Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Laurent Ferrier Galet Chocolate - The Special 5th Anniversary Series

For its fifth anniversary, Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Laurent Ferrier pays a delicious tribute to its four exclusive movements: Tourbillon Double Spiral, the “Echappement Naturel”, the Echappement Naturel & Dual Time and the Escapement with Double Direct Impulse on the Balance.

To celebrate this milestone, a special series is infused with a truly delectable flavour. A keen devotee of the cocoa bean and all it implies, Laurent Ferrier reinterprets the dial of each model in chocolate tones. All models of the LAURENT FERRIER collection will be equipped with an intense chocolate brown dial graced with white chocolate-toned hour-markers.  All Laurent Ferrier models in this anniversary series feature a 5N Red Gold case framing a vertical satin-brushed dial bearing painted gold drop-shaped hour-markers.  Laurent Ferrier wished to offer a unified colour on a Red Gold series and to create a sense of consistency and coherence among these creations.

The case inspired by 19th century pocket watches and the exclusive LAURENT FERRIER movement are as pure as ever, while the sapphire crystal case-back reveals an aesthetically harmonious structure and a fascinating glimpse of the refined decorative work.

The exceptional finishing of this movement is crafted in harmony with the purest horological traditions. The Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, the circular graining on the mainplate and the guilloché pattern on the micro-rotor in solid 18-carat gold endow this model with an entirely distinctive radiance. The most delicate finishes, such as the interior angles and the mirror polishing, are done by hand in LAURENT FERRIER Geneva workshops.

Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral Chocolate
TOURBILLON DOUBLE SPIRAL: The manual-winding Tourbillon Double Spiral calibre is an exclusive Laurent Ferrier movement distinguished by its concept two head-to-tail mounted balance-springs. This device serves to compensate for the effects of gravity by maintaining the centre of gravity of the balance aligned with its axis.

This movement with its timeless style is inspired by the great 19th and 20th century chronometry models. It features several nods to the competition watches that used to be testaments to the skills of the greatest watchmaking artisans, including a winding system with a very soft, pleasing design that does without the modern spring for the winding-stem pull-out piece lever.

The horological aesthetic also features a “long-blade” ratchet pawl and a smooth-polished finish. This movement is designed to be both accurate and robust. It has been carefully developed right down to the smallest details in order to find its way through time and successive generations, while testifying to an expertise going back more than 200 years.

This finely hand-crafted model is also graced with a number of finishes, such as the many interior angles and smooth-polished surfaces that can only be performed by the expert hand of passionate and experienced watchmaking artisans.
Technical details
Model: Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral Chocolate
Reference LCF001.R5.CH

Movement
Calibre LF619.01, hand-wound movement
Tourbillon, two head-to-tail mounted balance-springs
Two Geneva-type balance-spring studs 
Swiss lever escapement
Variable-geometry balance with adjustment screws
Peripheral tourbillon carriage driving system
Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 5.57 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours 
188 parts / 23 jewels

Functions
Central hours & minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon carriage pivot
Tourbillon carriage visible through the case-back

Case, dial and strap
Case: 18/750 5N red gold
Diameter: Ø 41 mm
Thickness: of the metal 9.50 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.50 mm
3 parts, case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
Sapphire crystal case-back, view of the tourbillon movement
Domed, spherical sapphire crystals
Water-resistant to 30 metres
Dial: chocolate brown, vertical satin-brushed
Hands: in 18K/750 gold painted in a white chocolate colour, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes, baton-shaped for the seconds
Strap: brown alligator leather with Alcantara lining, hand-sewn
Buckle/clasp: pin buckle of double-folding clasp in 18K/750 5N red gold

Galet Micro-Rotor Chocolate
THE“ECHAPPEMENT NATUREL”: The Galet Micro-Rotor houses a concentrated blend of horological innovations. Its calibre featuring automatic winding by an off-centred micro-rotor stems from an exclusive development: Laurent Ferrier provides its own interpretation of an invention by Abraham-Louis Breguet dating from 1789, the échappement naturel, meaning an escapement with a double direct impulse on the balance.

To gain a better understanding of the system, one should imagine a swing, which one traditionally pushes and then waits for it to return before pushing it again. An échappement naturel would be a system by which two people each push the swing to and fro between them.

For Breguet, the aim was to preserve as much transmissible energy as possible, since an impulse is given to the balance with each vibration. While this idea seemed very promising, Breguet made only a very limited number of watches equipped with this system. The main reason was that this type of escapement involved additional sources of friction, which was detrimental to long-term reliability.

However, with the materials and precision technologies now available, this construction fully lives up to its initial promise, as Laurent Ferrier vividly demonstrates in the Galet Micro-Rotor that benefits from the facilitated winding of the barrel spring.
Technical details
Model: Galet Micro-Rotor Chocolate
Reference LCF004.R5.CH

Movement
FBN Calibre 229.01, automatic winding with pawl-fitted micro-rotor, 72-hour power reserve
Micro-rotor: fixed between the mainplate and the micro-rotor bridge
Silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance
Micro-rotor mounted on a silent-block (anti-vibration pads) shock protection system
Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm
Movement thickness: 4.35 mm
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 35
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)

Case, dial and strap
Case: 18K/750 4N red gold
Case diameter: 40 mm
Case thickness: 11.10 mm
Water resistance: to 30 m
Dial: chocolate brown
Hands: in 18K/750 gold painted in a white chocolate colour, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes, baton-shaped for the seconds
Strap: brown alligator leather with Alcantara lining, hand-sewn
Buckle/clasp: pin buckle of double-folding clasp in 18K/750 5N red gold

Galet Traveller Chocolate
ECHAPPEMENT NATUREL & DUAL TIME: The Galet Traveller houses self-winding Calibre LF 230.01, from the famous line of Micro-Rotor movements with natural escapement. It incorporates the dual time-zone adjustment mechanism as well as the date. This useful complication, that took a full two years to develop, is fully integrated and each part is an integral part of the global architecture of the base calibre.

