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Monday, September 30, 2013

SEA-GOD Portorotondo Limited Edition Date & Portorotondo Limited Edition GMT

The Portorotondo Limited Edition collection is inspired by the exclusive Sardinian resort and it is produced in a limited edition: 499 numbered pieces that hold the attention to details and the quality of the materials that Sea-God utilise for each 30 ATM waterproof watches.

The stylized waves and the Trident, which is the sceptre of the sea’s God, Poseidon, are the elements that characterize the logo of the brand and become sought-after details. An intense and deep black enshroud every single component, gives the watch a sporty design that turns into elegance thanks to the contrast between the shiny and the satin effects, which are used for the carrure finishing. The bright red, used for the test “Portorotondo” highlights black enamel of the dial on which stand out the numbers, the bright indices and the skeleton second hands personalised with a red Trident.

The case has a diameter of 46mm, made in 316L steel with black DLC coating on which the brand Sea-God is engraved, encloses the automatic ETA 2824-2 movement. The bezel is stainless steel made and the thread of the titanium screws has the shape of “sea wave”. The bezel is in fifth grade titanium and has a unidirectional rotation. The milled crown has a DLC coating and it is characterized by the improved and patented screwing system.
Portorotondo Limited Edition Date
The dial is protected by a curved sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment on both sides. The case which is enriched by the incision of the Trident is made in 316L steel with black DLC coating and it is clamped with 12 steel screws with the thread that reminds the “sea wave”. An anti-shock system complete the finishing of the timepieces: it protects the watches from fall and absorbs the noise of the rotor and the ticking of the balance wheel.

It is also an aesthetical feature to cover the screws. The black rubber bracelet is reinforced on the side, which allows for fit.
Portorotondo Limited Edition GMT
Technical details
Case: Stainless Steel AISI 316L with black DLC coating and brush polished into three parts, 46mm lens, SeaGod logo engraved on case side at 9, carrure glossy finish on the sides and satin on the top

Top Ring: Stainless Steel with black DLC coating and 12 titanium screws IP Black customized, embedded, polished and blocked Unidirectional rotating, hard titanium with black DLC coating and graduated from 0 to 60

Bezel: Stainless Steel with black DLC coating, knurled screw    and tightened with three seals. Enhanced by black rubber insert customized with trident, protection side wings. The crown is equipped with a special tightening system that allows the Trident to always remain in a vertical position. This enhanced functionality is a Sea-God patent

Dial: Black matt with inscription "Portorotondo" in red, ruthenium indexes with luminescent internal hatching black shade, date window at 3o'clock

Hands: Ruthenium black, skeleton, luminescent and customized Sea-God. Continuous seconds in the center, subsidiary seconds with trident counterweight, 24-hour hand red with end arrow-shaped.

REHAUT: Elevated in titanium

GLASS: 4.6mm thick sapphire lightly convex anti-reflective coating inside

Case-back: Stainless Steel with black DLC coating, tightly packed    with 12 titanium screws 3mm thread    with waves and customized with Trident. On the case back is engraved personalization anti-counterfeiting    and serial number

Movement: Self-winding mechanical, 25 jewels, 25.60 mm diameter. Thickness of 4.60 mm, second stop device, oscillating weight on ball bearing, Glucydur balance  incabloc shockproof, EtaCron with micrometer screw, alternations /hour 28,800, bi-directional winding rotor, 42 hours autonomy. Swiss made.

Strap: Super black rubber, special material specifically designed for Sea-God watches, adjustable customized with Sea-God logo

Buckle: clasp in stainless steel with black DLC coating    and customized Sea-God logo

Water resistance:
Guaranteed up to a pressure of 30 atmospheres or 300 meters

Suggested retail price: 4300 CHF
Ref. 271801AN - 1/499

Also available
Portorotondo Limited Edition GMT (Ref. 271901AN - 1/499)
Portorotondo is available also in limited edition GMT version whose main feature is the 2893-2 ETA movement and the bidirectional 5th grade titanium bezel - Bidirectional rotating, hard titanium with    black    DLC coating and graduated from 0 to 24. Suggested retail price: 5000 CHF

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese HandWound Eight Days (Ref. IW510204/ IW510202/ IW510203)

With its third new Portuguese model for this year, Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen makes another exciting addition to this technically sophisticated watch family. The optical features of the Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days in red gold and stainless steel make it an unmistakable part of this top-quality design line.

The Portuguese watch family from IWC Schaffhausen has one of the longest and far-reaching traditions of them all and is the epitome of clarity, purist elegance and innovation, combined with precision and state-of-the-art mechanics.

