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Thursday, February 26, 2015

Breitling Colt Chronograph Automatic

Breitling interprets the technical, understated and efficient styling of the Colt collection in a new chronograph powered by a self-winding movement.

The Colt was first launched in the 1980s and initially intended for the armed forces, before appealing to a broad audience because of its sturdiness, its functionality and readability. It has subsequently established itself as the most accessible Breitling model, offering a blend of performance and unusual design.
Available to date in four versions with well-defined characters, including a quartz chronograph and a ladies’ watch, the Colt collection now welcomes a new self-winding chronograph equipped with a movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Born for action, feats and thrills, this instrument brilliantly reinterprets all the key assets of the Colt collection, with counters placed at 12, 9 and 6 o’clock.
The broad unidirectional rotating bezel, with satin-brushed finishes and engraved hour-markers, is distinguished by its four “rider tabs“ – a signature Breitling feature – ensuring both excellent handling and optimal protection of the sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides. The 44 mm-diameter polished steel case is water-resistant to 200 m (660 ft) and features a large screw-locked crown with protective reinforcements.

The black, blue or silver dials are enlivened by a fine circular raised motif, and their readability is reinforced by oversized hands and hour-markers enhanced by a luminescent coating.

Technical details
Movement
Breitling Caliber 13, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, self-winding
High-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 25 jewels

Functions
1/4th of a second chronograph
30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Calendar

Case
Steel
Water-resistant to 200 m (660 ft)
Screw-locked crown
Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel
Sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Diameter: 44 mm

Dials
Volcano black, Mariner blue, Stratus silver

Straps/bracelet
Leather, rubber Ocean Racer, rubber Diver Pro/Professional

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

BOVET Amadeo® Fleurier Braveheart® Tourbillon

Year after year, DIMIER 1738, Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale, illustrates the extent of its artisans’ talent by developing and manufacturing timepieces that constantly define new criteria of excellence in decorative arts, horological engineering and chronometry. It all started with owner Pascal Raffy’s dream, a spontaneous vision that constantly leads him to design new timepieces. In parallel, a compendium of calibers and complications produced by the Manufacture DIMIER since 2006 and the extraordinary historical heritage of BOVET 1822 defined the future of the Maison and its collections.

From that point on, a clear set of specifications was drawn up and a privileged position reserved for innovation and the ideas that emerge during the various stages of development. The caliber destined for the new icon, the Amadeo® Fleurier Braveheart® Tourbillon with 22 days of power reserve, had to redefine the boundaries of chronometry while offering optimal ease of use. This required a long power reserve both to provide a singularly constant force to the regulating organ and offer unparalleled conditions of use.

In addition to incorporating the sum of 193 years of experience, the Braveheart® was designed around one of the main characteristics of BOVET’s modern time-pieces: the Amadeo® convertible case system. This ingenious system, which has equipped all Fleurier collections since 2010, gives two aspects to two sides of the timepiece. Two different, yet harmonious expressions of time, combined with the numerous technical challenges involved in integrating two time displays into an elegant and controlled volume.

In 2014, BOVET unveiled its  first watchmaking specialty caliber not regulated by a tourbillon – a  first in the history of the Manufacturer. Patent number 0169-DI-CH relating to this specialty refers to its double co-axial seconds display mechanism. It went without saying that this patented double co axial seconds display had to be included in this new caliber, regardless of the difficulty incorporating it into a tourbillon axis. This desire to display the seconds on both sides of the tourbillon carriage constitutes a world first, which naturally led the Manufacture’s technicians to develop the first flying tourbillon of the Manufacture DIMIER history.

The unprecedented tourbillon regulating the Braveheart® immediately captivates the onlooker’s attention and encapsulates the timepiece’s most striking innovations. Its design, architecture and the quality of its ¬ finishes prompt as many questions as they do expressions of awe. To achieve this outcome, all the established rules and conventions that normally surround the development of a new caliber were thrown into question. By starting with a clean slate and a mind free from any theoretical constraints or predispositions, Pascal Raffy together with the technicians and the watchmakers of DIMIER’s technical department were able to secure this esthetic, technical and chronometric achievement. It is widely known that in the traditional approach to development, esthetics and chronometry occupy opposing positions and force a compromise: improvements to one are often made to the detriment of the other. The innovations developed by BOVET do not merely concern technical prowess and the functions of its timepieces; they also focus on the processes leading up to them.

It is thanks to this comprehensive method that the esthetics and technical innovation of the Braveheart® tourbillon jointly establish a new definition of watchmaking excellence. Lightness and transparency have always been essential criteria for BOVET 1822 when developing and manufacturing movements regulated by a tourbillon. The tourbillon carriages produced by BOVET are also the subject of a specific patent, since none of the going-train wheels extend above the carriage, as is usually the case. The use of “three-quarter” plates and bridges, adopted by BOVET since 2012, further accentuates these concepts of transparency and lightness.

To develop the Braveheart®, Pascal Raffy asked the Manufacture DIMIER’s technical department to push back even further the boundaries imposed by this type of regulating organ while still improving the chronometry of the timepiece as a whole. The technicians and watchmakers in charge of this development thus proposed the flying tourbillon as a solution. A traditional tourbillon moves between two bridges which support the pivots situated at the far ends of its axis, whereas a flying tourbillon pivots on a ball bearing ¬ fixed to the lower extremity of its axis, generally located in the plate. Simply adopting the latter solution would have prevented the transparency of the “pivoted” tourbillons already manufactured by BOVET from being achieved; in addition, the weight of the tourbillon carriage represents a sizeable constraint for the ball bearing due to the leverage force established by the height of the carriage’s axis.
To counteract these issues, the Manufacture DIMIER technicians came up with an innovative idea: to support the entire carriage in the middle of its axis. As well as halving the leverage force generated by the total height of the axis, this solution enabled the carriage’s weight to be spread over each side of its anchorage point. To achieve this, the escapement was positioned on the lower part of the axis, while the balance wheel and balance-spring occupied the upper section of the axis. This patented mechanism results in unequalled chronometry for a flying tourbillon, and creates an impression of a tourbillon levitating in the extra space provided by the three-quarter plates.

The chronometric improvements obtained by the innovative architecture of the tourbillon carriage are compounded by those originating from a resolutely new balance wheel/balance-spring combination. It is well known that in order to provide optimal adjusting properties, a balance must be as light as possible in its center and the weight determining its inertia must be positioned on its far periphery.

A revolutionary, patented felly provided an innovative and effective solution to this thorny issue. First of all, the technical department ruled out the use of a balance wheel in favor of a balance felly made up of three arms, each one bearing a weight to obtain optimal inertia. These weights have an ogive-shaped profile to improve the aerodynamics of the balance.

In the middle of each of these weights is an inertia-block, which allows the equilibrium and dynamic setting of the balance wheel to be adjusted. At this stage of development, the significant mass of the weights at the end of all three arms posed a problem relating to the rigidity of the balance felly. The technicians solved this by giving it a particular, more rigid profile without further compromising the weight.

A balance wheel such as this deserved to be coupled with a hair-spring that enhances its chronometric performance. During a balance wheel’s vibration, a   at balance-spring does not expand concentrically with respect to its axis and therefore creates intermittent balance   aws. The terminal “Breguet” or “Philips” style curves only partially offset this problem. This is why the technicians and watchmakers from DIMIER’s technical department chose to develop and produce a cylindrical hair-spring whose expansion is completely concentric to its center of gravity. The beating heart and guardian of precision in a mechanical timepiece, the hair-spring is also the component that requires the most rigorous knowledge and expertise of chemistry, physics and mechanics. As it has manufactured its own balance springs since 2006, DIMIER 1738, Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale, is one of the very few manufactures capable of creating this component. The metal alloy used to manufacture the springs is as complex as the conditions imposed by its production. The various stages of drawing and rolling that give it its rectangular cross section, the winding, the production of the terminal curve, and the counting are all operations carried out at DIMIER resulting in springs whose properties guarantee optimal isochronism. The balance-springs experience acquired by the craftsmen at the Manufacture DIMIER has enabled them to develop a spring with unparalleled performance capabilities. While the chronometric results obtained using a cylindrical spring are remarkable, the manufacture of these balance-springs proves extremely complex. A solution similar to this was already used in the 18th century, particularly for marine chronometry. However, the knowledge of alloys, mechanics and chemistry at the time did not allow for results comparable to those achieved by modern timepieces. Nowadays, the production of these balance-springs requires such expertise that their use remains entirely anecdotal, despite their well-documented performance. The verticality of this balance-spring, meanwhile, led the technical department to design a three-armed tourbillon bridge. Its production requires many hours of work, as well as perfectly mastered technical expertise.

