In 2008, Switzerland based master watchmaker Andreas Strehler presented an emotional, sensual mechanical watch movement – the Papillon. His aim was to create a living organism that would hold the observer spellbound. In contrast to many firms, Andreas Strehler regards his movements not as cold, technical machines but as living organisms whose elegance invite one to sense the time and the mechanics that generate it. He deals with the aesthetics of time without the necessary domination of ease of reading the dial. Sometimes he even runs counter to it. For example, it is possible to regard the cosmos of a Papillon as a mere mechanical marvel, the only function of which is to fascinate the beholder by the sight of the functioning movement.
To achieve this, Andreas Strehler chose a totally new configuration for the construction of the movement, abandoning the traditional difference between the face and the back of the watch. By this apparent break with tradition, Andreas Strehler introduced new ideas without dispensing with the traditional craftsmen‘s methods of decoration which underline optically the quality of his work. The bevelling in the internal edges was carried to the limit in the Papillon. Hardly any other watchmaker had dared to bevell such sharp edges by hand.
For example, he manages without the classical main plate of a central plate with its various cut-outs. It was important for him to create an aesthetic movement. The elegance of the central plate is enhanced by Côtes de Genève and appears as a mainspring bridge, rather than the central element. And in order to stress the optical impression of an organically formed movement, Andreas Strehler opted for a central bridge in the shape of a butterfly.
Although the Papillon movement appears very simple, it manifests a number of nice details which will please the hearts of everyone interested in mechanics. The two barrels provide the Papillon with a guaranteed power reserve of 80 hours, although the energy stored in both barrels would enable a much longer power reserve. They are connected in parallel and thus guarantee smooth winding and the even action of the two mainsprings.
Besides the generous power reserve, the use of two barrels brings further advantages, for example the almost total elimination of bearing pressure on the central wheel – thus enabling optimal timekeeping precision. A further special detail is the use of genuine conical gear wheels for the winding wheel and the winding pinion. As a result, these show no wear in the transmission of power and are therefore extremely long-lasting. In addition, their special gear tooth system enables the watch to be wound up smoothly and lightly.
Case: platinum or 18 K red gold (colour: 5N)
Dial: massive silver dial ring
Hands: blue steel
Strap : hand-sewn alligator leather strap, buckle made from platinum or 18 K red gold, matching the case
Movement: hand winding: 162 parts, frequency 3Hz / 21'600 A/h, 32.0 x 30.0 mm, height 5.9 mm, 27 jewels, double main spring barrel, micro differential gear train for the power reserve, two sapphire gear wheels, massive gold Papillon bridge, edges bevelled and polished by hand, fully decorated movement.
Case: palladium white gold 88g
Dimension: width 41 mm, overall length 47.20 mm,height 10 mm
Dial: 2 toothed sapphire wheels, for hours and minutes
Strap: black alligator with tang buckle in white gold
Movement: mechanical, manual winding; mysterious hours and minutes displayed by the gears themselves; Power reserve: 78 hours, double mainspring; Size: tonneau shape: 32.00 x 30.00 mm, thickness 6.9 mm; Frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000 A/h; Jewels: 19
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