At the same time, the Portuguese timepieces hark back to bygone days, when the spirit of discovery drove fearless seafarers to exchange the safety of the harbour for the open seas and to give in to their longing for exploring uncharted territories. The Portuguese watches still carry this gene, this irresistible yearning for travel, to this day. But, above all, this IWC collection with its precision instruments acknowledges ongoing technical development and presents an extensive range of elegant timepieces.

The latest addition to the family is the Portuguese HandWound Eight Days(Ref. IW510204/IW510202/IW510203). It owes its classic look to the new case design twinned with an arched-edge front glass.
The Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days in red gold (Ref. IW510204) with its silver-plated dial, Arabic numerals and the characteristic feuille hands is the essence of simple aesthetics. The signal-red “60” in the seconds dial is a small, but attractive detail.
The sister models in stainless steel feature a black (Ref. IW510202) or silver-plated dial (Ref. IW510203) with rhodium-plated numerals and hands.
Features common to both include the typical railway-track-style chapter ring and the IWC manufactured 59215 calibre. This movement, a member of the 59000-calibre family, is a modern design featuring conspicuous bridges and plates and guarantees the high level of ruggedness and reliability required in a watch designed for everyday use. In addition to this, the watch has a very long power reserve, allowing it to run for exactly 192 hours – or 8 days – without needing to be rewound.
Precisely how much time remains before the owner needs to wind the crown can be read off the power reserve display visible through the sapphire-glass back on the reverse side of the watch. This sophisticated arrangement ensures that the dial retains its uncluttered, purist clarity.

Leather straps made by Italian luxury shoe manufacturer Santoni underscore the unusual character of the new Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days. The versions in stainless steel are fitted with black straps, while the red gold model comes with a strap in dark brown.

Technical details
Model: Portuguese Hand-Wound Eight Days
Ref. IW510204 • IW510202 • IW510203

Features
Mechanical movement
Hand-wound
8-day power reserve when fully wound
Indexless balance with 4 golden weight screws on the balance rim
Breguet spring
Small hacking seconds
Date display
Power reserve display on the case back

Movement
Calibre: 59215
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 8 days (192 h)
Winding: hand-wound

Case, dial & strap
Ref. IW510204: case and numerals in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown Santoni alligator leather strap, pin buckle in 18-carat red gold
Ref. IW510202: stainless-steel case, black dial, rhodium-plated hands and numerals, black Santoni alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
Ref. IW510203: stainless-steel case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and numerals, black Santoni alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel

Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: transparent sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43 mm
Case height : 12 mm

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Vacheron Constantin – New Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis Triology (Angel, Lizard & Horsemen) – Inspired by the work of Dutch artist Cornelis Escher

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Vacheron Constantin unveils its second series in the Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis collection, inspired by the work of the Dutch artist Maurits Cornelis Escher.

Representing the second chapter in a collection presented in 2012 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, the new Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis creations, inspired by the work of Dutch artist Cornelis Escher, pursue this glowing tribute to the graphic art of tessellation.
Vividly expressing the creativity of the Master Craftsmen whose skills are so greatly valued by the Manufacture, they illustrate the ties between watchmaking and culture that Vacheron Constantin has been perpetuating ever since it’s founding. At the crossroads between past, present and future, these timepieces embody the challenges taken up by the artisans of Vacheron Constantin and governed by a combination of talent, discipline and instinct.

Representing a symbiosis of several crafts, the new Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis trilogy uses the technique of periodic paving to create a strikingly hypnotic effect. Another skill highlighted by Vacheron Constantin, go ld and mother-of-pearl marquetry, is associated with those of engraving, enamelling, gemsetting and guilloche work to create trompe l’oeil dials featuring infinitely entwined elements of geometry, movement and symbolism.
The space on the dials is filled with perfectly interlocking repetitive motifs, thereby creating a world of optimal illusion and perspective, beautifully framed by a white gold case. The slender bezel ensures a maximum dial opening, while the elegant hands are hollowed so as to provide full expressive scope for the art of tessellation.

The Hallmark of Geneva certified watches are driven by Calibre 2460, a mechanical self-winding movement entirely developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin.
In addition to its reliability, it bears manual finishes performed in keeping with the finest Fine Watchmaking traditions. The polished angles, hand-drawn flanks, circular-grained mainplate, bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and the gold oscillating weight featuring the elegant crossweave guilloché pattern, are all clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.