Faithful to the principles of BOVET, this tourbillon carriage and balance wheel/balance-spring constitute a new milestone in the search for absolute isochronism. The entire tourbillon carriage is the subject of three patents, which bear testimony to the innovative spirit of Pascal Raffy while honoring the artisanal production methods that have underpinned BOVET’s success since 1822.

Like all the timepieces in the Grandes Complications collection, the functions and indications of the Braveheart® are intended to be useful and suited to modern lifestyles. The convertibility of the Amadeo® case already constitutes a real complication in itself. Directly interacting with the movement’s complications, it proves that the timepieces developed by BOVET are designed as whole objects rather than as assembled movements, dials and cases. In addition to changing into a table clock or pocket watch without the use of a single tool, the Amadeo® case of the Braveheart® also allows it to be worn as a reversible wristwatch.
As the tourbillon was invented in the days of the pocket watch to compensate for the effects of gravity when the regulating organ was in a vertical position, here it finds unprecedented modern legitimacy. Its reversibility must also have meaning; this is why, following the example of the other timepieces in the Grandes Complications collection, the Braveheart® displays the hours, minutes and seconds on both sides of its movement, harmoniously dividing the rest of its indications between two separate faces.

The first of these two faces seems to possess a single hand, even though it presents three indications.  The hours hand, slightly off-centered on the upper part of the movement, is the only hand to cross the surface of the main dial. A triangular index traces the 160° of the minutes sector, and moves back every hour to recommence counting. A second 120°sector acts as the seconds indicator. Here again, there are no hands, but the gently angled and polished ends of the three arms of the tourbillon-carriage bridge alternate every 20 seconds, totaling one minute for every revolution of the tourbillon.

When the timepiece is turned over, another expression of time is revealed. The hours and minutes are displayed traditionally by two hands on an off-centered dial at 12 o’clock. From this perspective, the tourbillon is the center of attention once again. Due to its innovative structure, the tourbillon presents a second, completely unprecedented face. We see the escapement as it has never been seen before: distinctly separated from the balance wheel and balance-spring, yet still perfectly connected to it.

More surprisingly still, the seconds are also displayed on this side of the movement, on the axis of the tourbillon carriage. To achieve this feat, the Manufacture DIMIER technicians and watchmakers applied the seconds carriage patent that was unveiled last year with the Virtuoso II watchmaking specialty caliber. The principle of this patent involves displaying a seconds hand on either side of the movement on the same axis, and reversing the rotation of one of these hands so that it turns clockwise.

BOVET already demonstrated great innovation when it designed and produced this seconds carriage for its Virtuoso II caliber; it needed to exhibit even greater ingenuity to apply this patent to a   flying tourbillon carriage supported in its center. In addition to its features and the absolute symmetry of its indicator positions on either side of the movement, the reversed seconds add an extra touch of magic to the fascinating sight of the revolving tourbillon.

The visual effect of the whole recalls a kaleidoscope: the balance wheel, balance-spring and escapement turn in one direction, while the reversed seconds wheel and hand move on the same axis in the opposite direction. At the center of the timepiece, the power reserve hand skims over the movement, tracing a wide area. To ensure enhanced lightness, legibility and elegance its scale is metallized beneath the crystal. Driven by a desire for unequalled chronometry, Pascal Raffy included a colossal power reserve in the specifications of the Braveheart®, as the force supplied to a regulating organ is more constant over long periods of time. A true specialist in long power reserves, all of the movements manufactured by BOVET prior to the Braveheart® offered power reserves of five to seven days. The hand of the Braveheart® promises no fewer than 22 days of power reserve. The secret of this phenomenal increase in energy lies, above all, in the strict calculations of the timepiece’s energy efficiency. The aim was to reduce the movement’s energy consumption as much as possible in order to add a limited extra supply of energy which would, in turn, increase its autonomy. The two barrels that store this energy each harbor a 104 cm-long spring, and take up half of the movement’s surface area.

Solving the puzzle of the long power reserve immediately created a new problem for the DIMIER’s technical department: winding. The number of turns of a crown required to wind a movement is logically proportional to the length of its power reserve, which becomes unreasonable for 22 days of autonomy.

The technicians, however, were not prepared to let this new challenge disparage their ingenuity and designed a spherical differential gear on the stem of the winding system that enables the gear ratio to be doubled and the number of crown rotations necessary to fully wind the movement halved – all in an extremely reduced space. This spherical differential gear is the subject of the ¬ fifth patent specific to this exceptional caliber.

The talent of the DIMIER’s artisans was once again put to the test for another extraordinary feat that involved cutting the double conical teeth of the satellite micro-pinions of this gear which, depending on the versions offered, could be visible through one of the dials.

The technical expertise of the Braveheart® sets new standards of ingenuity and chronometry. Yet, fine watchmaking according to BOVET does not merely involve manufacturing the best timepieces – they must also be the most beautiful. Honoring the tradition of the decorative watchmaking arts has contributed to the Maison’s reputation for almost two centuries. Pascal Raffy perpetuates the unparalleled expertise of his artisans and renders it eternal. As the new emblematic timepiece of the BOVET collections, the Braveheart® offers the noblest demonstration of this new artistic orchestration. Homage must be paid first of all to the work of the master craftsmen.

Each of the 722 components of the movement passes through the expert hands of the artisans of this prestigious workshop, where all the traditional decorative techniques have been mastered to perfection. The decoration of the Braveheart®’s components often requires thirty times more time than that required to manufacture the same, functional component. Chamfering, circular graining, all techniques are used to enhance the precious mechanics of the Braveheart®, down to the rounding off of the curved arms of the tourbillon bridge, which alone requires two days of work and establishes a new landmark in the excellence of the decorative arts.


The meticulous work of the hand-engravers completes this enchanting decoration. Each bridge and plate passes through their hands, as they complete this masterpiece with engraving that is unique to every timepiece. The two barrels are adorned with a symbolic sentence that paraphrases the authenticity certificates accompanying historic timepieces produced by BOVET: “Faictes de mains de Maistres pour servir ponctuels Gentils hommes, ce par quoy nous attestons longue valeur” (“Born from the hands of Masters to serve punctual Gentlemen, by which we certify enduring value”). This maxim begins on one of the barrels and ¬ finishes on the second. For increased legibility and to add a new esthetic dimension, this sentence has been etched using deep engraving: an additional prowess underlining the talent of the Maison’s craftsmen.

The concept of a timepiece as a whole still prevails at BOVET. As such, the decorative arts are not restricted to the movement, and combine to make a harmonious ensemble. Depending on the collector’s preferences, the reversed hand dial can also be manufactured in an unlimited range of noble materials or adorned with a sumptuous miniature painting. Finally, the gem-setting possibilities offered for the Braveheart® utterly defy comprehension. All of the case’s surfaces can be set with baguette cut diamonds of the highest quality. Both sides of the bow, the entire caseband, the strap fastener and both bezels can also be adorned in this way. Yet Pascal Raffy has gone even further, pushing the Maison’s case constructor to his very limits by requesting the possibility of setting the inside of the case with gemstones too. Consequently, both flanges and the inside of the caseband, which is highly visible around the tourbillon carriage, can also be set with baguette-cut diamonds to ensure absolutely unprecedented elegance.

