Saturday, January 31, 2015

Ulysse Nardin “Hannibal” Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts

In the Hannibal Minute Repeater, Ulysse Nardin depicts the monumental journey of the great Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca who defeated Rome during the Second Punic War. Presented worldwide as a limited edition of 30, the timepiece is crafted from platinum and genuine granite from the Alps.

Of rare and exceptional artistry, the watch demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s ability to push the envelope, yet again, in innovation in haute horology. From its use of original materials to precise engineering, the recent addition to this premier collection is as ingenious as its inspiration.
The first – and most unforgettable – impression of this work of art is made when viewing its dial, set within a platinum case. Hannibal, straddling his horse, appears to be in swift action with one of his loyal elephants and regiment of warriors by his side. These main figures called Jaquemarts, as well as the mountainous backdrop and surrounding terrain, are all hand-carved from 18 carat white gold and are mounted on granite sourced from the very mountain chain Hannibal and his brigade crossed in the third century B.C. By making this material the foundational element of the watch’s design, Ulysse Nardin further illustrates its spirit of invention.

Demonstrating an unparalleled level of skill and creativity in the piece, Ulysse Nardin delves deeper into its storyline by ensuring the detail is so realistic, wearers of the series will be transported back in history every time they, well, check the time. Hues of black, gold, bronze and silver shimmer with each cut, accentuating power and bold masculinity.
Water-resistant to 30 meters, its movement is a caliber UN-78 one-minute tourbillon, integrated and visible on the dial. Its bridge is created in the same shape as those used on the tourbillons James Pellaton produced for Ulysse Nardin at the beginning of the 20th century. Each part of the movement is decorated, angled and hand-finished.

The Hannibal Minute Repeater has four gongs, each with a different tone (Mi-Do-Re-Sol), sounding off on the hour when the repeater is activated. The hour sound is Sol and the minute sound is Mi.

All four gongs sound in three different sequences for the quarters:
1st quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol
2nd quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol/Sol-Re-Mi-Do
3rd quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol/Sol-Re-Mi-Do/Mi-Do-Re-Sol

The Jaquemarts on the dial are synchronized with the sound of the gongs and move to the minutes, quarters and hours, or to a combination of these units of time. In life-like form, the four Jaquemarts –Hannibal on his horse, scenes of Hannibal in fighting stance, and Hannibal’s elephant and army – tell the narrative of Hannibal and his eminent achievement. Ulysse Nardin remains among the rare manufacturers in the world to use Jaquemarts on the dial of its wristwatch repeaters.

Technical details
Model: Hannibal Minute Repeater
Limited Edition to 30 pieces
Reference 789-00

Caliber UN-78
36 jewels
Power-Reserve Approx. 70 h
Winding Manual winding

Westminster Carillon Tourbillon
Jaquemarts Minute Repeater
Striking of hours, quarters and minutes
Four different chimes (Mi-Do-Re-Sol)

Case, dial and strap
Case : Platinum
Diameter: 44 mm
Water-resistance: 30 m
Dial: Genuine granite dial
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Crown: Water-resistant
Band: Leather strap, with folding buckle

Frederique Constant Manufacture Zodiac 24H limited Edition ‘The Year of Goat’

In the Chinese calendar, a day is evenly divided into 12 periods and they are represented by the twelve Chinese zodiac signs (rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig), called the twelve terrestrial branches. Each period is equivalent to the present two hours; each period is evenly divided into eight quarters (original quarter, original first quarter, original second quarter, original third quarter, positive quarter, positive first quarter, positive second quarter and positive third quarter). Each quarter is 15 minutes, equivalent to the present quarter hour.     

To salute the long-standing Chinese traditional calendar system, independent Swiss watch brand Frederique Constant launched Manufacture Zodiac 24H limited edition with the coming of the year of goat in 2015.
Different from common watches, this is a 24-hour watch, and the hour hand takes a turn and runs 24 hours (the common watch runs 12 hours a circle) and the minute hand turns a circle and runs 120 minutes (the common watch runs 60 minutes a circle). On the whole dial plate, the scales of the twelve terrestrial branches replace the Arabic from 1 to 12 or Roman numerals; the outer ring is evenly divided into eight scales including the original quarter, original first quarter, original second quarter, original third quarter, positive quarter, positive first quarter, positive second quarter and positive third quarter. The position of the six o’clock is marked the “year of goat”, and all Chinese characters are showed in small seal script, adding a simple temperament.
To facilitate modern people’s use, the 24-hour scales are marked with Arabic numerals at the innermost circle, clear at a glance. The Manufacture Zodiac 24H limited watch carrying Frederique Constant in-house movement FC-724, which is the 16th manufacture movement developed by Frederique Constant.
The 24-hour full-automatic movement is decorated with the Perlage & Circular Côtes de Genève and is inset with 26 gems. It has 42-hour power reserve. As an integrated work developed by the young watch-making brand Frederique Constant from Geneva, it inherits Swiss watch-making culture of long standing and salutes ancient wise Chinese 12 two-hour timing system.
Stainless steel and Polished rose gold plated steel are available for the watch, and each type has 888 limited editions launched globally, worthy of taste and collection.

Year of the Goat
The Chinese Zodiac is based on a twelve year cycle, each year in that cycle is related to an animal sign. These animal signs are the rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig. 2015 is the year of the goat, marked at 6 O’Clock on the dial.

12 Zodiac Signs and Time

The Frederique Constant Zodiac Limited Edition has the twelve zodiac signs as the main index markers on its dial. One Chinese hour is two western hours. Each two hours has an animal zodiac sign:
  • Rat: 11 p.m. to 1 a.m. is the time rats actively seek food.

  • Ox: 1 to 3 a.m. is the time that oxen ruminate. 

  • Tiger: 3 to 5 a.m. is when tigers hunt prey.
  • Rabbit: 5 to 7 a.m. is when a jade rabbit pounds herbs.
  • Dragon: 7 to 9 a.m. is when dragons hover in the sky and give people rainfall. 

  • Snake: 9 to 11 a.m. is when snakes start to leave their burrows. 

  • Horse: 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. is when a horse is vigorous.
  • Goat: 1 to 3 when sheep eat grass and become stronger. 

  • Monkey: 3 to 5 p.m. is when monkeys become lively.
  • Rooster: 5 to 7 p.m. is when roosters return to their roost as it is dark
  • Dog: 7 to 9 p.m. is when dogs begin to carry out their duty to guard entrances. 

  • Pig: 9 to 11 p.m. is when all is quiet and pigs are sleeping soundly.
24 Hours
The small numbers 1-24 on the inner dial function as the GMT indicator to show what exact time the hour is.

