Monday, August 1, 2016

Moritz Grossmann TEFNUT 36

In keeping with the strict form vocabulary of the model family, the TEFNUT 36 represents a smaller variation featuring an elegant case with a diameter of 36 mm. On account of its enhanced comfort on the wrist, this universal format is convincing for male and female watch enthusiasts alike. The gently curved lugs also hug the wrist. Their tapered chamfers form a seamless transition to the strap.
With a subsidiary seconds dial at 7 o‘clock and the typical brown-violet hue of its numerals and hands, its face is an unmistakable brand ambassador. The well-balanced proportions are propagated in the calibre 102.0 movement as well. The display back showcases the work of art specially conceived for this model family. To achieve this degree of compactness, Grossmann‘s watchmakers chose a 3/5 plate with a straight cut and arranged the movement parts almost symmetrically.
The two-part dial of the TEFNUT 36 is made of solid silver. Its delicately dotted minute scale is complemented with crisply drawn brown-violet Arabic numerals. The nodal hands, manually crafted in an elaborate process, are rare. They are annealed to a brown-violet hue to match the numerals. Brown-violet creates an excellent contrast against the bright dial and makes reading the time a genuine pleasure.
A new hand shape was developed for the TEFNUT model family. It coordinates perfectly with the underlying design of the refined dials and at the same time elevates the hands to the status of a distinctive Grossmann signature element. They are manually crafted from steel, shaped to their final form with diamond files, and annealed to a brown-violet hue to achieve the best contrast against the dial.
The subsidiary seconds dial at 7o‘clock is a prominent hallmark of the TEFNUT 36. It is recessed into the main dial so that the minute and hour hands can hover above the minute scale as closely as possible. The fine yet very crisp seconds scale testifies to Grossmann‘s ambition to leverage the design elements of a precision timekeeping instrument. Endowed with a slender node for greater corporeality, the hand is a perfect complement to the seconds sub dial.
The exquisite face of the TEFNUT 36 is bordered by a slender gold bezel that can be optionally set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds. It adds a touch of feminine elegance to the intrinsically brilliant beauty of the watch. Together with the gold case, it complements an expressive, multifaceted whole.

The calibre 102.0 movement was newly conceived from the bottom up. With a diameter of only 26 mm and a height just under 4 mm, it is distinctly smaller and flatter than previous Moritz Grossmann movements.

With the straight cut of the train bridge and the newly configured going train, the calibre looks very well organised and showcases the deliberately arranged inner life of the watch. The ARCAP alloy of the wheels contrasts well against the German-silver movement elements. The large mainspring barrel suspended between bearings on both sides is an eye-catcher as well. Despite its compact dimensions, the classic pillar movement with the main plate and the 3/5 plate features all Grossmann hallmarks such as the cantilevered balance cock with the Grossmann micrometer screw, the raised chatons, the separately removable winder module, and the mass-optimised Grossmann balance. Because of the smaller diameter of the balance, the new calibre generation breathes at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and assures dependable rate stability.

Technical details

Movement
Manufacture calibre 102.0, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
Diameter: 26.0 mm, height: 3.45 mm
No. of parts: 196
Jewels: 26, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator:  Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws,
Nivarox 1 balance spring
Balance: Diameter: 10.0 mm, frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 48 hours when fully wound

Functions
Hours, minutes, and small seconds

Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold, for winding the watch and setting the time

Case
Three-part, in 750/000 gold
Diameter: 36.0 mm, height: 8.32 mm
Crystal and back:     Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Diamonds: Bezel set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds, 0.73 ct, TW vvsi1

Dial
Solid silver, printed   
Hands: Hand-crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

Strap
Alligator strap with prong buckle in 750/000 gold

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