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Wednesday, September 30, 2015

RGM Watch Company – in House 801 Collection (New Models: 801-EE and PS-801-EE)

US based mechanical watch atelier RGM Watch Company has announced two new additions to their in-house 801 collection: 801-EE and PS-801-EE. These latest models combine two time-honored crafts: Grand Feu Enamel and Guilloché, or Engine-Turning.

Following on the heels of their first two enamel-dial models, RGM has created an enamel skeleton dial version. Grand Feu enamel requires the repeated baking of each layer of powdered glass at extremely high temperatures to ensure a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel. The Roman or Arabic numerals are baked into the surface, creating the vivid, unmistakable appearance distinctive of a real glass enamel dial.
The enamel skeleton dial reveals the hand cut Guilloché mainplate. Guilloché, or Engine-Turning, is a centuries old craft that today involves the use of antique hand-cranked machines to cut or engrave delicate geometric patterns. RGM has 6 vintage and antique machines that are used to decorate dials, or in this case, the movement mainplate.
The pattern seen on the mainplate of these models is called Moiré. This complex geometric pattern is achieved when each line is slightly offset from the previous cut line, thus creating a classically pleasing effect that can captivate the wearer of the timepiece.
Exposed under this unique skeleton dial and hand cut Guilloché mainplate is RGM’s original in house American movement: Caliber 801.
Inspired by America’s great watchmaking history, the 801 has classically shaped bridges, hand polished or blued steel components, and is entire hand finished and decorated. The movement can also be customized at the client’s request. The watch is housed in a polished 316L stainless steel or 18 karat solid gold case.

Model: 801-EE
Movement
RGM Caliber 801, Manual winding, American-made
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or Gold Plated
Engine-turned
Circular Damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels and hacking second available
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
316L polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 5ATM
Optional 18k gold case available
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 10mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel

Dial
Grand Feu (“Great Fire”) white enamel skeleton
Roman numerals
Blued-steel hands

Strap
Alligator

Price
US$10,400

Model: PS-801-EE
Movement
RGM Caliber 801, Manual winding, American-made
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or Gold Plated
Engine-turned
Circular Damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels and hacking second available
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
316L polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 5ATM
Optional 18k gold case available
Diameter: 43.3mm
Height: 10mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel

Dial
Grand Feu (“Great Fire”) white enamel skeleton
Roman numerals
Blued-steel hands

Strap
Alligator

Price
US$11,900

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time

Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin unveils two new models of the Traditionnelle World Time in either 18K white or 18K 5N pink gold sublimated by a gold map in the center of their dial. Equipped with the in house developed Calibre 2460 WT featuring patented mechanism, this traveller’s timepiece indicates 37 world’s time zones, including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UCT) by a half - or quarter hour.


The Traditionnelle World Time by Vacheron Constantin highlight a complication inextricably bound to the history of the Geneva-based manufacturer: world time. The latter is also interwoven with the theme of travel, since Jean-Marc Vacheron and his successors have constantly circled the globe delivering their exceptional timepieces. A pioneer in the development and production of innovative watches, the Manufacture has displayed the same approach in being resolutely open to the world at large. Created in 1755 in Geneva and able to look back over 260 years of uninterrupted activity, Vacheron Constantin soon began exploring the four corners of the world. It established a presence in the United States in 1832 and in China in 1845 – well before the International Meridian Conference held in Washington in 1884 which divided the world into 24 time zones, taking the Greenwich meridian as the longitude 0 point of reference. This new approach became indispensable in keeping step with the development of international travel and of railways.

In keeping with the same pioneering spirit, and driven by a wish to demonstrate that the multiple time-zone watch could be further perfected, the Maison introduced its first timepieces endowed with an international time mechanism in 1932. This movement was the work of a brilliant Geneva watchmaker, Louis Cottier, who had imagined and developed a mechanical movement indicating the 24 time zones from 1 to 24 by means of a disc rotating around the central dial and the outer bezel bearing the names of the world’s major cities. This first Vacheron Constantin world time “Cottier system” watch enabled simultaneous read-off of the time in 31 cities around the world. It marked the start of a rich and longstanding relationship with the world time complication. In 1936, the Maison presented two new versions of its world time model with a 31-city dial and a 30-city dial. In 1937 and 1938, the Geneva-based Manufacture unveiled six table clocks with a mobile dial featuring 67 locations. From the 1940s onwards, Vacheron Constantin attributed the reference number 4414 to a world time model with a 41-city dial and a day-night division of the mobile 24-hour disc. During the 1940s and 1950s, many famous customers were captivated by this useful and ingenious mechanism, and contributed to spreading the fame of this new complication.

In 1957, Vacheron Constantin wrote a new chapter in its history of world time watches by introducing the first world time wristwatch, reference 6213, ordered by an Egyptian dignitary.

Eager to make a major new contribution to the history of this complication, the Vacheron Constantin master-watchmakers and engineers have launched a mechanical movement capable of indicating not only the full time zones, but also the partial ones, so as to reflect the exact temporal reality in the 37 time zones. A number of countries have indeed adopted a half-hour or quarter-hour difference from UTC, and the Calibre 2460 WT by Vacheron Constantin takes account of these specific characteristics. By way of example, it provides the correct time indication for Caracas, since Venezuela decided in 2007 to switch from a full time zone to a half time zone (GMT – 4:30).
The indication of the 37 time zones as proposed by the Maison in its Traditionnelle World Time is as complete as one could wish for. The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with a day-night shading and the engraved and inked 24-hour indications (18:30 to 6:30 hours indications highlighted with an anthracite-colored background); a metal dial with painted cities names and a “Lambert projector” type gold map unveiling sun-brushed continents as well as sand-blasted seas; and a metal external ring with painted minute-track and applied gold hour-markers. Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, mechanical self-winding Calibre 2460 WT drives displays of the hours, minutes, center seconds and world time. It enables simultaneous read-off of the time in all regions of the world, along with the day-night indication provided above the central world map crafted in gold. All indications are adjusted via the crown, thus considerably simplifying the use of this highly technical watch. In light of these exclusive developments, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 WT – bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva – own a patent featuring the indication of all the world’s 37 zone increments, the day-night indication and the setting of all functions by the crown.

Despite its complex construction principles, the mechanical world time movement is extremely user friendly. The wearer chooses the reference time and places it opposite the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time in the reference location can then be read off either by the hour hand, or by the 24-hour disc, while the time in the other 36 time zones is simultaneously readable. The cities shown in black represent the full time zones, while the cities in red indicate half-hour or quarter-hour zones.
Incorporating all the signature characteristics of the collection – a slender bezel, a knurled motif on the back of the timepiece, a sapphire crystal caseback closed with screws, and dauphine-shaped hands – the Traditionnelle World Time comes with a 42.5 mm diameter 18K white gold or 18K 5Npink gold case that is fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a gold folding clasp.

