Saturday, April 1, 2017

TUDOR Heritage Black Bay S&G

TUDOR’s famous Heritage Black Bay divers’ watch is now available in yellow gold and steel version. Equipped with the Manufacture Calibre MT5612, the Heritage Black Bay S&G model also introduces the date function to the Black Bay family.

An emblematic model celebrating 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches with extraordinary craftsmanship. Enhancing the Heritage Black Bay with yellow gold creates a new version named S&G, for Steel & Gold. In this version the lines and proportions of the Black Bay are retained, while the rotating bezel and the winding crown are made from yellow gold. The steel bracelet is also dressed in this precious metal on its central link giving it a more formal feel.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5612 is a variation of the movement first presented by TUDOR in 2015 and has been developed for the Heritage Black Bay S&G model. A date function features for the first time in the Black Bay family, adding to the hour, minute and second functions that are a feature of all Black Bay models. This high-performance calibre of superb precision and proven robustness can offer 70-hours power reserve. Beating to a frequency of 28,800 beats/ hour or 4 Hz, the movement is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring. This is held in place by a traversing bridge, guaranteeing its robustness. Furthermore, the movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
The bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links. Available in two designs, it also comes on a brown aged leather strap and folding clasp delivered with an additional brown fabric strap. Made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family from from the Saint-Étienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line.
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. The first in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan who stated that the form of an object must follow its function. Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch; an understated, functional and reliable tool. The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch. Each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field including some of the greatest military navies in the world.

TUDOR derived the characteristic aesthetic elements of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model from its history. The overall shape, as well as the domed dial and crystal, come from the first TUDOR divers’ watches. The prominent winding crown is a feature of the famous reference 7924 from 1958. The first TUDOR watch to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 f), known as the Big Crown. Finally, the characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, are typical of the watches delivered to the French Navy in the 1970s.

The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor” was frst registered as a brand on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex. In 1946, he founded the Montres Tudor SA company to produce watches that respect the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more accessible price point. Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice, the world over. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos and Style and since 2015 it has offered mechanical manufacture movements.

A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’s frst chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most important references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line. Unlike a traditional identical re-edition of a classic, the models in this line combine key aesthetics from history with modern day watchmaking. The standout Black Bay family, which forms part of the Heritage line, is a key example of this approach, bringing together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches.

Technical details
Model: Heritage Black Bay S&G
Reference 79733N

Case
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 60-minute graduated matt black anodized aluminium disc, gold markings
Winding crown: Yellow gold screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black, with black anodised aluminium winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)

Dial
Black, domed

Movement
Manufacture Calibre MT5612, Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter: 31.8 mm
Thickness: 6.5 mm
Jewels: 26 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours

Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop seconds for precise time setting

Bracelet
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch
Additional fabric strap with buckle included in the box

Retail Price
With bracelet: Swiss price (VAT incl.) CHF 4,750.–
With Strap: Swiss price (VAT incl.) CHF 3,600.–

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