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Sunday, May 31, 2015

Alexander Shorokhoff Heritage Collection

Introduced in 2003, the Alexander Shorokhoff Heritage Collection of haute horlogerie timepieces pays tribute to Great Russian masters and artists like Peter Tchaikovsky, Leo Tolstoi, Fedor Dostoevsky and Alexander Pushkin.

Heritage Collection - Peter Tchaikovsky
Introduced in 2003, the first series of Heritage Collection is a tribute to Peter Tchaikovsky, one of the most important composers of the 19th century. The overture to „Romeo and Juliet“was one of his first works to show the style he became famous for. It was well received by critics. Continuing to compose and visiting Bayreuth, he realised that his reputation as a composer has already surpassed the Russian borderlines. Nowadays, his works are among the most performed music pieces, especially for sophisticated collection of watches by Alexander are assembled from a multitude of tiny, artistically refined precious pieces. This is the birth of a unique objet d’art with long lasting value.
For this watch series to commemorate the Great Russian composer, Alexander Shorokhoff selected and developed a special watch movement. In order to obtain a fine and tender sound of the alarm function it was necessary to work out a complete revision of the Swiss calibre AS 1930. Due to a spring surrounding the movement, the alarm sounds much more fully. This innovation made it possible to give the watch a see-through glass back and to have a look at the refined watch movement in all its beauty.
The watches are engraved in a very imaginative way with the main plate being refined by a special “clouds’ polish”. After these steps, the bridges are gold or rhodium plated, the screws are blue-dyed. Another highlight of the watch is the complex case consisting of two parts. When pushing the button on the side near figure “2”, the inner case part can be lifted out. This construction makes it possible to observe the movement through the sapphire glass back without taking the watch from the wrist. It is a very practical way of using it as a travellers’ watch and to place it on the bedside table imitating a small alarm clock rather a wrist watch.

A further special feature of the watch are the two crowns, arranged close to the figures „11“ and „1“, countersunk in the recess of the case edge. This emphasises the curve of the case, while protecting the crowns from damage. The crowns’ surface is embossed with the logo „AS“. The crown close to “1” serves for setting the time, the crown close to “11” is used for setting the alarm.

Models
  • AS.PT1: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel, with opening function, can be placed on a table, Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,silver dial, genuine croco leather strap
  • AS.PT2: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel, with opening function, can be placed on a table, Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap
  • AS.PT5-GL: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel with gold bezel 18 ct., with opening function, can be placed on a table,Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,silver dial, genuine croco leather strap
  • AS.PT14: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel, with opening function, can be placed on a table,Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,guilloched silver dial,genuine croco leather strap
  • AS.PT9 “Swan Lake”: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws,double case of stainless steel, with opening function, can be placed on a table,Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.PT6-GL: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel with gold bezel 18 ct., with opening function, can be placed on a table,Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.PT14-D: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel with diamonds, with opening function, can be placed on a table,Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,guilloched silver dial,genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.PT15-GL: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel with gold bezel 18 ct., with opening function, can be placed on a table,Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance , guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.PT16-D: cal. 2612. AS hand winding alarm watch, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, double case of stainless steel with diamonds,  with opening function, can be placed on a table, Ø 40 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance ,guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.

Heritage Collection - Leo Tolstoi
The second watch of the series is dedicated to one of the most important writers of the 19th century, the count Leo Tolstoi.

From the cradle Leo Tolstoi were given all the right conditions for a beautiful and carefree life but in his early childhood the ups and downs of his life had already started. He was born as the child of a rich Russian family of aristocrats. He was still a little child, when his father and mother died. He was raised by a female relative, on an estate of his parents in the region of Tula. By the age of 14, the intelligent boy began to study oriental languages and law. However, some years later, he stopped these studies because they were quiet boring for him. Back at the home estates, he began to deal with social problems. In contrast to this work, he adopted the easy live of „laissez-faire“ of the aristocratic Muscovites losing a lot of money in gambling. Later on, during his military service he saw the other side of the easy world witnessing the brutality of the Caucasian and Crimea War which was shocking to him. This was one of the reasons for the subjects of his following novels – the permanent search of the sense of life. He was longing for a useful life and wishing to find his peace of mind. He wrote all intensive experiences and adventures in an obsessive manner. As a genius and great realist he succeeds to describe feelings and emotions of people with an unbelievable precision and down to the last detail. His novels made him not only a famous writer, but also a world-wide accepted philosopher.

Novels like War and peace or Anna Karenina have impressed whole generations, now as ever, and were adapted for the screens of international film productions, attracting a lot of people into the cinemas world-wide. It is Alexander’s strong wish to bow to this genius by creating a watch collection, having invested all his talents and skills as well as his greatest respect.
For the Leo Tolstoi watch collection, Alexander Shorokhoff has selected the movement cal. 3133. It was developed by the Russian watch industry and is similar to the well-known movement Valjoux 7734. The movement 3133 is made in Russia which is then dismantled, revised, hand engraved, refined and assembled by Alexander Shorokhoff watch factory. Whether skeletonizing, guilloching or engraving, all these working steps for the watch components are required the highest concentration, patience and precision. It takes many hours, sometimes even days for the engraver to work the cold steel parts into movements with “soul”, transforming each watch model into a unique piece.
Thus, the love for each detail, the excellent hand engravings and the perfect work of the watchmakers ensure the creation of a mechanical piece of high reliability and esthetical beauty, combining harmonically Russian soul and German quality.

The cases of the Tolstoi watch collection are created in a classical style and shaped in graduated well-rounded form allowing the height of the watch to be optically minimised. Each case consists of three parts: screw-type bezel, middle part and screw-type sapphire glass back. The well rounded, finely worked out pushers and the relative flat winding crown complete the timeless elegant design of this watch. Diamonds can be set either on the steel or on the gold bezel. This work is made under the microscope by high qualified master jewellers. Only of best quality diamonds are used for Alexander Shorokhoff watches.

Models
  • AS.LT4DN-RGG: cal. 31681. AS, mechanical chronograph, with display of day and night time, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., rosé gold case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT3-DN: cal. 31681. AS, mechanical chronograph, with display of day and night time , hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,5 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT4DN-RGG-D: cal. 31681. AS, mechanical chronograph, with display of day and night time, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., rosé gold case with diamonds, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial,genuine croco leather strap
  • AS.LT4-RGGD: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., rosé gold case with diamonds, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT1: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,5 atm water resistance, silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT2: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,5 atm water resistance, brown dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT4M: cal. 31679. AS, mechanical chronograph, with moon-phases-display, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 5 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT6M: cal. 31679. AS, mechanical chronograph, with moon-phases-display, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated,blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 5 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT5M-RGG-D: cal. 31679. AS, mechanical chronograph, with moon-phases-display, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws,18 ct., rosé gold case with diamonds, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT1M: cal. 31679. AS, mechanical chronograph, with moon-phases-display, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 5 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT2M: cal. 31679. AS, mechanical chronograph, with moon-phases-display, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 5 atm water resistance, guilloched grey dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.LT1M-D: cal. 31679. AS, mechanical chronograph, with moon-phases-display, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case with diamonds, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,5 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.