Technical details
Traditionnelle World Time
References: 86060/000G-8982 & 86060/000R-8985
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Movement
Calibre 2460 WT
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
36.6 mm (11’’’¼) diameter, 7.55 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
255 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Center seconds
World time indication (37 cities)
Day-night indication

Case
18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold
42.5 mm diameter, 11.62 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Superposition of 3 dials:
- Gold map with sun-brushed continents & sand-blasted seas. Metal disc with cities names (in black for plain hours and in red for half-hours and quarters)
- Sapphire disc with day-night indication and engraved & inked 24-hour indications (18:30 to 6:30 hours indications highlighted with an anthracite-colored background)
- Metal external ring with painted minute-track and 18K gold hour-markers

Strap
Black / brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 Minute Repeater Platinum

A couple of years back, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a true masterpiece of virtuosity in which the complexity of the striking mechanism was matched by the additional challenge of creating the thinnest hand-wound calibre and the thinnest hand-wound minute repeater watch on the market, at respectively 3.9 and 8.1 mm thick. Initially introduced in 18K 5N pink gold, this timepiece is now available with platinum case – framing a silvered opaline or slate-colored opaline dial – bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.
In an act that was to spark its longstanding love affair with striking watches, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin created its first minute repeater mechanism for a pocket watch, before combining striking mechanisms with other major horological complications throughout the subsequent decades. In doing so, it repeatedly created exceptional timepieces that were some of the most complex of their era.

Watches that have gone down in history, such as the watch made for King Fouad of Egypt in 1929, or the one created for his son, King Farouk, in 1935. In 1941, Vacheron Constantin launched its first wristwatch equipped with a single complication in the shape of a minute repeater housed in an ultra-thin movement: Calibre 4261. The quest for extreme slenderness continued through subsequent years, and in 1992, the Manufacture once again pushed back the boundaries of feasibility by presenting Calibre1755, a minute repeater movement just 3.28 mm thick. In 2013, Vacheron Constantin released a new movement paying homage to this emotionally charged complication: Calibre 1731, thus named in tribute to the birth year of the Maison founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron.

Calibre 1731 is barely thicker – due to an impressive 65-hour power reserve – than its predecessor from 1992, measuring a mere 3.90 mm compared with the original 3.28 mm. It indeed remains the thinnest on the market to this day, having brilliantly overcome the difficulty of assembling and adjusting such supremely slimmed-down components. Four years were needed to solve the highly complex conundrum of creating a new minute repeater movement mingling slenderness, pure sound, aesthetic beauty, reliability and sturdiness. Nor are the technical feats confined to its ultra-thin side of nature, since Calibre 1731 is equipped with an extremely ingenious device: a flying strike governor developed by Vacheron Constantin in 2007 for the 2755 movement, another member of this highly exclusive family of minute repeater calibres. Unlike classic lever-type governors, this one is entirely silent. Its role is to steady the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs. Without such a governor (also known as a regulator), this musical sequence would play at the speed of the striking barrel-spring and would thus produce a series of indiscernible notes. The device developed by Vacheron Constantin comprises two inertia-blocks or weights designed to act as a brake on the rotating shaft of the governor and thus evening out the energy supplied by the barrel spring. It achieves this by making use of opposing centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, centrifugal force pushes one end of the inertia-blocks outwards, while the other end presses on the shaft to slow it down and stabilise the rotation speed in order to ensure a steady cadence. Perfectly finished right down to the smallest details, the governor bears Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem, even though this motif cannot be seen from the front of the calibre.

Particular care was devoted to the acoustics of the Patrimony ultra-thin calibre 1731, since the sound of a striking watch is its very reason for being. Various technical choices were made to ensure a crystal clear and perfectly tuneful tone. The gongs are not only connected to the case middle so as to amplify the sound, but also for the first time stacked rather than placed side by side. The platinum case is shaped so as to form a unified whole with the movement, within a clever composition incorporating such subtle parameters as the airflow between the mechanism and the case, designed to achieve optimal propagation of the notes. Nor does the quest for perfection end there, since the case itself has been built without joints so that the elements can interact metal against metal and thereby enhance the amplitude of the sound, while the flying governor ensures a regular rate of the hammer blows on the gongs.

While each master-watchmaker instils his own music into the minute repeater that he will take several months to assemble and adjust, the sound of the movement will be submitted to the keen ear of the virtuoso striking-mechanism specialists of the Manufacture, and will undergo any adjustments needed to achieve perfect harmony between the low-pitched and high-pitched notes. And it is precisely at 4:49 that the tests are performed, since that is the time when the cadence is most clearly audible due to the almost identical intervals between the hours (four strikes), quarters (three strikes) and minutes (four strikes).The true living soul of a minute repeater watch, the individual chime of each watch is recorded and carefully stored before the timepiece leaves the Manufacture, thus constituting a “soundprint” duly registered in the archives of Vacheron Constantin. The latter guarantees not only the lifelong repair of all its watches, both historical and contemporary, but also the ability to restore within its workshops the unique sound of each model equipped with a minute repeater.
Testifying to an ancestral expertise that sets an authentic Haute Horlogerie creation apart from the rest, the components of Calibre 1731 are patiently hand-finished one by one, even though some will remain hidden. Whereas the mainplate is circular-grained, the hammers are specular polished to as to alternately catch the light of appeared clothed in a deep black cloak so as to eliminate any trace of the finely worked surface. Meanwhile, the bridges are adorned with a delicate Côtes de Genève pattern creating a refined wave effect. While the artisans of the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin are well accustomed to the various finishing techniques, there is one in particular that requires a highly demanding 18-month training period: bevelling or chamfering, meaning the specific work on the reentrant angles, such as can notably be found on the seven bridges of Calibre 1731.
The design of Patrimony ultra-thin calibre 1731 is inspired by an ultra-thin model created in 1955 to mark the Vacheron Constantin bicentenary and then revived in 2004 to give life to the Patrimony reference 81180. Since then, its extreme slenderness, its pebble shape, its curved bezel, its cambered dial and crystal, its beaded minute circle, along with its baton-shaped hands sweeping over alternating triangle and baton-shaped hour markers, have established it as a timeless classic. While the Patrimony ultra-thin calibre 1731 has remained true to its iconic design codes, its platinum case has been the object of subtle and complex workmanship so as to form a unified whole with Calibre 1731 and to set a double record: the thinnest hand-wound minute repeater movement (at 3.9 mm), driving the thinnest hand-wound watch (8.1 mm).

