Saturday, January 21, 2017

De Bethune DB25L Milky Way

In their latest horological masterpiece, De Bethune recreates the captivating beauty of the Milky Way on its elegant blue dial featuring polished rose gold hands and a spherical moon-phase indicator in palladium and flame-blued steel.
De Bethune Manufacture's craftsmen have used an artful combination of elements and materials to encapsulate in gold and glass a few drops of the essence of the skies. Dexterous fingers have shaped a titanium mirror and, through the flames, an experienced eye has brought forth its infinite chromatic richness. This unique blue oxide structure plays host to the captive stars. First, small white gold spheres set one by one by hand stand out from the deep sky blue. Then, their abundance is revealed under the fiery dart of the laser. Draped in a fine layer of pure gold leaf, they shine and sparkle, casting out subtle golden glints of colour. Finally, a blued steel and platinum spherical moon-phase stands guard majestically over this Elysium.
And yet, it is precisely time that inhabits this proud platinum case with hollowed lugs. Centuries of knowledge and experience stand alongside the most contemporary of materials and innovations in an alliance where the spirit of the great master watchmakers of the past is reborn each second. Here, the respiration of a balance spring on its silicon core echoes the age-old transformation of energy into units of time. There, the steel case back of its mechanical body, polished to a mirror shine, celebrates a forgotten knowledge once reserved solely for the emperors of China.
Emerging from this fusion of past and present is the future of mechanical time, that of twenty-first century watchmaking. However, also underlining the outstanding mastery of the De Bethune Manufacture artists and the unique challenge they face in their work, is its apparent simplicity, like that of starry nights. For, in their quest for perfection and the absolute, the essential reigns supreme and the best always triumphs over pointless complexities. Even the dazzling diamonds encircling it show modesty and restraint beside the celestial clouds of gold on its dial.

Technical details
Model: DB25L Milky Way
Reference: DB25JLPS3V2

Functions
Hours, minutes, spherical moon-phase at 12 o’clock, Power reserve on case back

Movement
DB2105v2
Type: Mechanical caliber with manual winding
Adjustment: Using the crown (3 positions) for winding, setting the spherical moon-phase and setting the time
Number of parts: 286
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel - A De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring - De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve - De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indicator with precision of one lunar day every 122 years- De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system - De Bethune Patent (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Plate and barrel bridge cover in mirror-polished steel
Hand snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Display
Hours and minutes hands in polished rose gold
Spherical moon-phase indicator in palladium and flame-blued steel with precision of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Power reserve indicator on the back

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with white gold stars pin joined by hand
Milky Way patterns produced by micro laser striking gilded with 24 carats gold leafs

Case
Material: Platinum set with 66 baguette-cut diamonds
Diameter: 44,6 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: Sapphire (1800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Back: Open back in polished white gold and sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double anti-reflective coating

Strap
Extra-supple alligator skin with alligator padding
Buckle and ardillon in platinum

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