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Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Gold

In 1924 Montblanc designed a revolutionary writing instrument that was to become iconic in the art of writing. Thanks to a design as elegant as it is functional, an innovative ink supply system and a hand-decorated gold nib, Montblanc’s Meisterstück has become one of the greatest design legends of our time. For 90 years it has been the embodiment of excellence - the result of marrying artistic craftsmanship and the very best technology.

A perfect symbiosis of tradition and innovation, the high standards and quality values set by the Montblanc Meisterstück now stretch far beyond the art of writing. On its 90th anniversary, this great symbol of the Montblanc spirit has inspired a new collection of watches: the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage line. Now these refined timepieces, fitted with mechanical movements created in the Montblanc manufactures of Villeret and Locle in the heart of the Swiss Jura, also bear the legendary name of Meisterstück.

The inspiration for the entire Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection is drawn from the history of this legendary fountain pen, and its legacy can be seen in classic watches with functional complications and wonderful decorations. Down to the very last detail, these remarkable timepieces transpose the spirit of the Montblanc Meisterstück into the heart of traditional fine Swiss watchmaking.

Born almost a century ago, the Meisterstück is now enjoying a new lease of life through the Meisterstück Heritage collection.

Named the Meisterstück Heritage collection, the inspiration and starting point for the new Montblanc watch line is the famous fountain pen born in 1924. Each of these original watches bears the stamp of traditional craftsmanship, timeless design and perfect functionality, incorporating the best of the Swiss art of fine watchmaking.

All models of the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection measure time through long, faceted hour- and minute-hands in the dauphine shape, clearly distinguishable against faces embellished by a delicate sunburst finish. Because of the extreme sobriety of these hands, the construction is necessarily meticulous, resulting in a perfect design.

Remaining true to the spirit of the Montblanc Meisterstück fountain pen in which every detail is an essential element, the watches of the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection have polished, faceted applied indices in three different lengths. These indices are riveted to the dial by minute feet, in line with the finest traditions.

The dial is dominated by the Roman numeral "XII", completing the hour circle. Another example of the attention Montblanc pays to the quality of finishes, the pared down and refined contours of the 39- or 41 millimetre-diameter case are emphasised by delicate decorations such as the horizontal satin finishing on the middle piece. The crown is embossed with the polished Montblanc emblem, standing out from the sand-blasted background.

Each model in the Meisterstück Heritage collection is distinguishable through unique characteristics, from the classic, three-handed watch complete with date function, through a splendid timepiece indicating the phases of the moon, to grand complications represented by a perpetual calendar and a monopusher chronograph.

At the Watches and Wonders 2014 fair in Hong Kong, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection will reach new heights, adding three new Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic models made from 18 karat red gold.
Available in a 39 millimetre-diameter and a height of just 9 millimetres, easily worn by a man or a woman, these prestigious models further enhance a supremely elegant classical style. With its four indices for hours, minutes, seconds and the date, the Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic in solid red gold concentrates on the basics and makes sobriety the ultimate refinement. The design of the dial perfectly illustrates an aesthetic of refined functionality, emphasising the basic principles of fine watchmaking: the cambered dial with fine indices for the minutes on the sloping periphery, the faceted applied indexes in three lengths, the Roman numeral "XII" (also in appliqué), the date window with its meticulously polished frame and the fine sunburst pattern, with rays that shimmer and shift according to the angle of the light.
Over this distinguished horological composition sweep the red gold plated “dauphine” style hour and minute hands , in perfect harmony with the shape of the indices.

Montblanc has chosen to add three new faces to its Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection in 18 karat red gold. To start with, a classic version of this timepiece is now available with a silver-white dial. It also comes in a very contemporary- chique version with a chocolate brown dial and sunburst pattern. This warm colour goes perfectly with the deep sparkle of the red gold and the dark brown of the alligator strap.
For the first time, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection is crowned by a model in 18 karat red gold studded with diamonds. Its bezel is set with 88 Top Wesselton diamonds, making this watch – the indices of which are also decorated with diamonds – a real jewel of precision time-keeping, as stunning as it is precious. With this new 18 karat red gold version, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection aims more than ever to pay sparkling homage to the legend of the Meisterstück fountain pen.

The three versions of the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic are animated by a self-winding mechanical movement Calibre MB 24.17. They are a pleasure to behold with particularly fine finishes such as the golden colored balance wheel that beats at a frequency of 28'800 A/h (4 hertz), visible through a pane of sapphire crystal in the back of the case.

