Monday, September 30, 2013

CSIO Barcelona: Victory for Patrice Delaveau (FRA) at the Longines Cup of the City of Barcelona and the French team at the final stage of the Furusiyya FEI Nations Cup™

It was an exciting highlight at this year’s CSIO Barcelona: French rider Patrice Delaveau on Carinjo HDC won the “Longines Cup of the City of Barcelona” on Friday night. Furthermore, the event included the final stage of the Furusiyya FEI Nations Cup™. With an outstanding performance, the French team defeated the other qualified nations and won the inaugural Furusiyya FEI Nations Cup™ Jumping Final on Sunday. The Swiss watch brand Longines was the official timekeeper of the event and the title partner of the Longines Cup of the City of Barcelona.

It was an exciting week-end at this year’s CSIO Barcelona: During 4 days, the spectators attended extraordinary performances of the world’s best riders and horses topped by a first highlight on Friday night presented by the Swiss watch brand: The Longines Cup of the City of Barcelona. After many breath-taking and exciting moments, Patrice Delaveau (FRA) on Carinjo HDC won the competition. Michael Whitaker finished second with his mare Elie van de Kolmen while Beezie Madden on Cortes ‘C’ reached the third place.
The event was rounded off with another highlight on Sunday: the Furusiyya FEI Nations Cup™ Jumping Final. Longines was the official timekeeper of the competition and attended the victory of the French team. With their outstanding performance they defeated the team from Brazil (2nd) and Ireland (3rd).

A total of 18 nations were represented at the final leg of the series in Barcelona: Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Colombia, France, Great Britain, Ireland, Japan, Netherlands, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine and USA. There were three competitions during the Furusiyya Final - the first on Friday, 27th September in which all teams competed over one round, the second on Saturday 28th for the teams not having finished within the top eight on the previous day and the third in which the leading eight nations battled it out for the brand new Furusiyya trophy on Sunday, 29th September.

The Official Watch of this year’s show jumping event in Barcelona was the new Conquest Classic line which is dedicated to Longines’ involvement in equestrian sports. True to the brand’s values of elegance, tradition and performance, this new collection of models, all fitted with self-winding calibres, is at the same time totally contemporary and perfectly timeless.

SEA-GOD Portorotondo Limited Edition Date & Portorotondo Limited Edition GMT

The Portorotondo Limited Edition collection is inspired by the exclusive Sardinian resort and it is produced in a limited edition: 499 numbered pieces that hold the attention to details and the quality of the materials that Sea-God utilise for each 30 ATM waterproof watches.

The stylized waves and the Trident, which is the sceptre of the sea’s God, Poseidon, are the elements that characterize the logo of the brand and become sought-after details. An intense and deep black enshroud every single component, gives the watch a sporty design that turns into elegance thanks to the contrast between the shiny and the satin effects, which are used for the carrure finishing. The bright red, used for the test “Portorotondo” highlights black enamel of the dial on which stand out the numbers, the bright indices and the skeleton second hands personalised with a red Trident.

The case has a diameter of 46mm, made in 316L steel with black DLC coating on which the brand Sea-God is engraved, encloses the automatic ETA 2824-2 movement. The bezel is stainless steel made and the thread of the titanium screws has the shape of “sea wave”. The bezel is in fifth grade titanium and has a unidirectional rotation. The milled crown has a DLC coating and it is characterized by the improved and patented screwing system.
Portorotondo Limited Edition Date
The dial is protected by a curved sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment on both sides. The case which is enriched by the incision of the Trident is made in 316L steel with black DLC coating and it is clamped with 12 steel screws with the thread that reminds the “sea wave”. An anti-shock system complete the finishing of the timepieces: it protects the watches from fall and absorbs the noise of the rotor and the ticking of the balance wheel.

It is also an aesthetical feature to cover the screws. The black rubber bracelet is reinforced on the side, which allows for fit.
Portorotondo Limited Edition GMT
Technical details
Case: Stainless Steel AISI 316L with black DLC coating and brush polished into three parts, 46mm lens, SeaGod logo engraved on case side at 9, carrure glossy finish on the sides and satin on the top

Top Ring: Stainless Steel with black DLC coating and 12 titanium screws IP Black customized, embedded, polished and blocked Unidirectional rotating, hard titanium with black DLC coating and graduated from 0 to 60

Bezel: Stainless Steel with black DLC coating, knurled screw    and tightened with three seals. Enhanced by black rubber insert customized with trident, protection side wings. The crown is equipped with a special tightening system that allows the Trident to always remain in a vertical position. This enhanced functionality is a Sea-God patent

Dial: Black matt with inscription "Portorotondo" in red, ruthenium indexes with luminescent internal hatching black shade, date window at 3o'clock

Hands: Ruthenium black, skeleton, luminescent and customized Sea-God. Continuous seconds in the center, subsidiary seconds with trident counterweight, 24-hour hand red with end arrow-shaped.

REHAUT: Elevated in titanium

GLASS: 4.6mm thick sapphire lightly convex anti-reflective coating inside

Case-back: Stainless Steel with black DLC coating, tightly packed    with 12 titanium screws 3mm thread    with waves and customized with Trident. On the case back is engraved personalization anti-counterfeiting    and serial number

Movement: Self-winding mechanical, 25 jewels, 25.60 mm diameter. Thickness of 4.60 mm, second stop device, oscillating weight on ball bearing, Glucydur balance  incabloc shockproof, EtaCron with micrometer screw, alternations /hour 28,800, bi-directional winding rotor, 42 hours autonomy. Swiss made.

