To mark the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser watch family, the Portugieser Grande Complication appears with a number of understated modifications. The dial is more elegant and restrained, and the platinum version has a new contemporary look. This superb example of watchmaking technology with its 20 displays and functions remains a milestone of haute horlogerie.
During the calendar’s most active phase, these are joined by the month, year, decade and century. In 100 years, the century slide, which shows the first two of the four digits that comprise the year, moves up once, by 1.2 millimetres. This will happen next in 2100. The moon phase display, too, is extraordinarily accurate and will be just 1 day out of sync after 122 years. Despite its complex design and numerous functions, the perpetual calendar is operated simply, via the crown.
The incredibly complex minute repeating strike train chimes out the current time in clear acoustic tones: with lower chimes for the hours, a double strike one on each gong for the quarter hours and a strike on the higher pitched gong for the minutes. Each gong is individually made by hand and then carefully tuned for pitch and tonal purity. Development of the minute repeater alone took a total of 50,000 hours.
Model: Portugieser Grande Complication
Ref. IW377601 (Platinum) and Ref. IW377602 (Red Gold)
Limited edition of 250 watches each
Mechanical chronograph movement with perpetual calendar and minute repeater functions
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 h
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Minute repeater for hours, quarters and minutes
Small hacking seconds
Case, dial and strap
Ref. IW377601: case in platinum, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap by Santoni with stitching and folding clasp in platinum
Ref. IW377602: case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni with stitching and folding clasp in 18-carat red gold
Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45 mm
Case height: 16.5 mm
Special back engraving