Sunday, October 9, 2016

Romain Gauthier Enraged Limited Editions: Logical One Enraged and Prestige HMS Enraged

The Enraged Limited Editions by Romain Gauthier follow a different path from the traditional luxury watches that come in polished and shiny finishing. This new collection reinterprets two iconic models from Manufacture: Logical One & Prestige HMS.

Logical One is Romain Gauthier’s Grand Prix de Genève-winning creation that contains a snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain to offer nearly two days of constant force. Its in-house movement, visible dial side and through the display back, is ingeniously wound using a caseband pusher. It features hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial and small seconds, plus a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back.
Logical One Enraged
Prestige HMS – hours, minutes and seconds –boasts a partly open dial and display back offering mouth watering views of Romain Gauthier’s in-house Calibre 2206 HMS, notable for its large-diameter crown configured ‘flat’ on the caseback for increased winding efficiency. The absence of a protruding caseband crown lends the timepiece a distinctive, streamlined profile.
Prestige HMS Enraged
For his Enraged limited editions, Romain Gauthier has taken Logical One and Prestige HMS and given them a bold, sporty makeover, with the watchmaker drawing on the automotive industry for inspiration.

Let us start with the interior details. The movement plates and bridges feature hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel countersinks in keeping with tradition. But Gauthier has treated them with a decidedly less-than-traditional, light-absorbing matte-black finish.
The displays are also darkened and matte-finished: Prestige HMS’s louvred brass dial has been hand-frosted then blackened, while for Logical One the same hand-frosting technique has been used to playfully turn the enamel subdials from a glossy black into a rough-textured grey. The hour, minute and second hands are, naturally, matte black, and even the R.Gauthier logo has taken on a spiky form, in appearance and attitude.

As for the body work, Gauthier has chosen to machine the cases from robust yet lightweight Grade 5 titanium, which has been matte black ADLC treated. The treatment here doesn’t see light being totally soaked up. In fact, the grainy texture created by sand-blasting provides a subtle, intriguing sheen. Even the crowns and, in the case of Logical One Enraged, the winding pusher, bear this rugged, eye-catching finish.

The most outrageous supercars are destined for only a special few. Likewise, Gauthier has ensured the exclusivity of these timepieces by creating both Logical One Enraged and Prestige HMS Enraged in three editions – with dark accents, red accents or orange accents – with each edition limited to just five pieces.

Logical One Enraged
With Logical One, Romain Gauthier has reinvented the chain-and-fusee– one of the oldest methods of supplying constant force to a horological movement – making it more reliable, more effective… and more constant.

Logical One’s pioneering, multi-patented in-house movement features Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional chain-and-fusee style constant force mechanism, on display to the left of the hour-minute subdial.

Gauthier’s invention contains an innovative snail cam connected to the mainspring barrel by a ruby-link chain. With the snail cam and mainspring barrel configured so they are ‘flat’ – i.e. on the same plane – force is transmitted in a straight line for an ultra-efficient transfer of energy.
The relatively short length of the chain allows it to contain strong, generously sized links in steel featuring rollers made from low-friction, hard-wearing synthetic rubies. The chain is joined together via a smart snap-clip systemthat offers precision, reliability and ease of servicing.

To eliminate potential uneven friction within the mainspring barrel, Gauthier has placed the mainspring between synthetic sapphire plates. Sapphire has a low coefficient of friction with steel making it the ideal material to use.

Winding Logical One is a veritable tactile pleasure thanks to Romain Gauthier’s innovative push button winding system, with the pusher set into the caseband at 9 o’clock. Another demonstration of Gauthier’s clever engineering, the pusher efficiently transmits force to the barrel on the same plane.
Logical One Enraged’s movement was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.

Virtually every component of the movement bears Roman Gauthier's distinctive touch: The highly visible balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights; the curvaceous balance bridge; bespoke gear wheels with circular arms for maximum strength; hand-bevelled bridges; high-efficiency profiles of the gear teeth; screw heads with s-slot for more length; and Romain Gauthier-invented triangular pallet lever for maximum rigidity. All these elements can be admired dial side, whilemore of the movement can be viewed through the display back.

Technical details
Editions
Full matte black with dark dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with reddial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with orangedial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds; 46-hour power reserve indicator; push-button winding; innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system featuring snail cam and ruby-link chain

Dial and hands
Oven-fired black-enamel dial, turned grey by hand-frosting, on an 18k gold base
Matte black stainless steel hour, minute and second hands
Skeletonised hour and minute hands

Movement
In-house movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: Steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Treatment: Matte black
Patents: 4
Finishing: Hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel counter sinks

Case
Case material: Sand-blasted full matte black ADLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 43mm x 15mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating front and display back
Crown for time-setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock

Strap
Black nubuckstrap with stitching in colour to match the dial and movement accents, with matte black titanium pin buckle

Prestige HMS Enraged
The dial of Prestige HMS is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Hours and minutes are displayed in the large sub-dial at 12 o’clock engraved with the R.Gauthier logo, while cut-outs in the main dial reveal the precision micro-mechanics of the in-house movement beneath.  

The visible, oscillating balance wheel at 7 o’clock and open seconds wheel at 5 o’clock add vibrancy and animation to an already rich visual experience.  
The streamline 41mm diameter case is distinguished by unbroken lines around its full perimeter. Indeed, it is the absence of a ‘normal’ caseband crown that hints at just how remarkable the movement is.  

Romain Gauthier has placed the crown ‘flat’ on the caseback to increase winding efficiency because energy does not need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components. The large diameter of the crown also enables the timepiece to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.   

While the dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house calibre is fully showcased, with Roman Gauthier's distinctive touch evident in virtually all the components.  
The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique s-slot, enabling more torque to be applied during assembly. 

With its curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.  

The hand-finishing of the bridges includes hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel counter sinks. While the Vallée de Joux style finger bridges catch the eye with their distinctive curves,the large bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and ratchet click. Even the sharp internal angles of this cut-out are hand-bevelled.

Technical details
Editions
Full matte black with dark dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with red dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with orange dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes; sectorial seconds
Multi-level dial open 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and seconds gear 
In-house movement visible through display back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding

Dial and hands
Off-centre hours and minutessubdial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 5 o’clock
Matte black stainless steel hour, minute and second hands featuring coloured tips
Skeletonised hour and minute hands

Movement
In-house movement
In-house manufacture movement Calibre 2206 HMS
Power reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22 
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Finishing: Hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel counter sinks

Case
Case material: Sand-blasted full matte black ADLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1 mm
Water resistance: 10m/1atm/30ft
Winding and time-setting crown on the caseback

Strap
Black nubuck strap with stitching in colour to match the dial and movement accents, with matte black titanium pin buckle

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