Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Black Titanium


Prestige HMS Black Titanium features a black ADLC Grade 5 titanium case with an in-house, NAC-treated movement that has been decorated with Geneva waves. It is available with a choice of red dial accents and red strap stitching or white dial accents and white strap stitching.

The dial of Prestige HMS is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Hours and minutes are clearly legible in the large sub-dial at 12 o’clock engraved with the R.Gauthier logo, while cut-outs in the main dial reveal the intricate workings of the precision micro-mechanics of the in-house movement beneath. 
The visible, oscillating balance wheel at 7 o’clock and open seconds wheel at 5 o’clock add vibrancy and animation to an already rich visual experience of mechanics, texture, colour and composition.

The graceful 41mm diameter case is distinguished by pure, clean, unbroken lines around its full perimeter. However, it is the absence of a normal crown that reveals just how remarkable the movement is.  
Placing the crown flat on the caseback increases winding efficiency because energy does not need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components. The large diameter of the crown also enables the watch to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.   

While the dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house calibre is fully showcased, with virtually every component bearing Romain Gauthier's distinctive touch.  
The Vallée de Joux style finger bridges catch both the light and the eye with their seductive polished curves. The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing both elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique s-slot, enabling more torque to be applied during assembly. 

With its distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.  

The large movement bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and ratchet click. The cut-out features highly polished, sharp internal bevelled angles – this anglage is the hallmark of superlative handfinishing.

Technical details
Model: Prestige HMS Black Titanium By Romain Gauthier

Edition
Black ADLC Grade 5 titanium case with NAC-treated movement

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 5 o’clock
Dial open 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and seconds gear 
Multi-level dial
Hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding

Dial and hands
Off centre hour-minutes subdial engraved with the R.Gauthier logo at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 5 o’clock
Super-LumiNova filled hour and minute hands

Movement and finishing
In-house manufacture movement Calibre 2206 HMS
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22 
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine handfinishing including hand-polished screws and jewel countersinks, hand-polished bevels and bridges and Geneva waves

Case
Dimensions: 43mm x 12.1mm
Water resistance: 10m/1atm/30ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back

Strap and buckle
Matte black alligator leather with stitching to match dial accents, hand-stitched in Switzerland with titanium pin buckle

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