, date, power reserve, winding indicator and adjustable rotor geometry.
- Dimensions of movement: 30.25 mm x 28.45 mm
- Thickness: 5.59 mm
- Number of jewels: 40
- Barrel arbor – in 20AP steel
- Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg cm2, angle of lift 53º
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Balance spring: Elinvar
- Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
- Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
- Stem with three positions: manual winding, time setting, date adjustment
- Power reserve: Circa 55 hours.The power reserve indicator is located at 9 o’clock.

Special features of CALIBER RMAR1
- Decluchable Rotor: The winding of an automatic wristwatch is accomplished by a small turning rotor, silently driven as a result of the physical movements of the wearer. These rotations of the rotor provide energy to the winding barrel, which reaches its optimal point once it is fully wound. After this point, overwinding can easily occur and needs to be avoided. This is traditionally achieved through the use of a sliding flange that allows the spring to slip, thus avoiding the movement becoming overwound.

However, this traditional system allows the build-up of harmful debris inside the winding barrel as the flange releases the excess energy of overwinding during longer periods, especially when a person is particularly active. This in turn can severely affect chronometric results. To avoid such adverse conditions, Richard Mille took 4 years to develop the concept and design of a rotor that declutches automatically. With this system, the winding barrel is automatically disconnected from the rotor’s winding mechanism at the moment when the spring is fully wound. Additionally, this new mechanism is linked to the power reserve indicator to provide an optimal winding control. This allows both the movement and the oscillator to work with the best ratio of constant torque/power to provide the best chronometric performance.

Functioning: When the power reserve reaches 50 hours, the rotor is declutched automatically thanks to a specially developed gear system. As a result, the rotor is disengaged from winding the barrel. Conversely, when the power reserve decreases to 40 hours, the rotor is automatically clutched and the watch starts the winding phase until the indicator reaches 50 hours. It is possible to check theses phases thanks to the rewinding indicator located at 12 o’clock. It keeps the user informed whether the rotor is operating in winding phase (on) or is disengaged (off).

Date display: Semi-instantaneous, placed in a vertical aperture at 7 o’clock. The calendar disc of sapphire crystal is treated with non-reflective coating on both sides.

Free sprung balance with variable inertia: This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

Torque limiting crown in titanium: This security system prevents accidental overwinding of the watch, the result of which can cause damage to the winding stem or extreme pressure on the barrel spring.

Rotor with variable geometry
- Arm in grade 2 titanium
- Flange in grade 2 titanium
- 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws
- Ribs in 18k white gold, high palladium content
- Weight segment in white gold
- Ceramic ball bearing
- Unidirectional; anti-clockwise winding direction

This exclusive Richard Mille design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level within sports or leisure environments. By adjusting the six positional setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified, either speeding up the winding process in the case of minimal arm and hand movements, or slowing it down when high activity sports are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized and personalized to the owner’s lifestyle.

Double barrel system: The double barrel system helps improve torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by utilizing more turns of the barrel, thereby reducing pressure and wear on the teeth, bearings and pivots, resulting in improved long-term performance.

Bottom plate, bridges and balance cock made of titanium: These components are in grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® treatment. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness, which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonized baseplate was subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements.

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

CASE
The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specification, in the manner of the analytical engineering methods used in the design of Formula 1 racing cars where the chassis and the engine are developed in complete harmony.

For example, a casing ring is no longer used and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws. Features such as these are evidence of uncompromising workmanship. The case of the RM 030 requires 86 swaging operations including 49 striking, before cutting and milling phases for the three main components (bezel, middle case, back). Machining requires 20 hours for the settings and it takes 30 hours for a kit programming.

The empty case requires more than 255 tooling operations and more than 5 hours of glazing and polishing for the final phase. The complex shape of the case is obtained thanks to a 5 axis machine. For each case, the name “Richard Mille” engraved on the back of the case situated on the inside curve requires 45 hours. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Spline screws in grade 5 titanium permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

Interior flanges(upper and lower): In carbon fiber, with index points filled with approved luminous material. Minute flange in black carbon fiber.

Dial
In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (both sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves.

Crystal
Bezel side: In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: 1.50 mm
Case back: In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1.20 mm and outer edges 2.04 mm

Finishing

Movement
- Bottom plate and bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, Titalyt® treated
- Barrel Bridges PVD coated
- Burnished pivots
- Pinions with undercuts
- Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting)
- Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance

Steel parts
- Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces
- Screw slots and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip

Richard Mille RM 033 Extra Flat Automatic

An extra flat movement is something most subtle and elegant in the world of horology since the expertise of the watchmaker resides in achieving something almost invisible. The constraints of producing this model are made even more challenging given the limited space available.

In the case of the automatic extra flat wristwatch the RM 033, one of its characteristic lies in the placement of the RMXP1 caliber’s automatic micro rotor to the side rather than the center of the movement, thus saving precious millimeters in total height. As a result, this movement has a diameter of 33.00 mm while its thickness is only of 2.60 mm.
To provide perfect weight distribution for this decentral rotor to function optimally, it has been designed to wind bi-directionally and is manufactured from solid Platinum, allowing for efficient winding as well as compact dimensions of the extra flat skeletonized movement.

