The Patek Philippe World Time (Heure Universelle) watch is one of the most popular complicated wristwatches from the Geneva based watch manufacture since its inception in 1930s. It continued to enthral the watch connoisseurs with its many variations for more than 80 years. This year, at Baselworld watch fair, the manufacture presents the new World Time watch Ref.5230, which is replacing all previous models.
For Patek Philippe, this was also an ideal cue for reworking the appearance of the World Time watch, subtly retouching details to give it a truly contemporary and distinctive personality. As regards the Calatrava case of the new Ref. 5230 in white or rose gold 5N, changes were applied among others to the winglet-style lugs and the narrow, smoothly polished bezel that attractively sets the watch apart from its predecessors. The hand shapes have been given a new look as well: Instead of the venerable ringed hour hand and Dauphine minute hand, the Ref. 5230 now sports a pierced hour hand with a silhouette that evokes the famous "Southern Cross" constellation, and the minute hand features a lozenge-shaped contour. Both hands have a sharp center ridge between the carefully lapped, beveled flanks. Like the applied baton hour markers, they are crafted from 18K white or rose gold 5N to match the case.
The only differences are the applied hour markers and the hands, which are made of the same 18K gold as the case. Both versions are worn on a hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales and a Calatrava fold-over clasp. The strap is shiny black with an 18K white-gold clasp for the white gold model and shiny chocolate brown with an 18K rose-gold clasp for the rose-gold model.
Ref. 5230 World Time watch
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement, display of 24 time zones, day/night indication
Diameter: 27.50 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
Centrifugal mass: 22K gold minirotor, unidirectionally winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
Local time selector: Pusher at 10 o'clock
Synchronized adjustment of displays in one-hour steps for the hour hand and 1/24th counter clockwise increments for the city disk and the 24-hour ring
Patek Philippe Seal
Local time in hours and minutes
City disk with 24 place names
24-hour ring with day/night indication in colors and sun/moon symbols
18K white or rose gold 5N
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.50 mm
Length (across lugs): 46.91 mm
Width (9 to 3 o'clock incl. crown): 41.45 mm
Thickness (crystal to display back): 10.23 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm
- City disk printed black
- 24-hour ring with day/night indication in color and sun/moon symbols (day: black numerals on silvery background; night: white numerals on black background)
- Center hand-guilloched with basket weave pattern
Hour hand with "Southern Cross" constellation motif, pierced, lapped flanks, in 18K white or rose gold 5NLozenge-shaped minute hand with lapped flanks, in 18K white or rose gold 5N Applied baton hour markers in 18K white or rose gold 5N
Hand-stitched alligator with large square scales
Shiny black with Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K white gold for the white-gold model Shiny chocolate brown with Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold 5N for the rose-gold model
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