As usual, the collector can also request any personalization he or she wishes. Whether it involves decorating the movement or the external parts of the timepiece, the technical department and craftsmen of DIMIER will unite to honor every request.

Like all Fleurier collections, the case of the Braveheart® is equipped with the Amadeo® System, the sixth patent, which allows the timepiece to be converted into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock or a pocket watch without the use of a single tool. For even more elegance and prestige, the bolt that frees the mobile bezel is operated by means of a secret push-piece nestled at the center of the crown. Pascal Raffy and all of BOVET’s craftsmen are setting a new milestone in their quest for perfection with the Braveheart®, lending a new interpretation of their art to the noblest expression of time. As the latest example of the virtuosity that characterizes BOVET, the Braveheart® provides a new definition of watchmaking excellence.

Technical details
Case
Type: Amadeo® convertible
Diameter: 45.20mm
Thickness (With Glasses): 16.20mm
Thickness (Without Glasses): 11.60mm
Gold Weight:  89.18gr (red gold) / 92.39gr (white gold)
Case Material: 18K white gold, red gold or platinum 950/1000
Bracelet: Full skin alligator
Buckle: 18K red or white gold ardillon
Chain: 18K white or red gold
Water resistance: 30m

Movement
Caliber 17BM02AI22J
Type Hand-wound
Diameter 17’’’
Frequency 18’000v/h
Power reserve 22 days

Dials
Black or white polished lacquered with Roman applied numerals

Functions
Hours, minutes retrograde, double coaxial seconds on tourbillon, power reserve indicator, reversed hand fitting

Editions
Limited edition of 30 Timepieces in 18K red gold
Limited edition of 30 Timepieces in 18K white gold
Limited edition of 20 Timepieces in 950/1000 platinum

ROMAIN VOLLET Motor Skull

Switzerland based designer ROMAIN VOLLET announces his new watch collection: The Motor Skull. To be unveiled at Baselworld 2015, the new timepiece collection from the young Geneva brand ROMAIN VOLLET is a perfect fusion of a rebellious spirit and an audacious elegance. Inspired by the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), the Motor Skull endorses the symbolism of the skull decorated, enhanced by an automatic mechanical movement skeleton.
The designer chooses the skull, a true symbol of freedom and non-conformism, to embody a contemporary and Rock vision of the watchmaking world. This vanity has a strong visual power with a finely perforated and laminated dial. It subtly reveals the parts of this timepiece and one can admire its skeleton mechanical movement.
At the back on the rotor, the famous Bob Dylan song entitled "Forever Young" is engraved as a leitmotiv. This hymn to life reminds us, like a memento mori, the importance of fully enjoying every moment.
ROMAIN VOLLET was born in 1979 in the Geneva region. Graduated in Applied Arts in Paris, he continued his studies in Industrial Design in England, then in Italy, before settling in Paris in 2002. After many years of collaboration with well-known brands, he moved to Geneva in 2015 to launch his own watch line. With his first collection, ROMAIN VOLLET gives his personnel vision of watchmaking.
By redefining and broadening the codes, he imposes a contemporary style that combines the rigor of the watch classicism and the alternative energy of an independent culture.
In reflection of its time, the elegance is revealed through a refined and sharp design, a robust mechanism and noble material, which provide ROMAIN VOLLET timepieces character and quality.
Motor Skull is available in Stainless Steel and Black PVD coated stainless steel and Red Gold.
Technical details
Movement
Type: Skeleton self-winding mechanical
Frequency: 21’600 Alt/h
Jewels: 21
Power reserve: +36 hours

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds

Series
100/Stainless Steel
400/Black PVD coated SS with Stainless steel bezel
500/Black PVD coated Stainless steel
600/Stainless steel with red gold bezel
700/Red Gold

Case
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.65 mm
Glass: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Rhodium or black

Bracelet
Material: Black matte genuine calf leather
Buckle type: Folding clasp with pushers

MB&F HM3 MEGAWIND Final Edition

MB&F announces MEGAWIND Final Edition, the closing model in brand’s successful HM3 series. In this edition, the darkness of the black PVD treated 18k gold case and blackened 22k gold and titanium rotor is punctuated in the dark by the bright green glow of Super-LumiNova. And the light emanating steadily from the indications is in contrast to the stroboscopic flash of light as the rotor covers/uncovers a bright band of lume at the top of the movement.

In this Final Edition, MB&F incorporates the most advanced Super-LumiNova available on the market today: GL C3 Grade A. This is not only the brightest but also the purest form of the luminescent material, recognisable by its typical green hue; while Super-LumiNova comes in many colours, the active pigments are always green and other colours partially mask the green glow. HM3 MEGAWIND Final Edition is a limited edition of 25 pieces in black PVD-treated 18k gold and titanium, with Super-LumiNova numerals and band under the rotor.
The MEGAWIND Final Edition combines an oversized winding rotor dial side with highly-legible time indication cones rising up from the asymmetric case: hours are displayed on the left, minutes on the right. An exceptionally skilled artisan painstakingly applies Super LumiNova on these conical indications by hand, one numeral after the other, with a small syringe – consistently squeezing out just the right amount of the luminescent paste.

While the viewer’s gaze will naturally be attracted towards the three-dimensional sculptures housing the hours and minutes, it is likely to be the giant battle-axe shaped winding rotor that mesmerises the eye as it swings unhurriedly, but indomitably over the meticulously hand-finished movement. It's in the dark however when the rotor really comes alive with light.

MEGAWIND is powered by the beautifully engineered, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht-designed HM3 engine. Placing the rotor and regulator on the dial side required an inverted movement, which was only possible thanks to two large high-tech ceramic bearings – visible through the display back – that efficiently transmit time up to the revolving hour and minute cones above. Rotating domes of this size and shape posed several technical challenges. The hour and minute domes are machined from solid blocks of aluminium, chosen for its optimal strength-to-weight ratio; this keeps energy requirements to an absolute minimum.

Close inspection of the case – which comprises over 50 separate components – is rewarded with a myriad of carefully considered details, including the bevelled perimeter of the rotor display crystal that adds visual flair as the angles catch and reflect flashes of light; the bespoke clover-head gold screws; and the cleverly integrated lugs attaching the strap.

HM3 has an inverted movement so that its operation can be easily seen from the dial side and MEGAWIND Final Edition follows the same principle. Harmoniously crafted bridges, rapidly oscillating balance wheel, gearing and MB&F’s iconic battle-axe automatic winding rotor are all open to view on the dial side. This allows the wearer to fully appreciate the art and craft of the HM3 engine by drawing the viewer’s gaze inside the highly complex machine; a machine comprising more than 300 fine-finished, high-precision components.

The movement of HM3 has been literally turned upside down to allow for an uninterrupted panorama of the powerfully graceful rotation of the 22k gold and titanium winding rotor and the high-speed oscillations of the balance wheel. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, winner of the inaugural award for Best Watchmaker at the 2007 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, was entrusted with turning the drawings and designs of Maximilian Büsser and designer Eric Giroud into horological reality and, with his team at Agenhor, he surpassed the challenge.

Until MEGAWIND Final Edition, adding Super-LumiNova to the display was thought to be impossible as the lume has to be hand painted on the curved cones of HM3. While no longer impossible, the technique for applying the lume is anything but straightforward. White paint is first hand-painted onto the numeral shapes of an indication cone projected flat. A silicon stamp is pressed onto this flat surface to pick up the white paint in the correct shape and then the operator carefully uses the stamp to evenly transfer the paint to the three-dimensional cone. The white paint not only serves as a template but also acts as a reflector for the Super-LumiNova, which is then painstakingly applied by hand as a second layer.
While Super-LumiNova comes in many colours, the active pigments are always green and other colours partially mask the green glow so they are less bright. For HM3 MEGAWIND Final Edition, MB&F uses C3 grade Super-LumiNova, which emits the purest and brightest light.

