Monday, January 9, 2017

Christophe Claret Maestro

Christophe Claret’s SIHH 2017 novelty, the new Maestro is a fresh and youthful watch that showcases an original take on the horological creativity of the world renowned Master-watchmaker. Its glass dome provides a striking, almost dizzying view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. Endowed with a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function, Maestro asserts itself as the first Haute Complication watch by Christophe Claret with a CHF 68,000 price tag.
The 42mm case – the smallest diameter in the Christophe Claret collections – in grade 5 titanium or 5N pink gold asserts its style with a curvex shape that accentuates its trim design. The choice of a glass dome to serve as a bezel provides a whole new perspective on the movement. The airy and graphic architecture – reinforced by the inner bezel ring with its matt and polished finishing, as well as Christophe Claret’s characteristic two-tone, bi-material hands – is truly striking.
In line with previous models in the Traditional collection, Christophe Claret has lavished great care on every detail and focused on ensuring an ideal match between technical and aesthetic aspects. The visual journey begins with the famous Charles X style stepped and skeletonized bridges that have become a signature of the Maison through its various collections. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features. The balance-wheel with countersunk screws has been entirely developed and produced in-house. Expressing a permanent concern for details, a natural ruby or a natural sapphire, depending on the version, adorns this assembly in order to conceal the shock-absorbing system.
The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.
Christophe Claret expresses his creative audacity through original displays running counter to traditional design codes. In this masterpiece, he has cleverly placed a unique, large date indication at 5 o’clock. Composed of two cone-shaped aluminum disks, one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units, this patented large date display performs a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. Lending the perfect finishing touch, its top is set with a natural ruby or a natural sapphire.
The space between 3 and 4 o’clock houses another cone shape – also topped with a sapphire or ruby which offers a brand-new playful function: MEMO, an ingenious mechanical reminder. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO adorned with a sapphire or ruby and a diamond – depending on the version – is there to remind him of his commitment. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher pivots the MEMO function, which will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.
Hand-finished according to the noblest Haute Horlogerie traditions, the Maestro reveals a level of finishing that few watch manufacturers can claim to master, such as the stepped Charles X style bridges featuring 26 interior angles. A sapphire crystal pane fitted on the back of the watch provides a chance to admire the meticulous movement decorations.
Maestro is available in 5N pink gold or grade 5 titanium and both versions are issued in 88-piece limited editions.

Technical specifications

Movement

Caliber DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 342
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement           
- Swiss lever escapement
- Balance-wheel with countersunk screws 
- Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
               
Functions       
- Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
- Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper disk and units on the lower disk
- MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a sapphire or ruby and a diamond serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Aesthetic features
- Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
- Skeletonized barrel and ratchet-wheel

Case
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Reference:  MTR.DMC16.100-188
Case: Grade 5 titanium
Hands: PVD-treated anthracite gray and blue anodized aluminum with Super-Luminova
Crown: Stainless steel
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching 
Limited series: 88
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 68,000.-

Reference:  MTR.DMC16.000-088
Case: 5N pink gold
Hands: PVD-treated anthracite gray and red anodized aluminum with Super-Luminova
Crown: 5N pink gold
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching 
Limited series: 88
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 76,000.-

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