Sunday, April 29, 2012

Baume & Mercier Linea 32mm Automatic

Swiss luxury watch Baume & Mercier enhances its 32mm Linea family of ladies’ watches with new automatic models. Introduced in 1987, the sensual Linea line featuring 12 hour markers engraved on the bezel was an instant hit. It is one of the most versatile collections thanks to its beautifully integrated interchangeable straps. The incredibly easy-to-use interchangeable strap system, and its regularly updated strap color and leather/satin choices, makes this one of the most pleasant-to-wear-everyday watches. The new 32mm Linea automatic watches, offered in stainless steel, or in two-tone, feature various diamond settings ranging from diamond-adorned dial, to lightly diamond-set case, or a fully bedecked diamond case for ultimate shimmer.

Linea Automatic
Responding to the latest trend for women’s automatic watches, Baume & Mercier has proposed a refined, feminine automatic version of Linea with diamond setting and mother-of-pearl dial. The sapphire crystal caseback is fixed with four screws to demonstrate the watchmaking know-how.T he transparent back enables viewing of the meticulously finished automatic caliber. Silver-colored dial adorns two-tone version, while an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial accents the diamond steel models. Two new automatic watches complete the Linea collection.
Linea Automatic 10073
The 32mm Linea Automatic version, 10073, is created in a two-tone casewith integrated metal bracelet with luxe polished and satin finishes. The watch features a sapphire crystal case back, fitted with four screws, to enable viewing of the movement—complete with oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed décor and featuring the brand’s signature PHI symbol. The bracelet is offered with a triplefolding security clasp.

The watch is enhanced with an additional elegant brown satin strapwith pin buckle to offer versatility thanks to the ingenious Baume & Mercier interchangeable strap system. The feminine beauty is artistically anointed with a silver-colored dial with gilt handsand riveted indexes to indicate the hours, minutes and seconds. There is also a date display at 6:00. The scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback feature antiglare treatments, while the watch is water resistant to 5 ATM (approx. 50 meters).
Linea Automatic 10074
The automatic Linea model, 10074, is an all-stainless steel beauty with diamond accents on the enticing mother-of-pearl dial. Slated to launch starting April 2012, the ergonomically curved 32mm automatic watch with Baume & Mercier’s exclusive interchangeable strap system (sold with additional strap) houses a Swiss caliber, finished in-house with a fully decorated oscillating weight. The watch offers hours, minutes and seconds, as well as a date display at 6:00. The scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback feature antiglare treatments.

The caseback offers a view of the oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed décor and featuring the brand’s signature PHI symbol. The iconic engraved bezel and beveled bracelet feature polished and satin-finished steel. The bracelet is offered with a triple folding security clasp. The newest piece is created with a mother-of-pearl dial with snailed zones that beautifully boasts 11 diamonds. It is water resistant to 5 ATM (approx. 50 meters) – offering function as well as elegant form.
Technical Details
Model: LINEA 10074 Automatic
Collection: Linea, Reference: 10074

Movement
Self-winding (ETA 2892-A2/ Sellita SW300)
Oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève”, snailed decor and PHI symbol
Circular-grained finished plate and bridges
Jewels: 21 / 25
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz (28’800)
Functions: Date

Case
Round, Diameter: 32 mm, Thickness: 10 mm
Polished & satin-finished steel, engraved bezel
Scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, antiglare treatment
Sapphire crystal case back, fixed with 4 screws
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Dial
Mother-of-pearl with snailed finishes, set with 11 diamonds (0.07 cts, Ø 1.2),Riveted indexes

Bracelet
Interchangeable, Polished & satin-finished steel, Clasp: Triple folding security clasp
Additional bracelet: Interchangeable, Black satin, Buckle: Pin buckle

Model: LINEA 10073, AutomaticCollection: Linea, Reference: 10073

Movement
Self-winding (ETA 2892-A2/ Sellita SW300)
Oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève, snailed décor and PHI symboll
Circular-grained finished plate and bridges
Jewels: 21 / 25
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz
Functions: Date

Case
Round, Diameter: 32 mm, Thickness: 10 mm
Polished & satin-finished two-tone, engraved bezel
Scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, antiglare treatment
Sapphire crystal case back, fixed with 4 screws
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Dial
Sun satin-finished & snailed silver-colored
Gilt riveted indexes, Gilt hands

Bracelet
Interchangeable, Polished & satin-finished two-tone, Clasp: Triple folding security clasp
Additional bracelet: Interchangeable, Brown satin, Buckle: Pin buckle

Baume & Mercier Linea 32mm Quartz – Ref 10070/10071/10072

Swiss luxury watch brand Baume & Mercier enhances its 32mm Linea family of ladies’ watches with new models in Quartz. Introduced in 1987, the sensual Linea line featuring 12 hour markers engraved on the bezel, was an instant hit. It is one of the most versatile collections thanks to its beautifully integrated interchangeable straps. The incredibly easy-to-use interchangeable strap system, and its regularly updated strap color and leather/satin choices, makes this one of the most pleasant-to-wear-everyday watches. The new 32mm Linea quartz watches, offered in stainless steel, or in two-tone, feature various diamond settings ranging from diamond-adorned dial, to lightly diamond-set case, or a fully bedecked diamond case for ultimate shimmer.

Linea 32mm Quartz
This year marks the introduction of a quartz movement in a 32mm Linea stainless steel case that offers hours, minutes and seconds hands. Also new this year is a striking trapezoidal bezel setting that offers even more distinction. These evocative new pieces house a Swiss quartz caliber, with date display at 6:00. Varying degrees of diamonds – from an unset version to a full-set bezel – offer greater choice.

Each Linea 32mm quartz watch is artfully created with an alternating polished and satined finish as on the stainless steel case, bezel and bracelet. Each elegantly curved piece features the integrated iconic case-to-bracelet look that offers sleek styling and superb comfort. In addition to the bracelet with triplefolding security clasp, each watch comes with an additional, easily interchangeable black strap –calfskin or satin –with pin buckle to ensure different looks to suit different moods or occasions. Each watch features an engraved bezel, and a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal and a caseback with four screws that can possibly be personalized with engraving. The new Linea 32mm quartz watches are water resistant to 5 ATM (approx 50 meters).
Linea 10070/10071/10072
With its generous curves and harmonious appeal, the entry-price Linea quartz 32mm reference 10070 boasts a silver-colored dial with a combination of sun satin-finished and snailed zones for depth and dimension. It features riveted indexes, is sold with an additional black calfskin strap. The slightly diamond embellished Linea quartz 32mm reference 10071 naturally embodies all of the features and functions of its siblings, but is majestically built with a mother-of-pearl dial with snailed zones and riveted indexes. The case on this piece is elegantly bedecked with 10 diamonds weighing 0.18 carats. The additional strap for this piece is black satin. Sparkling in chic style, the Linea quartz 32mm version 10072 is beautifully equipped with a mother-of-pearl dial with snailed zones and riveted indexes. The case is meticulously set with 22 diamonds weighing 0.34 carats. This model is sold with an additional interchangeable black satin strap with pin buckle.