Angel Watch
Engraving, guilloché work and Grand Feu enamel: On the dial of this fascinating model, angels and demons face off in a contrast that is both symbolic and aesthetic. The former are in light, the latter in darkness, yet neither side appears to prevail over the other.
Inspired by research conducted by Maurits Cornelis Escher on the “circular boundary” – involving décor composed of infinitely multiplied elements radiating out from a central point – the watch portrays these respective figures through a subtle combination of the arts of engraving, enamelling and guilloché work, skilfully playing on depth and shimmering mirror-like effects.
Working with a white gold base, the engraver first traces the outlines of the figures and then hollows them out as cells using the champlevé technique. Next comes the copperplate engraving that defines the details of the demons. The enameller fills the cavities thus hollowed out, an operation requiring infinite precision in that the repetitive symmetry of the pattern simply cannot tolerate even the tiniest flaw.
After several firings in the kiln, during which the grey and blue colours are progressively set in place, the artisan applies a final layer of translucent enamel to the imps in order to accentuate the depth of the engraved motifs. The guillocheur then moves into action to craft the angel robes and wings by patiently incising the colourful material. It is extremely rare that guilloché work on an enamelled model is done as the last phase, precisely due to the extreme complexity of such an operation, since any slip of the tool could jeopardise the precious work of an entire team of artisans.

Lizard watch
Engraving, Grand Feu enamelling, gemsetting and guilloché work: Red, brown, gemset or silver-toned, the lizards take over the dial to create a captivatingly animated effect. Inspired by one of the Dutch artist’s lithographs named Reptiles, the watch springs to life beneath the intermingled effect of four ancestral decorative arts.

The engraver begins his work by hollowing out the motifs from a yellow gold base. The enameller then fills in the lizards heading southwards with a taupe –coloured enamel, while those going west are coated in crimson red.
The gemsetter then chooses to adorn the coats of certain reptiles with round-cut diamonds and finally, the master guillocheur dextrously enlivens the remaining lizards by highlighting their tiny scales measuring just a few tenths of a millimetre.

Horsemen watch
Engraving meets gold and mother-of-pearl marquetry: The majestic Ottoman horsemen with their inimitably proud bearing straddle the dial crafted in a superb gold and mother-of-pearl marquetry pattern. The shimmering colours of the materials mingle in perfect harmony.
The art of marquetry has been practised since time immemorial. The Egyptians used it in the form of precious stones and ivory inlaid into cosmetic cases and furniture. In the Middle Ages, Venice and the Byzantine empire exported luxury objects to the West featuring black and white geometrical motifs created by inlaying gold, ivory or mother-of-pearl into wooden veneers in a subtle range of lighter to darker shades.
The marquetry artist crafts a particularly complex object by adjusting two diametrically opposing materials. Each horseman is first cut out from gold and mother-of-pearl before being meticulously assembled, like a puzzle, on a gold base. There are no visible gaps between the figures – a tough challenge indeed within such a small space.
Mother-of-pearl calls for extreme attention, since it is extremely fragile and must feature the perfect combination of thickness, specific colours and shapes, smoothly combining curves and straight lines in order to follow the lines of its gold counterpart. At the end of the process, the engraver perfects the horsemen and horses by hollowing out the details of their anatomy.

The art of tessellation
Born in the mists of time and named after the Latin word tessela, meaning paving stone or tile, the art of tessellation – or paving – spans many civilisations and cultures. It consists of small interlocking squares forming a motif that occupies the entire space of a picture without leaving any gaps, tessellations cover floors, walls and ceilings to form subtle geometrical landscapes.

From 4000 B.C, this mosaic technique adopted by the Sumerians, a people of Mesopotamia. While the Romans also made it one of the main decorative motifs in their architecture, it was doubtless the Moors who raised this technique to an authentic art form in the period stretching from 700 to 1500 AD, since the Islamic religion forbade them from representing human beings and any real objects.

This technique has also proved interesting for mathematicians, who have viewed it as an artistic expression of their science and their logic. Such scholars include Archimedes, the famous Greek scientist from the 1 st century B.C., who studied geometrical paving; as well as the astronomer Johannes Kleper, who presented a certain number of polygonal tessellations in his work entitled Harmonice Mundi. More recently, artists Bridget Riley and Victor Vasarely have drawn inspiration from this art of which Maurits Cornelis Escher is undoubtedly one of the most famous contemporary exponents.

Maurits Cornelis Escher
Dutch graphic artist and engraver Maurits Cornelis Escher (1898-1972) based his work upon subtle plays on architecture, perspective and space. Admirably associating perfect execution and imagination, he was a past master in the art of toying with visual senses and even reason in order to invent new spatial representations and worlds that exist only on flat surfaces.

His travels to Spain instilled in him a passion for the paving technique of which he saw some remarkable examples in the Moorish tiles of the Alhambra in Grenada, and the Cordoba Mosque. Comprising a strong mathematical element, his work lies on the borderline between art and science. For the artist, the possibility of replacing the abstract geometrical shapes of the motifs by figurative designs became a genuine passion and an infinite source of inspiration.