The curve of the case middle has thus been accentuated so as to further trim down the silhouette, while the sapphire crystal caseback has been opened as broadly as possible to reveal the hammers, along with a rare glimpse of the gongs. On the dial side, Vacheron Constantin has opted for an extremely elegant small seconds offset at 8 o’clock, a useful and playful way of making the Patrimony ultra-thin calibre 1731 immediately recognisable.

Technical details
Patrimony ultra-thin calibre 1731
References: 30110/000P-9999 & 30110/000P-B089
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Movement
Calibre 1731
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.8 mm (14’’’1/4) diameter, 3.9 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
265 components
36 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 8 o’clock
Minute repeater

Case
Platinum 950
41 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Not water-resistant

Dial
Slate-colored / silvered opaline, convex external zone
18K white gold hour-markers and "pearl" minute-track

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: Platinum 950 buckle, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a magnifying glass and the resonator of sound "La Musique du Temps" enhancing the sound and the harmony notes of Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Model (33 mm)

After having launched a 38 mm-diameter version of Traditionnelle Model in 2013, Vacheron Constantin unveils a sparkling and daintily feminine 33 mm-diameter version entirely paved with several hundred round-cut diamonds. Beneath the sparkling elegance of the snow-set dial beats hand-wound Calibre 1400 bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

In a spectacular display of working with light, the gem-setter has opted to alternate between two different gem-setting techniques to play on various sparkling and shining effects according to the surfaces to be lit up. The bezel and sides of the 18-carat white gold case are paved with 196 grain-set diamonds, while 394 diamonds shimmer intensely on the dial thanks to the magic of the snow setting.
The subtly random reflections of this clever gem-setting contribute to a glowing visual effect achieved by juxtaposing precious stones of varying sizes so as to entirely cover the underlying gold surface. Perfectly moulding the rounded curves of the case, the 608 precious stones completely carpet the watch, while a 0.06-carat round-cut diamond appears like a punctuation mark on the fluted winding crown. A night blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap creates a striking contrast that further enhances the luminous beauty of the diamonds. It is adorned with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds.
The sapphire crystal caseback reveals hand-wound Calibre 1400. Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin in keeping with the finest Haute Horlogerie traditions, it meets the demands laid down by the famous Hallmark of Geneva that applies to the finished watch. This movement beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and ensures a 40-hour power reserve. Its finishing as well as its design testify to superlative craftsmanship: not only do the main smooth surfaces of the movement bear a traditional Côtes de Genève motif, but their sharp edges are also finely chamfered before being hand-polished, as are the flat-head screws.

Technical details
Traditionnelle Small Model
Reference 81591/000G-9913
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Calibre 1400
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
20.65 mm (9’’’) diameter, 2.6 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
98 components
20 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes

Case
Diamond-set 18K white gold (197 round-cut diamonds)
33 mm diameter, 7.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Diamond-set 18K white gold (394 round-cut diamonds)
18K white gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, stitched-tip, square scales

Buckle
18K white gold buckle
Diamond-set half Maltese cross-shaped (17 round-cut diamonds)

Total diamond-setting 
608 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 3.3 carats

Vacheron Constantin Métiers D’art L’éloge De La Nature: Swan

Expressing of its tribute to naturalism, Vacheron Constantin presents two new exceptional works of art illustrating the majesty of the swan while enriching the series titled L’Éloge de la Nature.

Extending the naturalist bestiary introduced in 2014 with a first trio of animal-themed watches, two new one-of-a-kind creations frame an exquisite portrayal imbued with romantic lyricism. Unveiled at Watches& Wonders haute horlogerie exhibition in Hong Kong, this pair of timepieces (a ladies’ model with a 39 mm-diameter case and a 42 mm men’s model) reveals the privileged ties Vacheron Constantin enjoys with the decorative arts.

The Manufacture has undeniably contributed to re-enhancing the value of skills that appeared to be doomed to extinction. For the past two decades, the Maison has been devoting great care to perpetuating these highly significant crafts that have shaped its cultural exception. Through its role as art patron, Vacheron Constantin has developed a complex network matched by rare expertise in the art of associating various ornamental styles. L’Éloge de la Nature flamboyantly celebrates the mingling of decorative techniques. Watchmakers and artisans have struck exactly the right balance between impeccable technical sophistication, refined finishing and outstanding creative effort in transforming a classic timepiece into an authentic work of art.
The swan glides majestically over the crystalline waters of Lake Geneva, tiny droplets from the Jet d’eau sliding across its immaculate white plumage and head held high atop a supple neck radiating a powerful aura of nobility. Feathers unfurled and wings spread, ready to embrace its beloved, this luminous water bird embodies the universal symbol of eternal love and its almost angelic profile evokes a sense of purity and delicacy. Vacheron Constantin reproduces this exquisite gracefulness on two distinctively graphic dials highlighting each beautiful detail of the swan: a white gold palmiped set with round-cut diamonds and spreading its wings on a finely guilloché, enamelled stretch of water. A glowing tribute to the shores of Lake Geneva and the city where the Manufacture was born.

Engraver, guillocheur, enameller and gem-setter: four artisans have in turn devoted their endeavours to this dial. Achieving such a spectacular result called for a certain vision as well as intense imagination. A flurry of furthers, a daintily curved neck, a shining beak, a gleaming eye, shimmering wavelets, a pristine blue sky: each detail is so accurate that one can almost feel the soft breeze and hear the gentle lapping of the water. Two months of work have been lavished on crafting the dials.
The composition of this poetic creation begins with delicate hand engraving on an 18-carat white gold plate. Volumes, recessed and raised areas, texture and light effects: each millimetre is the object of a deliberate creative approach. To attain such a superlative degree of refinement, the engraver has developed his own tools, all the while imagining distinctive and appropriate techniques designed to guarantee the eagerly anticipated result. After drawing the outlines of the bird, the artisan fashions the feathers one by one. The sharp graving tool incises the material, forming a herringbone pattern on the men’s model and a more curved motif on the ladies’ version. The engraver’s dexterity gives each feather a distinctive satin-brushed and polished finish.

The swan spreads its wings above a stretch of water depicting a gentle ripple motif. Above it, a gentle ‘visual breeze’ ruffles the dial through the work of the guillocheur. The artisan has traced narrow geometrical grooves on the already-decorated dial, meaning he had to carefully adjust his rose engine lathe so as not to damage the tiny gold filaments. Even though certain guilloché areas are extremely narrow, his graving tool has always found its way into microscopic nooks and crannies without straying out of the appointed zone. These are extremely accurate and skilled moves of the kind only an experienced hand can perform.