Strap: Super black rubber, special material specifically designed for Sea-God watches, adjustable customized with Sea-God logo

Buckle: clasp in stainless steel with black DLC coating    and customized Sea-God logo

Water resistance:
Guaranteed up to a pressure of 30 atmospheres or 300 meters

Suggested retail price: 4300 CHF
Ref. 271801AN - 1/499

Also available
Portorotondo Limited Edition GMT (Ref. 271901AN - 1/499)
Portorotondo is available also in limited edition GMT version whose main feature is the 2893-2 ETA movement and the bidirectional 5th grade titanium bezel - Bidirectional rotating, hard titanium with    black    DLC coating and graduated from 0 to 24. Suggested retail price: 5000 CHF

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese HandWound Eight Days (Ref. IW510204/ IW510202/ IW510203)

With its third new Portuguese model for this year, Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen makes another exciting addition to this technically sophisticated watch family. The optical features of the Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days in red gold and stainless steel make it an unmistakable part of this top-quality design line.

The Portuguese watch family from IWC Schaffhausen has one of the longest and far-reaching traditions of them all and is the epitome of clarity, purist elegance and innovation, combined with precision and state-of-the-art mechanics.

At the same time, the Portuguese timepieces hark back to bygone days, when the spirit of discovery drove fearless seafarers to exchange the safety of the harbour for the open seas and to give in to their longing for exploring uncharted territories. The Portuguese watches still carry this gene, this irresistible yearning for travel, to this day. But, above all, this IWC collection with its precision instruments acknowledges ongoing technical development and presents an extensive range of elegant timepieces.

The latest addition to the family is the Portuguese HandWound Eight Days(Ref. IW510204/IW510202/IW510203). It owes its classic look to the new case design twinned with an arched-edge front glass.
The Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days in red gold (Ref. IW510204) with its silver-plated dial, Arabic numerals and the characteristic feuille hands is the essence of simple aesthetics. The signal-red “60” in the seconds dial is a small, but attractive detail.
The sister models in stainless steel feature a black (Ref. IW510202) or silver-plated dial (Ref. IW510203) with rhodium-plated numerals and hands.
Features common to both include the typical railway-track-style chapter ring and the IWC manufactured 59215 calibre. This movement, a member of the 59000-calibre family, is a modern design featuring conspicuous bridges and plates and guarantees the high level of ruggedness and reliability required in a watch designed for everyday use. In addition to this, the watch has a very long power reserve, allowing it to run for exactly 192 hours – or 8 days – without needing to be rewound.
Precisely how much time remains before the owner needs to wind the crown can be read off the power reserve display visible through the sapphire-glass back on the reverse side of the watch. This sophisticated arrangement ensures that the dial retains its uncluttered, purist clarity.

Leather straps made by Italian luxury shoe manufacturer Santoni underscore the unusual character of the new Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days. The versions in stainless steel are fitted with black straps, while the red gold model comes with a strap in dark brown.

Technical details
Model: Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days
Ref. IW510204 • IW510202 • IW510203

Features
Mechanical movement
Hand-wound
8-day power reserve when fully wound
Indexless balance with 4 golden weight screws on the balance rim
Breguet spring
Small hacking seconds
Date display
Power reserve display on the case back

Movement
Calibre: 59215
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 8 days (192 h)
Winding: hand-wound

Case, dial & strap
Ref. IW510204: case and numerals in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown Santoni alligator leather strap, pin buckle in 18-carat red gold
Ref. IW510202: stainless-steel case, black dial, rhodium-plated hands and numerals, black Santoni alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
Ref. IW510203: stainless-steel case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and numerals, black Santoni alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel

Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: transparent sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43 mm
Case height : 12 mm

Shackleton Epic & Thomas Mercer Partner to Create a Limited Edition of The New Legacy Marine Chronometer

Thomas Mercer and Shackleton Epic will be working together on the release of a limited edition of the Legacy, the new Thomas Mercer marine chronometer. The history of Thomas Mercer has been indelibly linked to Sir Ernest Shackleton since it was a Mercer chronometer he used on the James Caird voyage, generally considered the greatest small boat journey of all time.

Thomas Mercer Legacy Shackleton Epic Limited Edition
The Legacy Shackleton Epic limited edition marine chronometer, of which only 25 will be made, is set to become the symbol of the re-born Thomas Mercer as it redefines the marine chronometer in the 21st century, combining precision engineering and mechanical perfection with superb design and innovation. The name Legacy truly bears witness to a dashing heritage of more than 150 years, propelled into the future by incorporating the latest design styles and innovative horological ideas.
Shackleton Epic is the official centenary expedition honouring Sir Ernest hackleton’s voyage of survival considered the greatest small-boat journey of all time. Nearly a century after Shackletonʹs expedition, a team of six, led by Australian environmental scientist Tim Jarvis, set sail from Elephant Island to navigate 800 nautical miles of the treacherous Southern Ocean to South Georgia using traditional supply, equipment and technology including a Thomas Mercer vintage chronometer on which they safely relied for determining longitude.