Technical details

Collection: Métiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis (Second Series)
Models references
86222/000G-9804 (Angel watch)
86222/000G-9834 (Lizard watch)
86222/000G-9833 (Horseman watch)
Timepieces certified by the Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Calibre 2460 SC, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
26.20 mm (11’’’ ¼) diameter
3.60 mm thick
22K gold rotor
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)
182 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Center seconds

Case
18K white gold
40 mm diameter, 8.90 mm thick
Transparent, sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistance tested at a pressure equivalent to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial 
Or 18K
Angel watch: Hand-guilloché, hand-engraving and “Grand Feu” enamelling
Lizard watch: Hand-guilloché, hand-engraving, diamond-setting and « Grand Feu » enamelling
Horseman watch: Hand-engraved mother-of-pearl and gold Marqueterie

Bracelet
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K white gold buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Edition
Limited edition of 20 individually numbered pieces for each model
“N°X/20” and “© The M.C. Escher Company B.V.” engraved on the back of the case
Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec

Carl F. Bucherer dedicates its new timepiece – the Patravi ScubaTec – to those who love diving and ocean sports. This extremely robust, high precise and legible timepiece is most suited for deep sea diving.

Integrated into the 44.6 mm stainless steel case is the CFB 1950.1 automatic caliber, the accuracy of which is certified by a C.O.S.C. To ensure safety in measuring the duration of a dive, the bezel of the Patravi ScubaTec can only be rotated counterclockwise, so that the diver’s safety is guaranteed in the event of any accidental manipulation.

The generously proportioned dial of the three-hand watch guarantees fast and accurate readability. Even in murky waters, the diver will still be able to tell the time, because the hands and markers are coated with super luminova material that glows light blue in the dark. The black dial is well protected by a sapphire crystal almost 4 mm thick. In addition, a helium valve ensures that, when the diver is descending and ascending in the diving bell, the gas escapes automatically so that the case will not be damaged.
The distinctive design of the Patravi ScubaTec already indicates its function as a diver’s watch. The glowing blue markers, the marking on the first quarter of the bezel, and the notch of the same color on the crown are symbolic of the sea. An extraordinary design detail is to be found on the back of the timepiece, where two manta rays are depicted in relief with a 3D effect. The bracelet of shiny and matt stainless steel creates a fascinating interplay of light and shadow, even when on land, recalling the shimmering surface of the sea.

The unique combination of steel and two ceramic colors on the bezel is set against a background in a sporty ceramic blue shade that has been exclusively created for Carl F. Bucherer.

The integrated bracelet extension makes the length of the bracelet individually adjustable, so that the Patravi ScubaTec is suitable for wearing over a diving suit as well as for everyday use.

Technical details
Reference number: 00.10632.23.33.21
Movement: automatic, CFB 1950.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.6 or 4.8 mm, 25 or 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
Functions: date, hours, minutes, seconds
Case: stainless steel, steel/ceramic bezel, automatic helium valve, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 500 m (50 atm), diameter 44,6 mm, height 13.45 mm
Strap: stainless steel, diving clasp stainless steel
Variants: 00.10632.23.33.01 with rubber strap

A. Lange & Söhne - Saxonia Automatic Outsize Date

A. Lange & Söhne presents the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE with the legendary Sax-0-Matcalibre in an exclusive pink-gold edition. Limited to 25 watches, the special model is available only at the eleven international A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques.

Endowed with persuasive intrinsic values, the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE pays tribute to the traditions of Saxon watchmaking artistry. The double aperture outsize date, a widely recognised brand metaphor, graces its eye-catching dial. Down to the very last detail, this timepiece transports the values of Saxony’s watchmaking heritage to the present day.
Its design reflects the elegant sleekness that characterises all members of the Saxonia watch family: An extraordinary movement is accommodated in the pink-gold case of the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE: Lange’s famous Sax-0-Mat manufacture calibre. The name is composed of “Saxonia” (the Latin word for Saxony), “zero”, and “automatic”. The zero stands for the ingenious Zero-Reset mechanism. It causes the seconds hand to instantaneously jump to the 12 o’clock position when the crown is pulled. This very useful function makes synchronising the watch extremely easy.
The automatic winder is another noteworthy feature: The delicately embossed rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass efficiently winds the watch in both directions thanks to a reduction gear. Four ball bearings assure that a sufficient amount of mainspring power is quickly built up even on a quiet day at the office or on a leisurely holiday. All of the details of the meticulously finished movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The three-quarter rotor reveals the escapement with the classic screw balance, the hand-engraved balance cock, and the whiplash precision index adjuster.

The special edition of the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE is limited to 25 watches. They are reserved for customers of the eleven A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques around the world.

Technical details
Model: SAXONIA AUTOMATIC OUTSIZE DATE
Ref. 308.047
Limited edition: 25 watches

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L921.4 “SAX-0-MAT”, self-winding,  crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards,  decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five  positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver with integrated three-quarter rotor made of 21-carat gold,  platinum centrifugal mass, reversing and reduction gear with  four ball bearings; balance cock engraved by hand.