Technical details
Model: LINEA 10070
Collection: Linea, Reference: 10070
Movement: Quartz (Ronda 705), Functions: Date
Case: Round, Diameter: 32mm, Thickness: 8.3 mm, Polished & satin-finished steel, engraved bezel, Scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, antiglare treatment, Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial: Sun satin-finished & snailed silver-colored, Riveted indexes
Bracelet: Interchangeable, Polished & satin-finished steel
Clasp: Triple folding security clasp
Additional bracelet: Interchangeable, Black calfskin
Buckle: Pin buckle
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)


Model: LINEA 10071
Collection: Linea, Reference: 10071
Movement: Quartz (Ronda 705), Functions: Date
Case: Round, Diameter: 32mm, Thickness: 8.3 mm, Polished & satin-finished steel, Engraved bezel set with 10 diamonds (0.17 cts, Ø 1.7, Setting with Top Wesselton, VS, 32/24 diamonds quality), Scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, antiglare treatment, Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial: Mother-of-pearl with snailed finishes, Riveted indexes
Bracelet: Interchangeable, Polished & satin-finished steel
Clasp: Triple folding security clasp
Additional bracelet: Interchangeable, Black satin
Buckle: Pin buckle
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Model: LINEA 10072
Collection: Linea, Reference: 10072
Movement: Quartz (Ronda 705) , Functions: Date
Case: Round, Diameter: 32mm, Thickness: 8.3 mm, Polished & satin-finished steel , Engraved bezel set with 22 diamonds(0.34 cts, Ø 1.6, Setting with Top Wesselton, VS, 32/24 diamonds quality), Scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, antiglare treatment, Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial: Mother-of-pearl with snailed finishes , Riveted indexes
Bracelet: Interchangeable, Polished & satin-finished steel
Clasp: Triple folding security clasp
Additional bracelet: Interchangeable, Black satin
Buckle: Pin buckle
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

UJS (Urban Jürgensen & Sønner) P8 Chronometer Ref. 11C Automatic

Swiss luxury watch brand Urban Jürgensen & Sønner presents P8 Chronometer Ref. 11C Automatic, a world premier model equipped with the first automatic movement to ever integrate a pivoted detent escapement within a wristwatch. The first model in the P8 Chronometer line was P8 Reference 11L launched in 2011, which featured a Swiss lever escapement. The new Ref. 11C Automatic model features a patented pivoted detent escapement.

The newly introduced Urban Jürgensen Reference 11 represents the first time that the chronometer escapement has been used in a wristwatch. The invention is the result of several years' development work and has been patented world wide. In the past 25 years, in addition to individual, often complicated unique watches, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner also created wristwatches in small series from 50 up to a maximum of 300 examples. These watches were mainly based on ébauche movements from Frédéric Piguet, Le Brassus.

The long-held wish for a true UJS movement, with strong emphasis on precision, reliability and long intervals between servicing, has been addressed since 2003. In the 19th century, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner was the official chronometer maker to the Danish Royal Household and to the Admiralty. The quality of the marine chronometers from the house of Jürgensen was legendary. In order to close the loop from the past to modern times in an elegant and meaningful manner, development of a new movement and the chronometer escapement, suitable for use in a wristwatch, was undertaken. A particular problem was to ensure the necessary shockproof characteristics of the escapement. Having achieved this, the invention was patented on a world-wide basis by Urban Jürgensen.

The new movement UJS P8 is introduced to the market in two versions. The first model was with a traditional Swiss lever escapement and the second with the newly introduced detent escapement, a "first" in wristwatches.

The first watches with the new movement are the Reference 11L (lever escapement) and 11C (detent escapement), which maintain the appearance of the traditional Urban Jürgensen wristwatch. The References 11 will be cased in either platinum or rose gold and follows the typical company tradition of a hand engine-turned silver dial displaying hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve (ref. 11C).

Technical details
Movement
UJS P8
Diameter: 32 mm Height: 5.25 mm
Power source: Two barrels in series
Power reserve: 88h running time, indication by means of patented differential system
Balance: Freesprung, diameter 12.0 mm, moment of inertia 24 mg.cm2

Escapement
ref. 11C: pivoted detent escapement
ref. 11L: Swiss lever escapement

Case, Dial & Strap
Case: waterproof, saphire crystal back, platinum or 18 ct. rose gold, diameter 42 mm
Dial: Hand-engine turned silver dial, indication of hours, minutes and seconds, power reserve indication (88h)
Bracelet: leather, rose gold or platinum buckle

The chronometer escapement
The invention and development of the chronometer escapement, towards the end of the 18th century, was ascribed to John Arnold, Thomas Earnshaw, Pierre Le Roy and Ferdinand Berthoud. The new escapement proved to be a horological milestone that very quickly improved the precision of timekeepers. This characteristic was particularly decisive for navigation on the oceans of the world. The chronometer escapement delivers impulses directly to the balance from the escape wheel, without an intermediate component such as the lever in most modern watches. Each oscillation of the regulating organ, the balance and the spring, is only disturbed once, not twice as in other escapements. This arrangement is highly advantageous for the precision of the timekeeper. The escapement has a pivoted arm controlled by a fine spring. It is this detent which allows the escapement to be locked and unlocked as required.

Urban Jürgensen has succeeded for the first time to develop and put into practice a chronometer escapement that meets the highest requirements of reliability and resists the shocks to which a wristwatch is subjected.

UJS P8 Calibre
Introduced by Urban Jürgensen in 2012, the innovative self-winding caliber UJS P8 is the first automatic movement to ever integrate a pivoted detent escapement within a wristwatch.



This new automatic wristwatch based on in-house Caliber UJS P8 results from specific development research. The automatic winding is an integrated element specially developed for the caliber using the following special elements:

1. The very functional and reliable automatic module provides easy access for after-sales service and maintenance
2. The pivot and spring barrel bridge are intimately connected with each other.
3. The gold rotor mounted on a jewel bearing results in a simplified automatic system with little vulnerability
4. The unidirectional winding rotor and its ratchet wheel, which boasts an optimized tooth shape, is perfectly user-friendly and effective.
5. Five jewels in the bridge prevent the rotor being damaged even if it experiences great shock.
6. Rotor weight : 3,86 g

CORUM Admiral’s Cup 44 Chrono Centro Didier Cuche Limited Edition

In tribute to skiing legend Didier Cuche, who is also the new ambassador the brand, CORUM unveils a Limited Edition watch: the Admiral’s Cup 44 Chrono Centro Didier Cuche.

The sporting nature of the Didier Cuche model is embodied in the velvety matt glow of its 44 mm case in vulcanized rubber. Its extreme black interpretation of Corum’s signature twelve-sided design creates a striking contrast with the orange accents revealing the sheer vitality of this model: the rim of the nautical pennants on the fitted flange, the chronograph seconds hand, the Limited Edition logo, as well as the minute circle surrounding a dial featuring a truly unique décor. The center is adorned with a tapestry motif depicting the sportsman, whose face – part ski champion, part private citizen – is transferred on the dial using tone-on-tone, matt and shiny effects.

Two versions of the Admiral’s Cup 44 Chrono Centro will be issued: one with a black dial and the other with an anthracite variation. This limited edition is powered by the mechanical self-winding CO960 movement that is chronometer-certified by the COSC. It is equipped with the ultimate sports complication, the chronograph, interpreted in the distinctive Chrono Centro mode. The chronograph minutes hand, which traditionally appears on a small dedicated counter, is in this case mounted on the same axis as the hours and minutes hands. In addition to giving the chronograph and original and extremely restrained appearance, it also considerable enhances readability, especially since the chronograph minutes hand is tipped with orange Superluminova.

The case is water-resistant to 100 meters and secured by an grey sapphire exhibition back that creates a surprise effect by adopting the same distinctive Didier logo appearing on the tapestry-work dial center, in this instance metallized onto the crystal to create a mirror-like effect. The Admiral’s Cup 44 Chrono Centro Didier Cuche is fitted with a black vulcanized rubber strap and a triple folding clasp. This resolutely sporty watch will be issued in a strictly limited 100-piece edition.

Technical details
Model: Admiral’s Cup 44 Chrono Centro Didier Cuche Limited edition

Reference
960.801.20/F371 ANDC
960.801.20/F371 AKDC
100-piece limited edition

Movement
Self-winding chronograph, CO960, COSC certified
Frequency 4 Hz, 28'800 vibrations/hour
27 jewels
Exclusive CORUM finish, including the oscillating weight engraved with the brand name
48-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with minutes and seconds indication in the center

Case
44mm, twelve-sided case
Black vulcanized rubber
Crown engraved with the CORUM key
Screw-down open back, grey sapphire with metallized Didier Cuche face motif

Dial
Black or anthracite Tapestry pattern with Didier Cuche face
Small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock
12 nautical pennants representing the hours appearing on the fitted flange, rimmed in orange
Applied minutes numerals and chevrons 60-minute chronograph hand tipped with orange Superluminova
Orange-lacquered chronograph seconds with wit counterweight shaped like the CORUM key
Cut-out Superluminova-tipped hours and minutes hands
CORUM logo applied on the dial and LIMITED EDITION inscription

Glass: Cambered twelve-sided sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Strap: Black rubber strap, width 22/20 mm
Buckle: Folding clasp
Water resistance: 10 atmospheres (330 feet / 100 meters)

Saskia maaike Bouvier « Equilibre » (Yin time & the Yang time Collection)

Geneva based watchmaker Saskia maaike Bouvier presents her latest creation, « Equilibre » from the Yin time & the Yang time Collection. The « Equilibre » watch features a guilloché textured dial, that reveals the symbol of opposed, but complementary energies: “yin-yang”.
Created by Saskia maaike Bouvier, in line with genuine Swiss traditions of watchmaking, the SmB901 module operates through ETA 2892 movement. It is enclosed within a 45mm diameter steel case. The materials were meticulously selected to contrast: the dragon's style bracelet and the steel case, with a glass adorned with diamonds, represent the perfect "Equilibre" between the yin and the yang.

