Legendary Swiss watch brand Angelus made a comeback in 2015 by unveiling U10 Tourbillon Lumière. This mechanical marvel pays tribute to to some of the most influential and forward-thinking designers from the 60s and 70s, such as Dieter Rams and Achille Castiglioni. With its unique design and especially its vitrine-type construction, the U10 offers an extraordinary platform to showcase not only its oversized tourbillon, but also miniature works of wearable art. Angelus now presents an artistic line based on the U10 platform.
The first unique piece from this Angelus U10 art collection pays tribute to the old tradition of Mexican Calaveras. These are part of a very ancient tradition of memento mori. The Calaveras are mainly used in the Mexican celebration of the Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos), where people remember and honor those who have passed on with calaveras, poems and other forms of symbolism. The U10 Tourbillon Calavera is a unique piece in stainless steel, which launches the Angelus U10 art collection.
On one hand the U10 Tourbillon Calavera is classic haute horlogerie. Its dead beat seconds complication – where the second hand advances in full steps of one second – derives from 18th-century pocket watches; the movement bridges and plates are in traditional nickel-silver that is bevelled and polished; and the traditional 2.5Hz / 18,000 vph of the screwed balance with Breguet-overcoil is a throwback to some of Angelus’ early pocket watches.
And yet, the modernist display, innovative engineering and state-of-the-art materials and finishing ensure that the U10 Tourbillon Calavera can equally be viewed as a paragon of cutting-edge, contemporary watchmaking.
The generously-proportioned – 62.75 mm x 38 mm x 15 mm – case, which took over two years to develop, features no fewer than seven sapphire crystals. All the crystals are bevelled, polished and subtly protrude from the case, creating expressive three-dimensionality.
Four of these crystals – including one wrapping 90° over the end of the case – surround the tourbillon, allowing unfettered views to the beating heart of the timepiece. The large windows also let light flood in and shine a spotlight on this mechanical centrepiece. The vitrine aspect of the tourbillon space is cleverly enhanced by light-absorbing, matte black PVD finish on the interior walls encasing the tourbillon.
The stainless steel used to make the case is BO-988 specific steel. This annealed steel is of a higher quality than the usual 316L steel found in timepiece cases because it contains fewer impurities, is less liable to corrode and is more biocompatible. Its finer grain size allows for a better standard of polishing and higher level of finish.
With its generous 16.25 mm diameter, the hand-polished tourbillon cage is crafted from weight-saving stainless steel, while titanium has been chosen for the tourbillon bridge due to its strength and shock-absorbing qualities. The flying tourbillon configuration does not need an upper supporting bridge and offers unimpeded views to the top of the regulator. The combination of nickel-silver, titanium and stainless steel in a watch movement is unique and especially the magenta lacquer for the bridge of the tourbillon cage.
A large diameter one-minute tourbillon requires significant energy, which is amply supplied by the dual main spring barrels. When fully wound, the Angelus A100 calibre provides 90 hours of optimal power. The two mainspring barrels are optimally sized in a special ratio for a flatter torque curve, which maximizes accuracy throughout for the full 90 hours.
While the dead beat seconds hand’s step-by-step motion is the result of a traditional horological complication, the stepped seconds is also reminiscent of quartz watches. Completing the indications on the side of the case is the intuitive linear power reserve featuring a rhodium-treated hand filled with blue lacquer.