Movement parts: 378
Jewels: 45
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance; Nivarox® hairspring; frequency  21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash precision index  adjuster and patented precision beat adjustment system
Power reserve: 46 hours when fully wound
Dimensions: Diameter: 30.4 millimetres; height: 5.6 millimetres

Functions 
Time indicated in hours and minutes; subsidiary seconds with  stop seconds and ZERO-RESET mechanism, outsize date

Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, correction  push piece for advancing the outsize date

Cas, dial and strap
Dimensions: Diameter: 37.0 millimetres; height: 9.7 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Case: Pink gold
Dial: Solid silver, argenté
Hands: Pink gold
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, reddish-brown
Buckle: Lange prong buckle in pink gold

A. Lange & Söhne - Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

German Watchmaking Legend A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, an exceptional timepiece that combines two classic complications (Tourbillon & Perpetual Calendar) with the typical design of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous wristwatch: the Lange 1. This haute horology timepiece  is available in a special Handwerkskunst edition limited to 15 timepieces. This new timepiece incorporates the complexity of Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar and beauty of Lange Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst models launched in 2012 and leverages the entire spectrum of artisanal skills mastered by the eminent Saxon manufactory.
Intelligently arranged around the time indications, the calendar displays with the patented peripheral month ring deliver a host of information at a single glance: date, day, month, leap year, and moon phase. A decisive asset: all perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously.
They are so harmoniously integrated in the dial architecture that it takes a second look to grasp the technical complexity of this horological masterpiece. To assure crisp legibility, the refined tourbillon mechanism with the patented stop function can be observed only on the caseback side.
The dial is crafted from solid white gold and in this special edition is decorated with a rare combination of tremblage and relief engraving techniques. 


The manual work involved extends into the realm of the smallest details: For the first time in a Lange timepiece, the blue numerals of the outsize date display are hand-painted.
The epithet Handwerkskunst also applies to the decorations of the manufacture calibre L082.1 without reservation. They are the traditional counterpoints to the avant-garde calibre design innovations. The relief-engraved tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks frame the tourbillon ensemble with the patented stop seconds feature. The same free-hand engraving technique is used to decorate the large central rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass. Each of the three train bridges is embellished with solarisation. The specular polish on the upper side of the tourbillon cage is also a typical Lange quality hallmark. Four screwed gold chatons and a diamond endstone bearing for the tourbillion are the grand finale of Lange’s “Handwerkskunst” extravaganza.
A 41.9-millimetre platinum case is the fitting highlight of this composition of precious metals. The A. Lange & Söhne signature and the case and edition serial numbers on the caseback are hand-engraved.

This exclusive collectors’ item was unveiled in September 2013 at the “Watches & Wonders” Haute Horlogerie Exhibition in Hong Kong. It comes in a limited edition of 15 watches that will be available exclusively through the eleven international A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques.
Technical details
Model: LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST 
Ref. 720.048
Limited edition of 15 watches

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L082.1, self-winding, crafted to the  most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and  assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates  and bridges made of untreated German silver; central element  of the unidirectional winding rotor in 21-carat gold, platinum  centrifugal mass; rotor as well as tourbillon and intermediatewheel cocks engraved by hand with the relief technique

Movement parts: 624
Jewels: 76, including one diamond endstone
Screwed gold chatons: 5
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights;  superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house,  frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 50 hours when fully wound
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 34.1 millimetres; height: 7.8 millimetres

Functions 

Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds.
Tourbillon with patented stop-seconds mechanism; perpetual  calendar with outsize date, day of week, month, and leap year;  day/night indication; moon-phase display

Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; recessed  push pieces for collectively advancing all calendar indications or  for individually correcting the month, the day of week, and the  moon phase

Case, dial & strap

Dimensions: Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.2 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Case: Platinum
Dial: White gold, rhodié; hand-engraved with the relief and  tremblage techniques; blue numerals of the outsize date  painted by hand
Hands: Rhodiumed gold
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in platinum

VULCAIN - UN ÉTÉ À CHAMPÉRY - Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand VULCAIN unveils a new limited edition timepiece to honour the village of Champéry, Switzerland.