Outer Track
There are small Chinese texts on the outside minute track. Each position is a traditional Chinese unit of decimal time reflecting a quarter (15mins) of western time. As the Chinese hour is equal to 2 hours, the outside minute track has 8 positions.

Manufacture Zodiac 24H, Reference: FC-724CC4H6
Polished stainless steel 3-parts case, diameter of 40.5 mm
Convex sapphire crystal, Hinged case back
Water-resistant to 3 ATM

FC-724 Manufacture caliber, automatic with 24 hours
Perlage & Circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 42-hour power reserve

Silver dial with the twelve Chinese Zodiac signs as index markers
Hand polished blue hands

Black alligator strap

24 hours, 120 minutes, 60 seconds

Limited edition   
888 pieces

Manufacture Zodiac 24H, Reference: FC-724CC4H4
Polished rose gold plated steel 3-parts case, diameter of 40.5 mm
Convex sapphire crystal, Hinged case back
Water-resistant to 3 ATM

FC-724 Manufacture caliber, automatic with 24 hours
Perlage & Circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 42-hour power reserve

Silver dial with the twelve Chinese Zodiac signs as index markers
Hand polished blue hands

Brown alligator strap

24 hours, 120 minutes, 60 seconds

Limited edition   
888 pieces

BALL Watch Engineer II Magneto S Automatic

As part of its constant quest to innovate and to build on the extraordinary technical prowess of its mechanical watches, BALL Watch Company presents the new Engineer II Magneto S equipped with the revolutionary A-PROOF® anti-magnetic device.

For many years BALL Watch has focused its research and development strategy on improving the anti-magnetic protection of its mechanical watches. The accuracy of a mechanical watch is easily affected by the magnetic fields to which we are exposed almost constantly in everyday life. The briefest of contacts with an artificial magnet may be enough to magnetize an automatic movement and cause the complete stoppage of the mechanism. According to accepted standards in watchmaking, an automatic watch is deemed "anti-magnetic" when its operation can resist a magnetic field of at least 4,800A/m without its accuracy being subsequently affected by more than 30 seconds per day.

BALL Watch unveils its stunning new concept of protection against magnetic fields. Developed and patented by BALL Watch, the A-PROOF® device is a completely new approach to the protection of a mechanical movement. The preservation of the workings of a watch caliber requires it to be enclosed in a casing that protects against the influence of magnetic fields. BALL Watch equips its antimagnetic models with specially constructed stainless steel cases which resist ferrite corrosion. Until now, the anti-magnetic casing has taken the form of a soft iron inner structure, consisting of a rear plate and a ring surrounding the movement and the dial. Soft iron, reinforced by the shape of the inner case, channels the magnetic fields and prevents them from entering the movement, thus avoiding any adverse effect on the accuracy of the watch. This process helped endow the most highly-developed BALL timepieces with anti-magnetic protection guaranteed for up to 12,000A/m.

The A-PROOF® device is based on cutting-edge developments in terms of both materials and construction. In collaboration with its network of leading Swiss industrial partners in the watchmaking and microtechnology fields, BALL Watch carefully selected mumetal – a material never before used in watchmaking – for the development of its new anti-magnetic protection device. Mumetal is an alloy of nickel, iron, copper and molybdenum with very high magnetic permeability, which enables it to attract and deviate static or low-frequency magnetic field lines, against which other methods of attenuation are relatively ineffective. This alloy therefore has anti-magnetic properties which are markedly superior to those of the above-mentioned soft iron and is used to manufacture magnetic shields for industry, research or high technology. Mumetal protects a mechanical watch against magnetic fields up to an astonishing record intensity of 80,000A/m.
In addition to this revolutionary new material, BALL Watch Company engineers sought to bypass the constant imprisonment of the movement in an anti-magnetic cage which renders the caliber mechanism of a watch equipped with a transparent background invisible. BALL Watch Company has thus developed an ingenious diaphragm mechanism that extends or retracts at will by simple circular motion of the bezel. In the fully closed position, the diaphragm locks the mumetal anti-magnetic protection cage. In the retracted position, the diaphragm therefore disappears to reveal the movement at work through the transparent case back of the Engineer II Magneto S. A genuine industrial feat, the diaphragm is also machined in mumetal with a thickness of just 0.06 mm. This feat of precision and technical mastery demonstrates the avant-garde role that BALL Watch Company plays in watchmaking innovation.

Beyond this sensational technical ability, the Engineer II Magneto S boasts a powerful and striking look from the first glance, with a case in stainless steel and a robust 42mm diameter, with a thickness of 12.9mm. The subtle and understated black dial boasts a finely silk-screened graduation. The flange features the main minute markers and is separated from the rest of the dial by a green circle, the corporate color of the BALL brand, which is also used for the second hand. The bezel is perfectly chiseled so as to enable easy manipulation when activating the diaphragm of the A-PROOF® device and only enhances the bold character of the timepiece.

The basic hours, minutes, seconds and date functions are ensured by a BALL RR1103-CSL caliber. This Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement guarantees the model the very best of Swiss precision and quality. The accuracy of this caliber has been certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The Engineer II Magneto S is equipped with BALL’s patented SpringLOCK® system. This mechanism has been developed in-house by BALL Watch engineers to guarantee the accuracy of movement upon heavy shock impact.
The balance-spring is protected by a "cage" designed to absorb the energy created when the watch is subjected to external impacts. Such impacts can cause standard mechanical movements to vary by up to approximately 60 seconds a day. The Spring LOCK® system reduces their effect by up to 66%, thus ensuring that the caliber remains accurate. Watch wearers can now freely engage in various sporting activities (e.g. golf), knowing that accurate time keeping can still be possible under external shock impacts. As is the case with many of the brand’s classic models, the "RR" monogram is delicately marked out at the end of the second hand, subtly recalling BALL’s "RailRoad" heritage. The Engineer II Magneto S is adorned with a strap in Cordura fabrics and a pin buckle.

One of the company’s guiding principles is that a watch should be easy to read both by day and by night. In order to ensure perfect time reading with its mechanical watches even in total darkness, BALL Watch Company uses cutting-edge Swiss technology involving the capture of H3 luminescent gas inside glass micro-tubes on all its models. These micro gas lights are then added to the dial and hands of the watch. The powerful light emitted naturally and continuously by the H3 gas means that the time can be read in pitch darkness. Furthermore, this technology is a hundred times more powerful than other methods of lighting commonly used in watchmaking.

The watch's exceptional qualities are rounded off by a screwed-in crown, an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, water-resistance to 100 meters and a shock resistance of 5,000Gs. The Engineer II Magneto S is the first BALL timepiece equipped with the revolutionary A-PROOF® device, which paves the way for a new generation of mechanical watches capable of facing the most adverse conditions.

