Saturday, September 30, 2017

Hysek IO 42 MM Annual Calendar

Hysek manufacture now introduces a re-designed version of the brand’s first annual calendar model, the IO Annual Calendar.

The new-look IO features a calendar than can mark off all the 30 or 31 days in a month flawlessly; only the month of February will require a manual correction. This particular invention was devised just over twenty years ago, in January 1994. It has now been implemented by several other firms in a fairly conventional, standard way – and so Hysek has revisited it, providing a whole new perspective.
The new IO Annual Calendar does not simply display the date, but rather boasts a Large Date display. Behind this subtle difference lies a complex feat of technical prowess, requiring not one date disc, but two. They have to be perfectly synchronised to jump forwards at midnight, and to do so, they require additional energy resources compared to a single date disc. The major challenge is to deliver this calendar movement without taking an excessive toll on the watch’s power reserve. The IO Annual Calendar achieves this, providing over 44 hours of guaranteed autonomy.

The month display benefits from a highly distinctive aesthetic approach. Generally, a central hand is used to indicate the 12 months, since these fall in naturally with the 12 hour markers on the dial, but to preserve the purity and readability of its creation, the manufacture has eschewed this common solution. Instead, Hysek has opted for a disc-based display – thus adding yet another mobile component calling for masterful energy management. Numbered from 1 to 12, the months are displayed in a dedicated window at 8 o’clock, with the current month indicated by an arrow to prevent any possible misunderstanding.
The entire composition is compellingly audacious, especially its clever play on shapes: a circular dial; arrowhead hands; a large, rectangular double window date display; and months displayed through a comma-shaped window. The sun-brushed dial also features a circular guilloché seconds counter. Very few firms are capable of producing a piece comprising so many different styles that maintains such an air of complete wholeness.

Last but not least, Hysek collectors will note the hours display, in which only the manufacture’s hallmark figures of 1, 5, 7, and 11 are used. At twelve o’clock, the Hysek “H” takes the place of the figure 12, and is also to be found on the crown.
The assembly is housed in a 42-millimetre case complete with the IO collection’s characteristic lugs, each bearing three ‘clawmarks’. Hysek is presently offering two steel variations of the piece, one with a grey dial and black alligator strap, the other with a blue dial and blue alligator strap, each with a fold-over buckle. The Swiss Made calibre, packed with 193 components, is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.

Technical details
Automatic Mechanical
Annual Calendar and Grande Date
Month Counter at 8 o’clock
Small Seconds at 5 o’clock
Côtes de Genève decoration
193 components
30 jewels
Autonomy: 44h
Frequency: 28’800VpH

Dimensions: Ø42mm x E12mm
Round shape
Water resistance 50m
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection
Screwed crown
Silvered or blue sun-brushed dial

Bracelet in leather or in steel
Hysek fold-over buckle

Speake-Marin Resilience “Love Life” Only Watch 2017 Unique Piece

Luxury Swiss watch brand Speake-Marin announces their participation for the second time in the seventh edition of Only Watch charity auction by donating a one-of-a-kind model: the Resilience 'Love Life'. This unique piece was realised in collaboration with the ambassador of the Swiss Brand, Mr. Pierce Brosnan.
Speake-Marin has decided to contribute with a Resilience timepiece from the J-Class collection, vividly reflecting the brand DNA. Easily recognisable with its clean, crisp lines and characteristic design elements, this 38 mm timepiece in red gold has the inscription “Love Life” on its dial, written by Pierce Brosnan himself. These two words, which summarize the fight of Only Watch, find also their place in the signature of all the e-mails of the actor, showing his love of life and his will to keep hope in every situation.
The actor has also signed the back of the watch, reinforcing the unique nature of this watch. The inscription “Only Watch 2017” has been added to dedicate this unique piece to the association which deserve all the support possible in its fight against the Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Technical details
Calibre Vaucher 3002, self-winding movement
Jewels: 28.
Frequency: 28,800vph / 4Hz
Power reserve: ~ 50 hours

Central hours, minutes and seconds

Piccadilly case in 18K red gold
Front and back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating with the engraved signature of Pierce Brosnan
The inscription “Only Watch 2017” engraved on the caseback.
Diameter: 38 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 meters)

White Dial with Roman numerals. “Love Life” written by hand by Pierce Brosnan
Hands: Speake-Marin style hands red gold coloured

Alligator. Pin buckle in 18K red gold

Longines Will Present Heritage Exhibition at WatchTime New York Show to Celebrate the Brand’s 185th Anniversary

Swiss watch brand Longines is joining WatchTime New York as an exhibitor for the first time, on October 13-14 at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall. Since its inception, WatchTime New York, “America’s Luxury Watch Show” has become regarded as the most authoritative, well-attended consumer watch show in the United States. WatchTime’s historic Gotham Hall venue, luxurious production, and intimate experience made the consumer show a logical fit for the elegant Swiss brand as it affirms its commitment to invest in the United States market. Longines will present a special heritage exhibition during the WatchTime New York show celebrating 185 years of Longines history, much of which was written in the United States.

The special 185th anniversary Longines Heritage Exhibition will showcase some of the reissued watches from the Swiss brand’s popular Heritage Collection, each representing a moment in time that paralleled significant chapters in the history of the United States. As the nation further cemented its role as a global powerhouse in the early 20th century, Longines supported these great technological advancements by developing watches for the US navy, for US railroads, and the emerging field of aviation.
Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary
At WatchTime New York, visitors can marvel at some of these history-making Longines timepieces, each ingeniously tailored to their tasks. The Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch 90th Anniversary stands out as one of brand’s most fascinating historical anecdotes, a watch first developed by Longines in the 1930s, in partnership with pioneering trans-Atlantic aviator Charles Lindbergh. The reissued 90th anniversary timepiece will be on display at WatchTime New York.