To celebrate this great feat in navigation - which is indelibly linked to the brand’s history - the Thomas Mercer Legacy will debut with an exclusive limited edition featuring a fine dial on which the map of the Southern Ocean and the original voyage of 1916 and its re-enactment of 2013 are depicted.
Shackleton Epic Map. Credit Royal Geographic Society Shackleton Epic
The Legacy lovingly blends the most sophisticated and modern design with the attributes of Britishness and affinity with the sea - attributes that have set apart the name of Thomas Mercer from all others since 1858. Like every Thomas Mercer, the new chronometer embraces the best of British luxury values, painstaking design and craftsmanship, an incomparable style and a real appreciation for the finest things in life.
The rhodium plated dial, obtained through a bas-relief process and finished with a stunning grené effect, features the Southern Ocean map on which the 1916 original voyage of Sir Shackleton and its re-enactment in 2013 are both represented.
The case displays an unusual asymmetrical body of AISI 316 stainless steel with precious elements in high gloss finish Ziricote adorned with fine metal settings which make this timepiece an incomparable fusion of advanced machining techniques and finest cabinet making.
As further touch of incomparability, the signature of the Hon. Alexandra Shackleton and Tim Jarvis AM FRGS -respectively patron and leader of the centenary expedition.
Synonymous with her exquisite casing, the Legacy contains the most beautiful of mechanisms. Visible from the dial, the escapement, the beating heart of the timekeeper, comes in its par excellence form, the Spring Detent.
A unique feature of the Legacy chronometer is the gimbals suspension that allows the movement to remain horizontal regardless of the motion of the ship - ideal for achieving maximum accuracy.
A specifically designed lever allows the movement case to be locked in its reverse position, so that the exquisite mechanism can be clearly seen and admired from the face of the timepiece.
The James Caird Voyage and Shackleton Epic

In order to save the lives of the 27 men stranded with him in the Antarctic pack ice for over a year after the loss of their ship Endurance, Shackleton embarked on an odyssey across 800 nautical miles of the most challenging and treacherous seas on the planet - the Southern Ocean - sailing from Elephant Island to South Georgia aboard the James Caird, a 22.5ft whaler.

In 2008, the Hon. Alexandra Shackleton, granddaughter of Sir Ernest, approached world renowned British/Australian adventurer Tim Jarvis AM FRGS with an inspired idea - an expedition to mark the centenary of one of the greatest ever stories of leadership and survival.
Alexandra Shackleton sailing. Image Ed Wardle Shackleton Epic
So in January 2013, Jarvis and his exceptional team of five set sail to become the first to authentically retrace that hazardous voyage. The Hon. Alexandra Shackleton, patron, commented on this unique achievement: “The Shackleton Epic is a story of triumph. Tim Jarvis and his companions of the S.E. have successfully recreated my grandfather Sir Ernest’s 1916 voyage in the tiny James Caird (crossing 800 nautical miles from Elephant Island to South Georgia over the stormiest seas in the world and subsequently climbing over the mountainous unmapped interior of South Georgia as he did). Tim had the imagination to see that the expedition’s use of period clothing, food and navigational equipment would bring them physically as well as spiritually closer to the spirit of Ernest Shackleton and I commend them for that. I was reunited with Tim and the team in South Georgia immediately after the expedition and we drank a toast to Ernest Shackleton at his grave. It was a great moment for a very proud patron.”
Shackleton Epic and Thomas Mercer: The Partnership
Both Shackleton’s original of 1916 and its courageous re-enactment a century later relied on the accuracy of a Thomas Mercer chronometer for safely navigating across the Antarctic Ocean. To celebrate this incredible achievement of the modern age, as well as to reinforce its enduring tie with this glorious page of British history, Thomas Mercer is partnering with Shackleton Epic to create a very limited edition of the new Legacy marine chronometer.
Navigational instruments used by Shackleton Epic Expedition - photo by Seb Coulthard
Tim Jarvis, leader of Shackleton Epic, adds: “I am very proud to have led such a strong team able to accomplish this historic achievement - without doubt one of the greatest feats of endurance and maritime navigation when Shackleton and his crew achieved it almost 100 years ago.

Without precise navigation, however, even the best team is rendered powerless. Thomas Mercer chronometers were used on both expeditions allowing both teams to safely navigate across the roughest ocean in the world to arrive at King Haakon Bay almost 100 years apart and it is in no small part down to Thomas Mercer that they were able to do so. Perhaps the famous words written of Shackleton at the time For speed across the ice give me Amundsen, for scientific research there is Scott, but in times of trouble pray God for Shackleton should have included the words and his Thomas Mercer chronometer”.

Alessandro Quintavalle, Thomas Mercer’s CEO, says: “With the Shackleton Epic, Tim has accomplished a truly heroic feat, adding yet another success to his unparalleled track record. Jarvis’ achievement demonstrates not only how unsurpassed was Shackleton’s contribution to the story of mankind, but also how relevant his message remains in 2013. We are honoured that Thomas Mercer chronometers supported both voyages and we eagerly anticipate further collaboration”.

The Legacy marine chronometer Shackleton Epic Edition was presented in preview to the press on the 27th-28th of September 2013, at the Hotel Hermitage - Salon Jardin d’Hiver -during the Monaco Yacht Show in Monte Carlo.