Technical details
Model: Engineer II Magneto S Automatic Series
Model Number:  NM3022C-N1CJ-BK

Automatic caliber BALL RR1103-CSL
Chronometer certified COSC
SpringLOCK® patented anti-shock system

15 micro gas tubes on hour, minute, second hands and dial for night reading capability
Shock resistant to 5,000Gs
A-PROOF® patented anti-magnetic system to 80,000A/m
Water resistant to 100m/330ft
Hours, minutes, sweep seconds and date

Stainless steel
Ø 42mm, height 12.9mm
Rotating bezel controlling the A-PROOF® diaphragm mechanism
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Screwed-in crown


Cordura fabrics strap with standard buckle

Friday, January 30, 2015

Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097

In 2005, Breguet launched its iconic Tradition collection with the 7027 model, the first timepiece to showcase the mechanisms of the movement on top of the baseplate. Much imitated but never equalled, this collection has since filled out and this year welcomes an outstanding new model: the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097.

The new watch, like the rest of the collection, is inspired by the “subscription watches” and recalls the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet who first produced these one-hand watches in 1796. They were fitted with a very simple movement and sold by subscription: a down payment of a quarter of the price on order and the balance on delivery. Abraham-Louis Breguet also used the movements of his “subscription” watches for his first tact watches.

The Tradition 7097 pays further tribute to the mechanisms of the “subscription” and tact watches by revealing the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and other components of the movement, which are usually hidden beneath the baseplate. Trim embellishments enhance the visual balance displayed by the symmetrical bridges. The bridges and baseplate are peened according to a decorative technique that requires rare skill and faultless execution to achieve a regular and uniform finish. The gold winding rotor borrows its style from the movements of the period while a conventional engine-turned hobnail pattern, done by hand, highlights a dial in silvered gold offset at 12 o'clock. This type of dial can be found on many of the tact watches that Abraham-Louis Breguet made from 1799 onwards.
The new model gets its name from the retrograde seconds hand at 10 o'clock, which supplements the hours and minutes shown by Breguet-style open-tipped hands in blued steel. Breguet’s watchmakers show off the complication with the help of a circular-brushed semi-circle that also makes the other indications easy to read. To maintain the symmetry, the pare-chute is located at 4 o'clock. This Breguet invention, which protects the balance staff from shocks, can be identified at a glance as the emblematic feature of the Tradition collection. It is the forbear of all the shock-protection devices in use today, including the Incabloc system.

Nor does the new reference 7097 lag behind when it comes to the latest technology. Its 40mm case houses a movement with an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon pallets and a silicon Breguet overcoil balance spring that ensure exceptional stability of rate.

The Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 watch is the result of the technical and aesthetic excellence that Breguet consistently strives for in its modernisation of historical devices. Its austere styling honours the traditions of the brand, while its technical features are the prerogative of a watchmaking company that is resolutely building its future.

Technical details
REF. 7097BB/G1/9WU

18-carat white gold with a finely fluted case band
Sapphire-crystal caseback
40mm diameter
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres)

18-carat gold, silvered and engine-turned by hand, off-centre at 12 o'clock
Individually numbered and signed BREGUET
Chapter-ring with Roman numerals
Retrograde small seconds at 10 o'clock
Blued-steel BREGUET open-tipped hands

Self-winding. Numbered and signed BREGUET
Cal. 505SR1. 14½ lignes. 38 jewels
50-hour power-reserve
Straight-line inverted lever escapement with silicon pallets
BREGUET overcoil balance spring in silicon
3Hz frequency
Adjusted in 6 positions

Leather strap

Also available in 18-carat rose gold: Ref. 7097BR/G1/9WU

Henry & Ashe launches crowd funding campaign for its debut timepiece collection

Today we are introducing a new comer to ever growing micro -watch industry which made the luxurious timepieces accessible to connoisseurs who always look for wallet friendly luxury products. Henry & Ashe is an emerging brand that produces quality watches designed with the consumer in mind. The striking characteristics of a Henry & Ashe timepiece are simplicity and classic looks.
Born out of the idea that everyone has the right to a beautiful timepiece at an affordable price, Henry & Ashe offers reasonably priced watch that met the expectations of the boardroom and beyond, without the “affordable watch brand” stigma.  The brand debuts with the very first edition of Henry & Ashe timepieces which will be sold through online crowd funding campaign. The first series offers a slim and minimalistic timepiece that also boasts a bold design enough to get noticed.
Its case size, 40mm diameter, makes suitable to wear on varying wrist sizes with comfortably.  It is made of surgical grade 316L stainless steel which is extremely durable and ideal for everyday use. Inside beats a Swiss Made Ronda movement, which offers precise time keeping and long-lasting battery life.
The brand has just launched a crowd funding campaign on Kick-starter for the 1st Edition Henry & Ashe timepiece collection. By pledging support, the backers can take advantage of the special Kickstarter price. The first 25 backers will receive a Henry & Ashe timepiece for $89.00 (45% off the retail price of $159.99). The next 50 backers will receive a Henry & Ashe timepiece for $99.00 (35% off retail price). All additional backers will receive a Henry & Ashe timepiece for $119.00 (25% off retail price). Every Henry & Ashe timepiece comes standard with 316L stainless steel, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a Swiss Ronda movement.
Case diameter: 40mm
Case Thickness: 6.50mm
Movement: Ronda 762
Case material: 316L stainless steel
Sapphire Glass
Genuine leather strap

Please visit the following link to support the Henry & Ashe crowd funding campaign:-

Bell & Ross BR03-92 MILITARY TYPE

Paying tribute to the military who were the first professionals to use the wristwatch as fundamental instruments for their missions, Bell & Ross has unveiled an authentic military version of the BR 03 Ceramic: the BR 03 Military type.

Staying faithful to the military technical specifications, the khaki dial is perfectly readable both day and night, the sapphire crystal is scratch-resistant and the movement is a high-precision.
In a nod to authentic military watches, the screen-printed red symbol on the dial («MT» for Military Type) reveals the use of a photoluminescent coating (Superluminova®) which enables easy reading in the dark.
Made entirely from ceramic, the BR 03 Military Type is lightweight, high-performance and virtually, unscratchable. The anti-reflective matte black of the case and the khaki of the dial, which is the colour of the military uniform, make a superbly camouflaged watch.

Technical details
Movement: automatic mechanical. Calibre BR-CAL.302.
Crystal: antireflective sapphire.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Case: 42 mm in diameter. Matte black ceramic.
Strap: Black rubber and khaki heavy-duty canvas.
Dial: Khaki. Superluminova®-filled numerals, indices and hour  and minute hands.
Buckle: pin. Black PVD coated steel.