HM3 was first presented in 2009 and in its six years of production became MB&F’s most popular model. The case and movement architecture have given rise to no fewer than 19 different variations: HM3 Starcruiser in red and white gold, HM3 Sidewinder in red and white gold, HM3 ReBel, JWLRYMACHINE in purple and pink versions, HM3 Frog Ti, HM3 Chocolate Frog, HM3 Black Frog (green rotor), HM3 Frog Zr (purple rotor), HM3 Fire Frog, HM3 Poison Dart Frog, MoonMachine in titanium, black and red gold variations, MEGAWIND in red and white gold and last, but certainly not least, MEGAWIND Final Edition.

The hour and minute cones are milled from solid aluminium to paper-thin thickness. The cones are housed within three-dimensional truncated gold and sapphire crystal cones, which are brazed together. Brazing is a high-temperature soldering technique that is aesthetically pleasing and ensures a solid, water-resistant construction.

Independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva (co-creator of MB&F’s MoonMachine) provided both the initial idea for the large rotor and the name, MEGAWIND. The two 22K gold blades of the iconic MB&F battle-axe rotor on the dial make what is called a ‘mystery’ rotor because, in appearing to be symmetrically balanced instead of having a visibly off-centred mass, they look to defy the laws of physics. This ‘mystery’ is achieved by machining the underside of one of the gold blades to a razor-thin edge, so reducing its mass.

The MEGAWIND Final Edition rotor adds a layer of stealth (by day) and illumination by night: the titanium and 22K white gold rotor is blackened so that it blends seamlessly with the case. When it's dark however, a thick line of Super-LumiNova is alternately revealed and covered by the turning rotor, adding animated bright flashes from the glowing green lume to the glowing indications.

Time indications are usually located on the top, or dial side, of a movement. As the movement of HM3 is inverted to display its operation, an efficient solution was needed to bring power from the bottom of the movement to the timekeeping cones at the top. Standard pinions set in jewels would have required complex, friction-generating gearing, and would require support top and bottom – a factor which would increase the height of the movement, and thus the watch.

So instead of standard jewelled pinions, HM3 features two large-diameter (15mm) high-tech ceramic bearings. Because of their large diameter, these bearings minimise the number of friction inducing gears and, due to the rigidity resulting from their ultra-high precision design and manufacture, they only require support at one end (the base) so allow for a thinner movement.

Technical details
Model: MB&F MEGAWIND FINAL EDITION
Limited Edition of 25 Pieces

Engine
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor; based on a Sowind oscillator and gear train
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph
Automatic winding rotor in 3 parts: hub and arms in blackened titanium with outer sections in blackened 22k gold, fastened with 4 rivets
Time indications transmitted via ceramic ball bearings
Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 270

Functions
Hours in C3 Super-LumiNova on one cone
Minutes in C3 Super-LumiNova on second cone

Case
Black PVD-treated 18k white gold and titanium
Limited edition of 25 pieces, all numbered "1 in 25"
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 17mm
Number of case components: 52
Sapphire cones and front and back display crystals have anti-reflective treatment on both faces

Strap
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k gold and titanium custom designed folding buckle

Victorinox Swiss Army I.N.O.X. REMADE IN SWITZERLAND

Inspired by the famous “REMADE IN SWITZERLAND” fashion collection developed for Victorinox by British designer Christopher Raeburn in 2011, I.N.O.X. is adopting recycled military leather for a limited edition of just 250 timepieces.

In 2011, the fashion division of Victorinox made the headlines during New York Fashion Week with a capsule collection entitled “REMADE IN SWITZERLAND” created by brilliant designer Christopher Raeburn. Swiss Army blankets, sleeping bags and parachutes were recycled into a clever range of clothes, and this partnership led to the appointment of Christopher Raeburn as Artistic Director of Victorinox Fashion in 2013.

Victorinox Swiss Army has chosen to honour this REMADE IN SWITZERLAND collection with a limited and numbered edition of its I.N.O.X. watch, a timepiece of extraordinary resilience. This model, limited to 250 timepieces, features a leather strap fashioned from a stock of Swiss Army military bags dating from the period 1911 to 1970.
Renowned by collectors for its incomparable quality, this vintage, vegetable-tanned leather with a beautiful patina offers unprecedented resistance despite its age, which can sometimes exceed 100 years. A removable protective bumper that can be attached to the watch case has also been created.
Cut out of the same leather, the bumper’s opening over the dial follows the contours of the trademark bezel design of I.N.O.X. Since each strap and bumper originates from a different bag or cartridge belt, every one of the 250 pieces has its own unique colour and patina. In a further mark of their individuality, each of the 250 pieces will be numbered.

Technical details
Case
Reinforced 43 mm stainless steel
Scratch resistant sapphire crystal with triple anti-reflective treatment
Water resistant to 200 meters (20 ATM / 660 feet)
Removable protective bumper made of vintage leather cut from a stock of Swiss Army military bags and cartridge belts dating from the period 1911 to 1970
Screwed-on stainless- steel case back

Dial
Military time on the flange
Date window at 4h30

Movement
Swiss made Ronda 715 quartz movement


Strap
Strap made of vintage leather cut from a stock of Swiss Army military bags and cartridge belts dating from the period 1911 to 1970
Supplied with a second strap in green rubber

Availability
Spring 2015

Ollivier Savéo Watches - Introduction

Ollivier Savéo is a Geneva based luxury watch brand established by Ollivier Savelli. This young watch brand offers Swiss Made quality watches that feature exclusive, registered shapes and incorporate patented techniques. Motifs and cases of these timepieces are specially designed by Ollivier Savelli. Motifs realized by himself in the most precious and noble materials:  gold, complex sapphire crystal, gemstones, leather of high-end quality. These truly exclusive pieces-of-art watches, signed and numbered as unique pieces or extra-limited series, meet the highest requirements and quality criteria.

About Ollivier Savelli
Born and raised in France, Ollivier Savelli started his vocational training in 1984 with the ‘‘Compagnons du Tour de France’’ where he learnt professional excellence and nourished traditional know-how. In 1992, he managed a manufacturing unit in a jewellery store specialized in bespoke high-end products, directly with the customers. In 2000, he won the world recognized price of the ‘‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’’, organized every three years by the French Government.
In 2001, he managed a Research Office of second biggest jewellery producer in France. He had worked with several well-recognized watchmaking brands in Switzerland including in industrial and creative restructuring for a Luxury brand in Asia and Europe. In 2011, he managed a Swiss watch manufacture, involved in industrial and creative restructuring including two world premieres for the watchmaking segment. In 2013, Ollivier Savelli created and worldwide patented three patents related to watchmaking and plenty of models.  In 2015, he created the watchmaking brand Ollivier Savéo in Geneva.

Infused with multiple professional cultures, Ollivier Savelli thinks watchmaking in a different way: he is first considering watches as pieces of art, source of emotion, before considering it as a technical prowess essential to the timekeeper. All  those  influences  are  great  to  find  original  and  innovating  solutions. Here,  no  mass production  series,  but  only  small  ones  and  even  unique  pieces,  for  preferred  customers looking for a completely exclusive craft-trade product combining the art of a jeweler with the great Swiss watchmaking tradition.

Hand-made sculpture: Hand-made sculpture allows an artistic realization for any artistic motif. The cross-use of the last high-precision watchmaking techniques and high jewellery traditional know-how provides an artistic work on really small elements (less than one millimeter), while keeping a five hundredth millimeters precision conductive to the watchmaking strictness.

Computing creation: Computer aided artistic and technical creation provides a bridge between the hand and the machine. When its use is pursuant to a perfect know-how, it allows a cohesive link between art and the mechanical constraints necessary to the perfection of the mechanism and highrange watchmaking finishing.