After taking in the fascinating watches of the Longines Heritage Exhibition, visitors may move on to the Longines booth on the show floor for hands-on experiences with the Heritage Collection models. This selection includes the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch, as well as the Longines Legend Diver with its new Milanese bracelet. Other reissued heritage timepieces only display will include the Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary, the Longines Heritage 1969, the Longines Railroad 40mm, and the Conquest Heritage 40mm.

By joining WatchTime New York, the brand signals its unwavering support and local presence for its US partners, including the Manhattan Longines boutique at the Westfield World Trade Center, whose staff will be on site to present these Longines watches to guests.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metropolitaine Selene Galaxy

Introduced last year, the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène series from Parmigiani Fleurier was updated again in mid 2017 by adding two more versions. Proudly displaying a mother-of-pearl dial adorned with a revolutionary moon-phase complication, this timepiece is presently available in four dial colour versions - Abyss blue, white, pastel pink and a subtle sky blue.

The manufacture now welcomes a new version of the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène featuring a midnight blue aventurine dial that reveals the moon in all its cosmic glory. Small inclusions of metal give aventurine its characteristic textured appearance.
The hands are skeletonised so as not to obscure the beauty of the aventurine. Their iconic delta shape - part of the Parmigiani Fleurier visual identity - is outlined and gilt with pink gold, underscoring the time with an elegant brilliance in perfect harmony with the pink gold of the indices. The bezel of the steel case is set with 72 brilliant cut diamonds, totalling 0.51 carats, which draw the sparkle of the aventurine along the case to emphasise the allure of this material. At 6 o'clock, the small second stands out on a black background, revealing the date on a matching date disc.
The russet moon of the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy radiates the magical glow of exceptional nights. It is magnified thanks to its surface made up of craters — known as lunar seas — obtained by applying successive layers of transfers, a complex process which involves great skill. Much more than a simple representation, this is a genuine embodiment of the moon on the wrist that disappears and emerges from wisps of cloud amidst its starry constellation. The colour of the moon is matched exactly to the tone of the pink gold on the hands and the dial indices.
The PF318 movement and its moon phase module were entirely created in the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture. The moon phase operating principle is based on a gear moved by the hour wheel, which rotates at half the speed of the gear. This means that the gear drives the moon disc every 24 hours via a flexible blade integrated in the centre of its wheel.
A corrector at 9 o'clock enables the wearer to independently index the moon in relation to the day and date in order to match its phase to the geographic reference location. This moon correction device features a safety system thanks to the blade, which is flexible to prevent irreparable damage to the gear in the event of incorrect operation.
The PF318 self-winding movement has a power reserve of 50 hours and excellent isochronism thanks to its two series-mounted barrels that regulate the rate. Visible through the watch's sapphire case back, this calibre is entirely circular-grained, decorated with Côtes de Genève and bevelled to the finest haute horlogerie standards customarily applied in the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture.

Technical details
Model: Tonda Metropolitaine Selene Galaxy
Reference: PFC283-0060601-X02521

Winding: Self-winding
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28,800 Vib/h
Dimensions: 11 ½''' – Ø 26.0 mm
Thickness: 4.7 mm
Components: 205
Jewels: 28
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Decoration: “Côtes de Genève” decoration, bevelled bridges

Hours, Minutes
Small seconds
Moon phase

Shape: Round, in 3 sections
Dimensions: Ø 33.2 mm
Thickness: 9.6 mm
Material: Steel, polished finish
Number of diamonds: 72
Carats: 0.5100
Water resistance: 30 m
Case-back: Sapphire
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 5.5 mm
Engraving on case-back: Individual number and "EDITION SPECIALE"

Material: Blue aventurine
Indices: Rose gold gilded applique
Finish: Aventurine
Hands: Skeleton Delta-shaped

Material: Fabric
Colour: Blue
Buckle: Ardillon

Parmigiani Fleurier New Tonda Metropolitaine Selene (PFC283-0063600-XC2421 & PFC283-0063500-XC2421)

Featuring an alluring colour scheme and eye-catching moon-phase complication, the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène from Parmigiani Fleurier’s Métro collection now welcomes two new editions in 2017.

Bearing the hallmarks of a conventional moon phase model, the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène boasts a mother of pearl dial featuring two bronze-coloured lunar discs that appear and disappear behind the wisps of a cloud. Despite this classic appearance, this timepiece features numerous distinctive touches executed thanks to the expertise of the Parmigiani Fleurier Watchmaking Centre, making it a true original.
Its russet-coloured moon radiates the magical glow only witnessed on exceptional nights. It is magnified thanks to its surface made up of craters — known as lunar seas — obtained by applying successive layers of transfers, a complex process which involves great skill.
The lotus flower adorning the centre of the dial emphasises the inherent femininity of the complication. This flower, which blooms at night, just as the moon appears, also symbolises the female gait. It is created using mother-of-pearl lace designs measuring barely 0.2 mm thick, applied in two layers. The first underlying sheet is varnished then satin-finished, providing a contrast with the upper polished layer. The alternating satin-finished and polished surfaces produce a captivating reflection, which is further enhanced by the inherent depth effects of the two mother-of-pearl layers.
This edition brings two new dial colours – a pastel pink and a subtle sky blue –to the existing Tonda Métropolitaine versions in Abyss blue and white. The colours of these two special editions are obtained by applying a varnish to the back of the underlying mother-of-pearl sheet, which suffuses through to the surface, enhancing the reflections generated by the material. The bezel, which is set with 72 brilliant cut diamonds, and a "pearly white" leather strap, enhance the rich, lustrous texture to envelop the wrist. The indices, in 18 carat solid gold, stand out elegantly from the dial.
The PF318 movement and its moon phase module were entirely manufactured in the Parmigiani Fleurier workshops. The moon phase operating principle is based on a gear moved by the hour wheel, which rotates at half the speed of the gear. This means that the gear drives the moon disc every 24 hours via a flexible blade integrated in the centre of its wheel.