The movement is enclosed in a case just 9 millimetres high. As with all the models in the collection, this elegant case in precious metal bears all the characteristics of a real fine watchmaking timepiece: a narrow polished convex bezel, vertically descending flanks with horizontal satin finishing, slightly arched horns, anti-reflective cambered sapphire crystal as well as a wristband in black or brown large scale alligator-skin with a 18 karat red gold pin buckle to ensure it fits comfortably round the wrist.

Technical details
Movement
MB 24.17
Mechanical movement with automatic winding
Number of rubies: 25
Power reserve: Approx. 42 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat

Displays
Hours, minutes, large second-hand, date in a window at “3 o’clock”

Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic (Ident. 112144)
Case
18K red gold case, 18 K red gold fixed bezel set with 88 Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.528 ct.), horizontally satin-finished middle piece
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed and antireflective sapphire crystal
Back: 18K red gold with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions: Diameter 39 mm; Height 9 mm
Water tightness: 3 bar
Crown: 18K red gold with Montblanc emblem in raised relief

Dial
Silvery white and slightly cambered dial with sunburst pattern, facetted hour indices set with 12 Top Wesselton diamonds and Roman numeral “XII” as red gold-plated appliqués, red gold-plated dauphine hour-hand, minute-hand and second-hand, date shown in window with polished frame

Wristband
Black alligator-skin strap with red gold-plated pin buckle

Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic (Ident. 111874)
Case
18K red gold case, polished bezel, horizontally satin-finished middle piece
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed and antireflective sapphire crystal
Back: 18K red gold with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions Diameter 39 mm; Height 9 mm
Water tightness: 3 bar
Crown: 18K red gold with Montblanc emblem in raised relief

Dial
Silvery white and slightly cambered dial with sunburst pattern, facetted hour indices and Roman numeral “XII” as red gold-plated appliqués, red gold-plated dauphine hour-hand, minute-hand and second-hand, date shown in window with polished frame

Wristband
Black alligator-skin strap with red gold-plated pin buckle

Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic (Ident. 111875)
Case
18K red gold case, polished bezel, horizontally satin-finished middle piece
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed and antireflective sapphire crystal
Back: 18K red gold with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions: Diameter 39 mm ; Height 9 mm
Water tightness: 3 bar
Crown: 18K red gold with Montblanc emblem in raised relief

Dial
Brown and slightly cambered dial with sunburst pattern, facetted hour indices and Roman numeral “XII” as red gold-plated appliqués, red gold plated dauphine hour-hand, minute-hand and second-hand, date shown in window with polished frame

Wristband
Black alligator-skin strap with red gold-plated pin buckle

Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition

Swiss watch brand Oris presents Limited Edition Audi Sport watch collection to celebrate its partnership with Audi Sport. Oris is the Official Watch Partner of the Audi Sport teams taking part in both the FIA World Endurance Championships (WEC) and German Touring Car Championship (DTM), and was part of the Audi Sport Le Mans 24 Hours winning team in June 2014.

The new watch is based on the Oris Artix GT sports chronograph, the watch made famous by Oris’s innovative retrograde small seconds function at 9 o’clock. Its design has been tailored to reflect Audi road-car dashboard instrument panels and is finished in silver, the German marquee’s signature colour.
The Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition has a titanium case and a tungsten bi-directional rotating bezel, both engineered to make the watch as light as possible, mirroring some of the technologies developed for Audi Sport’s high-performance race cars.
The outside edge of the rotating timer bezel has a ‘good grip’ rubber insert, an Oris innovation that improves grip and allows the wearer to make quick, confident adjustments. The case back of new Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition reveals Oris’s Calibre 774 and its distinctive red rotor.
It comes on a perforated leather race-inspired strap, which has a folding clasp, also made from titanium. The Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition is presented in a special Alcantara-like box, and is limited to 2,000 pieces.

Technical details
Model: Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition
Ref. No. 774 7661 7481, Ø 44.00mm
Limited to 2,000 pieces

Movement
Oris automatic mechanical movement 774, based on SW500, with Chronograph function and date

Case
Multi-piece titanium case
Bi-rotating tungsten bezel with minute scale and rubber coated ‘good grip’ insert on the outside edge
Sapphire crystal domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating inside
Titanium screw-down case back see-through mineral glass
Screw-in stainless steel crown and stainless steel pushers
Water-resistant to 10 bar/100m

Dial
Two-piece matt silver dial; minute and hour counters; applied numerals filled with Super-LumiNova; dial ring with tachymeter scale directly assembled to the case
Special retrograde small seconds display at 9 o’clock developed by Oris
Polished nickel hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova inlay; central seconds and sub-dial counter hands in red

Strap
Black perforated leather racing strap with titanium folding clasp

Price
Swiss Retail Price: CHF 3,550.00

Monday, September 29, 2014

IWC Schaffhausen - Portofino Midsize Automatic & Portofino Automatic

For 30 years, the classic elegance of the Portofino Automatic with three hands has held its own in times of ever-changing, short-lived fashion trends. With its new 37-millimetre Portofino Midsize Automatic, IWC Schaffhausen has made the company’s silent star more attractive to watch lovers with slimmer wrists. The ten models with their diamond-set bezels or dials will appeal to buyers seeking puristic design combined with timeless elegance. Three slightly larger Portofino Automatic models, also set with precious stones, perfectly complement the current collection.