Traditional Jewellery: A 25 years long experience serving the most famous names allow to control all the tools and the know-how from the arts and crafts professions linked to high jewellery. Thanks to them, the most various materials can be shaped, from the most traditional as engraving or enamel to the most innovative like the shaping of composite materials.

Ollivier Savéo Watch Collections
1. Ollivier Savéo Foliage
Sophisticated and stylish, this Swiss made unique piece displays the hours and the minutes thanks to a quartz movement surrounded by flowers and their foliage. The stigmas of the four flowers are symbolized by as many diamonds, crimped in their center for a total of 0.19 carats. Combining the reassuring strength of its gold pink inside, the transparency of its Pyrex case and the bucolic atmosphere of its decoration, this watch is the perfect combination of a woman watch both technical and distinguish.
Movement: Swiss quartz movement, ETA 280
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Case: Pink gold 18 ct, 49 g
Body: Pink gold 18 ct, 23 gr, Hand engraved with 4 diamonds in flowers (0.19 ct)
Size: 36×41 mm, Height 14 mm
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Watch Crystal: Special cut antireflective sapphire
Strap: Satin white (25mm) special cut
Other models on request
External screws 316 L Steel with PVD coating, Pink gold 18ct
Buckle Double folding clasp, Pink gold 18 ct, average weight 15g
Limited Edition: Unique Piece
Total Gold 4N 18ct Average weight 87g
Optional version: Crimped case: 50 dts TW/ VS, 0.91 ct

Ollivier Savéo Butterfly
Sophisticated and stylish, this Swiss made exclusive piece displays the hours and the minutes thanks to a quartz movement surrounded by a tree in bloom where a butterfly takes refuge. The stigmas of the nine flowers are symbolized by as many pink sapphires, crimped in their center for a total of 0.37 carats. Forty-four blues sapphires, for their part, are crimped on the wings of the butterfly, for a total of 0.80 carats. Combining the reassuring strength of its gold pink inside, the transparency of its Pyrex case and the bucolic atmosphere of its decoration, this watch is the perfect combination of a woman watch both technical and distinguish.
Movement: Swiss quartz movement, ETA 280
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Case: Pink gold 18ct, average weight 49g
Body: Pink gold 18ct, average weight 37g, Hand engraved with 49 sapphires (1.11 ct), 4 brilliants TW/VS1 (0.0.45 ct)
Size: 44×41 mm, Height 14 mm
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Watch Crystal: Special cut antireflective sapphire
Strap: Louisiana Alligator (30mm Special Cut) Blue
Other models on request
External screws 316 L Steel with PVD coating, pink gold 18ct
Buckle Double folding clasp, pink gold 18ct, average weight 15.5g
Limited Edition 33 Pieces
Total Gold 4N 18ct Average weight 101g
Total gemstones 44 stones, 1.15 ct
Optional version: Crimped case: 50 dts TW/ VS, 0.91 ct

Ollivier Savéo Skull
The pattern of this Swiss made 33 pieces limited edition was totally hand sculpted. The result is ping gold watch housing, under the perfect transparency of its Pyrex glass, a human skull surrounded by flames. An automatic movement is hiding behind it, displaying the hours and the minutes with 38 hours power reserve.
Movement: Swiss automatic movement, ETA 2824, Power reserve 38h
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Case: Pink gold 18ct, average weight 49g
Body: Pink gold 18ct, average weight 49.5g
Size: 44×41 mm, Height: 14 mm
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Watch Crystal: Special cut antireflective sapphire
Strap: Louisiana Alligator (30mm Special Cut) Black
Other models on request
Buckle Double folding clasp, Pink gold 18ct, average weight 15g
Limited Edition 33 Pieces
Total gold 4N 18ct Average weight 112.5g
Optional version: 50 dts TW/ VS, 0.91ct

Ollivier Savéo Petroleum
The  Petroleum  timekeeper,  Swiss  Made  33  pieces  collection,  displays  the  hours  and  the minutes thanks to an automatic skeleton mechanism, decorated and surrounded by a scenery inspired by pipelines and the universe of oil in general. A transparent and totally hermetic ampoule, placed on the side, is there for hosting a sample of the purest black gold. Merging brute force and ultimate accuracy, this piece invested with black and gold will satisfy the most exigent fans of mechanical wonders.
Movement: Swiss Automatic decorated skeleton Movement Séllita SW300, Black PVD treatment
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Case: Pink gold 18ct, average weight 49g
Body: Pink gold 18ct, average weight 27g, Steel screws, Gold PVD treatment
Size: 44×41 mm, Height: 14 mm
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Crystal Watch Special cut antireflective sapphire
Strap: Louisiana Alligator (30mm Special Cut) Black
Other models on request
External screws 316 L Steel with PVD coating
Buckle Double folding clasp, Pink gold 18ct, average weight 15g
Limited Edition 33 Pieces
Total Gold 4N 18ct 91g
Optional Version : Crimped case: 50 dts TW/ VS, 0.91ct

Contact details
Ollivier Savéo
144 rue de Genève
CH-1226 Thônex
Switzerland
www.ollivier-saveo.ch

Bremont Jaguar MKI & MKII

Jaguar and Bremont have announced two new watch collaborations. These exciting introductions will make their global debut at the Baselworld watch show, March 2015.

The two British firms are cementing their long-term partnership following an overwhelming response to the creation of six Bremont chronometers which complement each of the six ‘continuation’ lightweight E-Type sports racing cars currently being built by Jaguar. These watches are both dedicated to the road-going Jaguar E-Type which at its 1961 launch was not only the fastest production car in the world but, according to Enzo Ferrari, the most beautiful.

In working to capture the E-Type’s essence in a wrist watch, Jaguar’s Director of Design Ian Callum and the creative team at Bremont homed-in on another of its signature features - the dashboard. At its heart are the speedometer and tachymeter (or ‘rev counter’) and it is these that inspired the look of the new Bremont Jaguar MKI and MKII watches.
The MKI responds to the call for a more accessible version of the original ‘Lightweight’ limited edition watch by reproducing many of its design features but substituting the white gold and aluminium of the Lightweight’s case for a slimmer version in polished stainless steel.
Save for the addition of a date window at the six o’clock position, the tachymetre-inspired dial is similar to that of the Lightweight, featuring an off-set small seconds indicator and a distinctive ‘red line’ quadrant between three and four o’clock. Behind the dial and double-domed crystal of the 43mm MKI watch lies a new movement with date functionality based on Bremont’s meticulously finished self-winding proprietary BWC/01.
Turning the MKI over not only reveals the beautifully finished movement through the sapphire crystal case back, but also one of the most intriguing features of the watch: a striking automatic winding weight in the form of an exquisite miniaturisation of a three-spoke E-Type steering wheel, complete with the iconic Jaguar head at its centre.
The MKII, meanwhile, instantly transports the wearer back to the golden era of 1960s sports car motoring, its black dial carrying the Jaguar heritage logo above the six o’clock position and its hour markings being in the style of the numerals found on E-Type instruments.

The classic chronograph layout - featuring two subdials at the three o’clock and nine o’clockpositions - is achieved through the use of the beautifully decorated BE-50AE automatic movement which has been specially customised by Bremont to a unique specification, a subtle ‘red line’ on the 60-minute counter paying homage to the E-Type’s tachymeter.

The 43mm stainless steel case - which is fitted with a double-domed crystal to enhance the vintage appearance of the watch - is made entirely in the UK by Bremont using its renowned, three-part ‘Trip-Tick’ technology which ensures a hardness seven times greater than that of a normal steel watch.

Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, the mechanism again pays tribute to the E-Type with an automatic ‘steering wheel’ winding weight in the same style as that of the MKI. Further automotive imagery can be seen in the ‘tyre tread’ winding crown, which is topped with the Jaguar heritage logo to match that of the dial. MKI and MKII watches will be supplied with a perforated ‘racing’ strap in true ‘60s style, together with a traditional leather spare.

