Sunday, January 22, 2017

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica Mystérieuse

This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre enhances its highly artistic Hybris Artistica™ series by presenting Hybris Artistica mystérieuse, an exclusive, high end mechanical watch collection which comprises three one-of-a-kind ladies’ models and a men’s model available in a limited edition of five.

As the name indicates, these exceptional timepieces have a shared secret. They indicate the hour and minute with rare accuracy – but without hands. Time is drawn into the dance of a suspended orbital flying tourbillon within a finely worked dial. The hour can be read from the tourbillon’s position on the dial, while the flange disc shows the passing minutes. Powering these remarkable timepieces is the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941, entirely designed and hand-assembled within the walls of the Manufacture.

Ladies’ Timepieces
Inspired from its expertise and long tradition in the manufacturing of mysterious ladies’ watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created three unique ladies’ pieces under the Hybris Artistica mystérieuse line.

This limited edition of three unique pieces in white, blue, or red has been benefitted from the infinite talents of its Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares”, such as skeletonisation or snow-setting, a technique that was invented and developed exclusively by the Manufacture’s artisans. Behind its stunning mother-of-pearl dial, beats the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941, a movement tailor-made for this watch.

This magical timepiece for women alternately conceals and reveals its treasures in an exquisite demonstration of how fine watchmaking can make the aesthetic codes of Haute Couture its own: a white gold case encrusted with snow-set diamonds; a mother-of-pearl dial covered in gold leaf, with embedded gemstones; a sapphire or ruby devoted to indicating the minutes.
Assuredly it is an objet d’art, where an orbital flying tourbillon decorated in gilded ivy leaves takes 60 seconds to pivot on itself and 12 hours to rotate around the dial, all the while giving an accurate indication of the hour. The design of the tourbillon carriage has been revisited to form a graceful five-pointed star shape.

On the flange around the dial, we can discover a delightfully geometrical pattern made up of tiny ivy leaves in mother-of-pearl appears in transparency like a leitmotif. This refined trail forms the backdrop for a perfectly round precious stone – a sapphire or a ruby, depending on the model – which turns like a point of light to indicate the minutes.

The ivy leaf is crafted with remarkable finesse in depictions from several angles, forming a stunningly beautiful tableau. To further enhance the aesthetic impact, the Manufacture’s artisans have employed snow-setting, a technique that originated with Jaeger-LeCoultre.

As your hand turns the case over, a new surprise can be guessed at in the magnificent weight of pink gold. Its entirely hand-engraved full disc features a skeletonised finish that reproduces the hammered ivy leaf design. Skeletonisation is reserved for one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces, as this technique allows the beauty of the movement and parts to be stylised by bringing to life a sumptuous embroidery of metal.

Men’s Timepieces
In the same vein as the Master Grande Tradition, this watch boasts the inimitable stamp of Hybris Artistica that propels it to the very zenith of Fine Watchmaking. One of the most unexpected aspects of this sculptural piece is the way its skeletonised pattern is reproduced both on the front face and on the reverse. Looking at this design, some see lace, others a mosaic, others still discern stained glass. Everyone is free to choose their own interpretation of the symbolism in this new Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece, which constitutes a uniquely beautiful way to present the mystery of time and is limited to a series of only five pieces.

With its exclusive automatic movement – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941 – its architectural dial, and its Gothic design inspiration, this timepiece immediately stands out from the crowd thanks to its captivating details: the blue aventurine dial with an overlay of skeletonised mother-of-pearl lace, the flying tourbillon and pointed archshaped carriage, the pink gold case, the screwed lugs, and the movement decorated by hand.
In a play of light and shadow, an embroidery of skeletonised mother-of-pearl draws a filigreed pattern of symmetrical arabesques across the blue aventurine dial. This geometrical tableau of perfect proportions sweeps from the flying tourbillon that opens onto the dial with its hand-guillochéd background, swelling to a crescendo in the flange with its distinct hour-markers. A 42-millimetre pink gold case envelops all this artistry.

The absence of hands meant the dial could be lifted up a few millimetres in such a way as to reveal the intricate workmanship that brought it to life. From this close, even the tiniest details take on a whole new dimension. An incredible sense of depth is achieved by the semi-precious aventurine scattered with sparkling glints. Unrivalled in their refinement, they scintillate like constellations of stars on the lugs, case-band, and oscillating weight.
Another impressive feat enhances its mechanical performance: this watch boasts an orbital flying tourbillon, considered one of the most prestigious complications. Designed with no need for a bridge, the tourbillon is free to pursue its perfectly orchestrated trajectory under the eye-catching pointed arch-shaped carriage set above it. The hour can be read from its position on the dial, while a discreet arrow indicates the minutes on the flange. The name of this watch without hands is indeed well chosen. Although it seems the mystery of time no longer holds any secrets for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master watchmakers, it clearly never ceases to inspire them.
Notice that the mother-of-pearl applied on the dial is not the only skeletonised element. The oscillating weight was also decorated using this technique, so emblematic of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares”.

Skeletonisation is a traditional craft, executed by hand to a precision of a hundredth of a millimetre. The engraver uses specific tools to work on each part of the movement individually, paring back the material as much as possible without disrupting the way it functions. Following a long series of delicate operations (filing down, chamfering, polishing, chiselling, assembling) the movement is transformed into enchantingly patterned lacework.

Technical details
Collection: Hybris Artistica mystérieuse
 
Ladies’ Timepieces

Movement
Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941
28’800 vibrations per hour
50-hour power-reserve
441 parts
40 jewels
10.85 mm in height

FunctionsHour: displayed by the orbital flying tourbillon
Minute: displayed by the ruby positioned on a rotating disc

Case
18-carat white gold
39mm in diameter
Height: 13.2 mm
Case-back: sapphire / Exhibition case back
Water-resistance: 5 bar

Dial
Snow-set ivy leaves on mother-of-pearl
Hand painted leaves
Mystery display of time without hands

Bracelet/Strap
Satin
18-carat white gold snow-set folding buckle

Edition
Unique piece for each color (white, blue, red)

References
White: Q34234X5
Blue: Q34234X6
Red: Q34234X7

Men’s Timepieces

Movement
Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941
28’800 vibrations per hour
50-hour power-reserve
441 parts
40 jewels
10.85 mm in height

Functions
Hour: displayed by the orbital flying tourbillon
Minute: displayed by the (gold powder) arrow positioned on a rotating disc

Case
18-carat pink gold
Squeletonised
Aventurine on lugs
42 mm in diameter
Height: 13.8 mm
Case-back: Sapphire/exhibition squeletonised caseback
Water-resistance: 5 bar

Dial
Squeletonised
Aventurine
Mother of pearl
Mystery display of time without hands

Bracelet/Strap
Black leather
18-carat pink gold squeletonised folding buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 5 pieces

Reference

Q52224X8

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