The caliber RMXP1, with 29 jewels and beating at 3Hz, has a free sprung balance with variable inertia. This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

For the creation of the RMXP1 caliber, the bottom plate bridges and balance cock are made of titanium. The manufacturing of these components in grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® treatment for the bottom plate and black PVD coating for the bridges allows the entire ultra thin assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train as well as stability of the movement. The baseplate and all titanium parts have been subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements. The round case design of the RM 033 measures 45.70 mm x a mere 6.30 mm in thickness. The curving case back has become the trademark of the entire Richard Mille collection. This tripartite case with a complete integration of the lugs into the case system is water resistant to 30 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. It is assembled with 16 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
Many details form the signature of this simple and elegant watch, such as the free sprung balance with variable inertia, a power reserve of 42 hours, the extensive use of spline screws throughout the movement, the rigorous design and execution of the case, the ceramic crown sealed with double seal O-rings.

Technical details
Model: Richard Mille RM 033 Extra Flat Automatic
- Round case - available in titanium, 18k white gold or red gold.

Movement
- CALIBER RMXP1: skeletonized automatic winding movement with hours, minutes and off-center monoblock platinum rotor. Diameter: 45.70 mm x 6.30 mm.
- Power reserve: Circa 42 hours.
- Diameter of the movement: 33.00 mm
- Thickness: 2.60 mm
- Number of jewels: 29
- Barrel arbor – in 20AP steel
- Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 5.75 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
- Balance spring: Nivaflex
- Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)

- Monoblock Micro rotor: Following on from the rotor with variable geometry that contributed to the success of Richard Mille’s automatic calibers, a new winding device is introduced in the RM 033. By using a platinum, decentrally positioned micro rotor, the barrel can be efficiently wound and an extra flat skeletonized movement can be achieved.

- Free sprung balance with variable inertia: This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly. Hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 adjustable small weights located directly on the balance.

- Bottom plate, Bridges and Balance cock made of titanium: The manufacturing of these components in grade 5 titanium - bottom plate with Titalyt® coating and bridges with PVD coating, allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness that is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonized baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements.

- Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

Case
It retains the same characteristics and attention to detail in case design with a vast number of stamping and machining operations required for this round case with a total height just a mere 6.30 mm. The design and execution of this watchcase typifies the complete conceptual approach to all parts of the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specification. For example, a casing ring is no longer used and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws. The tripartite case is assembled with 16 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel and complemented by the additional integration of the lugs into the case’s torque screw system. The tripartite case is water resistant to 30 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals.

- Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the case: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

- Interior flanges: In carbon fiber, with hour index points filled with approved luminous material. Minute flange in black carbon fiber.

Dial
- In sapphire (thickness: 0.30 mm) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).

Crystal
- Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).
- Thickness: 1.00 mm
- Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides)
- Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and at outer edges 1.53 mm

Crown
- In ceramic, with double seal O-ring and detailing in titanium, 18k red or white gold.

Finishing

Movement
- Bottom plate in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, Titalyt® treated
- Bridges wet sandblasted, top surface polished by hand, grade 5 titanium PVD treated
- Locking sections hand polished
- Burnished pivots
- Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side
- Pinions with undercuts
- Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting the teeth)

Gear wheels
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
- Circular-smoothed faces
- Polished angles
- Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
- Minimum manual correction to the wheels undertaken in order to preserve geometry and performance

Steel parts
- microblasted and hand-drawn surfaces
- sapphire blasted surfaces
- anglage and polishing by hand

Profile turning
- lapped and polished ends
- burnished pivots

Richard Mille RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson Limited Edition

Luxury watch maker Richard Mille announces its new brand ambassador Bubba Watson,the famous American golfer who will join sporting legends like Felipe Massa and Rafael Nadal to endorse the Swiss watch manufacture. This golfer stands out from the crowd with his unique physique and personality and he will wear the new tourbillion RM 038 in all future golf tournaments. Golf is domain which portrays high performance and precision like Formula 1 racing and tennis, a perfect place for watch makers like Richard Mille who is specialized in highly professional and accurate timepieces.

Bubba Watson, 32 years old, is making his mark as one of the best players of his generation. Born in Florida, he is fully self-taught and has never had a golf lesson. At a height of 1,91 meters and weighing 82 kilos, he is one of the most awesome-looking of the golfing circuit. He has one of the most powerful drives and has consistently been the longest hitter on the PGA tour since 2006. 2010 also represented a hallmark in his career as in June he won his 1st USPGA Tour event. Thanks to his excellent results, Bubba obtained a place in this year’s Ryder Cup in the American team. 2011 is looking to be a very promising year for Bubba Watson after an exceptional 2010.

Apart from being a big hitter, Bubba Watson is also one of the rare left handed players on the golfing circuit who likes to wear bracelets on his wrists when playing. A fantastic situation for Richard Mille who has undertaken the development of a specific tourbillon watch for the golfer. In 2011 he will wear a watch, the RM038, in real world conditions to test the technology and its shock resistance.
This time, Richard Mille decided to design and manufacture an innovative Tourbillon Watch able to work in Golf’s specific conditions with 3 obsessions: lightness, extreme shock resistance and comfort. The case, (48mm x 39.70mm x 12.80mm), encloses the caliber RM038, with 19 jewels and beating at 3Hz, has its bottom plate, bridges and balance cock made of grade 5 titanium. This allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonized baseplate was subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements.

