Saturday, January 14, 2017

Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Night Blue for William & Son

On demand of its exclusive retailer in London, William & Son, Laurent Ferrier has created a special 18k rose-gold and platinum limited edition of the new Galet Traveller Night Blue, applying red gold-leaf to highlight the United Kingdom's position in the enamel dial.

The UK-only edition is based on the Galet Traveller movement LF 230.1 - which offers 80 hours of power reserve and functions with a so called "natural" escapement - and is visible through the sapphire case back on which the name William & Son has been engraved in a unique blue lacquer displayed at 12 o'clock.

The centre of this dial is adorned with a convex planisphere depicting the five continents in 18K white gold, surrounded by a blue enamel sea. Crafted using the age-old champlevé technique, the area destined to host the seas and oceans is hollowed out from the material before the enamel is applied. The difficulty lies in performing this enamelling on a domed surface serving to re-produce the rotundity of the Earth and in highlighting the central five-continent motif. The edge of the continents slopes gently towards the coastlines, displaying various shades of blue.
The three-dimensional effect is reinforced by several aesthetic details. The emerged territories are painted and the world’s cities seen by night are depicted by gold leaf-adorned dots further enhancing the contrast with the oceans. Hand-finished with a circular satin-brushed decoration, the outer gold ring dips towards the central sphere, thereby accentuating the illusion of a raised globe literally balanced on top of the dial.

The unique aesthetic of the model is heightened by the drop-shaped hour-markers whose tips extend beyond the ring, giving the impression that they are literally suspended in the void.

1- Cells are carved on the metal plate (dial)
2- Delicate enamel is embedded in the carved surface of the dial
The piece is then fired until the enamel melts
3- After cooling the surface of the object is polished and continents painted
4- 5N red gold leafs are applied on the enamel dial to highlight the United Kingdom's position

The Galet Traveller Globe Night Blue was developed in such a way as to combine practicality with an overall balance of the timepiece, thus ensuring readability and performance in all circum-stances.

Two perfectly symmetrical oblong pushers delicately integrated into the left-hand side of the case serve to adjust the local time indicated by the central hand. When passing from one time zone to another, this central hours hand may be moved forward or backwards in one-hour increments by successive presses. The upper pusher moves the hand one hour forwards, while the lower one moves it backwards, all without affecting the minutes hand.

In addition to this fast adjustment of local time, the date appearing through an aperture at 3 o’clock automatically jumps when the hand passes midnight, thereby adjusting without any separate intervention to the transitions between different time zones. Meanwhile, the 9 o’clock aperture keeps track of the reference time (home time). The 24-hour display provides a natural distinction between daytime and night-time hours.

The Galet Traveller Globe is powered by self-winding LF Calibre 230.01, incorporating the dual-time adjustment mechanism as well as the date. It features a system of unidirectional automatic winding via a pawl-fitted micro-rotor, backed by a double direct-impulse échappement naturel. This escapement is distinguished by the fact that the balance receives two direct impulses for each oscillation, thereby guaranteeing excellent efficiency matched by an 80-hour power reserve.

The decoration and finishing are performed in keeping with the spirit of Haute Horlogerie, combining extreme dexterity with artisan-style expertise. The sapphire crystal case-back of the Galet Traveller Globe enables one to admire the exquisite refinement of this craftsmanship and was engraved in a specific blue lacquer at 12 o'clock with the name of William & Son for this specific limited edition. In addition to the Côtes de Genève décor on the bridges and the circular graining on the mainplate, the sides are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished. The hand chamfering is particularly visible in the finesse of the interior angles, highlighting the authentic respect for the watchmaking art consistently cultivated by Laurent Ferrier.

The Galet Traveller Globe Night Blue for William & Son will be limited to five pieces in rose gold and platinum.

Technical details
References: Red Gold: LCF012.R5 / Platinum: LCF012.P1

Movement
Self-winding Calibre LF230.01
Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system
Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance
Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA technology
Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock
Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic date correction
Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 5.80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
288 parts
44 jewels
Reference LCF0012.G1.NGE08

Case
5N red gold or platinum
Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
Thickness: of the material 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 13.70 mm
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back engraved at 12 o’clock with a William & Son logo
Water-resistant to 30 metres
“Ball-shaped” crown in 5N red gold or platinum

Dial
In 18K gold, spherical centre in translucent blue champlevé enamel with a circular satin-brushed sloping blue rim
Drop-shaped hour-markers in 18K white gold
Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock

Hands
18K white gold
“assegai-shaped”

Strap
Hand-sewn blue alligator leather, Alcantara lining
16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp, in 18K white gold

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