Tuesday, December 1, 2015

ochs und junior moon phase blue patina

Switzerland based watch brand ochs und junior presents moon phase blue patina, a new pure metal execution of Ludwig Oechslin’s moon phase watch. Its blue, blue-black and gray hues are not the result of added color. They come from a controlled chemical process for oxidizing brass, which ochs und junior developed specifically for its watch parts.

Patination is a technique for dial contrast used by Ludwig Oechslin since the first ochs und junior prototypes in 2006 (the story of patination at ochs und junior). Each moon phase (blue patina) watch is hand-patinated, hand-assembled, and hand-regulated by ochs und junior watchmaker Sandra Flück at the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne (the ochs und junior workshop). ochs und junior plans to manufacture about 5 moon phase blue patina watches in 2016 out of a total of about 50 moon phase watches.
The 39mm case, crown and buckle are machined in Switzerland out of solid blocks of sterling silver 925, a soft metal selected by Oechslin for the way it patinates through wear and records marks of life from its owner (the use of silver at ochs und junior). Visible machining marks proudly showcase the precision of the workmanship, the qualities of the raw material and the way each part was manufactured. For brilliant reflection of light from every viewing angle, the full moon, sun at 12 o’clock, and date dot are executed in hammered platinum PT 950, while "the dark side of the moon" is in hammered, dark patinated sterling silver 925. The hour hand, minute hand and excentric second dot are machined out of solid blocks of platinum PT950 to match the astronomical and date indications.
Ludwig Oechslin’s unique moon phase function is executed as a 5 part epicyclic gear system that will take 3,478.27 years before its calculation will be off by 1 day (full technical information and a picture of the 5 parts). The analogue date display (30+1 holes around the moon phase function) is more readable than a digital display from the same distance, and unlike large digital displays, the date dot is not a distraction when checking the time (interactive watch and how to read the functions).
ochs und junior watches are exclusively sold directly from the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne, Switzerland. Clients can browse the watches in Lucerne and have their order shipped worldwide via FedEx, or they can configure their personal ochs und junior with an interactive customizer tool. Online or in person, cofounder and CEO Beat Weinmann provides guidance as to the customer's perfect ochs und junior. moon phase blue patina costs CHF 12'100 including 8% Swiss VAT  (watch details in the online store).

Technical details
Model: moon phase blue patina
39mm sterling silver 925 case
Dial, moon disk and date disk in hand-patinated brass
Sun at 12 o’clock in hammered platinum PT950
Full moon in hammered platinum PT950
New moon in hammered and patinated sterling silver 925
Date dot in hammered platinum PT950
Indices milled out and patinated
Hour hand, minute hand, excentric second dot in brushed platinum PT950
Waterproof sturgeon leather strap handmade in Switzerland

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