When in 1984 a smaller version of the Portofino was presented to the public alongside the impressive “pocket­ watch­ style wristwatch” (Ref. 5251), it had what by today’s standards could certainly be described as modest dimensions, with a case diameter of just 34 millimetres. The Midsize models were highly sought after, especially in Latin Europe, and sold successfully until 2007.

Seen in this light, the new 37­millimetre Portofino Midsize Automatic models (Ref. 4581) launched in 2014 mark a return to a fine tradition for the Swiss watch manufacturer. The much¬ coveted three¬ hand timepiece now looks perfect on a slimmer wrist – all the more so when it is set with precious stones.

PORTOFINO MIDSIZE AUTOMATIC
The Portofino Midsize Automatic comes in four red gold and six stainless steel versions, each of which is available with a diamond set bezel or a slightly more understated variation with 12 jewels on the dial. The sparkling stones are of remarkable clarity and give the watches an exquisite feel, while the design remains sleek and simple. 
The meticulously finished mirror polished case surfaces also lend these timepieces a real air of exclusivity, as does the sun pattern finish on the dials, which makes the light appear to move around in circles when the watch is tilted from side to side. Another eye-catching feature on the new Midsize models is the slightly raised inner circle on the dial – as seen on some members of the Ingenieur family – which adds structure and depth to the watch face.
In addition to the hour, minute and seconds hands, the Portofino Midsize Automatic also features a rapid advance date display. All of these functions are powered by the 35111­calibre mechanical automatic movement. Pulling out the crown stops the central hacking seconds hand, and the sapphire glass has antireflective coating on both sides to guarantee a clear view of the display. All Portofino watches are tested for water resistance to 3 bar.
Alligator leather straps from Santoni in delicate nuances of colour complement the dial and case of nine of the models perfectly, while reference IW458110 features a Milanaise mesh bracelet. Each timepiece is also available with an elegant 1960s style Milanaise bracelet in high quality stainless steel or 18­carat red gold. “Milanaise” is the name used to describe bracelets woven from fine wire that fit snugly around the wearer’s wrist.
Technical details
Movement
Calibre 35111
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 25
Power reserve: 42 h
Winding: automatic

Case, dial and strap
Ref. IW458101:stainless­steel case, silver­plated dial set with 12 diamonds, light brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
Ref. IW458102:stainless­steel case, slate­coloured dial set with 12 diamonds, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
Ref. IW458110: stainless­steel case, slate­coloured dial set with 12 diamonds, Milanaise mesh bracelet in stainless steel
Ref. IW458103:stainless­steel case set with 66 diamonds, silver­plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
Ref. IW458104:stainless­steel case set with 66 diamonds, slate­coloured dial, grey alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
Ref. IW458109:stainless­steel case set with 66 diamonds, silver­plated dial, red alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
Ref. IW458105: case in 18­carat red gold, silver­plated dial set with 12 diamonds, orange alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Ref. IW458106: case in 18­carat red gold, slate­coloured dial set with 12 diamonds, dark brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Ref. IW458107: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, silver­plated dial, lilac alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Ref. IW458108: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, slate­coloured dial, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 37 mm
Case height: 9 mm

PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC
Launched in 2011, the Portofino Automatic (Ref. 3565) with a 40­millimetre case and date display will now be joined by three additional models in the new collection, each one featuring a bezel set with precious stones and an alligator leather strap from Santoni. With the red­ gold model, the buyer has the choice between a silver­ plated (Ref. IW356515) or slate­ coloured (Ref. IW356516) dial.
The Portofino Automatic in white gold (Ref. IW356514) is available exclusively with a silver­ plated dial. The mechanical 35111­calibre automatic movement has a power reserve of 42 hours. The case, which is water­ resistant to 3 bar, is decorated on the back with an exquisite engraving showing a view of the harbour at Portofino.