A corrector at 9 o'clock enables the wearer to independently index the moon in relation to the day and date in order to match its phase to the geographic reference location. This moon correction device features a safety system thanks to the blade, which is flexible to prevent irreparable damage to the gear in the event of incorrect operation.
The PF318 self-winding movement has a power reserve of 50 hours and excellent isochronism thanks to its two series-mounted barrels that regulate the power reserve. Visible through the watch's transparent case back, this calibre is entirely circular-grained, decorated with Côtes de Genève and bevelled to the finest haute horlogerie standards customarily applied in the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture.

Technical details
Model: Tonda Metropolitaine Selene
References: PFC283-0063600-XC2421; PFC283-0063500-XC2421

Winding: Self-winding
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28,800 Vib/h
Dimensions: 11 ½''' – Ø 26.0 mm
Thickness: 4.7 mm
Components: 205
Jewels: 28
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Decoration: “Côtes de Genève” decoration, bevelled bridges

Hours, Minutes
Small seconds
Moon phase

Shape: Round, in 3 sections
Dimensions: Ø 33.2 mm
Thickness: 9.6 mm
Material: Steel, polished finish
Number of diamonds: 72
Carats: 0.5100
Water resistance: 30 m
Case-back: Sapphire
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 5.5 mm
Engraving on case-back: Individual number and "EDITION SPECIALE"

Colour: Pink or blue mother-of-pearl
Indices: 18 ct rose gold appliques
Finish: Snailed exterior, mother-of-pearl lace centre, opaline counters
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating

Material: Calfskin
Colour: White mother-of-pearl
Buckle type: Ardillon

Parmigiani Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène

With its two bronze-coloured lunar pastilles, which appear and disappear behind the wisps of a cloud, the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène corresponds to the typical moon phase model. Although seemingly classic, on closer observation it reveals a series of refined features, giving this piece touches of distinction which make it unique.

In this timepiece, the moon is not golden, but actually russet, possessing that glow specific to exceptional nights. Or the fact that its surface is made up of craters – known as lunar seas – obtained by successively layering transfers and involving great artisanal complexity.  Further, the floral pattern decorating the dial increases the intrinsic femininity of this complication.
The lotus flower, depicted at the heart of the piece, is a plant that blooms at night when the moon rises.  Adorning the centre of the dial, this lotus flower is formed of mother-of-pearl lace designs measuring barely 0.2 mm thick, placed in two layers, one on top of the other. The first, underlying sheet is varnished then satin-finished, therefore contrasting with the upper layer, which presents a polished finish. The alternating satin-finished and polished surfaces produce a particularly captivating reflection, which is further enhanced by the inherent depth effects of the two mother of-pearl layers.
In 2016, two versions of the Métropolitaine Sélène dial were launched. The first is completely made up of white mother-of pearl, which forms the base of the dial as well as the lotus. The second features the Parmigiani Fleurier signature abyss blue dial, which is joined by a lotus of the same colour, matching the exact same shade.

The Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène is impressive in terms of its technical features and accuracy, but also possesses a unique artisanal beauty, resulting from the continuous decorative care responsible for its preciousness. These operations are carried out by hand, never substituted, giving it a perceptible and unique value.
The moon phase module was entirely produced in the Parmigiani Fleurier workshops. Its operating principle is based on a gear connected to the hour wheel, which has twice as many teeth and therefore turns twice as slowly. This gear performs one rotation every 24 hours and drives the moon disc forward every day using a flexible blade integrated into its wheel.

A push-piece at 9 o‘clock enables the wearer to independently index the moon in relation to the day and time in order to match its phases to the geographic location of reference. This moon correction device features a safety system thanks to the flexible blade, which prevents the gear from being destroyed in the event of incorrect operation. The movement is entirely circular-grained and decorated according to the highest standards of fine watchmaking.

Technical details
Winding: Automatic
Power-reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28‘800 A/h
Dimensions: 11 ½‘‘‘ – Ø 26.0 mm
Thickness: 4.7 mm
Components: 205
Jewels: 28
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Decoration: “Côtes de Genève”, bevelled bridges

Hours, Minutes
Small second at 6 o‘clock
Date under openworked dial
Moon phase

Shape: 3-part round case
Dimensions: Ø 33.20 mm
Thickness: 9.6 mm
Material: Steel
Finishing: Polished
Water-resistance: 30 m
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 5.5 mm
Back: Sapphire
Back engraving: Individual number
Also available in diamond set version (Diamonds: 72, Carats: 0.5100)

Colour: Blue abyss or White Mother-of-Pearl
Index: Rose gold plated appliques
Finishing: Snailed counter, Mother-of-Pearl lace centre
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating
Strap: Pearly white calf
Bracelet: Polished steel
Buckle Type: Ardillon or Folding

Friday, September 29, 2017

Arnold & Son Time Pyramid for Only Watch 2017

Luxury Swiss watchmaker Arnold & Son extends its support to the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies by presenting a unique reference of its emblematic Time Pyramid for Only Watch 2017 charity event. This unique timepiece will be auctioned for charity benefitting the funding of research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The auction will be conducted by Christie’s during the biennial Only Watch charity auction in Geneva, taking place on the 11th of November 2017.
Taking inspiration from the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over two hundred years ago, and antique British skeleton clocks, the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid offers a highly cohesive and seductive blend of watchmaking feats that includes regulator, skeleton, vertical linear movement, pyramid-placement of components and multidimensional depth.