The RM 038 tourbillon caliber has a fast rotating barrel which provides significant decrease of periodic internal mainspring adhesion; which increases performance. Moreover it provides an excellent mainspring delta curve with ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio. Besides a central involute profile of the winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promote effective rotary motion and allows for compensation of possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus insuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.

The RM 038 case is made of an extremely rugged and light alloy called Magnesium Aluminium AZ91. This alloy is composed of magnesium 90% and aluminium 8.9%. Magnesium density is of 1, 74 g/cm3, which means it is one of the lightest metal used for construction. After a long and delicate machining phase, this alloy is given an electro-plasma oxidation treatment named Titalyt II®. The whitish color of the case is due to this treatment: it is a crystalline oxide ceramic with a high ratio of high resistant composites such as MgAl2O4 spinels. This improves both hardness and scratch resistance of this alloy, and also its wear resistance and corrosion resistance. This treatment applied to Magnesium-Aluminium is biocompatible. It is used in aerospace, automotive industries and medical sector.

The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. The RM 038 is the new Richard Mille Tourbillon designed for golfers and sportsmen who appreciate haute horlogerie, cased into high-tech materials for extreme conditions.

Technical details
Model: Richard Mille RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson . Tonneau case – numbered Limited Edition- available in Magnesium-Aluminium alloy AZ91.

Movement
- CALIBER RM038 : manual winding tourbillon with hours and minutes.
- Dimensions: 48 mm x 39.70 mm x 12.80 mm.
- Power reserve: 48 hours.
- Dimensions of movement: 30.60 mm x 29.37 mm
- Thickness: 7.55 mm
- Tourbillon diameter: 10.90 mm
- Balance diameter: 9.12 mm
- Number of jewels: 19
- Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
- Balance spring: Elinvar by NIVAROX
- Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR de KE 160 B28
- Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr13 +S) with following characteristics: stainless, antimagnetic, suitable for tempering.

- Variable Inertia, Free sprung balance: The free-sprung balance provides better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly. It also guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time.

- Fast rotating barrel: 6 hours per revolution instead of 7,
This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
- The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
- Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
- Barrel Pawl with progressive recoil: This device permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the winding start.
It is also helpful in the distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.

- Winding Barrel teeth and third wheel pinion with central involute profile: The central involute profile of the winding barrel teeth and pinion provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promotes effective rotary motion and allows for compensation of possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus insuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.

- Bottom plate and bridges made of titanium: The manufacturing of these components in grade 5 titanium allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonized baseplate was subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements.

- Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

Case
The RM 038 case is made of an extremely rugged and light alloy called Magnesium Aluminium classified as AZ91. This alloy is composed of magnesium 90% and aluminium 8.9%. Magnesium density is of 1,74 g/cm3, which means it is one of the lightest metals used for construction. After a long and delicate machining phase, this alloy is given an electro-plasma oxidation treatment named Titalyt II®. This treatment is a cristalline oxide ceramic with a high ratio of high resistant composites such as MgAl2O4 spinels. This improves both hardness and scratch resistance of this alloy, and also its wear and corrosion resistance. This treatment applied to Magnesium Aluminium is biocompatible. It is used in aerospace and automotive industries and the medical sector.

The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the case: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Interior flange: Minute flange in white carbon fiber.

Crystal
- Bezel side: In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
- Thickness: 1.20 mm
- Case back: In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
- Thickness: at the center 1 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm

Finishing

Movement
- Baseplate and bridges in micro-blasted grade 5 titanium
- Anglage and polishing by hand
- Sapphire blasted milled sections
- Straight line grain finish of the upper surfaces
- Polished sinks

Steel parts
- Sapphire blasted surfaces
- Satin finished surfaces
- Anglage and polishing by hand
- Straight line grain finish of the upper surfaces
- Straight line grain finish of the upper surfaces
- Polished sinks

Profile turning
- Lapped and polished ends
- Burnished pivots

Gear wheels
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
- Circular finished faces
- Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
- Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Hershal Wiggins Designs : Jewellery & Watches Made in Argentium Sterling Silver

Hershal Wiggins is a highly talented jewellery and watch maker from Philadelphia, USA. Hershal Wiggins is famous for his Argentium silver faced watches and jewellery. All of Hershal Wiggins Designs silver work is composed of Argentium 970-Pure Silver with chains of made of Argentium 925 and Fine Silver.

Argentium Sterling Silver is a technologically advanced silver alloy containing the same silver content as traditional sterling silver. Traditional Sterling Silver is an alloy composed of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. In the 1990's, scientists discovered that if they replaced some of the traditional copper with Germanium, the resulting sterling silver alloy had distinctly advantageous properties.

Hershal Wiggins holds many academic qualifications and extensive practical knowledge in Jewelry and jewelry Design, Ancient Jewelry Technique (Byzantine), Enameling and Granulation, Photography and Film, and textiles.He was studied at prestigious institutes like Philadelphia University of the Art and Parson School of Design and had worked along with most elite artists and jewelers like Michael Bondanza, Gabriel Sanchez, Nathan Levy, Stuart Moore, Jane Bohan, Biba Schultz and Mario Salvucci.