Thursday, January 29, 2015

CVSTOS CHALLENGE CHRONO 2 Black Forged Carbon Honolulu

Ever since 2013, Swiss luxury watch brand CVSTOS is "one of the main official sponsors" of the Hawaiian THRIATHLON in Honolulu. The brand thus celebrates the new TRAITHLON with a new model in order to honour all the men and women who make up this universe of high physical and mental impact. This timepiece is dedicated to the competitor, to his better management of efforts and performance during any such race (swimming, running, and cycling).

This tireless search for applied state-of-the-art technologies has guided CVSTOS towards the implementation of this new material now used in various fields of application such as aerospace, or in the car racing racing, or even in the very closed circle of hyper-cars used to create the chassis which has to meet all kinds of demands.
Based on this new concept, the CARBON HONOLULU, sober and sleek, either carved by the latest technologies or created from moulds or materials arranged in random form, with a specific mixture of carbon fibres (black) and coloured nano-fibre glass (red, blue, orange, etc.) and Epoxy resins, from which any forms of air bubbles are eliminated either from the resin mixture, or the fibres' overlays to finally obtain a homogeneous and compact mass, treated after transformation through the last cooking process in the autoclave oven at a controlled atmosphere and temperature. When exiting the oven, each timepiece has its own aesthetic.

Thus a new standard of exclusivity is born and established, giving this new model of an elegance and of an incomparable style, a sporting prowess.

Technical details
Challenge Case    Tonneau-shapped
53.7 mmx41mmx13.35mm
Polished,  bead-blasted pockets
Caseback: Open, sapphire crystal
Crystal: Sapphire, none-reflecting coating
Water-resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Screws: titanium grade 5
Crown: screwed, grade 5 polished titanium, rubber insert
Push-pieces: titanium grade 5

Arabic numerals, CVSTOS TECHNOLOGY exclusive design. Anti-reflective crystal sapphire.
Indexes: Super-Luminova treated
Hands: Pierced, chromed and Super-Luminova treated

Calibre    CVSTOS 577 Automatic chronograph
Power-reserve: 42 hours
Jewels: 25
Frequency: 28'800 vibrations per hour

Chronograph, power-reserve indicator, date

Black & Red

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

GUCCI timepieces & JEWELRY presents new stylish additions to the GUCCI DIVE collection

In 2013 Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry introduced the Gucci Dive, a genuine diver sports watch with high-performance mechanics. Now, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is expanding this flagship collection with eight new Gucci Dive quartz extensions in a myriad materials and colours.

Each of these lifestyle timepieces features the traditional diver aesthetic, incorporating the unidirectional rotating bezel, and expressing a strong sports allure. The watches are crafted from stainless steel and are presented in a wide variety of personal styles, thanks to the mix of classic, edgy or sporty models.

These bold ‘Swiss Made’ watches all feature a quartz movement and offer high water resistance, to 200 metres. Sizes in the collection vary: three come in a small 32mm, three others in a larger 40mm variant, and two more are offered in an extra-large 45mm.
For those who like to make a statement, the duo of bold 45 mm models is characterised by choice. A two-tone blue version with a blue matt dial and stainless steel bracelet upholds the nautical theme, whilst a truly masculine all-black and rubber variant takes Gucci Dive styling to its most powerful expression.

In the smaller and large pieces, it’s Gucci’s signature Italian details that imbues each timepiece with its unique personality. The iconic green-red-green Gucci web stripe is used to add a flash of colour to a white matt dial, for a fresh look. Accents of red on the all-black 40mm version drive up the dynamism of the piece, and in contrast, a softer allure is achieved elsewhere with a pink sun-brushed dial.
Each of the timepieces shows the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock with the date and Swiss Made stamp at 6 o’clock. As a final seal of quality and authenticity, these new watches have the historic House crest logo engraved on the case back. This emblem tells the Gucci story through a series of meaningful symbols: a knight carrying a suitcase and handbag instead of a shield and sword harks back to Guccio Gucci’s time spent as a bellboy, and a rose stands for beauty. The Gucci name flies above, emblazoned on a ribbon.

This eight-strong Gucci Dive collection showcases Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry’s effortless ability to develop different watch styles around a single concept, infusing the world of sports with trademark Italian style.

Breva Geneve Génie 03: A Speedometer on The Wrist

After the successful launches of Génie 01 (the world’s first wristwatch with time, altimeter and barometer) in 2013 and its upgraded version Génie 02 (Terre & Air models) in 2014, the young luxury watch brand from Geneva unveils this year, the Génie 03, the world’s first-ever wristwatch with a functional speedometer.

Till now, watches could only calculate speed by using an engraved scale marked in miles or kilometers per hour, using the sweep second hand or chronograph functions to calculate the speed against a measured mile or kilometer. While this would satisfy certain requirements, it was not a “real-time” indication with constant refreshing.
The world premier timepiece Génie 03 is fitted with a patented “instant speed” scientific measurement mechanism, with a proprietary extrusion mechanism that creates a unique look. When extended to indicate the speed, it stands 6mm proud of the watch itself. Within the Titanium G5 extrusion mechanism, comprised of 45 components, are hemispherical special alloy Robinson cups, in the manner of an anemometer. The classic device for measuring wind speed, it has been adapted in Génie 03 to display speeds of 20 to 200 km/hour or 10 to 125 mph.
When worn on the wrist of a cyclist, motorcyclist, speedboat operator or automobilist, with wrist exposed to the moving air, Génie 03 will indicate the speed with a red hand, against printed inner speed indexes and an engraved lacquered field for the external speed scale on the speedometer’ bezel. Its readings are instantaneous and require no calculating on the part of the user, nor does the watch need the user to locate a measured mile or kilometer.
Génie 03 is water resistant to 30 meters at all times, with speedometer open or closed, and dust resistant even with the speedometer active. Naturally, Génie 03 performs the regular watch function of telling the time, with hours, minutes and seconds, as well as indication of power reserve. Winding is automatic, the power reserve a healthy 60 hours.
Technical details
Proprietary mechanical automatic movement developed exclusively by Breva
Caliber: BRE03.001
Diameter: 35 mm
Number of components: 230
Number of jewels: 34
Balance frequency: 4 Hz displayed balance wheel
Power reserve: 60 hours through front facing skeletonized barrel
Automatic system, micro rotor engraved with the Breva compass rose
Patented instant speed scientific measurement with proprietary extrusion mechanism
Hemispherical Patented alloy Robinson cups
Titanium G5 extrusion mechanism
Display: 20 to 200 km/hour or 10 to 125 mph
Number of components: 45

Hours, minutes, seconds, instant speed, power reserve indicator

Case material: titanium G5
Dimensions: 44.70 mm x 15.70 mm
Thickness with anemometer closed: 17.50 mm
Thickness with the anemometer open: 23.50 mm
Number of components: 83
Crown: setting crown at 4 o'clock
Pusher: speedometer activation pusher at 2 o'clock
Crystals: sapphire crystal and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water resistant movement: 30 meters (at all times)
Water resistant speedometer: 30 meters (speedometer closed)
Dust resistant: speedometer active