Technical details
Movement
Calibre 35111
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 25
Power reserve: 42 h
Winding: automatic

Case, dial and strap
Ref. IW356514: case in 18­carat white gold set with 72 diamonds, silver­plated dial, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in white gold
Ref. IW356515: case in 18­carat red gold set with 72 diamonds, silver­plated dial, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Ref. IW356516: case in 18­carat red gold set with 72 diamonds, slate­coloured dial, dark brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 40 mm
Case height: 9.5 mm

IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase

The 2014 Portofino collection sees the return of the most beautiful of all functions – the moon phase display. In creating the new Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, IWC’s designers have taken inspiration from the elegance and flair of the 1950s and ’60s and combined this with a distinctly modern take on luxury. The moon phase display – a feature which harks back to the original Portofino from 1984 – sees the moon imaginatively set in a classic cloud scene or hovering in space in a star-studded night sky.

The Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase is available in five versions: one in white gold (Ref. IW459004), three in red gold (Ref. IW459002/IW459003/IW459005) and one in stainless steel (Ref. IW459001).

Much like the Roman numerals, feuille hands and convex front glass, the moon phase display is an integral part of the Portofino watch line’s identity. It featured in the very first Portofino unveiled in 1984. This model was produced in very small series until the late 1990s, with no change in the design during this time. The Portofino Hand­Wound from the 2008 IWC Vintage Collection delighted connoisseurs with a display showing the moon in its various phases.

Every single model features an exquisite collection of diamonds and the finest materials. With a moderately sized 37­millimetre case, water­ resistant to 3 bar, the Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase also has the ideal dimensions for a more slender wrist. The hands and moon phase display are powered by the 35800­calibre automatic movement. The phase of the moon shown in the display can be adjusted using a correction button at “2 o’clock”. The central seconds hand is stopped using the crown and the sapphire glass has an antireflective coating on both sides.

The Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase in white gold (Ref. IW459004) is the flagship of the new Midsize collection. The dial is the first in IWC’s history to feature several meticulously applied coats of lacquer. The jet­black colour provides a striking backdrop to the pure white diamonds.
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, Ref. IW459004: case in 18­carat white gold set with 90 diamonds, black lacquer dial set with 84 diamonds, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in white gold
For the first time ever, Schaffhausen’s watch designers have set the complete moon phase display against a star­ studded night sky, making the stars appear to float in infinite space. It is an evocative image that is further enhanced by the diamond­ encrusted inner circle of the dial and in the case, which is set with 90 precious stones. The baton­style indices, set with precious stones, radiate like a starburst from the centre of the dial, while the dots of the minute markers move round the edge like distant planets in orbit. Each one of the 174 stones on the dial, bezel and horns appears perfectly positioned, allowing the opulence of the decoration to blend seamlessly into the timepiece’s luxurious style. The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap made by Santoni.

IWC’s watch designers have chosen flawless, gently shimmering mother-of-pearl in white (Ref. IW459001/IW459002/IW459005) and black (Ref. IW459003) for the dials of the red gold and stainless steel versions of the Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase.
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, Ref. IW459002: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, white mother ­of­ pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
The subtle, smooth lustre of the mother-of-pearl underscores the clean design of the watches and gives the dials a magnificent sense of depth, bringing them to life. A bezel set with 66 diamonds completes each piece with a fitting elegance.

The colours for the dial, case and strap have been carefully selected to give a sense of balance to each timepiece. The white mother-of-pearl on the stainless steel model provides a wonderful counterpoint to the blue of the moon phase display, making it appear even larger.
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, Ref. IW459001: case in stainless steel set with 66 diamonds, white mother­ of ­pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, dark blue alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
This colour is also perfectly complemented by the dark blue of the Santoni alligator leather strap. A classic moon phase display features on the three red gold versions, with the moon rising and setting behind the clouds.
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, Ref. IW459005: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, white mother­ of­ pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, Milanaise mesh bracelet in red gold
The red gold model with white mother-of-pearl dial is paired either with a black Santoni alligator leather strap or a red gold Milanaise mesh bracelet to match the case.
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, Ref. IW459003: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, black mother­ of­ pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, dark brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
The black mother of pearl dial truly brings out the sparkle of the diamonds on the hour indices of Reference IW459003. This model is supplied with a dark brown strap. A Milanaise mesh bracelet is also available as an option for the stainless­ steel and the other red­gold versions.

Technical details
Movement
Calibre 35800
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 25
Power reserve: 42 h
Winding: automatic

Case, dial and strap  
Ref. IW459001: case in stainless steel set with 66 diamonds, white mother­ of ­pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, dark blue alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel
Ref. IW459002: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, white mother ­of­ pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Ref. IW459005: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, white mother­ of­ pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, Milanaise mesh bracelet in red gold
Ref. IW459003: case in 18­carat red gold set with 66 diamonds, black mother­ of­ pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, dark brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in red gold
Ref. IW459004:case in 18­carat white gold set with 90 diamonds, black lacquer dial set with 84 diamonds, black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in white gold
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter:  37 mm
Case height: 11 mm

Panerai Special Edition Set - Luminor Black Seal and Luminor Daylight (PAM00785)

Officine Panerai presents a special edition set consisting of two models inspired by two of the watches most representative of the pre-Vendome period, originally created in 1996.