For the unique Time Pyramid Only Watch 2017, the entire timepiece takes on a bold, contemporary execution. The stainless steel case is done with a black DLC treatment, while the skeletonized and symmetrical calibre A&S1615 receives a black ADLC coating, offering a striking contrast against traditional haute horlogerie hand-applied finishing and decoration.
Further highlighting the unique execution of the Time Pyramid Only Watch 2017 are the red accents applied to several components of the timepiece, adding a vibrant touch to the blacked-out timepiece. The hands of the two power reserve indicators (one per barrel) are painted red, as are the hour and minute hands and Roman numerals on the sapphire dial. The anthracite alligator strap adds the final touch with its red stitching.

Technical details
Model: Time Pyramid for Only Watch 2017
Limited edition: Unique Piece
Reference: 1TPBS.S03A.C124S

Calibre: A&S1615
Manufacture Arnold & Son skeletonized mechanical movement, hand- wound, 27 jewels, diameter 37 mm, thickness 4.40 mm, power reserve over 90 h, double barrel, 21,600 vibrations/h
Movement decoration: Skeletonized nickel-silver movement, black A-DLC treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, Côtes de Genève, circular satin-finished wheels, polished screws

Hours, minutes, seconds, double power reserve indication

Sapphire with red numerals, circular satin-finished dial frame with chamfered and polished edge

Stainless steel with black DLC coating, diameter 44.6mm
Cambered sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Translucent-grey coated sapphire case back,
Water-resistant to 30 m

Turned-edge anthracite alligator leather with red hand-stitching

Thursday, September 28, 2017


Two years after launching its sensational horology creation FB 1, the Swiss luxury watch brand Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD presents this year a new and highly exclusive timepiece FB 1.3, that follows the same footsteps of the FB 1.1 chronometer that won the “Aiguille d’or” Grand Prix award at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and the FB 1.2.
This new model is distinguished by its unique shapes and complex platinum case that frames a partially open-worked nickel silver dial featuring an understated and distinctive play on colours. Its movement is endowed with complications inspired by the 18th century Ferdinand Berthoud chronometers that served as reliable scientific instruments. Nonetheless, even terms such as “suspended tourbillon”, “constant force” or “fusee-and-chain transmission” cannot begin to express the true sophistication of this exceptional calibre.
The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 was the result of an innovative horological approach. Its design, its movement, its finishing and indeed everything to do with this tourbillon and constant force chronometer are highly specific and correspond to an uncompromising pursuit of excellence. Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD stemmed from a very special mind-set that breathed life into this project, powered by personal passion. That of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, who since 2006 has been patiently putting together a major collection of objects relating to time measurement in the L.U.CEUM: the in-house museum based in Fleurier and showcasing a number of remarkable works by Ferdinand Berthoud.
Fired by respect for Ferdinand Berthoud, a native of the Val-de-Travers who went on to become a horologist, inventor and talented author, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele set up a team dedicated to offering connoisseurs the kind of chronometers that Ferdinand Berthoud might have created if he were still alive today. To support this approach, a specific development process was put in place by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his team. FERDINAND BERTHOUD chronometers comprise a wealth of aesthetic and technical details that call for authentic expertise and considerable know-how. The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD 1.3 is thus naturally produced in a 50-piece limited numbered series.
The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 picks up all the aesthetic and technical features of the previous versions that were respectively crafted in 18-carat white gold (FB 1.1) and 18-carat rose gold (FB 1.2). The 44 mm-diameter case of this watch sits naturally and comfortably on the wrist. Composed of a 950 platinum cylinder housing the movement, it comprises two octagonal-shaped side pieces in polished platinum that contribute to its distinctive shape. The latter is inspired by an overhead view of a marine chronometer fitted inside its case: its round shape is cut through by the arms of the gimbal suspension that holds it in place when the ship is at sea. The grey ceramic lugs are secured to the case middle by two stylised titanium bolts marking the starting points of the hand-stitched double-sided alligator leather strap. The same ceramic is also present on the medallion adorning the knurled platinum crown. Finally, four ‘portholes’ cut out from the sides of the case provide a chance to admire the fusee-and-chain mechanism in action, as well as to allow light to flood through the movement. 
Another opening in the satin-brushed nickel silver dial reveals the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage and the seconds wheel to which the central seconds hand is fitted, an unusual feature on a tourbillon. This slim black hand sweeps around a translucent sapphire railtrack circle around the rim of the dial. The hours and minutes are offset at 12 o’clock on a black lacquered subdial bearing white Arabic numerals and white gold cut-out hands. The same black shade also graces the chamfered edges of the dial openings. The nature and origin of the Chronomètre FB 1.3 are also indicated on this large dial that is engraved with the inscription “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”. Far more than merely representing a signature or an appellation of origin, it proudly proclaims the model’s identity.

The way the FB-T.FC calibre is built is a truly unique phenomenon on the contemporary watchmaking scene. This hand-wound movement features 15 bridges and three half-bridges in nickel silver, framed by polished titanium pillars surrounding the mechanical organs. This construction is typical of 18th century marine chronometers, and enables the portholes of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 to reveal the interior of the watch. Equally high aesthetic standards apply to the design of all components, and especially to the symmetrical visual balance characterising the various sets of components.
This movement is one of the rare examples to feature a fusee-and-chain transmission, which is the oldest historical solution developed to ensure constant force for the escapement. This system acts like an automatic gear box, with the torque delivered by the barrel varying according to the level of winding. When the movement is fully wound (53 hours of power reserve), the chain is entirely coiled around the small end of the fusee and the barrel spring is at maximum power. This force dwindles in the course of time, as the chain coils around the drum, moving from the small to the large end of the spindle-shaped fusee. The variation in the diameter of the fusee compensates for the reduction of the mainspring torque. The escapement thus receives constant energy, thereby equalling out the amplitude of the balance wheel and thereby enhancing the movement’s timekeeping precision.
The distinctive nature of the FB-T.FC lies in the fact that its barrel and fuse are reversed, upside down, and above all suspended – meaning they are held on one side only. This helps save a few precious millimetres and contributes to the overall slimness of the calibre. At just 7.96 mm thick, the movement powering the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3. is the thinnest in its category and a patent has been duly filed for this construction.

