Sunday, September 20, 2015

Audemars Piguet - The New Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Audemars Piguet has an uninterrupted history of creating exceptional perpetual calendar watches that goes back to the company’s origins over 140 years ago. While all time measurement devices can be viewed as an extension and expression of astronomy, the perpetual calendar mechanism is the one complication that embodies the ancient relationship between astronomical observation and the evolution of calendars and timepieces.

Perpetual calendars are part of the DNA of Audemars Piguet, and in 2015 the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar returns to center stage with an entirely new design, size and calibre. Continuing the shift in watch case size that began in 2012, the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is now 41 mm, yet still extremely thin.
The enlarged size has resulted in a “Grande Tapisserie” dial design that greatly increases the overall aesthetics, balance and legibility of the perpetual calendar indications. The layout of the dial includes all of the traditional indications of a perpetual calendar watch: day, date, month, leap year and in addition, a highly detailed astronomical moon. On top of this, the 52 weeks of the year are indicated by an outer chapter ring with corresponding central hand, adding another layer of time measurement.
The new self-winding calibre 5134 is based on its predecessor, calibre 2120, however it has been enlarged in accordance with the updated 41 mm case size. The highly finished 4.31 mm thick movement is fully visible through the glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback.
The thinner the movement, the more complex it is to adjust and assemble its parts as it requires extraordinary skills to work on components which are sometimes as thin as a human hair. However all finishing operations are performed by hand in accordance with the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie:
  • The suspended barrel, which helps achieving extra thinness, is adorned with circular côtes de Genève, and the wheels are circular satin-brushed.
  • The main-plate is circular-grained while all bridges are bevelled and adorned with côtes de Genève, the flanks are satin-brushed and all bevels are polished.
  • The 22-carat gold monobloc oscillating weight is engraved with “Audemars Piguet”, and its external segment is adorned with a “Tapisserie” motif echoing the iconic pattern of the Royal Oak dials.

 
A powerful combination of modern aesthetics and prestigious traditional complication, the new 2015 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is the latest chapter of this incredible journey which began 140 years ago.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Week Indication and Astronomical Moon, 41 mm

Movement
Calibre 5134
Total thickness: 4.31 mm
Total diameter: 29.00 mm
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
Number of jewels: 38
Minimal guaranteed power reserve: 40 hours
Bidirectional selfwinding
Balance with variable inertia blocks
Flat balance-spring
Mobile stud-holder
Number of parts: 374.

Specificities
Extra-thin movement
Suspended barrel
The oscillating weight is guided by a peripheral ring rolling on four ruby runners, which reduces friction and wear to the minimum possible
Moon phase indicator, laser micro-structured, laid on aventurine
Moon phase astronomical indicator requiring correction every 125 years and 317 days
Manual finishing on components
Oscillating weight can be custom decorated upon customer’s request.

Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes

Versions
Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.01
Case
Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, silver-toned inner bezel

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.01
Case
18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, silver-toned inner bezel

Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp


Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.02
Case
18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, blue inner bezel

Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.02
Case
Stainless steel case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hourmarkers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, blue inner bezel

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp


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