His areas of interest include: Cold Joining, hot joining techniques, bending and shaping, box making, Hollowware, tableware, fabrication and alloying of gold, alloying of silver, specializing in Argentium sterling silver, forging, dapping, minor casting, reticulation, etching, appliqué, granulation, filigree, Kum Boo, Mokume’ Gane, inlay, stone setting, hinges, handmade chain making and modeling making. As well as the basics of sanding, soldering cleaning up casting and polishing and all aspects on gold ( 14k to 24), silver (argentium, fine and sterling) ,palladium and platinum fabrication.


Argentium silver faced watch by Hershal Wiggins

Hershal Wiggins is an expert in watch making (quartz, mechanical, and chronographic) and clock making (quartz and mechanical). He uses to run production of the watch making department of Wings watches in New York. All Hershal Wiggins watches are handmade with Swiss made ETA movement.

In 2009, Hershal Wiggins introduced a timepiece named Keum-Boo Watch. Keum-Boo is a difficult technique of fusing pure gold onto Argentium (low-tarnish) Sterling Silver. The watch is a combination of 24 Karat pure gold and Argentium Sterling Silver and entirely handmade from case to texturing.

Hershal Wiggins is currently working on his first Tourbillon watch movement which is expected to complete by the end of the year. Hershal Wiggins Designs is a small company and at present all watches are completed by himself only.

Official website : http://hershalwigginsdesigns.com

NORD ZEITMASCHINE VARIOCURVE

After studying the faces of many mechanical clocks and watches, Daniel Nebel, founder of the NORD ZEITMASCHINE watch brand observed that the clocks with central hands, peripheral counters, retrograde displays, rotating systems etc., the indicating element (hand, disc, cage, etc.) always rotates around a fixed axis. Due to this fact, the radius of the indicating element always remains constant. In most cases, this constant radius completes a full rotation or, in the case of retrograde displays, only a segment of e.g. 120°.

Daniel Nebel was looking for another form of display that involved no fixed centre of rotation. At first he was looking at levers and lever systems to solve the problem, but found no solution. Either the displayed area of the time was too small or the path of the hand intersected or, in another construction, the optical appearance of the path of the hand was unfavourable. Only after countless simulated constructions, Daniel Nebel reached the solution with the two counter-rotating eccentric cams. After determining the correct positions of the fulcrums and the lengths of the levers, the resulting path that the hands follow was perfect for him.
He chose the position of the eccentric cams so that the maximum displacement (maximum distance per minute) occurs on the hour. As a minor drawback it then turned out that in the range of ¼ before and ¼ past the full hour, the hand only travelled a small distance per minute as a result of the "dead point" of the eccentric cams. Actually, one could easily have lived with the fact that during this low-displacement period, visibility was not that great.
Daniel Nebel was not quite satisfied and looked for a solution and constructed for this area, two segment displays that "run counter" to the hands and thus improve visibility. Result: During the 60 minutes, the minute hand moves at different speeds and travels along a path with varying curves, and the spectacular timepiece VARIOCURVE was born.



Technical details

Movement
NORD N2
25 jewels and 5 integrated precision micro-ball bearings.
Sliding parts as the minute hand from the material ARCAP.
Symmetrical 360° winding rotor with integrated winding weights,which are not visible by looking through the botttom.
28800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve to 42 h
Basic ETA 2824

Functions
Minutes, VARIOCURVE ,double minute segment display, hours decentralized, date.

Case
Stainless steel
Bezel and sappire crystal back, 7-times screwed
Crown with double o-ring seals
Screwed strap bars
Water resistant: 10 ATM (100 meters)

Dimensions:
Diameter : 43,6 mm
Height : 15,8 mm
Weight : 110 Gramm (without strap)

Glasses:
Top: sapphire crystal curved / flat 1,5 mm to 2,5 mm
Bottom : sapphire crystal flat 1,8 mm

Strap
Calf leather strap, wide 22mm

Model Variations
VARIOCURVE V1: Mechanical parts coated, white rhodium / blackgold
VARIOCURVE V2: Mechanical parts coated, white rhodium / pinkgold
VARIOCURVE V3: Mechanical parts coated, white rhodium / yellowgold

Edition
VARIOCURVE V1: Limited to 97 pieces, from N° 1 to N° 97
VARIOCURVE V2: Limited to 97 pieces, from N° 1 to N° 97
VARIOCURVE V3: Limited to 97 pieces, from N° 1 to N° 97

NORD ZEITMASCHINE Watches : Introduction

NORD ZEITMASCHINE (NORTH TIMEMACHINE) is an independent Swiss watch brand founded by watch maker Daniel Nebel. NORD stands both for the initials of its founder's name, Nebel, Daniel. The various elements and design principles of NORD ZEITMASCHINE watches are taken from machine manufacturing.

Born in 1971, at the northern end of the arc of the Jura in northern Switzerland, Daniel Nebel, started his professional career with a machine technician’s apprenticeship from 1988 to 1992. After completing the apprenticeship he worked for several years in prototype machine manufacture and tool making. In 1995, he started studying and manufacturing wristwatches in parallel and created his first watch in 1997. In the subsequent years, Daniel Nebel constantly expanded his knowledge of the manufacture of mechanical watches and also constantly expanded his workshop.