The guilloché motifs are coated with a translucent Grand Feu enamel, sky blue for the ladies’ version and night blue for the men’s model. The “Limoges white” enamelling is applied to the upper part of the engraved feathers so as to accentuate their luminosity.

76 baguette-cut diamonds adorning the bezel and lugs frame the naturalist scene. The gently rounded curves of the swan’s body are paved with snowset round-cut diamonds. The base of the swan’s wings is diamond-paved, with each feather delineated by a fine gold line. This fascinating light-based craftsmanship endows the bird with an inimitable aura of natural majesty.

The mechanical movement Caliber 2460 G4 provides a spacious playground by entirely freeing up the dial centre in order to provide scope for the artistic crafts. In keeping with its rich tradition of original and varied displays, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the watchmaking art by offering an ingenious hand-free visualisation of time. This is achieved through four apertures respectively showing the hours, minutes, day and date. The indications – the first two of the dragging or trailing type and the last two of the jumping variety – appear through these windows regularly placed around the rim of the dial and leaving plenty of space for a central motif.

Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 v.p.h.), the mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical shape inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese Cross emblem. Its 237 parts are graced with exceptional finishes. The movement is protected by an 18-carat white gold case with a transparent back providing a chance to admire the fine workmanship inside. A Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by an 18-carat white gold folding clasp shaped like a half Maltese Cross sets the perfect finishing touch.

These one-of-a-kind creations bear the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, the highest reference in the realm of Haute Horlogerie, duly certifying the quality, craftsmanship and reliability of these exceptional timepieces made in Geneva. Their singularity is also emphasised by the inscription “Pièce unique” engraved on the caseback.

Métiers d’Art L’éloge de la nature – SWAN (Gent’s)
Reference: 86677/000G-B116
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Movement
Caliber 2460 G4
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (11’’’¼) diameter, 6.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
237 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, day of the week (in English) and date in apertures

Case
Diamond-set 18K white gold (76 baguette-cut diamonds)
42 mm diameter, 12.8 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3bar (approx.30meters)

Dial
18K white gold
Dark blue Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand guillochage
Diamond-set 18K white gold swan (432 round-cut diamonds), snow setting on the body of the swan, hand-engraved feathers, Limoges white enamelling on translucent Grand Feu enamelling

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass

Total diamond-setting
76 baguette-cut and 432 round-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 6.1 carats

Unique piece
« Pièce Unique », « Les Cabinotiers » and blazon « AC » engraved on the caseback

Métiers d’Art L’éloge de la nature – SWAN (Ladies’)
Reference: 86675/000G-B115
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Movement
Caliber 2460 G4
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (11’’’¼) diameter, 6.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
237 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, day of the week (in English) and date in apertures

Case
Diamond-set 18K white gold (76 baguette-cut diamonds)
39 mm diameter, 12.6 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3bar (approx.30 meters)

Dial
18K white gold
Light blue Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and handguillochage
Diamond-set 18K white gold swan (322 round-cut diamonds), snow setting on the body of the swan, hand-engraved feathers, Limoges white enamelling on translucent Grand Feu enamelling

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, large square scales, stitched-tip
Clasp: 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass

Total diamond-setting
76 baguette-cut and 322 round-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 4.9 carats

Unique piece
« Pièce Unique », « Les Cabinotiers » and blazon « AC » engraved on the caseback

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Breitling for Bentley GT3 Chronograph

A tribute to the Continental GT3 and Bentley’s motorsport victories, the new Bentley GT3 chronograph fiercely flaunts its sporting nature in this 500-piece limited series with a black titanium case, carbon fibre dial, original twin-counter system and chronometer-certified self-winding movement.

The competitive spirit has always defined the Bentley universe. Five-time winner of the 24 Hours of Le Mans in the 1920s to 1930s, the British car manufacturer got right back to its winning ways by sweeping the first two places on the legendary track in 2003.
As main sponsor of Team Bentley, Breitling toasted this victory by unveiling a chronograph named “Bentley Le Mans” and marking the start of the magnificent Breitling for Bentley adventure. In 2014, Bentley made its big comeback to motorsports by competing in the GT3 category with a high-performance new speed machine, the Continental GT3. This sports engineering marvel has enabled the firm to chalk up several major wins, including two victories in Silverstone (United Kingdom) and on the Circuit Paul Ricard at Le Castellet (France), while the 2015 season has already seen it score several podium places in Europe, the United States and Asia.
To celebrate this fresh momentum, Breitling for Bentley is launching a new limited edition Bentley GT3 timepiece – a gem of style and performance worthy of the super-sleek racing car after which it is named. The black titanium case features a blend of sturdiness and lightness, two indispensable qualities in the heat of the action.
The carbon fibre dial exudes an ultra-sporty look inspired by racing cars. Clear readings of the finest feats are provided by the chronograph with its innovative display system featuring a 60-minute counter via a central hand (for times of less than an hour) and a combined hour/minute counter at 9 o’clock (for times of an hour or more).
At the heart of this peerless instrument beats a self-winding movement chronometer certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), the only precision and reliability benchmark based on an international standard.
The exclusive black rubber strap bears the inscription “Continental GT3” – the embodiment of the will to conquer driven by the Bentley spirit.

Technical details
Movement
Breitling Calibre 27B, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, self-winding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 38 jewels

Functions
1/4th of a second chronograph, central 60-minute counter, combined 60-minute and 12-hour counter. Calendar

Case
Black titanium (500-piece limited series)
Water-resistant to 100m
Screw-lock crown
Ratcheted rotating bezel with variable tachymeter (circular slide rule)
Cambered sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Diameter: 49 mm

Dial
Black Carbon

Strap
Rubber

Monday, September 28, 2015

Halda Watch Co Nürburgring Race Pilot Limited Edition

Swedish watch maker Halda Watch Co unveils a limited edition timepiece in association with the Nürburgring racetrack. Available in a limited edition of only 20 units – the Nürburgring Race Pilot by Halda is based on the Halda Race Pilot model which recently won the prestigious award Watch of the Year 2014.
It is delivered with uniquely numbered modules, engraved with the Nürburgring logo and a special made strap in natural rubber. This watch will also have specific functions connected to the different Nürburgring circuits.
Based on the Red Dot awarded Halda Concept, the Race Pilot Nürburgring Limited Edition is developed in close cooperation with professional race drivers and engineers.
Its digital module features functions such as information about 150 race tracks, G-force measurement, Countdown according to FIA F1 regulations and an advanced chronograph measuring speed.
The mechanical module is equipped with the Gun Metal dial and an automatic movement is produced by one of the best suppliers in the world – ZENITH.

Saturday, September 26, 2015

SEVENFRIDAY V-SERIES

Based in Zurich, Switzerland, SEVENFRIDAY creates wrist watches inspired by the world of industrial machinery. After successfully launching M and P series, the brand is launching its new collection, V Series, inspired from engines.