About Shackleton Epic
Shackleton Epic is the first expedition to faithfully re-enacted Sir Ernest Shackleton’s treacherous boat voyage from Elephant Island to South Georgia, followed by the difficult crossing of its mountainous interior. Lead by British/Australian adventurer Tim Jarvis, 47, a veteran of multiple polar expeditions, the team of six includes Skipper Nick Bubb, Mountain Leader WO2 Barry Gray RM, Sailor and Navigator Paul Larsen, Expedition Bosun 2nd Petty Officer Seb Coulthard RN FRGS, Expedition Cameraman Ed Wardle.
The crew of Alexandra Shackleton onshore at South Georgia cheer their successful completion of leg 1 of their historic re-enactment. Image Jo Stewart Shackleton Epic
The Shackleton Epic expedition sailed Alexandra Shackleton, a purpose-built exact replica of Shackleton’s James Caird, named for Shackleton Epic’s patron and granddaughter of Sir Ernest, from Elephant Island to South Georgia using only 1916 equipment and without assistance from modern navigation aids or any 21st century gear. Joining presenting partner Intrepid Travel is Shackleton Epic’s major sponsor, global engineering firm Arup. Promoting international biodiversity, Shackleton Epic’s conservation partner is Fauna & Flora International (FFI).
Thomas Mercer Chronometer used by Shackleton Epic - photo by Seb Coulthard
About Thomas Mercer
Thomas Mercer is a British based company established London in 1858, its name forever synonymous with the marine chronometer, being the largest manufacturer in history. Among the most noteworthy chronometers are No. 8306 - winner of the 1911 Greenwich Trials - and 5229, used by Sir Ernest Shackleton in 1916 throughout his epic open boat journey on the James Caird during the Imperial Trans-Antartic Expedition. At the top end of Mercer production there were several chronometers made for the Royal Family, as well as those that equipped the Cunard Queen Mary.
Thomas Mercer Classis by Andrew Winch Designs (2012)
In 2012 the company was relaunched with the vision of creating the world’s finest marine chronometers, where the most sophisticated and modern design meets the attributes of Britishness and affinity with the sea to create cutting edge timekeepers that will be as individual as their Owners.

About Intrepid Travel
Intrepid Travel is one of the world's leading small group adventure tour operators. It offers authentic and fun experiences that give travellers the chance to get under the skin of the places they visit, with more than 1,000 itineraries to more than 100 countries worldwide. Intrepid Travel trips are designed to go off the beaten track, meet the locals and travel in an unconventional way, joining locals on their transport, in their markets and even in their homes.

Thomas Mercer ‘Legacy’ Marine Chronometer
Technical Specifications


Case
Material: AISI 316 stainless steel
Finish: Hand polished
Suspension: Double gimbals, counterbalance free and double lock
Glasses: Extra-white crystal

Dimensions
Base diameter: 316mm; Top ring diameter: 268mm; Height: 227mm

Wooden Base and Settings
Main: Timber Ziricote
Finish: A/C lacquer 90% sheen, full grain finish, burnished

Dial
Material: Solid brass
Technique: Bas-relief (hour ring, main body, power-reserve indicator counter)
Finish: Rhodium electroplating, dial mask featuring grenè technique
Setting: Hour ring in Ziricote and Roman applique numerals
Hands: Blued steel, handmade

Mechanism
Calibre TM0801
Power Reserve: 8 days
Escapement: Spring Detent
Oscillator: Ovalising balance with cylindrical weights
Drive: Mechanical spring with Fusee and Steel chain system
Frequency: 14.400 bph
Jewels: 17
Functions: Hour, minute, second
Indications: Power reserve indicator at 12, small seconds with visible escapement at 6
Finish: Rhodium plated
Dimensions - Diameter: 160mm ; Height: 100mm

ELAQSA - Fine Swiss Made Watches with Moroccan Spirit

ELAQSA is a new entrant to the luxury watch making world. This vibrant watch brand is established by Zrhari Fouad, a young and passionate watchmaker from Morocco who is also the current president director and CEO of ELAQSA Watches. This Franco-Moroccan watchmaker runs his own luxury watch repairing shops and inspired from his past working experiences with some of the major Swiss watch companies like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis and Franck Muller; Zrhari Fouad decided to create his own watch brand - ELAQSA, the first luxury watch brand in Morocca.
ELAQSA offers Swiss made watches which carry Moroccan spirit. The brand is set to Casablanca in Morocco, but the production facilities are located in the Valais in Switzerland. The watches are signed an Arabic calligraphy on the dial. The ELAQSA watches are available in limited edition original versions and customisation options are also possible utilizing precious materials such as gold, platinum or diamonds. The Tonneau shaped ELAQSA watches are very comfortable to wear and can be used as a daily wear timepiece.
The ELAQSA watches are powered with Swiss ETA automatic movements which can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. The watches are available with diamond studded indexes and the numerals 3, 6, 9 and 12 are stamped with corresponding Arabic language numerals.
A date window is positioned at 4’o clock. The strap is hand-sewn crocodile.  ELAQSA watch models boast a water resistance up to 30 meters.

ELAQSA watches can be purchased online at http://www.elaqsa.com

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Valerii Danevych - Miniature Wooden Timepieces from Ukraine