The Jaguar E-Type - An Automotive Legend
The Jaguar E-Type sports car, created by former aircraft designer Malcolm Sayer, was unveiled outside the Restaurant du Parc des Eaux Vives during the Geneva Salon at 4.30 pm on March 15, 1961. Its radical appearance and promise of being ‘the fastest production car in the world’ caused near hysteria and resulted in 500 orders being placed during the show. It’s powered by a race-bred, six-cylinder, 3.8 litre, 265 horsepower engine that gave the car a top speed of 150 mph - yet, at £2,098 for the roadster and £2,197 for the fixed-head coupe, it cost less than half the price of a comparable Ferrari or Aston Martin.
During its 14-year production run, the E-Type evolved to feature first a 4.2 litre engine and, ultimately, Jaguar’s 5.3 litre V12. It was offered with manual or automatic transmission and, in final ‘Series 3’ form, fixed-head models were available only with family-friendly two-plus-two bodywork.

More than 72,000 E-Types were built, with around 12,000 being sold in Britain and the majority going to the USA. Celebrated owners included Frank Sinatra, George Harrison, Britt Ekland, Peter Sellers, Sir Jackie Stewart and George Best. The best Series 1 ‘flat floor’ E-Type roadsters now command more than £100,000.

BREMONT JAGUAR MKI
Movement
Bremont BWC/01-10 33.4mm Automatic with 25 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox CT balance spring and Nivaflex 1 mainspring
Highly efficient double reverser bi-directional winding mechanism to achieve 28,800bph and 50+ hour power reserve
Miniature Jaguar E-Type steering wheel rotor with Growler emblem

Functions
Hour/Minutes, small seconds counter at 9H
Date at 6H

Case
Polished and hardened stainless steel Bremont TripTick® construction with stainless steel case barrel
Case diameter 43.00mm, lug width 22.00mm, case thickness 16.00mm
Case Back: Stainless steel with integrated flat crystal, 4 stainless steel screws
Dial: Black metal dial with treated steel hands
Crystal: Double-domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 10 ATM, 100 metres

Strap
Calf skin leather with stainless steel pin buckle.

BREMONT JAGUAR MKII
Movement
Calibre 13 1/4” BE-50AE automatic, 28 jewels, Glucydur balance, Anachron balance spring, Nivaflex 1 mainspring, 28,800bph, 42 hour power reserve
Miniature Jaguar E-Type steering wheel rotor

Functions
Hour/Minutes, small seconds counter at 9H. Date at 6H. Chronograph centre sweep seconds hand, 30 minutes counter at 3H.

Case and dial
Polished and hardened stainless steel Bremont
Trip-Tick® construction with scratch resistant DLC treated case barrel
Case diameter 43.00mm, lug width 22.00mm, case thickness 16.00mm
Case BACK: Stainless steel with integrated flat crystal, 5 stainless steel screws with polished heads.
Dial: Black metal dial with treated steel hands
Crystal: Double-domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 10 ATM, 100 metres

Ratings
C.O.S.C chronometer tested.

Strap
Calf skin leather with stainless steel pin buckle.

Certification
Every watch case and movement is engraved with its Bremont serial number and is accompanied with its C.O.S.C certification.

Monday, February 23, 2015

Arnold & Son DSTB (Instrument Collection), New Reference in Stainless Steel Case

Demonstrating its rich British history and quality Swiss craftsmanship, Arnold & Son unveils a new limited edition of the DSTB (Dial Side True Beat). The DSTB is a testament to its heritage, vision and Haute Horlogerie ingenuity.

The DSTB is part of the Instrument Collection and, like every other model from Arnold & Son, features an in-house mechanical movement. The true beat seconds is a traditional complication of Arnold & Son, and this watch pays tribute to the watches produced by John Arnold during the second half of his career, when he and his son were the first to develop marine chronometers that could be produced in quantity at reasonable prices. Those technically superior, widely distributed chronometers reflected Arnold & Son’s commitment to exceptional precision and solved the problem of determining longitude at sea.

Upholding that legacy, Arnold & Son’s master watchmakers thrive on creating complicated movements for exquisite timepieces. Such is the case with the DSTB watch, a truly innovative technical and architectural achievement. The newly developed automatic movement showcases the true beat seconds' mechanism entirely on the dial side. Not just the hands, but also the lever, wheels and three palladium treated true beat seconds bridges are located in all their beauty on the dial side. Making the watch even more alluring is the fact that the true beat seconds lever is shaped like an anchor –paying homage to Arnold’s maritime achievements.
The true beat seconds are superbly indicated via a large sapphire dial that occupies the top left portion of the dial at 11 o’clock. At the 4 o’clock position, a silvery opaline subdial indicates the hours and the minutes via blued hands. These generously proportioned, overlapping indications translate into a stunning three-dimensional dial.
The self-winding calibre A&S 6003 has 229 components. In true Arnold & Son style, the NAC grey treated movement features Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered and satin-finished lever and bridges, polished edges and fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. The visible dial plate is black ADLC treated with large circular finishing, and screws with bevelled and mirror polished heads.
The magnificent timepiece is housed inside a 43.5 mm stainless steel case with antireflective sapphire crystal and case back for viewing the superbly finished movement, complete with skeletonised oscillating weight. This edition of the DSTB will be limited to 250 timepieces – underscoring the brand’s commitment to exclusivity and excellence.

Technical details
Model: DSTB
Reference: 1ATAS.S02A.C121S
Limited edition: 250 timepieces

Movement
Calibre A&S6003
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, 32 jewels, diameter 38 mm, thickness 7.39 mm, power reserve 50 h, 28,800 vibrations/h
Functions: hours, minutes, true beat seconds
Movement decoration: NAC grey treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, dial plate black ADLC treated with large circular finishing, circular satin-finished wheels, screws with bevelled and mirror polished heads
True beat seconds bridges: palladium treated, satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges
Oscillating weight: NAC grey treated, skeletonised with brushed surfaces

Dial
Silvery opaline, sapphire

Case
Stainless steel, diameter 43.5 mm, cambered sapphire with antireflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water resistant to 30 m

Strap
Hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather strap

Dewitt Academia Grand Tourbillon

Swiss luxury watch brand DeWitt is unveiling its latest technical innovation, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch, a limited edition of 99 pieces, entirely conceived and assembled at the DeWitt Manufacture by its own master watchmakers.

This new Academia creation houses the calibre DW 8030, developed from the DW 8028 movement, the Manufacture's first 100% in-house manually-wound tourbillon movement, first presented in 2010.

Built out of 327 component parts, this calibre is structured along traditional lines and incorporates numerous tried and tested technical features: 18,000 vph, a 65-hour power reserve, a Swiss lever escapement and a Straumann balance-spring with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
For its part, the time display in the form of a jumping hour and minute indication reflects DeWitt's unique creativity and ground-breaking approach, far removed from the codes of conventional watchmaking. For the setting of the hours, a rack mechanism is activated to give added mobility to then watch's dial. As each minute passes, a slip-spring moves into place, drawing the observer's eyes once again to the depths of this sophisticated mechanism.
The dial is made up of a silvered grid linked to the watch's movement that recalls the inner workings of industrial machinery at the beginning of the 20th century. The date is displayed in a rose gold colour tone in a window at 3 o'clock and is adjustable by a corrector situated on the side of the case. Equipped with a circular 46 mm rose gold case adorned with the famous imperial columns, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch is one of DeWitt's most emblematic timepieces.

On the reverse side of the watch the sapphire case back reveals a day and night indicator, which takes on a blue colour tone to indicate night-time and a white colour tone to indicate day-time hours.
Like every DeWitt tourbillon, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch bears the signature of the watchmaker who assembled the timepiece, inscribed on the decorative silvered grid located on the back of the movement. In order to ensure perfect quality, DeWitt makes it a point of honour that each grand complication movement should be assembled, set and tested by the same master watchmaker.
Last but not least, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch fully complies with the extremely demanding finishing norms established by the DeWitt Manufacture. Crafted exclusively by hand, this model features finishes of rare quality that can be observed by looking at its sapphire case back. The barrel bridge is sandblasted with a "Black Gold" treatment, the balance has a rose gold colour tone and the carriage bar is satin-finished and rhodium-plated.