Engineering progress constantly strives for higher performance, so with SEVENFRIDAY registering a few more digits up the meter scale. This idea is reflected in the design of the Hours indication as an industrial gauge, creating a new way to read the time. The new timepiece comes in a brand new case shape, new visual complication, fast strap changer (FSC-chip) and an embedded NFC chip that allows authentication of official SEVENFRIDAY watches by consumers and retailers.
The V-Series (and from now all new watch models) are equipped with a NFC chip. This chip allows you to authenticate the watch with the SEVENFRIDAY mobile application. You can scan the watch with a mobile phone (NFC enabled) and check the authenticity of the watch; the app will show an immediate positive or negative result.

Technical details
Movement
Open balance wheel movement Miyota 82S7,  40H power reserve

Case
Size: H 44.3mm X W 49.7mm
Thickness: Case: 11,3mm, Incl. case back: 12,85mm
Stainless steel case with sunray brushed top bezel.
Specially hardened and anti-reflective treated domed mineral glass
3 ATM water resistant
Fast Strap Changer (FSC) equipped. (Pushers at 9H side)

Dial
4 levels dial construction Galvanic hollowed out plates with alternate finishing: Deep stamped Silver «azurage»/ Vertical brushed rhodium / Vertical brushed Silver white / Opalin silver white Circular brushed Gun metal dial ring or Deep grey cast-iron pattern / Vertical brushed «concrete color» / Vertical brushed Rhodium / Opalin black Circular brushed 4N dial ring
12 applied galvanic parts.
120° angle hour reading with «additioner» principle, turning central disc «0, 4, 8» to be added to fix «0, 1, 2, 3, 4» scale.
Customized with special Day & Night display (white & dark blue or 4N & black) and white or 4N small second indication ( «additioner» principle).

Strap
Black soft mat or Brown semi-mat calf skin leather strap (123/85mm) - tone to tone stitching

Misc
Chip for authenticity verification (with NFC technology)

Retail price
Price: 1,055 CHF (RRP ex. taxes)

Friday, September 25, 2015

Hublot Classic Fusion Chrono Aero "65th Anniversary Swiss-China" Limited Edition

On September 14, 2015, the 65th anniversary ceremony of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Switzerland was held in Embassy of Switzerland in Beijing. As the exclusive official watch partner, Hublot has launched the "65th Anniversary Swiss-China" limited edition to celebrate this historic moment. With remarkable achievements in the global watchmaking business, Hublot has been actively involved in the Sino-Swiss Free Trade Agreement (FTA) since July 2014, and also releases FTA limited edition (Classic Fusion Sino-Swiss FTA Limited Edition timepiece), paying tribute to the steady development of the two countries.
On September 14, 1950, Switzerland established diplomatic relations with the New China. For the 65 years since then, the bilateral relations have been developing steadily in cultural, economic, energy, tourism and other aspects. Swiss Ambassador Mr. Jean-Jacques de Dardel, along with business elites from all sectors, famous academic figures and government officials, exchanged and discussed the important issues.
Classic Fusion Chrono Aero "65th Anniversary Swiss-China" Limited Watch was born in this background. The 45mm titanium case inherits the crafted skeleton dial of the Classic Fusion series, the visible movement operation showcases the sophisticated beauty of mechanical rhythm. On the 3 and 9 o'clock positions are respectively designed with a chronograph, while China and Switzerland flags are ingeniously combined and shown on the small dial AT the 3 o'clock position. The back of the watch has the 65th anniversary of the establishment of Sino-Swiss diplomatic relations theme flag - a red "65" contains the five-stars and the cross, which is the integration of the elements from the China and Swiss national flags. Also, the English and Chinese text “1950-2015 SWITZERLAND AND CHINA” are engraved to commemorate this important moment in history. There is a limited 65 watches all over the world.

Technical details
Model: Classic Fusion Chrono Aero "65th Anniversary Swiss-China" Limited Edition Watch
Reference 525.NX.0137.LR.SIS15
Limited edition of65 numbered pieces

Case
“Classic Fusion” – Diameter 45 mm
Polished and satin-finished titanium
Bezel: Satin-finished and polished titanium with 6 H-shaped titanium and polished screws
Crown: Polished titanium with Hublot logo
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Push-buttons: Polished titanium
Case back: Satin-finished titanium engraved « SPECIAL EDITION, 65 PIECES », Sapphire with interior anti-reflective treatment , "SIS15" logo printed

Dial
Sapphire, polished rhodium-plated appliques
SIS logo printed at 3H

Hands
Polished faceted rhodium-plated hour, minutes and counter hands
Red chronograph second hand

Movement
HUB1155 Self-winding Skeleton Chronograph movement
Date: Skeleton disc with window at 6 o’clock
No of Components: 207 (60 Jewels)
Water Resistance: 5 ATM or approximately 50 metres
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap
Black alligator sewn onto black rubber with red stitching
Clasp: Stainless steel deployant buckle

KERBEDANZ Quintum Minute Repeater

The two KERBEDANZ minute repeaters, the mother of all horological complications, have just been acquired by a collector. These two pieces also have animations. They represent a distillate of extreme horological arts.

La Fabrique du Temps and Concepto, two movement manufacturers among the most sought-after by the various haute horlogerie brands, worked on the extraordinary KRB-05, the KERBEDANZ caliber inhabiting the two Quintums. It's a 29-jewel movement, manually wound, with Côtes de Genève decoration. It boasts a power reserve of one hundred hours, and beats at 21,600 vph using an escapement wheel and pallets made of silicon.

These two unique timepieces were shown to a few select people at Baselworld. They have just found a buyer. They will nevertheless remain a part of the history of the Neuchâtel watch brand KERBEDANZ as an exclusive witness to the company's claimed and mastered skills, the harmonious marriage between two histories going back centuries: the history of Switzerland's watchmaking regions with their micromechanical expertise, and that of a veritable dynasty that has practiced the quintessential métiers d'arts connected to the ancient tradition of jewelry, namely engraving, enameling and miniature sculpting for generation upon generation.
The 45-millimeter satin-polished case and the double-layered dials of the two Quintums are in massive 18-karat rose gold. The case is immediately identifiable from the original positioning of the winding crown in the northeast, that is, at 1:30 o'clock, which is in itself a symbol. A bas relief with a miniature sculpture on enamel was exclusively conceived, made, hand-sculpted and decorated by KERBEDANZ.