Technical details
- Steel case body, diam. 45mm. - Engraved, numbered and customisable backing.
- Glass adorned with 1,9 carat of diamond. - Automatic SmB 901-12 movement.
- Sapphire glass - Hand-sewn “dragon skin” bracelet and unfolding buckle.
- Exclusively manufactured in Switzerland. - Guilloché rhodium-plated dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5940 Ultra-Thin Self-Winding Perpetual Calendar

Apart from the round Calatrava silhouette and the inimitable Nautilus profile, the cushion shape ranks among the case styles that Patek Philippe has elevated to an iconic status. It was only natural to endow this classic 1920s form with an ultra-thin perpetual calendar. After all, Patek Philippe has launched the world's first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar in 1925. The result is the new Ref. 5940, which presents this highly useful complication in an elegant cushion-shaped case measuring 44.6 x 37 mm. With its gracefully fluid lines inspired by the Art Deco movement, this case style is a Patek Philippe design classic of timeless beauty that has remained strikingly contemporary across the decades.

Equally legendary: the 2.53 mm slim caliber 240 movement with its 22K gold minirotor integrated in the plate. The perpetual calendar adds only 1.35 mm in height, so all 275 parts are accommodated in a caliber that is a scant 3.88 mm thick. Nonetheless, the watch has an amazing rate accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day. This is a phenomenal result for a mechanical timepiece. The Ref. 5940 displays the time and the calendar indications on a grained, creamy white dial with superb legibility. With its charismatic movement and historically significant case design, it has all the assets needed to become a future favorite in the community of collectors.
The ultra-thin self-winding Perpetual Calendar has ranked among Patek Philippe's most popular complicated watches for many years. Now, the workshops are relaunching it in a format that emphasizes the brand's heritage in perpetual calendars: the Ref. 5940 in an 18K-gold cushion-shaped case. In the category of grand complications, which includes tourbillons, minute repeaters, or split-seconds chronographs, the perpetual calendar unquestionably offers the greatest everyday utility because it always indicates the correct date by taking into account the different durations of the months. Perpetual calendars were coveted complications in Patek Philippe pocket watches dating back to the 19th century. And when wristwatches became fashionable, the manufacture in Geneva was the first to miniaturize the ingenious calendar mechanism to such a degree that it would fit in cases for the wrist, which incidentally were much smaller then than they are today.

It was in 1925 when Patek Philippe presented the world's first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. Watch No. 97'975 displayed the hours and the minutes from the center, the seconds in a subdial at 9 o'clock, and the moon phases at 3 o'clock. Its analog calendar indicated the date with a hand from the center, the day of the week at 12 o'clock, and the month at 6 o'clock, taking into account leap years but without actually displaying the 4-year cycle as is customary today. The calendar functions were implemented as instantaneously jumping displays – a particularly challenging degree of difficulty.

Around this time, the Art Deco movement established itself in Europe. With its clear and creative style elements, it influenced the fine arts and architecture, furniture, and product design in a distinctive way that has lost none of its persuasive eloquence. Patek Philippe embraced the style as well. Not as a short-lived trend, however, but as a sustainable design philosophy that continues to manifest itself in the Gondolo collection. The class of so-called form watches includes all timepieces whose cases are not round. Form watches can be square, rectangular, or triangular as well as rhombus-, tonneau- and cushion-shaped. The still young and readily visible wristwatch soon acquired the status of a design accessory and remains very much en vogue to this very day. At Patek Philippe, cushion-shaped watches were highly popular, and some models can now be admired in the showcases of the Patek Philippe Museum. Alongside the round Calatrava classics, the unique Golden Ellipse, and the inimitable, casually elegant Nautilus, they are envoys of Patek Philippe's timelessly beautiful design language.

The cushion-shaped case experienced a first renaissance in 2010 with the ultra-thin split-seconds monopusher chronograph Ref. 5950 in stainless steel, and now, it stands in the limelight again with the new ultra-thin perpetual calendar Ref. 5940. With a length of 44.6 mm and a width of 37 mm, it features a very contemporary format with strong masculine appeal due to its modest height of merely 8.6 mm. In the high-tonnage presses at Patek Philippe's workshops, the slender silhouette is literally wrought out of 18K-gold blanks with the traditional cold-forming technique, followed by numerous consecutive machining steps. Finally, long hours of manual work are invested in polishing each case to a mirror gloss. It has gracefully curved flanks that appear to melt into the seamlessly integrated strap lugs. The watch is delivered with a sapphire-crystal snap back, which allows the owner to observe the consummately finished movement at work, and with an interchangeable snap back in solid yellow gold.
The caliber 240 Q movement is a masterpiece of technology crafted in its entirety in the manufacture's ateliers for complicated watches. Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. The basic movement launched in 1977, with a 22K-gold off-center mini-rotor recessed in the plate, already accounts for 2.53 mm. So merely 1.35 mm remain for the mechanical memory that spans an entire 4-year cycle and at the same time emulates the lunar orbit. The perpetual calendar always indicates the correct date, automatically taking into consideration the months with 31, 30, or 28 days, and the 29th of February in leap years. It does not need to be corrected until 2100, a secular year that omits the leap day pursuant to the rules of the Gregorian calendar. But this adjustment can be made quickly and easily, and thereafter, the watch will continue to display the correct date for the next 100 years, provided it remains wound without interruption. The moon-phase display is similarly accurate: it deviates from the true position of the moon by one day every 122 years, which is equivalent to a daily error of 0.002‰. And finally, the rate accuracy of the movement – responsible for timekeeping precision – is impressive as well. It ranges from -3 to +2 seconds per day as stipulated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal for all mechanical movements with diameters of over 20 mm. This beats the values required for officially certified chronometers.

This stunning rate accuracy is celebrated on a dial that deserves the attribute timelessly elegant in every respect. It has a grained, cream-colored surface that perfectly matches the gold hue of the case and is framed by a black transfer-printed railway-track minute scale that faithfully follows the contours of the bezel. Applied Breguet numerals as well as slender, leaf-shaped hands in gold indicate the time, accompanied by three subsidiary dials for the calendar displays. At 9 o'clock: the day of the week and the 24-hour dial. At 3 o'clock: the month and leap-year cycle. At 6 o'clock: the analog date and the moon phases. All indications are well organized and crisply legible, as is customary at Patek Philippe.
With its new Ref. 5940, Patek Philippe opens up a new chapter in perpetual calendars with the revival of the cushion-shaped case that looks as topical today as the 1920s and 1930s Art Deco showpieces in the Patek Philippe Museum that inspired it. The stately timepiece is worn on a matt black hand-stitched alligator strap with square scales and a prong buckle in 18K yellow gold.

Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5940, Men's wristwatch with perpetual calendar in 18K yellow gold

Movement
Caliber 240 Q
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement. Perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-year cycle. Moon phases.
Diameter 27.50 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 275
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: 48 hours
Winding rotor: Recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring Spiromax®

Functions: Two-position crown
– Pushed in: to wind the watch
– Pulled out: to set the time
Displays: Center hour and minute hands

Subsidiary dials:
Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o'clock
Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o'clock
Date and moon phases at 6 o'clock

Correctors
At 9 o'clock: day of week correction
Between 11 and 12 o'clock: date correction
Between 12 and 1 o'clock: month correction
At 6 o'clock: moon-phase correction

Setting stylus in ebony and 18K yellow gold delivered with the watch.
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Case: Cushion-shaped case in 18K yellow gold, cambered sapphire glass.
Sapphire-crystal snap back and interchangeable solid snap back in 18K yellow gold.
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Length x width 44.60 x 37.00 mm
Height: 9.25 mm (overall)
Height: 8.5 mm (back to glass)
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
Cream-colored, grained
Nine applied Breguet numerals in 18K yellow gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K yellow gold
Day of week, month, and date hands in 18K yellow gold
24-hour and leap-year-cycle hands in blued steel

Strap: Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt black, prong buckle in 18K yellow gold.

Alpina Heritage Pilot Limited Edition

Inspired by original Alpina Pilot watch designs from the 1920’s and 30’s, the Swiss watch brand Alpina has unveiled the Heritage Pilot model. The design details of the Alpina Heritage Pilot closely match the original timepiece from the Alpina archives, the handwound pocket watch caliber, the hinged case, as well as the Alpina applied brand logo and indexes on the dial.
At the same time, certain technical specifications have been upgraded to today’s watchmaking standards. For example, the accuracy of the caliber is improved and the case is manufactured in stainless steel for improved durability. The caliber can be seen once the hinged cover is opened on the backside of the watch. The movement is protected by an additional curved glass to also ensure water resistance, even when the hinged back is opened. The Alpina Heritage Pilot is offered in a limited edition of 1883 pieces, a number that was chosen as it matches the foundation year of Union Hologere, the company that registered the Alpina brand name in 1901.
Technical details
Model: Alpina Heritage Pilot
Reference: AL-435B4SH6
Limited edition of 1883 pieces, birth year of the brand
Delivered into a wooden and aluminium vintage gift box

Movement
Mechanical hand-winding movement, calibre AL-435
Cote de Genève decoration
42-hour power reserve
17 jewels

Functions
Hours, Minutes in the center, small second at 6 o’clock

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel case, diameter of 50 mm
Huntercase, which reveals see-through case back
Convex sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 3 ATM

Dial
Black mat dial and hand-applied luminous numerals
Hand applied vintage logo
Small second at 6 o’clock
Luminous hands in aged white color

Strap
Dark brown calf strap with ivory stitching, Water-resistant lining

Alpina Extreme Diver Collection - Automatic

Alpina Extreme Diver is a true professional diving watch with a water resistance up to 300 meters. It’s case is made of anti-corrosive materials has a scratch proof crystals, and is outfitted with extendable wrist straps that can fit over a wet suit.

The bezel of the Alpina Extreme Diver is unidirectional has luminous markers, and is used to set the maximum time a diver plans to be under water. Therefore, it is vital that the setting cannot be accidentally pushed or knocked off. Movement is automatic caliber AL-525, with functions hours + minutes + seconds and date at 3 o’clock. The Alpina Extreme Diver Collection is delivered in a special diving bottle gift box.
Technical details
Reference AL-525LB4V26 / AL-525LB4V26B / AL-525LB4V26B2

Movement
Automatic, with 26 jewels, caliber AL-525
42H power reserve
PVD Black coated Alpina rotor
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Case
Stainless steel case, 44 mm diameter
Sapphire crystal, see-through case back
Unidirectional turnable bezel, with luminous engraving
30 ATM Water-resistant

Dial
Black dial, large white luminous indexes
White luminous hands with Alpina red triangle signature on the second’s hand
Big date window at 3 o’clock

Strap: Black rubber strap / metal bracelet / mesh bracelet

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Chinese 12 ‘Double Hours’ system

Since the times of ancient China, three timekeeping systems have been used, sometimes simultaneously.The first was a system of dividing the full day into 12 ‘double hours.’ The first of the double hours started at our modern equivalent of 11 pm, therefore lasting until 1 am. Each of these divisions were associated with a sign of the zodiac - starting with Tzu designating the Rat. In medicine, the 12 double hours are divided into four categories representing the seasons.

The very first extant enumeration of the 12 ‘double hours’ is found in two popular almanacs dating from about 217 BC. They were written on bamboo strips and discovered in 1975 at Yunmeng, in the former kingdom of Chu in the central Yangzi region. From the seventh century on, each of those ‘double hours’ was divided into a ‘beginning half’ and a ‘standard half’. The first double hour, Tzu, began at what would be today 11 pm, not at midnight. The very origins of the signs or animals of the Chinese Zodiac, can be traced back to the ‘double hours’ timekeeping system. Although the majority of people know the Chinese Zodiac signs, not many are aware of the fact that they also come into play in the division of a day and that this was, in fact their original purpose. Indeed the Zodiac animals were first used to name the 12 double hours before being linked to the 12 years of a Chinese cycle. Each double hour takes its name from one of the Zodiac animals and the day follows the order of the signs.

Rat: 23:00 ~ 1:00 - named Zishi: This is the time when Rats are most active in seeking food. Rat also have different number of digit on front and hind legs, thus earning Rat the symbol of "turn over" or "new start".

Ox: 01:00 ~ 03:00 - named Choushi: This is the time when Oxen begin to crush the food, regurgitating to the mouth slowly and comfortably.

Tiger: 03:00 ~ 05:00 - named Yinshi: This is the time when Tigers hurt their prey more and show their ferocity.

Rabbit: 05:00 ~ 07:00 - named Maoshi: This is the time when the Jade Rabbit is busy pounding herbal medicine on the Moon according to the tale.

Dragon: 07:00 ~ 09:00 - named Chenshi: This is the time when Dragons are hovering in the sky to give rain.

Snake: 09:00 ~ 11:00 - named Sishi:
This is the time when Snakes are leaving their caves.
Horse: 11:00 ~ 13:00 - named Wushi: This is the time when the sun is high above and other animals are lying down for a rest, while the Horses are still standing.

Goat: 13:00 ~ 15:00 - named Weishi: This is the time when Goats eat grass and urinate frequently.

Monkey: 15:00 ~ 17:00 - named Shenshi: This is the time when the Monkeys are most lively.

Rooster: 17:00 ~ 19:00 - named Youshi: This is the time when Roosters begin to go back to their coops.

Dog: 19:00 ~ 21:00 - named Xushi: This is the time when Dogs begin to carry out their duty of guarding the houses.

Pig: 21:00 ~ 23:00 - named Haishi: This is the time when Pigs are sleeping sweetly.

The fixed order between the animals of the Chinese Zodiac has many proclaimed origins but the most famous one is a legend that dates back to the first kingdom. Once upon a time, the Jade Emperor decided to hold a meeting with all the animals and he would choose 12 of them to be the Zodiac animals. He also decreed that the ‘double hours of the day or the years on the calendar would be named for each animal as they arrived to the meeting.

All animals had to cross a river to reach the meeting place. The Cat and Rat who were best friends and both bad swimmers, decided that the safest and fastest way to cross the river was to hop on the back of Ox. Being naïve and good-natured, Ox agreed to carry them both across.

Midway across the river, Rat pushed Cat into the water. Then as Ox neared the other side of the river, Rat jumped ahead and reached the shore first. So he claimed first place in the competition and the zodiac. Following closely behind was strong Ox who was named the 2nd animal in the zodiac. After Ox, came Tiger, panting, while explaining to the Jade Emperor how difficult it was to cross the river with the heavy currents pushing it downstream all the time. But with its powerful strength, Tiger made to shore and was named the 3rd animal in the cycle.

Suddenly, from a distance came a thumping sound and the Rabbit arrived. It explained how it crossed the river: by jumping from one stone to another in a nimble fashion. For that, it became the 4th animal in the Zodiac cycle. Coming in 5th place was the Flying Dragon. Of course, the Jade Emperor was deeply curious as to why a swift flying creature such as the Dragon should fail to reach first place. The mighty Dragon explained that he had to stop and make rain to help all the people and creatures of the earth, and therefore he was held back. The Jade Emperor was very pleased with the action of the Dragon, and he was added into the zodiac cycle.