Based in Ukraine, Valerii Danevych is a craftsman turned artisanal watch maker who is specialized in the manufacturing of miniature wooden timepieces such as clocks and wristwatches made of wood. Top performances of his artworks: Till now the only both wooden wristwatches worldwide, one of them with flying Tourbillon, as well as the probably smallest wooden timepiece of the world, a necklace watch.
Valerii Danevych was born in 1968 in the capital of the Ukraine, Kiev. He has descended from a family which has been marked since generations by cabinet-maker's workshop where he already made during his school days wooden miniatures like an only 3 cm guitar with hair as strings. As a qualified precision joiner working with wooden constructions, restorations or artisan articles did not give him any more satisfaction. The feeling and ambition to manufacture complicated mechanical crafts completely from wood in miniature form was always on his mind.
In 2005 so he had the idea to make clockworks out of this material with out being educated as a watchmaker. His talent and perseverance motivated him to produce among many art works the only functioning wooden wristwatches worldwide. Also such complications like a flying Tourbillon, which is even difficult in conventional technology, were not deter him.  There was a career jump in 2012 when he was appointed the official candidate of the famous association of independent and creative watch and clock makers all around the world (AHCI).
Valerii Danevych - Chronology of horologic activities
  • In 2004 repair and restoration of wooden cases for clocks
  • Since 2005 planning, development and manufacturing of wooden movements, first for clocks then for watches; self-educated in horologic technology
  • Manufacturing of maximum 3 to 4 watches per year purely handmade; used materials are primarily degenerated wood (canker with amorphous structure) from birch, hornbeam, apple as well as exotic species of wood
  • Mainly self-producing of fine tools, miniature lathes and auxiliary devices for manufacturing watches
  • Long-term exhibition of a table clock as well as a pocket watch from wood in the Ukrainian national museum in Kiev, Ukraine, since February 2010
  • Exhibition of two wooden pocket watches in Washington, USA, in May 2010, during the Ukrainian Days of Culture
  • Participation on watch markets in Eisenbach and Furtwangen, Black Forest, since 2010
  • Participation on a horological seminar in Titisee, Black Forest, in March 2011
  • Presentation of clock and watch works in Kiev, Ukraine, in May 2011 during a study trip of the German Chronometric Society Inc.
  • Restoration of an antique wooden pocket watch of Bronnikov in first half of 2011 for a businessman from Austria
  • Exhibition of two wooden pocket watches in Illnau, Switzerland, in autumn 2011
  • Presentation of wooden watches in Hamburg, March 2012, during the regional meeting of the German Chronometric Society Inc.
  • Participation on the world fair for watches and jewellery BASELWORLD in Basel, Switzerland, in March 2012 at the stand of the Académie Horlogère of The Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI)
  • Election as official candidate of AHCI during the AHCI general meeting at BASELWORLD 2012
  • History report on life and work of Bronnikov dynasty in the club magazine of German Chronometric Society Inc., dated spring 2012
Contact details
Valerii Danevych
U. Smolycha 6-W/44
03191 Kiev     
Ukraine

Website: http://danevych.com/en/



Interview with Valerii Danevych
How did you get around producing watches and clocks from wood?
  • When I worked as a cabinet-maker, I have repaired cases of wall clocks and grandfather clocks and I have restored too. During these activities my interest increased in the mechanics of these clocks. I tried easy repair in it and had the need to build an own clock completely from the movement up to the case. Without equipment for these mechanics and without experience in the metal treatment, but with good knowledge about the qualities of the different species of wood and large experience in the wood processing I ventured the manufacture of wooden movement for a grandfather clock without use of metal parts. After some misses my first grandfather clock came into being. Motivated by this success I continued the construction of wooden clocks and watches, but smaller and more complicated.
Does this art/craft have tradition in Russia or the Ukraine? Are there other countries where this is practiced?
  • As far as I know no one else deals in my country with this art. The tradition of wooden watchmaking comes from Russia of the early 19th century where the Bronnikov Dynasty has lived and created pocket watches. But so far I know nobody, who manufactures watches completely out of wood or has made, so also the pinions, arbors and pivots. Of course Germany is a country of great wood tradition by the Black Forest Clocks.
What is to be followed during the wood processing and with the production process of these parts particularly? What is difficult especially?
  • Special attention is laid on the careful dry of the material and the specific choice of the single components. This also contains all qualities of wood and all distinctives of different wood species with craft finishing depending on their.
What are you fascinated about this work mostly?
  • So I have found my favorite work. I like the process of experimentation and new challenges, miniaturization and complex working have great attraction for me. When I finish a timepiece, the most thrilling moment for me is their stimulation.
Are the clocks and watches with their mechanism made entirely of wood, not any metal parts?
  • The weight driven clocks completely consist of wood, even the weights. For the spring driven watches the hairspring and the mainspring are of metal because of understandable physical reasons. Also a crystal protects the mechanism of some watches.
Can you live on it, do these watches sell? Where and how? Which strategy must one use on customers to persuade them of purchase?
  • At the moment this is more hobby than living. I have good friends who support me and help me to become known in Europe. Some watches I have sold quite privately (USA, Western Europe and Israel), two timepieces deposited in the Ukrainian National Museum in Kiev and other watches are presented on fairs and exhibitions.
Are these clocks and watches affordable, how expensive are they?
  • My timepieces - an exclusive job on base of pure handmade, partially under microscope - cannot afford so them everybody. The price orientates to the long production time and also to the exclusive proposition and the artistic claim like every work of art. I work alone and manufacture no more than 3 or 4 timepieces a year.
What kind of wood do you use? How about reasons of use, characteristics, advantages, disadvantages?
  • The basic material for the movement is birch-grain bulb with an amorphous structure, no preferential fiber direction, to be petrified. Thereby this material is tight relative to normal wood and rather insensitive against environmental factors. Also I use grain bulb of other species of wood (apple, beech, cherry) as well as other wood like juniper from the Crimea region, bamboo and Australian guaiacum, sometimes mammoth's tusk. Some design elements exist of mother-of-pearl and amber.
Are these movements mechanical only? Must they wind up by hand, how exact are they running? Which type of watches and clocks do you build?
  • I only manufacture mechanical timepieces by spring or weight driven. During my works they became more and more exact – now the accuracy is about 2-3 minutes per day and 1 minute for the pendulum clocks respectively. I'm tempted to produce wooden clocks and watches of different type, size and complexity. Referring to miniaturization I have reached by manufacturing wristwatches the same level like watches from metal.
How about the durability and reliability of such wooden clocks and watches?
  • Of course the strength of wood is not the same like metal, so especially wooden wristwatches are not recommended for hard daily use. Because of wood applied so far as possible they are not shockproof so right.  But for special causes you can wear it like a normal metal watch with satisfied accuracy or easily for collection of very rare and exceptional timepieces. Concerning reliability and life there is no problem so as pocket watches of the Bronnikov Dynasty or old Black Forest Clocks work till today by little maintenance.
What are other specific features of your timepieces?
  • Everything is 100% handmade and unique artwork. By myself I go in search of local wood into the forest and pick up this and that. I also produce the fine tools for manufacturing small watch parts by mainly myself. The smallest wooden part for one of my watches is of only 0.1 mm diameter.
 Which projects, ideas do you have for the future?
  • I am full of ideas and get suggestions by the study of unusual watches or more special mechanical instruments. I wish that my next timepiece surprises everybody, above all myself. I do it because I like it! And if somebody else likes this, it satisfies me very much and motivates me to other top masterpieces of wood!