It is in harmony with the symbolism depicted on this model, which is drawn from ancient Chinese culture and represents the Five Elements as seen from Earth: Water is in the north, represented by a turtle entwined with a serpent in black; Metal is in the west and is represented by the Celestial Tiger in white; Fire is in the south, represented by the Chinese phoenix or Vermillion Bird, in red; Wood is in the east and is represented by a dragon in blue-green or turquoise; finally, Earth is in the center and is represented by the unicorn or Qi-Lin, a kind of chimera in yellow. The Five Elements are omnipresent in the composition of the sky, the constellations, and in Chinese astrology.

And while the hammers strike the gongs and replace the visual hourly indications by acoustic signals –this is the mechanical idea behind the minute repeater –an animation is suddenly set in motion: One of the paws of the Qi-Lin begins to  move, followed by the wings of the Vermillion Bird, while the turtle entwined with the serpent starts to move back and forth.  The ballet performed by the two Quintums is above all playful, but it does draw its fantastical skills from the alchemy of the micromechanical sciences taken to an extreme level.

Technical details
Movement
Caliber KRB-05, tourbillon, minute repeater with animations, hand-wound mechanical movement, designed, manufactured and decorated by KERBEDANZ, La Fabrique du Temps and Concepto
29 jewels, 21,600 vph, power reserve 100 hours
Silicon escapement wheel and pallets, with côtes de Genève decoration

Case and strap
5N pink gold, satin polished, diameter of 45 millimeters
Designed and manufactured by KERBEDANZ
Antireflective sapphire crystal on dial and case back
Crown in the north east (at 1:30 o'clock)
Alligator mississippiensis leather strap, double folding clasp with KERBEDANZ personalization in 18-karat rose gold

Dial
Full gold
Bas relief with miniatures on enamel
Double layer dial
Exclusively conceived, made, hand-sculpted and decorated by KERBEDANZ
Animations on the dial with the movement of one of the Qi-Lin's paws, the wing beat of the Vermillion Bird and by the oscillations of the turtle entwined with the serpent

Concord Saratoga Lady Diamond Petal

Inspired by the glamour and beauty associated with horse racing, the Concord Saratoga Lady is reimagined this year with a shimmering white mother-of -pearl dial detailed with a flower petal design set with 31 VS quality diamonds. The 31mm stainless steel case is adorned with an additional 32 VS quality diamonds and the case -back is finely embossed with the collection’s signature emblem of two racing horses.
The Calibre quartz ETA 8 ¾  956.412 movement is equipped with hour, minute and second functions. Protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and finished with a delicate stainless steel bracelet, this exceptional timepiece is water resistant to 30 meters.
Technical details
Model: Saratoga Lady Diamond Petal, 31 mm
Reference: SKU0320305

Movement
Calibre quartz ETA 8 ¾ ’” 956.4 12

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Case
Fine brushed stainless steel case, diamond set bezel
31 mm diameter
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Stainless steel crown
Stainless steel case back with horses embossed/Saratoga emblem
Water resistant to 3 0 meters / 3 bars
32 diamonds ( Ø 1.50)Setting in between decors, VS quality
Total carat weight: 0.41 6

Dial
White mother-of -pearl with diamond encrusted flower pattern
31 diamonds, total carat weight: 0.0596
Rhodium Roman numbers at 6 and 12 o’clock

Bracelet
Fine brushed/polished stainless steel bracelet
Stainless steel spring deployment buckle with pushers

Market delivery
September 2015

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Victorinox Swiss Army I.N.O.X. Paracord

The I.N.O.X. Wristwatch by Victorinox Swiss Army has already cleared around 130 tests for ruggedness and reliability under extreme conditions. Now this watch comes in a new version: I.N.O.X. Paracord.

Long the preserve of adventurers, paracord is making its watchmaking debut on the I.N.O.X Paracord. Boasting all the strengths of the I.N.O.X. watch, the I.N.O.X. Paracord is a genuine object of survival that is both practical and functional.

Its paracord strap is original, innovative and unique, woven with highly resistant multi-strand nylon cord. The exclusive braiding, developed in collaboration with Naimakka, complements the watch perfectly. The ideal companion for every adventure and expedition, the paracord strap can be unwoven and used for as many purposes as the wearer can possibly come up with. The seven internal nylon strands can also be extracted from the paracord sheath to make a variety of thinner designs or fasteners.
The I.N.O.X. Paracord watch was designed for daily lives full of adventure. The paracord strap has the potential to be an ultra-versatile survival tool. In emergency situations, the threads can be unwoven and used separately. Ideal not only for replacing that shoelace, it will also come in ultra handy for the unexpected situations often faced by adventurers and outdoor sports enthusiasts. It can be used to improvise a fishing line, a strap to tighten your camping equipment or a towing belt for your car or boat.

Originally used for parachute suspension lines, paracord complies with the extremely high standards of the US military. Its breaking strength is 250 kg. Inspired by the harnesses and buckles of parachutes, the entirely hand-made strap features a nylon retaining strap enhanced with steel loops. A sliding system makes it easier to fasten and adjust.
The exclusive I.N.O.X. Paracord timepiece comes in two Naimakka versions: a green camouflage or a black braided strap with a black dial. Each model comes with a removable transparent bumper marked with the points of the compass. This highly useful accessory and navigation instrument ensures the watch is scratch-resistant, and gives it a distinctive look.

While losing none of its style, the I.N.O.X. Paracord has a wild and rugged edge. It is a multifunctional and versatile survival watch with an assured, elegant design. The I.N.O.X. Paracord is a genuine ally of survival built to defy the twists and turns of life. Its versatility means it can adapt to the demands of both urban life and the great outdoors.

The Naimakka brand has been making braided paracord straps since 2012. It was while attempting to recycle paracord that Patrik Shields, the founder of Naimakka, discovered its properties and multifunctional nature. Paracord is an extremely resistant nylon cord consisting of seven interwoven internal strands with as many uses as the inventive mind will allow. It is so versatile that it was even used by NASA to repair a space telescope during a mission. Naimakka only uses paracord that is certified to military standards. While paracord is already familiar to survivalists, Naimakka straps have now become the ultimate accessory of urban trendsetters.

Technical details
Case
Reinforced 43 mm case in stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with triple anti-reflection treatment
Water-resistant to 200 meters (20 ATM / 660 feet)
Removable transparent bumper in synthetic material with cardinal points
Screw-in case back in stainless steel

Dial
Stamped hour-markers, and hours and minutes hands covered with luminescent material
Military time on the flange
Date window at 4.30

Movement
Swiss-made Ronda 715 quartz movement

Strap
Black or green dial, paracord strap

Availability
Fall 2015

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

BOVET 19Thirty Collection

Led by Pascal Raffy, Swiss luxury watch brand BOVET 1822 presents an entirely new watch collection - The 19Thirty - this year.