As soon as he had done so, a galloping sound was heard, and the Horse appeared. Hidden on the Horse's hoof was the Snake, whose sudden appearance gave the Horse a fright, thus making it fall back and giving the Snake the 6th spot, while the Horse placed 7th.

Not long after that, a little distance away, the Goat, Monkey, and Rooster came to the shore. These three creatures helped each other to get to where they are. The Rooster spotted a raft, and took the other two animals with it. Together, the Goat and the Monkey cleared the weeds, tugged and pulled and finally got the raft to the shore. Because of their combined efforts, the Emperor was very pleased and promptly named the Goat as the 8th creature, the Monkey as the 9th, and the Rooster the 10th.

The 11th animal was the Dog. Although he was supposed to be the best swimmer, he could not resist the temptation to play a little longer in the river. For that, he almost didn't make it to finish line. Just as the Jade Emperor was about to call it a day, an oink and squeal was heard from a little Pig. The Pig got hungry during the race, promptly stopped for a feast and then fell asleep. After the nap, the Pig continued the race and was named the 12th animal of the zodiac cycle. The Cat finished as thirteenth place and did not make it in the zodiac. Feeling betrayed, he vowed that henceforth Rat would be his enemy. That is probably the main reason Cats are always chasing after Rats.

Courtesy: Chinese Timekeeper

HUBLOT BIG BANG "AERO BANG JET LI" Limited Edition

The BIG BANG "AERO BANG JET LI" Limited Edition is a tribute to Jet Li, Hublot's leading ambassador in Asia since 2010. A percentage of the profits from the sale of these watches will be donated by Hublot to the One Foundation founded by Jet Li in 2006.

Based on the iconic Big Bang design and in Hublot's famed, elegant matt black, this black ceramic watch is inspired by many aspects of Jet Li's life: the skeleton dial is a miniaturisation of the metal trellis found in the celebrated Shaolin temple in China – a symbol with dual significance for Jet Li: this Buddhist religious temple built in the 5th century is now also the home of martial arts training, in particular Chinese Kung-Fu. It is also the title of Jet Li's first film, which brought him to fame in the role of the defending monk. The accents of red, such as on the minute track and the stitching on the strap, are a clear reference to China.



Lastly, the crystal on the case back has a transfer depicting Yin and Yang, as requested by Jet Li in reference to his life's philosophy, showing Yin (represented by the black) and Yang (the white). In Chinese philosophy, Yin and Yang are the two complementary categories that can be found in all aspects of life and the universe.



Technical details
Model: HUBLOT BIG BANG "AERO BANG JET LI"
Reference 311.CI.1130.GR.JLI11
Series: Limited to 200 pieces numbered from 01/200 to 200/200

Case
44.5 mm Big Bang in micro-blasted black ceramic
Bezel: Micro-blasted black ceramic, 6 H-shaped black PVD titanium screws, countersunk, polished & locked
Crystal: Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective coating
Bezel Lug: Black composite
Lateral inserts: Black composite
Crown: Black PVD steel with black rubber insert
Push-pieces: Black PVD steel, rectangular, with black rubber inserts
Case-back: Open microblasted black ceramic Crystal with Yin and Yang transfer and Jet Li's signature
Water resistance: 10 Atm, i.e. approx. 100 metres

Dial
Matt black openworked with decoration evoking the Shaolin temple windows
Satin-finished indexes with black SuperLuminova™ ruthenium coating
Red minute track transfer

Hands
Faceted and polished with black nickel coating, plus black and red SuperLuminova™
Red chronograph hand with H counterpoise

Movement
HUB4214 - Automatic mechanical Aerobang chronograph
Component: 257 – Jewels: 27
Date: Sapphire disc with display at 4.30
Oscillating weight: Openworked with black PVD coating, tungsten segment
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours

Strap
Strap: Adjustable black gummy alligator sewn onto black rubber with red stitching
Clasp: Micro-blasted black PVD steel Big Bang deployant buckle

HUBLOT King Power UEFA EURO 2012™ (Ukraine & Poland) Limited Edition

HUBLOT, appointed Official Watch of UEFA EURO 2012™, has unveiled two official limited edition “UEFA EURO 2012™ watches at Kyiv Olympic Stadium, an imposing 68,000-seater structure and the venue which will host several UEFA EURO 2012™ matches as well as the final scheduled for 1st July 2012.

As Official Watch of the UEFA EURO 2012 ™, and also present on the referee board of the 14th UEFA European Football Championship, Hublot has chosen the Kyiv Olympic Stadium, an imposing 68,000-seater structure and the venue which will host several UEFA EURO 2012™ matches as well as the final scheduled for 1st July 2012, as the symbolic location for the unveiling of its two official UEFA EURO 2012™ watches.



Among the two King Power UEFA EURO 2012™ watches, one is made from King Gold and ceramic and mainly featuring the blue of the Ukrainian flag, and the other is in titanium and ceramic featuring the red of the Polish flag. This King Power chronograph; 48 mm in diameter, with elegant sporty lines, was specially created for this event and includes a 45-minute counter at 9 o'clock amongst its special features, indicating the duration of half a football match as a nod to the footballing world. The official UEFA logo is featured on the watch's sapphire crystal case-back, surrounded by a graphic representation of a football, inspired by the competition's official logo.



Technical Details
References
Ref 716.OM.1129.RX.EUR12 (Ukraine) – Limited edition of 250 numbered pieces
Red 716.OM.1129.RX.EUR12 (Poland) – Limited edition of 500 numbered pieces

Case
"King Power" - Diameter 48 mm in 18K King Gold (Ukraine) or satin-finished titanium (Poland)
Bezel: Black ceramic with circular satin finish and black rubber moulding, 6 H-shaped relief black PVD titanium screws
Crystal: Sapphire with blue minute track transfer (Ukraine)/or red Sapphire with red minute track transfer (Poland) Interior and exterior anti-reflective coating
Bezel lug: Black composite resin
Lateral insert: Black composite resin with push-piece guard at 3 o'clock
Case-back: 18K King Gold with circular satin finish (Ukr) or titanium with circular satin finish (Pol) - UEFA EURO 2012™ logo transfer on crystal
Crown: Satin-finished 18K King Gold or satin-finished Titanium with black rubber insert
Push-pieces: Black PVD titanium with black and blue (Ukraine) or back and red (Poland) rubber moulding
Water resistance: 10 ATM or approximately 100 metres

Dial
Sapphire, satin-finished indexes coated with 5N gold with yellow SuperLuminova™ (Ukr) or
Sapphire satin-finished indexes coated with ruthenium with white SuperLuminova™ (Pol) –
Date window at 4 o'clock

Hands
Satin-finished and coated with 5N gold, with blue SuperLuminova™ (Ukraine)
Satin-finished and ruthenium coated, with red SuperLuminova™ (Poland)

Movement
HUB4245 skeleton chronograph with central 45’ counter - Self-winding mechanical movement
Oscillating weight Black galvanic coating, with tungsten carbide heavy metal segment
Components 249 (Jewels: 28)
Frequency 4 Hz (28,600 Vib/h) / Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap
Strap: Adjustable black rubber strap with blue or red decoration
Clasp: Micro-blasted black PVD titanium deployant buckle & satin-finished 18K King Gold (Ukr)
Satin-finished titanium (Pol) decorative plate

Hublot King Power Miami HEAT Chronograph Limited Edition

Hublot has created their first-ever King Power Miami HEAT Chronograph to become the first Swiss luxury brand to launch an NBA timepiece.

Since the start of their relationship in December, 2010, Hublot and the Miami HEAT have shared the same strategic mission - to be the most creative, forward thinking, prepared and hard-working organizations in their respective fields. This determination has inspired the creation of the King Power Miami Heat Chronograph, a distinctive piece that combines the best of both brands. Proceeds from the sales of the exclusive Miami HEAT limited edition timepiece will go directly to the Miami HEAT Charitable fund to benefit the South Florida Community. Together, Wade, Haslem, Hublot and the Miami HEAT organization are working hard to make a difference which is why unveiling a watch of this caliber at a charity event hosted by the Arison and Riley Families is the perfect synergy.



