Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue

For this new execution of the Chapter Three, special attention was given to the color of the dial. The deep black color emphasizes the classical esthetic of the watch and the beauty of the guilloche finish. This new dial complements the choice of the existing silver and anthracite versions.

The ingenious mechanism of the opening of the dial becomes the DNA of the Chapter Three. A pusher on the center of the crown allows to lower two concealed dial panels of the dial in order to reveal two additional and hidden time indications: a second time zone indication (also known as GMT) and a Day/Night indicator, both displayed on cylinders, the signature feature of Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie.
Starting from scratch in designing the movement has allowed integrating the cylinders within the caliber rather than just adding a module needing much more space. The high precision conical gears improve the distribution of power and the reliability of the different mechanisms. The tailor made architecture of the movement also includes the opening and closing mechanism of the revealing dial panels. Incorporating this mechanism into the movement rather than the case allows for the complete optimization of reliability without increasing its. But a rich display associated with a distinguished elegance is not sufficient: an outstanding watch must also be a precise timepiece. For this purpose the movement is regulated by a Straumann escapement which is equipped with a low mass and energy efficient escape lever and a balance spring with Breguet overcoil improving the isochronism.
The Chapter Three is a timepiece displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date and moon phase all set on a sumptuous guilloche dial in an elegant round 18K gold case.
When the concealed panels are positioned flush on the dial, the hour and minute hands are completed by a small second counter at 8hoursharmoniously counterpoised by a date counter at 2hours and at 4hours by a moon phase indicator representing the shadow of the Earth passing over a photo realistic moon. The small counters of the second and date indicators are subtly enhanced by a guilloche “Clous de Paris” and are identified by small and neat name plates.

The opening and closing mechanism is a complication in itself. When the dial is closed a light pressure on the pusher in the crown lowers the panels below the level of the dial, and then releasing the pusher the same disappears below the dial unveiling the cylinders of the second time zone and the Day/Night indicator. A new pressure of the pusher creates an inverted rotation of the panels and resets them in the initial position before making them rise flush with the dial when releasing the pusher.
The hands in 18K solid gold and large Roman Indices are placed on the magnificent dial which is finely guilloche with a sunray design.
The high precision cylinders are the esthetical and technical signature of all timepieces of Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie. They have to be very resistant and extremely light in weight so as to optimise the functioning of the movement.
In order to maximize the readability the second time indicator positioned in the lower part of the dial is displayed on two separate cylinders: the hours 1 to 6 on one and 7 to 12 on the other one. In the transition of the cylinders (forward and backward) between 6 and 7 and 12 and 1, the cylinder which is not used moves horizontally out of view giving space to the other cylinder.
This innovative and unique mechanism is patented. Using two cylinders instead of just one means that only 6 figures have to be engraved on the circumference of the cylinder and this offers the possibility for the figures to be twice as large and therefore twice as easy to read.
The cylinder for the Day/Night indication, which is positioned on the upper part of the dial, requires a 30 days manufacturing cycle. This very demanding manufacturing process goes through high precision machining, lining of hybrid ceramic, polishing, colouring of the sunrays and the stars through a galvanic process and finally hand painting of the faces of the Sun and the Moon.

Technical Specifications

Displays
Central hour and minute hands
Small seconds at 8 o’clock
Date on sub-dial at 2 o’clock
Moon phase at 4 o’clock
Concealed Day/Night on cylinder at 12 o’clock
Concealed second time zone on cylinder at 6 o’clock

Movement
Caliber SHC03
Manual winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 35.6 mm x 8.2 mm (inclusive of dial opening mechanism)
Number of components: 319
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: 36 hours
Dual mainspring barrels in series 
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil and low-mass escape lever
Finishing: Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, and polished screw heads

Case
18K gold
Number of components: 49
Dimension: 42mm
Sapphire crystals on top and display back with anti-reflective coating
Shaped pusher: desynchronizes cylinders from time indication when setting second time zone
Crown: 3 positions plus pusher
Position 0: Winding
Position 1: Setting date and moon phase
Position 2: Setting time
Pusher: Open/close dial panels
Water resistance: 30 meters/100 feet/3 ATM

Dial
Roman numerals
Sunray guilloche, Clous de Paris guilloche
Hands: 18K gold

Hands
18 K gold hands
Rounded stamped with hand bevelled and polished heads
Bent minute hand

Day and Month High Precision Cylinders
Concealed time zone: dual sliding embossed, aluminum Anticorodal cylinders
Concealed Day/Night: engraved and hand painted

Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K gold tang buckle

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