When the mainspring is associated with a fusee, the barrel drum turns in one direction while the spring is unwinding, and in the other during winding, thus serving to coil the chain.

During the winding of this type of mechanism, the movement generally stops running. To counteract this effect, the FB-T.FC is equipped with a distinctively designed differential gear, enabling the balance-wheel to continue oscillating even during winding and thus preserving the movement’s precision timekeeping properties. Another patent has also been filed for this device.

The winding mechanism fitted with a pinion featuring cone-shaped toothing, together with a large-diameter knurled crown, enables smooth winding of the movement – a gentle motion that naturally enhances the quality of the rapport established between the watch and its owner, which plays an essential role in the case of a hand-wound watch.

As typically found on fusee-and-chain mechanisms, the barrel of Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with a “Maltese Cross” stopwork device. The latter serves to limit the number of winding turns of the mainspring to around six, and to use only the most stable portion of this spring – thereby breaking free of its far ends. This device also servers as a buffer when the barrel is fully wound. At that point, the mainspring torque exerts a 3 kg force, which is considerable for components measuring just a few millimetres.

To perfect the security of the movement, the engineers at Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD have endowed the crown with a dynamometric function serving to avoid any damage to the movement that might be caused by excessive winding.
The highly sophisticated power-reserve indication device warranted a patent in its own right. A truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. This suspended cone is topped by a feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel. Its position on the cone reflects the state of wind. This feeler spindle is in turn connected to the hand on the power-reserve display, which features graduations engraved on the baseplate and visible through a dial opening. This daring mechanism provides a highly accurate indication of the movement’s power reserve.

Teamed with the seconds wheel and pinion, the tourbillon of Calibre FB-T.FC comprises 67 components assembled within a titanium carriage measuring 16.55 mm in diameter, and fixed to an arrow-shaped steel arch whose tip points towards the space between the barrel and the fusee. A large variable-inertia balance-wheel is regulated and balanced by four gilded nickel silver inertia-blocks. It is coupled with a self-compensating regulating balance-spring in a stainless alloy, featuring a Phillips outer terminal curve (overcoil) manually shaped by the expert hands of the women serving as balance-spring fitters at Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD. To poise the escapement’s unbalance, two 18-carat gold inertia-blocks ensure the uniformity of the weights of this large-size tourbillon. This tourbillon contributes to earning Calibre FB-T.FC its chronometer title awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). One particular characteristic makes this tourbillon extremely distinctive: although it performs one rotation per minute, it does not display the seconds. The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 is one of the rare tourbillon models to have a central sweep-seconds hand. The latter is extremely long, slim and made of bronze, displaying the seconds with extreme accuracy and in a remarkably stable manner.

Within the traditional approach to watchmaking, construction and mechanical structure are inseparable from the choice of materials and the quality of the finishing. In this respect, the movement of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 is in a league of its own. The bridges of Calibre FB-T.FC are made of non-treated German silver: a copper, zinc and nickel alloy that is particularly brilliant when polished, yet also extremely fragile. Any imperfection is irreparable and the part must be discarded. Nickel silver is also distinguished by its warm grey colour easily recognised by connoisseurs.

The stainless steel arrow-shaped tourbillon bridge is decorated with the utmost care: the upper side is specular polished, the flanks are straight-grained, the angles are polished and the underside is circular-grained and smooth polished. All levels of the tourbillon carriage, with its titanium components, are entirely chamfered. Some surfaces are polished, others circular satin-brushed, sandblasted or smooth polished. The lever bridge is entirely chamfered, while its visible side features a specular-polished finish and its invisible side is straight-grained. Further up in the gear train, the power-reserve cone is mirror-polished across its inner surface, while the upper and undersides are circular satin-brushed. Two small steel plates are screwed to the cover of the barrel drum: one bears the watch’s limited-edition number, while the other is left blank to be engraved with the initials of its future owner. The 790-part chain measuring 285 mm long is also entirely hand-finished. The sides and studs are satin-brushed and the flat surfaces are polished.
Whatever their position and their function, these component finishing operations are entirely done by hand using traditional tools, in the workshops of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD. The quality control of this finishing is performed at a far higher degree of magnification than usual, under a 6x loupe. Under such intense scrutiny, no detail, however tiny, goes unnoticed. No error, imperfection or insufficiency is tolerated. Such is the horological excellence cultivated by Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD as part of its unfailing commitment to precision for explorers.

Technical details
REF. FB 1.3, Platinum and ceramicb50-piece limited and numbered edition

Bimetallic in platinum (PT 950) with anthracite grey ceramic lug elements
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness:  13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 01/50 to 50/50
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling device) in platinum (PT 950) with anthracite grey ceramic medallion
Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Mounting bolts in titanium
Screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched and glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Vertical satin-finish dial made of solid nickel silver material
Cut-out centre and power reserve chamfered by hand and black rhodium-plated
Off-set hours and minutes in matte black-lacquered subdial, white Arabic numerals
Seconds scale in matte translucent sapphire surrounding the dial
Power-reserve scale engraved on the main plate “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
Degree of autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the French words “HAUT” (high) and “BAS” (low)

18-carat white gold dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands, open-worked and facetted
18-carat gold black nickel-plated dagger-shaped power-reserve hand with curved triangular tip
Bronze black nickel-plated central sweep-seconds hand

Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve

Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC
Diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 7.96 mm
Lines: 15 ¾
Jewels: 46
Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

• Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain transmission (constant-force device)
Suspended fusee with differential based winding device (PATENT PENDING)
Suspended barrel with Maltese cross stop work device (PATENT PENDING)
Suspended power reserve device with mobile cone (PATENT PENDING)
Suspended tourbillon with direct-drive seconds (PATENT PENDING)
• Variable-inertia balance-wheel integrating 2 balance weights sets (gold-plated nickel-silver material)
• Balance spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel material)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Nickel-silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
•Hand-finished to the highest standards