Today, a NORD ZEITMASCHINE watch has been created in-house thanks to constant progress in the areas of development, design and manufacture. The independence that the brand has achieved is a major advantage to a watch manufacturer like NORD ZEITMASCHINE, who only manufactures a few watches per year.

The production of components is, besides development and design, the most labour intensive part of Daniel Nebel's work on everything to do with watches. At the start Daniel Nebel manufactured parts such as cases, dials, crowns, pushers, screws and discs himself. Over the years he added movement plates, hands, shafts, wheels, bridges, eccentrics and other parts. Polishing, engraving, ornamentation, stamping and gold plating of the individual parts is another important part of his work before the final assembling of a watch. Today the depth of Daniel Nebel's manufacturing skills makes it possible for him to produce complex watches independently.

Address
NORD ZEITMASCHINE
Daniel Nebel,
Grienstrasse 70,
\4227 Büsserach,
Switzerland
Official website: www.nord-zeitmaschine.ch

SETTE Watches : Introduction

SETTE is an İstanbul (Turkey) based chic fashion watch brand specialized in ladies’ and gent’s wristwatches, silver accessories and stainless steel jewellery. All watches by SETTE incorporate quality materials, such as 316 L steel, sapphire and crystal glass and Swiss Ronda or Japan Miyato movements, Italian leather or ceramic bands, and water-resistant ratings of 30-100meters.

Official website : www.settewatches.com.tr

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Tourbillon with gold Bridge (ref. 99535) 220th anniversary Edition

This year, Swiss watch manufacture Girard-Perregaux is celebrating its 220th anniversary (1791-2011). To mark this occasion, Girard Perregaux's Haute Horlogerie collection will be enhanced by a Tourbillon featuring gold Bridge.

It was in the beginning of the 19th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the Tourbillon, an ingenious device was created to compensate for the rate errors caused by the Earth's gravity when the watch was in a vertical position. In the mid-19th century, this complication was refined by the watchmaker Constant Girard-Perregaux. Long years of research enabled him to bring a completely innovative concept to fruition: it ensured the movement was no longer simply a technical and functional component, but a design element in its own right. His masterwork, a Tourbillon movement, featured three parallel bridges under which the barrel, centre wheel and Tourbillon were aligned. Each component in his timepieces was designed to an exceptionally high standard of quality. In 1889, he received the ultimate accolade: Girard-Perregaux won a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition for his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges.

To mark the 220th anniversary of the Brand, Girard-Perregaux's Haute Horlogerie collection will be enhanced by a model inspired by its history and this majestic complication: the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Tourbillon with gold Bridge, expressing the essence of watchmaking tradition, available in an edition of 50 individually numbered pieces.



Design of Girard-Perregaux 1966 Tourbillon with gold Bridge is sober and elegant like its illustrious predecessors. The ‘Breguet’ Arabic numerals painted on the silvered dial, as well as the blued steel leaf-shaped hands, are both clear references to a time when only pocket watches existed.



The clean lines of its 40-millimetre case disguise a sophisticated design and production process. Its curvature and lugs have been carefully fashioned to sit perfectly on the wrist. Designed in the Manufacture's workshops, it has undergone meticulous finishing operations to reveal the full brilliance of the pink gold. The case-back, closed by 6 screws, is hand-engraved to evoke the domes of Girard-Perregaux's tourbillons dating from the 19th century. Each piece bears its own individual number, also engraved by hand in keeping with the Brand's tradition.



The case houses a Girard-Perregaux 9610 movement comprising 224 components, the refined decoration and architecture of which are also inspired by 19th century pocket tourbillons.

The tourbillon bridge of the new Girard-Perregaux 1966 Tourbillon has an unusual shape: known as ‘bassiné’, the two arms of the bridge are rounded off. The rounding off process consists of filing the ends of the arms to make them perfectly uniform, giving them a semi-cylindrical shape while retaining the demarcation of the centre and the heels. To finish the operation, the craftsmen use stones, buffs, boxwood and diamond pastes to smooth them to a perfectly rounded finish. The slightest imperfection can be immediately detected by the naked eye. This craftsmanship, which requires the highest level of dexterity and concentration, is a worthy heritage of the pocket Tourbillons manufactured by Constant Girard-Perregaux in the 19th century.

The delicate Tourbillon also demands extreme attention to detail: incredible dexterity is required to assemble its 72 components, all of which fit into a diameter of just one centimetre. It weighs 0.3 gram - about the same as a swan's feather. Accompanying it is a self-winding system patented by the Manufacture: a small-diameter platinum oscillating weight is housed in the space below and around the barrel. This elegant design leaves the movement's dimensions and architecture intact.