The team will auction a unique King Power Miami HEAT chronograph during “An Intimate Evening with your Miami HEAT,” an exclusive fundraising gala featuring the entire 2011-12 Miami HEAT team and a live guest performance by Grammy Award-winning singer, author and actress Patti LaBelle, which will be hosted on March 21, 2012.Thevery first piece in the series, numbered 000/200 also features the numbers of each Miami HEAT player in Jersey font on the back of the watch.



The King Power Miami HEAT is an impressive combination of innovation and sophistication. With a refined and graphic design this timepiece is a fusion of high watch making tradition and 21st century creative vision. The Miami HEAT watch is made of 18K King Gold, a particularly precious and intense gold obtained by adding five percent platinum to the mass of melting gold, giving it a visual impact which is reinforced by the contrast with the black coating of the other components. Housed in the 48 mm case of the Miami Heat watch is a new movement that features a special 48 minute central counter simulating the four quarters of a basketball game.



With hints of the teams bold red color, a bezel designed to mimic a basketball net and a push button inspired by the shape of the basketball backboard, it is a true reminder of HEAT basketball spirit fusing style and materials (black ceramic, sapphire glass, rubber) and mechanics in way that uniquely addresses the respective DNA of Hublot: innovation, performance, technology and exclusivity.

The piece features a 48-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 100 meters. The entirely Swiss made collection is limited to only 200 numbered pieces. Each King Power Miami HEAT is presented in a limited edition, basketball-inspired, Hublot box and accompanied by an authentic Miami HEAT autographed Jersey signed Udonis Haslem. It is available exclusively in South Florida Hublot Boutiques and select Hublot Retailers.

About the MIAMI HEAT CHARITABLE FUND
Established in 1997, the Miami HEAT Charitable Fund supports programs for the betterment of at-risk families in South Florida. Beneficiaries include SafeSpace, a domestic violence shelter for women and children, the Jackson Memorial Foundation’s Guardian Angels and Holtz Children’s Hospital, and the Miami Coalition for a Safe and Drug-Free Community.

The Miami HEAT Charitable Fund also provides educational scholarships for high school seniors and partners with inner-city elementary schools to fund the HEAT Academy, which provides after-school tutoring and mentoring programs. Through these initiatives, the Miami HEAT Charitable Fund continues to inspire the youth of South Florida to envision their dreams and achieve their goals.

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Seafender 48 Chrono Centro: Special Edition Trophée Jules Verne 2012 - Maxi Banque Populaire V

Swiss luxury watch brand CORUM has been associated with Banque Populaire – a major player in the sailing world – in supporting one of the most sought-after nautical challenges: the Trophée Jules Verne.

As Official Timekeeper of this prestigious round-the-world race and to honor its partnership, Corum has created a dedicated watch from its Admiral’s Cup collection equipped with a chronograph function, the premium horological complication for sports watches. The dial of the Admiral’s Cup Seafender 48 Chrono Centro bears the inscription “Trophée Jules Verne 2012”, while the back is engraved with a depiction of the race course.
If the team manages to better the existing record, Corum was to reward each member of the Maxi Trimaran Banque Populaire V crew with a watch from this special edition, personalized with his individual name. In 2012 edition of Jules Verne Trophy, Loïck Peyron and the Maxi BanquePopulaire V crew completed the sail in record time: 45 days, 13 hours, 42 minutes, 53 seconds. On January 6th 2012, at 23 hours, 14 minutes and 35 seconds, the watchmaker stopped its chronograph to record the victory achieved by the 14 men during their round-the-world race against the clock. To pay tribute to the BanquePopulaire team’s great victory, Corum has just awarded the 14 crew members,as well as their onshore router, the special brand new model called the “Trophée Jules Verne 2011-2012”.

Technical details

Movement
Self-winding chronograph, CO960, COSC certified
Frequency 4 Hz, 28,800 vibrations/hour
27 jewels
Special CORUM finish, including the oscillating weight engraved with the brand name and black PVD treatment
Power reserve of 42 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with minutes and seconds indication in the center
Specific pusher locking system

Case
48mm diameter, twelve-sided case
Titanium, case engraved with the name of the team member and « Trophée Jules Verne 2012 » and « Maxi Banque Populaire V »
Crown in titanium, engraved with CORUM key
Black vulcanized rubber bezel and crown protector
Screwed open back in titanium, sapphire glass engraved with the route of the Trophée Jules Verne - Maxi Banque Populaire V

Dial
Black with Clous de Paris
Small seconds at 9 o’clock, date indication in a window at 3 o’clock
12 monochrome nautical pennants representing the hours transferred on the fitted flange
Minutes and minute chevrons
Facetted hour and minute hands with black Superluminova
60 minutes chronograph hand with yellow Superluminova
CORUM logo applied on the dial with “Trophée Jules Verne” at 6 o’clock

Glass: Cambered twelve-sided sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Strap: Leather strap with textile look, width 24/24 mm
Buckle: Buckle, engraved with CORUM logo
Water resistance: 10 atmospheres (330feet / 100 meters)

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Chrono

This year, CORUM is enriching its Admiral’s Cup legend line with the Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Chrono, equipped with a COSC-certified chronograph movement, Caliber CO983. This movement driving the hour, minute, small seconds, date and chronograph functions beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and boasts a 42-hour power reserve.

Admiral’s Cup line was introduced in 1960, and for over half a century, it has thereby embodied the brand’s tribute to the maritime world and to sailors. In 2011, the legendary collection witnessed the birth of the more classic Legend line in the form of an understated and elegant automatic watch that nonetheless retained the distinctive Admiral’s Cup features.
The new model remains loyal to the collection’s legendary twelve-sided bezel, but the latter features the softest lines in the entire Legend line, reflected in the slender, streamlined chronograph pushers. The elegant 42 mm case is fitted with a screw-in transparent sapphire caseback providing an admirable view of the mechanism within. Available in steel, two-tone steel/gold or 18-carat red gold versions, the watch comes in a range of 11 references. The classic and distinctly horological nature of these timepieces is revealed by the vertical guilloché motif on the steel and steel/gold models, and the barleycorn guilloche pattern on the 18K red gold models.
The understated dial colors, particularly the shade of blue inspired by the original Admiral’s Cup model, beautifully match the flowing lines of the case. The three chronograph counters are harmoniously arranged and readable at a glance. 11 hour-markers enable accurate reading of the hours and minutes, while the figure 60 appears in the 12 o’clock position.
The Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Chrono is available with a crocodile leather strap equipped with a pin buckle for the gold models and a folding clasp for the steel/gold and steel models. The steel and steel/gold models are also available on a matching metal bracelet.

Technical details
Model: Admiral's Cup Legend 42 Chrono
Ref 98 4.101.20/0F01 AB10

Movement
Movement number: CO 984
Winding system: Automatique
Functions: Chronograph • Minute • Hour • Date • Small second
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28'800 vph
Dimension: 12 1/2'''
Rubies: 37
Movement finishes: Rotor with CORUM dedicated decoration
Certification: C. O. S. C. certified

Case
Shape: Dodecagonal
Dimension: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.60 mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Stainless steel
Crown protector material: Stainless steel
Crown material: Stainless steel • Engraved CORUM key
Pushers: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back type: Screwed in sapphire open back with antireflective treatment
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 ATM

Dial
Colours: Blue
Material: Brass
Distinctive features: Hourly nautical pennants transferred on the flange • Minute-circle indexes transferred on the flange • Inscribed "Admiral's Cup" transferred on the dial • "Guilloché" finishing • Applied rhodiumcoated hour indexes • CORUM logo applied on the dial

Hands
Hour and minute: Dauphine-variant • Rhodium-coated • Faceted • Skeleton • White superluminova
Small second: Dauphine • Rhodium-coated • Faceted • White superluminova
Chronograph: Baton with CORUM key • Rhodium-coated
30 minutes counter: Dauphine • Rhodium-coated • Faceted • White superluminova
12 hours counter: Dauphine • Rhodium-coated • Faceted • White superluminova

Bracelet
Material: Crocodile leather
Colours: Black
Interhorn/Buckle: 21/18 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp
Buckle material: Stainless steel
Buckle distinctive features: Engraved CORUM logo • Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon

Swiss luxury watch maker CORUM unveils a poetic complication timepiece dedicated to women from its Admiral’s Cup collection. Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon watch featuring genuine mother-of-pearl dial carrying the Sun and Moon is specially developed for a demanding feminine clientele.