Parts: 1120 (incl. the chain)
Chain: 790 elements
Chain length: 285 mm
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6

Rotation: 1 /minute
Parts: 67
Carriage:  Ø 16.55 mm (titanium material)
Tourbillon carriage fixed by: Three polished titanium pillars.
Tourbillon carriage poised by: Two 18-carat gold studs
Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

One-piece hand-sewn rolled-edge black alligator leather strap (115 x 75 mm, buckle 20 mm) (Different sizes available on request)
Double-blade adjustable-length safety folding clasp in platinum (PT 950) (Pin buckle available on request)

WARLD World Watch

Young micro watch brand WARLD has just launched its second Kickstarter campaign for its new watch collection: The World Watch.
The World Watch is dedicated for those who love to travel and discover new zones. Available in four versions – AORAKI, SAHARA, CAPRI & ARCTIC – this contemporary wrist watch is a perfect accessory for both men and women thanks to its unisex appeal and classic design.
Crafted from stainless steel and featuring brushed finishing, the watch case is available in two different sizes: 41mm & 38 mm. The major design highlight of the watch is its dual layered dial design featuring a grained world map at the centre dial.
One  surprise that differentiates this timepiece from other wristwatches is a centrally positioned compass hand in place of usual central seconds hand.
Along with the luminous hour and minute hands, this component offers an additional function as well as aesthetics beauty. The 12, 3, 6, and 9 hour markers are replaced with the letters representing the cardinal directions north (N), east (E), south (S) and west (W) respectively.
Powering this timepiece is an ultra thin quartz movement manufactured by Miyota. Protecting the watch face is hardened and domed mineral crystal glass with UV coating and the rear side of the watch is secured with stainless steel caseback. Water resistance of the watch is 50 meters.
Each timepiece is supplied with an interchangeable, Italian leather straps featuring stainless steel clasp.
The watch can be pre-ordered by visiting the WARLD World Watch Kickstarter Campaign. Price starts from $89. Estimated delivery from Jan 2018.

Kickstarter link : WARLD World Watch

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Oris Big Crown D.26 286 HB-RAG - Limited Edition Watch Inspired By the Historic Dewoitine D.26 Aircraft

Swiss watch brand Oris unveils a limited edition watch into its Big Crown family celebrating the unique role played in aviation history by the Dewoitine D.26 aircraft. The Big Crown D.26 286 HB-RAG Oris Limited Edition remembers the training aircraft designed by the French engineer Emile Dewoitine and will be limited to 1,931 pieces.
Behind the watch is a new partnership between Oris and ‘Hangar 31’, a group of volunteer enthusiasts who preserve and fly the historic Dewoitine D.26 aircraft from their base in the Swiss town of Grenchen, in the foothills of the Jura Mountains. Hangar 31’s motto is ‘Conservare et volare’, conserve and fly.
The story of the Dewoitine D.26 286 HB-RAG begins when it was put into service on August 20, 1931, one of 11 aircraft commissioned by the Swiss government and built under licence by the Eidgenössische Konstruktionswerkstaette K+W (Federal construction workshop) in Thun, Switzerland. It remained in the Swiss Air Force until 1948 and was used to instruct trainee pilots. After it was decommissioned, it was used to tow glider aircraft into the air in Lausanne, Sion and Zurich. A long period of neglect followed, before it was restored and then exhibited in a museum in Dübendorf, near Zurich.

In 2015, the Dewoitine D.26 286 HB-RAG was passed into the care of Hangar 31, who maintain it and regularly fly it, continuing its historic story. Today, it’s one of only two original D.26s still flying.

Oris has a rich aviation history and has worked with a number of non-profit organisations that conserve heritage aircraft. The company’s links with flying go back to the dawn of flight in the early 1910s when it produced its first aviation-inspired watch. Oris’s first pilot’s wristwatch followed soon after and is celebrated a century later with this year’s 1917 Limited Edition. The Big Crown family was introduced in 1938 as war loomed, and proved an invaluable tool to pilots who needed a clearly legible timepiece with an oversized crown that made the watch easy to adjust while gloved during flight.
The Big Crown D.26 286 HB-RAG Oris Limited Edition unites all of these influences. The watch is based on the original Big Crown design and inherits its fluted bezel and central pointer date hand, now Oris’s signature complication. Its stainless steel case is 40mm in diameter; its brown leather strap, green dial and special leather pouch are inspired by finishes and materials in the D.26’s cockpit; and it’s powered by an automatic mechanical movement.
Technical details
Model: Big Crown D.26 286 HB-RAG Oris Limited Edition
Ref. No. 01 754 7741 4087 LS, Ø 40 mm
Limited to 1,931 pieces

Automatic movement Oris Cal. 754, based on Sellita SW 200-1, with pointer date function

Multi-piece stainless steel case and screw-in stainless steel crown
Water resistant to 5 bar
Sapphire crystal domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating inside
Screwed stainless steel case back with embossed Dewoitine D.26 286 HBRAG plane and engraved limited edition number

Green dial with printed Super-LumiNova® Arabic numerals, polished nickel hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. Polished nickel central seconds hand and central pointer date hand with red tip

Brown leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Presented in a special leather pouch with additional brown leather strap

Swiss retail price CHF 1,850

TAG Heuer Brand Ambassador Tom Brady Releases Heuer 01 Special Edition Watch

TAG Heuer and Tom Brady, brand ambassador since 2015, quarterback of the New England Patriots and five-time Super Bowl champion, has unveiled a special edition of the brand’s iconic Heuer 01 chronograph.
Tom Brady worked closely with TAG Heuer to design the special edition Heuer 01 in shades of blue, red and silver to pay homage to the jersey colors of the New England Patriots. The distinctive color scheme is particularly evident in the blue dial and blue leather straps, both accented with red detailing. Brady selected the twelve o’clock hour marker for the location of his jersey number to highlight his personal trademark and to amplify the details on the dial. Each timepiece has ‘Tom Brady Special Edition’ on the case back and notes the limited edition number, along with the TAG Heuer logo and Tom Brady’s signature. Behind the lettering and autograph, the innovative Heuer 01 movement is still semi-visible.
Only 466 pieces were produced in honor of the New England Patriot’s historic win over the Atlanta Falcons in Super Bowl LI, when Tom Brady led the team to victory in overtime. Brady finished 43 of 62 passes for 466 yards overall, shattering several Super Bowl records. The special edition piece will retail on for $5,600.