Technical details
Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Tourbillon with gold Bridge (ref. 99535)

Movement
Girard-Perregaux Movement 9610
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 28.60 mm, Height: 6.88 mm
Number of components:Complete movement: 224 components
Tourbillon cage: 72 components, 0.3 g
Jewelling:31 jewels
Power reserve:Minimum 48 hours
Barrel: Circular-grained cover
Self-winding: Micro-rotor mounted on barrel staff crafted in platinum, patented by Girard-Perregaux
Balance: Free-sprung with gold adjustment screws (diameter 8.35 mm), lift angle 52°
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Philips terminal coil – Breguet hairspring
Main plate: Rhodium-plated, circular-grained, polished corners, circular-grained and bevelled recesses
Tourbillon bridge: Gold "bassiné" bridge, hand-polished (inspection under 10x magnifier), polished corners, satin-finished rims
Gear trains: Involute gear profile

Tourbillon
- One rotation per minute
- Upper and lower cages bevelled and polished
- Cage balanced with gold adjustment screws
- Escapement bridges and pallet bridge bevelled and polished

Screws: Bevelled and black-polished
Steel parts: Drawn out and bevelled
Display: Hours and minutes, Small seconds on the Tourbillon

Case
Case materials and finishes:Pink gold with anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: closed by 6 screws, hand-engraved, Hand-engraved individual number
Case dimensions:Diameter: 40 mm, Height: 10.90 mm
Case water resistance:30 metres
Crown:Gold with engraved GP logo
Hands:Hour and minute, in blued steel

Strap & Buckle
Strap: Full grain black alligator
Buckle: Pin, gold, with engraved GP logo

Edition
Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces

Rebellion REB-5 Tourbillon Black Diamond, Unique Piece

The REB-5 Tourbillon Full Diamond, unique diamond set version of Rebellion 's REB-5 Tourbillon was a perfect example of the marriage between complexity of high horology and beauty of high jewellery art work. Now Rebellion presents a sibling, REB-5 Tourbillon Black Diamond which follows the same tradition as the Full Diamond model. Rebellion Timepieces, along with the setting workshop Bunter SA succeeded in creating a REB-5 Tourbillon with diamonds set using the mystery setting, a technique developed by Van Cleef & Arpels for mounting precious stones without any of the setting claws showing.

The settings are hidden from view as if by magic, the diamonds sparkling brilliantly without the slightest sign of a fastener in sight. They were cut in such a way as to leave no clue whatsoever that an attachment system is even being used. The Tourbillon Diamond symbolizes perfectly the fusion between jewellery and horology: a tourbillon movement and baguette diamonds. There are 307 diamonds making up the case (24.05ct) and another 12 diamonds in the crown (1.02ct); each precious stone is individually shaped according to its specific position; all diamonds are Top Wesselton quality and IF to VVS clarity.
It took about 1,000 man hours to design, research and development, the programming of the machines and tools, cutting of the diamonds, visual inspection of each part, setting, assembly and adjustment. These are the many links in the chain of command which culminated in this breathtaking achievement. Rebellion has gone for a watch, the REB-5 Tourbillon, with a mechanical tourbillion movement, a seven-day power reserve and a case in white gold with a total of 319 baguette diamonds (25.07 carats). The Full Diamond and the Black Diamond are submerged beneath their precious stones, yet this same blinding light is fully respectful of the original concept and aesthetic of the REB-5 Tourbillon

The bold lines which characterize the design of the REB-5 Tourbillon are not exactly what one expects to find on a diamond-studded watch, still less one with invisible settings. This was a challenge that was taken up thanks to the creativity, ingenuity, know-how and a touch of madness on the part of its creators. They had a dream and they fulfilled it.

Technical details
Case
White gold 18 K, with 307 diamonds (24,05 ct)
Sapphire crystals: anti-reflection coating both faces
Display back: white gold 18 K with sapphire crystals
Crown: white gold 18 K with 12 diamonds (1,02 ct)

Movement
Mechanical, manual winding with tourbillon manufacture movement, one-minute rotation tourbillon
Dimensions: 46 mm X 56,7 mm X 19,6 mm
Number of components: 45
Number of jewels: 23
Finishing: galvanic black gold plates, gold plated wheels, blued and black old screws, wolf-teeth barrels
Balance frequency: 21’600 A7j (3Hz)
Power reserve: 7 days from two mainspring barrels
Movements verified by in-house state-of-the art testing laboratory

Strap
Black alligator leather strap with double folding buckle

Backes & Strauss Royal Prince Regent Bespoke Limited Edition

The Royal Prince Regent is a most important collection of masterpiece timepieces from Backes & Strauss. This new model from the Regent Collection has 672 diamond weighing 66.24 carats and draws of the Regency architecture of John Nash, commissioned by the Prince Regent in 1811 to develop a huge swathe of London, the classical proportions of Nash's work can be seen in the sweeping curves and bold symmetry of the Regent Collection.

The 18kt white gold case is hand set with 28 custom cut diamonds weighing 10.03 carats and the dial hand set with 526 ideal cut Brilliant diamonds weighing 2.45 carats. The bespoke, full diamond bracelet is hand set with 117 custom cut hand polished diamonds weighing 53.67 carats ensuring a perfect fit to the wrist.

The back of the watch is open and through the sapphire glass you will see the decorated movement, each one of the five pieces will be individually engraved by the craftsman, “one of five, two of five and such like. The five watches are then unified with Backes & Strauss engraved on each Platinum Rotor. This is the true essence of craftsmanship at its finest and the results are testament to the craftsmen’s skills for only five pieces will ever be crafted. Suggested retail price of this timepiece is fixed at £900,000.00.