Champéry is a magnificent mountain village in the canton of Valais. Its single main road is lined with chalets typical of the val d’illiez. Their imposing facades conceal a wealth of mountain-style and modern interiors, a discreet luxury cherished by a well-heeled clientele with a preference for a humble, simple approach to life. Champéry is indeed a destination where modesty, respect and discretion reign supreme, thereby making it an unspoilt place, a true gem at the foot of the Dents du midi. The Vulcain watch manufacturer now pays tribute to it with a limited series of 23 exceptional timepieces.
Their pink gold cases frame dials that are entirely handcrafted by artisans mastering the centuries-old tradition of Grand Feu champlevé enamelling. The steeple and the main street of the village are so meticulously depicted that it takes a watchmaker’s eyepiece to appreciate each and every detail.
Living in their village nestling at the bottom of the Val d’Illiez, the population of Champéry, like the first watchmakers of the Jura, was essentially rural. Life was harsh, but this valley that turned so green and lush in summer was fertile and yielded sufficient food for its inhabitants. Its charm was soon discovered by the first foreign tourists who marvelled at the majestic presence of the Dents du Midi, appreciated the pleasant, gentle summers in the village, the coolness of the Vièze river and the conviviality of the natives.
It was in 1855 that the word “tourist” first appeared in the “livre des étrangers” (outside visitors’ register), making Champéry one of Switzerland’s oldest tourist sites. Three years later, in 1858, the Ditisheim brothers set up in La Chaux-de-Fonds their company that would give rise to the Vulcain brand and write a fresh page of Swiss watchmaking tradition.

While the Dents du Midi was to attract many tourists as well as hiking and sports enthusiasts, it also inspired many locals to become climbers. La Haute Cime (3,257 metres high) was scaled for the first time in 1784 by Jean-Maurice Clément, the scholarly vicar of Champéry.

The history of Vulcain is also intimately bound up with the mountains, since from the 1930s onwards; the sales representatives of the brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds began placing its watches on the wrists of experienced sportsmen.

In 1945, a team of 14 Italian alpinists including Walter Bonatti, one of the country’s most famous mountaineers, set off to conquer the second highest peak in the world, the K2 (8,620 metres high). On July 31st 1954, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni reached the summit, each with a Vulcain alarm watch on his wrist.

Today, the path of Champéry symbolically crosses that of Vulcain with a limited edition of 23 exceptional timepieces.
The number 23 was chosen in honour of the steeple and bell on which work began in 1723. The church, which is depicted on the dial, is indeed the soul of the village, the place where its inhabitants and tourists gather to pray together and to celebrate various milestones in the lives of parishioners.

Somewhat like a church bell, the striking of the Vulcain Cricket calibre punctuates the passing of time and provides a daily reminder of our obligations. It was thus the perfect medium for this celebration.

Since the start of the 20th century, technicians had been seeking to create an alarm watch, a quest that raised the difficult and apparently insoluble problem of housing an alarm mechanism within the limited space of a normal-sized wristwatch. All attempts made up until then – a bell, an easel comprising the acoustic organs, and even a claw gently scratching the wearer’s wrist – had yielded disappointing results. The Manufacture Vulcain was to have the honour of giving Swiss watchmaking the first alarm wristwatch that truly rang out as loudly as a large alarm clock, and of which the strident chirping was as insistent as that of a cricket hence the name.
Renowned for its iconic models and its unique mechanical movements, the Manufacture Vulcain has a place all its own within the world of Fine Watchmaking.

Active since 1858 in the making of exceptional watches, the company now located in a mansion in Le Locle, a cradle of Swiss watchmaking, has constantly produced timepieces meeting the diverse requirements of the passing eras.

Innovating in order to offer products worthy of the future; exploring Vulcain’s rich history in order to perpetuate its expertise and reveal its original character: such are the principles governing the daily work of the master watchmakers exercising their skills within the Manufacture. In addition to the fabled Cricket alarm calibre that continues to beat at the heart of the brand’s iconic models, the Manufacture has successfully established itself by offering legendary models bound up with the fabulous history of Vulcain. The brand continues to forge its exemplary foundation around its two pillars and their undeniable evocative power.
Among the various techniques used in enamelling, this theme is expressed through that of Grand Feu champlevé enamelling embodying a perfect match between the art of engraving and that of the enamel artisans. It consists in creating cells of various depths in the underlying material, thereby achieving a great variety of colour through the transparency effects created by the enamels.
The artisan gently fills each cavity with enamel using a goose feather or a fine brush, repeating this operation as often as necessary to create an optimal appearance featuring subtly graded shades of colour. These successive layers of enamel are coated with transparent enamel known as fondant (flux).
Next is the lapping or sanding stage, which is performed with a diamond file in order to level out and smooth the enamel and to reveal the metal composing the walls of the enamel cavities, as well as the larger parts to be engraved.
 
Once this operation is complete, the engraver works over all the metal parts with a burin or graver, in order to restore them to a vivid shine: this is a very tricky step, since some borders are only 2/10ths of a mm thick, while the enamel itself cannot withstand pressure and is liable to crack at any moment – thus ruining all efforts expended up until that point.

Each dial involves more than a week’s work, between engraving the base plate through to retouching after enamelling, along with a minimum of 15 firings in the kiln heated to a temperature of around 800 degrees Celsius.

