Friday, February 12, 2016

Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Boréal

Equipped with dual time display, an extremely useful complication when travelling, the Galet Traveller Boréal timepiece from Laurent Ferrier enable the wearer a chance to cross time zones by one smooth move on the wrist. Pressing a push-button brings the time zone up to date.

This new watch was developed with the aim of ensuring extremely smooth handling, while also ensuring visual balance, readability and performance in all circumstances – all values dear to Laurent Ferrier.

Positioned perfectly geometrically and delicately integrated on the left side of the case, two oblong push-buttons are pressed to modify local time indicated by a central hand. These two buttons at 8 and 10 o’clock are subtly integrated into the case middle so as to follow the harmonious curve of this solid stainless steel “pebble”. Only a tiny notch designed for a fingernail forms a tiny protruding edge in order to facilitate handling. When moving from one time zone to another, the central hour hand indicating local time may be moved forwards or backwards, in one-hour increments, by successive presses. Pressing the upper push-button advances the hand by one hour, while pressing the lower push-button moves it backwards, all without affect the minutes hand.
In addition to this fast local-time adjustment, the date, appearing in a window at 3 o’clock, is automatically modified when the hand passes midnight, thus spontaneously adapting to transitions between the various time zones. The window at 9 o’clock maintains the reference or home time. Thanks to its 24-hour display, it is easy to check whether it is day or night in one’s place of residence even from the other side of the world.

The dial is enhanced with harmoniously varied tones and textures through associating Superluminova for the chapter ring, a vertical satin-brushed finish on the dial, a snailed small seconds subdial, and a fine slate-grey transfer around the periphery. The small seconds picks up the central theme, thereby endowing this model with a fine aesthetic balance, in keeping with the principles of purity and legibility cherished by Laurent Ferrier. The dial is also graced with “arrowshaped” hours and minutes hands enhanced with Superluminova, and a baton-shaped seconds hand.

The pure aesthetic codes of the Maison have been maintained, but in this 41 mm diameter size, the model is more powerfully present on the wrist than its predecessors. Fitted with a ball-shaped winding-crown ensuring pleasing handling, the back is equipped with a snap-on back ensuring that the movement remains easily accessible to watchmakers via the olivette.

Laurent Ferrier reinvents the graphic composition of the Galet Square dial while preserving the distinctive codes of its collection. For this new variation, this so-called “sector-type” dial typical of the late 1930s attractively combines a vintage touch with a highly contemporary appearance.

The Galet Traveller Boréal houses self-winding Calibre LF 230.01, from the famous line of MicroRotor movements with natural escapement. It incorporates the dual time-zone adjustment mechanism as well as the date. This useful complication, that took a full two years to develop, is fully integrated and each part is an integral part of the global architecture of the base calibre.

LF Calibre 230.01 features a pawl-fitted micro-rotor unidirectional winding system, backed by a double direct-impulse natural escapement. The latter, devised by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, is now made using modern technologies that contribute to the exceptional precision of Laurent Ferrier watches. The major distinctive feature of this natural escapement lies in the fact that two impulses are directly imparted to the balance with each oscillation. Its excellent efficiency guarantees a high amplitude for the balance operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

Laurent Ferrier uses a silicon pallet-lever for its lightness and its self-lubricating properties, as well as escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy known for its extreme hardness, all made using LIGA technology. The main advances of these cutting-edge materials lies in the resulting perfect surface states, as well as strong resistance to both wear and corrosion. The micro-rotor is in engine-turned 18K gold. It is fitted with a “silent bloc” type shock-absorbing system similar to chassis mounting rubbers. The winding device is offset and fitted on the mainplate between two bridges, and fixed between two jewels. This reduces the thickness of the movement and provides a clear view of the construction, while ensuring maximum stability compared with a conventional oscillating weight.

This innovative horological architecture, complemented by the natural escapement, serves to achieve a one-third increase in the winding force of the micro-rotor and thus to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. Its efficiency is thus far superior to the majority of classic escapements and is above all extremely stable over the long term.

The decoration and finishing of the movement are in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions. The sapphire crystal case-back of the Galet Traveller Boréal provides a fine view of the finesse of this workmanship. In addition to the Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges and the circular-graining of the mainplate, the sides are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished. The authenticity of the hand chamfering is perceptible in the clean cut of the interior angles that no machine can achieve and which demonstrate the authenticity of the watchmaking art as exercised by Laurent Ferrier.

Technical details
Reference LCF007-AC

Self-winding Calibre LF230.01
Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” type shock absorbing system.
Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance.
Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA technology.
Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 5,80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
288 parts
44 jewels

Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock.

Crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two pushbuttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to ad just the time hour per hour with automatic date correction.

Stainless steel
Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
Thickness: of the material 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.64 mm
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water-resistant to 30 metres
“Ball-shaped” crown in stainless steel

Black nickel-coloured, vertical satin-brushing, snailed small seconds and slate-grey transfer.
Chapter ring coated with Superluminova
“Minute track around the dial circumference
Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
Small seconds counter at 6 o’clock
Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock

18K/750 gold, “arrow-shaped” for the hours and minutes
Seconds: baton-type with counterweight

Strap: leather and composite material with green stitching or light brown barbialla calf with Alcantara lining, hand sewn
Buckle/clasp: pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp in stainless steel

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