Technical details
Size: 40/47mm Ø
Movement: Automatic movement rotor with platinum segment.
Display: Hours, minutes and seconds.
Case: 18 kt white gold invisibly set with 28 custom cut diamonds of 10.03 carats
Crown: One ideal cut round diamond weighing 0.9 carats.
Dial: Invisibly set with 526 ideal cut round brilliant diamonds weighing 2.45 carats.
Bracelet: 117 custom cut diamonds weighing 53.67 carats

Diamond Technical Information
Cut: Custom proprietary cut in the shape of the case. Exclusively cut and hand set
Colour: Collection (F+)
Clarity: Clean (Flawless/VVS+)
Total 672 diamonds weighing 66.24 carats
Retailing at £900,000.00 including 20% VAT. Limited edition of 5 pieces

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : The Lady Fiona

Lady Fiona is the first ladies collection from Jean-Mairet & Gillman. The Collection was named after Cesar Jean-Mairet’s daughter and is a classic and elegant ladies watch. The stylish 36mm round dial, features a rotating bezel set with a sprinkling of diamonds, which frames the mother of pearl diamond dot dial. This striking collection shows the brands dedication to designing modern timepieces with classic styling. Available with either white or black diamonds and on a metal bracelet or leather strap, providing versatile elegance for the JMG lady.



Technical details
  • Case of 36mm, hand polished, crystal back, available in stainless steel, steel with white diamonds and steel with black diamonds
  • Automatic caliber JMG2003-2, 42 hours power reserve
  • Hours, minutes, small second, central 45 minute counter
  • Lacquered black, white or mother of pearl dial
  • Rotating bezel in steel set with white or black diamonds
  • Bracelet in steel or leather strap with folding clasp

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : The Continentes

First introduced at Baselworld 2005, the Continentes demonstrates Jean-Mairet & Gillman’s unique and highly skilled craftsmanship. The 43mm square rose gold case houses a truly innovative JMG in-house movement, which controls each time-zone from one central bezel. A bright concept encased in a stylish and bold large square case, this is a true showpiece for the watch connoisseur.
The part skeleton design exposes the centre of the dial to show the mechanics of the retrograde time-zones. It features a transparent back dial made of sapphire crystal and is also water resistant to 30m. Visually stunning and technically exceptional, the Continentes makes a bold statement.
Technical details
  • Case of 43mm, hand polished, crystal back, available in stainless steel, rose gold and white gold
  • Automatic caliber JMG 3101TR/1153
  • Hours, minutes, three retrograde time zone
  • Mother of pearl dial with worldmap decoration, matt black with silver or gold printed time zone and worldmap decoration, skeleton dial, rainbow
  • Strap in handstitched crocodile leather with classic buckle

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : The Hora Mundi

The Hora Mundi is the favourite timepiece of Cesar Jean-Mairet, the founder of Jean-Mairet & Gillman watch brand. The inspiration for this collection came while he was on a flight to Madrid. Considering buying a module for a new world-timer, he realised that he could create the same timepiece by using an existing JMG movement and adapting it. And so the Hora Mundi was born. Stylish, practical and very unique, the Hora Mundi is beautifully crafted and intelligently designed.
The individually hand set, rhodium city names are placed around the lacquered dial, displaying the world time. This automatic timepiece, with a 42 hour power reserve also has a complication that is a key asset for any global traveller; an alarm.
Technical details
  • Case of 41mm, hand polished, crystal back, available in stainless steel, rose and white gold
  • Automatic caliber JMG1999, 42 hours power reserve
  • Hours, minutes, worldtimer and alarm
  • Lacquered black, white or chocolate dial with rhodium cities surface in beige or white
  • The bezel may be set with diamonds or coloured precious stones
  • Strap in handstitched crocodile leather with folding clasp

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : The Grand Date

The ideal classic gentleman’s dress watch, the Grand Date by Jean-Mairet & Gillman boasts a traditional design. Elegantly crafted from solid gold or stainless steel, it has a 41mm round case, with Breguet styled numerals and rhodium or rose gold arrow shaped hands. Simply charming, it oozes sophistication.Its grand date is shown through two windows positioned at 12 o’clock and a small second sub dial is positioned at 6 o’clock.

Technical details
  • Case of 41mm, hand polished, crystal back, available in stainless steel, rose and white gold
  • Automatic caliber JMG2005BD/6860, 72 hours power reserve
  • Hours, minutes, small second and big date
  • Silver or black applied Breguet numerals, arrow hands in rhodium or rose gold
  • Strap in handstitched crocodile leather with folding clasp

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : The Chronograph Alexandre

The Chronograph Alexandre, a discrete chronograph timepiece collection fits well within the Jean-Mairet & Gillman (JMG) family of watches. It has all of the classic looks that the brand has become known for. The highly polished rounded case and sophisticated detailing on the dial among them. Unique in that it is a chronograph, but it is set apart from the rest due to the sleek way in which it has been designed. Created to pay tribute to the memory of Cesar’s brother, Alexandre, this stylish watch emphasises the watch-making skill and attention to detail JMG pays to its growing collection of classic timepieces. The Chronograph Alexandre has a power reserve of 42 hours with small second sub dial in an aperture at 12 and a 45-minute counter in the centre. The dial is available in silver or anthracite, with raised hand embossed indexes. The sleek crocodile leather strap adds to the elegance of this collection.
Technical details
  • Case of 41mm, hand polished, crystal back, available in stainless steel, rose, yellow and white gold
  • Automatic caliber JMG 2003, 42 hours power reserve
  • Hours, minutes, small second in a window at 12 position, central 45 minute counter
  • Sand blasted dial in silver or anthracite
  • Strap in handstitched crocodile leather with folding clasp