Technical details
Model: UN ÉTÉ À CHAMPÉRY by Vulcain
Ref. 200550.339L
23-piece limited edition

Case
Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: solid, hand-engraved
Dial: champlevé enamel
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 14.60 mm
Glass: cambered glare proofed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain Self-Winding Cricket Calibre V-20
12-lignes unidirectional mechanical selfwinding alarm movement, ceramic ball bearings, 31 jewels, 229 parts, twin barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° lift angle
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motif, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, alarm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Duration of the alarm: approx. 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: black Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

JEANRICHARD Autumn Collection

In this autumn, Swiss luxury watch brand JEANRICHARD dresses up its iconic 1681 and Terrascope collections and unveiling three exceptional models in pure and original hues tuned to those of Nature.
The Terrascope is a well-known companion to individuals who seek adventure the world round. It has now cloaked itself in a dark green that reflects onto the dial and the delicately striated rubber strap. It harmonises perfectly with the cushion-style case and large, round bezel.
The look is altogether composed, modern and masculine. This vigorous and sportive icon spearheading JEANRICHARD’s striking comeback is also offered in browns, from the dial to the matching calf-leather band.
Case
Polished and vertically satin-finished stainless steel case
44.00 mm; Height: 12.60 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back, screwed-down, engraved
Water-resistant to 100 m

Movement
JR60, self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 26
Power reserve: minimum 38 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date

Dial
Brown lacquered dial (60500-11-B01-HDP0)
Dark green lacquered dial (60500-11-A01-FKAB)
Applied rhodium-coated indexes with additional luminescent dot
Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material

Strap
Brown calfskin strap (60500-11-B01-HDP0)
Green rubber strap (60500-11-A01-FKAB)
Stainless steel folding buckle

JEANRICHARD’s 1681 is reviving traditions. Its steel case housing an automatic manufacture movement comes on a Barenia calf-leather strap and a rhodium-plated dial made to reflect the season’s most beautiful lights.
Ref. 60330-11-133-HB20
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel case
44.00 mm; Height: 11.27 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back, screwed-down
Water-resistant to 100 m
Manufactured JR1090 movement, caliber JR1000 with small second module, self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations /hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 32
Power reserve: minimum 48 hours
Functions: hour, minute, small second at 9, date
Rhodium satin-finished sunburst-effect dial
Applied rhodium coated indexes
Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material
Grey Barenia® calfskin strap
Stainless steel folding buckle

These three watches are water-resistant to 100 metres. And with their unique design and contrasting brushed and polished finishing, they are ideal accessories for those who wish to enjoy autumn, or any other season, in a spirit of discovery, style and elegance.

Vacheron Constantin - Patrimony Contemporaine Small White Gold Model

Vacheron Constantin unviles Patrimony Contemporaine small white gold model, a timeless ladies watch now appears in a radiant new version showcasing the jewellery-making expertise of the gemsetting artisans within the Manufacture.

At the 2013 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Vacheron Constantin paid tribute to women by presenting a range of creations entirely conceived and developed with them in mind.

Round, forever round: the stylistic restraint characterising the Patrimony Contemporaine line is an acknowledged reference within the world of Fine Watchmaking. Presented in a warm and glowing pink gold interpretation at the SIHH, it now returns to centre-stage in a dazzling immaculately white gold version.
Unconditional enthusiasts will be won over by the luminous radiance that makes a perfect match with the refined design of the Patrimony Contemporaine small model and vividly highlights the gem setting work. It’s pure 36 mm-diameter case is lit up by a bezel set with 68 round-cut diamonds, while the original full-set minute circle becomes a stylistic element that makes this watch resolutely on-trend.
The streamlined applied gold hour-markers and the slender hours and minutes hands are curved to follow the outer curve of the dial. The central sweep-seconds hand, which is also curved, sweeps rhythmically around the distinctive watch face, while a date appearing at 6 o’clock sets the finishing touch to the balanced and harmonious design.
The urban elegance of this model is complemented by the white gold bracelet composed of smoothly interlocking links ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist.
The open caseback provides an exceptional view of the mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre 2450, entirely developed and produced within the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin.

The Patrimony Contemporaine small white gold model meets the new Hallmark of Geneva requirements.

Technical details
Patrimony Contemporaine small model
Reference: 85515/CA1G-9841
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece


Movement
Caliber 2450 Q6
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding with gold hand-guilloché oscillating weight
26.20 mm (11’’’½) diameter
3.60 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)
196 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Center seconds
Date at 6 o’clock

Case
18K white gold
36 mm diameter, 9.15 mm thick
Diamond-set bezel with 68 round-cut diamonds (approx. 0.78 carat)
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Silvered opaline
Convex external zone
Diamond-set minute-track (48 round-cut diamonds, approx. 0.16 carat)
18K white gold applied hour-markers and leaf-shaped hands

Bracelet
18K white gold
Clasp: 18K white gold folding clasp

Vacheron Constantin - New Toledo 1951 Model (Reference - 86300/000R-9826)

More than a mere stylistic composition, the new Toledo 1951 revives an entire era, masterfully living up to its stature as an emblematic model within the Historiques collection by Vacheron Constantin.