Vacheron Constantin – New Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis Triology (Angel, Lizard & Horsemen) – Inspired by the work of Dutch artist Cornelis Escher

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Vacheron Constantin unveils its second series in the Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis collection, inspired by the work of the Dutch artist Maurits Cornelis Escher.

Representing the second chapter in a collection presented in 2012 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, the new Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis creations, inspired by the work of Dutch artist Cornelis Escher, pursue this glowing tribute to the graphic art of tessellation.
Vividly expressing the creativity of the Master Craftsmen whose skills are so greatly valued by the Manufacture, they illustrate the ties between watchmaking and culture that Vacheron Constantin has been perpetuating ever since it’s founding. At the crossroads between past, present and future, these timepieces embody the challenges taken up by the artisans of Vacheron Constantin and governed by a combination of talent, discipline and instinct.

Representing a symbiosis of several crafts, the new Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis trilogy uses the technique of periodic paving to create a strikingly hypnotic effect. Another skill highlighted by Vacheron Constantin, go ld and mother-of-pearl marquetry, is associated with those of engraving, enamelling, gemsetting and guilloche work to create trompe l’oeil dials featuring infinitely entwined elements of geometry, movement and symbolism.
The space on the dials is filled with perfectly interlocking repetitive motifs, thereby creating a world of optimal illusion and perspective, beautifully framed by a white gold case. The slender bezel ensures a maximum dial opening, while the elegant hands are hollowed so as to provide full expressive scope for the art of tessellation.

The Hallmark of Geneva certified watches are driven by Calibre 2460, a mechanical self-winding movement entirely developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin.
In addition to its reliability, it bears manual finishes performed in keeping with the finest Fine Watchmaking traditions. The polished angles, hand-drawn flanks, circular-grained mainplate, bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and the gold oscillating weight featuring the elegant crossweave guilloché pattern, are all clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.

Angel Watch
Engraving, guilloché work and Grand Feu enamel: On the dial of this fascinating model, angels and demons face off in a contrast that is both symbolic and aesthetic. The former are in light, the latter in darkness, yet neither side appears to prevail over the other.
Inspired by research conducted by Maurits Cornelis Escher on the “circular boundary” – involving décor composed of infinitely multiplied elements radiating out from a central point – the watch portrays these respective figures through a subtle combination of the arts of engraving, enamelling and guilloché work, skilfully playing on depth and shimmering mirror-like effects.
Working with a white gold base, the engraver first traces the outlines of the figures and then hollows them out as cells using the champlevé technique. Next comes the copperplate engraving that defines the details of the demons. The enameller fills the cavities thus hollowed out, an operation requiring infinite precision in that the repetitive symmetry of the pattern simply cannot tolerate even the tiniest flaw.
After several firings in the kiln, during which the grey and blue colours are progressively set in place, the artisan applies a final layer of translucent enamel to the imps in order to accentuate the depth of the engraved motifs. The guillocheur then moves into action to craft the angel robes and wings by patiently incising the colourful material. It is extremely rare that guilloché work on an enamelled model is done as the last phase, precisely due to the extreme complexity of such an operation, since any slip of the tool could jeopardise the precious work of an entire team of artisans.

Lizard watch
Engraving, Grand Feu enamelling, gemsetting and guilloché work: Red, brown, gemset or silver-toned, the lizards take over the dial to create a captivatingly animated effect. Inspired by one of the Dutch artist’s lithographs named Reptiles, the watch springs to life beneath the intermingled effect of four ancestral decorative arts.

The engraver begins his work by hollowing out the motifs from a yellow gold base. The enameller then fills in the lizards heading southwards with a taupe –coloured enamel, while those going west are coated in crimson red.
The gemsetter then chooses to adorn the coats of certain reptiles with round-cut diamonds and finally, the master guillocheur dextrously enlivens the remaining lizards by highlighting their tiny scales measuring just a few tenths of a millimetre.

Horsemen watch
Engraving meets gold and mother-of-pearl marquetry: The majestic Ottoman horsemen with their inimitably proud bearing straddle the dial crafted in a superb gold and mother-of-pearl marquetry pattern. The shimmering colours of the materials mingle in perfect harmony.
The art of marquetry has been practised since time immemorial. The Egyptians used it in the form of precious stones and ivory inlaid into cosmetic cases and furniture. In the Middle Ages, Venice and the Byzantine empire exported luxury objects to the West featuring black and white geometrical motifs created by inlaying gold, ivory or mother-of-pearl into wooden veneers in a subtle range of lighter to darker shades.
The marquetry artist crafts a particularly complex object by adjusting two diametrically opposing materials. Each horseman is first cut out from gold and mother-of-pearl before being meticulously assembled, like a puzzle, on a gold base. There are no visible gaps between the figures – a tough challenge indeed within such a small space.
Mother-of-pearl calls for extreme attention, since it is extremely fragile and must feature the perfect combination of thickness, specific colours and shapes, smoothly combining curves and straight lines in order to follow the lines of its gold counterpart. At the end of the process, the engraver perfects the horsemen and horses by hollowing out the details of their anatomy.