Without renouncing any of the design codes that have forged the identity of this iconic collection for over 50 years, CORUM provides an authentic demonstration of poetry and expertise in this stunning timepiece. Within the legendary twelve-sided case surrounded by 12 nautical pennants, a moon-phase display and a sunburst date indication play a fascinating game of chase without ever catching up with each other. This exclusive Corum patented horological complication represents a landmark introduction to the Admiral’s Cup collection, which is thereby displaying its willingness to embrace feminine wisdom.
For over 50 years, the Admiral’s Cup watch has embodied the brand’s tribute to the maritime world and to seamen. In 2011, this emblematic collection is now also interpreted in a more demure line featuring a slimmer stature and more rounded lugs. Aptly named Legend, this line features understated and classic models effectively propelling this forceful collection into a distinctively elegant and refined world.

The Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon, powered by the self-winding Caliber CO384 endowed with a 42-hour power reserve, indicates the hour, minute, jumping date and jumping moon-phase functions. The mother-of-pearl disc of the latter indication appears in a satin-brushed metallic counter studded with stars – of which six are gem-set. This fragment of the universe echoes the date display appearing on the opposite side of the dial through a round off-set aperture with beveled edges. This is where the magic weaves its spell as, bathed in the glow of a sunburst motif engraved in white or black Indonesian mother-of-pearl according to the version, the entire dial revolves around its center, pushing the aperture on to the new date in successive jumps and leading the moonphase subdial in its wake.
This breathtaking vision, swept over by openworked, faceted and luminescent hour and minute hands, is magnificently staged within a 38 mm-diameter steel case enhanced by a twelve-sided bezel set with 72 diamonds (0.58 carats). All the functions are adjustable via the single screw-lock crown engraved with the Corum key. The same emblem and name are metalized on the inner face of the sapphire crystal, while the caseback is protected by a second sapphire crystal secured by four screws. This exceptional feminine model is water-resistant to 30 meters and secured to the wrist by a white or black satin strap equipped with a triple folding clasp bearing the engraved Corum logo.

Technical details
Model: Admiral's Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon
Ref 38 4.101.47/F149 AN01

Movement
Movement number: CO 384
Winding system: Automatic
Functions: Minute • Hour • Date • Moonphase
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28'800 vph
Dimension: 13'''
Rubies: 30
Movement finishes: Rotor with CORUM dedicated decoration

Case
Shape: Dodecagonal
Dimension: 38 mm
Thickness: 12.20 mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Stainless steel • 72 Round diamonds • ~ 0.58 ct
Crown material: Stainless steel • Engraved CORUM key
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back type: Screwed in sapphire open back with antireflective treatment
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 ATM

Dial
Colours: Black
Material: Mother-of-pearl
Distinctive features: CORUM logo transferred under the sapphire glass • Hourly nautical pennants applied on the flange • Rotating dial – date and moonphase indicators complete one revolution in 31 days • Moonphase indicator - inner disc changes every 23,5 hours : 6 Round diamonds • ~ 0.02 ct

Hands: Hour and minute: Dauphine-variant • Rhodium-coated • Faceted • Skeleton • White superluminova

Bracelet
Material: Satin
Colours: Grey
Interhorn/Buckle: 19/15 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp
Buckle material: Stainless steel
Buckle distinctive features: Engraved CORUM logo

CORUM Admiral's Cup Legend 42 Annual Calendar Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand CORUM enriches its legendary Admiral’s Cup collection with a new Annual Calendar model. The new Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Annual Calendar, crafted in red gold or steel, with a silver-toned or anthracite dial, is distinguished by pure lines and a philosophy firmly focused on essentials. The various calendar functions are displayed clearly and harmoniously on the dial. In addition to the hours, minutes and seconds, the watch indicates the date around the dial circumference by means of an openworked hand, and the months through a snailed aperture at 6 o’clock.
Representing a remarkable and eminently useful horological complication, the annual calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, thus requiring just one adjustment per year, at the end of February. The time indications are provided by three semi-openworked hands, faceted and enriched with a white luminescent substance that makes them stand out in the dark. The date hand with its Corum key symbol counterweight sets a final precious touch to this charming picture. The dial is also characterized by its elegant aesthetic featuring 11 applied hour-markers and the figure 60 instead of the usual 12; a vertical guilloché motif for steel models, and a barleycorn guilloché pattern for the red gold versions.
Water-resistant to 30 meters, the 42 mm-diameter case of the Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Annual Calendar houses the mechanical automatic Corum CO503 movement, endowed with a 42-hour power reserve. On the reverse side of the watch, a sapphire caseback reveals the heart of the movement and its oscillating weight personalized with the brand logo. The leather strap comes fitted with a folding clasp for the steel version and with a pin buckle for the gold variation. The Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Annual Calendar is issued in a limited annual production run of 25 in red gold and 150 in steel.

Technical details
Model: Admiral's Cup Legend 42 Annual Calendar
Ref 503.101.55/0001 AK12

Movement
Movement number: CO 503
Winding system: Automatique
Functions: Minute • Hour • Second • Date • Month
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28'800 vph
Dimension: 11 1/2'''
Rubies: 21
Movement finishes: Rotor with CORUM dedicated decoration • 5N red gold-plated rotor

Case
Shape: Dodecagonal
Dimension: 42 mm
Thickness: 10.65 mm
Case material: 5N 18kt red gold
Bezel material: 5N 18kt red gold
Crown protector material: 5N 18kt red gold
Crown material: 5N 18kt red gold • Engraved CORUM key
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back type: Screwed in sapphire open back with antireflective treatment
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 ATM
Distinctive features: Date corrector at 4 o'clock • Month corrector at 5 o'clock

Dial
Colours: Charcoal grey
Material: Brass
Distinctive features: Hourly nautical pennants transferred on the flange • Inscribed "Admiral's Cup" transferred on the dial • 5N red goldcoated CORUM logo applied on the dial • "Barleycorn" finishing • Applied 5N red gold-coated hour indexes • 31-days-circle transferred on the dial

Hands
Hour and minute: Dauphine-variant • Faceted • 5N red goldcoated • Skeleton • White superluminova
Second: Baton with CORUM key • 5N red goldcoated
Date: Baton • 5N red gold-coated • Skeleton • White superluminova
Month: Dauphine • Faceted • 5N red gold-coated

Bracelet
Material: Crocodile leather
Colours: Black
Interhorn/Buckle: 21/18 mm
Buckle type: Tongue buckle
Buckle material: 5N 18kt red gold
Buckle distinctive features: Engraved CORUM logo

CORUM Ti-Bridge Power Reserve in Red Gold (Ref 107.101.05/0F81 0000) Limited Edition

Introduced in 2011, the Ti-Bridge collection now welcomes a new member to the family of watches based on linear time concept. The Ti-Bridge Power Reserve in titanium was the reference model of this collection when it launched last year. In 2012 CORUM is expanding this line with a new Ti-Bridge Power Reserve model in Red Gold case that offers a contemporary interpretation of the Golden Bridge spirit.

The movement remains same: Caliber CO107. The sobriety of the red gold adorning the case makes a perfect match for the titanium of this hand-wound baguette movement. The horizontal baguette movement held by four ruthenium-coated bars excels in its role of epitomizing unique and absolute horological purity.