Collectors well remember the delicious anecdote regarding the new ‘form’ watch presented by 1951 and featuring the remarkable asset of an astonishing square case. It was an immediate hit, winning over a broad audience including the Italians who nicknamed it “cioccolatone” in reference to the shape of its case that reminded them of a famous chocolate sweet.

The very fact that this watch with its non-conformist design elicited such enthusiasm lay in its ability to take the pulse of an effervescent period. Throughout a decade characterised by outstanding vitality and optimism, designers in all fields were eagerly exploring new avenues, including occasionally confronting each other so as to boost creative momentum. At Vacheron Constantin, aesthetic trends were actively cultivated so as to nurture a design dynamic, as vividly embodied in the “Toledo” model.
A keen sense of its duty to pass on traditions and to share its passion inspired the Historiques collection, which is intended to reinterpret emblematic models. This approach provides an opportunity to highlight Vacheron Constantin’s distinctive aesthetic design codes and choices. The Historiques collection thus revives a wide range of very different, innovative and successful designs – within which the Toledo 1951 watch finds a natural place.

In 2003, the Toledo model had already been revisited and introduced with a complete calendar. This year, the new Toledo 1951 has opted for closer similarities with the original 1951 model through a form watch with a three-hand display that preserves the warm signature mood of this timepiece imbued with a touch of Latin charm.

The design of the new Toledo 1951 stems from an extremely advanced study of curves and the square shape – along with the art of associating them in the most restrained and balanced possible way. In-depth work was done in order to find the perfect proportions for this form watch with its cleverly controlled curves.
The 18-carat pink gold case features three rounded sides composing the signature of this timepiece. These three levels give the case a consistently dynamic appearance that is further accentuated by the uniform polishing on the sides and the round angles. Like a facetted cut diamond, the case catches the light that bounces off its curves and levels. Shadowy and luminous zones enliven this timepiece pervaded by a resolutely vivacious aesthetic. The sapphire crystal is also slightly curved to follow the same aesthetic impetus.
In keeping with the fine tradition of artistic crafts cultivated by Vacheron Constantin, the dial displays a hand-guilloché centre. It features a geometrical motif reinterpreting that of the original and designed to accentuate the shape of the case. The delicately beaded and hollowed minute circle discreetly reveals the 18-carat gold dial. Its square form keeps the main focus on the shape of the case.
Taut lines and optical effects testify to the infinite care lavished on the design of this dial with its opaline silver-toned finishes.

The dimensions of the case – 36.4 mm x 43 mm and 8.9 mm thick – endow this timepiece with an undeniable presence, while ensuring it is not too weighty and proves particularly pleasant to wear.

The solid case-back provides scope for personalising this model supplied with an alligator leather strap secured by a half Maltese Cross-shaped pin buckle.

The new Toledo 1951 watch is powered by the famous Calibre 2460 SC, developed and crafted in-house by Vacheron Constantin. Oscillating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, this self-winding calibre equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight ensures an approximately 40-hour power reserve. In line with the grand tradition of calibres from the Manufacture, the bridges are manually cut out and bevelled, the sides are hand-drawn with file strokes and each screw is meticulously polished.

This timepiece meets the new requirements of the Hallmark of Geneva. Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Hallmark is a guarantee of provenance, of craftsmanship, of durability and of expertise. In 2011, this unique quality label underwent a fundamental transformation: the certification no longer applies to the calibre alone, but instead to the timepiece in its entirety. This represents a major evolution for this authentication that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin, which now chooses to respond more fully than ever to the true expectations of an increasingly well informed clientele.

With the Historiques collection, Vacheron Constantin intends to pursue its privileged dialogue with collectors and passionate devotees. Viewed from this perspective, the new Toledo 1951 brings a fascinating new topic to this ongoing debate.

Technical details
Model: Historiques Toledo 1951
Reference: 86300/000R-9826
Timepiece certified by the Hallmark of Geneva


Movement
Calibre 2460 SC, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
26.20 mm (11’’’ ¼) diameter
3.60 mm thick
22K gold rotor
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)
182 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Central seconds

Case
18K 5N pink gold
33.30 mm x 42.30 mm, 8.93 mm thick
Water resistance tested at a pressure equivalent to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
18K gold, silvered opaline
Hand-guilloché center
18K 5N pink gold applied Arabic numerals and “pearl” minute-track

Bracelet
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddlefinish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold buckle; polished half Maltese cross-shaped