The art of tessellation
Born in the mists of time and named after the Latin word tessela, meaning paving stone or tile, the art of tessellation – or paving – spans many civilisations and cultures. It consists of small interlocking squares forming a motif that occupies the entire space of a picture without leaving any gaps, tessellations cover floors, walls and ceilings to form subtle geometrical landscapes.

From 4000 B.C, this mosaic technique adopted by the Sumerians, a people of Mesopotamia. While the Romans also made it one of the main decorative motifs in their architecture, it was doubtless the Moors who raised this technique to an authentic art form in the period stretching from 700 to 1500 AD, since the Islamic religion forbade them from representing human beings and any real objects.

This technique has also proved interesting for mathematicians, who have viewed it as an artistic expression of their science and their logic. Such scholars include Archimedes, the famous Greek scientist from the 1 st century B.C., who studied geometrical paving; as well as the astronomer Johannes Kleper, who presented a certain number of polygonal tessellations in his work entitled Harmonice Mundi. More recently, artists Bridget Riley and Victor Vasarely have drawn inspiration from this art of which Maurits Cornelis Escher is undoubtedly one of the most famous contemporary exponents.

Maurits Cornelis Escher
Dutch graphic artist and engraver Maurits Cornelis Escher (1898-1972) based his work upon subtle plays on architecture, perspective and space. Admirably associating perfect execution and imagination, he was a past master in the art of toying with visual senses and even reason in order to invent new spatial representations and worlds that exist only on flat surfaces.

His travels to Spain instilled in him a passion for the paving technique of which he saw some remarkable examples in the Moorish tiles of the Alhambra in Grenada, and the Cordoba Mosque. Comprising a strong mathematical element, his work lies on the borderline between art and science. For the artist, the possibility of replacing the abstract geometrical shapes of the motifs by figurative designs became a genuine passion and an infinite source of inspiration.

Technical details

Collection: Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis (Second Series)
Models references
86222/000G-9804 (Angel watch)
86222/000G-9834 (Lizard watch)
86222/000G-9833 (Horseman watch)
Timepieces certified by the Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Calibre 2460 SC, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
26.20 mm (11’’’ ¼) diameter
3.60 mm thick
22K gold rotor
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)
182 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Center seconds

Case
18K white gold
40 mm diameter, 8.90 mm thick
Transparent, sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistance tested at a pressure equivalent to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial 
Or 18K
Angel watch: Hand-guilloché, hand-engraving and “Grand Feu” enamelling
Lizard watch: Hand-guilloché, hand-engraving, diamond-setting and « Grand Feu » enamelling
Horseman watch: Hand-engraved mother-of-pearl and gold Marqueterie

Bracelet
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K white gold buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Edition
Limited edition of 20 individually numbered pieces for each model
“N°X/20” and “© The M.C. Escher Company B.V.” engraved on the back of the case
Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec

Carl F. Bucherer dedicates its new timepiece – the Patravi ScubaTec – to those who love diving and ocean sports. This extremely robust, high precise and legible timepiece is most suited for deep sea diving.

Integrated into the 44.6 mm stainless steel case is the CFB 1950.1 automatic caliber, the accuracy of which is certified by a C.O.S.C. To ensure safety in measuring the duration of a dive, the bezel of the Patravi ScubaTec can only be rotated counterclockwise, so that the diver’s safety is guaranteed in the event of any accidental manipulation.

The generously proportioned dial of the three-hand watch guarantees fast and accurate readability. Even in murky waters, the diver will still be able to tell the time, because the hands and markers are coated with super luminova material that glows light blue in the dark. The black dial is well protected by a sapphire crystal almost 4 mm thick. In addition, a helium valve ensures that, when the diver is descending and ascending in the diving bell, the gas escapes automatically so that the case will not be damaged.
The distinctive design of the Patravi ScubaTec already indicates its function as a diver’s watch. The glowing blue markers, the marking on the first quarter of the bezel, and the notch of the same color on the crown are symbolic of the sea. An extraordinary design detail is to be found on the back of the timepiece, where two manta rays are depicted in relief with a 3D effect. The bracelet of shiny and matt stainless steel creates a fascinating interplay of light and shadow, even when on land, recalling the shimmering surface of the sea.

The unique combination of steel and two ceramic colors on the bezel is set against a background in a sporty ceramic blue shade that has been exclusively created for Carl F. Bucherer.

The integrated bracelet extension makes the length of the bracelet individually adjustable, so that the Patravi ScubaTec is suitable for wearing over a diving suit as well as for everyday use.

Technical details
Reference number: 00.10632.23.33.21
Movement: automatic, CFB 1950.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.6 or 4.8 mm, 25 or 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
Functions: date, hours, minutes, seconds
Case: stainless steel, steel/ceramic bezel, automatic helium valve, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 500 m (50 atm), diameter 44,6 mm, height 13.45 mm
Strap: stainless steel, diving clasp stainless steel
Variants: 00.10632.23.33.01 with rubber strap

A. Lange & Söhne - Saxonia Automatic Outsize Date

A. Lange & Söhne presents the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE with the legendary Sax-0-Matcalibre in an exclusive pink-gold edition. Limited to 25 watches, the special model is available only at the eleven international A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques.

