Sunday, January 1, 2017

Lundis Bleus Watches - Introduction

Lundis Bleus is a new, affordable luxury watch brand founded by - Johan Storni and Bastien Vuilliomenet – two friends who began their horology adventures together from the Watch Making School of La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland back in 90s. After working with some reputed watch and movement manufacturing companies for a period of two decades, Johan and Bastien established their own watch brand in 2015 and launched the debut watch model “Ref. 1100” in November 2016.
Lundis Bleus, Ref 1100
Based in the famous watchmaking city of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Lundis Bleus aims to provide an accessible alternative to independent watch-making by serving the customers who desire to acquire highly quality mechanical wristwatches in lesser price.

Beginnings
Having both earned their watchmaker diplomas from the watchmaking school of La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland in 1998, Johan Storni and Bastien Vuilliomenet chose to continue their studies. Johan pursued his training by earning a degree as a restoration technician at the International Museum of Watchmaking of La Chaux-de Fonds, and later got another one as a watchmaking construction technician. Bastien started by getting a professional technical maturity, which allowed him to get into the University of Applied Arts of La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he earned his degree in industrial design.
Johan worked for renowned houses such as Renaud & Papi (Audemars Piguet) and La Joux-Perret, and since 2008 has been working for Richard Mille in the development of watch movements and mechanisms. Bastien started his professional life by working in the design studio Etude de Style in Neuchâtel, and he stayed there from 2004 to 2007. He later went on to working as a watch designer and product design manager for Corum Watches for 6 years, and as of 2014 he became a product manager for the private-label company Roventa-Henex where he is still in charge of managing watchmaking development projects for many confidential clients.
 In 2015, they jointly established Lundis Bleus watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The brand unveiled its first timepiece, the Ref. 1100 in November 2016.

Inspiration
In French language, Lundis Bleus means the Blue Mondays, which refers to a self-granted form of freedom prevailed in 19th century Europe where the most skilled and well-paid workers would not go to work on Mondays as they go for rest and entertainment after long and strenuous working schedule of 15-16 hours a day. Just like freelance professionals of modern era. However with the arrival of industrialization and the reduction of working hours in the early 20th century, the workers gradually lost their independence and freedom, becoming employees with shorter, rationalized and structured workdays – the end of Blue Mondays had arrived. With its brand name, Lundis Bleus, pays respect to the independent spirit of 19th century horology professionals who used to enjoy the Blue Mondays after stressful work schedule.
The Lundis Bleus logo is in itself a graphical interpretation of an alcohol molecule, to evoke the conviviality and overall humanity of the brand.
Manufacturing
To achieve the brand’s mission of creating excellent timepieces with affordable price tag, both Johan and Bastien decided to go out of the traditional way of producing SWISS MADE labeled watches. Creating a mechanical watch like Lundis Bleus Ref.1100 under USD1500 with 100% Swiss Made components is impractical today due to the high costs involved in the manufacturing of watch parts with in Switzerland. So, in order to keep its timepieces more affordable, the brand outsources major parts of the watch including the movements from reputable manufacturers based out of Switzerland. For example, the brand uses the well designed, accurate, reliable and repairable Japanese movement Miyota 9015 to equip its Ref. 1100 watches.

Lundis Bleus owns a fully functional horology workshop at number 88 of the Léopold-Robert Avenue in La Chaux-de-Fonds, were both Johan and Bastien look after design, 3D engineering, technical drawings, selection of the suppliers, project management, validation of the manufacturing technical drawings, aesthetic and technical inspections of components. In this work shop they also adjust the rate and the beat error, changing the date disc, cleaning and pad printing the oscillating weights, casing, checking the rate and the water-resistance, checking the aesthetic and functionality of the finished product.
The work shop also has a kiln-fired enamel machinery for finishing of watch dials in-house. Besides these activities, the brand is also undertaking commercial operations like expedition and customer service, business management, marketing, communication, public relations and photography from this workshop.

Regarding origin of the components, Lundis Bleus maintains complete transparency. The manufacturing of the cases, buckles, glasses (sapphire and mineral), galvanic dials, modified calendar discs, hands, spring bars, and boxes are outsourced to renowned companies based in China and Taiwan. The leather straps are made in Thailand. The warranty cards are made in France. The watch movements are from Miyota. The fine silver dial plates for enamelling are made by a proto-typist in Switzerland, while the enamelling itself is done at Lundis Bleus.

