Sunday, August 13, 2017

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Diamonds

The Logical One Secret Diamonds wristwatch by Romain Gauthier takes the union of art and haute horlogerie to a stunning new level thanks to this timepiece’s integrated cover which here serves as a canvas for the art of gem setting.

With Logical One Secret Diamonds, hours, minutes and seconds are embraced in a glittering ocean of diamonds cascading right down to the lugs. An incredible 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, totalling nearly seven carats, make for an ever-changing panorama of constantly glittering and sparkling reflections.
The craftsmanship required for invisible diamond setting is even more demanding than most in that it requires not one but two skilled artists: gem setter and diamond cutter.  To be invisibly set, each and every diamond has to be carefully grooved, with each cut running the very real risk of breaking the stone.

However, while invisibly set diamonds are very difficult to accomplish, the effect is spectacular as without visible support,the gems look larger and light can reflect and refract throughout, unimpeded in an explosion of brilliance.
With the diamonds decorating Logical One Secret Diamond’s cover and lugs taking centre stage, the Logical One Secret also features a mechanical work of art – the innovative, Grand Prix de Genève-winning movement of Logical One which was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated in-house at Manufacture Romain Gauthier. 

This pioneering movement features Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional chain-and-fusee style constant force mechanism. Gauthier’s invention contains a revolutionary ruby-link chain, snail cam and sapphire-lined mainspring barrel to offer nearly two days of constant force – the holy grail of precision watchmaking. 

Pressing the caseband pusher at 4 o’clock unlatches the cover, allowing the wearer to lift it up and admire Logical One Secret’s movement through the sapphire crystal.

The snail cam and ruby-link chain are on full show, as are bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms; polished screw heads with distinctive s-slot; balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights; hand-frosted bridges; and Romain Gauthier-invented triangular pallet lever.  

More of the outstanding movement can be viewed through the display back; bridges and plates bearing a number of angles – including several sharp internal angles – feature rounded bevels that have been meticulously created by hand. This type of eye-catching anglage brings out the inherent beauty of the components.

Logical One Secret Diamonds is a unique piece.

Technical details
Model: LOGICAL ONE SECRET DIAMONDS BY ROMAIN GAUTHIER
Unique piece
18k red gold cover invisibly set with 149 baguette diamonds IF to VVS/G+, 6.0 carats; lugs invisibly set with 32 baguette diamonds quality IF to VVS/G+, 0.9 carats

Features and indications
Art of gem setting: 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, 6.9 carats total
Movement features chain-and-fusee style constant force system, push-button winding and superlative hand finishing
Hours, minutes, small seconds and 46-hour power reserve indicator

Dial and hands
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in 18k red gold
Solid small seconds hand in 18k red gold
Subdials fixed via Romain Gauthier polished screws with distinctive s-slot
Clous de Paris decoration on black subdials

Movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Case material: 18k red gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock
Pusher for unlocking cover at 4 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k red gold pin buckle

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