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : The Clement Gillman Collection

The Clement Gillman collection by independent Swiss watch brand Jean-Mairet & Gillman boasts classic good looks, the rounded case shape and double crown make it both practical and elegant at the same time. Its inspiration is taken from the other side of Cesar- Jean-Mairet’s ancestral family tree, the Gillmans, who trace their roots back to a family of scientists who travelled the world during the Victorian ages. Among them was Clement Gillman, who was the first man to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. Fitting then to create this world timer, with has such elegance and charm, reflecting the strong heritage of the brand.
The collection uses the automatic JMG 1999 calibre with power reserve of 42 hours. It has alarm function, date (positioned at 4), and a second time zone at 12. Its case is made of either rose, yellow gold, white gold, or stainless steel with a diameter of 41mm. On a beautifully hand stitched crocodile leather strap, the Clement Gillman range is the sophisticated choice for the world traveller.
Technical details
  • Case of 41mm in stainless steel, hand polished, crystal back
  • Automatic caliber JMG 1999 with a power reserve of 42 hours
  • Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 4 and second time zone at 12, alarm function
  • Lacquered dial available in black, white or chocolate
  • Bezel may be set in diamonds or coloured precious stones
  • Strap in handstitched crocodile leather with folding clasp

Jean-Mairet & Gillman Watches : Brand Info

Jean-Mairet & Gillman of Geneva, also known as JMG is a Geneva based independent luxury watch brand founded by César Jean-Mairet. The Jean-Mairet & Gillman brand, founded in 1999, is blessed with the rich horological heritage and culture inherited by the ancestors of the founder.

As a teenager, the entrepreneurial Jean-Mairet sketched watches and dreamed up innovative designs. As an adult he took his passion to the next level by making watches for friends and family. In 1999 he started producing timepieces commercially and by 2002 he was exhibiting at the Basel watch fair.

César Jean-Mairet was born in Valencia, Spain on February 14, 1956 of an Spanish mother and Swiss father. He went to school in Barcelona until the age of 12, when his parents moved to Geneva. He continued his studies in Geneva, later joining the engineering school there. At 21, with a degree in engineering, César Jean-Mairet left Geneva for Africa. He worked in Togo where he was in charge of the construction of an electrical power plant.

César Jean-Mairet, founder of Jean-Mairet & Gillman watch brand
The following year, he moved to Saudi Arabia, working for a prestigious Swiss company, to oversee the construction of another power plant. Once the project was finished, he returned to Geneva where he decided to enroll in financial studies at the University of Geneva, where he did an MBA. After years of working for a number of prestigious financial institutions, he then founded his own business.

Slowly he began returning to his passion — designing watches. In 1999, driven by his dreams, he created the brand Jean-Mairet & Gillman, combining his love for watches with a family tradition of watch-making mechanics and technology. He notes that this venture into watchmaking is not surprising, given his background and history – engineering is very much a part of watch-making, which is, in essence, micromechanics. His horological existence is of no coincidence, his lineage shows and illustrious history of watchmakers.

César has been married to Monste Margalef since 1991, and has a daughter named Fiona.

Jean-Mairet & Gillman: The Historical connection
The Jean-Mairet family came to the Neuchâtel region in the early 16th century. In 1566, Jean- Henry Mairet invented a seven-shot pistol and a machine tool for the watch-making industry. Then, in the 19th century, Sylvain Jean-Mairet, master horologist, became a maker of lever escapements, precision watches and chronometers. He invented a double stem-wind watch and perfected several lever devices.

The family heritage continued into the 20th century, when watchmaker André Jean-Mairet was appointed chief of the workshops at the École d’Horlogerie du Locle. His father had been a teacher of precision timing at the school and this was also André’s main area of interest. During his career, André won 119 first prizes from the Observatoire de Neuchâtel for his watch-making and secured two records for his chronometers.

Clement Gillman
The Gillmans form the other branch of César Jean-Mairet’s family tree. They trace their roots back to a family of scientists who travelled the world during the Victorian era. In fact, César Jean-Mairet’s great-great grandparents were none other than Robert Gillman and Caroline Bovet of the famous Bovet of Fleurier family of watchmakers. Bovet became famous for its pocket watches manufactured for the Chinese market in the 19th century. The original watches are also famous for being among the first to emphasize the beauty of the movements with their skeleton views and highly decorative movements.

Over a century later, the Jean-Mairet & Gillman brand, founded in 1999, is a fitting continuation of that rich horological heritage and culture. The product line is simple, classic yet contemporary, and designed for the connoisseur who loves watches. Each collection is unique and has its own personality. In fact, JMG has a discreet presence in the world of elite watch-making due to the fact that its watches are produced in limited series, making them both utterly desirable and highly collectable. Its sales network is constantly growing and the company is dedicating its efforts to develop a Geneva Seal movement. JMG does not wish to stand on its laurels but move forward to reach new heights, delivering its best in both style and function.

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