Endowed with persuasive intrinsic values, the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE pays tribute to the traditions of Saxon watchmaking artistry. The double aperture outsize date, a widely recognised brand metaphor, graces its eye-catching dial. Down to the very last detail, this timepiece transports the values of Saxony’s watchmaking heritage to the present day.
Its design reflects the elegant sleekness that characterises all members of the Saxonia watch family: An extraordinary movement is accommodated in the pink-gold case of the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE: Lange’s famous Sax-0-Mat manufacture calibre. The name is composed of “Saxonia” (the Latin word for Saxony), “zero”, and “automatic”. The zero stands for the ingenious Zero-Reset mechanism. It causes the seconds hand to instantaneously jump to the 12 o’clock position when the crown is pulled. This very useful function makes synchronising the watch extremely easy.
The automatic winder is another noteworthy feature: The delicately embossed rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass efficiently winds the watch in both directions thanks to a reduction gear. Four ball bearings assure that a sufficient amount of mainspring power is quickly built up even on a quiet day at the office or on a leisurely holiday. All of the details of the meticulously finished movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The three-quarter rotor reveals the escapement with the classic screw balance, the hand-engraved balance cock, and the whiplash precision index adjuster.

The special edition of the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE is limited to 25 watches. They are reserved for customers of the eleven A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques around the world.

Technical details
Model: SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE
Ref. 308.047
Limited edition: 25 watches

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L921.4 “SAX-0-MAT”, self-winding,  crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards,  decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five  positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver with integrated three-quarter rotor made of 21-carat gold,  platinum centrifugal mass, reversing and reduction gear with  four ball bearings; balance cock engraved by hand.

Movement parts: 378
Jewels: 45
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance; Nivarox® hairspring; frequency  21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash precision index  adjuster and patented precision beat adjustment system
Power reserve: 46 hours when fully wound
Dimensions: Diameter: 30.4 millimetres; height: 5.6 millimetres

Functions 
Time indicated in hours and minutes; subsidiary seconds with  stop seconds and ZERO-RESET mechanism, outsize date

Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, correction  push piece for advancing the outsize date

Cas, dial and strap
Dimensions: Diameter: 37.0 millimetres; height: 9.7 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Case: Pink gold
Dial: Solid silver, argenté
Hands: Pink gold
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, reddish-brown
Buckle: Lange prong buckle in pink gold

A. Lange & Söhne - Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

German Watchmaking Legend A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, an exceptional timepiece that combines two classic complications (Tourbillon & Perpetual Calendar) with the typical design of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous wristwatch: the Lange 1. This haute horology timepiece  is available in a special Handwerkskunst edition limited to 15 timepieces. This new timepiece incorporates the complexity of Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar and beauty of Lange Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst models launched in 2012 and leverages the entire spectrum of artisanal skills mastered by the eminent Saxon manufactory.
Intelligently arranged around the time indications, the calendar displays with the patented peripheral month ring deliver a host of information at a single glance: date, day, month, leap year, and moon phase. A decisive asset: all perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously.
They are so harmoniously integrated in the dial architecture that it takes a second look to grasp the technical complexity of this horological masterpiece. To assure crisp legibility, the refined tourbillon mechanism with the patented stop function can be observed only on the caseback side.
The dial is crafted from solid white gold and in this special edition is decorated with a rare combination of tremblage and relief engraving techniques. 


The manual work involved extends into the realm of the smallest details: For the first time in a Lange timepiece, the blue numerals of the outsize date display are hand-painted.
The epithet Handwerkskunst also applies to the decorations of the manufacture calibre L082.1 without reservation. They are the traditional counterpoints to the avant-garde calibre design innovations. The relief-engraved tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks frame the tourbillon ensemble with the patented stop seconds feature. The same free-hand engraving technique is used to decorate the large central rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass. Each of the three train bridges is embellished with solarisation. The specular polish on the upper side of the tourbillon cage is also a typical Lange quality hallmark. Four screwed gold chatons and a diamond endstone bearing for the tourbillion are the grand finale of Lange’s “Handwerkskunst” extravaganza.
A 41.9-millimetre platinum case is the fitting highlight of this composition of precious metals. The A. Lange & Söhne signature and the case and edition serial numbers on the caseback are hand-engraved.

This exclusive collectors’ item was unveiled in September 2013 at the “Watches & Wonders” Haute Horlogerie Exhibition in Hong Kong. It comes in a limited edition of 15 watches that will be available exclusively through the eleven international A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques.
Technical details
Model: LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST 
Ref. 720.048
Limited edition of 15 watches

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L082.1, self-winding, crafted to the  most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and  assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates  and bridges made of untreated German silver; central element  of the unidirectional winding rotor in 21-carat gold, platinum  centrifugal mass; rotor as well as tourbillon and intermediatewheel cocks engraved by hand with the relief technique

Movement parts: 624
Jewels: 76, including one diamond endstone
Screwed gold chatons: 5
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights;  superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house,  frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 50 hours when fully wound
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 34.1 millimetres; height: 7.8 millimetres

Functions 

Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds.
Tourbillon with patented stop-seconds mechanism; perpetual  calendar with outsize date, day of week, month, and leap year;  day/night indication; moon-phase display

Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; recessed  push pieces for collectively advancing all calendar indications or  for individually correcting the month, the day of week, and the  moon phase

Case, dial & strap

Dimensions: Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.2 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Case: Platinum
Dial: White gold, rhodié; hand-engraved with the relief and  tremblage techniques; blue numerals of the outsize date  painted by hand
Hands: Rhodiumed gold
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in platinum

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