Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Patek Philippe Calatrava "Squelette" Ref. 5180/1R-001

Presented at Baselworld 2017, the new Calatrava "Squelette" Ref. 5180/1R in 18K rose gold 5N showcases the extremely rare craft of skeletonization alongside magnificent engravings to imbue the elegant mechanism with enigmatic sensuousness.

This miniature opus of kinetic art houses a skeletonized version of the famous ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement. The 240 SQU caliber’s plate and bridges are pierced to the maximum extent possible to create a seductive view without compromising the reliability and functional integrity of the movement.  The plate is open-worked even above the barrel, exposing the coiled mainspring beneath the pierced contour of the Calatrava cross, which has been a registered Patek Philippe trademark for over one hundred years.
The "Patek Philippe Genève" brand signature is engraved on the remaining parts of the barrel frame around the Calatrava cross, which itself is also decorated. Additionally, the "PP" logo of the Patek Philippe Seal is making its first appearance of the 22K gold minirotor. In the end, the entire skeletonized movement chassis is plated with rose gold and then polished to match the case and bracelet. Now decidedly a work of art, the self-winding caliber 240 SQU is framed by a movement holder ring in 18K rose gold 5N. The ring itself is also skeletonized down to 12 spokes that serve as hour markers.
The great effort involved in skeletonization and engraving does not infringe any horological principles as evidenced by the rate parameters of the completed watch. With a tolerance of -3 to +2 seconds per day, its rate accuracy complies with the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. This is due not least to the Spiromax® balance spring made of high-tech Silinvar®. Its purple iridescent shimmer is readily visible in the totally skeletonized movement.
The caliber 240 SQU is accommodated in a round rose-gold Calatrava case which is reduced to a narrow frame and places emphasis on the movement. With its large-format sapphire crystal glass and caseback, it assures total transparency yet offers optimized protection and water resistance to 3 bar (30 meters).
The watch is worn on a supple bracelet in 18K rose gold, safely secured with a fold-over clasp.
Technical details
Model: Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R

Movement
Caliber 240 SQU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Skeletonized and engraved by hand
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 2.53 mm
Number of parts: 159
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
Winding rotor: 22K gold minirotor, unidirectionally winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
Hours and minutes

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold 5N
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o'clock): 39 mm
Width (9 to 3 o'clock incl. crown): 40.95 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.8 mm
Overall height (crystal to lugs): 7.0 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 6.7 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
None, for design reasons
12 spokes of the movement holder ring in 18K rose gold 5N as hour markers
Hour and minute hands: baton hands in 18K white gold, blackened

Bracelet
Supple bracelet in 18K rose gold 5N

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