Time dial: white gold indexes on smoked translucent sapphire crystal dial
Speedometer dial: printed inner speed indexes and engraved lacquered field external speed scale on bezel
Speed scales: available in kilometers or miles per hour measurements

Natural rubber strap with titanium G5 pin buckle

Suggested retail price
Price: CHF 48.800 + TAX

Monday, January 26, 2015

IWC Schaffhausen Expands Its In-House Movements

Swiss watch manufacture IWC Schaffhausen is expanding its expertise in the design and manufacture of its own movements and will establish three new calibre families in the years ahead to complement its movements portfolio. These mechanisms will set new technical and aesthetic standards and underscore the Swiss luxury watch brand’s expertise as a developer and manufacturer of movements.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52010
The first of these movements to be launched is the 52000-calibre family, followed by automatic movements in the new 69000- and 42000-calibre families. The company’s aim is to further consolidate its in-house watchmaking expertise. The new movements developed and manufactured in Schaffhausen feature several technical improvements which, among other things, increase their accuracy. Apart from having new technical features, IWC’s calibres will undergo a design overhaul that will also enhance their aesthetic appeal.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52610 (front view)
On top of this, IWC is once again investing in its Schaffhausen home, the location of the company’s headquarters since 1868, with the construction of a new production and technology centre in the Merishausertal on the outskirts of the city. When IWC moves into the building in October 2016,  the entire case and parts manufacturing departments along with the movement assembly will be relocated to the new facility.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52610 (back view)
The newly designed in-house 52000-calibre family with bidirectional Pellaton winding has already been selected for use in four models in the 2015 Portugieser collection. The new movements are equipped with two barrels. They not only supply the watches with sufficient energy for a  7-day power reserve but also drive complications like the new annual calendar or the perpetual calendar. Another innovation in this particular movement is the material: the winding pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic while the rotor bearing is made of white ceramic – to be more precise, zirconium oxide. IWC Schaffhausen is one of few watch manufacturers worldwide to use these practically wear-free, high-tech materials for parts in the movement.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52615 (front view)
The indexless balance has an increased frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 beats per hour). Combined with the Breguet spring, bent into shape using traditional techniques, this guarantees maximum precision. Only very few watches worldwide have such a high oscillation rate together with a 7-day power reserve.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52615 ( back view)
The 52000-calibre family also sets new aesthetic standards. The design and finish of the movements in the new calibre family have undergone another upgrade. The proportions of the rotor and the inset “Probus Scafusia” medallion are noticeably more delicate. Together with the transparent sapphire-glass back, this provides a more open view of the technological features inside the watch.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52850 (front view)
In the perpetual calendar models, the rotors are made of solid 18-carat red gold and embellished with a “Probus Scafusia” relief engraving. These are complemented by blued screws, which for many watch connoisseurs are an indispensable characteristic of an exquisite in-house movement. The decoration with circular graining and Geneva stripes, the interplay of red jewels, blue screws and black ceramic elements with the red gold of the rotor: together, they convey the overall IWC  impression of quality appropriate for an in-house movement like this.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52850
Despite the elaborate ornamentation, the movements have retained all of their technical appeal. IWC Schaffhausen thus remains true to the engineering ethos established by company founder F. A. Jones when he introduced leading-edge production methods.

The overhauled calibre design is also to be incorporated into the new IWC 69000- and 42000-calibre families, which will now be gradually introduced. The new 69380-calibre chronograph movement is the rugged, high-performance drive that forms the cornerstone of the IWC 69000-calibre family. The chronograph is a classic column-wheel design and takes the energy it needs from a bidirectional pawl winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism. The dial contains three subdials: for the hour counter at “9 o’clock”; for the minute counter at “12 o’clock”; and for the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. In contrast with many other chronograph movements, the counters at “6 o’clock” and  “9 o’clock” have swapped positions.

Apart from this, IWC Schaffhausen has plans to present the 42110 automatic movement from the new 42000-calibre family with a 42-hour power reserve. Like the 69380 calibre, this movement has a bidirectional pawl-winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism which is known as a “cliquet magique”. The movements in the two new in-house 69000- and 42000-calibre families will be used primarily for IWC watches in the entry-level price segment.

THE IWC 52000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The new 52000-calibre family marks the start of a new wave of in-house movements from IWC. The pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic, while the core of the rotor is made of white ceramic, which leads to almost zero abrasion. A state-of the-art balance with Breguet spring and two barrels guarantee an increased frequency of 4 hertz, ensuring a high rate of accuracy and long power reserve at the same time. The aesthetics have been enhanced through blued screws and a solid-gold rotor on high complications.

Featured in the following Portugieser timepieces:
THE IWC 42000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The new small Automatic base movement with a diameter of 27 millimeters has a power reserve of 42 hours and a bidirectional pawl-winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism which is known as a “cliquet magique”. The very robust 42000 calibre with its frequency of 4 hertz will be used primarily for entry-level automatic watches in the IWC portfolio.

THE IWC 69000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The new small base movement 69000 calibre with a diameter of 30 millimeters will be introduced in entry-level chronograph watches. The dial contains three subdials: for the hour counter at “9 o’clock”; for the minute counter at “12 o’clock”; and for the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. It comes with a bi-directional pawl-winding system, a power reserve of 50 hours and a frequency of 4 hertz.

THE IWC 59000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 59000 calibre convinces with its high frequency of 4 hertz and guarantees a high rate of accuracy and very long power reserve of up to 8 days. Functionalities such as the big date can be added to this movement thanks to IWC’s modular construction method.

Featured in the following Portugieser timepiece:
THE IWC 89000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 89000 calibre with integrated mechanical chronograph including flyback function keeps its characteristic display with its hour and minute counters combined in one totalizer. The movement with its diameter of 30 millimeters has a power reserve of 68 hours and a frequency of 4 hertz. For all high complications, the movement is newly available with blued screws and a solid-gold rotor.

Featured in the following Portugieser timepieces:
THE IWC 50000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 50000-calibre family represents a wide range of different movements that have one thing above all in common: their unmistakably large dimensions. The usage of the Pellaton winding system and a Breguet spring maximizes the precision. 1,960 complete revolutions of the rotor wind the movement for a full 7 days. For all high complications, the movement is newly available with blued screws and a solid-gold rotor.

Featured in the following Portugieser timepiece:
THE IWC 94000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 94000 calibre is a hand-wound movement. It is powered by two barrels, which provide the higher torque to drive the constant-force tourbillon. Taking up almost a quarter of the entire bottom plate, the tourbillon is impressive for its sheer size alone. The two barrels of the 94900 calibre aligned in parallel guarantee a minimum of two days’ constant power. All this time, the seconds hand mounted on the titanium cage of the tourbillon advances in one-second intervals. Throughout the remaining time of the four-day power reserve, the tourbillon continues to run evenly, following the rhythm of the balance, which oscillates at the rate of 2.5 hertz, or 18,000 beats per hour.

