Thursday, February 18, 2016

Roger Dubuis Velvet by Massaro

Roger Dubuis Velvet by Massaro is a line designed to reveal the visionary facet of femininity. It epitomises the creative muse, the revolutionary passionaria, exploring the fascinatingly eccentric side of women who are fearless in revealing their true selves.

When imagining the Roger Dubuis world at the SIHH 2016, Creative Director Alvaro Maggini was determined to create a glamorous stage recalling the golden age of Hollywood and the rise of the first global stars who dominated the 1930s and 40s in the major film studios.

As a natural extension of this creative vision, the idea of working with a master of feminine luxury led Roger Dubuis to the prestigious Parisian doors of Massaro. Entirely dedicated to the world of fashion and feminine glamour for over 130 years, the Maison Massaro is proud of the traditions of its craft, as indeed are the watchmakers at the Geneva-based Manufacture. Like Roger Dubuis, the Maison Massaro has never feared to introduce daring and iconoclastic interpretations of his art.

And like the watchmaking Maison, Massaro is just as dedicated to hand workmanship as to the use of innovative materials and original designs, as well as the kind of subtle details that create an unmistakable and powerful allure.

The Maison Massaro is acknowledged by the greatest names on the haute couture planet as capable of setting the perfect finishing touch to any outfit. Look no further for the signature that has captivated celebrities around the world, or for the genius behind the iconic black-and-beige sling backs synonymous with Chanel.

Maggini decided to take the Massaro mantra – “anything is possible here” – quite literally by imposing a set of aesthetic and technical challenges that would have daunted a less talented and inventive firm. The idea was to bring the distinctive beauty of creative shoemaking to the wrist through an instantly recognisable yet unequivocally original line. Gold, silver, feathers, beads, woven motifs, cinema costumes… but absolutely no spangles nor bling: such was the creative brief perfectly grasped by Massaro. The shoemaker enthusiastically launched into an interactive creative endeavour that called for exactly the kind of lateral thinking in which both Maisons excel.

SIHH 2016 brings the big reveal of this line and – in tune with the craze carried by a number of contemporary stars – it’s a case of redheads first with a model name Rita, in tribute to the silver-screen siren, the legendary Rita Hayworth.
Nicknamed “The Love Goddess”, she took a far more down-to earth view of her success, famously saying: “A girl is, well, a girl. It’s nice to be told you’re successful at it.” She exuded a powerful and provocative presence as well as a taste for living both passionately and dangerously that chimes with the Roger Dubuis vibe.

The highlight ‘feature’ of this charismatic creation is of course the pleated Haute Couture leather strap evoking the beauty, elegance and originality that Roger Dubuis shares with the Parisian shoe designer. Bringing that touch from heel to hand – and from sole to soul – was no ordinary ‘feat’, but the Manufacture and Massaro share the above-mentioned belief that anything is possible once the right creative idea has been sparked. In the process Maggini discovered even more parallels between the two worlds than he had initially imagined. Those who consider shoes or timepieces to be mere accessories should try and imagine a runway show without the right footwear, or a perfect daytime or evening outfit without the wristworn companion that both reveals and enhances a personality. And just as shoes adorn and surround a woman’s feet, so too a sensual watch strap embraces the wrist in an intimate and alluring way.

Secured by a white gold adjustable folding clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds, this unique strap glows in warm gold tones that are picked up in the yellow gold barrel-shaped dial centre typical of the Velvet collection. The radiating applied hour-markers – including two yellow gold ones at 6 and 12 o’clock – are arranged on a satin sunburst exterior and also reflect this shining, luminous theme. The bezel, lugs and decor of the dainty 36 mm white gold case are set with brilliant cut diamonds.

This timepiece is powered with a self-winding calibre beating at 28,800 vph and finely adjusted in five positions delivers a 48-hour power reserve. In tune with the rare nature of such a creation, this model is issued in an 88-piece limited edition.

Technical details
Model: Velvet by Massaro – Rita
Production: 88 pieces
Certification: Poinçon de Genève

Ø 36 mm, white gold, bezel, lugs and decor set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Thickness: 8.77 mm
Water Resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)

Calibre: Self-winding calibre, RD821
Features: Self-winding mechanical calibre, finely adjusted in five positions
Functions: Hours and minutes
Decorations: Rhodium-plated, “Côtes de Genève”decoration, “Poinçon de Genève” finishings
Number of parts: 172 components
Jewels: 33
Diameter: 11 ½ ’’’
Thickness: 3.43 mm
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
Power-reserve: 48 hours

Silver dial, yellow gold barrel paved with diamonds,satin sunburst exterior, black Roman numerals transfers,yellow gold appliques at 6 and 12 o’clock, black transfers Roger Dubuis inscription

N° of diamonds
262 diamonds (86 diamonds on the case, 162 diamonds in the barrel & 14 diamonds on the clasp)
Carats: 1.95 carats approx. (1.66 cts on the case, 0.18 ct in the barrel & 0.11 ct on the clasp)

Pleated leather Haute Couture gold strap co-designed by Massaro
Clasp: White gold adjustable folding clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds

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