During the 1930s watchmaking industry witnessed one of the most significant turning points in its history: watches overwhelmingly migrated from pockets to wrists. Although from today’s perspective, this seems like a natural evolution for watchmaking, it constituted a genuine revolution at the time. With their new ergonomics, wristwatches provided more freedom and new uses which, in turn, gave rise to new functions. This marked the beginning of specialized watches specifically designed to meet new, more demanding needs. Watchmakers thus found themselves faced with a multitude of new constraints. The movements they manufactured now needed to be more precise and their dimensions reduced. Linked to this development, steel, which was enjoying a boom, became a firm favorite for fashioning cases thanks to the many advantages afforded by its mechanical properties and resistance.

No other watchmaker symbolizes this transitional decade better than BOVET 1822, whose solid reputation for wrist-worn chronographs came to equal its 19thcentury renown for pocket watches. A genuine symbol of this evolution, the exclusive design of the iconic Fleurier case now makes it possible to wear a pocket watch on the wrist.

An entire collection has thus been created in tribute to this major milestone in watchmaking history. To define the latter, Pascal Raffy was inspired by the aesthetic codes of a 1930s BOVET timepiece from his private collection: the “easel” chronometer, which was one of the last pocket watches to be manufactured by BOVET before wristwatches became widespread.
The 19Thirty Collection borrows the numbers and hands from the “easel” chronometer and combines them with pared-down aesthetics to showcase the chronometric performance and haute horlogerie finishes of each timepiece.
Bovet “easel” chronometer, 1930's
The collection is characterized by two distinct cases: the Fleurier case, whose crown and bow at 12 o’clock recall the origins of BOVET, and the more traditional DIMIER case, with its four horns and a crown positioned at 3 o’clock in an additional nod this important transitional decade.
The eighteen references that already comprise this collection are driven by a dedicated caliber that has been entirely developed and manufactured by watchmakers and artisans at DIMIER 1738. Drawing its energy from a single barrel, this hand-wound mechanical movement features a seven-day power reserve and a frequency of 21,600 vph.

As usual, the architecture of this new caliber is focused on harmony and symmetry to create unique elegance. In addition to the two cases available in steel, collectors can also select a black, blue or ivory dial with Arabic, Roman or Chinese numerals, historically present on the dials manufactured by BOVET.

Technical details
BOVET 19Thirty Case Type: Fleurier
Case
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness (With Glasses): 9.05mm
Thickness (Without Glasses): 7.30mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 30m

Movement
Caliber 15BM04Hand-wound
Diameter: 15 3/4 ‘’’
Frequency: 21’600 vph
Power reserve: 7 days

Dials
Ivory polished lacquered, black circular brushed or blue circular brushed with Arabic, Roman or Chinese numerals

Functions
Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve indicator

Bracelet
Full skin alligator
Buckle: Stainless Steel ardillon

BOVET 19Thirty Case Type: Dimier

Case
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness (With Glasses): 9.55mm
Thickness (Without Glasses): 7.75mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 30m

Movement
Caliber 15BM04 Hand-wound
Diameter: 15 3/4 ‘’’
Frequency: 21’600 vph
Power reserve: 7 days

Dials
Ivory polished lacquered, black circular brushed or blue circular brushed with Arabic, Roman or Chinese numerals

Functions
Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve indicator

Bracelet
Full skin alligator
Buckle: Stainless Steel ardillon

Sunday, September 20, 2015

MB&F Melchior Only Watch 2015 Unique Piece in Association with L’Epée 1839

Swiss horological lab MB & F unveils a unique piece of Melchior (a robot-cum-table clock) to Only Watch, a biennial charity auction of unique timepieces under the High Patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco to raise money for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD).

Melchior is a high-end table clock crafted by L'Epée 1839– Switzerland's only specialised high-end clock manufacture – featuring jumping hours, sweeping minutes, double retrograde seconds, and an impressive40-day power reserve drawing from five mainspring barrels. Hours and minutes are displayed via discs on Melchior’s chest, while a dial on his abdomen indicates the state of wind of that long power reserve. Melchior's eyes blink through a combination of fixed vents and revolving discs, endowing the robot with a playful touch of human-like personality.

The unique piece Melchior Only Watch is the 100th and final piece in the Melchior series. Clothed in palladium-plated brass and steel with bright red shoulder pads, Melchior is sure to put smiles on children's faces and melt the hearts of adults.
MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser developed the Melchior concept with designer Xin Wang in a quest to revisit his childhood hankering for a robot friend. Melchior comprises no fewer than 480 components, each one machined and finished at L’Epée’s Swiss atelier, bar the 50 movement jewels. An impressive 334 components make up the movement, while another 146 pieces comprise Melchior’s bodywork and armour.

Such was the originality of MB&F’s robot concept that L’Epée needed to develop several new components: Machining, finishing and assembling a piece like the bulging glass dome forming Melchior’s skull was a first for L’Epée, as was crafting a stainless steel winding/time-setting key to resemble a Gatling gun.

The winding/time-setting key clips into Melchior’s left elbow joint socket. It is held by a small magnet strong enough to hold the key, but not so powerful as to affect the function of the movement. The key boasts a double-depth square socket that neatly fits over both of the square pegs on the back of Melchior. One of the pegs is for winding the movement, the other for time setting.
Working from MB&F’s design, L’Epée diligently developed the various bodywork and armour components, carefully choosing materials according to the properties required. Where precision was critical – Melchior’s kinetic parts and his precision rocket launcher, for instance – plated brass was selected. His armour on the other hand is crafted mainly in stainless steel, providing optimal resistance to withstand any enemy attacks.
And for the finishing touch, L’Epée have applied a range of eye-catching finishes to Melchior’s bodywork – including anglage, mirror polishing, satin finishing, circular satin finishing, sand-blasting and polishing.
To create Melchior’s highly visible movement, L’Epée developed a completely new skeletonised main plate in palladium-plated brass, which sandwiches the movement mechanism, also in palladium-plated brass.

For clear reading of the hour, L’Epée developed a ‘slow’ jumping hour. This in-house complication sees the hour disc remain static for 55 minutes, then start to turn five minutes before the new hour so that the change of hour is smooth and subtle. The movement regulator features an Incabloc shock protection system, which minimises the risk of damage when the clock is being transported. This sort of shock protection is generally only seen in wristwatches. In fact, Melchior’s exclusive table clock movement features the same type of mechanisms as a wristwatch – gear train, spring barrel (here, five in series), balance wheel, escape wheel, and anchor – but their dimensions are far larger.

