Sunday, January 18, 2015

De Bethune DB25T Zodiac

As the proud standard-bearer of a genuinely exclusive approach to Haute Horlogerie, the DB25T by De Bethune makes innovation the very heart of its construction reflecting a proud horological tradition. This creation features references to the imposing tower clocks that are still enthroned in certain European cities and which have been an infinite source of inspiration for horologists wishing to convey their beauty and their grandeur through the ages.

Table clocks or grandfather clocks, pocket watches and now wristwatches: the very essence of this horological culture graces the dial of the DB25T, notably in the aesthetic work on materials, the engraving and the light effects, but also and above all through consistently demonstrated miniaturisation technology.

The round case of the DB25 and its elegantly open-worked lugs frame a polished and blued titanium sky adorned with hand-engravings on solid gold and representing the 12 zodiac signs. These symbols, which are an integral part of the aesthetic and artistic world of horology, lend a sense of infinity to the depth of the De Bethune star-studded sky.
The radiance instilled by the silver-toned guilloché decoration radiating from the dial centre contributes to the multiple shimmering light effects on the finely grained rings, and on the open-worked polished yellow gold hands.
The technical nature and the high frequency of the DB2109 mechanism driving the jumping seconds display makes a striking contrast with the almost poetic delicacy with which this large blue hand finely points to every second. De Bethune wished to revive the traditions of the golden age of horology by infusing this movement with the soul and the majesty of the great historical regulator clocks. “Jumping seconds” was a natural choice to impart a noble cadence to the passing of time. The components are pared down to essentials and feature simplicity where required and complexity where necessary.

A deltoid-shaped bridge adorned with the “Côtes De Bethune” motif supports the central seconds hand, while a double lever with four pallets drives the double gold wheel of this “jumping seconds”. The latter performs an impressive mechanical ballet rendered technically feasible by new technologies, but which is bound to thrill the heart – and mind – of any devotee of classical mechanisms.

Further enhancing this intensely private performance visible exclusively on the back of the watch, De Bethune has equipped the DB2109 with its silicon-titanium tourbillon making one rotation every 30 seconds at the optimal frequency of 36,000 vph. This ultra -light tourbillon comprises 63 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams.

Technical details
Model: DB25T Zodiac
Ref. DB25TWS3V3
20-piece limited edition

Functions
Hours, minutes and central jumping seconds
Movement operating indicator at 12 o’clock
Tourbillon with 30-second indication on the back

Movement
DB2109 calibre, mechanical hand-wound movement
Diameter 30 mm
320 parts
Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Côtes De Bethune
Blued titanium bridges and parts
Self-regulating twin barrel
Silicon/white gold balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve
De Bethune silicon/titanium 36,000 vph 30-second tourbillon
Central jumping seconds
Silicon escape-wheel
Jewelling: 50 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 4 days

Case
White gold, drum-shaped
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 10, 6 mm
Attachments: hollowed lugs
Crystal: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown at 3 o’clock – setting in two positions
Back: open

Dial
Guilloche silver-toned dial
Silver-toned hours and minutes rings
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with solid white gold stars, featuring solid gold inserts hand-engraved by artist Michèle Rothen representing the 12 zodiac signs
Hands: yellow gold hours and minutes hand, jumping seconds hand in hand-polished and blued steel

Strap
Navy blue – extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

No comments:

Post a Comment

Popular Posts

Blog Archive