The crown and the buckle are each crafted in 18-carat rose gold and adorned with the brand's "W" signature initial. With its flawless movement and powerful allure, the Adademia Grand Tourbillon watch combines the very best of traditional craftsmanship with the technical and aesthetic innovation that is characteristic of all watch designs by Jérôme de Witt.

Technical details
Model: Academia Grand Tourbillon

Movement
Calibre DW8030
Mechanical manually-wound movement incorporating a DeWitt Manufacture tourbillon
Diameter: 37 mm
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Balance: Variable-inertia balance
Balance spring: Spiral Straumann® with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Number of components: 327

Functions
Jumping hours at 9 o’clock, jumping minutes at 12 hours, disc date with corrector at 8 o’clock, day/night display

Case
Round case with 24 Dewitt imperial columns on sides
Material: 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 11.90 mm
Crown: 18-carat rose gold, polished, ring in blackened titanium, “W” signature
Case back: Open back, sapphire crystal with safety screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Water-resistance: 30 metres

Dials
AC.GT.002
Green lacquer with silvered grid and circles, minute counter with black rail track, hour counter with Roman numerals and indices in rose gold colour tone, date display in rose gold colour tone
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-work hands in the form of double-edged swords
Limited Edition: 99 Pieces

AC.GT.002
Blue lacquer with silvered grid and circles, minute counter with black railtrack, hour counter with Roman numerals and indices in rose gold colour tone, date display in rose gold colour tone
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-work hands in the form of double-edged swords
Limited Edition: 99 Pieces

Wristband
Black alligator
Triple folding clasp, polished 18-carat rose gold cover with “W” signature

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Junghans Meister Collection (New Versions)

This year, German watch maker Junghans presents the models of its successful Meister range in new shades. A classic colour scheme underscores the masterful character of the timepieces and is found throughout the collection, which is a delight at any time.

This brief and fascinating moment can only be observed in a short frame of time during sunrise and sunset, lending the moment a particular effect with its deep-blue colour. It is this special atmosphere that the dial of the Meister Handaufzug (hand-winding) and Meister Chronoscope capture: presented in a blue sheen, it ensures a special aesthetic effect. The cognac-coloured leather strap skilfully accentuates the hue of the dial. A cool combination of the blue hour is achieved via the interaction of the deep-blue dial with a sporty stainless steel bracelet.
Meister Handaufzug
The Meister Agenda guarantees its wearer a masterful appearance at all times. It enables the precise planning of activities, as it displays the calendar week and is the perfect companion in your day-to-day life. Its face is characterised by eye-catching visual features: the calendar week and power reserve have their bowl-shaped place on the dial. The symmetry is rounded off by the even well-adjusted positioning of the weekday and date display. The functions on the graphite-grey dial are radiant in silver, thereby setting a fine contrast.
Meister Agenda
2015 sees the ladies' models of the Meister collection present themselves in fine attire for your evening events. Characterised by gentle yet distinctive colour tones, they represent perfect colour harmony. With their white-polished blue or grey dials, the timepieces are a feminine interpretation of the historic archetype. Graceful Roman numerals and diamond appliqué ensure a glittering presence on the wrist – and make the Meister Ladies a true gem.

When the sun sinks lower and night falls, the heavenly bodies have exercised an unbroken fascination on people since the beginning of time. The moon, in particular, acquires a particular significance through its beauty. One feature of the Meister Kalendar is the moon phase display, which is perfected in the in house printing facility, finely co-ordinated with the hue of the case, with the luminary exclusively accentuated. The indices and hands appear simple and elegant in the pink gold-coloured case, the graphite-grey dial lending a unique shimmer.
Meister Classic
The most classic of the Meister watches, the Meister Classic, also incorporates this colour dialogue, acquiring a new, graceful facet in the process.

Friday, February 20, 2015

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2

A new chronograph joins the line of Master Compressor Extreme LAB watches, a collection distinguished by precise and reliable time measurement. The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 embodies a combination of scientific materials, cutting-edge materials and horological research. Better still, the master artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre have breathed into it their passion for pushing ever further the limits of the world around us.

The Manufacture systematically applies a fundamental principle to all its creations: however complex a watch, it makes no compromises when it comes to functionality and pragmatism. This new model thus combines extremely sophisticated ergonomics with the precision and reliability that are a must at Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 features a crown integrated function selector that handles especially smoothly, a patented digital counter to indicate the chronograph jumping seconds, a manual stop seconds device, a radial power-reserve indication and a GMT function enabling at-a-glance readings. Its movement is housed in a sturdy case made of a light and resistant TiVan15 titanium alloy. It is fitted with a high-tech ultra scratch resistant ceramic bezel. Push pieces specially designed to ensure optimal user friendless provide a broad surface coated with rubber grooves and serve as a crown guard. A fast strap-change system is incorporated into the caseback and the new double pin buckle provides unprecedented length adjustment ensuring a perfect fit on the wrist.
 The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 is designed to be a reliable and easily manoeuvrable companion. The watchmakers of the Manufacture have succeeded in simplifying its handling while guaranteeing precision and reliability. To ensure access to the various watch functions whatever the conditions of wear, they have developed a function selector and an independent stop-seconds mechanism.

The function selector
Activated by means of a crown-integrated push piece, the function selector serves to adjust all functions without involving the inevitably delicate operation of pulling out the crown. Once the function is selected, the adjustment can be made by simply turning the crown. When the latter is in “neutral” position, the crown serves to wind the barrels. One press takes the user to the position required to adjust the dual time-zone display as well as the date. Another press switches the crown to main time-zone adjustment mode. And a final press brings the system back to its initial position. This system does away with the need to pull out the crown and thus ensures peerless water resistance without needing to resort to the traditional compression key.

Stop seconds device
In the time-setting position, the seconds hand continues running and the precision of the watch rating is thus not impaired. To ensure perfect synchronisation with a time signal, the user simply operates the slide located on the left side of the case. Simultaneously sliding and pressing it stops the seconds hand, which will continue running again when the slide is released. This handling in two phases – sliding and pressing – serves to avoid any accidental handling.

Power reserve
The functions of a wristwatch depend on the force transmitted to the movement. The barrel of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 guarantees a constant supply of energy for 60 hours. To consult the level of energy available at any given time, a new patented radial display providing simple and intuitive readability is arranged around the rim of the upper dial section. As the power reserve is gradually depleted, the various segments on the semi-circular indication turn from white to blue. This generously sized and unique display mode facilitates an instant check of the level of the barrel’s degree of winding, even in poor light.

Inventive push piece construction
The two traditional push pieces are covered and protected by two L-shaped metal levers that pivot around the crown. They provide a broad contact area while protecting the crown and its integrated function selector. The upper surface of the push piece is coated with rubber grooves to ensure a non-slip grip.

Dual time zone
The Master Compressor Extreme LAB has a GMT function. The second time zone, which displays the time in the owner’s usual place of residence, is shown by a second central hours hand, complete with a 24-hour display at 6 o’clock. The time zone is adjusted via a crown-integrated function selector and also drives the date in both forwards or backwards directions.

This new model is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 780, featuring a column-wheel-controlled chronograph. Precision starting and stopping of the time measurement is ensured by a vertical coupling-clutch. The large balance with its 11.5 mg.cm2 moment of inertia beats at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour and its amplitudes vary only marginally when sustaining shocks. It is fitted with variable-inertia adjustment screws. The absence of the index generally used to adjust the frequency of the balance eliminates the risk of a change in position if subjected to a violent shock. The balance-spring studholder is held by two screws which, once put in place, are secured definitively.