As result of the exceptional mastery of the engravers, these chronographs present themselves a new dimension of engraving and skeletonizing. One of the models has a dial in 3-D, another shows a fine hand skeletonised dial and movement. When working out the 3-D-engraving, the main material is taken off from the dial and the remaining parts of the dial are decorated in the tradition of Russian ornamentation of the last century.
Through two gaps near „3“ and „9“ can be seen the hand skeletonised and engraved parts of the chrono movement and the calendar disc. It was decided to work out the skeletonised model with a Russian ornamental pattern, too. This decision helped to prevent removing too much material from the dials and movement, to emphasise the floral design and to give the watch more soul.

  • AS.LTS3-GL: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, skeletonised, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case with 18 ct., rosé gold bezel, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,5 atm water resistance, skeletonised, rhodium plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.LTS1-RGG-D: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, skeletonised, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., rosé gold case with diamonds, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, skeletonised, rosé gold plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.LTS2-WGG: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, skeletonised, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., white gold case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, skeletonised, rhodium plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.LT3D: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,5 atm water resistance, 3D-hand engraved, rhodium plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.LT3D-RGG: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., rosé gold case, Ø 41,5 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, 3D-hand engraved, rhodium plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.LT3D-WGG: cal. 3133. AS, mechanical chronograph, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct., white gold case, Ø 41,5 mm,sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, 3D-hand engraved, rosé gold plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.

Heritage Collection - Fedor Dostoevsky
The genius Russian writer and philosopher Fedor Dostoevsky cannot be missing in the collection of „Great Russian Masters“ by „Alexander Shorokhoff“. The unusual roulette-design of this model was created by Alexander Shorokhov, in 2005. This watch remembers the gambling passion and the exciting life of Dostoevsky.

Fedor Dostoevsky is regarded by critical feature writers as the most important and best known psychologist in the world literature of the 19 century. The history of his life is a dramatic succession of ups and downs. His childhood and youth was spent in a family of aristocrats in   Moscow. After the death of his mother, he was sent to St. Petersburg where he attended the University for civil engineering. During his studies, he was already writing his first novel „Poor people“which suddenly made him famous. He joined a socio-critical group of young intellectuals dealing with literary but also political themes. At this time, a group called “Petrashevsky Circle” was in a certain sense subversive. Dostoevsky was arrested and sentenced to death for his work and involvement in this circle. The act of grace reached him, when the execution commando had already taken an aim at him. Two days later, he was exiled to the fortress Omsk, where he was spending the next years under the worst circumstances.

After his release, the Russian police was permanently spying on him. Nevertheless, he founded the magazine „The Time“, which was immediately censored, and eventually denied for its critical subject matter. This forced him to travel abroad. His restless way led him via Milan, Florence, Dresden and Prague finally back to St. Petersburg where he was working as an editor for a conservative magazine. Meanwhile, his life has not more been influenced by existential anxiety. However, his epilepsy was causing him no end of trouble. He had to go to a health resort in Germany. It is during this time, he is mentioned in one breath by the famous Tolstoi. Once he was asked to make a speech at the opening ceremony of a „Pushkin“ statue. The audience was listening enthusiastically. Dostoevsky enjoyed this performance and continued reading, but like it happened often in his life, the up was following by the next down. A conflict with his sister about the family inheritance wore him down and he died in 1881. Despite of all bad blows Dostoevsky created great world literature like the novels „The Brothers Karamazov“, „The Gambler“, „The Idiot“ and others. Alexander would like to erect a very personal monument to him through the „Dostoevsky“- watch collection.
For this watch collection, Alexander Shorokhoff has used two different watch movements – the hand winding calibre 3105 AS and the automatic movement cal. 9060 Soprod. Both movements are dismantled and revised by „Alexander-Shorokhoff“watch factory. The bridges are engraved, the wheels are polished or guilloched, and the screws are blue-dyed. At last, all components are carefully re-assembled.
When developing the design, Alexander was inspired above all by the gambling passion and the unusual life of this great philosopher and writer. All models of this series feature modern yet classical cases with softly rounded off edges. Near the „12“ a flexible band connector is mounted at the upper side of the case in perfect shape, reminiscent of the 19th century style, serving to fix the croco leather strap. At this place was also arranged the winding crown, completing the harmonic and symmetric overall picture of this watch. The design of the dials is dedicated to the themes of the writer’s novels.
The hand winding model was created with a dial representing roulette with 36 figures and the green “zero” in the middle. The automatic watch features the gamble „Black Jack“ and with the four corners engraved with the symbols of the four suits – spades, diamonds, hearts and clubs while the display of power reserve shows the result of the card playing.

Models
  • AS.FD1: cal. 3105. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD3: cal. 3105. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, beige dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD2: cal. 3105. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, black dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD11: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD13: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic,  hand engraved,  blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched brown dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD12: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD21: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD23: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD22: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.

The „Dostoevsky“watch family also offers chronograph models. The case has the same harmonic shape as the other models with hand winding movements. Only the lugs are separately manufactured and then attached to the inside of the watch case. This facilitates brushing and polishing of the middle case parts.
Thanks to a well-thought-out lever construction the pushers could be arranged on the case in a vertical position. The roulette ring on the case back and the dial are meant to remind of the vile human craving for gamble, which Dostoevsky has portrayed and treated in a profound philosophical manner in his novels.

  • AS.FD41: cal. 7750. ETA automatic chronograph, hand engraved rotor, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD43: cal. 7750. ETA automatic chronograph, hand engraved rotor, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD42: cal. 7750. ETA automatic chronograph, hand engraved rotor, stainless steel case,  43 x 43 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD31: cal. 31681 AS, mechanical chronograph, with display of day and night time, hand engraved gold or rhodium plated,  blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD33: cal. 31681 AS, mechanical chronograph,  with display of day and night time, hand engraved gold or rhodium plated,  blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather strap.
  • AS.FD32: cal. 31681 AS, mechanical chronograph, with display of day and night time, hand engraved gold or rhodium plated,  blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather strap.

Specifically for watch connoisseurs, Alexander Shorokhov has created two top skeleton models in this series. One presents itself with a completely skeletonised hand-winding movement, while the other watch is provided with a three-dimensional automatic movement. It takes the engraver up to ten days to craft the finely outlined, skeleton-like parts and engravings.  Not only the movements, but also the dials are decorated in a wonderful, aesthetically evolved fashion. The dial of the hand winding model is finely skeletonised with the automatic model being shaped three dimensionally by stylus. The edition of these unique watches is limited to only 25 pieces of each model.

  • AS.FD.S1: cal. 3105. AS, hand winding, skeletonised, hand engraved,  gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel,  43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, skeletonised rosé gold plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.FD.S2: cal. 3105. AS, hand winding, skeletonised, hand engraved,  gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, skeletonised rhodium plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.FD.D1A: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, 3D-hand engraved rosé gold plated dial,, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.FD.D2A: cal. 9060. Soprod automatic, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated,blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 43 x 43 mm, crown opposite 12 o’clock, flexible strap connection on 12 o’clock, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, 3D-hand engraved rhodium plated dial, genuine croco leather strap, limited to 25 pieces.

Heritage Collection - Alexander Pushkin
His father descended from one of the ancient Russian noble dynasties. His mother was the granddaughter of an Eritrean from East Africa, who was living at the court of tsar Peter the Great. Evidently, the little Sasha inherited the best of both continents and cultures. In an instant, he was able to connect in his novels ease with profundity. Pushkin’s parents were regularly visited by the best-known poets of the time. Already as a child, at Pushkin’s disposal was an extensive library. In spite of his elitist privileges he always remained a very modest and people-oriented man. He listened to his nurse tell him folk tales and aphorisms and sing him songs of the Russian people.

As a young man, Pushkin attended a lyceum in the Tsars Village, which nowadays bears his name. After having published his first poems and his examination, he became member of the Council for Foreign Affairs. As a free thinker he was writing besides a large series of poems, political scandalous epigrams too. Consequently, he was punished and transferred to Youth Russia.

From there he was travelling around the country. During his journeys, he picked up the subjects for his literary work. In the same easily and brilliantly manner he was writing about the life of the aristocrats as well as about the troubles of the poor people. In his novels and poems he presents himself as a passionate writer dealing with mockery and self-irony about the eternal questions of life.

One and a half century ago, he succeeded to express his thoughts so clearly and passionately that his works are fascinating modern people to this date. His death came as spectacularly as was his life. In order to save the honour of his wife, Pushkin was fighting a duel against the Frenchman d‘ Anthès, guardsman of the Tsar. He was as a result wounded and died of his injuries. The 2009 inauguration of the monument of Pushkin in capital of Eritrea, Asmara was very proud moment for all Eritreans and Africans which further demonstrated his strong effect on the people of the region and the legacy he left behind. For Alexander Shorokhov he stays forever alive. The beauty of his words and the clearness of his thoughts were inspiring Alexander Shorokhov to translate these qualities into a brand new watch collection.
The first ladies collection by Alexander is dedicated to Alexander Pushkin. This is not by accident. Pushkin was a genius word master and could deeply affect people with a few words, what made him to the most loved poet of the society and women in particular. The filigree skeletonizing of the movement, the handmade engravings, the fine guilloching of the dial and the masterly set diamonds at the bezel and the inner dial ring transmit a feeling of feminine tenderness and perfect form like in Pushkin’s poetry.

The back side of this watch is decorated with an elegant hand engraved outer ring. This ring can be decorated with the name of the watch owner, giving the watch a personal touch. The watch is limited to 25 pieces. Anyway, all „Alexander Pushkin“- watch models feature elegant dials in a modern yet classical style. They are equipped with hand engraved or automatic movements, sapphire glass on both sides and also a ring to create a manual engraving on the case back.

Models
  • AS.AP3S-RGGD: cal. 2014. AS, hand winding, skeletonised, hand engraved, gold or rhodium plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct. rosé gold case with diamonds, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial with diamonds, genuine croco leather or satin strap, limited to 25 pieces.
  • AS.AP: cal. 2014. AS, hand winding,  hand engraved, gold plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP1-RGG: cal. 2014. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold plated,blue-dyed screws, 18 ct. rosé gold case, 36 x 36 mm,sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP1-RGGD: cal. 2014. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold plated, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct. rosé gold case with diamonds, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP2: cal. 2014. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP3: cal. 2014. AS, hand winding, hand engraved, gold plated, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP10: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP10-RGG: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct. rosé gold case, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP10-RGGD: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct. rosé gold case with diamonds, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP20: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP20D: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case with diamonds, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched black dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP30: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved,  blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case,  36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.
  • AS.AP30D: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case with diamonds, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, guilloched beige dial, genuine croco leather or satin strap.

Another new creation is an automatic watch featuring an enamelled dial. The poet Alexander Pushkin was fond of fairy tales since his childhood and heard them often from his grandma. Later he wrote a great number of suspenseful and poetic fairy tales. The motif gracing the enamelled dial of this watch was chosen accordingly: a frog, often occurring in fairy tales as central figure and later transforming into a beautiful prince or princess. The watch has a Swiss automatic movement 2000-1.ETA. A hand engraved silver or gold element on the rotor lends this watch a more romantic appearance. The frog dial is also available as guilloched version.
  •  AS.AP.F5D: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case with diamonds, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, hand enamelled green dial, genuine frog leather strap.
  • AS.AP.F6D: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, stainless steel case with diamonds,36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides,3 atm water resistance, hand enamelled turquoise dial, genuine frog leather strap.
  • AS.AP.F1 RGG: cal. 2000-1. ETA, automatic, hand engraved, blue-dyed screws, 18 ct. rosé gold case, 36 x 36 mm, sapphire glass on both sides, 3 atm water resistance, guilloched silver dial with frog apply, genuine croco leather or satin strap.

Customised Watches
On request, Alexander Shorokhoff can create the design of a skeleton watch featuring your initials on the dial. This work requires a special skill by the engraver, steady hands and of course, a great deal of time and patience. On average around three months is required to design this type of watch, to skeletonise the dial and the movement, to engrave and refine it’s parts, finally to assemble all parts and perform a trial run.
These exclusive watches can be passed on from generation to generation and become a precious family heirloom. Another occasion for requesting such a unique watch creation which can be made in steel, silver, gold or platinum, is to present as extraordinary gift to friends, relatives or colleagues. It is suitable for a wedding gift, to celebrate an anniversary or other important milestones in someone’s life. Production 1 of 1 will be engraved on the case edge and confirms that this watch model is the only one in the world.

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition

Since last year, Zenith has been handling the official timekeeping of five of the prestigious races organised by Peter Auto: the Vallelunga-Classic on the Autodromo Piero Taruffi in Italy (March 28-29), the Spa-Classic on the Belgian Spa-Francorchamps track (May 22-24), the Grand Prix de l’Age d’Or on the Dijon-Prenois track (June 5-8), the Monza Historic in Italy (July 10-12), and the Dix Mille Tours du Castellet on the Paul Ricard track, also in France (October 2-4). While competitors can experience the races at their own pace, each of them is an authentic sporting trial in which around 300 competing cars representing the history of motor racing vie with each other at the best European venues such as Spa-Francorchamps, considered by many drivers to be the world’s finest track.

On January 10, 1969, Zenith introduced its worldwide launch of an integrated automatic chronograph. Born of a simple idea that required seven years to develop, the El Primero movement was a double world first. It was the first to feature a chronograph that was not of the add-on modular type; and it was also the world’s most precise movement with a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour ensuring tenth-of-a-second precision. The aptly named movement quickly became a legend in modern haute horlogerie, since alongside its exceptional intrinsic qualities, it displays exceptional resistance to extreme conditions.

An exceptional movement in every way, El Primero features two other technical characteristics that were particularly impressive at the time. Its design is based on a column wheel, the ultimate component of the extremely high-quality chronographs invented in the 19th  century: it interprets the pressure exercised on the push-piece to handle the chronograph start, stop and reset functions.

Composed of a ratchet-wheel with several triangular-shaped teeth called columns, the column wheel is machined from a block of steel whose hardness makes it particularly resistant to repeated handling. The second major characteristic of the original movement is its lubrication. Given the high frequency of the balance-wheel oscillations, the escapement oils tend to be centrifuged to the point of disturbing the smooth running of the mechanism, which is why the movement is given a dry lubrication.

While it has always equipped Zenith timepieces, and not only those of the El Primero line, it has constantly evolved over the years to welcome complications and avant-garde mechanisms that have earned it a number of awards. To mark the brand’s 150 th anniversary, and as part of a constant quest for excellence, all the El Primero calibres intended for the Open or tourbillon models will notably be chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). The oscillating weight of these movements will be engraved with the inscription “Certified Chronometer”.

In 2003, Zenith launched an idea: why not make the beating heart of the watch – its regulating organ – clearly visible? This thought sparked the development of a new concept christened Open. The teams of watchmakers and movement developers had to entirely rethink the calibre’s construction. After several months of research, the balance-wheel and balance-spring were shifted to the periphery and revealed through what would become one of the signatures of the El Primero line: an 11 o’clock dial opening which, in the case of the Tour Auto Edition, is a nod to the impressive view of a racing car mechanism when its hood is up.
The automatic El Primero 4061 chronograph movement powering the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition is equipped with a lever and escape-wheel made of an avant-garde material serving to eliminate any lubrication-related issues: silicon. Both harder and lighter than steel, it is also more resistant to wear and less energy-hungry due to its low friction coefficient, as well as being anti-magnetic.
A direct heir to the model that revolutionised watchmaking more than 40 years ago, the Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition naturally borrows its key characteristics while adding a sporty touch. Through its design that immediately brings to mind the spirit of competition and the world of classic cars, the Open dial features a specific treatment. The rhodium-plated surface is brushed in the 6 – 12 o’clock direction to ensure consistency with its lines. The subtly arranged colours also play an important role: the blue-white-red stripes are of course a nod to the colours of the French flag. The opaline silver-toned tachymetric scale makes a striking contrast with the inner blue ring and its white graduations, while the 300 divisions displaying units of measurement all the way down to the fifth-of-a-second chronograph times are indicated on red and blue transfers. The hollowed and snailed 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o’clock are surrounded by a blue circular satin-brushed rim. Like all chronograph models in the line (apart from ladies’ watches), the central sweep-seconds hand is fitted with a star-shaped counterpoise. The one on this model, along with the counter hands, is red to enhance the legibility of the chronograph times. To ensure smooth overall aesthetic consistency, the small-seconds trident appearing through the “Open” window at 9 o’clock is composed of blue-white-red colours. Another signature feature of El Primero models, the slim bezel ensures a generous diameter for the dial and its slightly convex box-style sapphire crystal provides side lighting for the dial and thus ensures optimal readability.
One particular detail that connoisseurs are sure to note: the mushroom-type push-pieces for the chronograph functions each feature a coloured groove: blue for the chronograph start, red for the reset. The brushed lugs and case middle give the watch a suitable sporty look. Fitted with a triple folding clasp, the strap is a nod to the gloves formerly worn by the drivers of classic cars: perforated blue calfskin with a black protective rubber lining immediately creates the association with sports cars and speed, complete with blue-white-red stripes extending those on the dial.
The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Auto Edition is issued in a 500-piece special limited edition. The back of the steel case bears two inscriptions in particular: the Tour Auto logo (on the sapphire crystal pane) and the serial number. The special presentation box is fitted with a cover bearing the Tour Auto logo, and a blue interior as a reminder of the dominant colour of the watch.

Technical details
Model: El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition
Automatic Column-Wheel Chronograph - Tribute to Classic Cars in Partnership with Peter Auto
500-Piece Limited Edition

Movement
El Primero 4061, automatic
Calibre: 13 1/4 ‘’’ (diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 6.60 mm
Components: 282
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève

Functions
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Two-counter chronograph:
- Central sweep-seconds hand
- 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
- 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Tachymetric scale

Case, dial and hands
Material: brushed steel case
Diameter: 42 mm
Dial-opening diameter: 37.10 mm
Thickness: 14.05 mm
Glass: cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal engraved with the Tour Auto logo
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: brushed rhodium-plated
Hour-markers: rhodium-plated, facetted and filled with Superluminova SLN C1
Hands: rhodium-plated, facetted and filled with Superluminova SLN C1

Strap and buckle
Blue calfskin with protective black rubber lining and steel triple-blade folding clasp

Sinn U212 SE Diving Watch

The U212 SE with a diameter of 47 mm is the biggest Sinn diving watch to date. The interplay between the high quality Black Hard Coating and the ivory-coloured coating for indices, hands and numerals is truly striking. While the colouring is in a vintage style, the features of the U212 S E are absolutely state of the art. For example, the case and crown are made of high strength sea water resistant German submarine steel, which makes the watch suitable for saltwater diving. The U212 SE also features a captive diver’s bezel and Ar-Dehumidifying Technology for greater functional reliability and freedom from fogging. 300 U212 S E watches are being produced, each with an engraved limited-edition number.
Technical details
Case
Case made of German Submarine Steel, black
Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective
Case back screw-fastened
Crown screwable
Meet the technical requirements for water proofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 100 bar, certified by DNV GL
According to the technical demands for the diving norm DIN 8306
Tested based on European diving equipment standards EN 250 / EN14143 and certified by DNV GL
Low pressure resistant

Movement
SW 300-1
Self-winding mechanism
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Date display
Bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENT Technology basis
Captive bezel
Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
Crown with D3-System

Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter: 47 mm
Band lug width: 24 mm
Case thickness: 14.5 mm
Weight without strap: 135 gram

Dial and Hands
Matte black dial
Hands and indices coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
3 years

Edition
Limited edition to 300 units

Sinn 203 Diving Watch Anniversary Limited edition

This limited edition diving watch was launched in 2006 to celebrate the 45th anniversary of the company. The years 1961-2006 and the dial underscore the value of the diving watch. It is tastefully electroplated in a special charcoal grey colour - a complex but rewarding process, as it produces a deep, silky matte gleam and outstanding colour fastness.  The robust case is made of titanium. The appeal of this metal lies in its light weight and low thermal conductivity, which make it comfortable to wear. Moreover, it is non-allergenic. It is also an extremely precise timepiece thanks to the Valjoux 7750 movement with automatic winding. Functional robustness und reliability are indispensable for underwater sports or professional activities and are crucial to health and life. The 203 anniversary diving watch comes in a case with a brown Russian leather strap, strap changing tool, spring bars and an operating manual.
Technical details
Edition
Limited edition to 450 units

Movement
Valjoux 7750 Self-winding mechanism
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308 
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
Case made of titanium, bead-blasted
Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on the interior
Case back: screw-fastened
Crown: screw in
Push-pieces: screw in
Water-resistant as per DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 30 bar (= 300 m water depth)
Low pressure resistant 

Functions
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Date display
Day of the week display
Chronograph
Diver’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging

Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter: 41 mm
Band lug width: 20 mm 
Case thickness: 16 mm
Weight without strap: 68 gram

Dial and Hands
Matte charcoal grey electroplated dial
Indices coated with luminescent colour
Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
3 years

Sinn 203 ARKTIS Chronograph Diving Watch

The 203 ARKTIS Chronograph is Sinn’s first diving watch to feature Temperature Resistance Technology. This means that it is guaranteed to run and function reliably even at exceptionally low temperatures.  This watch passed its Arctic endurance test on the wrist of extreme diver Mario M. Weidner. The 203 ARKTIS survived not only all the dives in the icy water of the Arctic Ocean, also sessions in the sauna onboard of the research vessel. However, the true test of the watch's quality lay in coping with the extreme temperature fluctuations between those found in the water (freezing point) and those on land (up to –25 °C) which represents a real challenge for a watch worn outside a thermal diving suit. Each individual piece the diving watch 203 ARKTIS undergoes function testing by Sinn at a temperature range between –45°C and +80°C, which is very unusual for mechanical watches.
Technical details
Movement
Valjoux 7750 Self-winding mechanism
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
Case made of stainless steel, polished Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
Case back screw-fastened
Crown screwable
Push-pieces screwable
Water-resistant as per DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 30 bar (= 300 m water depth), 20 bar with transparent case back
Low pressure resistant 

Functions
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Date display
Day of the week display
Chronograph
Diver’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
Temperature resistance technology, therefore functionally reliable at temperatures from -45 °C up to +80°C

Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter: 41 mm
Band lug width: 20 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Weight without strap: 90 gramme

Dial and Hands
Blue electroplated dial 
Indices coated with luminescent colour 
Hour, minute and second hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
2 years

Alexander Shorokhoff Watch Manufacturer - Introduction and History

Established in Germany, the Alexander Shorokhoff watch manufacturer is a company of which you can find only a few in this business line in the world. Alexander Shorokhov is the head of this manufacturer by giving it his name, being its founder, chief executive officer and creative director. All watch models which have been produced by the watchmakers and engravers of the manufacturer mostly by manual work are based on his drawings.

Alexander Shorokhov
Alexander was a scion of a prosperous family in Moscow with interest in art, literature and music which he had already developed in his early youth. He also had a keen interest in anything mechanical and architecture. No wonder then he enrolled at the age of 18 at Moscow University in the faculty of engineering. Immediately after his final examination, he started working for a construction company moving quickly up the ladder from a foreman to a director which he followed by a brief political career as people’s representative in Moscow which gave him the necessary experience in politics. Due to his good performance he was one of the few to be selected by Michael Gorbatchov alongside other young and talented Russian managers to be sent to Germany in order to become acquainted with the free market – in the sense of “Glasnost” and “Perestroika”. It was long before he found his way and established a watch sales company in order to commercialise the best Russian watch brand in Western Europe. Success was quick and sweet while his company in Germany became a world-wide trading enterprise. Sale of representing the old and established Russian watch brands was just a beginning as in 2003, he created his own watch brand using his name which was his all time dream to be able to produce his own watches implying entirely his cultural roots as well as his passion for precision, aesthetics and exclusiveness. The result of his efforts is watches which have no equals in rare faction and ambition. Nowadays, passionate discussion within high-class circles of watch connoisseurs is unthinkable without his watches.

From the foundation until now, Alexander Shorokhoff has been producing mechanical timekeepers enthusing watch lovers all over the world. The well styled dials as well as the artificially refined and dreamlike handmade watch movements were and are unique in the world. In order to achieve such results, our highly qualified watch makers, gifted engravers and designers take great care at every stage of manufacturing process while exercising a great deal of patience. It is revised thoroughly by hand, the bridges are engraved and chiselled, the dials are guilloched, the wheels and levers finely polished, the surfaces are plated and the screws are blue-dyed. Only after all this refining work, the components are carefully assembled again. Alexander Shorokhov is setting great standard not only by the esthetical appearance, but also by the quality of the material and the accuracy of his watches.

Chronology
1991: Alexander Shorokhov was part of a group of 20 young, talented graduates chosen by then president of the Soviet Union, Michail Gorbatchov, and sent to Germany in order to broaden knowledge of the free market. The young managers were instructed by the ministry of economic affairs of Hessen, the Chamber of Commerce in Frankfurt and other companies like Mercedes, Siemens, the railway Deutsche Bahn AG. They learned and gathered experience in these firms. After this studies, Shorokhov‘s passion for architecture, mechanics and esthetical design led him to the art of high end watchmaking.

1992: Alexander Shorokhov gained a foothold in Western Europe and Russia. The Russian industry presented him several offers for working. He selected the First Moscow Watch Factory and established an international sale service in West Europe distributing watches of the Russian brand Poljot. For this propose, he founded the Poljot-V GmbH in September 1992 in Frankfurt, and after a short time he succeeded to extend it to other countries world-wide. In that year, the young company of Alexander Shorokhov became member of the German Association of Watch Industry in order to be better acquainted with the country, its industries, technologies and conditions. Regardless of several changes in the structure, responsibility and staff of this association - the “Alexander Shorokhoff Watch Manufacturer” remained true to its principles, for all the following years.

1993: The first presentation of Poljot watches at an international watch exhibition “INHORGENTA” in Munich caused a stir in Germany. Among the multitude of Swiss made watches, the Russian watches of the “Poljot-V GmbH” drew the attention of the visitors. Shorokhov’s decision to make a name for this brand in Germany was right and giving him the possibility to go on a risky way of distribution – only through German jewellers and specialised watch shops. Step by step, Alexander Shorokhov succeeded in gaining more than 100 shops, during the first year of distribution.

1994: Inspired from the success of sale of Poljot watches, Alexander Shorokhov decided to produce mechanical watches under his own brand based on his own standard for workmanship, quality and design. Together with a new team of specialised watchmakers he opened a little workshop, developing in that time his talent for creating design; and launched his own collection on the market, under the name Poljot-International. Basilika was the name of the first model of the new brand; later the same designation given to his second own watch brand.

1996: For the first time, Alexander Shorokhov presented his collection at the International Watch Exhibition in Basel. A. Shorokhov extended the circle of distributors of his watches again. He increased his sales staff, and employed new watch makers, too. He directed his attention mainly to the quality of his watches inventing a special quality system - from assembling until final control.

1997: Launched the golden chronograph „Nicolai-II“, which comprises the whole obsession of the AS-watch manufacturer. This model is equipped with a re-worked, optimised movement. The lovely decorated watch dial shows a little tsars crown with a tiny ruby jewel. This watch was dedicated to the last Russian tsar „Nicolai-II“and immediately, became one of the most exclusive collector’s items. These gold watches by Alexander Shorokhov were gaining great popularity especially in Russia and the USA. Consequently, the distribution net of the “Poljot-International” watches was extended, in that year, to Russia and the USA.

1998: Alexander Shorokhov celebrated 850th anniversary of Moscow by creating a special jubilee edition golden ladies watch. This exclusive model is decorated with 211 hand set diamonds and 7 sapphires. At a watch exhibition in Vienna, this high valued objet d’art was elected in the category of elegant ladies watches as one of the best watches of the year. While creating this watch and trying to keep the quality of diamond setting at the highest level, Alexander Shorokhov begins a co-operation with an experienced master of jewellery and diamond setting in Antwerp, Mr. Alexandre Sidorov, who has also founded his own specialised school.

1999: Alexander Shorokhov developed the”Millennium-watch” for the Russian Church. One of these watches was handled out to the Russian Patriarch Alexey II by Alexander Shorokhov himself, during a solemn ceremony in Russia. This was the first time of realisation of Shorokhov’s idea to create watches on special occasions and jubilees and for special personalities. In that year, the watch distribution was extended to Asia. The company gets new strong business partners in Hong Kong, Singapore and sometimes later, also in Japan. In that year, especially the watch model “Kirovskie“, representing a replica of a very big (43,0 mm) watch model of the forties with “antique” cramps for strap fixation and a dial in this old style, was going down well at the market. The watch movement of the “Kirovskie“ has been decorated by a special “clouds polishing“and blue-dyed screws.

2000: For the 70th birthday of Michail Gorbatchov, Alexander Shorokhov created a jubilee watch in limited edition. The fine guilloched dial with the Russian and the Soviet flags is symbolising the transformation of the USSR into the Russian Federation. With this watch the company and its watch brand have shown their respect for this big turn in the history of Russia. Later, the watch “Gorbatchov“has been given as a present by Alexander Shorokhov also to members of the government of different other countries. In that year, a lot of exclusive “Poljot-International” watch models were launched at the market: “Tsars of Russia“, “Gagarin-2000“, “Simple Round“, “Maxim“ and others. The quality of the watches is very appreciated by the distributors and watch collectors; the new system of quality control is working smoothly. The watch return rate is about 3%.

2001: The success demands tribute: the departments of assembling, after-sales service and sale had to be modernised and enlarged. For that purpose, Alexander Shorokhov and his team are moving to a new more spacious domicile. The picturesque Alzenau, a little 600 years old town in the neighbourhood of lakes and forest, near the city of Frankfurt, becomes the new home town of Alexander Shorokhov. The company received generous support on the part of the town mayor, Mr. Walter Scharwies. Here in Alzenau, was born the idea to introduce a new high valued watch brand. It started with the preparation of the documents for the national and international registration of the brand Alexander Shorokhoff.

2002: The brand „Alexander Shorokhoff“was enrolled in register of the “Office of intellectual property” and patented. The successful sale of the middle-price level-collection “Poljot-International“ were reassuring and confirming Alexander Shorokhov to put his visions of perfection, high precision mechanics and typical design into practice. He employed high qualified engravers in order to “conquer” together with his team the market of the premium watches putting their heart, soul and creativity in this work. First he had the plan to continue the rich craftsman’s tradition of Russia inherent in the creations of Fabergé and Gabu or in the elitist products by Smirnoff and Davidoff; but his watches “Alexander Shorokhoff” should be also dedicated to such great Russian masters and artists like Peter Tchaikovsky, Leo Tolstoi or Fedor Dostoevsky.

2003: Peter Tchaikovsky and his music fascinate and impress a lot of people world-wide. This fact inspired Alexander Shorokhov to create the first watch of the “Heritage” collection under the name of “Peter Tchaikovsky“. For these watches, all the treatments of the watch movements like engraving, guilloching or skeletonizing are handmade with highest concentration, accuracy and professionalism by the watchmakers and engravers of the ASUM. The main plate gets a special “cloud polishing”, the bridges are gold or rhodium plated, the screws are blue-dyed. The movements are very carefully finished step by step assembled and adjusted. In that year, the AS watches was presented, for the first time, at the international watch fair “Baselworld” where they have won a lot of laurels by the specialists and watch collectors. The watch model “Moscow Nights“ by “Poljot-International“ is placed ninth in the competition „Goldene Unruh“ of the specialised magazine “Uhrenmagazin” in the price category until 500,- EUR.

2004: The second watch of the series „Heritage“Alexander Shorokhov has dedicated to one of the most important writers of the 19th century, the count Leo Tolstoi. The novels by Tolstoi are classic and the dedicated to him watches have been made in the same classical style. The watch cases have got a traditional, round and graduated shape. A reliable and wonderful looking mechanical movement, unifying Russian soul with German quality to a harmonic overall picture – this was the result of working with love for details and perfection and creating excellent manual engravings.

2005: The genius Russian writer and philosopher Fedor Dostoevsky cannot be missing in the collection of „Great Russian Masters“ by „Alexander Shorokhoff“. The unusual roulette-design of this model was created by Alexander Shorokhov, in 2005. This watch remembers the gambling passion and the exciting life of Dostoevsky.

2006: The art of engraving has achieved a high level at the ASUM. There have been created completely skeletonised top watch models for special watch lovers. It takes an engraver about 10 days to complete the skeletonizing or engraving of such a particular watch. To skeletonise the whole movement means creating a new one and a new dial, too. The hand winding watches of this line are characterised by their esthetical appearance and filigree skeletonizing. In that year, the “Tchaikovsky“ watch „Swan Lake“ became a real museum exhibit. The museum is located in the town of Klin, near Moscow. Here was Peter Tchaikovsky’s domicile. In 2006, Alexander Shorokhov handled out to the director of the local museum one of his “Tchaikovsky“watches.

2008: Kostya Tszyu, a Russian sportsman living in Australia and several times world champion in half welterweight, is very popular and this not only because of its good performances in sports but also his likeable and modest behaviour. Alexander Shorokhov honoured this great boxer by a personal watch bearing his name.

2009: Alexej Leonov was the first man of the world leaving his space ship and floating in the open space. He was the commander of the rocket Voshod and leader of the Russian-American mission Soyuz-Apollo-Mission. Alexander Shorokhov and Alexej Leonov met each other for the first time in 2007, in Moscow, and liked each other instantly. The result of this meeting was an exceptional watch named Soyuz-Apollo. This watch was produced in limited edition of 500 pieces and was sold out, after a very short time.

2010: The beautiful town of Alzenau with its green environs in the neighbourhood of Frankfurt became the new home town of Alexander Shorokhov. On the occasion of the 610th anniversary of the town, he created a high-valued watch “Alzenau“ in limited edition impressing his gratitude for the friendly welcome.

2011: The watches of the traditional “Heritage-collection“belong without any doubt to the most exclusive watches of the premium class. Alexander Shorokhov launched Avantgarde-collection targeted to a younger and wider customer range – however, without giving up his philosophy of handcrafted obsessions. Every watch of the Avantgarde collection is a unique piece with a striking particular design and a mechanical movement of high precision and refined by meticulously craftsmanship. The watches with the most striking, avant-garde design, like the models Miss Avantgarde or Watch Dandy have already caused a large attention of the press, the specialists and the watch lovers. The German chess master, Niclas Huschenbeth was selected as ambassador of the new Avantgarde watch line.

2012: Alexander Shorokhov manufacturer celebrated 20th anniversary and on this occasion, a new attractive jubilee watch model „Stripes“in limited edition and with double time display created.

Contact details
Alexander Shorokhoff Uhrenmanufaktur
Hanauer Str. 25
63755 Alzenau
Germany
www.alexander-shorokhoff.de


Friday, May 29, 2015

Zenith STAR 33 MM Edition 2015

This year, the ultra feminine Star line from Zenith welcomes three new and original 33 mm models radiating an undeniably seductive appeal. Like the 2014 models, the three new versions of the Star 33 mm – one for daytime wear, another for evenings and a third for gala nights – are endowed with the charm of watches capable of combining seductive appeal with horological excellence. While the shape of their case is now entirely classic, the design of the Star 33 mm stands out this year for its creativity as well as for its spectacular simplicity.

The first model offers a horological interpretation of the Japanese paper folding technique known as origami, after which the watch is named. Like a sheet of paper that has been cleverly folded and then unfolded, the dial is designed in three dimensions to demonstrate the effect of this delicate art. The design is offset to 9 o’clock so as to create a visual surprise by making the small seconds the focus of attention, albeit in a charmingly discreet way. Four brilliant-cut diamonds serving as hour-markers punctuate the passing hours for this delightfully fresh watch that is proving extremely successful.

The second version adorns the wrist with a spring-like touch lent by its dial that has been given a very special treatment: against a white mother-of-pearl backdrop, several layers of colours appear to be printed so as to achieve various hues of red as well as a shading effect. A silhouetted structure is then applied to create the shape of the petals and the rhodium effect. The cabochon set on the winding crown is a discreet reminder of the dominant dial colour.

The third watch features a case, dial and pin buckle hand-set with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.54 cts. Its dial is an 18K gold plate on which three master artisans have lavished their attention: the engraver, who has hand-drawn the floral motif; the enamellist, who has delicately coated the petals with transparent blue enamel; and the gemsetter, who has adorned the rim with diamonds. Just as on the other models, the distinctive nature of this flower lies in the fact that its “offset centre” contains the small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Free of horological complications, these three two-hand models are driven by the Elite 681 ultra-thin automatic Manufacture calibre. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4 Hz) and water-resistant to 30 metres, this movement is endowed with a minimum 50-hour power reserve and its oscillating weight is adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif that be admired through the transparent sapphire crystal case-back.

To ensure its gem set jewellery watches shine with exceptional radiance, Zenith uses only exceptional baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds, as required to meet the demands of impeccable quality. They are thus the purest with IF, VVS and VS clarity, the most beautiful in terms of colour, meaning graded D (for baguette-cut diamonds) and F or G in most cases. Keen on ensuring honesty, legality, transparency and good practice, the values that should govern the trade of precious stones, Zenith has put in place measurable processes that have enabled it to earn what is known as an RJC certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council, an organisation promoting the strictest ethical, social and environmental norms.

Ref. 03.1971.681/80.C754: 33 Mm Steel Case and White Origami Lacquer Dial
Movement
Elite 681, automatic
Calibre: 11½’’’ (diameter: 25.60 mm)
Thickness: 3.47 mm
Components: 128
Jewels: 27
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours min.
Oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Functions
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Case
Cushion-shaped, steel
Diameter: 33 mm
Opening diameter: 28 mm
Thickness: 9.45 mm
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres)

Dial
White origami lacquer set with 4 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers

Gemsetting
Dial: ~0.1 cts
Case: 0.16 cts
Buckle: 0.28 cts

Strap and Buckle

Rolled-edge blue alligator leather with rubber lining, polished with an agate stone / 27.00.1814.757
Gem-set white gold pin buckle / 27.31.0014.001

Ref. 16.1970.681/34.C756: 33 Mm Steel Case and Mother-Of-Pearl Dial With Transferred Floral Motif
Movement
Elite 681, automatic
Calibre: 11½’’’ (diameter: 25.60 mm)
Thickness: 3.47 mm
Components: 128
Jewels: 27
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours min.
Oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Functions
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Case
Cushion-shaped, steel with gem-set bezel
Diameter: 33 mm
Opening diameter: 28 mm
Thickness: 9.45 mm
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres)

Dial
White mother-of-pearl adorned with an orangey-red floral motif
Hands: rhodium-plated and facetted

Gemsetting
Weight: ~0.16 cts

Strap and Buckle
Orangey-red rolled-edge alligator leather with rubber lining, polished using an agate stone / 27.00.1814.756
Diamond-set steel pin buckle / 27.01.0014.001

Ref. 45.1972.681/36.C757: 33 Mm 18k White Gold Case Engraved, Enamelled and Gem-Set Entirely By Hand


Movement
Elite 681, automatic
Calibre: 11½’’’ (diameter: 25.60 mm)
Thickness: 3.47 mm
Components: 128
Jewels: 27
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 50 hours
Oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Functions
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Case
Cushion-shaped, gem-set 18K white gold
Diameter: 33 mm
Opening diameter: 28 mm
Thickness: 9.45 mm
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres)

Dial
Engraved, enamelled and gem-set entirely by hand
Hands: rhodium-plated or blued, facetted

Gemsetting
Dial: ~0.1 cts
Case: 0.16 cts
Buckle: 0.28 cts

Strap and buckle
Rolled-edge blue alligator leather with rubber lining, polished with an agate stone / 27.00.1814.754
Gem-set steel pin buckle / 27.01.0014.001

PANERAI Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramica, 48mm (PAM00577)

The new Radiomir 1940 3 Days takes inspiration from the Panerai watches made for the commandos of the Royal Italian Navy. The matt black ceramic of the case and the minimalist design of the dial give the new model from the Radiomir 1940 collection a remarkably contemporary technological appearance.
The new Radiomir 1940 case has a strongly technical appearance of great aesthetic impact, thanks to the use of a matt black ceramic, synthesised from Zirconium Oxide. Compared to steel, ceramic provides higher performance in terms of hardness, lightness and resistance to scratches, corrosive elements and high temperatures.
The fascination of the watch is enhanced by its black dial with its sandwich structure. The dot and bar hour markers contribute to its minimalist design of great simplicity and clarity. The overall modernism of the dial design is elegantly set off by the ecru colour of the Super-LumiNova® used to make the markers luminous, and by the image in relief of the Silura a Lenta Corsa (human torpedo), a reminder that, in spite of its apparently contemporary appearance, the dial too was originally designed at the end of the 1930s for the watches supplied by Panerai to the commandos of the Italian Navy.
The P.3000 hand-wound movement, entirely created in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel, can be admired through a large polished sapphire crystal window in the back of the case. The calibre measures 16½ lignes – a size that is characteristic of the period models – and it has wide brush-finished bridges covering the greater part of the wheelwork, a large balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter and two spring barrels which provide a power reserve of three days.
The P.3000 movement also has the device for rapidly adjusting the time, which enables the hour hand to move in jumps of one hour forward or backward, without interfering with the movement of the minute hand or the running of the watch.
The new Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramica (PAM00577) is water-resistant to 10 bar (a depth of about 100 metres) and it is supplied with a strap of brown untreated leather, with contrasting hand-sewing, and closed by a trapezoidal buckle. Like the case back, the buckle is made of titanium for its non-allergenic properties and it has a DLC coating matching the colour of the case.

Technical details
Model: Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramica – 48mm
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.3000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Case: 48 mm, black ceramic
Dial: Black with luminous hour markers
Water-resistance:  10 bar (~ 100 metres)

THOMAS MERCER CALIBRE TM 0802

Revered marine chronometer manufacturer Thomas Mercer introduces a new table chronometer movement to its existing line of high-end calibres: the eight-day, spring detent TM 0802 with fusee and chain.

Thomas Mercer’s calibre TM0802 is a sophisticated table chronometer movement aimed at keeping time according to marine chronometer standards. Embellished with the highest level of finishes, it is a true heir to a quintessentially British clock-making tradition, one of extreme accuracy, fine craftsmanship and exquisite artistry combined.

Calibre TM0802 joins an acclaimed range of timekeepers of various formats,. This range of utterly unique time pieces is now rich with a vertical format clock movement, designed and executed with the same demands as all Thomas Mercer’s chronometers: absolute quality all over, be it in design, technical and aesthetic terms.
Calibre TM0802 is an evolution of calibre TM0801, the first movement Thomas Mercer introduced. Rather than horizontal and round, it is a vertical and rectangular movement, typically found in forward-facing carriage clocks. The advantage of such a configuration is the prominence it gives the escapement. The calibre’s balance wheel is located at its apex, where it is most visible. In a relentless quest for perfection, a new function has been added: a start-stop device halting the movement on demand, allowing a perfect synchronisation with official time.

Like the rest of Thomas Mercer’s contemporary calibres, TM0802 sports an eight-day power reserve, indicated at 6 o’clock. This trait is indelibly linked to Thomas Mercer’s most famous chronometers. A long power reserve combined with a large size movement required to resort to a long, powerful mainspring. Such springs are known to provide a fluctuating torque, hardly compatible with the accuracy requirements of a chronometer.

In order to harness such power, Thomas Mercer’s TM0802 is fitted with a fusee-and-chain transmission system. The extensively polished mainspring barrel is connected to the fusee, a grooved cone with a curved profile. It acts as a gearbox, constantly changing gears in order to provide the movement with an almost constant level of torque. The amount of energy is such that they are connected by a solid, undeformable metallic chain, comprised of several dozen links and hundreds of components. The fusee-and-chain system is a major contributor to the TM0802’s chronometric features. It provides the escapement with a steady stream of energy, thus stabilising the movement’s frequency. This isochronism lies at the very root of accuracy.

Thomas Mercer’s TM0802 calibre ticks at the rate of 14 400 beats per hour. This is music to the ears of anyone in the vicinity: it emits a powerful, distinctive sound, that of its very special escapement. The escapement is the part of the movement that defines the elementary measure of time, which the gear train turns into seconds, minutes, hours and beyond. True to the legacy of both British marine chronometers and Thomas Mercer, it is of a very rare type. It is a spring detent escapement.

Also known as “chronometer escapement”, it has proved the most accurate and reliable of all. Its unparalleled efficiency is the result of very low energy consumption, low friction and lightness. These three features further enhance the TM0802’s accuracy, as well as its prestige. It is now one of the rarest features in clockmaking, the regulating of which is only mastered by a handful of experts, like those in charge of assembling and setting Thomas Mercer’s timekeepers.

Chronometer making is an art beyond clock making. The very finest finish is indeed required but the matching of a hairspring to a balance over a variety of temperature is the great challenge. Setting a chronometer is a task which requires special skills, especially at the level of accuracy demanded by Thomas Mercer.

The escapement works in close conjunction with a balance wheel and hairspring. The former is unique and specific to Thomas Mercer. The ovalising balance is a uncut ring of brass, fitted with regulating screws, and reinforced with a cross-bar made of invar. This reputable alloy helps it keep its shape, and therefore specific rhythm, while temperature varies. The latter is also exceptional by its shape. Instead of being flat and spiral, it takes on a cylindrical shape. It is entirely made in England, by hand, and an extremely rare occurrence in clock making. The manufacturing and shaping of such a spring had become a lost art. With the utmost respect for its brand heritage, Thomas Mercer is reviving this superb and demanding craft.

Calibre TM0802’s final contribution to accuracy is of an indirect nature. Its start/stop system is doubly useful. On the one hand, it launches the spring detent escapement, which needs an initial jumpstart. On the other, it blocks the balance wheel when setting the time, thus bringing it to a halt. It is then easier to set the time according to a main clock or official local time. When the hands are synchronised, one can restart the escapement and let the balance wheel resume its oscillation.

Thomas Mercer’s TM0802 is not only a technical work of art. It is also a piece of flawless craftsmanship, with an exceptional level of finishes. True to the spirit of high-end clock making, not a single component of the movement goes untouched.

Like the whole TM0802 movement, these finest finishes are conducted in England. The scale of this process is peerless. The overall surface that needs decorating is far superior to that of the vast majority of time pieces. Such unique level of absolute care on so many components is exceptionally large, only found in movements ten times smaller like those of wristwatches.

Thursday, May 28, 2015

RAYMOND WEIL FREELANCER PIPER

In association with the legendary aviation manufacturer Piper Aircraft Inc., RAYMOND WEIL presents its first-ever pilot watch: the freelancer Piper.

Made of titanium and stainless steel, this 45mm freelancer features a mechanical selfwinding chronograph movement with date and GMT functions, making it easy for all experienced pilots to read. The shiny blue minute and hour hands resemble the aircraft’s rotor blades while the GMT hand, with its red pointer, references a compass. The small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock is inspired by the attitude indicator and the openwork black leather strap completes the aviator look of the timepiece.
With its tachometric bezel, 100-meter water resistance and 46-hour power reserve, flying enthusiasts can set off to conquer the skies and discover new horizons above the clouds. Each freelancer Piper watch will be offered in a special box, which will include a model of a RAYMOND WEIL-branded Piper aircraft.
Throughout his life, Raymond Weil demonstrated a visionary’s thinking, an independence of spirit and an admirable determination. An enthusiastic pilot, he was particularly fond of mountain flights, especially around the Matterhorn, which he did not hesitate to admire with his Piper plane during his travels in Switzerland. As a nod to the man’s dear passions, the advertising campaign unveiling the freelancer Piper watch features the Swiss Alps and displays a RAYMOND WEIL-branded Piper plane.

Technical details
Model: FREELANCER PIPER
Reference: 7754-TIC-05209

Movement
Chronograph – RW5020
Winding: Automatic
Power-Reserve: 46 hours
Jewels: 25 rubies

Functions
Central hours and minutes, small seconds hand at 9 o’clock
Date window at 4 o’clock
Central GMT hand
Chronograph
- Start, stop and restart using push-button at 2 o’clock
- Reset using push-button at 4 o’clock
- Central chronograph hand
- 30 minutes counter at 12 o’clock
- 12 hours counter at 6 o’clock
- Tachometer ring

Case
Round – Titanium and stainless steel
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 13.7mm
Crown: Screwed and fluted with RW monogram
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with dual-sided antiglare treatment
Case back: Screw down, with sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Dial
Black
Indexes: Arabic numerals enhanced with luminescent material

Hands
Hours / minutes: Black, barrel-shaped, enhanced with luminescent material
Second at 9 o’clock: Red, baton type
Chronograph: Blue, barrel-shaped
GMT: Black with red pointer and enhanced with luminescent material, barrel-shaped

Bracelet
Black open work genuine leather strap with a RW titanium and stainless steel folding clasp with double push-button security system