As with the previous developments, LF Calibre 230.01 features a pawl-fitted micro-rotor unidirectional winding system, backed by a double direct-impulse natural escapement. This innovative horological architecture, complemented by the natural escapement, serves to achieve a one-third increase in the winding force of the micro-rotor and thus to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. Its efficiency is thus far superior to the majority of classic escapements and is above all extremely stable over the long term – an asset that significantly contributes to the exceptionally accurate rate of this chronometer certified by Besançon Observatory.

Technical details
Model: Galet Traveller Chocolate
Reference LCF007.R5.CH

Movement
Self-winding Calibre LF230.01 chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory
Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system
Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance
Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA technology.
Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock.
Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic date correction.
Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 5,80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
288 parts
44 jewel

Case, dial and strap
18K/750 5N red gold case
Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
Thickness: of the material 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.64 mm
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water-resistant to 30 metres
“Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/750 5N red gold
Chocolate brown dial, vertical satin-brushed
Minute track around the dial circumference
Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
Small seconds counter at 6 o’clock
Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock
Hands: in 18K/750 gold painted in a white chocolate colour, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes, baton-shaped for the seconds
Hand-sewn black or chestnut brown alligator leather, Alcantara lining
16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp, in 18K/750 5N red gold or 210 Pd white gold

Galet Micro-Rotor 39MM Chocolate
THE ESCAPEMENT WITH DOUBLE DIRECT IMPULSE ON THE BALANCE: This exclusive escapement with double direct impulse on the balance is inspired by the father of modern horology, Abraham-Louis Breguet. This modern construction, associated with the use of cutting-edge materials, maximises the restitution of energy. The excellent efficiency of this escapement serves to reduce the torque required to wind the mainspring and hence optimises the movement winding.
Technical details
Model: Galet Micro-Rotor 39MM Chocolate
Reference LCF011.R5.CH

Movement
FBN Calibre 229.01, automatic winding with pawl-fitted micro-rotor, 80-hour power reserve
Micro-rotor winding system fixed between the main plate and the micro-rotor bridge
Silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance
A silent block shock protection system for the micro-rotor
Indications: hours, minutes
Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm
Movement thickness: 4.35 mm
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 35
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)

Case, dial and strap
Case: 18K/750 5N red gold
Water resistance: to 30 m
Case diameter: 39 mm
Case thickness: 11.10 mm
Dial: brown chocolate, vertical satin-brushed
Hands: “Assegai-shaped” in 18K/750 gold, white chocolate painted
Strap: brown alligator leather
Buckle/clasp: pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp in 18K/750 white gold or 5N red gold

Galet Square Chocolate
THE“ECHAPPEMENT NATUREL”: The Galet Micro-Rotor houses a concentrated blend of horological innovations. Its calibre featuring automatic winding by an off-centred micro-rotor stems from an exclusive development: Laurent Ferrier provides its own interpretation of an invention by Abraham-Louis Breguet dating from 1789, the échappement naturel, meaning an escapement with a double direct impulse on the balance.

To gain a better understanding of the system, one should imagine a swing, which one traditionally pushes and then waits for it to return before pushing it again. An échappement naturel would be a system by which two people each push the swing to and fro between them.

For Breguet, the aim was to preserve as much transmissible energy as possible, since an impulse is given to the balance with each vibration. While this idea seemed very promising, Breguet made only a very limited number of watches equipped with this system. The main reason was that this type of escapement involved additional sources of friction, which was detrimental to long-term reliability.

However, with the materials and precision technologies now available, this construction fully lives up to its initial promise, as Laurent Ferrier vividly demonstrates in the Galet Micro-Rotor that benefits from the facilitated winding of the barrel spring.
Technical details
Model: Galet Square Chocolate
Reference LCF013.R5.CH

Movement
FBN Calibre 229.01, automatic winding with pawl-fitted micro-rotor, 72-hour power reserve
Micro-rotor: fixed between the mainplate and the micro-rotor bridge
Silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance
Micro-rotor mounted on a silent-block (anti-vibration pads) shock protection system
Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm
Movement thickness: 4.35 mm
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 35
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)

Case, dial and strap
Case: 18K/750 4N red gold
Water resistance: to 30 m
Case diameter: 41 x 41 mm
Case thickness: 11.10 mm
Dial: chocolate brown
Hands: in 18K/750 gold painted in a white chocolate colour, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes, baton-shaped for the seconds
Strap: brown alligator leather with Alcantara lining, hand-sewn
Buckle/clasp: pin buckle of double-folding clasp in 18K/750 5N red gold

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