The association of these two materials is so powerful and so modern that it ideally combines with the architectural codes of the watch. Above and beyond their precious nature, the linearity and depth of the parts is further enhanced in this model. Red gold ennobles the watch from case to crown and creates a striking contrast with the titanium of the movement. The applied gilded logo and hour-markers embellish the dial, while the hour and minute hands as well as the power-reserve indicator are coated with luminescent material in order to be readable even in the dark. Fitted with a crocodile leather strap secured by a gold triple folding clasp with two safety pushers, the Ti-Bridge Power Reserve is issued in a 50-piece limited numbered edition.
At its heart beats a worthy representative of horological nobility, Caliber CO107, which drives the hour and minute functions as well as the power-reserve indication. Reflecting the structured geometry of this timepiece, the linear power-reserve was a natural choice. To achieve this, Caliber CO107 is fitted with a satellite going train that is visible when viewing the watch sideways along the 9 – 3 o’clock axis, but invisible when looking face on at this Ti-Bridge watch. This module features several specific characteristics, including a differential system composed of three wheels, including an offset planetary wheel. Depending on its rotation direction, the latter spins either on its axis or around that of the two other wheels, thereby linking the barrel on the one hand and the winding stem on the either to the power-reserve indicator – and all within a minimum of space. Another specific feature developed for this caliber is the power-reserve indicator fitted on a toothed sliding piece in phosphate nickel. The choice of this material, combined with a “LIGA” manufacturing process – an acronym derived the German words for lithography, electroplating and molding -– which is a type of electroforming, serves to create a part with far more precise measurements than those achieved by classic mechanical machining. It thereby guarantees the extremely accurate indication of the level of the power reserve – which in this case amounts to three days in all.

Technical details
Model: CORUM TI-BRIDGE POWER RESERVE Ref 107.101.05/0F81 0000

Movement
Movement number: CO 107
Winding system: Mechanical
Functions: Minute • Hour • Power reserve
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28'800 vph
Dimension: 17''' x 5.5'''
Rubies: 25

Case
Shape: Tonneau-shape
Dimension: 42.50 x 52.30 mm/ép 13.23 mm
Thickness: 13.23 mm
Case material: 5N 18kt red gold
Crown material: 5N 18kt red gold • Inserted CORUM key
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back type: Screwed in sapphire open back with antireflective treatment
Water-resistance: 50 meters / 5 ATM

Dial
Material: No dial
Distinctive features: Minute-circle indexes transferred on the flange • Applied 5N red gold-coated hour indexes

Hands
Hour and minute: Baton • 5N red gold-coated • Skeleton • Grey superluminova
Power reserve indicator: 5N red gold-coated • Grey superluminova

Bracelet
Material: Crocodile leather
Colours: Black
Interhorn/Buckle: 24/21 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp
Buckle material: 5N 18kt red gold
Buckle distinctive features: Engraved CORUM logo • Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers

Friday, April 27, 2012

ROGER DUBUIS Boutique Edition: Fine Jewellery Versions of La Monégasque Automatic, La Monégasque Chronograph & Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon

These high jewellery versions of ROGER DUBUIS’ prestigious watch models were introduced to match the occasion of New Year celebrations in 2012. It was for the first time that ROGER DUBUIS has created a cross-collection line of jewellery watches. Set with brilliant-cut or baguette-cut diamonds, the La Monégasque Automatic watch, the La Monégasque Chronograph watch and the Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon watch, have been produced exclusively in gold and in extremely limited editions, to mark this special occasion. All the models are stamped with the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève.

La Monégasque Automatic Fine Jewellery: The year 2011 has been a turning-point in the history of ROGER DUBUIS. With its new La Monégasque Collection, the brand has achieved the feat of re-inventing itself while losing none of its identity. With its bold, drawn-out lines, La Monégasque draws its inspiration from the spirit of Monte Carlo and its intense love of gambling.

This Automatic model is suitably adorned with 124 brilliant-cut diamonds, for a total of approximately 1 carat. Its case, available in pink gold, measures a very respectable 42 mm in diameter. This little jewel of a watch houses an RD821 movement, entirely designed, developed and produced in the ROGER DUBUIS Workshops. It has hour, minute and small seconds functions at 6 o’clock. The watch is delivered with a black alligator-skin strap with a pin buckle.
La Monégasque Chronograph Fine Jewellery: Fascinating and captivating in its exuberance, the gambling world that dominates Monte Carlo has a lot in common with the La Monégasque Collection. Both are characterised by the combination of passion and elegance, and are daring and selfcontrolled.

The Chronograph model has been specially selected for the Jewellery line. It clearly embodies the brand’s capacity for self-renewal. Its dial with its brushed sunray effect centre and brushed surrounding circle, is adorned with gold transfers and appliques to form an ensemble of unparalleled refinement. The RD680 calibre with which it is equipped, represents the latest generation of ROGER DUBUIS mechanical movements. Featuring the automatic micro-rotor winding system that is characteristic of the Manufacture, it is equipped with hour, minute and small seconds functions at 9 o’clock with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. This La Monégasque Chronograph model, with its 44 mm diameter, sparkles with 116 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of approximately 1.4 carats.

Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon Fine Jewellery: The only one of its kind in the market, this Skeleton Double Tourbillon watch from the legendary Excalibur Collection is the latest example of contemporary Fine Watchmaking signed by ROGER DUBUIS.
Equipped with two differential flying tourbillon mechanisms, this hand-wound RD01SQ calibre is made up of no less than 319 parts assembled on a plate representing an advanced example of openwork. The 45 mm diameter case, in pink or white gold, flashes with 408 baguette-cut diamonds, for a total of approximately 19.99 carats.
All models are stamped with the “Poinçon de Genève”. Faithful to the tradition of excellence that gives the House its reputation, the watches in this exclusive Jewellery line comply with all the latest requirements of the “Poinçon de Genève”. This mark of quality, issued by the Canton of Geneva to a small number of watchmakers, certifies that the watch movement that the watch includes is made by hand, assembled and regulated in Geneva and that it complies with the strict requirements laid down for the watch manufacture. ROGER DUBUIS is today the only watch Manufacture that has all its movements certified with the “Poinçon de Genève” stamp.

These models are available only from the network of ROGER DUBUIS boutiques. This line of Jewellery timepieces is supplied exclusively to ROGER DUBUIS boutiques. Only a small number of watches are available in each country. This exclusive character makes each of these Jewellery watches an extremely sought-after collector’s item.

ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with Single-pusher, Limited Edition

Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with single-pusher model was launched as a tribute to a tribute to the Geneva Seal, which celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2011. This limited edition timepiece is the first ROGER DUBUIS timepiece to meet the new requirements of the Geneva Seal unveiled on 9 November 2011. It is also important to note that, now ROGER DUBUIS is the only watchmaker to have every one of its movements stamped with the Geneva Seal, the pledge of handcrafted excellence.

The Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with single-pusher and power reserve display is equipped with the new RD580 calibre and produced in a limited edition of just 8 pieces, this outstanding model will be the brand’s first timepiece to obtain Geneva Seal certification according to the new, even more demanding specifications. From 2012, all new ROGER DUBUIS models will fulfill the new requirements that must be met before Geneva Seal certification is awarded.
This new Chronograph with Flying Tourbillon and single-pusher, housed in a 45 mm diameter pink-gold case, is the perfect incarnation of the avant-garde spirit that personifies the Genevan Manufacture. In addition to the flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock, the power reserve display at 12 o’clock and the 45-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, this new arrival in the Excalibur collection is distinguished by its platinum micro-rotor, visible from the dial side of the watch. And exceptionally, this oscillating weight bears in full view on its exposed portion the Geneva Seal – normally stamped only on the movement – supplemented on either side with the inscription «125 years».

The Geneva Seal officially came into force in 1886; and in 2011 on its 125th anniversary new requirements outlined. Bestowed by the State of Geneva on a select few watchmakers, it constitutes the official guarantee that the mechanical watch movement is hand-made, assembled and regulated in Geneva and that it respects the strict requirements of handcrafted excellence in watchmaking. Every component of a movement bearing the Seal is hand-finished and finely decorated, even those that are never exposed to view.

The new requirements outlined by the Geneva Seal – unveiled on 9 November 2011 – focus even more closely on customers and their expectations. While the conditions imposed up to now remain unchanged, new requirements now complement them. Principal change: from now on, the entire watch is Geneva Seal certified, no longer the movement alone. In addition, the Geneva Seal now certifies the functions claimed for the watch, for example water-resistance or the power reserve display.

Popular Posts