Between 1993, the year of the first collection of watches not made exclusively for military use, and 1997, the year when the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group, Officine Panerai created just a few hundred watches which over the years have acquired an extraordinary value, becoming cult objects for many enthusiastic collectors. These timepieces illustrate the transformation which took place at that time of a tool-watch, known only by a few collectors, into a prominent brand of the international high quality sports watchmaking market.

Officine Panerai now presents a fascinating Special Edition Set (PAM000785) consisting of two models inspired by two of the watches most representative of the pre-Vendôme era, made to order in 1996 for the American actor Sylvester Stallone, a great enthusiast and spontaneous advocate of the brand, who was at the time involved in the film Daylight: the Luminor Black Seal and the  Luminor Daylight.
These two watches, produced in limited editions of 500 units each, are now offered exclusively as part of the Set, the presentation of which is inspired by that of the pre-Vendôme Luminor: a box of pear wood which also contains a model of the human torpedo (Siluro a Lenta Corsa or Slow-speed torpedo) on a teak base and a rare publication about the military equipment of the special forces of the Royal Italian Navy, naturally including Panerai watches and instruments.
The case of the two Luminors, with a diameter of 44mm, has the shape and proportions created by Officine Panerai in 1993 to reinterpret the historic Luminor 1950 case: forms of great simplicity but with an aesthetically impact of remarkably solid and robust. The element which stands out is the iconic bridge device with pressure lever protecting the winding crown, helping to ensure the watch’s water resistance to 30 bar (a depth of about 300 metres).
The two models are distinguished by the coating of the AISI 316L stainless steel case. The case of the Luminor Black Seal is covered by DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon), a layer of vaporised carbon with a diamond structure which adheres perfectly to the metal, giving it a black colour and ensuring toughness and resistance to corrosion, scratches and harsh wear. The closed back of the case is engraved with the inscription “Officine Panerai Firenze” and the OP logo.
Another difference between the two models is the design of the dial. That of the Luminor Daylight is white with numeric hour markers and a detailed minute track while the Luminor Black Seal has a black dial with numerals at only the cardinal points in. Both watches have the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock; another element taken from the past by Panerai which over the years has become a distinctive characteristic.
Although the design of the new Luminors is faithfully inspired by that of the watches of 1996, the technical content has changed dramatically: both have the hand-wound P.5000 calibre, a high-quality movement entirely designed and made in the Panerai manufacture at Neuchâtel. The hand winding, the power reserve of eight days (inspired by the models of the 1940s and achieved by two spring barrels connected in series) and the solid construction with two plates covering most of the wheelwork give the movement the vintage fascination and the ability to tell the story of the brand which is characteristic of every Panerai watch.

The strap of the new Luminor is also completely new but at the same time inspired by that of the models of the pre-Vendôme period. It is made of brown leather, with contrasting ecru stitching and a buckle coordinated with the case, sewn onto the strap itself. The Special Edition Set includes two spare straps identical to the original and a screwdriver.

LUMINOR BLACK SEAL 8 DAYS ACCIAIO DLC – 44mm
Unique edition of 500 units
Movement
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.5000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
15¾ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour
KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device
Power reserve 8 days, two barrels
127 components

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds

Case
Diameter 44 mm, steel with special hard black coating
Bezel: Steel with special hard black coating
Back: Screw, steel
Device protecting the crown :( protected as a trademark) Steel with special hard black coating
Crystal: Sapphire, made from corundum, 2.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance:30 bar (~ 300 metres).

Dial
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Seconds at 9 o’clock

Strap
PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal sewn-in matt steel buckle with special hard black coating
Supplied with a second interchangeable strap and a steel screwdriver

LUMINOR DAYLIGHT 8 DAYS ACCIAIO – 44mm
Unique edition of 500 units
Movement
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.5000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
15¾ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur®balance, 21,600 alternations/hour
KIF Parechoc®anti-shock device
Power reserve 8 days, two barrels
127 components

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds

Case
Diameter 44 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Bezel: Polished steel
Back: Screw, steel
Device protecting the crown :( protected as a trademark) Brushed steel
Crystal: Sapphire made of corundum, 2.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance:30 bar (~ 300 metres). 

