Monday, January 23, 2017

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Flawless

Jacob & Co. blends the intricate world of high jewelry with that of haute horlogerie to introduce the latest addition to the brand’s signature Astronomia collection, the Astronomia Flawless.

While the timepiece offers an exquisite display of immaculate aesthetics, there is multifaceted meaning behind the new Astronomia’s name. “Flawless” not only refers to the watch’s impeccable appearance, but it is also the term for the highest grade of diamond clarity according to the Gemological Institute of America’s diamond grading scale. For a diamond to be declared flawless, no inclusions or blemishes should be visible under 10x magnification. Flawless is therefore a fitting benchmark for Jacob & Co.’s evolutionary interpretation of the Astronomia collection’s signature sapphire case.
The large sapphire crystal has been a consistent design element of Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia collection since the introduction of the first Astronomia Tourbillon in 2014. The transparency of the case allows the movement of the gravitational triple axis tourbillon be clearly visible from multiple angles. Last year, Jacob & Co. increased the transparency of the case and the visibility of the Astronomia’s complications with the 2016 Baseworld novelty, the Astronomia Clarity. Nonetheless, in the spirit of constant improvement, the Astronomia Flawless again elevates the level of transparency offered by the Astronomia Clarity, with the introduction of the Astronomia Flawless’s monoblock sapphire crystal case. The sophisticated craftsmanship of the monoblock sapphire crystal creates the illusion that the complications within the case are floating effortlessly in midair.

To achieve this appearance, a number of the collection’s components that were previously produced in precious metal are instead made in sapphire crystal: the one-piece case middle and lugs, the dial (a blue-coloured sapphire) and even the buckle.

These changes have added a considerable layer of complexity to the new watch, as the production of the case middle alone requires 15 individual steps that account for around 326 hours of work, the case back requires around 297 hours of work, the dial 280 hours and the buckle 295 hours.  Due to long hours of work required in the production of each parts of this highly complex watch, for example its requires 37 weeks of production for just the sapphire components, only nine individually numbered pieces of the Astronomia Flawless will be made.

The manually wound JCAM16 caliber with its triple axis tourbillon, rotating earth and sun and subsidiary hour and minute dial has also evolved in the Astronomia Flawless. A rose-gold finish has been applied to the titanium bridges and the central axis is adorned with a 2.23-carat Jacob Cut® yellow diamonds representing the sun, in addition to the 1-carat diamond, which also has the 288 facets of the Jacob Cut®. Although the dial appears the same as on other Astronomia models, the dial on the Astronomia Flawless is actually made out of sapphire crystal and has been given a blue coating.

Technical details
Case
Diameter: 50mm
Thickness: 25.45mm
Material: Sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment
Case back: Sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment and silver metallization
Bows: Winding and time-setting via two 18-carat rose gold bows
Crystal: Unique domed sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement
Caliber: Jacob & Co. in-house manually-wound calibre JCAM16
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 17.15mm
Material: Titanium with rose gold finish and sapphire crystal barrel bridge
Components: 367
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3 Hz)
Jewels: 42
Finishing: Plate and bridges: bevelled and polished by hand, drawn flanks, circular graining, polished jewel sinks, polished screws; barrel: circular graining

Functions
Central axis, adorned with an exclusive spherical 288-facet Jacob Cut® yellow sapphire, with patented differential gear system that performs one revolution around the dial in 20 minutes, with four branches:
Subsidiary hour and minute dial
Exclusive 288-facet spherical Jacob Cut® white diamond (weight: 1 carat), rotating about its own axis once every 60seconds
Magnesium globe with continents depicted in rose gold and oceans in blue lacquer, rotating about its own axis once every 60seconds
Triple-axis gravitational tourbillon cage rotating about its own axis once in 60 seconds, about the axis of its branch from the central axis once every 5 minutes, plus the complete rotation about the central axis once every 20 minutes

Dial
Blued sapphire dial
Hands: Hand-finished in rose gold

Strap
Rubber
Buckle: Sapphire crystal

Limited Edition
9 individually numbered pieces

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