Monday, January 23, 2017

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Octopus

Inspired from the complex nature and symmetrical composition of Octopus, Jacob & Co. has created a unique edition of its Astronomia model: the Astronomia Octopus, which houses a hand-crafted sculpture of an octopus through the Astronomia’s signature gravitational triple-axis tourbillon.

Taking into consideration both the sophistication of the design and the comfort of the wearer, the intricately handcrafted sculpture of the Octopus is composed of titanium. While titanium is ideal for adorning the movement without adding significant weight to the piece (the octopus weighs just 2.83 grams) the material is notoriously difficult to engrave or sculpt, making it all the more difficult to bring the piece to life.
In the typical manner of an octopus, the sculpture appears fully entwined in the JCAM16 manually wound caliber. Its tentacles wind around the Earth, the sun, the time and the triple-axis tourbillon. The central part of the movement, where the octopus is screwed to the central axis so that it may revolve around the dial like all the other components, is too modified from the Astronomia collection’s prior models to accommodate the new gold-plated sculpture.

The first Astronomia model to include a sculpture in the core of its composition, the Astronomia Octopus is displayed as a true work of art, cased in a new sapphire monoblock casing that allows the sculpture and complications to be admired from multiple angles. The entirely transparent monoblock case was originally created for the brand’s limited addition Astronomia Flawless. In both models, it creates the illusion that the complications inside the timepiece are suspended in mid-air, as the only non-sapphire elements are the two bows on the back to wind the movement and set the time.

The sapphire components of the Astronomia Octopus take a staggering 37 weeks to produce and each component requires at least a dozen different operations in its production. This excludes the time it takes to engrave the piece and the octopus sculpture, as well as the time allocated to assemble and meticulously hand-finish the movements.

Since its initial launch just under three years ago, Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia Tourbillon has consistently evolved with the introduction of each new model. Because of the additional layer of complexity added by the octopus, the Astronomia Octopus is piece-unique.

Technical details
Case
Diameter: 50mm
Thickness: 25.45mm
Material: Sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment
Case back: Sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment and silver metallization
Bows: Winding and time-setting via two 18-carat rose gold bows
Crystal: Unique domed sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement
Caliber: Jacob & Co. in-house manually-wound calibre JCAM16
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 17.15mm
Material: Titanium with rose gold finish and sapphire crystal barrel bridge
Components: 367
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3 Hz)
Jewels: 42
Finishing: Plate and bridges: bevelled and polished by hand, drawn flanks, circular graining, polished jewel sinks, polished screws; barrel: circular graining

Functions
Central axis, adorned with a hand-engraved octopus sculpture in titanium with rose-gold PVD coating and patented differential gear system that performs one revolution around the dial in 20 minutes, with four branches:
1) Subsidiary hour and minute dial
2) Exclusive 288-facet spherical Jacob Cut® white diamond (weight: 1 carat), rotating about its own axis once every 60seconds
3) Magnesium globe rotating about its own axis once every 60seconds
4) Triple-axis gravitational tourbillon cage rotating about its own axis once in 60 seconds, about the axis of its branch from the central axis once every 5 minutes, plus the complete rotation about the central axis once every 20 minutes

Dial
Titanium dial
Hands: Hand-finished in rose gold

Strap
Rubber
Buckle: Sapphire crystal

Limited Edition
Unique piece

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