The balance-spring itself is fitted with a specific protective device that restricts its oscillation in case of shocks. The balance-cock is held by two pinning points in order to enhance its resistance. When it comes to endurance, the automatic rotor, which is mounted on ceramic ball bearings that require no lubricant, winds the barrel of the watch so as to ensure a 60-hour power reserve. All movement components are meticulously decorated.

Strap system
The inventively designed new integrated interchangeable strap system is operated by means of a lever on the caseback. Rotating it releases the strap attachment and enables a smooth and easy change. The double alligator strap guarantees maximum durability and comfort, while the secure double pin buckle ensures precise two-position adjustment between each notch.

Digital chronograph minutes counter
In order to guarantee optimal at-a-glance readability the watchmakers of the Manufacture have designed a display enabling instant read-off. A large double digit counter ideally situated at 12 o’clock indicates the chronograph minutes. Its operation is based on an instant-jump mechanism activated at the exact moment when the seconds hand completes one full turn. The chronograph hours totaliser is located at 9 o’clock, coaxially with the movement seconds.

A powerful design for optimised use
The black ceramic bezel of the Extreme LAB 2 offers superior protection, as does the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The crown also made of ceramic, echoes the particularly elegant bezel with its polished and satin-brushed finish. For the case middle, the engineers of the Manufacture have chosen a two-part construction on which an external brancard (carrier or shaft) serves as a strap attachment and a base for the inner case housing the movement. This system combines robustness and lightness thanks to TiVan15, a titanium and vanadium alloy providing 15% greater traction resistance than traditional titanium alloys.

The substantially open worked dial serves to observe the details of the calibre structure through the sapphire crystal. The black or ruthenium coating of various movement components creates a striking contrast with the numerals and hands in order to give the chronograph maximum readability.

High-tech materials, daring shapes combined with the double-ringed case structure, add to the aesthetic intensity of this chronograph. It alternates between blue and white colour codes, particularly on the chronograph hours counters, permeated by a resolutely graphic spirit and driven by a concern for legibility. While its appearance is undeniably complex, the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 is easily tamed by the person who has chosen to adopt it.

Technical details
Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme LAB2

Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre 780 Calibre
Mechanical automatic movement developed and produced by the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre
• 569 parts for Calibre 780
• Chronograph with large double-digit minutes counter
• Crown selector and function indicator
• Main time-zone adjustable in one-hour increments
• Second time-zone (hour and 24-hour indication)
• 180° radial 60-hour power-reserve display
• Small seconds (movement operating indicator)
• Independent stop seconds device
• Nickel silver ebauche
• Diameter: 33.8 mm. Thickness: 9.08 mm
Chronograph
• Large twin-disc 60-minute digital minutes counter with built-in locking system
• Eight-of-a-second seconds counter
• 24-hour display
• Column wheel
• Vertical coupling-clutch
• Rubber-clad push-pieces and push-piece guards
Function selector
• Ceramic crown with integrated function selector push-piece
• Column wheel-type selection system
• Three-position indicator: 1. Winding, 2. Date and dual-time adjustment, 3. Time-setting
Escapement
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• Large variable-inertia balance (11.5 mg•cm2)
• Balance with two pinning points with stud-holder locking plate
Automatic winding
• Oscillating weight mounted on ceramic ball bearings, lubricant-free
• Unidirectional winding
• Three-spoke oscillating weight and platinum segment

Case
143 parts
Double-ringed case
Spring-secured ceramic bezel
Secure and ergonomic chronograph push-pieces
Sapphire crystal (caseback and dial)
Materials, two versions:
- TiVan15 (material exclusive to Jaeger-LeCoultre).Ceramic bezel and crown, rubber-clad push-piece guards.
-18-carat pink gold and TiVan15 (material exclusive to Jaeger-LeCoultre).Ceramic bezel and crown, rubber-clad push-piece guards
Diameter 46.8 mm. Thickness: 16.5 mm

Dial and hands
Open-worked dial, black PVD-coated bridges
Raised function display
Luminescent hour-markers
New shape of open-worked hands

Strap and buckle
• Lever-operated strap interchangeability system
• Strap held to 2 attachment points, triple-notch fine adjustment
• Secure double pin buckle with double-notch fine adjustment, built-in interchangeability system

Watches tested for 1000 hours

References
Q2032540, 18-carat pink gold
Q203T540, TiVan 15
Q203T541, TiVan 15 – new model

Thursday, February 19, 2015

Girard-Perregaux 1966 18K Pink Gold Edition with Guilloché Dial

Swiss luxury watch manufacture Girard-Perregaux unveils a new reinterpretation of its iconic Girard-Perregaux 1966 watch, with an 18K pink gold case featuring an exclusive guilloché dial. This mechanical watchmaking and aesthetic wonder is offered in both a men's and ladies' version.

Combining the discreet, timeless elegance of great classic watches, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection is now enhanced by the addition of two new models with dials featuring delicate guilloché work, which gives this timepiece a perfectly-matched face and mechanism in the finest watchmaking tradition built up by our Manufacture over the last two centuries.

Available in two matching men's and ladies' versions, the delicately rounded dial is adorned with a superb guilloché pattern. The most prestigious of traditional watch decorations, the twelve sectors of the concentric pattern radiate from the centre of the dial to create a delicate arabesque with silvered opaline reflections. The hours are marked by baton-shaped indexes, passed over by the collection's characteristic leaf-shaped hands.
The pink gold case with its understated lines, designed and produced in the Manufacture’s own workshops, is a model of harmony and has had an enormous amount of attention lavished upon it. Its delicately inclined bezel is polished and then diamond-polished to emphasise its elegance, and the ladies' version is lit up by some 60 diamonds. The sapphire crystal case-back reveals the exquisite mechanical heart of these two models, perfectly suited to each case and featuring remarkable finishes.
The ultra-thin GP03300 self-winding movement with its 111/2’’’ diameter drives the 38mm model. Created in the Manufacture's workshops, the GP03300 caliber showcases Girard-Perregaux' long tradition of Haute Horlogerie and is a guarantee of the utmost reliability and accuracy. The mainplate and bridges are drawn, beveled, circular-grained and decorated with Côtes de Genève motifs. Containing 205 parts, it has a 46-hour power reserve with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. As for the 30mm ladies' model, it is powered by the GP03200 movement that is also self-winding - the classic Girard-Perregaux caliber GP03200, that sophisticated movement with its 10 ½ ’’’ diameter, a thickness of 3.20mm and a total of 185 component parts that houses an 18K pink gold oscillating weight engraved with an elegant "tapestry" of Girard-Perregaux logos.
Girard-Perregaux shows once again the timeless Haute Horlogerie character of the 1966 Collection and its capacity to constantly reinvent its long tradition with these two models, worn on an elegant black alligator strap with a pink gold pin buckle.

Girard-Perregaux 1966, 38 mm, Gent's
Reference: 49525-52-133-BB60

Case and dial
Pink Gold case
Diameter: 38.00 mm
Dial: « flinqué » silver dial, « baton-type » applied and painted hour markers
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)

Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-00030-OM5A
Mechanical, self-winding movement 
Diameter: 25.60 mm (111/2 ’’’)
Thickness: 3.20 mm
Frequency: 28’800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 27
Components: 205
Functions: hour, minute, central second and date

Strap
Black alligator leather strap with stitches
Pink gold pin buckle

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Lady, 30 mm
Reference: 49528D52A131-CB6A

Case & dial
Pink Gold case
Diameter: 30.00 mm
Dial: « flinqué » silver dial, « baton-type » applied and painted hour markers
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Setting on the bezel: 60 brilliant-cut diamonds ~0.55 cts

Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03200-0005
Mechanical, self-winding movement 
Diameter: 25.30 mm (101/2 ’’’)
Thickness: 3.20 mm
Frequency: 28’800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 42 hours
Jewels: 26
Components: 185
Functions: hour, minute

Strap
Black alligator leather strap with stitches
Pink gold pin buckle