Featured in the following Portugieser timepiece:
THE IWC 98000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 98000-calibre hand-wound movement has been regularly enhanced for over 80 years. The movement includes an elongated index (the “F. A. Jones arrow”), which facilitates quick, easy adjustment of the spring length, and a three-quarter bridge decorated with Geneva stripes. The diameter measures 37.8 millimeters and the frequency is 2.5 hertz. The only exception is the movement used in the Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound, which moves at 4 hertz.

Featured in the following Portugieser timepieces:
THE IWC 80000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The movements of the 80000-calibre family offer a maximum protection against abrasion and other defects. They are easily accessed for servicing and have been continuously improved in terms of reliability and shock absorption. Featuring an integrated shock absorption system that protects the rotor bearing, the precision of IWC timepieces is guaranteed even under extreme conditions.

F.P.Journe Nouvelle Octa Lune

Prestigious luxury watch manufacture F.P.Journe presents the Nouvelle Octa Lune, a new interpretation of emblematic Octa collection with a more visible reading of the time and a date twice as large.

The 2 dials of the Nouvelle Octa Lune are in 18K Gold. The first dial, off center, with embossed hour numbers surfaced with a diamond tool has been enlarged for a better reading of the time.The second dial features a very large date in aperture at 11h, the retrograde power reserve indicator on a scale of 120 efficient hours (5 days) at 9h and the phases of the moon at 8h.
The mechanical movement with automatic winding (caliber 1300.3) is manufactured in 18K rose Gold. It is winded mono directionally by the F.P.Journe 22K Gold rotor for an unequalled efficiency. The New Octa Lune is available with a case in 40 or 42 mm (not any more in 38mm)in Platinum or in 18K red Gold, a red or white Gold and silver dial, on leather strap, Platinum or red Gold bracelet.
Technical details
Calibre Exclusive F.P. Journe1300.3in18KroseGold
Mechanical with automatic winding
Rotor in 22KGold, off centre and guilloché
Winding speed: 274rotations/24hours(anticlockwise)

Dimensions of the movement
Overall diameter: 34.60mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40mm
Overall height: 5.95mm
Height of winding system: 3.10mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20mm

Four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600v/h,(3Hz)
Inertia: 0.10mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dialup: ±300°/24hdialup: ±220°

Linear lever escapement 15teeth
Autonomy: 160±12hours

Main characteristics
Mono directional automatic winding
Instantaneous date change

Three position crown
Correction of the date: position2, anticlockwise
Correction of the moon: position 2, clockwise
Correction of the time: position3

Off centre hours, minutes and small second
Large date in aperture
Power reserve at 9h
Phases of the moon at 8h

Circular Côtes de Genève on bridges
Partial circular graining on base plate
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends

Platinum PT 950 or 18K red Gold
Diameter: 40 or 42 mm
Total height: 10.07 mm

Number of parts
Jewels: 37
Movement without dial: 289
Cased up on leather strap: 312

Mühle-Glashütte: A teaser on the new Mühle Watches to be launched in 2015

In the past months, the watchmakers and designers from Mühle-Glashütte have worked intensely on the new models for the year 2015. As a family business in the fifth generation, Mühle-Glashütte places great value on sovereignty and independence. Each timepiece from Mühle-Glashütte reflects the passion, heritage and values of the traditional Glashütte brand –which also applies to the design and functionality of the timepieces. Hence, the bold and reduced Mühle design is drafted in-house. How the origination process of a Mühle-watch looks like can be demonstrated with the watches of the M 29 Classic family.

It is a long way from the idea for new models, the first sketch of the design to the finished Mühle timepiece – a process followed through from start to finish at the headquarters of the family business in Glashütte/Germany. CEO Thilo Mühle and a three-person team, composed of designers and brand specialists, are responsible for the first drafts. This is where the ideas for the classic timepieces, the sporty instrument watches, the nautical wristwatches as well as those for the manufacture models of the R. Mühle und Sohn line emerge.

“As a medium-sized family business, the policy of short distances has proven itself – also in the field of design”, says Thilo Mühle, head of Mühle-Glashütte. “From our experience, the best ideas originate directly within our company headquarters, because this is where our heritage resides. In addition to this, other design influences and feedback from the market are considered as well.” A Mühle timepiece is identifiable as such at first glance. One of the features that stand out the most is the bold and open character of the dial design. This reduced design is derived from one of the core values, after which Mühle-Glashütte designs their timepieces: the optimal legibility of time. This is a result of the over 145 year old history of Mühle in the production of precise measurement instruments and the aspiration that the measurements can be conceived precisely and with one glance.

With the M 29 Classic family, the designers wanted to go a step further and were inspired by historic dial indicator gauges from the company founder Robert Mühle, which were designed during the beginning of the twentieth century. These instruments displayed mechanically measurements accurately up to the thousandth of a millimeter. “I have had the idea to convey the traditional design of my great-great-grandfather’s dial gauges into the modern age for a while”, says Thilo Mühle. “The design is timeless and the fact, that these instruments still function impeccably and without deviation for over 100 years, fascinates me.”

Before the drafting process, the different versions of the traditional dial gauges and tachometers from Robert Mühle’s era were examined and the basic design elements were defined and collected. This allowed the design team to notice for example the timeless and precise scaling, the scale inscription inside and out, different mark lengths or the usage of clear-cut hands without a counterbalance.

The task was to translate these and other design elements from the original instruments into the design language of the wristwatches of Mühle-Glashütte. Subsequently, different drafts were discussed repeatedly within the large team. During a strenuous coordination process, further preliminary drafts were developed before the final model was chosen.

The results of this intense process are paralleling its historical inspiration down to the smallest detail. The delicate, black scaling and clear-cut, dark hands are a clear contrast to the crème colored dials. The five-minute scaling upon the ascending outer ring frames the precise minute track. In combination with the red second hand, the time can be read precisely accurate. Red indices at three, six and twelve o’clock offer further reference points and emphasize the instrumental character of the timepiece. These design features are not only included in the model with centre second. As a family addition, the M 29 Classic Kleine Sekunde (small second) was introduced in 2014 as well.

Over the past few years, Mühle-Glashütte has continued to expand its production and manufacturing capacities, to grow sustainably and with caution. Due to the new CNC-work center, the increase in personnel structure as well as in-house training, the vertical range of manufacture has been consistently increased.