Dial

White with luminous Arabic numerals
Seconds at 9 o’clock

Strap
PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal sewn-in polished steel buckle
Supplied with a second interchangeable strap and a steel screwdriver

Panerai - RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO 45mm (PAM00572) & RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ORO ROSSO 45mm (PAM00573)

Created to satisfy the demanding requirements of the specialist underwater forces of the Royal Italian Navy, the Radiomir 1940today still has the characteristics of solidity, endurance and reliability that are the hallmarks of a timekeeping instrument designed for military use. The design of the case and dial have the same overall quality and the identical iconic power as the original, demonstrating the great versatility of a classic which is today enriched with the highest technical content of luxury contemporary watchmaking from the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel.

The Radiomir 1940 is presented for the first time with an automatic movement, the new P.4000 calibre which is the latest creation of the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel.

The distinctive feature of the new calibre is its off-centre oscillating weight, winding in both directions. With a diameter of 13¾ lignes and just 3.95 mm thick, it has been developed to integrate perfectly with the proportions of the Radiomir 1940 case. The result is the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic, the new Officine Panerai timepiece which is available in steel (PAM00572) or in red gold (PAM00573). It is a perfect choice for people looking for a watch that is faithful to the history of Panerai, as well as being suitable for the most elegant occasions with its classic, minimalist design.
The new P.4000 calibre is the first Panerai automatic movement with an off-centre micro-rotor. This means that the rotor is smaller in diameter than the calibre itself: a sophisticated technical solution which enables the movement – and therefore the watch itself – to be much thinner.
In the model with a steel case, the oscillating weight is made of tungsten, a shiny, high density metal, qualities which make it aesthetically appealing and ideal for applications requiring a material with a high specific weight.
In the red gold model, the rotor is made of 22 carat red gold. Its elegant finish and decoration can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal porthole fitted in the back. Next to the oscillating weight is the balance wheel, which oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz, and a large bridge concealing much of the mechanism, making the structure of the movement exceptionally stable.


With two spring barrels connected in series, the P.4000 calibre has a power reserve of at least three days, and it is also fitted with the device which stops the balance wheel when the winding crown is pulled out to set the time, useful for synchronising the watch exactly.

The new Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic models embody the characteristics and qualities which make every Panerai watch unique but at the same time immediately recognisable. The case re-presents that of some of the historic models created by Panerai in around 1940.
It is 45 mm in diameter and is made of AISI 316L stainless steel, or of 5Npt red gold, an alloy which has a higher proportion of copper than usual and a small amount of platinum which helps to reduce any oxidation of the metal. The lugs are formed out of the same block as the case and they adapt perfectly to the line of the wrist, ensuring maximum comfort for wearers of the watch.
The large polished bezel surrounds a classic dial providing excellent legibility, with its minimalist design and its structure of superimposed plates sandwiching the luminous substance between them. This construction means that the hour figures and the baton markers cut in the upper plates shine with great brilliance.
As has been traditional with Panerai since the 1940s, the seconds hand rotates in a small sub-dial at 9 o’clock on the dial, which is black in the steel version and brown in the red gold version.

The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic is water-resistant to ten bar (around 100 metres) in the steel version and five bar (around 50 metres) in the red gold version, and it is supplied with an alligator strap, black or brown respectively.

Technical details
Movement
Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.4000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
13¾ lignes, 3.95 mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur®balance, 28,800 alternations/hour
KIF Parechoc®anti-shock device
Power reserve 3 days, two barrels
203 components

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds

Model: RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO – 45mm (PAM00572)
Case
Diameter 45 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Screw-down winding crown personalised OP
Bezel: Polished steel
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Crystal: Sapphire made of corundum, 1.7 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating
Water-Resistance:10 bar (~ 100 metres)

Dial
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Seconds at 9 o’clock

Strap
PANERAI personalised alligator strap and polished steel buckle

Model: RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ORO ROSSO – 45mm (PAM00573)
Case
Diameter 45 mm, 18 ct. polished red gold
Screw-down winding crown personalized OP
Bezel: 18 ct. polished red gold
Back: See-through sapphire crystal
Crystal: Sapphire made of corundum, 1.4 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating
Water-Resistance:5 bar (~ 50 metres).