The Ref.1100 Watch
The debut model from Lundis Bleus, Ref.1100 has a basin-shaped case band design extended by the radius of the box type crystal on the top and the radius of the case back at the bottom. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the watch case measures 40mm diameter and 11mm thickness.
The case is tested for water resistance up to 30 meters. The lugs, which are a part of the case back and therefore visibly separated from the case band, enhanced the basin-shape design by giving a subtle visual effect made of curves. The logo on the case back is emphasized by the inner colored crystal, giving it a stained glass feeling.
The Ref.1100 wristwatch houses a Japanese Miyota 9015 self winding movement featuring an oscillating weight with specific pad printing done at Lundis Bleus workshop. This self winding movement offers power reserve up to 42 hours when fully wound.
The Ref.1100 boasts a brass dial featuring dual layered design with both plates and applied parts finished in galvanic plating. Bottom plate of the dial features grained pattern made by stamping and the upper plate cut and decorated with a circular satin finish. 12 stick shaped applied indices form as hour markers and the minute track is pad printed in a matt grey varnish. 
A polished applied window at 6 o’clock indicates the date. A domed circular applied Lundis Bleus logo is placed at 12ó clock. Crafted in brass the minute, hour(both are Skeleton type, flat cut) and central second hand (Flat cut) are finished with galvanic plating. Each timepiece comes with a genuine leather strap featuring Rembordé construction and available with choice of colours depend upon the version.
Lundis Bleus watches can be purchased by visiting the brand’s e-shop. They also offer the clients a 5-year warranty against all possible manufacturing defects.

Technical details
Model: Ref. 1100
 
Case
Round shape; Diameter: Ø40mm
Material: Stainless steel EN1.4404 (316L)
Water-resistant to 3 bar
Material indication «316L» and individual number are made by deep acid etching between the lugs
Stainless steel casing ring
The assembled watch has a total thickness on 11mm
Crown in stainless steel EN 1.4435 (316L) with 7 notches, all polished (except the micro-blasted notches). Its ergonomic shape prevents the crown of scratching the wrist
Case back: In stainless steel EN.1.4404 (316L). Top surfaces of the lugs have a satin finish and the area around the logo is micro-blasted, the rest is all polished. «Lundis Bleus» is done by stamping. The logo is made by cutting and then soldered. The case back is assembled to the case band by 4 screws in stainless steel.
Top crystal: Domed box type shape in sapphire. Ø37.65mm for a total thickness of 4mm to the apex. Both sides have hard, colorless and multi-layers anti-reflective coating. Press-fitted on a non-visible I-ring.
Bottom crystal: Flat shape in hardened mineral glass. Colored in blue or red from the block. Press-fitted from the inside of the case back on a non-visible I-ring and held in place by a stainless steel ring.

Movement
Japanese Miyota 9015, automatic unidirectional winding
111/2’’’ (Ø25.60mm, thickness of 3,90mm, hand-fitting excluded)
Autonomy of 42h
24 jewels
28’800 vibrations/hour(4Hz)
Oscillating weight with specific pad printing done at the workshop
Rate accuracy checked and adjusted at the workshop to +-10seconds/day

Dial
Double plate design (in brass)
Plates in galvanic plating
All applied parts have galvanic plating
Bottom plate with grained pattern made by stamping
Upper plate cut and decorated with a circular satin finish.
Domed circular applied logo, Ø4.00mm. 12 stick shape applied indices. Polished applied date window at 6 o’clock
Polished applied central chimney used to enhance the lateral view on hand-fitting
Date disc with specific Lundis Bleus font and back-ground color matching dial main color
Minute track is pad printed in a matt grey varnish
Opening of Ø33.00mm

Hands
Flat cut hour and minute hands, in brass, with galvanic plating
Skeleton type with specific Lundis Bleus shape
Flat cut central second hand with long counterweight, in brass, with galvanic plating

Dial Versions
Ref.1100-01 = galvanic silver background with galvanic rhodium applied parts, galvanic rhodium plated hands
Ref.1100-02 = dark galvanic nickel background with galvanic rhodium applied parts, galvanic rhodium plated hands
Ref.1100-03 = galvanic rose gold 4N background with galvanic rose gold 4N applied parts, galvanic rose gold 4N plated hands
Ref.1100-04 = galvanic silver background with galvanic rose gold 4N applied parts, galvanic rose gold 4N plated hands
Ref.1100-05 = dark galvanic nickel background with galvanic rose gold 4N applied parts, galvanic rose gold 4N plated hands
Ref.1100-06 = galvanic rose gold 4N background with galvanic rhodium applied parts, galvanic rhodium plated hands

Strap
Leather strap
Width: 19mm, straight
Long part 115mm, short part 77mm
Rembordé construction (turned-in) without stitching
Large fixed loop and narrow removable loop
Top surface in split cowhide leather (suede)
Lining in electric blue or scarlet red color split cowhide leather (suede)
Buckle: Tongue buckle. Stainless steel EN1.4404 (316L). Top surface with satin finish, sides polished and back micro-blasted. The sides are slightly sloping echoing the lugs.

Strap styles
Ref.1100-01 = taupe with blue lining
Ref.1100-02 = dark olive green with blue lining
Ref.1100-03 = medium eggshell with red lining
Ref.1100-04 = medium tobacco brown with blue lining
Ref.1100-05 = medium olive green with blue lining
Ref.1100-06 = dark tobacco brown with red lining

Presentation box
160x160x90mm. In MDF with matt grey varnish finish
Lining in grey fabric
Hinges in steel
Push button and double bevel to facilitate the opening

Warranty
5 years warranty against manufacturing defects
The first overhaul is free of charge and must be requested within the 5 years period. The watch is delivered along with its engraved stainless steel warranty card. The worldwide shipping is free of charge.

Contact details
Lundis Bleus, Storni & Vuilliomenet SNC
Av. Léopold-Robert 88
2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
www.lundis-bleus.com

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