Product development also follows this long-term strategy with a clearly structured collection policy, which is based on watch families. With this in mind, it will be interesting to see which new model variations of the M 29 Classic family the designers and developers from Mühle-Glashütte will exhibit at this year’s Baselworld.

Sunday, January 25, 2015

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Collection Celebrates 75th Anniversary (1939 -2015): A Special Report on Portugieser Legends

Launched in 1939, the Portugieser line by IWC is one of the most revered watch collections from the Schaffhausen based watch manufacture. In 2015, IWC Schaffhausen is celebrating the 75th birthday of a watch family steeped in tradition: the Portugieser. To mark this memorable milestone, the prestigious watch brand has enriched the legendary Portugieser collection with new horology creations that come with  technological and design modifications as well as new features. Furthermore, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer is developing more of its own in-house movements and plans to launch three new calibre families in the years ahead. Initiating this move is the 52000-calibre family, which is found in four models in the new Portugieser collection.  The newly designed annual calendar celebrates its debut and the perpetual calendar with its digital large date display is likewise welcomed into the Portugieser portfolio. Before exploring in to the Portugieser 75th anniversary collection, we just look back to the origins of this prestigious watch collection.

In 1939, when the first “big wristwatch” left the factory, neither its eye-catching size nor its purist dial and simple, round case conformed to contemporary ideals. Popular taste demanded dainty, wherever possible rectangular, watches in the art deco style. The large case with its grooved bezel – the term used to describe the channelled recess in the ring that holds the glass in place – together with the straight strap horns ran counter to the spirit of the time and its penchant for curlicues and conspicuous accessories.
International Watch Company (IWC), Portugieser Ref. 325 (Circa 1939)
By contrast, the predecessor to today’s Portugieser timekeeper had alternating Arabic numerals with simple hour markers that harmonized perfectly with the narrow, leaf-shaped feuille hands. A facet separated the centre of the dial while the chapter ring featured the “chemin-de-fer” (“railway”) style popular in pocket watches at the time. These graphic elements appeared once more in the small seconds sub-dial at “6 o’clock”.
International Watch Company (IWC ) Portugieser Ref. 325 (Circa 1939)
If time is defined as a sequence of events, the 75-year history of the Portugieser watch family is especially rich in unusual occurrences in the art of watchmaking. It all starts with the story surrounding its origins, and how, in the late 1930s, two Portuguese businessmen ordered wristwatches with the precision of marine chronometers from the International Watch Co. At the time, the only way of providing the requested accuracy was with a voluminous pocket watch calibre. This was the reason why the watchmakers decided to take the 74-calibre hunter pocket watch movement and later the 98 calibre – both of which fortunately have the crown on the right-hand side – and to house them in wristwatch cases.
International Watch Company (IWC) Portugieser Ref. 325 (Circa 1942)
The first of the new pocket-watch-style wristwatches (Ref. 325) left the factory in 1939. The watch, which was unassumingly listed as a “large wristwatch”, shared the fate of other iconic IWC models. It was way ahead of its time. By the early 1980s, only a few hundred of them had been produced. It was not until 1993 that, now known as the Portugieser, it was to celebrate its triumphant comeback.

In 1967, at the watch fair in Basel, IWC presented the IWC Yacht Club Automatic (Ref. 811 A/AD), the predecessor of today’s Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. This magnificent men’s watch was made for the rigours of the open sea. Its movement, featuring the efficient Pellaton winding system, is spring-suspended in the case, bearing-mounted on rubber buffers and thus had dual shock-resistance. Exclusiveness combined with ruggedness and suitability for everyday use ensured that the Yacht Club became one of IWC’s bestselling watches.
International Watch Company (IWC) Portugieser Anniversary Watch Ref. 5441 (Circa 1993)
To mark IWC Schaffhausen’s 125th anniversary in 1993, the Portugieser watch line was reborn. Under the name “Portugieser”, the company produced a limited special edition that referenced the legendary story of the striking “men’s pocket watch” from the 1930s. The Anniversary edition (Ref. 5441) adopted not only its uncluttered dial design but also the tradition of the voluminous pocket watch movement. Its size, originally unappreciated, now established a new order of magnitude for wristwatches that was to revolutionize the industry and is highly popular all over the world to this day.
IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Ref. 5240 (Circa 1995)
In the following years, the Portugieser line continued to feature new and striking complications and scaled the peaks of haute horlogerie. In 1995, for example, the extremely complex Minute Repeater (Ref. 5240) and the Chronograph with Split-Seconds Hand (Ref. 3712) were unveiled.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Ref. 3712 (Circa 1995)
In the year 2000, the IWC-manufactured 7-day 5000 calibre in the Portugieser Automatic 2000 (Ref. 5000), which had been 5 years in the making, marked a technological quantum leap in the history of automatic movements. Among other things, it incorporated bidirectional Pellaton winding and a balance with a Breguet spring for maximum precision. The limited edition sold out in no time and was the foundation for the lasting success of the Portugieser family.
IWC Portugieser Automatic Ref. 5000 (Circa 2000)
In 2003, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5021) with the newly developed calendar mechanism was further proof of IWC innovation at its best.
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar “Double Moon” Ref. 5021 (Circa 2003)
The timepiece combined a perpetual calendar with a perpetual moon phase display and a 7-day power reserve generated by the Pellaton pawl-winding system. The display showing the moon in the northern and southern hemispheres diverges by just 1 day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. In 2004, the manufacture introduced the Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère (Ref. 5042).
IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Ref. 5042
In 2005, the limited Portugieser F. A. Jones (Ref. 5442) with manual winding was launched as a classic memorial to the company’s founder. Its IWC-manufactured 98290 calibre takes some of its design cues from the first F. A. Jones movements, such as the elongated index and the three quarter bridge decorated with Geneva stripes.

A further example of watchmaking extravagance joined the Portugieser complications in 2007: the regulateur with separate hour, minute and seconds displays (Ref. 5444). Featured below is a new reference of same model (Ref. 5446) launched in  2008.

IWC -Portugieser Regulateur Tourbillon Ref. 5446 (2008)
In 2008, a Portugieser Hand-Wound (Ref. 5445) featured in the IWC Vintage Collection. With its railway-track-style chapter ring and arched-edge front glass, the watch bore an uncanny resemblance to the 1939 original but, from a technical point of view, represented the state of the art.
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Vintage Ref. 5445 (2008)
In 2010, IWC celebrated another “Portugieser” year with a host of fascinating new products. Leading the way was the flagship of the collection, the Portugieser Grande Complication (Ref. 3774).
The Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044) combined the magic of a floating tourbillon with the logic of a date hand that reverts to its starting position.

With its numerous stylistic references, the Portugieser Hand-Wound (Ref. 5454) bridges the gap between the original Portugieser and the present. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3902) takes up the tradition of the 1967 Yacht Club Automatic and brings a sporty note to the Portugieser family.