The movement also features superlative fine finishing – côtes de Genève, anglage, polishing, sandblasting, circular and vertical satin finishing – that is seen on a wristwatch. However, finely finishing a clock movement is far more challenging than finishing a wristwatch because of the greater surface areas of the larger components.

Technical Specifications
Melchior Only Watch is a unique piece for Only Watch 2015 with bright red anodised aluminium shoulder pads contrasting against the monochromatic body. The back is engraved "Melchior Only Watch Piece Unique".

Display
‘Slow’ jumping hours and sweeping minutes: Twin discs forming part of Melchior’s breast plate, one disc displaying hours, the other disc minutes, both featuring MB&F's signature numerals
Retrograde seconds: Flyback discs mark 20-second intervals behind a steel mask
Power reserve indicator: Dial on abdomen providing intuitive view of remaining energy

Movement
L’Epée in-house designed and manufactured movement
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph / 2.5Hz
Barrels: 5 in series
Power reserve: 40 days
Movement components: 334
Jewels: 50
Incabloc shock protection system
Mechanism in palladium-plated brass
Manual-winding: double-depth square socket key sets time and winds movement
Movement finishing: includes côtes de Genève, anglage, polishing, sandblasting, circular and vertical satin finishing

Melchior’s body and armour
Dimensions: 30.3cm x 21.7cm (depending on position of the arms) x 11.2cm
Weight: 6.3kg
Body/armour components: 146

Head
Dome: polished glass screwed via polished and bevelled palladium-plated brass bezel
Retrograde seconds display in stainless steel
Movement mainplate in palladium-plated brass

Torso
Breastplate (forming hour and minute hands) in palladium-plated brass
Abdomen (power reserve indicator frame) in stainless steel
Ribcage/spine (formed by skeletonised main plate) in palladium-plated brass

Legs
Pelvis, thighs, shins and feet in stainless steel
Hips (long central bars joining pelvis) in stainless steel

Shoulders and arms
Shoulders in red anodised aluminium
Upper arms and lower arm sockets in stainless steel; magnet in left arm socket
Right forearm: screwed-in rocket with chrome-plated brass body and stainless steel warhead
Left forearm: Gatling gun/detachable stainless steel winding key with palladium-plated brass
Body and armour finishing includes anglage, mirror polishing, satin finishing, circular satin finishing, sandblasting, polishing.

Ralph Lauren New Slim Classique Timepieces for the Holidays

The Ralph Lauren Slim Classique collection presents timepieces that epitomize sophistication and elegance, with exquisite guilloché decoration, masterful gem settings and graceful round silhouettes.

For the 2015 holiday season, Ralph Lauren introduces four new 32mm Slim Classique timepieces showcasing richly colored dials.
Translucent blue or purple lacquer on the dial enables one to admire the central “barleycorn” guilloche décor. This aesthetic signature offers a striking contrast between classical design codes and vibrant contemporary colours. The bezel of each model is adorned with either this same guilloché décor or a row of 60 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Crafted in 18K rose gold, these new timepieces are accentuated by gold Breguet style hour and minute hands, which are set among gold Roman numerals. The perfectly round and superbly thin cases display polished case backs—ideal for personalized engraving—and host Swiss quartz calibers for carefree maintenance.
These Ralph Lauren Slim Classique timepieces are offered with elegant black alligator straps, fitted with precious rose gold pin buckles.Celebrating the beauty of exceptional materials and the sleek proportions of a bygone era, the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique timepiece collection reflects Ralph Lauren’s passion for impeccable quality and exquisite design.
Retail price
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 32MM in rose gold with a blue dial, £5,300
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 32MM in rose gold with a blue dial and single row of diamonds, £7,900
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 32MM in rose gold with a purple dial, £5,300
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 32MM in rose gold with a purple dial and single row of diamonds, £7,900

Audemars Piguet - The New Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Audemars Piguet has an uninterrupted history of creating exceptional perpetual calendar watches that goes back to the company’s origins over 140 years ago. While all time measurement devices can be viewed as an extension and expression of astronomy, the perpetual calendar mechanism is the one complication that embodies the ancient relationship between astronomical observation and the evolution of calendars and timepieces.

Perpetual calendars are part of the DNA of Audemars Piguet, and in 2015 the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar returns to center stage with an entirely new design, size and calibre. Continuing the shift in watch case size that began in 2012, the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is now 41 mm, yet still extremely thin.
The enlarged size has resulted in a “Grande Tapisserie” dial design that greatly increases the overall aesthetics, balance and legibility of the perpetual calendar indications. The layout of the dial includes all of the traditional indications of a perpetual calendar watch: day, date, month, leap year and in addition, a highly detailed astronomical moon. On top of this, the 52 weeks of the year are indicated by an outer chapter ring with corresponding central hand, adding another layer of time measurement.
The new self-winding calibre 5134 is based on its predecessor, calibre 2120, however it has been enlarged in accordance with the updated 41 mm case size. The highly finished 4.31 mm thick movement is fully visible through the glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback.
The thinner the movement, the more complex it is to adjust and assemble its parts as it requires extraordinary skills to work on components which are sometimes as thin as a human hair. However all finishing operations are performed by hand in accordance with the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie:
  • The suspended barrel, which helps achieving extra thinness, is adorned with circular côtes de Genève, and the wheels are circular satin-brushed.
  • The main-plate is circular-grained while all bridges are bevelled and adorned with côtes de Genève, the flanks are satin-brushed and all bevels are polished.
  • The 22-carat gold monobloc oscillating weight is engraved with “Audemars Piguet”, and its external segment is adorned with a “Tapisserie” motif echoing the iconic pattern of the Royal Oak dials.

 
A powerful combination of modern aesthetics and prestigious traditional complication, the new 2015 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is the latest chapter of this incredible journey which began 140 years ago.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Week Indication and Astronomical Moon, 41 mm

Movement
Calibre 5134
Total thickness: 4.31 mm
Total diameter: 29.00 mm
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
Number of jewels: 38
Minimal guaranteed power reserve: 40 hours
Bidirectional selfwinding
Balance with variable inertia blocks
Flat balance-spring
Mobile stud-holder
Number of parts: 374.

Specificities
Extra-thin movement
Suspended barrel
The oscillating weight is guided by a peripheral ring rolling on four ruby runners, which reduces friction and wear to the minimum possible
Moon phase indicator, laser micro-structured, laid on aventurine
Moon phase astronomical indicator requiring correction every 125 years and 317 days
Manual finishing on components
Oscillating weight can be custom decorated upon customer’s request.

Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes

Versions
Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.01
Case
Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, silver-toned inner bezel

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.01
Case
18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, silver-toned inner bezel

Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp


Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.02
Case
18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, blue inner bezel

Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.02
Case
Stainless steel case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hourmarkers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, blue inner bezel

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp