Saturday, January 16, 2016

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition

The Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition, a fitting tribute to exceptional artisan watchmaking, celebrates the 10th anniversary of H. Moser & Cie’s iconic perpetual calendar watch.

This exceptional timepiece is an exercise in style linking tradition and modernity, two elements which coexist in all creations by H. Moser & Cie. The Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is a salute to watchmaking past and present. It is the distillation of H. Moser & Cie's 187 years of watchmaking expertise.
The inspiration behind the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition came from an H. Moser pocket watch dating from the late 19th century in the H. Moser & Cie. collection. The case on this model, made from a striking blue, engraved enamel and studded with diamonds, inspired the watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture to reinterpret this watch, calling on the best craftsmen to work on the case.
Featuring "cloisonné" enamel on a case with two covers, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques as well as "Grand Feu" enamel on the dial, in association with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold: the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is the synthesis of the greatest arts in watchmaking craftsmanship. It also symbolises the link between the past and the present for H. Moser & Cie., founded in 1828, through a reinterpretation of an historic watch which retains its original features, now in a larger dimension and fitted with a strap. The red gold case with two covers has therefore been enlarged and features extremely fine lugs, while respecting its original design. On either side of the watch is a cover with hand-engraved, guilloché decoration, extending up the side of the case.

These have then been enamelled, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship, and set with diamonds on the dial side. Paired with a crocodile leather strap, this beautifully rounded case is as smooth as a pebble. In reference to the historic timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. fitted its Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with a notched crown equipped with the Double Pull Crown system and fitted with a push-button mechanism for opening the upper case cover.
The dial, also enamelled, is decorated with Roman numerals. The scales of the track showing minutes and small seconds are a further reference to tradition, as is the dovetail shape of the two main hands, which are flame-blued, as well as those for the power reserve and small seconds. The third central hand, which is black, shows the months of the year using the twelve indices, like the famous Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. A large window at 3 o'clock shows the date, displayed using two discs.
Inside beats the high-performance HMC 341 calibre. Made from 18-carat solid gold, this movement is set with two diamond end-stones. It guarantees the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition a minimum 7-day power reserve, thanks to its double barrel. Representing the culmination of nearly 200 years of history, the in-house HMC 341 calibre can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day via the crown.

Technical details
Model: Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition
Reference 8341-0400, 5N red gold model, pocket watch-type case, white enamel dial, crocodile leather strap

Pocket watch-type case in 5N red gold, diamond-set (28 diamonds, 0.31 carat) and enamelled
Diameter: 46.0 mm, height: 13.6 mm
Sapphire crystal

White "Grand Feu" enamel dial
Hand-painted Roman numerals
Dovetail-shaped blued hands
Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand
Offset small seconds
Large date display at 3 o’clock

Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 341
Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 5.8 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
28 jewels and screwed gold mounts
Power reserve: minimum 7-day with a double barrel
Solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with a matte finish, hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark
True bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
2 genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber
Traditional screw balance wheel with gold weight screws
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold

Perpetual calendar
Centre-hand month indicator, 12 hour indices = 12 months
Hours and minutes
Offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year indicator and adjustment push-button
Double Pull Crown mechanism

Hand-stitched crocodile leather strap
18-carat solid 5N red gold folding clasp with Moser logo

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