In 2011, the Portugieser line was enriched by the addition of the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia (Ref. 5041). It is the most exclusive and complicated mechanical watch ever made by IWC. It took the project team at IWC Schaffhausen10 years to develop and build this spectacular masterpiece.
IWC Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia (Ref. 5041)
Complications such as the patented constant-force tourbillon, sidereal time and the times of sunrise and sunset are testimony to the inventiveness of IWC’s watch makers. The individually calculated star chart and the wealth of possible configurations make each timepiece unmistakable and unique in its own right. In 2013, the Portugieser Hand Wound Eight Days (Ref. 5102) with an 8-day power reserve and the Portugieser Chronograph Classic (Ref. 3904) with an in-house chronograph brought the exciting and eventful history of the Portugieser family to a temporary halt.

In 2015, the Portugieser 75 the anniversary collections are launched. This exceptional anniversary collection offers most of the horology complications including Annual Calendar, Perpetual Calendar, Tourbillon, Minute Repeater, Chronograph and Moon phases. Below is a video on the Portugieser 75 the anniversary collection.
The new Portugieser Annual Calendar (Ref. 5035) is IWC’s first annual calendar. The month, date and day are shown in three separate, semicircular windows at “12 o’clock”.  The date switching mechanism is able to take the differing lengths of the individual months into account but not those for the differing numbers of days in February owing to leap years. The newly developed 52850 calibre has twin barrels to supply the additional torque required to advance the three display discs.
IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar (Ref. 5035)
Thanks to the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. 3972), the Portugieser watch family now includes a model featuring a large digital display for the date and month.
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. 3972)
This exclusive timepiece brings together all IWC’s expertise in its in-house 89801 calibre, which has a perpetual calendar featuring a leap year indicator and quick action switch for the large displays as well as a chronograph with flyback function.

The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. 5102) is right at the heart of the watch family. Its purist design is starkly reminiscent of the original Portugieser (Ref. 325) from the 1930s. But its IWC-manufactured 59215 calibre with an 8-day power reserve is at the leading edge of the industry.
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. 5102)
The most important design change in the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3905) is immediately obvious: the case diameter has been reduced from 45.4 millimetres to 43.5 millimetres. IWC has heeded requests from many potential buyers who expressed a wish for a slightly smaller version of the sportiest model in the Portugieser watch line. The width of the new rubber strap has also been modified to fit the watch’s character: slim and sporty.
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3905)
Thanks to its elegant design, moderate case height and eminent suitability for everyday use, the Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. 3714) seems destined to retain its status as the most popular of all the Portugieser watches in this anniversary year.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. 3714)
For the new collection, IWC has further improved the technological and design features of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a double moon (Ref. 5034) and the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a single moon (Ref. 5033).
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a double moon (Ref. 5034)
From 2015, both models will be equipped with IWC-manufactured movements from the new IWC 52000-calibre family, featuring solid red gold rotors and blued screws. The watches will also have arched-edge front glasses and luxurious Santoni straps. For the first time ever, the dial of the double-moon model comes with the railway track-style chapter ring typical of the Portugieser, while the moon phase display sparkles attractively with a panoply of tiny gold and silver stars.

Starting this year, too, the Portugieser Automatic (Ref. 5007) will be powered by an in-house movement from the new 52000-calibre family. The legendary Pellaton winding system has been further improved: the pawls, automatic wheel and rotor bearing are now made of extremely hard, wear-resistant ceramic; and two barrels, rather than just one, build up an impressive 7-day power reserve with a frequency of 4 hertz.

For 2015, IWC is making further modifications to the appearance of the Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5046). The new arched-edge front glass makes the watch appear slimmer. With its exclusive Santoni alligator leather strap and the newly designed in-house 51900 calibre, a timepiece swathed in mystery radiates an even greater attraction.
IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5046)
Featuring one of the most sophisticated of watch making complications, the Portugieser Minute Repeater (Ref. 5449) continues to fascinate lovers of precision watch mechanics.
IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater (Ref. 5449)
For five years now, the Portugieser Grande Complication (Ref. 3776) has been a union of some of haute horlogerie’s greatest milestones, including the perpetual calendar, perpetual moon phase display and minute repeater.
IWC Portugieser Grande Complication (Ref. 3776)
The dial is now clearer and more composed, while the engraving on the back of the case takes the form of a compass rose. Both the red gold and platinum versions will be available in a limited edition of 250 watches each.

The Portugieser Tourbillon Hand Wound (Ref. 5463) with its filigree “whirlwind” will remain a source of delight to connoisseurs of precision watchmaking.

Five models in the 2015 Portugieser collection feature an arched-edge sapphire glass. It makes the case look slimmer and underscores the watch’s classic elegance. The strap horn, which closely follows the contours of the case, combined with the slightly curved lugs ensure that the watch fits more comfortably even on a slimmer wrist.

The luxurious alligator leather straps made by Italian shoe manufacturer Santoni are among the best that traditional craftsmanship has to offer. One of the secrets of Santoni’s success is the nuanced shading of the leather. Elaborately finished by hand, every strap comes with an exclusive patina-like shimmer with its own individual colour tones. To achieve this effect, the surface of the leather is polished with a variety of different pastes until it has the desired shading and a perfect sheen.

New in-house movements
The focus on manufacturing its own movements and pride in its own watchmaking capabilities are nothing new in Schaffhausen. The in-house movements in the new 52000-, 69000- and 42000-calibre families also feature numerous technical improvements which, among other things, make them more accurate. The integration of more ceramic components has made the automatic winding system practically wear-free.

The 52000-calibre family represents the introduction of a new aesthetic to the movements in the Portugieser line. In the calibres of the 52000 family used for the Portugieser premium models, the engraved rotor is made of solid 18-carat red gold and is complemented by blued screws, which is an indispensable characteristic of an exquisite in-house movement for many watch connoisseurs. The decoration with circular graining and Geneva stripes, the interplay of red jewels, blue screws and black ceramic elements with the red gold of the rotor: together they convey an overall impression of quality that is in keeping with an in-house movement of this kind.

Despite the elaborate ornamentation, the movements still look highly technical. IWC Schaffhausen thus remains true to the engineering ethos for which company founder F. A. Jones laid the cornerstone with production methods that were at the cutting edge of the industry in his time. The decoration of watch movements has a long history in Schaffhausen. Even the first F. A. Jones calibres featured engraving and decorative elements. The reason for this lies in the then common practice among American watchmakers of presenting movements openly in their shop window displays. This gave end-customers a chance to familiarize themselves with the complex internal mechanism, even if they never actually saw the movement in the finished watches.

Note: The article does not cover all  Portugieser models produced by IWC Schaffhausen. You can discover them by visiting[ IWC Product Archives ]page.

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