Tuesday, February 23, 2016

VANGARDE ‘Chrono Théorie’

Imbued with a creative blend of watchmaking passion, ‘Chrono Théorie’ epitomises the "vision" of the chronograph by the designer VANGARDE.

The face of this piece bears the movement, dial and hands and has been designed to create several levels of structural perception. This feat was made possible by developing an amazing interwoven design.

The interwoven design creates an instantly recognisable whole piece which also has subtly distinguishable subsections. These subsections revolve mainly around the shapes, surfaces and outlines formed by the dial-movement pairing and can be given a fresh twist by moving the hands for an incredibly subtle polymorphic kinetic experience.
On the dial side, 2 large symmetrical bi-compax counters embody the key element around which different emotions related to the interwoven design revolve.  The shape of the dial has been designed as a fusion of structures at different levels of timekeeping and plays on the duality of symmetry/asymmetry.  Two-tone hour and minute hands showcase the kinetic transformation of the elements and their tips feature the V. logo.

The two-tone printing helps identify subsections and create balance. The “seconds” and “chrono minutes” counter hands provide visual timekeeping by masking the circle rather than pointing straight at the markers. The chrono hour counter is put in an anti-clockwise rotation and incorporated by the interwoven printing.
The embedded in-house movement, V1 calibre is based on an ETA Valjoux 7750 sketch chosen for its reliability and ease of maintenance.

The Calibre V1 has a bespoke skeletonised tri-compax back-plate and bridge allowing the minute dial to be positioned at "3" (originally at "12" on the 7750).  All the key components such as the balance wheel, balance spring and spring have been replaced by state-of-the-art components (chronometer range).The movement is assembled with the greatest care and adjusted in five positions.

The surfaces are hand-finished with Geneva stripes, circular graining, and brushing. The gears and rotor have been redesigned to provide a unique view of the escapement and self-winding system. A specially designed black ruthenium galvanising process produces the modern look that is expected of high-end contemporary chronographs.
The circular graining finish gives a 'carbon' look to the skeleton bridges, perfectly blending traditional and modern expertise, while the rotor is decorated with Geneva stripes. The steel mechanical parts and escapement wheel are brushed. The dial features Geneva stripes, rhodium-plated wheels and brushing whilst the calibre screws are all polished.

The ‘Chrono Théorie’ has a 316L stainless steel case cut from a solid block with a monobloc middle case and machined calibre housing (no casing ring). The bezel and screw down back are both polished and fitted with O-rings. The sapphire crystals have a state of the art anti-reflection coating to minimise unwanted glare.
The case band has a brushed, satin-finish surface creating a beautiful contrast with the crown and pushers which are polished and decorated with Clous de Paris. The strap is made in France in keeping with the tradition of master leather craftsmen. Made from carefully selected Louisiana alligator skin, it is hand assembled and sewn then fitted to the case with stainless steel screw down tubes. To ensure easy and secure wear, the strap has a butterfly clasp and two pushers with a brushed, polished, Clous de Paris finish.

Technical details
Integrated automatic chronograph, chronometer grade
Based on mechanical ébauches ETA Valjoux 7750
Glucydur balance wheel
Anachron balance spring
Nivaflex NM mainspring
Incabloc shock absorber
29 jewels movement
48 hour power reserve
Adjusted in five-positions

Movement Finish
Coloured by black ruthenium plating
Balance bridge hand-finished circular graining, galvanized black
Specific tri-compax plate, skeleton design with hand-finished Geneva stripes, rhodium-plating
Specific tri-compax bridge skeleton design with hand-finished’ traits tirés’, rhodium-plating
Automatic-winding bridge, skeleton design with hand-finished circular graining, galvanized black
Barrel Bridge, skeleton design with hand-finished circular graining, galvanized black.
Rhodium-plated escape wheel with hand-finished ‘traits tirés’
Steel mechanical parts rhodium-plating, with hand-finished ‘traits tirés’
Barrel Bridge, skeleton design with hand-finished circular graining, galvanized black
Rotor, skeleton design with hand-finished Geneva stripes and printed balance, galvanized black
Skeletonised rhodium-plated gear wheels
Polished screws

Machined from solid stainless steel 316 L
Monobloc case band (machined movement housing) with brushed and satin finish
Screw-down back-plate and bezel with polished finish
Screw-down crown with 'Clous de Paris' finish
Buttons with 'Clous de Paris' finish
Sapphire bezel with double sided anti-reflective coating (front and back)
Case dimensions: diameter 42 mm, width 13.9 mm

CNC cut, galvanised, black mat finished, white and grey tampography
12 index applies lacquered matt white
Hands: Skeletonised, galvanized black, white and black Superluminova, white varnish

Hand-made from Louisiana alligator-skin, large square scales, hand-stitched, black calf leather lining
Clasp: 316 L stainless steel, double push-button butterfly clasp with polished, satin, 'Clous de Paris' finish

5650 Euros

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