Dial
Brown with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Seconds at 9 o’clock

Strap
PANERAI personalised alligator strap and 18 ct. polished red gold buckle

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio – 47mm, Special Edition (PAM00587)

The story of the Radiomir 1940 is the story of the development of the design of Officine Panerai watches. Its essential lines recall the intermediate stage in the transformation of the cushion case of the first Panerai watches, created in 1936, to the more robust shape of the Luminor 1950. The new Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare presents the pure design of this case, combined with a series of historic details demonstrating the fidelity of the new model to those created for the Italian Navy.
The case is 47 mm in diameter, the standard size for watches made for the commandos of the Navy, because they had to be worn over a wet suit. It is made of AISI 316L stainless steel, an alloy particularly resistant to corrosion that is perfect for a watch water-resistant to ten bar (around 100 meters).
Engraved between the lugs, milled from the steel block of the case, are the reference of the watch (PAM00587) and the number of the case, while the inscription “Marina Militare” appears on the dial.
Apart from the engraving, the design of the black dial is of absolute simplicity with only the large linear markers and the Arabic figures at the cardinal points. All the elements on the dial are perfectly visible in very poor light, thanks to the large size and the typical Panerai structure of the dial, consisting of superimposed discs with Super-LumiNova® between them, visible through the holes corresponding to the hour markers.
To protect the dial, the crystal is not made of sapphire crystal but slightly cambered Plexiglas®, 12as in the period examples in which the crystal was made of polymethyl acrylate. The hands too, slender and pointed, have been designed to match those of the period Panerai watches.
Visible through the sapphire crystal back of the case is the in-house P.3000 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement with a power reserve of three days achieved with two spring barrels. Clearly visible through the crystal back are the oscillation of the balance wheel and the wide bridges, satin finished with blue engraving, which cover much of the wheelwork.
The mechanism for adjusting the time with the winding crown is extremely practical because it enables the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the other hand, in jumps of one hour at a time so as not to interfere with the running of the minute hand.
The Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare is a Special Edition of one thousand units and it is supplied with a brown leather strap with ecru stitching and hot-stamped with the OP logo. In the fine pear wood box in which it is supplied there is a spare Plexiglas® crystal.

Technical details
Model: RADIOMIR 1940 MARINA MILITARE 3 DAYS ACCIAIO – 47mm
Unique edition of 1000 units

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.3000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
16½ lignes, 5.3 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour
Incabloc® anti-shock device
Power reserve 3 days, two barrels
160 components

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case, dial and strap
Diameter 47 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Screw-down winding crown personalised OP
Bezel: Polished steel
Back: See-through sapphire crystal
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Crystal: Plexiglas®, 3 mm thick
Water-resistance:10 bar (~ 100 metres)
Strap: PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal polished steel buckle
Supplied with a second Plexiglas®

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Tourbillon GMT Oro Rosso – 48mm, Special Edition

Officine Panerai presents an exclusive special edition in red gold for enthusiasts who are looking for a high level of technical content combined with the pure design and historic fascination of the Radiomir 1940 case.

Officine Panerai is the interpreter par excellence of an extraordinary union: that of Italian design and Swiss watchmaking expertise. The creativity, elegance and functionality of the Italian design find an exceptional consummation in the craftsmanship and skill of Swiss watchmaking in the Panerai manufacture at Neuchâtel, giving life to extraordinary, unique objects such as the Radiomir 1940 Tourbillon GMT Oro Rosso – 48mm, an exclusive Special Edition of just thirty units in red gold, destined for devotees of luxury sports watchmaking.
The Tourbillon regulator is one of the most sophisticated complications of high quality watchmaking, invented almost two centuries ago to eliminate changes of rate in pocket watches caused by the effect of gravity. In a traditional Tourbillon the balance-escapement assembly rotates continuously on its own axis to compensate for these errors of rate. In the Panerai P.2005 calibre, on the other hand, the cage which contains the balance and escapement rotates on an axis which is perpendicular to that of the balance instead of parallel to it, and a rotation is completed in thirty seconds, that is, at twice the speed of the traditional one.
Thanks to these two simple but revolutionary innovations, the Panerai Tourbillon compensates better for inaccuracies, thus ensuring that the watch runs more evenly. Its fascinating rotation can be admired through the sapphire window set in the back and it is also indicated on the dial by a small indicator rotating within the small seconds dial.


As well as the Tourbillon regulator, the P.2005 calibre of the new Radiomir 1940 also has the GMT 24H function, which indicates the time in a second time zone by a special central hand, with am/pm indication on the auxiliary dial at three o’clock.
The local time can be quickly adjusted by the system which enables the hour hand to be moved in jumps of one hour at a time, without interfering with the minute hand or the running of the watch. With three spring barrels connected in series, the power reserve of this hand-wound movement is a good six days, and the power reserve remaining is indicated on the back.
The Radiomir 1940 case with a diameter of 48 mm is made entirely of 5Npt red gold, a special alloy with a high percentage of copper which gives the gold a warm, elegant tone, and a percentage of platinum which helps to prevent oxidation.
The lugs are milled from the block of the case and the wide polished bezel frames a sapphire glass crystal which protects the brown dial with satiné soleil finish; its design is of exemplary simplicity in spite of the richness of the indications. The legibility and clarity of the dial are also enhanced by its sandwich structure: the Super-LumiNova®which makes it visible at night is applied between two discs and its luminescence emerges through holes in the upper one corresponding to the hour markers.