Model: U10 Tourbillon Calavera
Hours, minutes, central dead beat seconds, one-minute flying tourbillon, linear power reserve indication
Calibre: A-100, mechanical hand-winding tourbillon movement
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Dimensions: 52.10 mm x 30.40 mm
Thickness: 7.50 mm
Power reserve: 90 h, double barrel
Frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000 vph
Tourbillon: 16.25 mm cage diameter, Swiss lever escapement, screwed balance and hairspring with Breguet overcoil
Movement decoration: Nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with haute horlogerie finishing: satin-finished main plate with laser engraved pattern, satin-finished bridges with chamfered and polished edges, plate dial side with sunray satin-finish, circular satin-finished wheels, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads, two laser-engraved and enamelled ratchets
Tourbillon finishing: bead-blasted and satin-finished titanium tourbillon bridge, entire tourbillon cage with hand-chamfered and polished edges and either satin-finished or mirror-polished surfaces
Colour: Translucent-grey coated concave sapphire and black outer ring
Double white (C1) Super-LumiNova dots at 12 o’clock
Single white (C1) Super-LumiNova dots at 3, 6 & 9 o’clock
Hour, minute & power reserve hands: Brushed-finished, rhodium-treated, with blue lacquer
Dead beat seconds hand: Magenta lacquered
Material: BO-988 specific annealed stainless steel, bead-blasted and treated with black PVD on the inside
Dimensions: 62.75 mm x 38 mm
Thickness: 15 mm including sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals: 7 in total, treated with anti-reflective coating
Back: See-though sapphire crystal
Water-resistant: 30 m
Hand-stitched black alligator leather
Buckle: Stainless steel folding buckle
At the Geneva International Motor Show conducted in March this year, Swiss luxury watch brand Roger Dubuis has announced its partnership wit...
Matthias Naeschke creates luxurious and bespoke timepieces that excite passion and engagement for professionals and clock aficionados alike ...
Ulysse Nardin Jade is now available in 3 entirely stunning editions with handcrafted enamel dials. Complex and difficult to achieve, the d...
This year, Chopard presents a platinum version of the L.U.C Lunar One. Available in a 100-piece limited series, this new model boasts a deep...
H. Moser & Cie. presents a cosmic green dial version of its Venturer Small Seconds XL Purity model, an elegant watch which, at 43 mm, ha...
Unveiled in 2012 and since interpreted through a variety of limited editions, the X-TREM-1 series is one of the best sellers from Christophe...
Arnold & Son unveils a new rendition of its unique DBG dual-time (GMT) timepiece, the DBG Skeleton. An acronym for “double balance” and ...
Hamilton’s relationship with Hollywood began in 1951 – underwater – when actors playing naval diving heroes wore Hamilton watches in the Osc...
Of classic watch design and yet discretely sportive, this charismatic gent’s chronograph pays homage to times when in watchmaking chronograp...
Swiss luxury watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin updates its Traditionnelle collection by unveiling a 10 piece platinum limited edition ve...
- Glashütte Original Sixties Iconic Square Collectio...
- COVER Co194 Nobila Gent
- COVER Co188 Lady Diamond
- AHCI Celebrates its 30th Anniversary at Baselworld...
- H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purit...
- Hermès Nantucket TPM (Très Petit Modèle)
- COVER Co185 Neville
- COVER Co192 Chapman
- Imperium Watches Launches Kickstarter Campaign
- Isotope Rider Jumping-Hour
- Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometer
- COVER Co195 Nobila Lady
- COVER CoA9 Concerta Open Heart
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Galaxy
- TNT Navigator 1939 Limited Edition - Tribute to th...
- Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire Rose Gol...
- Grand Prix Superlative COSC
- Luminox Scott Cassell UVP 3500 Set Series
- Luminox Navy SEAL 3500 Series
- Luminox Black Ops 8880 Series
- Luminox - Sea Turtle 0300 Series & Sea Turtle Gian...
- Hamilton ODC X-03 Limited Edition
- Hamilton Ventura 2017
- Hamilton Intra-Matic 68 Limited Edition
- Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba
- Edox Les Bemonts Automatic Shade of Time
- BUBEN&ZORWEG's Head of Design Eberhard Hagmann Win...
- Bell & Ross BR03 RS17 Limited Edition
- Tag Heuer Appoints José María “Pechito” López as t...
- TAG Heuer CARRERA Heuer-01 Skeleton Manufacture Ch...