TAG Heuer released the special edition timepiece for a limited pre-sale on September 12, 2017 and offered an once-in-a-lifetime experience to the first five customers. Each winner and a guest were treated to a trip to Boston to watch the New England Patriots vs. Houston Texans game at Gillette Stadium on September 24, 2017 and the chance to meet Tom Brady.

Technical details
Reference: CAR201R.FT6120

TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 01, Swiss made
Automatic calibre, rapid date correction
Diameter: 29.3 mm (13''') — 39 rubies
Balance frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
Power reserve of the movement: 50 hours; with chronograph operating: 40 hours.

43 mm diameter
Steel brushed case
Ceramic black alternate finishing tachymeter fixed bezel;
Domed, beveled sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Polished black rubber, steel standard crown at 3 o'clock
Alternate finishing steel round push button at 2 o'clock
Alternate finishing steel round push button at 4 o'clock
Alternate finishing steel screw-down sapphire case back with "TOM BRADY SPECIAL EDITION BRADY 12" & signature special stamping, limited numbered XXX/466
Steel alternate finishing lugs
Water resistance: 100 meters

Blue opalin dial
Blue flange with 60 second / minute scale
3 counters:
12 o’clock: rhodium plated, blue opalin minute chronograph counter with "12" special stamping; rhodium plated, red polished hand
6 o’clock: rhodium plated, blue opalin hour chronograph counter; rhodium plated, red polished hand
9 o'clock : blue opalin permanent second indicator ; rhodium plated polished hand
Rhodium plated alternate finishing applied indexes with white superluminova®
Rhodium plated alternate finishing hour and minute hands with white superluminova®
Rhodium plated, red polished central hand • rhodium plated polished TAG HEUER applied logo
3 o'clock applied date

Blue calf skin rubber / leather strap
Alternate finishing steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer shield

TAG Heuer Announces Raha Moharrak, Its First Arab Friend of the Brand in the Middle East

On 20th September 2017 in Dubai, Swiss watch brand TAG Heuer hosted an exclusive event to reveal Raha Moharrak – the first Saudi lady and the youngest Arab to conquer Mount Everest and the Seven Summits – as its first Arab female friend of the brand.

This new collaboration was celebrated at the Grosvenor House, Dubai with the presence of Raha herself, Mr Philippe Roten, TAG Heuer Commercial Director, Nicolas Pic, TAG Heuer Brand Director for the Middle East.
No stranger to fame, Raha’s journey to eventually claim the title of being the youngest Arab and first ever Saudi woman to conquer Mount Everest began as a child. Forever dreaming of seeing the world and undertaking challenging adventures, her unconventional streak was apparent to all. Blessed with supportive parents who eventually encouraged her to dream big, Raha graduated with a Bachelor’s in Visual Communications from the American University of Sharjah and went on to start her career at a leading advertising agency.
Raha’s life changed the day she summited Kilimanjaro as it was this accomplishment that opened her eyes to the endless possibilities the world had to offer and the lofty heights that still remained to be scaled. The seed for the dream to conquer Everest was born then and on May 18, 2013, Raha made history by being the first Saudi woman to conquer Everest and the seven highest mountains in each continent. Her accomplishment has been remarkable in several ways and Raha is living testimony to the fact that if children are raised to be confident and curious, anything can be accomplished.
A movie feature of Raha that was filmed in Zermatt, Switzerland was also screened on the night, perfectly tying in Raha’s daring spirit with TAG Heuer’s Swiss roots and craftsmanship.

Taking the opportunity of this event, watch aficionados were also treated to a showcasing of TAG Heuer’s impressive new 2017 collection. Guests were allowed to take a look at the full redesign or its iconic Link men with an automatic Calibre 5 movement, which now sports a masterful makeover in celebration of its 30th birthday. The revamped design features a noticeably larger diameter (41mm) and an understated contemporary design, halfway between a round and cushion shape, all while retaining its signature iconic bracelet with its S-shaped links. The new Link Lady was also on display. Featuring a bracelet, which is fully integrated into the case, the bracelet still has its curved profile with even more sophisticated finishes. For the first time, this collection will be available in bright colours. A choice of a navy blue sunray finish or pink mother of pearl adds a vibrant touch to the dial.

The Autavia, the legendary driver’s chronograph from the Sixties and a beloved of collectors, is making a comeback in 2017. Modern yet faithful to its roots, the new generation Autavia channels the spirit of the golden age of motor racing. The updated edition features a larger 42 mm diameter, camel strap leather, date aperture at 6 o’clock, an Heuer-02 proprietary self-winding chronograph and has an automatic chronograph with date and power reserve of 80-hours.

In a choice of black, navy blue and cognac brown, and a new diameter of 43 mm, the famous and updated Heuer-01 Skeleton Manufacture Chronograph is available in six new references with a matching ceramic bezel. Women don’t have to feel left out at as the women’s Carrera sports a fresh new look too. With models in all black, denim blue, or a black dial with full-grain calfskin leather, and featuring a new modular construction, the latest Carreras are for an active new generation of ladies.