The Radiomir 1940 Tourbillon GMT Oro Rosso – 48mm (PAM00558) is water-resistant to five bar (around fifty metres). It is supplied with a brown alligator strap, closed by an adjustable red gold buckle, personalised Panerai.

Technical details
Model: RADIOMIR 1940 TOURBILLON GMT ORO ROSSO – 48mm
Unique edition of 30 units

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.2005 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
16¼ lignes, 9.1 mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur®balance, 28,800 alternations/hour
KIF Parechoc®anti-shock device
Power reserve 6 days, three barrels
239 components

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Second time zone
24h indicator
Power reserve indicator on the back
Tourbillon

Case
Diameter 48 mm, 18 ct. polished red gold
Screw-down winding crown personalized OP
Bezel: 118 ct. polished red gold
Back: See-through sapphire crystal
Crystal: Sapphire, formed of corundum, 1,5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 5 bar (~ 50 metres).

Dial
Brown, with luminous
Arabic numerals and hour markers
24h indicator at 3 o’clock
Seconds and tourbillon indicator at 9 o’clock

Strap
PANERAI personalised alligator strap and polished 18 ct. red gold adjustable buckle

Officine Panerai Presents P.4000 Calibre, the Manufacture’s First Automatic Movement with a Decentralised Oscillating Weight

Officine Panerai presents the P.4000 calibre, the first automatic movement with an off-centre micro rotor completely developed and made in the manufacture at Neuchâtel. This design means that the rotor is mounted off-centre and is therefore smaller in diameter than the calibre itself: a sophisticated technical solution enabling the thickness of the movement to be substantially reduced. The small oscillating weight is inserted within the movement rather than superimposed upon it and the result is a calibre which preserves all the Panerai characteristics of accuracy, reliability and solidity but with a thickness of only 3.95 mm.
With a diameter of 13¾ lignes (31 mm), the new calibre has a large bridge which is flanked by the small oscillating weight winding in both directions and the balance cock. The latter has twin supports, more secure and stronger than the customary overhanging balance cock with a single support. The supports have two screws for adjusting the vertical play of the balance staff. The balance wheel oscillates at 28,800 alternations per hour (equivalent to a frequency of 4 Hz). It is a balance wheel with variable inertia, that is, with screws enabling the rate to be adjusted precisely without altering the relationship of the balance spring and the bridge. Fitted with 31 jewels, the movement has a power reserve of at least three days, as a result of having two spring barrels connected in series. It is also fitted with the device which stops the balance wheel when the winding crown is pulled out, for synchronising the watch exactly.
The P.4000 calibre is produced in two versions which differ in the kind of finish, the engraving and the material of the micro-rotor. The first, for models with a steel case, has bridges with a horizontally brushed finish, blue engraving and an oscillating weight of tungsten alloy, with relief decoration on the matt surface. The second version is for the models with a gold case and it has bridges with a circular brushed finish, gilded engraving and a rotor of 22 carat gold, with clous de Paris hobnail finish and polished decorations in relief on the brushed surface.

Technical details
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Automatic mechanical
Off-centered rotor made of tungsten or 22 ct. red gold
13¾ lignes in diameter
Thickness 3.95 mm
31 jewels
28,800 alternations/hour
KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device
Power reserve 3 days
Two spring barrels
Stop balance wheel
203 components

Friday, September 26, 2014

NOMOS Glashütte Orion 1989

German watch manufacture NOMOS Glashütte is celebrating the 25-year anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall with a special edition watch: Orion 1989. This version of the classic model in an elegant November gray with golden indexes and hands is a watch for the next quarter century, at least.
The hand-wound timepiece with a dark gray velour leather strap is available from fall for both women and men, in 33 and 38 millimetres. These timepieces are equipped with α (Alpha) manual winding calibre.
Technical details
Model: Orion 1989
Reference numbers: 326 (size 33) & 385 (size 38)

Case
Stainless steel, tripartite; diameter 33 or 38 mm; curved sapphire crystal glass; curved sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.54 (size 33) or 8.86 mm (size 38)
Water-resistant: to 3 atm

Dial
Galvanized, November gray; stamped indexes, diamond-polished
Hands: steel, gold-plated

Strap
Velour leather anthracite

Movement
α (Alpha)—NOMOS caliber with manual winding
Diameter: 23.3 mm
Movement height: 2.6 mm
Power reserve: approx. 43 hours
Characteristics: Glashütte three quarter plate, 17 jewels, Glashütte stop work, Incabloc shock protection, balance spring from Nivarox 1A, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage, ratchet and crown wheel with Glashütte sunburst decoration