- Hublot Classic Fusion Italia Independent Collectio...
- Lebois & Co Avantgarde Date ‘3rd Re-launch Edition...
- Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe
- Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Tourbillon Rose Gold Aby...
- MB&F Legacy Machine No 2 Titanium
- Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Celestial
- Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Aérolithe Performance ...
- Hermès Cape Cod – New Versions
- Longines Celebrates Its 185th Anniversary
- Russian Actress Yulia Peresild Joins Rado as Globa...
- Breitling Colt Skyracer
- Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Mk IV
- Siegfriedson – Elegant Mechanical Timepieces from ...
- ANONIMO Watches - Brand Info
- Bell & Ross - BR03-92 Horograph & BR03-92 Horolum
- Ateliers Demonaco Opens Its First Boutique in the ...
- MATWATCHES HIGH COMMAND AG 7
- MATWATCHES “Les Etoiles du Sport Solidaires” (Unit...
- JS Watch Co Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer (N.A.R...
- Oris Hammerhead Limited Edition
- Harry Winston Avenue Classic Cherry Blossom
- ArtyA Son of Sea Tourbillon
- Danish Watch Brand Obaku Celebrates Its 10th Anniv...
- MATWATCHES AG7 XL Limited Edition
- CHRONOSWISS Sirius Flying Regulator Jumping Hour
- MATWATCHES Groupama Team France Regate Timer Limit...
- Moritz Grossmann ATUM Enamel Limited Edition
- ANGELUS U10 Tourbillon Calavera
- Mother's Day Special: Louis Moinet Stardance Moonp...
- AEROWATCH –1942 “Night & Day”
- Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle
- Shiv Timeless Inception Collection
- Movado Ultra Slim
- TAG Heuer Announces Its E-Commerce Partnership Agr...
- American Top Model Bella Hadid Is the New Female F...
- Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli - Double Fly...
- ArtyA “Coup de Foudre” for Valentine's Day
- Straton Watch Co. Syncro
- Voutilainen Vingt-8 ISO
- CVSTOS Re-Belle Collection
- Calvin Klein minimal
- Gucci Le Marché Des Merveilles Collection (New Add...
- Hamilton - Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono & Khaki X-Wind...
- Blancpain- Fifty Fathoms 38mm (Ref: 5100-1140-O52A...
- Tissot Ballade
- Rebellion Predator 2.0 Regulator Tourbillon
- Eberhard & Co. Scafograf GMT
- Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Rally Timer Count...
- Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Accia...
- Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 Carbotech™ 3 Days Auto...
- Styrman & Crew Launches Kickstarter Campaign
- Glashütte Original Celebrates 7th year of Berlinal...
- Glashütte Original Suggests Some Stunning Pair Wat...
- Maurice Lacroix AIKON Ladies 30mm & 35mm
- Maurice Lacroix AIKON Chrono 44mm with Blue Dial
- Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date Ladies New Model
- Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity Blue
- Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date Ladies Valentine’s Day...
- Vincent Calabrese Kronos Limited Edition
- Ulysse Nardin SuperCat Concept
- Seiko Presage Enamel Collection, Edition 2017
- Tissot T-Race MotoGPTM Automatic Limited Edition 2...
- Moritz Grossmann ATUM Polo Special Edition for the...
- Cuervo y Sobrinos Torpedo Pirata “Crono Day Date”
- Raymond Weil tango (New Versions)
- Michel Herbelin Inspiration 1947, Anniversary Watc...
- TAG Heuer FORMULA 1 Chronograph Manchester United ...
- TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Calibre Manufacture Chr...
- ArtyA Son of Earth Black Tobacco
- Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 1000 Limited Edit...
- ▼ February 2017 (115)
- ► 2016 (1573)
- ► 2015 (1717)
- ► 2014 (2437)
- ► 2013 (1671)
- ► 2012 (1319)
- ► 2011 (877)
- ► 2010 (1425)
- ► 2009 (2066)
- ► 2008 (517)