TAG Heuer has also paid tribute to the talent and panache of Ayrton Senna, considered one of the greatest drivers the world has ever seen, by crafting an exclusive collection of three limited-edition watches. With an imposing 45 mm case, the Carrera Heuer-01 chronograph in black brushed steel with touches of red houses the skeleton dial and sapphire case back resulting in a manufacture movement to be admired. The other pieces in the series are two Formula 1 models, one of which is the chronograph version, TAG Heuer’s archetypal “motor racing” model. Both watches are 43 mm in diameter and black, highlighted with red tones in the ultimate nod to the spirit of high speed racing.

Hublot Inaugurates Its First Canadian Boutique and Unveils the Classic Fusion Chronograph Canada Special Edition Timepiece

On 26 September 2017, Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot celebrated the grand opening of its first Canadian boutique in Vancouver, and 15th in North America. The celebration hosted a ribbon cutting ceremony, cocktail reception, and limited-edition watch reveal with world renowned pianist and brand ambassador, Lang Lang.

International phenomenon and superstar, Lang Lang, has performed with leading orchestras in the United States, Europe, and his native China, with legendary collaborations from the Metallica’s “Four Horsemen” to Jazz man Herbie Hancock and the Tenor Plácido Domingo. Lang Lang represents excellence in his industry, and continues to be an influential envoy for the arts and trailblazer in the world of classical music.
The afternoon kicked off with press conference for international and local media with Jean-François Sberro, Managing Director of North America, and brand ambassador Lang Lang in the store’s private second level, followed by an official ribbon cutting ceremony presented by the two gentlemen and boutique operator, Oleg Minchenko, which flowed into a cocktail reception, where guests mingled with the virtuoso and could discover the new unveiled Classic Fusion Chronograph Canada timepiece.
Nestled on Alberni street in Vancouver’s “luxury zone”, and cited as one of the best retail streets in North America, the new Hublot Vancouver boutique boasts two floors – the only retail space in the area that features an upstairs lounge, with floor-to-ceiling windows that fully opens for guests to enjoy the fresh air. The boutique will exclusively house the limited-edition Classic Fusion Chronograph Canada.
The Classic Fusion Chronograph Canada is a special edition timepiece exclusive to the Canadian market and launched specially for the grand opening of the Vancouver boutique. The watch features red detailing on the bezel, dial, and alligator straps in honor of Canada’s national colors and flag, while the case back features the iconic, Canadian Maple Leaf engraved on polished ceramic, and is presented in a custom maple wood box. The piece will be sold in a limited run of 30 and sold exclusively in the Hublot Vancouver Boutique.

Technical details
Model: Classic Fusion Chronograph Canada Special Edition
Reference: 521.CM.1423.LR.BHV17

Satin-finished and polished black ceramic
Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 13.05 mm
Bezel: Satin-finished and polished black ceramic
Bezel Lug: Red composite resin
Screws « H »: Polished titanium
Glass: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Crown: Polished black ceramic with HUBLOT logo engraved
Pushers: Polished black ceramic
Case back: Polished black ceramic engraved "SPECIAL EDITION" + N°XX/30
Case back Glass: Sapphire with interior anti-reflective treatment + "BHV17" logo
Water Resistant: 5 ATM (50m)

Black sunray satin-finished with “BHV17” logo at 3 o’clock counter
Polished rhodium plated appliques
Hands: Polished rhodium plated hands

Caliber Hublot HUB1143
Type: Self-winding Chronograph movement
Dimensions: Dia. 30 mm (131/4’’’); Thickness 6.9 mm
Date: Window at 6.00
No of Components: 280
Jewels: 59
Frequency: 4 Hz (28'800 A/h)
Power reserve: 42 Hours

Red rubber and black alligator with white stitching
Buckle: Black PVD stainless steel deployant buckle clasp

Hublot Reopens Its Bratislava Boutique and Reveals Romana Škamlovà as Friend of the Brand

On 21 September 2017 in Bratislava, within the majestic premises of the Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel emblazoned in a pink hue for the occasion, Hublot unveiled the name of its new Friend of the Brand, the successful Slovakian businesswoman Romana Škamlová while celebrating the reopening of its Bratislava boutique.
Amongst a magnificent floral decor, accompanied by Hublot Brand Director for Eastern Europe, France, Belux, United Kingdom and Scandinavia Benoit Lecigne, Romana Škamlová cut the ribbon to mark the grand reopening of the newly renovated Bratislava Boutique situated in the Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel, just a block away from the famous Danube River and close to the main attractions of Bratislava Old Town.
The exclusive 40sqm boutique was designed by Hublot around the "Art of Fusion" concept, transforming tradition into the future. The combination of unique materials and styles adds luxury and elegance to the store while delicate shades of grey and black are complemented by vibrant coloured pop art paintings, featuring the most famous Hublot designs.

Announcing Romana Škamlová as its new Friend of the Brand, the Swiss luxury watchmaker demonstrated its ongoing support to women’s talent. Aged 28, former contender of the Miss Slovakia contest, Romana Škamlová is not only a successful businesswoman both in the fashion and catering industries in Eastern Europe but also a totally fulfilled woman and mother.
VIPs and special guests such as Karolina Chomistekova and Barbora Franekova enjoyed a pre-evening cocktail while famous Slovakian Fashion TV presenter Jasmina Alagič invited guests to select a watch in the newly refurbished Hublot Boutique, to enjoy a photo-booth session and to post their favourite picture on Instagram, using the #hublotloveswomen hashtag.
Romana Škamlová herself gave it a try wearing the new Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase King Gold Pink, a tonneau watch infusing the brilliant intensity of the moon with a trendy coloured dial, a matching stone-set bezel and an open work architecture with a semi-transparent sand-blasted disc revealing two alternating moons, also in matching shades.
Existing in both King Gold and titanium cases, the Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase features a 50-hour power reserve and a stunning complication at 6 o’clock.

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